Herbaceous peonies belong to perennials. They do not require special care and can grow in one place without aging for 8 to 12 years. But you will have to wait for flowering; peonies bloom only in the fifth year of their growth.
For planting peonies you need to choose an open sunny area. Pits with a width and depth of up to 50 cm are prepared in advance. The soil and the top layer that you pull out of the pit must be mixed with fertilizers: 100 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium chloride and 100 g of ammonium nitrate. Mix everything thoroughly and place separately. The bottom layer of earth is completely removed from the hole - use it for other purposes.
Be sure to add a bucket of humus to the bottom of the hole. The bush that you are about to replant should be very carefully dug with a shovel, trying not to touch the root collar. Then carefully lift the entire plant with a fork.
If the bush is already quite grown it is necessary divide into several parts. To do this, cut the rhizome with a knife, making sure that 3-5 buds remain in each part. If you come across rotten roots, remove them.
Disinfect the rhizome in a solution of copper sulfate. The solution is prepared at the rate of 10 g per 1 liter of water.
Having made a depression in the prepared hole with a mound in the middle, carefully place the rhizome of the transplanted peony in it. Try to cover the buds with soil only 1-3 cm. If you place them deeper, the peony will not bloom. After covering the plant with soil, water it with water.
There is another way to propagate peonies. This green cuttings. To do this, choose a plant aged 5-7 years. They inspect and carefully but quickly pick off the ripened shoots, always including the underground part. At the base of the shoot there should already be formed buds, ranging in size from 0.2 to 0.5 cm. If there are no buds, the shoot is not suitable for reproduction.
Before planting the shoots in the ground, the stem of the cutting is shortened by 1/3 or ½ part. Make sure there are 2-3 sheets left.
With the onset of autumn, the cuttings gain strength, take root, and the buds noticeably increase in size, reaching 1-2 cm.
With the onset of frost, peony bushes are sprinkled with earth, in a layer of up to 10 cm.
In the spring, cuttings rooted in the fall germinate and shoots with leaves appear on each stem. With this method of propagation, 15-20% of the stems can be used in a strong mother plant.
If during the transplant you have fragments of fleshy roots– don’t rush to throw them away. With good care, planted in nutritious soil, they will develop stems within 1-2 years, and after another couple of years they will delight you with their flowering.
One more is possible method of propagation – seed. But reviews of this method say that it is of little use. After all, peony flowers appear only after 5-6 years, and even then they are not of the best quality.
Caring for peonies consists of abundant watering, mandatory feeding of the plant, and careful weeding.
One of the most important conditions is indispensable surface hilling with humus in winter.
Compliance with these simple rules for caring for herbaceous peonies will promote long, abundant peony flowering for many years.
the authorship of the article is confirmed in GOOGLEDue to their high decorative value and delicate aroma, herbaceous peony bushes are very popular in landscaping garden plots. This plant is unpretentious; most varieties easily tolerate frosty winters and do not require painstaking care. The herbaceous peony is a long-lived plant. With proper planting and proper care, it will delight you with lush greenery, large lush flowers and intoxicating aromas for decades.
It is the herbaceous peony, its wild species, numerous varieties and hybrids, that is meant when people talk about garden peonies. This popular perennial plant is native to ancient China. Most modern varietal bushes were obtained as a result of centuries-old selection of two original plant species: Paeonia Lactiflora and Paeonia Officinalis. Types of herbaceous peony are usually classified according to the shape and structural features of the flowers.
According to this characteristic, herbaceous peonies are:
- terry, or spherical;
- simple semi-double;
- non-double, or Japanese;
- anemone-like.
Terry peony Red Charm
Peony semi-double Duchess
Peony non-double Primavera
Peony anemone Santa Fe
The herbaceous peony is propagated by dividing bushes, less often by stem and root cuttings, as well as layering. The most reliable way is propagation by fragments of rhizomes with buds. It is important that each part of the rhizome has at least 2-3 well-developed buds.
Place for planting herbaceous peony
For full development and beautiful flowering, the herbaceous peony needs good lighting and warming by sunlight for most of the day. At the same time, during hot midday hours, light shading is acceptable and even desirable. In addition, the plant needs sufficient air access, space and the absence of drafts. Excessive moisture and swampy soil, on the contrary, are detrimental to peonies. This is important to consider when choosing a place to plant bushes.
