Raspberries are a delicious berry that ripens in early summer. Few people can pass by this fragrant fruit. It is not only tasty, but also very useful for treating colds. If you decide to plant a red-pink beauty on your site, you need to know the timing and rules for planting raspberries in the fall.
When is it better to plant raspberries - in autumn or spring, in which month
It is believed that autumn is the most favorable time for planting raspberries. At this time, it will take root well, straighten the roots and grow new ones. Until the first frost occurs, it will be saturated with mineral fertilizers from the soil and will overwinter well. And in the spring, such seedlings will grow faster, waking up on a par with long-livers, and may even begin to bear fruit (if it is a remontant variety).
If you plant raspberries in the spring and not in the fall, the plant takes a long time to take root. Naturally, there is no talk of any harvest this year. Therefore, autumn is the best period for rooting young seedlings.
Another important question that requires an answer: when is it better to plant raspberries in the fall, and in what month? Accepted You can plant raspberries in the fall in September; this is the most suitable time for the procedure.
In different regions, the timing of planting raspberries in the fall may, of course, vary. So, in the south of Russia, shrubs can be planted until the end of October, but in the middle zone (Moscow region) it is advisable to do so before the end of September. But the main condition is that there are still 20-30 days before the first frost.
If you plant raspberries later than this time, the sprouts may not have time to gain a foothold inside the soil. The result will be either complete freezing of the seedling, or a difficult wintering, and then a long struggle with diseases and weakness of the seedling. Therefore, it is recommended to meet the recommended deadlines and plant raspberries in a new place in the fall, while the outside temperature remains around +10...+15 degrees.
The main guideline for starting planting work is the complete ripening of the seedling, when replacement buds appear on it, located on the root collar of the seedling. If the variety is early, then such eyes will appear in early September. In the case of a late variety, the buds will appear at the end of September.
Video: planting raspberry seedlings in autumn
Planting dates in different regions
Optimal dates for planting raspberries in the fall in the middle zone (in the Moscow region) and in the zone of risky farming (Volga region)- With September and until October. Raspberries can be planted in these regions in the spring, but autumn planting makes the plant much stronger and more resilient.
Planting raspberries in autumn in Siberia and the Urals you need to have time to complete it before the first days of September, but you should be guided by the weather. If the end of summer turns out to be cold, rainy, and windy, then it is advisable not to plant raspberry seedlings in the Urals and Siberia at all, leaving this event for the spring. The result of rooting in the fall will be death due to freezing or the appearance of a fungal disease due to high air humidity.
Plant raspberries in autumn in the northern regions It is recommended that the rows of beds be located from north to south. With this placement, the plantings will receive the maximum amount of sunlight during the day. This has a positive effect on the ripening of the crop and the taste of the berries.
Advantages and disadvantages of planting in autumn
The technique for planting a young raspberry seedling is the same in both spring and autumn.
The following are the advantages of planting raspberries in the fall:
- The weather in autumn is no longer hot, air humidity is increased, at night there are slight drops in temperature. All these conditions have a beneficial effect on the speed at which transplanted plants produce young roots. In spring, on the contrary, air temperatures can change sharply from moderately warm to hot days. Such changes negatively affect the young seedling.
- In the autumn, the internal juices of the plant are concentrated inside the cuttings. Raspberries accumulate all the nutrients absorbed from the transplanted soil inside the stem. In spring, everything happens the other way around. The shrub spends all its internal forces on the growth of shoots, so after planting it is very difficult for it to maintain both the root system and reproduce fresh leaves.
- Planting material is sold at an affordable price in large quantities, so you can choose the variety you want. In addition, plants are often sold with leaves and sometimes with berries, which you can see, touch and even taste. Based on the sample, it is possible to determine the quality and external characteristics of the seedlings.
- Simple care for young raspberries after planting in the fall. The weather creates ideal conditions for excellent survival of seedlings. Almost 100% rooting after planting in the fall.
Flaws
The only disadvantage of planting raspberries in the fall in September-October is the need to monitor the weather, namely to track the moments when the temperature drops. The main thing is to correctly determine the timing of the most ideal time for planting a young raspberry seedling.
Thus, the need to plant young seedlings in the autumn is obvious. At this point, after planting, the raspberry seedlings will take root well, nourish themselves and overwinter well. Next spring you can already expect the appearance of the first fruits with a fragrant smell.
How to plant raspberries in the fall - features and step-by-step instructions
Surely any novice gardener who has decided to take up this business is interested in how to properly plant raspberries in the fall. This is not difficult to do, especially if you follow these step-by-step instructions.
What should a seedling be like?
The selection of raspberry seedlings for planting in the fall is made not by the appearance of the stem, but by the internal state of the root system. It should be well developed, without visible damage or putrefactive odor.
Only after you have verified the quality of the root system, which has a large number of dormant basal buds, can you turn your attention to the above-ground part. The stems should be woody in color, about 0.5-1 cm in diameter.
If the seedling is tall, then before planting it is cut to a level of 20-25 cm from the base. This is necessary so that it draws less nutrients onto itself, giving the root system strength for rooting.
Note! If you want to plant or transplant a raspberry bush to a new place(and not buy and plant from scratch), then this will help you.
