Spotlights can operate on a voltage of 220 V or 12 V. Regardless of the voltage, they can be connected in parallel (in a loop or with separate wires) or in series (a garland). The difference is that the power for the 12V spot is supplied through a step-down transformer. It converts mains 220 volts into the required 12. Let's talk in more detail about how to connect spotlights to one- and two-key switches.
Connection diagrams for 220 V
Some spotlights operate on 12 V. To supply them with power, you need to install a converter (they also say a transformer or driver). With the development of technology, spots have appeared that can operate from 220 V. This scheme is at least a little simpler, because recently it is more often necessary to connect spotlights directly to the network, without converters.
The use of recessed lamps allows you to obtain uniform lighting. In addition, you can choose a beautiful
Serial connection
This scheme is easy to implement, it requires few wires, but spotlights can be connected in series only in a relatively small number - five or six pieces. The main disadvantage of this method is that the lamps will not glow at full strength. Another drawback: if one lamp fails (burns out), all lamps stop working because the circuit is broken. To restore functionality, you have to check each one.
Scheme of sequential connection of spotlights
The circuit is very simple - the phase sequentially bypasses all lamps, and zero is supplied to the output of the last one. The circuit with the junction box and switch is located below.
Electrical wiring when connecting spots in series
When working, be careful: a phase must go to the switch, which then goes to the lamps. Zero (neutral) - goes directly to the last lamp in the chain. This is important for the correct operation of the circuit and also for safety.
If you have a three-wire wiring, in addition to zero and phase, there is also a protective ground wire, it is taken directly from the ground block and fed to each of the lamps to the corresponding terminal. You can take the ground from a nearby outlet or on a switch.
Scheme of sequential connection of spotlights to a two-key (double) switch
The practical implementation of this scheme is more convenient not with a cable, but with wires - after all, one wire constantly breaks, bypassing all the lamps, and the zero wire goes in a whole piece from the junction box to the last lighting fixture. But we repeat once again - this type of connection is almost never used.
Parallel connection diagrams
When connected in parallel, all lamps will shine at normal intensity, which is why this scheme is more popular even though more conductors are required. To connect any number of built-in lamps (even with LED lamps), use non-flammable 2*1.5 or 3*1.5 (a three-core wire is used if the wiring is grounded). It is possible to use VVG ng ls cable (non-flammable with reduced smoke emission during combustion), but this is optional. It can be round or flat = it doesn’t matter, but non-flammable is a must, especially if you have a wooden floor.
Methods
Parallel connection can be implemented in two ways:
Daisy chain connection
Let's look at the diagrams. The figure below shows how to route the wire using the daisy chain method. A cable comes out of the junction box, it goes to the first lamp, another piece of cable is connected to the output of this lamp, which stretches to the next lamp. This is how all lamps are connected.
Physically it looks like the photo below. Several lengths of cable connect the luminaires one after the other.
If you want to divide the lighting fixtures into two groups, they are connected to a two-key switch. The circuit becomes somewhat more complicated, but only because the number of wires increases.
An example of implementation can be seen in the video. You can use other terminals, but the method itself is shown well.
Radial
With a radial connection, each lighting fixture has its own piece of cable. The method is expensive in terms of cable consumption, but more reliable in terms of operation: in the event of a breakdown, only one lighting point does not light up. In this case, it makes sense to stretch the cable from the distribution box along the ceiling to the middle of the room and secure it there. From this point, start pulling cables to each recessed lamp.
Pay attention to the picture on the right. It shows that wires diverge from the phase wire to the lamps and separately from the neutral wire. Since a lot of wires converge in one place, you need to choose a reliable method. If the wires are single-core and there are not very many lamps, you can make a twist, but then you will need to crimp it well with pliers and then weld it. Not the easiest way and the connection turns out to be permanent. But reliable. The second method is simpler: install a connector with the required number of inputs on each cable conductor and connect the wires to them. You can use Wago terminal blocks for the corresponding number of connected wires. They are reliable, easy to install, but cost a decent amount (it’s better not to buy fakes).
Parallel connection - cable to each lamp
Another option is regular terminal blocks with screw connections. They are cheap and quite reliable, but on the side where the cable will be connected, you will have to put jumpers on all the terminals involved. This will supply voltage to all wires.
Despite its high reliability, the method is rarely used - the costs are high, and it is problematic to efficiently connect a large number of wires at one point.
Connecting 12 V spotlights
The circuits are exactly the same, but the cable from the switch goes to the converter, and from the output of the converter it goes to the lamps.
If there are a lot of spotlights, they prefer to be connected to two keys. In this case, two transformers (power supply, adapter) will be required. The scheme does not look much more complicated - there are two branches. If you wish, you can find switches with three keys, or you can put several next to each other. But, if you need to change the lighting within a wide range, it is better to use a dimmer.
As you understand, the circuits differ only in the presence or absence of a transformer. So it will be easy to implement the remaining schemes.
Converter/transformer power selection
For the lighting to work properly, it is necessary that the driver power be 15-20% greater than all consumers connected to it. For example, you need to select a step-down transformer to connect 8 spotlights, in which 40 W incandescent lamps will be installed. The total power of all lamps will be 320 W. A transformer will be required for 380-400 W.
