Fertile trees. Shade-loving fruit shrubs for the garden. Ground water level

In the hands of caring gardeners, berry bushes can become a real decoration of the site. Fruits grown with love will delight you with a delicious harvest throughout the season.

Arranging a garden plot is not complete without fruit and berry bushes and trees. In a garden with a beautiful landscape design there should be a place for a berry bush: raspberries, gooseberries, currants, sea buckthorn, honeysuckle, blackberries, blueberries, serviceberry. We offer you an overview of the most popular shrubs.

Raspberries

Surely you have heard about wonderful ones. It is difficult to imagine that raspberry bushes used to grow exclusively in forests. And only several centuries later they began to breed it in garden plots. Raspberries have many advantages; they are simply necessary in the garden. Shrubs, depending on the variety, have red berries; yellow and purple-black ones are less common.

Varieties of raspberries

• Traditional varieties of early, medium and late ripening. Adapt to any conditions. Disadvantage: low yield.
• Large-fruited ones are considered high-yielding. Allows you to grow berries weighing up to 12 grams each.
• The most popular are remontant ones. They begin to bear fruit in the first year.

Features of care

Berry bushes require regular watering, loosening, etc. Planting is done in spring or autumn. For the winter, the soil around the bush is insulated. In the spring it is necessary to prune and tie up. All of the above measures will be useless if you do not protect the bush from diseases.

Wear gloves when harvesting, as many varieties of bushes have thorns on their branches.

Gooseberry

Gooseberries are often called northern grapes or Russian cherry plums. An unpretentious crop produces good yields. The bushes feel great in illuminated areas. They are afraid of shade and waterlogging. You can find gooseberries in almost all regions. The bushes begin to bear fruit from the third year. The berries can be green, yellow or red-brown. There are at least 1500 varieties

Unlike currants, gooseberries are not afraid of drought.

Varieties of gooseberries

• European varieties are praised for their high taste. Disadvantage: instability to disease and frost.
• American ones are not afraid of drought and produce a good harvest. The size of the berries is inferior to European varieties.
• Hybrid - combines all the best. They are considered the most common in garden plots.

Features of care

Gooseberries do not tolerate acidic soils; it is recommended to add garden compost and lime to the planting trench. Bushes are planted in September. When planted in spring, the plant may die. Old and dry branches need to be pruned. Collect gooseberries as they ripen. Because of the thorns on the branches, it is better to do this with gloves.

Blackberry

Blackberries have been grown in the garden relatively recently; previously they could only be found in the wild.

In terms of taste, it surpassed raspberries. The shrub with a perennial rhizome was not in demand due to its sharp thorns. However, thanks to breeders, they appeared. It has an external resemblance to black raspberries. It tastes sour.

Varieties of blackberries

• Straight-growing blackberry- considered the most common. Bushes give a good harvest and save space on the site.
• Semi-creeping varieties are extremely rare. Experienced gardeners recommend planting this particular variety.
• Remontant blackberry - allows you to harvest 2 harvests per season: June, August.

Features of care

It produces a rich harvest on well-fed soil. In straight-growing varieties, it is necessary to tie up young stems. Blackberries are planted in a trench strictly along the line, otherwise maintenance difficulties may arise. During the fruiting period, the bushes need to be watered abundantly.

Honeysuckle

Edible varieties of honeysuckle are popularly called “rejuvenating berries.” The name did not appear by chance, since the berries contain the element of youth - selenium. The bushes bloom beautifully, so they are often used for decorative purposes. However, to a greater extent, the berry is valued as a useful storehouse of vitamins.

Ripens in mid-May. The berry has a slightly bitter specific taste.

Varieties of honeysuckle

• Long-fruited honeysuckle - medium-sized bushes are distinguished by the cylindrical shape of the berries.
• Hybrid varieties - bred by breeders by crossing varieties of berries.
• Mid-late varieties - allow you to harvest honeysuckle until late autumn.

Features of care

The bushes do not tolerate shade well. When choosing a place for planting, it is better to give preference to sunny places. Suitable for planting in both autumn and spring. In the spring, this must be done before the growing season begins. Honeysuckle grows slowly, so that the bush takes root and bears fruit well, it is fed.

Bushes 6-8 years old require sanitary pruning. Dried branches must be removed. Young shoots do not need to be pruned.

Currant

Perennial currant bushes can be found in garden plots and forest plantations. The berries are famous for their taste and beneficial properties. Unpretentious bushes allow you to reap rich harvests. It is almost impossible to choose one single variety for a site. The best option would be to grow several species at once. The seedlings adequately overcome the harsh disasters of nature in cold winter conditions.

Varieties of currants

• Black currants of early, medium and late ripening. Large-fruited varieties are considered the most popular.
• Red currants are distinguished by heavier clusters. Bushes can grow without replanting for up to 20 years.
• White currant is a variety that is not inferior to red currant in taste and benefits.
• Hybrid varieties - bred by selecting varieties of gooseberries and currants.

Features of care

Gives a good harvest in well-drained soil. Do not plant in an acidic environment. During the growing season, soil loosening is required. Do not allow the soil to dry out; in dry weather it is necessary to provide watering.

In the fall, you need to rejuvenate the bushes by pruning outdated branches.

Blueberry

In many regions it is considered a rare berry. More often it can be found in the wild. There is a growing interest among gardeners in growing promising varieties on their plots. With proper care, you can have a good harvest of healthy berries.

Blueberries resemble blueberries in appearance.