Landing location
It is recommended to choose a sunny place for growing raspberries, because the berries require a lot of sunlight to ripen, but it is better that the bush is not exposed to scorching rays all the time. Of course, the plant can grow in partial shade, but then you won’t even have to dream of large yields, despite all the care and abundance of fertilizing.
Attention! Raspberries are a fairly unpretentious creature; they can grow in any area. But if you want a larger harvest and rich taste of sweet berries, then before planting raspberries, you should pay attention to choosing a place for planting and preparing the soil.
In addition, the site must be protected from drafts and strong winds. Sometimes in the spring there can be strong hurricanes that knock off the delicate foliage and spoil the ovaries of the berries. Therefore, windy weather should also be taken into account.
What kind of soil is needed
The soil for planting raspberries must be fertile. When there are few nutrients in the soil, the leaves of the plant lose their rich hue, becoming yellow with clearly defined veins.
The ideal soil for planting raspberries is loamy and sandy loam soil.
Note! It is important that the soil is well drained and also allows moisture to pass to the roots without stagnating near the base.
Once the landing site has been selected, the area is prepared. To prepare the soil for planting raspberries, you must perform the following steps:
- Dig up.
- Remove all kinds of weeds and numerous stones from it.
- At the end of the procedure, all dug up pieces of earth must be broken up.
- Remove any remaining roots from previous plants.
- Completely level the ground.
After preparing the soil, you can proceed directly to the planting procedure.
Planting methods
Planting young annual raspberry seedlings is carried out in several ways:
- bush;
- trench
Bush method
When following the method of rooting seedlings using the bush method, you should not resort to preparing (fertilizing) the soil in advance. When planting, place the raspberry seedling correctly in the ground according to the following scheme:
- 2 weeks before the start of work in the garden, a hole is prepared. The depth of the hole for planting raspberries should not exceed 30-40 cm, and the diameter should not exceed 30-40 cm.
- Next, compost or humus up to 4-5 kg is placed in the planting hole. Additionally, when planting, mineral fertilizers are applied, consisting of potassium sulfate (10 grams) or wood ash (2 cups), superphosphate (15-20 grams).
- Half of the excavated soil is mixed with fertilizers and poured into the hole, filling it approximately halfway.
- Afterwards the seedling is placed in a hole. Its roots should be straightened, spreading them in different directions from the center of the recess.
- Raspberries should be planted at such a depth that the root neck is no more than 2-3 cm below ground level.
- As the soil is filled in, the bush is slightly shaken so that the soil penetrates into all the hollow spaces and fills everything with itself.
Raspberry bush planting scheme:
Trench method
The second method of planting raspberries is the trench (tape) method. Not many people know it because in most cases they use the bush planting method. If we compare both procedures, then planting in a trench is a more labor-intensive and time-consuming method.
When using the trench method, a significant advantage is the confidence that the entire raspberry plant will receive an even amount of nutrients. This procedure will increase the growth of green shoots and the yield of bushes.
Dimensions of the trench for raspberries: width - 40 cm, depth - 40 cm, distance between seedlings 40-70 cm.
If it is required that raspberries do not allow root seedlings to spread throughout the entire territory of the site, then the dug hole in the ground is lined with slate on all sides. It prevents roots from growing in different directions, blocking their movement.
A layer of wood is poured onto the bottom of the trench, which has already begun to rot, turning into dust. On top of them is placed a layer of humus (6-8 kg per 1 square meter), fallen leaves or cow dung (this can be laid out in layers individually or by mixing everything in one batch).
In addition, to fertilize raspberries when planting, you need to add:
- Potassium sulfate – 40 grams per 1 sq. meter or
- Wood ash – 1 can or 0.5 kg.
- Superphosphate (granulated) – 40 grams per 1 sq. meter.
Cover everything on top with black soil or garden soil.. Such a layer of fertilizers when planting raspberries guarantees that the bushes receive nutrients for a sufficiently long period.
Video: proper planting of raspberries in autumn
Care after planting in autumn
After the seedling is buried in the ground, it is recommended to lightly compact the soil. This is necessary so that there are no hollow depressions left inside the soil. Moisture can stagnate in them, which negatively affects the root system of the plant.
If there is a large amount of water constantly at the roots, a fungal disease may join them or they will begin to rot. Any outcome adversely affects the planted seedling.
Further care for young raspberries after planting in the fall should be constant. It is watered periodically, focusing on the need for moisture, when the soil dries out.
Also, as a form of care, a raspberry seedling after planting in the fall is prepared for wintering. At the first signs of a decrease in temperature, it is recommended to mulch the root area or cover it with humus or sawdust.
Carefully! Fallen leaves are not the best option for mulching, as they may contain various pests that tend to feed on the sap of fruit plants. In addition, fungal diseases develop well in it.
A young plant often suffers from severe frosts, so experienced gardeners They make a frame near the raspberry tree and stretch the film over it. This method is especially suitable for the bush method. In this case, each plant will be carefully packed in plastic wrap.
The erected frame forms the necessary space in which there is enough oxygen for the plant to overwinter normally. In spring, the insulation is removed at the first rays of sunlight, so as not to provoke the accumulation of condensation.
Possible mistakes when planting raspberries in the fall
Any gardener dreams of getting large harvests with tasty large fruits from his raspberry garden. But in most cases, typical mistakes are made that do not allow you to achieve the desired result:
- Landing too early. Early rooting allows the plant to sprout green shoots. Such increased activity during the first frost can provoke a decrease in the plant’s immunity.