It is clear that the more light sources you connect, the more powerful the converter will be required. But with increasing power, the price and size of the device increases. In addition, powerful transformers can be difficult to find. One more thing: a large and heavy box can be difficult to hide. Therefore, in this case, a large group of lamps is divided, and each has its own converter, but of lower power (how to connect spotlights in this case can be seen in the diagram above).
Installation features
To correctly connect spotlights, you need not only to choose the right circuit. It is necessary to follow a certain sequence of actions, which depends on the type of ceiling.
You just need to connect a few spotlights - and you have a beautiful interior
In suspended ceilings
Spotlights are usually installed with suspended or suspended ceilings. If the ceilings are suspended, all wires are laid in advance. They are attached to the ceiling without connecting to power, the lamps are placed and secured on pendants, then the wires are connected to them and the operation is checked.
Before installing suspended ceilings, turn off the power, remove the lamps and remove parts that may be damaged by temperature. Afterwards, holes are cut in the material (the lamps are visible or can be felt), sealing rings are installed, and then the lamps are assembled.
In plasterboard ceilings
If, you can proceed according to the same scheme, but you need to install the lamps after the ceiling is plastered. That is, separate the wiring and leave the ends of the wiring hanging freely. To avoid problems with determining the location of lighting fixtures, it is necessary to draw a detailed plan indicating the exact distances from the walls and from each other. According to this plan, markings are made and holes are cut out using a drill with a crown of the appropriate size. Since there may be small movements - a few centimeters - when cutting the cable, leave a margin of 15-20 cm. This will be quite enough (but do not forget that the wires are attached to the main ceiling and they should extend 7-10 cm beyond the level of the drywall. If the ends turn out to be too long, you can always shorten them, but extending them is a big problem.
There is a second way to connect spotlights to a plasterboard ceiling. It is used if there are few light sources - four to six pieces. The entire installation of spotlights along with wiring is done after the work on the ceiling has been completed. Before installation begins, the cable/cables from the junction box are led beyond the ceiling level. After finishing the puttying and sanding work, markings are made and holes are drilled. The cable is passed through them, bringing the ends out. Then the lamps themselves are installed.
Everything is simple, but this method cannot be called correct: the cables simply lie on the drywall, which definitely does not comply with fire safety standards. You can still turn a blind eye to this if the ceiling is concrete, the cable is non-flammable, the cross-section of the wire is not small, and it is done correctly.
If the floors are wooden, the PUE requires installation in non-flammable all-metal trays (cable ducts) or metal pipes. You can install such wiring only before starting work on the ceiling. It is very undesirable to violate installation rules - wood, electricity, heat generation during operation... not the safest combination.
Proper installation of ceiling lights allows you to bring an atmosphere of comfort and coziness into your home. In addition, well-placed lighting can visually enlarge the space and raise the ceilings. Unfortunately, the process of installing lighting fixtures is quite complex and is preceded by several stages of preparatory work, such as organizing the power supply to each fixture, as well as arranging places for their further mounting. Therefore, in order to avoid any difficulties during this process, in this article we will reveal to you all the nuances and subtleties of installing ceiling lamps.
Types of Ceiling Lights
Before you begin installing lighting fixtures, it is very important to choose a design that suits your taste preferences, one that will evenly distribute light throughout the room and will be easy to use. Today on the lighting market there are the following types of ceiling lamps.
Built-in
They are small in size, which makes it possible to fully illuminate the room without the slightest loss of space. Such devices are installed in suspended and suspended ceilings, and also, if necessary, in niches.
Due to the possibility of choosing from a wide variety of designs, recessed lamps are very easy to fit into absolutely any interior. In addition, such structures are protected from dust and moisture, so they do not require additional maintenance. Their only drawback is the impossibility of using powerful light bulbs, since there is a risk of overheating of the housing, and, accordingly, a risk of fire.
Important! Recessed lamps are an ideal option not only for general lighting of a room, but also for its functional zoning.
Spot
They are used to create local lighting, as well as direct light rays. This design involves immediately rotating the diffuser along with the lamp. Thanks to this structure of the spotlight, it becomes possible to illuminate the area of the room you need and increase the angle of illumination.
As for the installation method, such structures can be either suspended or built-in.
Invoices
They are a structure that is mounted directly on the ceiling surface. Surface-mounted lamps can have completely different designs and, depending on the model, can be used with any type of light bulb, including high-power ones.
How to correctly calculate the required number of lamps?
When choosing the power of lighting fixtures, first of all, you should proceed from the area of the room where they will be placed, its functional purpose, as well as the color scheme in the decorative finishing of surfaces. In addition, when choosing lamps, you need to focus on your taste preferences, since some people like a brighter stream of light, while others prefer dim and diffused lighting.
Important! Please note that it is not always possible to use spotlights as a non-alternative light source. If you wish, you can use wall lamps or table lamps, and reduce the power of ceiling lamps. As for the built-in options, they can be easily replaced with an LED strip.