Blueberry varieties

• Tall varieties do well as a hedge. Their bushes are branched, the berries have an intense blue or dark blue color.
• Low-growing blueberries bloom luxuriantly in spring, delighting with excellent yields and neat bushes.
• Southern varieties - were bred through hybridization for cultivation in arid climates.

Features of care

At home, it is better to grow not wild, but more adapted cultivated varieties. The bushes take root well regardless of the method of planting by seeds or dividing the bush. Pruning is carried out on adult bushes, starting from 5-6 years of plant life.

Blueberries are very picky about the soil; they need to create fertile conditions.

Sea ​​buckthorn

Sea buckthorn bushes can be found near bodies of water, which is why they are often called “sea thorn.” Experienced gardeners manage to successfully grow it in their plots. The use of berries is very wide; they are mainly used for medicinal purposes. Sea buckthorn oil is considered especially valuable.

Varieties of sea buckthorn

• Early, medium and late ripening - garden varieties of sea buckthorn.
• Botanical variety - has virtually no thorns.
• Large-fruited varieties have a sweeter taste and do not have thorns.

Features of care

The bush will bear fruit if a male and female specimen of sea buckthorn is planted nearby.. For the winter it requires covering the soil and does not tolerate severe frosts very well. Pruning is carried out in the spring. A bush 8-12 years old requires rejuvenation under the stump. It is not necessary to water the plant, except during a drought.

Irga

This beautiful plant is often used as an ornamental shrub. And only a few know how useful the berries that grow on it are. Having once tasted serviceberry berries, a gardener will definitely want to plant a bush on his property. The plant is not only useful, but also winter-hardy and can withstand harsh weather conditions.

The taste of serviceberry berries is somewhat reminiscent of cherries.

Varieties of serviceberry

• Alder serviceberry is a bush that blooms profusely in spring. In autumn the leaves turn bright colors. You can get up to 10 kg of berries from the plant.
• Canadian serviceberry is a tall tree-like shrub. The berries are fleshy and pleasant to the taste.
• Irga blood-red is a slender, medium-sized shrub. The berries are very juicy, with thin, delicate skin.

Features of care

It is considered an unpretentious plant and requires virtually no care. Shrubs love abundant watering, especially during the growing season.

The first 2-3 years it is necessary to form a bush by pruning. At a later age, the plant is rejuvenated.

The berries attract birds, and the crop must be harvested promptly as they ripen.

By planting several varieties of shrubs, you can diversify the range of fruit seedlings in the garden. Regarding the choice of plants, it is so wide that it is impossible to advise anything with certainty. Types and varieties must be selected taking into account the individual characteristics of the plants.

By purchasing fruit trees and shrubs for a garden plot, its owner is laying the foundation for truly strategic plantings. They determine the appearance of the area adjacent to the house for many years to come, and with proper care they become the main source of fruit crops.

What fruit and berry crops are gardeners most often interested in? How to place the plants you like on the site and find the right neighborhood for them?

Fruit trees and shrubs: photos and names of popular crops

Due to the length of the country, spread across several natural zones at once, it is almost impossible to designate a single list of trees and shrubs. And yet there are species for which gardeners always try to find a suitable place. Photos and names of these fruit trees and shrubs are well known even to those who are far from gardening.

Among fruit trees, the undisputed leaders are apple trees of different varieties and ripening periods. Next come pears and the most common stone fruits: cherries and plums.

Fruit and berry bushes, found almost everywhere, include raspberries, various types of currants, and gooseberries. Today it is actively gaining popularity:

• healing sea buckthorn;
• felt cherry;
• early honeysuckle.

Blackberries are moving into the orchard; increasingly, chokeberry, shadberry and other crops can be found in the plots, which some time ago were perceived as secondary or planted only for landscaping.

The list of shrubs for the garden is much wider than the list of trees given above. No wonder. An orchard made entirely of trees will produce its first harvest no earlier than in 5–7 years, and shrubs are ready to please the gardener already in the second or third year after planting.

An additional advantage of shrubs is their relatively small size and less labor intensive care. However, no one will be able to replace pears with currants. Therefore, without trees, a garden will never be complete.

It is believed that in the northern regions gardeners are limited in their choice by the harsh climate, but the further south they go, the more diverse the population of garden plots becomes.

Indeed, starting from the Central Black Earth region, in the ranks of fruit and berry crops it is not uncommon:

• apricot;
• cherry plum;
• mulberry;
• various types of nuts;
• sweet cherry and its hybrid with cherry.

The list of shrubs is replenished with grapes, yoshta, dogwood and perennial fruit-bearing vines.

But if until recently gardeners in the middle zone and more northern regions were forced to content themselves with a very modest list of fruit and berry crops, today things are changing radically.

Nurseries have long and successfully offered fruit trees and shrubs for the Moscow region that were previously not available in the Non-Black Earth Region. The boundaries of the distribution of southern crops have seriously shifted to the north, not only due to climate change, but also thanks to the directed work of breeders.

It is precisely this bait that inexperienced gardeners fall for, wanting, at all costs, to obtain a “Garden of Eden” in a limited area. You can understand them! But it is not enough to purchase seedlings; it is important to plant and grow them correctly, taking into account all the needs of the plants and the characteristics of the territory.

Rules for placing fruit trees and shrubs in a garden plot

Young seedlings planted in the garden increase in growth year after year. After a few years, when the time for fruiting comes, the crowns grow by 1.5–2 meters. And mature trees take up even more space.