- Bushes are planted in the shade. The shrub does not have enough sunlight to ripen the berries, but to form them. Therefore, the plant begins to reach for the sun, its shoots become thin, brittle and do not have time to ripen in time for retirement. This situation leads to freezing of part of the fruit buds at the ends of the shoots.
- Placing seedlings on clay soil, which is characterized by stagnant moisture.
- During planting, the seedling was slightly pruned. Ground sprouts will begin to pull nutrients onto themselves. This prevents the plant's root system from firmly rooting itself in the ground.
- Poor quality planting material: too old, with overdried roots, etc., etc.. Young seedlings of one year old should be selected. Their root system should be at least 10-15 cm, and the stem should be quite strong. If you buy seedlings at spontaneous markets, then you should wrap the roots with a damp cloth so that they do not dry out. Otherwise, it will be difficult to return them to normal.
Video: planting raspberries without mistakes
Thus, raspberry is not such a demanding shrub, although it cannot be called completely unpretentious either. But to get the berries with rich flavor and large size, it is recommended to try a little. Planting raspberries in the fall is not difficult. The main thing is to act according to the rules: to properly prepare the bed for raspberries and choose a high-quality seedling. Knowing all the features and secrets of planting raspberries, you will be able to get an amazing harvest in the future.
Video: how to plant raspberries in the fall
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Raspberries are a delicate berry with a pleasant taste and a rich vitamin composition. Raspberries can be eaten fresh, added to various types of baked goods, ground with sugar, frozen, made into jam, etc. Raspberry bushes are found in many gardens and plots. To grow a crop that produces many fruits, you should learn the nuances of planting and care.
When to plant raspberries: spring or autumn?
Planting dates (spring or autumn) depend on the climatic conditions of the region:
- On South Spring is hot, dry, and passes quickly. In the southern regions, it is better to plant raspberries in the autumn: the second half of September to the beginning of October. Before the onset of severe cold, the seedlings will have time to take root and grow quickly in the spring.
- In the northern regions The spring is long and wet – excellent conditions are created for the rooting of seedlings. If winters are cold, with severe frosts, when planted in the fall, raspberry seedlings often die from the cold.
- In the middle zone Raspberries can be planted both in spring and autumn. However, it has been experimentally verified that autumn planting is more successful.
How to plant raspberry bushes in spring, watch the video:
This video will tell you how to plant raspberry bushes in the fall:
Where to plant raspberries
Site selection
To be successful, it requires a well-lit area with protection from strong winds. When planted in the shade, the shoots will begin to reach towards the light, and the harvest will be weak.
Predecessors and neighbors
Proximity to strawberries, fruit trees, and potatoes is not recommended - they are susceptible to the same diseases. You can place a raspberry garden in an area where vegetables, gooseberry or currant bushes used to grow.
Location
It is preferable to place the beds in the direction from north to south: this way the bushes will receive more sunlight. Raspberries are often planted near or along the fence.
The soil
The soil requires fertile, drained soil. Light loams are suitable. It can be grown on sandy soils, but will need to be fed with organic matter at least once a season.
How to choose raspberry seedlings for planting
For planting, choose annual seedlings about 1 cm thick with developed fibrous roots. They must be healthy (without any growths, damage to the root or stem).
How to plant raspberry bushes photo and description
Raspberries are planted using the trench or hole method.
It is necessary to prepare the site in advance. In the fall, this is done 1.5 months before planting. In the spring, start preparing a couple of weeks before planting.
Planting in holes
- Add humus or peat soil to clay or sandy soil for digging; dilute heavy loams a little with sand (1 bucket per 1 m²).
- Dig planting holes measuring 50x40x40. Mix the soil removed from the planting hole with organic matter and fill it back.
- If there has been no preliminary preparation of the soil, you should dig planting holes and fill them with a mixture of the following composition: 10 kg of humus or compost, 400 g of wood ash, 100 g of superphosphate granules, 50 g of potassium sulfate.
Distance between raspberry seedlings and rows when planting: Keep a distance between individual plants of 70-100 cm, between rows - 1.5 m. This is a pit (bush) planting method, which is preferably used for autumn planting.
- During spring raspberries, it is imperative to water the seedlings to thoroughly moisten the soil in the hole. Humidity is maintained until signs of active growth of shoots and leaves appear, then watered once a week.
- Watering is not necessary in the fall, especially if wet weather is expected.
If possible, after watering, mulch the ground around the raspberry bush: this will preserve moisture, reduce the amount of watering, improve the condition of the soil, its breathability and the activity of beneficial microorganisms.
Landing in a trench
You can plant raspberries using the trench method:
- Dig a trench 40-45 cm deep and 50-60 cm wide.
- Place the seedlings at a distance of 40 cm from each other.
- Maintain an interval of 1.5 m between furrows.
- If the top layer of soil is fertile, fill the trench with it, adding a small amount of ash. Feed the depleted soil with organic or mineral fertilizers, as described above.
- It is not recommended to add nitrogen fertilizers.
Place the seedling in a furrow or hole, sprinkle it with a little soil, water it generously and add the rest of the soil. The root collar should be flush with the soil surface. Compact the soil a little and mulch the tree trunk circle.