In addition to lamps, it is very important to choose the right wire for wiring. The ideal option for installing ceiling lamps is triple stranded copper wire. The cross section in this case is absolutely not important, since the maximum current will not exceed 0.1 A.
Selection and installation of recessed luminaires
The range of built-in lighting equipment in stores today is simply off the charts in its diversity. However, when choosing one option or another, one must take into account the fact that all lighting fixtures have the same design, and the difference between them lies only in the decorative finishing of the body and the presence of any additional accessories. The design of recessed lamps consists of a body that has the shape of a ring with special places for fastening springs with ears.
Important! Depending on the type of lamps used and the power of the housing of the recessed lamps, they may have different diameters. As for the electric cartridge, it may or may not be included in the configuration.
Let us separately clarify about LED lamps, in which the diodes are mounted directly into the housing located on the printed circuit board. In such a device, the light bulb cannot be replaced, so if it burns out, be prepared for the fact that you will have to replace the entire lamp.
Preparatory work
Before installing ceiling lights, a number of preparatory work must be done, such as laying electrical wiring. The procedure is as follows:
- Decide on the required number of lamps, as well as their future location.
- Prepare all the tools and materials necessary for the job. You will need:
- Screwdriver;
- Assembly knife;
- Pliers;
- Terminal blocks;
- Electric drill;
- Distribution boxes;
- Wires of the required length.
- Install distribution boxes on all groups of lighting fixtures.
Important! Distribution boxes should be placed in easily accessible places, since during operation they may need to be accessed.
- Route the wires from the boxes to the places where the lamps themselves will be installed.
Important! To avoid damage to the wires and to prevent them from accidentally touching the metal elements of the ceiling, it is necessary to pull them through corrugated pipes.
- Install a 12V power supply.
Important! It is best to place the step-down transformer close to the first lighting fixture. This way the power supply will be accessible through the installation hole.
Installation holes in the ceiling
Before installing spotlights in a suspended ceiling or plasterboard, you must first cut holes for them. To do this you will need the following tools:
- For materials made of plasterboard or wood, it is better to choose crowns with a centering drill, as well as an electric drill. If you don't have them, you can use a regular knife for working with drywall or a jigsaw for working with wood.
- To install crystal lighting fixtures in a suspended ceiling, you will need metal hole saws and scissors.
Important! If the lamp you choose has a square shape, you need to cut the corners on the holes using a jigsaw or a handsaw with a replaceable blade.
Holes should be made in the plasterboard ceiling after its installation, but before the finishing begins. This is due to the fact that in this way you can avoid any damage to the frame. As for the slatted suspended ceiling, you need to make holes directly during its assembly.
Important! In order for the lighting fixtures to be placed evenly, before starting their installation and carrying out preparatory work, you need to draw up an accurate plan, which will indicate in detail the future location of the fixtures.
Also, when making holes for the lighting fixture, pay attention to the fact that it should have such a diameter that the lamp fits tightly into it. Even a little force is allowed during its installation. The front part of the lamp should completely cover the edges of the hole.
Installation of spotlights in a suspended ceiling
When installing spotlights yourself, you do not need to make holes in the ceiling covering. Entrust this matter to the specialists. However, in order to firmly mount the lamp, you will need to first think through and select a lighting mount that will be placed on the base ceiling. This is due to the fact that the film used for such structures is not always able to withstand the total weight of the lighting fixtures.
Important! Today, stores widely stock special acrylic mounting boxes that are mounted on the base ceiling. They are also provided with mounting rings, which are secured with a screw. Such rings can be installed using straight hangers designed to work with plasterboard sheets or perforated metal tape.
After a hole has been made on the surface of the ceiling, you need to pull the end of the wire out through. The further process depends entirely on the design of the lighting fixture you choose:
- Crystal lighting fixtures very often have a socket rigidly fixed in the body in their design. In this case, the wires of the electrical appliance should be connected to the cable through a terminal block, which must be installed directly into the hole. In order to do this, the springs must be taken to the top and lowered directly into the interceiling space. The installation of luminaires ends when the light bulbs are screwed in.
- Some luminaire models require the socket to be connected directly to the wiring housing from a pair of wires. To install such lighting fixtures, as in the previous version, you have to pull the wires through the terminal block, and then fix the lampshade immediately with the light bulb, helping yourself with the locking expansion spring. Upon completion, the light bulb is installed in the lampshade and the finished lamp is mounted in the hole.
- The easiest process for installing a lamp that is already equipped with a light bulb on the base. In such designs, the sockets have screw terminals, so all you have to do is strip the wires, then connect the lamp and install it in its place.
Important! Please note that the installation of halogen lamps should be carried out exclusively with the help of a special device, since it is not recommended to do this with bare hands.
Installation of spotlights in a wooden, plasterboard or suspended ceiling:
- After you have made all the necessary holes, you need to pull the ends of the electrical wiring through them and strip them by 5-7 millimeters.
- Insert the already stripped ends of the wires into the terminal blocks and clamp them with screws.
- Afterwards, the springs of the lamp must be compressed, carefully inserted into the hole and released. Thus, unclenching, they will rest against the ceiling and attract the lighting fixture to its outer part.
- Next, you just need to screw in the light bulb or insert it into the socket.