It is not enough to select the most winter-hardy, productive varieties; you need to accurately plan the future orchard.

It is better to do this on a sheet of paper, based on measurements of the distances from the landing zone to the nearest buildings, roads, and fences of neighboring properties. When planting fruit trees and shrubs in a garden plot, it is necessary to take into account not only the aesthetic preferences of the owner, but also mandatory standards. They regulate the distances from large plants to residential and outbuildings, transport routes, communications and the land survey line running between sections.

So, for example, from an apple or pear tree to a residential building or garage there should be at least 3.5–4 meters. This distance is explained by the safe operation of the structure and the need for constant care of large garden crops. For shrubs the distance is less and is one and a half meters, which makes it possible:

• unhindered maintenance of walls, windows and other structures and communications;
• do not be afraid of excessive humidity in close contact with vegetation;
• care for fruit and berry crops, harvest, prune and replant them.

In addition to the mandatory restrictions dictated by common sense and safety, there are other rules that are worth considering when planning an orchard.

It is extremely important to adhere to the distances between seedlings in rows, and also to take into account the deadline for growing a particular crop in one place.

Useful and harmful proximity of fruit trees and shrubs in a garden plot

Knowledge of the needs of individual plant species and their characteristics is of considerable importance for the future of planting:

1. Some crops prefer to grow in the sun, while others easily adapt to the shade.
2. For some fruit trees and shrubs in the garden plot, an open, windswept place is suitable, while for others you will have to find shelter.
3. Plant requirements for fertility and watering vary.

It is unlikely that in a limited area of ​​land it will be possible to satisfy all the needs of green pets. In a small country garden, inevitably some shrubs end up under the canopy of growing trees. To ensure that such proximity does not affect the yield, the location for planting shade-loving fruit trees and shrubs in the garden is determined in advance.

Such crops include black currants, honeysuckle, low-growing berry bushes, such as cranberries, blueberries and lingonberries. If the shady corner of the garden is well ventilated, viburnum will thrive here. Blackberries and raspberries are grown in partial shade.

Gardeners have long noticed that even in comfortable conditions, garden plants sometimes refuse to bear fruit at full strength, look depressed and grow poorly. It turns out that the reason for this behavior is an incorrectly chosen neighborhood. As in nature, in an orchard, trees, shrubs and herbaceous crops form close communities. The given options for successful and dangerous neighborhoods of fruit trees and shrubs in the table will help create the best conditions for each species and get the maximum benefit from it.

You can arrange the plantings so that closely related plants are nearby. This solution will be extremely useful, for example, for cherries and petioles, many varieties of which are self-sterile and require a pollinator to produce a harvest. A similar picture is observed when growing sea buckthorn. True, here there must be one male bush for several female plants.

In addition, for sea buckthorn, which readily reproduces by root cuttings, blackberries and raspberries, it is better to find a place away from the rest of the garden plantings, otherwise the powerful shoots of these crops will take over half the garden within a year.

August is the time when the garden berries are gone; apples, pears and plums are ripe in the middle zone. And gardeners have time to look at their fruit trees and shrubs and think: are they all needed on the site, is it time to get rid of something - and what seedlings to buy instead? This is how the author of books on gardening, Galina Kizima, suggests conducting an audit of the garden - her summer cottage is located in the Leningrad region.

Gardeners have one very favorite rake. We don’t want to come to terms with the fact that pineapple doesn’t grow here, and we plant whatever we like. How can you learn to make your plantings thoughtfully?

Discard those inhabitants of your garden that are of no interest as fruit or berry crops. For decorative reasons, leave in your garden only those that do not require much care and attention. Of the fruit trees and shrubs, plant only those that provide a good yield with minimal labor, and most importantly, sharply reduce the number of such plants.

1. Start by making a list of all the trees, shrubs, and other large plants you have and write the number next to each one.
2. Now cut this amount in half.
3. Then eliminate those plants that you can do without.
4. Then see which of those left on the list satisfy you with the quantity and quality of the harvest obtained. Put a plus sign next to them.
5. And also remove from the list the problematic ones that constantly require your attention or a lot of work.

Fruit trees: how many apples, pears, plums to plant?

First question: how much do you have? apple trees growing on the site? But you only need three: summer, early autumn and autumn (advice for the northern regions, since late autumn, and even more so winter varieties ripen there once every 5-7 years).

If the family is small, then two varieties of apple trees will suffice: early autumn and autumn. In a good year, you will have enough to eat and will have enough left over to prepare for the winter. During a lean harvest, eat with pleasure.

Grush in any case, you need two, they are, of course, better eaten than apples, but they are not particularly good for anything else, they are poorly stored, and they bear fruit annually and abundantly.

Cherries It’s better to have bush ones; real ones don’t grow anywhere except hot continental places. They get sick a lot; in the northern regions this is a problematic crop. So why do you need her on the site? Well, perhaps for the beauty of the spring garden.

Plums and even worse, in the northern territories they generally bear fruit once every 3-7 years, the trees are unsightly, and do not decorate the garden. Plums are not too expensive, buy some to eat. They, like cherries, are cross-pollinated, and therefore you need to plant 2-3 and, moreover, a suitable variety. How will you know about this? When in 4-5 years it turns out that there are a dozen berries hanging on them? Well, that means the pollinator is not the one you need. And all over again.

In the North-West, and therefore everywhere, cherry plums and damsons grow. So raise them. Cherry plum is a large plant, about the size of an apple tree, and you need two of them, preferably self-fertile ones. And the damson is a small plant and will survive alone.