Planting raspberries in two rows
Raspberries can be planted in double rows. The method has advantages: more intensive planting of bushes, saving space and making it easier to care for raspberries.
- Paired rows are placed at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other.
- Seedlings are planted in rows at a distance of 40 cm.
- The wide row spacing between paired rows is 1.5-2 m, depending on the height of the variety.
Planting raspberries in summer
Raspberries can be planted in the summer in June, before the onset of hot weather, or when the main heat begins to recede, in the second half of August. By this time, the raspberry tree has already borne fruit and can be disturbed a little to obtain planting material. It is better if you completely dig up and divide the bushes, because the disturbed bushes in the old place will still hurt and will not remain healthy along with the main planting.
Dig up the required amount of planting material, divide it into parts with 2-3 growing points and plant using any of the methods you like described above. Summer raspberry plantings will need to be well watered for the bushes to take root. This method has the advantage: earlier planting will ensure better rooting and painless wintering, which is important for regions with harsh winters.
How to care for raspberries in the garden
How to water
In spring and summer only during severe drought, generously once a week. More intensive watering is required before flowering, as well as during the period of fruit formation and ripening. Pre-winter watering is also important - at this time the process of establishing growth points takes place and the greater the moisture saturation, the more successfully the plant will overwinter. When watering, the soil should be wet by 30-40 cm. Drip irrigation is preferred.
Loosen the soil occasionally and remove weeds regularly.
How to trim raspberries
Pruning is an important part of care.
- The shoots are biennial: in the first year they develop, in the second they become lignified, bear fruit and die. Such shoots must be cut to the ground after fruiting or next spring.
- Also cut out thin, damaged stems.
- Leave no more than 7 strong shoots in one bush.
- In early spring, prune the stems, leaving their height at about 1.5 m - this is the middle part that produces the best fruits (the spring pruning procedure can be combined with the autumn pruning of old branches). Prune to a strong bud.
How to properly prune raspberries in the fall, watch the video:
How to prune remontant raspberries in the fall, watch the video:
Do not spare the weak branches of remontant raspberries. Yes, it can produce a spring harvest, but it will be meager and the berries will be crushed. It is much better to harvest not two harvests (early and late), but one, in the autumn.
How to tie raspberries
Tall bushes should. Place posts about 1.5 m high between the rows, stretch galvanized wire at a height of 1 m above the ground and tie the shoots to it - this is a trellis garter. Next year it is recommended to add the bottom (30 cm above the soil level) and the top row (0.5 m above the average). This way the shoots will not break off under the weight of the fruit, and the harvesting process will be simplified.
Fan garter: drive 2 pegs between the bushes, tie up part of the shoots of one bush and part of the shoots of another at different heights, bending them in an arched manner.
How and when to feed raspberries
If the shoots grow poorly, in early April-early May, add a bucket of “talkers” under each bush (1 shovel of cow manure, 5 g of saltpeter or urea per bucket of water).
Preparing raspberries for winter
In the fall it is necessary to begin preparations for. Remove and burn the mulch that has spent the entire season under the bush - most likely pests have settled in it. Dig the soil, going 8-10 cm deep. Perform pruning: cut out all old shoots, trim the tops to a height of 1.5 m.
Wintering in the Urals and Siberia
After the above steps, proceed to cover. Bend the stems as low as possible to the ground, secure them to the bottom row of the trellis. In winter, raspberry bushes should be covered with snow. Throw it on top yourself if there is not enough snow cover. In snowless winters, cover with spruce branches.
Raspberry diseases and pests
If agricultural practices are followed and proper care is taken, diseases and pests are not dangerous.
Possible diseases:
- Root cancer - swelling appears on the roots, the berries lose their pleasant taste, the shoots become bent, turn yellow, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. It is impossible to cure the plant. Dig up and burn diseased plants. It is not recommended to plant anything in this area for about 2 years.
- Rust - the shoots become covered with dark ulcers, the leaves dry out and fall off. At the initial stages, treat the bushes with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. In advanced cases, the bushes will have to be disposed of.
- Chlorosis is a viral disease carried by aphids. This also happens when watering with cold water, from waterlogging of the soil, lack of nutrients, or when the soil has an increased alkaline reaction. The leaves become smaller, deformed, shoots do not develop, and the berries dry out. Find out the specific cause and eliminate it.
- Anthracnose - the berries dry out, gray spots with a white edge appear on the leaves. It is necessary to remove the affected areas and treat the bushes with a special preparation (nitrafen).
Pests are: raspberry beetle, raspberry stem fly, spider mite. It is necessary to treat with an insecticide.
Types and varieties of raspberries
There are varieties of raspberries:
- Garden or traditional - the hardiest type with a regular harvest, produces about 4 kg of berries from one bush. Pay attention to the Malakhovka variety.
- Remontatnaya - produces the largest number of berries. Fruits twice per season.
- Large-fruited - distinguished by larger fruit sizes compared to other varieties. The Izobilnaya variety is noteworthy.
- Yellow-fruited or yellow - breeders have bred many tasty berries with a yellow color and record sizes. The most interesting variety is the Yellow Giant.