When I decided to renovate the hallway, one of the first questions that arose was the question of choosing the type of ceiling finish and which ceiling lights to install. Having many years of experience in using PVC stretch ceilings in the bathroom and living room, it didn’t take long to choose the type of ceiling. I decided to install a PVC stretch ceiling due to its many advantages compared to other types of ceiling finishing.
The ceiling lights took some thought. On the one hand, I wanted to install modern LED spotlights, and on the other hand, in the hallway there was a homemade set of chandeliers and sconces, made with my own hands. I liked them, and I didn’t want to part with either the chandelier or the sconce.
Ultimately, a compromise solution was found: the chandelier and sconce at the entrance to the hallway should be left hanging in their original places, and in the hallway corridor, where a single-lamp lamp hung on the wall, spotlights built into the suspended ceiling should be installed.
Before installing a suspended ceiling, it is necessary to lay electrical wiring, and in order to lay the wires, it is necessary to develop an electrical circuit based on the type and number of lamps, the type of light bulbs and their power.
Selecting the type of light bulb for a recessed ceiling light
Before purchasing a lamp built into a suspended ceiling, you need to select the type of light bulbs and determine the required number of them to ensure sufficient illumination of the room. Currently, four types of lamps are used for installation in recessed ceiling lamps: incandescent, halogen, compact (they are also called energy-saving or fluorescent lamps) and LED. Each type of light bulb has its own advantages and disadvantages; in addition, it affects the minimum distance between the installation horizon of a suspended ceiling and a fixed one, which is a determining factor in rooms with low ceilings.
Using the table below, you can easily make the optimal choice of the type of light bulbs for a suspended ceiling, based on your requirements and boundary conditions.
| Table for selecting the type of light bulbs for recessed ceiling luminaires | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Technical specifications | Lamp type | |||
| Incandescent | Halogen | Energy saving | LED | |
| Minimum distance between main and suspended ceilings*, cm | 10-12 | 5-6 | 10-12 | 5-6 |
| Supply voltage, V | 220 | 12, 220 | 220 | 12, 220 |
| Luminous flux*, Lm/W | 10-15 | 15-20 | 50-70 | 80-120 |
| Maximum power*, W | 40 | 40 | 40 | 7 |
| Color temperature, °K | 2700 | 3000 | 2700, 3300, 4200, 5100, 6400 | 2700, 3300, 4200, 5100 |
| Service life*, hour | 1000 | 4000 | 8000 | 70000 |
| Price | Very low | Low | Average | High |
Technical parameters marked * may differ up or down depending on the design of the lamp and light bulb, the power of the light bulb, the manufacturer, and the type of suspended ceiling. For example, PVC stretch ceilings are afraid of heating above 60°C, and this limits the permissible power of light bulbs in recessed luminaires.
It should be noted that halogen lamps, designed for a supply voltage of 12 V and 220 V, are very sensitive to excess supply voltage and often burn out as a result. For 12 V halogen lamps, a step-down transformer or power supply (adapter) is required, for which you must remember, in case of installing a suspended ceiling without access to the interceiling space, to provide a special place on the wall.
You can obtain more detailed information about incandescent and halogen lamps, energy-saving lamps, and LED lamps by visiting the website pages specifically dedicated to them.
Calculation of power and number of lamps
The power of the lamps depends on the size of the room (area, height and shape), the color of the walls and furniture, the purpose of the room and the preferences of the owner. Some people like bright light, while others prefer warm, diffused light of low brightness.
It is almost impossible to accurately calculate the power and number of luminaires, taking into account all factors. For an estimated calculation, you can use the illumination data presented in the table, thanks to which, taking into account the luminous flux depending on the type of light bulb, you can determine how many and what power lamps need to be installed in the room, depending on its type.
| Table for calculating the power and number of lamps depending on the type of room | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Type of room | Power required to illuminate 1m2 of room area depending on the type of lamp |
|||
| Incandescent | Halogen | Energy saving | LED | |
| Children's | 40 | 30 | 10 | 5 |
| Kitchen | 30 | 25 | 7 | 4 |
| Living room, bathroom, toilet | 25 | 20 | 6 | 3 |
| Bedroom, hallway, corridor | 20 | 15 | 5 | 2 |
| Utility rooms | 10 | 7 | 2 | 1 |
Let's look at an example of a calculation that I did for the hallway corridor. It was planned to install LED ceiling spotlights. The shape of the corridor is the letter T with areas of 2.8 m2 and 4.5 m2. The total area of the corridor was 7.3 m2. Let's calculate the required power of the lamps 7.3 × 2 = 15.6 W. Since the ceiling height was 2.75 m and the walls were planned to be painted in creme brulee color, taking into account the complex shape of the corridor, the optimal solution would be to install four ceiling spotlights with LED lamps installed in them with a small reserve, with a power of 5.5 W, supply voltage 220 V with pin socket GU5.3. The pin plinth for suspended ceilings is good because it has small dimensions, which is important when the inter-ceiling space is small in height.