Does apricot grow in the northern regions? No, it doesn't grow if it's a real apricot. Judging by Kurdyumov’s books, it doesn’t grow in Krasnodar either. Although this plant is quite winter-hardy and tolerates severe frosts without snow cover, but only in a continental climate. The fact is that he does not have a good night's sleep. During winter thaws, the plant easily “wakes up”, it begins to flow sap, and then a sharp cold snap causes the death of the cambium. Another reason is late spring frosts, which destroy young leaves and buds that have entered the period of growth and development, and even more so flowers.

What shrubs to plant in the garden

Irga- the plant is tall, although it is a bush, it is unproductive, the berries are insipid, uninteresting, children, however, love to eat them from the bush. But so do birds. Almost half of the crop is destroyed. You can cut it without letting it grow. It will thicken with root growth and form a nice green fence. So plant it in quality. Does not require any maintenance. If you let it go, it will reach 4-5 m. Then cut it down to the root. It will grow again.

Sea ​​buckthorn. You don’t need many, you just need one, if there is a male specimen within a radius of 100 m, the harvest is guaranteed. If there is no harvest, you will have to get your own peasant. Most do not harvest the crops, but leave them to feed the birds. The question arises: why are they imprisoned? Obviously, for completeness of the range.

The plant is pretty, it can be trimmed while maintaining the desired height, so you can use it as a green hedge, but only outside the site, otherwise in 10-15 years you will only have to fight its ubiquitous growth, and it is difficult to tear it out.

Actinidia With us, it’s not so much living and growing as it is barely surviving. It’s painful to watch how during spring frosts all the leaves and young shoots freeze completely. This is how the poor fellow suffers every spring. During all the time that I pulled the actinidia out of its half-fainting state, it only gave a harvest once in a rare year without spring frosts, and even with a warm summer. Only 1.2 kg from a fifteen-year-old vine! So she grew old, poor thing, practically barren. I had to remove it. It's a shame I didn't do this right away.

It is believed that Actinidia Kolomikta (the only one that grows in the northern regions) is a beautiful plant for gazebos, pergolas, and walls due to its ability to change the color of its leaves. I’ll tell you honestly that it’s much easier and without any problems to plant virgin grapes for this purpose. He will grow up and be no less beautiful.

Red Ribes, like black, are northwestern plants. Nothing takes them away, they grow and bear fruit perfectly. You just need to acquire good, zoned varieties that are genetically stable. One bush is enough for red, because a good bush produces up to 12 kg of berries annually. Where else? You can’t eat a lot of it, the wine made from it is mediocre, you don’t need a lot of jelly either (however, it’s much tastier with raspberries in a 4:1 ratio).

A good bush is capable of producing about 6 kg of berries annually, so 3-4 bushes are more than enough for a family.

Gooseberry- the plant is useful, even very useful, but caring for it is difficult because of the thorns. The best varieties either freeze slightly due to the level of snow cover, or constantly suffer from powdery mildew. So they will require care. It is better to grow varieties with black-colored berries; they are resistant to powdery mildew and practically do not freeze. If you take good care of 2-3 bushes, there will be enough berries for everything.

Berry bushes will have to regularly cut out aging and therefore poorly fruiting branches, feed and water (black currants), rejuvenate the bushes in time, or even replace them altogether. But if you have a reasonable number of them growing, then it won’t take much time, especially if you do the following:

• once every three years, plant a tablespoon of AVA fertilizer into the soil under the bush (along the perimeter of the crown);
• water the bush and the soil under it with “Fitosporin” in spring and autumn;
• do not remove fallen leaves from under the bushes, but, on the contrary, throw shaved weeds (under them and around them) under them.

To protect against pests and spheroteca (American powdery mildew), there is a simple old-fashioned method - in early June, throw a shovel of fresh manure into the middle of the bush. Again, place the tomato shoots under the bushes to disorient the pests with the smell of withering tops.

Black rowan One is enough, but it is very decorative, so it can be used for decorative decoration of the garden, including for creating a fence.

Japanese Quince (Chaenomeles) It is not of great food value; it freezes above the snow cover, but it is one of the first to bloom, and very beautifully.

- a very useful berry crop, in general it does not require much care, but for a good harvest you need 2-3 bushes, since the plant is strictly cross-pollinated. In addition, honeysuckle will bear fruit decently only in a sunny place.

Discussion

The article is essentially not bad, it would also be nice to know what region the story is about. Our plums grow wonderfully, and there are no problems with gooseberries.

What a smart article! Where were you before? We planted so much unnecessary stuff. We went through every word of this story from our own experience and the extra apple trees, currants and shadberry filled half of the plot, then it took a long time to get rid of them.

Comment on the article "Do-it-yourself garden: which seedlings to buy, which trees to get rid of"

DIY garden: which seedlings to buy, which trees to get rid of. Cherry plum is a large plant, about the size of an apple tree, and you need two of them, preferably self-fertile ones. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables...

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. DIY garden: which seedlings to buy, which trees to get rid of.

DIY garden: which seedlings to buy, which trees to get rid of. Garden plan: what seedlings to buy. How many varieties of apple trees, fruit trees and shrubs are needed on the site. Regarding trees, you must definitely take into account: - you need to plant two varieties of cherries side by side...

What shrubs to plant in the garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables The land there is good... How to plant thuja for a hedge at the dacha. It is better to plant in places protected from the wind.