- Aronia or black raspberries - do not confuse them with blackberries. Varieties with blue-black colored berries. A very exotic berry. The best varieties: Ugolek, Litach, Bristol, Boysenberry, New Logan.
- Standard raspberry or raspberry tree are powerful plants that do not require staking. Varieties: Skazka, Tarusa, Krepysh, Galaxy.
Remontat varieties: Apricot, Mulatto, Orange Miracle, Diamond.
Early ripening varieties: Golden Giant, Cascade, Vega, Cumberland, Glen Ampl.
Late ripening varieties: Mirage, Rubin, Stolichnaya.
Hi all! Planting raspberries is quite a responsible undertaking. With the right choice of site and planting scheme, you can achieve abundant fruiting of the bushes.
To successfully plant raspberries, you will need:
- bayonet shovel;
- humus;
- watering can;
- secateurs
Preparatory stage
The place where raspberries are planted should be open, well lit - then the berries will be large, juicy and fragrant, provided that they are regularly watered abundantly. You should not plant raspberries in lowlands or in places where groundwater rises close to the surface - the bushes will become sick and produce a meager harvest.
Try to avoid the proximity of raspberries to plantings of potatoes, tomatoes, and strawberries, since these plants have common pests and diseases with raspberries. You should not plant raspberries next to currants and sea buckthorn - their root systems are at the same depth and the plants will interfere with each other, which will have a bad effect on the harvest. Cherry has a particularly bad effect on raspberries - raspberry plantings located at a distance of less than 4 meters will be depressed, grow poorly and will not bear berries.
Raspberries, regardless of the variety, prefer loose, fertile soil, and to improve growth, you can add a glass of lime or a liter jar of wood ash under each bush.
In regions with a warm climate, it is recommended to plant raspberries in the fall, in mid-September, so that the seedling has time to take root well three weeks before the onset of frost. In places with a harsher climate, it is better to plant raspberries in the spring to avoid damage from frost. The timing of planting seedlings depends not only on the climate, but also on the characteristics of the variety - some varieties withstand drought better due to their powerful root system, others are more resistant to frost.
You should also pay attention to the growing season of the planted variety.
The choice of planting material depends on the season:
- in spring, seedlings are herbaceous green shoots at least 20 cm high, which have already developed white roots;
- in the summer, you can plant varietal plants grown in a container - they will have time to take root and prepare for wintering;
- For autumn planting, mature annual shoots are suitable, in which a fibrous root system has formed and replacement buds have appeared on the root collar.
Instructions for planting raspberries
The selected area is cleared of debris and weeds. If you decide to plant raspberries using the bush method, markings should be made. The raspberry planting scheme is as follows: holes for seedlings should be located in increments of 120 cm in one row and with a gap of 150 - 170 cm between rows. This will allow the bushes to develop properly, and after 3 - 4 years the seedling will turn into a lush bush. A couple of hours before planting, dip the seedlings with their roots in a container of water so that they are well saturated with moisture. It is advisable to add “Kornevin” or a similar product to the water. But you cannot keep the roots in water for more than two hours, otherwise the roots will begin to lose potassium and then will not take root well.
A hole about 40 cm wide and high is dug under the seedling.
Add a bucket of humus to the removed soil and mix well.
A layer of prepared soil mixture is poured onto the bottom of the hole; the thickness of the layer should be 10 - 15 cm.
Next, we lower the seedling into the hole, having first straightened the roots of the plant. It is important that the replacement bud, which is located at the base of the trunk, ends up 3 - 4 cm below ground level. If you bury it too deeply, the plant may rot, and if you plant the seedling too high, it will freeze in winter.
Then the root system in the hole is covered with soil mixture. Having covered the roots with the prepared soil, pour the hole generously with water from a watering can, then pour a thick layer of the same soil mixture.
Compact the soil with your hands so that it rests against the roots without voids - in this case, the plant will adapt faster to the new place, will not get sick and will grow in the spring.
The second watering of raspberries planted in autumn is carried out a week after planting - one bucket of water per bush is enough. Caring for raspberries involves cutting out dry branches in the spring and removing excess growth. Watering is required only on hot days.
That's all, we are waiting for the harvest!
We must not forget that raspberries not only grow quickly at the planting site, but also tend to escape to neighboring areas. How to plant raspberries so as not to waste time uprooting roots and cutting out unnecessary shoots among other cultivated plants?
In this case, a ditch is dug, the bottom and walls of which are lined with geotextiles that prevent the penetration of roots. The soil, enriched with humus, is returned to the trench, and then, using standard technology, seedlings are planted in one row in increments of 60 - 80 cm. Plants planted in a row require support so that they do not bend from the wind, for which stakes are driven in on both sides of the row and a cord is pulled.
Note! Raspberries are self-pollinating plants, but cross-pollination by bees and other insects can double the yield. Therefore, it is recommended to plant 2 - 3 varieties at once, blooming at the same time.
Video on the topic “how to plant raspberries correctly”:
How to grow large raspberries
In spring, shorten last year's stems by a third of their entire growth. Then trim down to the ground all the dead branches that already produced a harvest last year. In summer, destroy excess young shoots at the base of the bush and root suckers that appear between the bushes if they are not needed for propagation. Make supports or garters for flexible raspberry branches, otherwise they will bend to the ground due to the weight of the berries and leaves. Allow the young shoots of the current year to grow upward freely.