Flower beds in the ground floor area and in the patio, open to the sun or semi-shaded areas near the gazebo, near the gate, along the sunny side of the fence, walls of the house and garden paths are ideal for herbaceous peony. Places where water stagnates for a long time after rains and permanently shaded areas are unsuitable for planting.
The rhizome of the herbaceous peony is quite powerful and branched. Within a few years after planting, the roots of the bush grow into the surface layers and 40-60 cm deep into the soil. Therefore, in order for peonies to form, develop and bloom fully, you should not plant them close to the walls of the house, path borders and fences. The optimal distance is at least 1.2 m.
When is it better to plant herbaceous peony in autumn or spring?
The preferred period for planting and replanting herbaceous peony bushes is the last ten days of August - September. Plants planted at this time will have time to sufficiently develop renewal buds and suction roots. If you plant peonies later, they may not fully take root by winter and may suffer from frost. In addition, with late planting, suction roots will begin to form only in the spring and will not be able to fully supply the growing bush with moisture and nutrients.
What to do if planting material is purchased only for spring? Is it possible to plant herbaceous peonies at this time of year? Yes, if you choose high-quality rhizomes: without mold, visible damage, thickening and growths, and always with 2-3 correctly formed buds. It is important to plant them at the right time. The best period is the second half of April - early May.
Land for herbaceous peony
The optimal choice for growing herbaceous peonies of any variety is loose, breathable and fertile loamy soil. The acidity level suitable for the plant is about 6-6.5 pH. However, peonies are able to develop normally and bloom profusely on less favorable, sandy or clayey types of soil, if the soil is pre-prepared.
To make viscous clay soil more loose, it must be mixed with sand (in the process of preparing the planting hole). If the soil is sandy, it is advisable to add clay before planting. Peat or humus is used to soften the soil. You can enrich the composition of the soil for herbaceous peonies with the help of complex mineral compositions and nutritional supplements.
Planting depth of herbaceous peony
Compliance with recommendations for planting depth is the key to the full rooting, development and flowering of herbaceous peony. If the rhizomes are not deep enough, the plant may suffer from frost. If, on the contrary, the planting is too deep, the peony may not bloom.
How to plant a herbaceous peony according to all the rules:
A day before planting, prepare a hole for the plants. The optimal size, taking into account the development of the root system of the herbaceous peony, is at least 60 x 60 cm. The dug-out fertile soil is set aside.
A drainage layer must be formed at the bottom. This is especially necessary if the groundwater level in the area is high. For planting peonies, a drainage layer 15-20 cm thick is sufficient. Fine- or medium-fraction expanded clay, brick chips or river sand are usually used as drainage.
The drainage layer is covered with half of the excavated fertile soil, as well as: 1.5 buckets of humus, 180-200 g of superphosphate, 350 g of wood ash, 40-50 g of iron sulfate. Mix all this thoroughly. No need to compact.
The remaining fertile soil is poured on top with a low mound. In this case, leave 10-15 cm of free space to the upper edge of the pit. It is convenient to check the approximate level with the handle of a shovel or a regular ruler.
Fragments of peony rhizomes for planting are placed in the center of the mound. The roots are straightened, pointing down or to the sides. The rhizomes are carefully buried in the soil, approximately 4.5-5 cm from the line where the buds begin to grow.
They complete the landing. The peony is covered with the remaining soil. Very carefully, trying not to damage the buds, the soil is leveled and lightly compacted. An earthen roller is formed around the hole. Water the plant generously. For the first watering, about 20-25 liters of water are required.
To preserve moisture and ensure full rooting of the peony, the hole is mulched with a mixture of peat and soil (1:1 ratio).
What is the distance between herbaceous peony bushes
When planting herbaceous peonies in rows, you need to take into account that the roots will actively grow not only deep into the soil, but also along its surface. Therefore, when preparing planting holes, it is advisable to leave gaps between them of at least 80-100 cm.