We bought two-year-olds from the Michurinsky Garden in August 2011, in the spring of 2012 they bloomed and the first fruits appeared in the summer. But we also transplanted 10-year-old ones, and then they were doused with water. We got sick and settled down. DIY garden: which seedlings to buy, from which trees...

DIY garden: which seedlings to buy, which trees to get rid of. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings At the post office I noticed a crumpled box, I thought that was it, my irises and daylilies were gone.

DIY garden: which seedlings to buy, which trees to get rid of. Fruit trees: how many apples, pears, plums to plant? What shrubs to plant in the garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables...

DIY garden: which seedlings to buy, which trees to get rid of. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest.

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. yeah, I’m not sure yet about all the apple trees planted last year, but I actually don’t remember having anything...

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Or shouldn’t you bother? Or maybe there’s something else you can plant in advance? (the plot is large - plant as much as you like).

DIY garden: which seedlings to buy, which trees to get rid of. Juniper: planting and care. You just need to buy seedlings with a closed root system. But before you start planting juniper, you should decide on the variety and choose a place...

DIY garden: which seedlings to buy, which trees to get rid of. Michurinsky Garden began selling seedlings. nurseries for fruit tree seedlings? Address: Moscow, Zagoryevskaya st., 4, Biryulevo-Zagorie, 04/01/2010 09:56:58, Astilbochka.

What shrubs to plant in the garden. Evergreen garden. Plant a decorative group of conifers and evergreen perennials in your garden. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. DIY garden: which seedlings to buy, which trees to get rid of. Fruit trees: how much to plant...

Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Fruit trees: how many apples, pears, plums to plant? What shrubs to plant in the garden. But you only need three: summer, early autumn and...

Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. DIY garden: which seedlings to buy, which trees to get rid of. Is it now possible to plant apple trees in August?

what to plant on the site? Arrangement of the site. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and Fruit trees: how many apple, pear, and plum trees to plant? What shrubs to plant in the garden. trees and bushes and think: is everything...

What shrubs to plant in the garden. My seedlings planted in winter fell out, but none in the spring. Winter work in the garden is mandatory, despite the fact that fruit trees and shrubs are in a state of absolute dormancy.

What shrubs to plant in the garden. Irga is a tall plant, although it is a bush, unproductive, the berries are fresh and uninteresting... Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables...

Trees from road dust. Arrangement of the site. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs. We decided to plant two rows of trees along the road: the outer one - pyramidal poplars (tall and do not bloom) and the inner one - birch trees.

Decorative shrubs. Landscape design. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs I want to plant ornamental shrubs on the plot, but I don’t know what kind. Only barberry and honeysuckle come to mind.

There are about 40 species of fruit and berry trees and shrubs: from familiar ones, grown everywhere, to exotic ones, requiring special conditions. It is a rare owner of his own plot, regardless of the size of the land, who sooner or later does not think about planting useful fruit-bearing trees and shrubs.

Varieties and types of fruit trees and shrubs

Some of the most common fruit trees in Russia are apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, peaches, nectarines, and cherry plums.

Medicinal trees: sea buckthorn, viburnum, honeysuckle, rose hips, chokeberry, hawthorn.

Shrubs: currants, raspberries, gooseberries, serviceberry.

Cultivated forest berries: lingonberries, cranberries, blueberries, blueberries, blackberries.

Fruit vines: grapes and actinidia.

Exotic: gumi, walnut, goji, duke, dogwood, medlar.

There are tens of thousands of names of fruit trees, and the selection of their varieties is constantly increasing.

Fruit vines

To select fruit trees for the garden, you should consider the following factors:

• The demands of crops on the distance from each other in a row and their height, so that low-growing species are not shaded by taller ones;
• Compatibility of trees and their pollinators. Most trees are self-fertile and require pollinators - certain varieties that bloom at the same time. For shrubs, cross-pollination with other varieties of its species increases yield;
• Regionalization of varieties, for example, winter-hardy for Siberia and the Moscow region;
• Ripening dates of varieties: early, middle and late;
• Plant compatibility - proper proximity improves the quality of the crop, for example, varieties of regular and remontant raspberries are planted at a long distance;
• Demanding soil composition - all fruit plants require fertile soil, but different species require acidic, neutral or alkaline soil;
• Demanding on illumination, shade tolerance;
• Demanding care and watering - some plants are unpretentious and grow favorably on their own with minimal care, others require shelter for the winter, frequent watering or early spring care. Therefore, when choosing fruit-bearing trees for a site, one should take into account the possible time spent on the site;
• The timing of the beginning of fruiting, so some species can please you with fruits the next year after planting, others will have to wait more than 7 years.

Varieties of apple and pear trees differ in terms of ripening and storage. There are summer, autumn and winter species. There are also differences between varieties in the size and color of the fruit, and in their taste - from sour to sweet.

Apple tree varieties

Garden plum, depending on the variety, has fruits of different colors: yellow, blue, purple, red and pale green, and sizes from small to large.

Cherry varieties can be divided into: self-fertile, cherries of different ripening periods, excellent in winter hardiness and taste.

Raspberries are divided into traditional varieties of different ripening periods, as well as large-fruited types and a special remontant variety.

Gooseberries are divided into European, American and hybrid varieties.

Blackberries can be upright, semi-creeping and remontant.

Dwarf and fast-growing varieties

Low-growing fruit trees are grown in small garden plots and for decorative purposes. In terms of fruiting, dwarf trees are not inferior to their usual varieties and, moreover, bear fruit earlier.