And in the fall, after collecting the fruits, tie them in place of the removed ones.
Raspberries require a lot of fertilizer, as their strong growth constantly depletes the soil. Therefore, every autumn after digging, “cover” the soil with humus 10 cm high and leave it on the surface until next summer. Sometimes you can also fertilize in the spring, using phosphorus and potassium fertilizers; they should be planted to a depth of 10–12 cm. Use nitrogen-containing fertilizers - slurry, bird droppings - only in the spring. In summer, they cause increased growth of shoots, which then do not ripen and do not survive wintering well. When filling berries, also use phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Water the raspberry plot generously: when ovaries form, every 7–10 days.
At the end of August, stop watering.
For the winter, all shoots need to be bent and pinned as close to the ground as possible. Try to bend it as low as possible so that the snow covers the entire plant. And remember: raspberries can be grown in one place for no more than 10 years, because after that the yields drop sharply.
Characteristics, what factors influence it, the amount and ratio of fertilizers applied - a safe ratio of organics and mineral components, nuances of soil preparation during planting and other important details that you need to know.
Before landing: which one is better, which one is suitable?
The key to productivity, aroma, intensity of color and taste of berries, disease resistance, winter hardiness, what soil is best for raspberries?
Promising ones include light loamy and sandy loam, well-drained, loose and light, rich in organic matter and microelements, humus, fertile for the development of beneficial microorganisms.
Sandy ones are not so bad due to their lightness and friability, good access to oxygen. As a disadvantage, they do not retain moisture well; due to the low saturation of microelements, they require frequent fertilizing. They need to be added more, and in several stages.
Heavy clayey soils are saturated with organic and inorganic substances, but are problematic due to the large amount of water that displaces oxygen. The root system of plants suffocates when overwatered and reacts with rotting and disease. On such soils there is low survival rate of seedlings, lower yields, and frequent falls.
pH problem
What soil acidity is considered optimal for raspberries? As a rule, pH 5.8 - 6.2 is the most favorable indicator. With increased bioavailability of macro- and microelements, their physicochemical composition deteriorates due to increased solubility of toxic compounds. Thus, an excess of aluminum and hydrogen makes phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium less available. In turn, the addition of these microelements displaces hydrogen, stabilizes the salt balance, increasing the physical and chemical properties of the soil for raspberries and not only.
It would be a great exaggeration to say that raspberries do not survive at all in acidic soil conditions for raspberries. The only thing she doesn’t like is the low content of potassium and sodium: the microelement composition of such soil is poor.
- Before any large-scale planting work, for example, the soil reaction is checked - fortunately, pH testers and other instruments, laboratories and methods such as litmus tests are sufficient. If your fears are confirmed, alkalization work is carried out.
- Adding wood ash for digging to a depth of at least 25-30 cm, for 2 shovels in the amount of 150-200 g per 1 m/2.
- Chalk is also added in an amount of up to 500 g/m2, dolomite flour containing calcium and magnesium in an amount from 300 kg/ha to 8-10 t/ha, depending on the reaction.
- Reducing the dose of nitrogen-containing fertilizers, eliminating fresh manure, bird droppings, nitroamphoska, increasing the proportion of NPK.
- Sufficient air access and ventilation have a beneficial effect.
What affects acidity?
Ph value is not constant.
What affects soil acidity? Many factors - from calcium nitrate to mulch. Don't believe me?
- The main factors, in addition to natural climatic factors, are the activity of bacteria that produce acid and gas (ammonia) during the breakdown of proteins, cellulose, and sugars.
- Amount and ratio of nitrogen and mineral fertilizing. The same nitroammaphoska, applied in uncontrolled quantities, can cause a lot of harm, just like such a harmless agricultural practice as mulching.
- The use of chemicals—to combat diseases and pests, fertilizers, and herbicides—also influences this.
However, let's return to our bacteria. When fresh manure is added, the reaction of breaking down sugars and protein begins, which means the release of acid. Their effects are neutralized by other bacteria, so-called natural deoxidizers. If the natural balance is disturbed, and the disturbance occurs in any cultural area, compensation does not occur due to the death of the latter and the growth of pathogenic flora.
The same representatives of vermiculture - worms that improve the agricultural background - cannot withstand competition with bacteria and die. This is the very first alarm bell indicating a violation of agricultural safety rules.
As for herbicides and chemicals, while killing pathogenic bacteria and weeds, they also kill beneficial bacteria - saprphytes. The earth becomes sterile in the literal sense of the word as with the Mittlider method - this is at best. At worst, it is colonized by pathogenic microorganisms, which leads to diseases, winter falls, and reduced yields.
Acidity and fertilizers: who wins
An axiom for most gardeners: in an environment acidified above the norm, plants experience nitrogen deficiency. Is this really true? Let's try to prove it.
Without going into the details of biochemistry, nitrogen-fixing bacteria that absorb gas from the soil and transfer it to plants are active only in a slightly acidic reaction. In a strongly acidic or strongly alkaline reaction they die. This is the first one.
Further, as is known, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are presented in two forms - nitrate and ammonia. In the latter, nitrogen is more bioavailable and is more easily absorbed by plants and soil. The first ones are quickly washed out and absorbed more slowly. In this regard, ammonium (ammonia) forms are used for alkaline ones, and nitrate fertilizers for acidic ones.