Before the renovation, there were paintings by artists on the walls in the corridor, which were planned to be left in their original places after the renovation was completed. Therefore, for undistorted color rendition, white light LED lamps with a color temperature of 4000 K were chosen. If you need warm light, then you should choose a lamp with a color temperature of 2700 K.
It should be noted that it is not always advisable to use recessed ceiling lamps in rooms as the only source of lighting. A much better result can be obtained by using additional wall lamps or table lamps in the work or relaxation area. In this case, the power of the lamps in the ceiling lamps can be reduced.
If you have local lighting lamps, it is quite possible to completely abandon the lamps built into the suspended ceiling, replacing them with LED strip ceiling lighting. So, when solving the issue of lighting the premises of an apartment, there is room for creative imagination to unfold.
Selecting a wire for wiring spotlights
To lay the power supply wiring for four selected lamps with a total power of 22 W, any double-insulated electrical wire designed for wiring is suitable. A copper stranded double connecting wire, for example type PVA 2×0.75, is best suited. You don’t have to think about the cross-section of the wire cores, since the maximum current will not exceed 0.1 A.
When using 12 V halogen lamps in ceiling lamps, the wire cross-section must be calculated. One such 60 W light bulb consumes a current of 5 A. And if ten light bulbs are needed for lighting, then the current consumption will be 50 A.
Selection and installation of a recessed ceiling spotlight
The range of recessed ceiling lamps in any lighting store is huge, but they are all designed the same and differ only in the type of body finishing and additional decorations. Some models of recessed luminaires provide the ability to change the direction of the light flux within small limits.
Since I needed to illuminate the corridor, the choice fell on the simplest type of recessed lamp, which also included a base socket.
Any recessed ceiling lamp consists of a body, which is a shaped profile ring with areas for attaching two springs with ears. Depending on the type and power of the light bulbs, the lamp housings come in different diameters and may not have them, like the lamp in the photo above, or they may have an electric socket installed, usually E14.
A special place is occupied by LED ceiling spotlights, in which the LEDs are installed directly in the housing on a printed circuit board.
The light bulb in such a lamp cannot be replaced, and if it fails, you will have to change the entire lamp or look for replacement LEDs. Such lamps are expensive.
For lamps without sockets, a spring in the form of a cut ring is used to secure the light bulb in the body.
The light bulb is inserted into the lamp body and is fixed due to the fact that the spring ring, unclenching, fits into a specially made groove in the body. This lamp is suitable for installing both halogen and LED bulbs. When replacing halogen bulbs with LED bulbs or vice versa, you must remember to check what supply voltage they are designed for.
To secure a ceiling spotlight in a suspended ceiling, regardless of its type, a hole is cut in a given location on the ceiling, slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the flange of the lamp body.
The ears of the springs are brought together by hand to such an extent that they pass into the hole in the ceiling. The ears are inserted into the ceiling hole and released. Relying on the inner surface of the suspended ceiling, the lugs are pulled in until the flange stops against the lower surface of the suspended ceiling and thus fix the luminaire.
Such a simple design for mounting a ceiling lamp allows you to hide the elements of its fastening and easily remove the lamp if necessary. Simply grab the base of the lamp and pull it down.
After installing the lamp body on the suspended ceiling, a wire is threaded through it and connected to the socket using a terminal block. The socket is placed on the base of the light bulb, the light bulb is inserted into the lamp body and secured with an expansion spring.
Electrical wiring diagram
for spotlights
Before installing a suspended ceiling, after choosing the type of light bulbs, calculating their power, the number of lamps and their installation points, an electrical wiring diagram is developed. When developing an electrical circuit, it is necessary to take into account the points and methods of connecting the wires to each other and to the lamps.
Since wires were already coming out of the wall, to which the wall lamp had previously been connected, it was decided to connect the ceiling lamps to these wires. It was planned to install a suspended stretch ceiling made of PVC, and the wires came out above the level of the stretch ceiling, and, therefore, there would be no access to the connection points of the wires after installing the ceiling. Therefore, it was decided to make all wire connections in the most reliable way, twisting followed by soldering with tin-lead solder. The soldering points were marked on the electrical diagram.
When choosing a place to install lamps and chandeliers in rooms where there is a TV or computer, you must not forget that the angle of incidence of the light beam is equal to the angle of reflection. Taking into account this rule, lamps must be installed in places that exclude their reflection on the monitor screen, therefore, to select installation points for lamps, it is necessary to think about how the furniture will be arranged, in what place the TV or computer monitor will be installed.
When choosing light bulbs for a supply voltage of 220 V, installation of additional devices is not required. In the case of using light bulbs with a supply voltage of 12 V, it is necessary to provide a place for installing transformers or adapters, taking into account their overall dimensions and possible access to them for maintenance or repair.
Attention! Before connecting spotlights, to avoid electric shock, it is necessary to de-energize the electrical wiring. To do this, turn off the corresponding circuit breaker in the distribution panel and check the reliability of the shutdown using the phase indicator.
Electrical wiring installation
for connecting spotlights
After purchasing lamps, determining their installation locations, purchasing materials and equipment, you can begin installing electrical wiring.