Description of some varieties

Apple tree

Candy is an early summer, productive, winter-hardy variety. The fruits are small in size, about 100 g, and have one of the best taste qualities among summer varieties. The color of the fruit is light yellow, with a pink blurred blush and red streaks throughout the apple. Fruiting occurs in 4-5 years.

Pear

Decora is a winter-hardy, unpretentious variety. Fruiting begins in the second year of growth. Pears ripen at the end of summer, weighing up to 260 g, green-yellow in color, sometimes with a side blush. Fruits with unusually juicy, sweet and sour pulp.

Plum

President is a mid-season winter-hardy variety, resistant to drought, fungal diseases and pests. Bears fruit for 2-3 years. A variety with annual high yield. The plums are large, red-violet in color with a bluish waxy coating. The pulp is dense, juicy, sweet, with a pleasant sourness, light yellow in color. Separable bone.

Cherry

Shokoladnitsa is a self-fertile winter-hardy variety. Fruiting occurs in the 4th year. The branches hold the crop well. The variety is distinguished by sweet large fruits, similar in taste to cherries, with a dark burgundy, almost black color. Cherries ripen in mid-summer and are zoned for central Russia.

Peach

Balconella is a low-growing tree, not exceeding 1 m in height. It has an average ripening period. Fruiting occurs in 2-3 years. Fruits of excellent taste and aroma, weighing up to 150 g. The stone is easily separated.

Apricot

Early Red Orange is an extremely early, productive, self-fertile variety. Has good winter hardiness. The fruits, weighing 50-80 g, are round in shape, orange in color, with a slight blush. The pulp is juicy and aromatic, with excellent taste. A variety with high disease resistance and excellent transportability characteristics.

The fruits of trees grown on a dwarf rootstock are distinguished by higher commercial qualities. The illumination of small trees is sufficient throughout the entire crown; in this case, the fruits acquire a rich color and accumulate more sugars, which has a positive effect on their taste. Dwarf fruit trees for the garden also have a lower percentage of fruit shedding.

Decorative varieties of fruit trees and shrubs

Decorative types of fruit trees are used for single plantings and creating hedges when framing buildings.

Types of ornamental fruit trees

Common dogwood is an unpretentious deciduous shrub that is distinguished by early flowering of a golden hue. Grows in the southern regions of Russia. The fruits have medicinal properties.

The Niedzwiecki apple tree is an ornamental tree that has flowers and leaves of a red-crimson hue and has good winter hardiness. The miniature fruits are edible and can remain on the branches almost all winter.

Plum splayed is a picturesque red-leaved tree, decorative, which lasts throughout the year. In autumn, the fruits appear in the form of small red and yellow balls, similar to cherries.

Kiku Shidare cherry - sakura, self-fertile decorative cherry with pink double flowers. It has a spreading thickened crown.

Types of fruit ornamental shrubs

Black elderberry is a fragrantly flowering shrub of the honeysuckle family, with white inflorescences and a dense crown. The plant is unpretentious in care. Jams and jams are made from the fruits, and the fruits and flowers are also part of the famous alcoholic drink - sambuca.

Black elderberry

Viburnum Viburnum - Viburnum blooms beautifully with lush white inflorescences. In autumn, clusters of bright red, seemingly transparent, berries ripen. Viburnum berries have great medicinal value.

Hawthorn - belongs to the Rosaceae family, a shrub with fragrant beautiful flowering and fruiting. The flowers are white, collected in small inflorescences. The shrub is used to create hedges.

Rosehip is a shrub that blooms with beautiful large flowers and vitamin-rich fruits. The flowers remain on the bush for several months and come in various shades with a wonderful aroma.

Barberry is a thorny shrub, 1 to 4 m high. It has a variety of leaf colors: yellow, burgundy, green, purple. There are several types and varieties of barberry. Often used for planting near fences with a protective function due to the presence of thorns throughout the bush.

Highbush blueberry is a shrub with constant decorative value throughout the season and beautiful, healthy fruits. Demanding on soil conditions.

Actinidia kolomikta is a liana with variably colored leaves and fruits that have the structure and taste of kiwi fruit.

How to propagate varieties of fruit and berry plants

Fruit and berry crops are propagated vegetatively, when a new whole tree is restored from individual organs or parts of another. By growing from a seed or seed, it will not be possible to obtain all the original parental qualities, since plants have a complex hereditary basis. The seed method is used in breeding for breeding new varieties and growing rootstocks.

Fruit trees

Cuttings are a fast, effective method of propagation, suitable for most fruit and berry crops. For cuttings, choose lignified or green, annual, strongest and healthiest branches of the plant.

Autumn cuttings are carried out followed by winter storage of the cuttings in a cool place or with horizontal digging in the ground, under mild winter conditions. In autumn, cuttings are cut after leaf fall, before frost sets in. Autumn cuttings are stored until spring.

Summer cuttings with green shoots are carried out for shrubs. Green shoots have a higher ability to form roots than woody shoots. The peculiarity of summer cuttings is that green shoots are not used for storage. After cutting, the cuttings are placed in a solution of growth stimulants so that they produce roots. After the roots appear, the sprout is planted in open ground. For growth and rooting, high humidity and an appropriate temperature of 23-25C° are required, which may require the construction of a greenhouse and daily watering. The place where the seedling is grown should be shaded, avoiding bright sun throughout the day. One month after planting, you can ventilate by opening the greenhouse during the day.