When using ammonia fertilizers - ammonium sulfate, ammonium carbonate - urea, which are considered less suitable than the same saltpeter, increase the proportion of calcium, sodium and magnesium, add dolomite flour and chalk if necessary.
When adding nitrates (nitrophoska, lime nitrate - calcium nitrate, ammonium nitrate, etc.), phosphorus and molybdenum are added.
It is worth paying attention to the introduction of fresh manure and bird droppings. Rotted manure is not so active, but it should not be applied in large quantities, or in the fall. The ratio of two types of fertilizers is also important: the dominance of one of them leads to a deficiency of the other, which has a detrimental effect on the development and fruiting of plants.
Mulching: fact or fiction
Mulch - many copies have been broken in the debate about the dangers and benefits of sawdust. The main message is that growth is inhibited as a result of soil acidification and a decrease in nitrogen content.
The advisability of using them is a controversial issue. Let's try to provide evidence from the point of view of applied biochemistry. Thus, as a result of decomposition, the mycelium of basidiomycetes settles in wood together with companion fungi (penicillium), feeding on the products of wood destruction. It is the companion mushrooms that contribute to acidification.
But that is not all. As cellulose is destroyed, the mycelium of the fungus dies. As a result of its decomposition, ammonia is released - natural alkalization occurs. As the penicillium leaves, a new population of imperfect fungi grows - for example, the genus Haplographium, Sporotrichum, which are active ammonifiers.
- Do not use fresh sawdust or shavings.
Fresh means not dried out, from fresh wood, but dark, damp, rotted, since the active process of cellulose decomposition will begin. It is best to let the raw materials rot, or mix and let it brew with nitrogen preparations (1 g per 1 liter of sawdust).
- Alternation of layers is practiced - part of the plant (leaf litter), part of the sawdust, when watered with mullein infusion, Baikal, mixed with ash.
- To speed up the alkalization process, urea, etc., is added to sawdust.
- To compost shavings, they are poured into a box or compost pit and filled with urea - the solution concentration is 10 g/10 l of water. The mixture should stand for about 2-4 months, protected with film from drying out. So, this can be done in the fall - by spring the shavings will be ready for use.
As for the mineral component, the main microelements are potassium, sodium phosphorus, the situation is more complicated. Calcium ions block the absorption of calcium and potassium chloride. Excess calcium leads to calcic chlorosis. A lack of potassium is destructive - delayed ripening, blossom end rot in tomatoes and other problems, but its excess also leads to an imbalance.
If you decide to engage in agricultural business seriously, and the question arises of choosing soil for growing raspberries, then by reading articles that, due to their format, reveal the question, let’s be honest, superficially, you will have to start reading literature written by professionals. And also do a laboratory analysis that determines the scheme of further actions.
Ecology of farming: How to plant raspberries: proper planting, care, fertilization of seedlings."Gardener and Gardener" will tell you everything you need to know about planting raspberries of any type and variety. You will learn not only when to plant your favorite berries, but also where the young plants will be
Raspberry berries attract children and adults, thanks to their unique taste and healing properties. But getting a rich harvest is impossible without regular and close care of the plant. Moreover, the prerequisites for abundant fruiting are laid at the stage of planting and arranging the raspberry tree.
Choosing the optimal time for planting raspberries
If you are planning to grow raspberries on your plot, then you should think about when is the best time to plant them. It is difficult to give a definitive time frame, but several factors should be taken into account when preparing for planting.
1. Climatic features of the region. For example, in the southern regions, where the heat comes quickly in the spring and there is little rainfall, it is recommended to plant raspberries in the fall, because this season here is quite warm and long, which allows young plants to successfully take root in a new place. In the northern regions, on the contrary, spring planting is more effective, since in the fall the ground freezes early, as a result of which the plants may freeze out.
2. Specifics of planting material. In particular, the degree of drought and frost resistance of a particular variety and the beginning of the active growing season of the plant. For example, it is better to plant black raspberries in the spring, because they are less resistant to frost, but have strong roots, which allows them to better tolerate drought. In turn, the growing season of yellow raspberries begins early, so they should be planted in the fall.
In addition, raspberries, the planting and care of which require an individual approach taking into account the characteristics of the variety and soil characteristics, are traditionally propagated in several ways, which also affects the choice of planting dates.
In the spring, herbaceous green shoots are planted, reaching 20 cm, with already developed white roots.
For summer planting, plants grown in containers are suitable; they will take root within a season and will be ready for wintering.
In the fall, annual root shoots are planted. The fact that the offspring has matured and is ready for transplantation is indicated by replacement buds appearing on the root collar and the presence of fibrous white roots.
Where is the best place to plant raspberries?
It is equally important to choose the right site for planting raspberries. It is considered optimal to arrange a raspberry garden in an area not exposed to cold winds and open to sunlight. The most favorable soils for raspberries are slightly acidic loamy soils, moisture-absorbing, but also sufficiently drained. Good harvests can also be achieved on sandy soils if you enrich them with humus every year.