Installation of electrical wiring for connecting lamps can be carried out at any stage of the renovation of the room, right up to the installation of suspended ceilings. But when repairing the walls in the corridor, it turned out that the light from the existing lamp was not enough. Therefore, the installation of electrical wiring had to be done first, and temporary sockets with energy-saving light bulbs were connected to the electrical wiring for lighting.
Before installing the wires, it is necessary to mark on the ceiling the installation locations of the lamps (circled in the photo) and the points where the wires are attached. To avoid sagging, the wires, depending on their rigidity, are fixed in increments of 40-50 cm.
To secure wires to the ceiling and walls, there are special dowel clamps (pictured on the left) and nail brackets (pictured on the right) of different sizes. To secure the wire with a dowel clamp on the wall, you need to drill a hole, put the dowel clamp on the wire and hammer the dowel into the hole. To secure a wire with a nail clip, you need to press the wire against the wall with it and hammer in the nail. Suitable for installing wires and cables on wood, plastic, and plaster.
Nail clips driven into a concrete plastered ceiling may fall out and remain on the PVC sheet. Therefore, this type of fastening was discarded. It turned out that I didn’t have dowel clamps at hand, so I used a simple and reliable method of securing the wires to the wall, using a clamp made from a vinyl chloride tube. A hole is drilled in the ceiling, a dowel is driven into it, and a self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel through the hole made in the clamp. Since the weight of the wire is negligible, any self-tapping screw and dowel of the smallest standard size will do.
Making a wiring harness
ceiling spotlights
Since the electrical wiring for ceiling lamps after installing a stretch ceiling will be inaccessible for maintenance and repair, all wire connections in the inter-ceiling space must be made extremely reliably. Connections are usually made using terminal blocks, such as Wago. But the most reliable type of connecting wires is soldering, and this is the method I used.
To minimize the amount of work at heights near the ceiling, a harness was made in advance, which will only need to be fixed to the ceiling and connected to household electrical wiring.
To determine the length of the harness wires and soldering points, using previously made markings on the ceiling, the distances between the wires for connection and the installation locations of the lamps were measured. The measurement results were immediately applied to the electrical circuit, which was also an electrical circuit.
The harness was made of stranded copper wire with double insulation (the core is entwined with silk thread and covered with polyvinyl chloride). For convenience, the wires were twisted together into a pigtail.
After removing the insulation from the wires, they were tinned with solder. In the second section of the corridor, the wires had to branch out. Therefore, the wires were twisted in pairs and soldered with solder. Please note that to increase the reliability of the insulation, the connection points of the wires were made offset relative to each other.
Before the connection, the wires were covered with insulating tubes, which, after soldering was completed, were moved to the connection points. To prevent displacement of the insulating tubes, they were fixed on both sides with cambrics that fit tightly on the wires. Together with the displacement of the connection points, this insulation method guaranteed the reliability of the electrical wiring. Insulating the wires could also be done using ordinary insulating tape. To avoid confusion, the cambrics were marked.
When bending the cross beam, a small section of the wire harness passed below the level of the suspended ceiling. This section of electrical wiring ran under the plaster. To ensure reliable insulation, it was additionally covered with a polyvinyl chloride tube.
After the harness was secured to the ceiling, it was time to connect it to the apartment electrical wiring. To do this, the length of the conductors of the double wire coming out of the wall was trimmed with a shift. Since the wire was old, its insulation became rough and, in order not to damage the wires, it was removed thermally using a soldering iron. The cores were stripped and tinned with solder, and insulating tubes were put on them.
All that remains is to wind the ends of the bundle onto the cores of the network wire, solder it with solder and put on the insulating tubes. Thanks to the technology of shifting the wire connections, tubes are needed practically for human safety and aesthetics. Electrical wires cannot accidentally connect to each other.
The connection point is suspended from the ceiling using a clamp with a self-tapping screw. The electrical wiring for the spotlights has been completed.
Temporary electric sockets in places where spotlights will be installed are connected using terminal blocks, the light bulbs are screwed in and the repair can continue.
LED Ceiling Light Installation
on a PVC stretch ceiling
The technology for installing ceiling lights, including LED ones, on any suspended ceiling of a rigid structure, such as plasterboard, slatted ceiling or Armstrong, is described above. When installing a spotlight on a suspended ceiling made of PVC or other plastic material, it is necessary to install additional fasteners, otherwise the ceiling will sag under the weight of the fixtures.
For these purposes, special fittings are produced. The photo shows a universal platform (ramp) for mounting spotlights. The platform has the shape of a cone, the surface of which consists of steps.
To adjust the diameter of the platform mounting hole to a specific type of ceiling lamp, use a sharp knife to cut off the excess steps from the cone.
The platform is attached to the main ceiling using perforated steel tape. A piece of tape of the required length is unrolled from the roll and cut with metal scissors.
There are two platforms with holes on the platform for fastening the tape with self-tapping screws. If you don’t have a short-length self-tapping screw, you can tighten a long one. The protruding part must be removed with side cutters.
The fittings for spotlights are screwed to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, LED bulbs are connected for testing. Everything works, you need to remove the light bulbs and you can start installing the stretch ceiling.