Additional Information. Currants, raspberries, plums, gooseberries, sea buckthorn, and certain varieties of apple trees can be propagated using green cuttings.

Fruit trees are propagated by grafting. A grafted plant can be purchased at a nursery, ordered by mail, or grafted yourself. The rootstock is that part or independent fruit tree into which the required crop is grafted; it can also be a seedling or a wild one. It is important to choose a compatible crop as a rootstock, with a well-developed root system and good frost resistance, if necessary. Self-grafting will allow you to renew your garden and get the variety you like within several years, without planting a seedling and a long wait.

Summer cuttings of fruit trees require immediate grafting.

High-quality cuttings are taken from the southern side of the tree from the middle tier; such shoots form short internodes with developed eyes.

High quality cuttings

When thinking about what fruit and berry trees and shrubs to plant on your site, you should carefully approach the zoning of the territory and determine in advance where the crops can be grown. Most trees have a long growth period, do not tolerate transplantation well and need to be allocated a permanent place of growth.

Easy-to-care varieties and types of plants differ:

• resistance to weather conditions, cold resistance when chosen for regions with harsh climates, which do not require shelter for the winter;
• are distinguished by longevity;
• have low fruit shedding;
• varieties bred with high disease resistance;
• self-fertile varieties;
• shade-tolerant varieties;
• not demanding on soil composition and fertilizing;
• with early fruiting period;
• do not require complex crown formation.

A beautiful, fragrant garden or separately planted fruit trees and shrubs will become a constant joy and pleasure from receiving delicious vitamin-rich fruits. There are a large number of varieties of crops; in order to choose suitable varieties, you should take into account the various characteristics of crop growth and your own preferences.

Fruit trees include all fruit crops that have a tree-like form. As a rule, they have one trunk, but there may be exceptions with several trunks (for example, figs or mulberries).

There are certain requirements for growing such plants. Tips and practical recommendations for selecting a location, planting and further caring for them can be found in this article.

The best fruit trees for the garden - names and photos

According to the botanical classification, most fruit trees belong to the Rosaceae class (for example, apple, pear, cherry, etc.). Mulberry plants include figs and mulberries. In addition, this category includes nut crops (hazel, hazelnuts, walnuts).

As a group of plants, they are very sensitive to growing conditions, although they are quite easy to grow in an ordinary garden.

Basic soil and conditions requirements include:

• High-quality soil drainage with optimal moisture;
• Sufficient amount of sun;
• Deep tillage.

When growing such crops, the harvest can be obtained only after several years, unlike other agricultural plants. However, in the future the fruiting period lasts for decades.

Among the wide variety of fruit trees, it is difficult to select the best, but we will try to describe the most popular and unpretentious ones, which are suitable for growing in any climate. The most popular are apple and pear trees, and by choosing the right variety, you can enjoy juicy fruits from early summer until late autumn. Among stone fruit crops, cherries and plums are especially popular, as they are characterized by high yields and frost resistance. Also in the gardens you can find fruit bushes - raspberries, honeysuckle and sea buckthorn, walnuts, petioles, mulberries and cherry plums. In general, we can say that the choice of fruit trees and shrubs for the garden depends entirely on the tastes of the owner of the site, and a wide variety of modern hybrids allows you to select varieties that are resistant to cold and drought.

Selecting a planting site and preparing the site

They are especially careful when choosing a landing site. The site should be fairly sunny and humid. In addition, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil. An approximate layout of trees, bushes and outbuildings is shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1. From left to right: location of the orchard and buildings on a standard plot of land, basic recommendations for planting and technology for storing seedlings

First of all, perennial weeds are removed. To do this, you can simply dig up the ground and remove the weed roots, or use special herbicides. In some cases, even after weeding and processing, weeds remain. In this situation, herbicide treatment is repeated after planting, choosing products that are safe for the fruit crop.

Note: Additionally, trees provide protection from birds. Unfortunately, it is impossible to organize protection for large specimens, but for dwarf crops you can make a cage from metal wire.

You can use not only open areas as a place, but also an area near walls or fences. For example, cherries grow well near northern walls, and certain varieties of plums, protected from the wind by a wall, bear fruit even better than in open areas. For figs, you should choose the warmest wall. Practical recommendations for planting an orchard are given in the video.

How to plant a tree correctly

Productivity directly depends on the quality of planting. First of all, you need to properly prepare the soil (dig up and remove weeds). A plot of one square meter is allocated for one tree. The soil is checked for acidity level. If it is below 5.8, additional lime is added to the soil.

Note: Before planting the seedling, bone meal and mineral fertilizers are added to the dug hole. The choice of location also plays an important role. It is better to carry it out during dormancy, that is, in early spring, when the soil has not had time to warm up much. If you plan to grow in a pot or tub, planting is carried out year-round.

If the seedlings were received at the wrong time, dig them in a little in a windless area or place them in a room without heating (for example, in a barn or garage), wrapping the roots in damp straw and a bag.

Subsequently, planting occurs according to the following principle:

• At the site, stakes are driven into the ground (in light soil to a depth of 60 cm, in heavy soil - 45 cm);
• The height and number of stakes are chosen depending on the breed. For example, for tall varieties, stakes should be up to 2.5 meters high, and for dwarf breeds, meter-long stakes are sufficient. In addition, for specimens with a wide crown (for example, cherry), several stakes are installed on both sides of the trunk. The top of the stakes should be located a few centimeters below the crown to avoid damaging the branches.
• Dwarf trees constantly need support in the form of stakes. For tall varieties, stakes are needed only in the first five years, after which they can be removed. First, the trunk is shaken to make sure that it is securely fixed in the soil.