The location of the raspberry tree should be selected taking into account what plants will be adjacent to it. Thus, it is not recommended to plant raspberries next to some fruit trees, potatoes, tomatoes, strawberries and strawberries, since they are prone to the same diseases and suffer from common pests. Raspberries do not get along well with currants and sea buckthorn, because their roots lie at the same depth and can drown out each other. You should also pay attention to the proximity of raspberries of different varieties. For example, in order to protect black raspberries from green mosaics, they need to be planted at a distance of at least 100 m from the bushes of red varieties, which are often carriers of this disease in a latent form.
Soil preparation
If the issue with the location has already been resolved, then it is worth starting to prepare the site for planting raspberries. In the fall, the soil is prepared a month and a half before planting the seedlings. And if you plan to plant raspberries in the spring, then processing is carried out in the fall.
First of all, you need to clear the area of weeds. Next, the ground is plowed or dug up at least 30 cm deep. When digging, fertilizer is usually applied: rotted manure (10-30 kg), potassium sulfate (40-50 g) and superphosphates (60-80 g) per square meter. It is better to enrich peaty soils with sand, adding 4 buckets per 1 sq. m.
Methods for planting raspberries
In parallel with preparing the site, you should decide how to plant raspberries, namely, choose a specific planting method.
The most common methods are bush and row. In the first case, the bushes are planted at a distance of 1.5-1.7 m. In this case, by the 4th year of cultivation, lush bushes with 10 developed shoots are obtained. Weak and damaged shoots are cut out.
With the ordinary method, the shoots are planted in separate holes or trenches. Holes are dug up to 40 cm deep and up to 50 cm in diameter, so that the roots of the seedlings are completely placed in them. The technology for planting raspberries using the pit method involves adding fertilizer directly to the hole, if it was not added when digging the area. The nutrient mixture for one pit includes humus or compost (3-5 kg), potassium salt (20-25 g) and superphosphates (30-35 g).
Despite the high labor intensity, the most popular and effective way is to plant raspberries in trenches, which are prepared 2-3 weeks before planting. They dig them 50-55 cm wide and 40-50 cm deep. Next, rotted manure is placed on the bottom in a layer of 10 cm, superphosphate is evenly distributed over it and sprinkled with vermicompost.
If the top layer of soil in the selected area is sufficiently fertile, then it is also laid on the bottom. In this case, you can add a moderate amount of wood ash.
In small areas, planting raspberries in containers is practiced. To do this, use plastic or metal dishes with a depth and diameter of about 50 cm. A container without a bottom is buried in the ground and filled with fertile soil and fertilizers. The root system of bushes planted in this way will not grow and choke out other plants.
Raspberry planting technology
At this stage, the question “how to plant raspberries correctly?” becomes relevant. It is worth noting that planting technology will vary somewhat depending on the characteristics of the planting material and the chosen planting method.
Annual shoots, green shoots (for example, for propagating remontant raspberries), as well as root cuttings are usually used as planting material. Speaking about how to plant raspberries, it would not hurt to remind you that for planting it is better to choose seedlings with medium or thin shoots and a well-developed fibrous root system.
Planting shoots
The planting scheme for the bush method involves placing plants so that there is about 1.2 m in the row between individual bushes, and the row spacing in this case is made 1.5-1.8 m wide. With trench technology, seedlings are placed in rows at a distance of 30 -50 cm, stripes one and a half to two meters wide are left between the rows. Tree raspberries are planted with row spacing of at least 2.5 meters so that the lower buds have enough light.
Directly when planting, the seedling is placed in the center of the hole or trench and, having spread the roots well, they are sprinkled with earth, shaking slightly so that the lumps of soil tightly occupy the entire space around the roots. The planting depth is determined so that the replacement bud, located at the base of the stem, is hidden 2-3 cm into the ground. The soil around the seedlings is compacted. Each bush is watered using 5-6 liters of water. After planting, the seedlings are pruned, leaving 15-20 cm for autumn planting and 30-40 cm for spring planting.
Planting cuttings
Raspberries are also planted from cuttings. To do this, suitable root cuttings with a diameter of 3-5 mm are prepared in the fall. They are cut into fragments of 10-15 cm. In winter, the cuttings are stored in damp sand in the basement. In early spring, in a prepared and fertilized area, make grooves 5 cm deep and lay the cuttings in them. The grooves are covered with earth and watered. By autumn, plants with a developed root system and 2-3 shoots appear. Planting cuttings in greenhouses with soil is considered more effective.
Planting seeds
Sometimes gardeners practice planting raspberries from seeds. Planting material is purchased or prepared by hand. To do this, take ripe berries and squeeze them through cheesecloth. The resulting mass can be spread on a sheet of paper and dried a little. The seeds are mixed with sand and sown in a cold greenhouse or boxes. The landing site should be moist and shaded. When 3-4 leaves appear on the sprouts, they can be picked, placed in small pots or again in a cold greenhouse. So, by autumn you can get seedlings ready for planting in the ground. It should be taken into account that seeds germinate unevenly, and the resulting plants do not always retain the properties of the mother plants.
In order for raspberries to grow and bear fruit well, planting and caring for them must be regular. It is worth noting that for different types, be it red or fragrant raspberries, the basic rules for planting and care are practically the same. The main thing is that after planting, periodically feed the plant throughout the season, fight pests and weeds, promptly prune and water, the number of which can be reduced by mulching the soil in the raspberry field with peat, manure or chopped straw. published
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