After the suspended ceiling is installed, the installation of lamps begins. To ensure that the PVC film does not tear and does not heat up too much, before making a hole in it for the lamp, a special plastic thermal insulating ring is glued to the place of its installation with special glue.
The film is cut out along the inner circumference of the ring with a sharp knife, the cartridge is removed and the platform is centered. The perforated tape is easily deformed, and the ceiling bends, so you can easily adjust the height and location of the platform in the horizontal plane.
Installing a ceiling light on a platform will ensure its reliable operation and will prevent the stretch ceiling from sagging and being damaged due to excessive heating when using halogen light bulbs.
In the photo you see the final result of the work on installing spotlights in a suspended ceiling.
The abundance of available information allows you to learn many useful skills at home. Having carefully studied all the technical features, you can make sure that installing spotlights in a plastic or PVC ceiling is not the most difficult task. To implement it, you just need to choose the right electrical appliances and prepare the necessary tools.
High temperatures have a detrimental effect on the condition of the plastic ceiling. Therefore, the choice of ceiling lamp must be approached carefully and thoughtfully. According to the heating criterion for PVC ceilings, it is recommended to choose those models whose power reaches a maximum of 40 W.
Incandescent lamps and their gas-discharge varieties are not suitable for this case.
There are models on sale equipped with a special metal ring, which is designed to protect the ceiling from heating. With such a ring you can install any ceiling lamps.
The tightness of the device housing is important. This is especially important when you need to install it in a room with high humidity. The ideal choice would be spot low-voltage LEDs.
Initial stage: preparing panels
To make the installation of ceiling lights easy, it is necessary to carry out preparation. First, you should make sure you have the necessary tools.
In this case it is:
- pencil;
- electric drill;
- special crown;
- sharp knife;
- abrasive material;
- workplace for drilling (machine, stool, board).
This is a structure made of long panels using special grooves for connection. It is important that the distance from the concrete panel and plastic ceiling accommodates the main part of the lamp and the entire wiring kit. This needs to be calculated at the initial stage.
To be securely attached, any lighting fixture requires a hole. It is most convenient to drill the panel on a board. To do this, a plan for attaching ceiling lamps is drawn up in advance, after which the ceiling can be partially dismantled, marked and drilled in the right places.
To do this, use a special crown for plastic or drywall. A wood drill bit will also work. After this, the unevenness is removed using an abrasive material. If you don’t have a specialized tool, you can use a regular knife. The intended hole is cut and then finished to perfection with a file. A chandelier or lamp can be hung using the same pattern.
It is important to act carefully, as not all types of plastic are pressure resistant. Damage may occur in areas of excessive pressure.
Brief installation plan for lamps
You need to do the installation yourself in this order:
- remove the base from the main part of the lamp;
- We connect electricity using terminals;
- check the device in operation;
- place the lamp in the slot and secure it with clamps;
- if necessary, install a thermal protection ring;
- we install decorative trims.
Some points are worth talking about in more detail, as they relate to electricity.
Connecting an electrical appliance to the network: features
Basically, such a ceiling lamp is connected using a 3x1.5 sq. mm wire. If the installation was carried out in rooms with high humidity, then it is recommended to lay the wire in a corrugated pipe and connect it to a distribution box, which is located outside such a room. The use of corrugation will be useful in other rooms.
All connection work must be performed with the switchboard de-energized. Low LED voltage does not guarantee your safety!
Accommodation
The distance of one spotlight from the wall should be at least 60 cm. This must be taken into account when drawing up a wiring plan, which is recommended to be completed before the ceiling frame is formed. This approach will greatly simplify the installation of lamps with your own hands.
The plan needs to take into account all the wires, spotlights, switches and transformers. It is worth making a separate routing for wires on the wall. Each lighting element must have its own separate wire.
Cables
For the above purposes, you can use a soft multicore cord, as well as a hard copper cable (ShVVP, VVG). The second option is better when using terminal blocks.
Before you begin working with electricity, it is recommended that you study electronic materials or consult a professional electrician.
Compound
There are two cable ends for connection. They need to be divided into separate wires and cleaned with a knife. For the terminals you need to clear about 7mm of wire. If you plan to twist, the longer end should be stripped. Then the wires are twisted in pairs according to color. If grounding is necessary, then this fact should not be ignored. A three-core cable is used for this. The twist needs to be tightened tightly.
After this, the lamp can be connected to the wires prepared in this way. Different colors of wires will help not to confuse those for the lamp with grounding. The other two are connected in any order to the two ends of the lamp.
Connection diagram
To maintain the operation of the lamps when one of them burns out, it is necessary to use a parallel connection scheme. Connection using terminals is considered quite reliable, but requires regular checking. The bolts need to be tightened periodically to avoid loose contact and charring. This can cause the wire to fall out and short out, which in turn can cause a fire.
Regular checks can be avoided by using copper clamping sleeves. After the connection is completed, they are insulated with electrical tape or a special heat-shrinkable tube. This method of attaching lighting fixtures to the ceiling is considered the safest.
After making the electrical connection, it is necessary to securely fix the lamp in its socket. It has special spring-loaded legs. They should be compressed and in this state placed in the hole in the panel. After this, you can release the structure, and it will automatically lock by straightening the legs.