On the day of planting, dig a hole of sufficient size. The straightened roots of the seedling should be freely located in it. A small hill is placed in the center of the pit. The soil from the bottom of the pit is mixed with manure or compost (Figure 2).

The further landing order is as follows:

• Long or broken roots are cut off;
• The seedling is placed in the center of the hole, 5-7 cm from the supporting stake;
• To prevent the scion from taking root, it should be placed at least 10 cm from the surface;
• The hole is filled with earth, supporting the seedling vertically. First you need to sprinkle the roots with the top, more fertile layer of soil, and then with the rest of the soil. At the final stage, the earth is compacted;
• Next, mulch with manure, peat or compost. To prevent the trunk of the seedling from becoming infected with fungus, a free space of several centimeters in diameter is left around it.
• The tree must be tied to a stake. If the seedling is one-year-old, a small rope will be enough, but two-year-old seedlings need to be secured more securely. At the same time, a gasket is placed between the rope or wire and the bark to prevent damage to the bark. Short ones are tied in one place, and tall ones in two.

Figure 2. Correct technology for planting fruit trees

If there is a possibility that the bark of the seedling will be damaged by hares or other rodents, they are fenced with a wire mesh. The ligaments are checked annually and periodically loosened as the tree grows.

Special technology should be followed if the seedling is planted against a wall. If the soil is poor and does not drain well, pipes or a well must be laid, and the poor soil is enriched with turf, manure or fertilizers. When planting near a wall, make an indent of 30 cm, and after that the young tree is regularly watered. From the video you will learn expert advice on planting fruit trees.

Caring for trees in the garden

Fruit trees grow slowly, but if you want to get a bountiful harvest, you need to take care of the garden from the very beginning of planting the seedlings in the ground. In addition to standard watering, fertilizing and preventive spraying, it is worth highlighting special care measures, which will be described below.

Selection of rootstocks

Most popular fruit trees (apples, plums, pears, cherries and apricots) grow too tall when using seed rootstocks. To limit height, dwarf rootstocks are used.

For example, a pear can be grafted onto a quince to limit its growth. Figure 3 shows the growth patterns of pears and cherries using rootstocks of different varieties.

Figure 3. Growth pattern of fruit trees (pears and cherries) when using certain rootstocks

The main problem with choosing rootstocks occurs with cherries. Recently, breeders have created a dwarf hybrid, but it still does not provide the required level of growth restriction.

Pruning and crown formation

Pruning is a necessary stage in growing a garden, since proper pruning allows you to preserve the vitality of the plant and a high level of productivity.

Each fruit crop has its own standards and technology for pruning and shaping. At first glance, they may seem complicated, but by strictly following the step-by-step instructions, even a novice gardener will be able to perform pruning. Basic pruning recommendations are shown in Figure 4.

Pruning terminology plays an important role:

• Skeletal branches of the first order extend directly from the trunk. Second-order skeletal branches extend from them;
• The central conductor (leader) is a continuation of the trunk, namely its upper part;
• Overgrowing branches are short lateral branches that are covered with buds and flowers. To stimulate their growth, special pruning technology is used.

Figure 4. Scheme of branches and technology for pruning fruit plants

There is also a certain classification of kidneys. In the process of growth, floral ones change into flowers, and growth ones change into young shoots.

Artificial pollination

Many varieties of fruit trees cannot self-pollinate. That is, when planting just one plant of a certain variety, it will not be possible to get a harvest. That is why, when creating a garden, several seedlings of the same or different varieties are planted nearby so that cross-pollination by bees occurs. Information about compatibility and the most effective pollinators should be considered when designing your garden.

Note: From a biological point of view, pollination is the transfer of pollen from the male organ (stamen) to the female organ (pistil). Fertilization occurs in the stigma of the pistil and the fruit appears. Generally, fertilization occurs by insects and wind, but some crops require hand pollination.

The time of flowering and, accordingly, pollination, differs depending on the variety. If the flowers bloom at the same time, cross-pollination can occur. However, there are varieties with mutual incompatibility. In this case, pollination will not occur. In addition, there are so-called ineffective pollinators (in particular, some types of apple and pear trees).

• Most fruit trees have a double (paired) set of chromosomes. But there are also species with a set of chromosomes one and a half times higher than the norm. These are poor pollinators and should be planted next to two plants in a paired set.
• Trees that bloom only once every two years are also considered poor pollinators.
• Cherries are excellent pollinators and self-pollinate well. It is good to plant cherries near cherries, as they are pollinated by them.
• Pollination of apricots and peaches is best done by hand. The same is done with nut crops, but for them periodic pruning is sufficient, since shaking the branches promotes the scattering of pollen. You can also pollinate grapes by shaking the vines during flowering.

If trees are grown in a greenhouse, pollination is carried out only by hand, since insects cannot enter the room. To check if the pollen is ready, just run your finger over the flower. If there are yellow lumps left on your hand, you can start pollinating.

Figure 5. Technology for manual pollination of fruit crops

For manual pollination, take a soft brush or cotton swab, carefully collect pollen from the stamens and transfer it to the pistils. If the plant has flowers of different sexes, you need to pick the male one, remove the petals from it and attach it to the center of all the female flowers (Figure 5). To increase efficiency, hand pollination is carried out daily until the end of flowering. It is important that pollination can only be carried out in the middle of the day in consistently dry and warm weather.