Additional information about the specifics of luminaires
To gain complete knowledge of how to install ceiling lights yourself, it is worth studying some of the nuances of this process.
The choice of installation methods will depend on the type of light source and installation location. Since spotlights are used not only for the ceiling, the room should be divided into zones. Installation may be required on wall panels or furniture elements.
It is necessary to divide light sources into main and auxiliary. The main lamp should be more powerful, so you should choose a modification equipped with the thermal protector described above.
The following factors influence installation features:
- does the lamp have a rotating function?
- outer diameter of the lamp;
- installation depth declared by the manufacturer.
The diameter and depth of the pre-formed landing holes will depend on these features.
Self-installation of lamps in ceiling panels is simple. You just need to strictly adhere to the rules, especially when it comes to working with electrical wiring.
The installation of the lamp depends on the type of ceiling and the lighting fixture itself, the installation of which is planned. Consider a recessed lamp. There are the following types:
- Turning
- Fixed
Ceilings are divided into:
- Concrete
- Suspended ceilings (stretch, plasterboard, slatted, etc.)
Also, the installation principle of a recessed lamp and the installation of a suspended ceiling depend on the type of lamps used. Each lamp assumes a certain depth of immersion in the ceiling (stretch, plasterboard, etc.):
- Halogen - from 60 mm insert.
- Incandescent lamp - from 100-120 mm. Now these lamps are considered obsolete and are practically not used in spot lighting.
- Luminescent - from 80 mm insert.
- LED lamp – from 20 mm. Sometimes it is useful to choose LED recessed ceiling lights, but it is important to consider the functions that it will implement. The power of such an LED lamp is about 1W - it is not suitable for general lighting.
Without changing the depth of the insert, apartment owners have the opportunity to replace the original lamp and install another one, for example, a halogen to an LED lamp, if desired.
How to install a recessed light
To install, you first need to make a plan:
- Calculate the level of lighting in the room (the number of lamps multiplied by the power of the lamp and divided by 20, the answer is the number of square meters that the product can illuminate)
- Take into account all light sources in the room (chandelier, sconces, floor lamps, etc.)
- Outline the location of lighting elements in the ceiling (shaped, linear, starry sky, spot, etc.)
- Buy the lamp itself
IMPORTANT: Do not cut a hole in the ceiling before purchasing the lamp itself - the cut hole may not coincide with that indicated in the specifications of the model. Ideally, the installation of suspended ceilings and lighting is carried out parallel to each other.
Wiring
Installation and connection of wires is an integral part of the installation. Required:
- Outline a drawing of the circuit, where the number of lamps, the transformer (if any), and the leads to the switch are noted.
- Select the wire. It is important to find an insulated, moisture-proof wire. ShVVP or VVG 3x1.5 are recommended, since they are used primarily for connection and can withstand air humidity up to 98% and temperatures up to 35 degrees. In our climate these are optimal indicators. These wires are also suitable for installation in the bathroom, as they can withstand being in rooms with high humidity.
- Place the power supply network under the ceiling (stretch, plasterboard, etc.).
Installation of a recessed lamp in the ceiling (stretch, plasterboard)
Installation of recessed luminaires is not carried out in a concrete stream. This is explained by the impossibility of fixing it inside the concrete ceiling - the product falls out.
Such lighting elements are built into suspended ceilings. In this article we will reveal the features of installation in suspended and plasterboard ceilings.
Stretch ceiling. Most often, it is assumed that a textile fabric is used, which is stretched with some indentation from the concrete ceiling. In suspended ceilings, an installation ring must be inserted to secure the canvas and the lamp itself. In linen stretch ceilings, lamps must be fixed with an installation ring during installation to avoid damage to the material.
The ring itself is attached to a metal “leg” hidden under the suspended ceiling, and the recessed lamp is attached to the ring with clothespins. Before this, the wiring is connected.
Plasterboard ceiling. Unlike the tension analogue, it does not require the installation of a fixation ring. It is enough to cut a hole in the ceiling corresponding to the diameter of the insert. Otherwise, the installation principle is not much different from the situation with a suspended ceiling:
- A hole is cut in the ceiling strictly according to the diameter of the lamp insert (written in the technical characteristics of the product)
- Wires are connected
- The lamp clings to the ceiling with clothespins
Where are recessed ceiling lights used?
You can use recessed ceiling lamps in any room of the apartment, for example:
In the bedroom or living room for zoning the room. Thanks to spot lighting, you can visually divide the room into zones (working, relaxing, etc.).
In the kitchen, models with shallow recesses are used to illuminate the work area (where cooking is done).
In the bathroom, spot lighting can be used as the main one, if you correctly calculate the required level of light (the formula is proposed above). However, in the bathtub it is necessary to take into account the degree of dust and moisture protection of the IP lamp (a level of at least 44 is required).
In general, recessed lamps are used in any room - the location depends only on the desire and imagination of the apartment owner.
A large selection of lamps, chandeliers and other lighting fixtures for interior lighting can be found on the BasicDecor store website. It has a large assortment and allows customers to choose exactly what they need.
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