How to water a herbaceous peony
In the first year of development, herbaceous varieties of peonies need thorough watering 1-2 times a week. In subsequent years, if there is no intense heat and prolonged droughts, herbaceous peonies can be watered no more than once every 10-15 days.
Watering is especially important in the spring - during the period of active growth of their roots and the formation of buds, as well as at the end of summer, when the plant's buds are forming recovery. Herbaceous peonies are watered infrequently, but quite abundantly: each bush will require up to 3-4 buckets of water. It is important to prevent prolonged stagnation of moisture in the hole.
How to feed herbaceous peonies
From about the third year of development, herbaceous varieties of peonies, in addition to regular watering and loosening, need additional feeding. This is necessary for active budding, abundant, lush flowering, full development of regenerative buds and roots that feed the bush. The composition of fertilizers for each season is different.
in the spring
In spring, herbaceous peonies are fed in three stages:
- Soon after the snow melts. During this period, peonies are thoroughly fertilized with a nitrogen-potassium mixture: about 15-20 g of nitrogen and the same amount of potassium (per each bush).
- During budding. The best nutrition for blooming herbaceous peonies: a mixture of 10 g of nitrogen with 15 g of phosphorus and 20 g of nitrogen. Also during this period it is useful to apply the so-called foliar fertilizing - spray the peony leaves with a solution of any complex mineral fertilizer suitable for the plant.
- After flowering. As soon as the peonies fade, the laying of new regeneration buds begins. At this time, each bush is fertilized with a mixture of 15-20 g of phosphorus with 10-15 g of potassium. Industrial complex fertilizers are also used. For example, “Gilea”, “Mr. Color”, “Fertimix” or similar.
in summer
In the second decade of June, potassium-phosphorus feeding of peonies is carried out again: a mixture of 15-20 g of phosphorus with 10-15 g of potassium is added to each bush. Throughout the summer, it is useful to add ready-made microfertilizers to the water for watering herbaceous peonies. 1 tablet per bucket of water is enough.
in autumn
By autumn, the active growth of peonies and the formation of future regeneration buds slow down. However, the plant's roots continue to develop and accumulate nutrients. The purpose of autumn feeding of peonies is to prepare for winter. At the end of September-October, the bushes are fertilized with 15 g of phosphorus and 15 g of potassium. The mixture is applied dry (on abundantly moistened soil) or dissolved in water for irrigation.
How to prepare a herbaceous peony for wintering
To prevent herbaceous peonies from being damaged by frost, in the fall you need to:
- Trim remaining leaves and stems almost to ground level. No more than 2-3 cm of stems should remain on the surface. What is it for? Left withered foliage is an ideal breeding ground for insect larvae and pathogens. To prevent them from harming the peonies, you should not put off this work until spring. The best time to prune herbaceous peonies is after the first frost.
- Apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizer(15 g of each substance per bush). Fertilize herbaceous peony bushes no later than mid-October, before persistent cold snaps and frosts.
- Hill up and mulch the bushes after pruning. To cover the peony, ordinary sawdust, compost, spruce branches, peat, and dry leaves are suitable. Under no circumstances should you use freshly cut leaves of peonies or other plants for mulching. The thickness of the mulch layer should be approximately 18-20 cm.
Video of planting and caring for herbaceous peony
Probably every person has his own favorite flowers. But at the same time, there are flower plants that everyone likes. Well, how can you pass indifferently past the luxurious fragrant rose, which is rightly called the queen of flowers, and the peony, the most delicate peony, lush with an abundance of petals... can’t it rightfully be considered the prince of the flower kingdom?!
Herbaceous peony is one of the most popular and widespread perennial ornamental plants. It is highly valued for its beautiful large and delicate flowers, a decorative bush from spring to autumn. And, of course, for the ability to reproduce well and grow in one place for a long time (up to 20 years or more).
Currently, more than 6 thousand varieties are known. Trying to collect a large collection of peonies in a small garden plot is hardly advisable. It is enough to plant several varieties with just one plant. And, most importantly, the flowers of these varieties should be of different colors and different flowering periods.
Correct agricultural technology for peonies
The decorativeness, productivity and longevity of the crop depend on proper agricultural technology, taking into account the biological characteristics of peonies.
First of all, you need to know that peonies are very light-loving. They can tolerate light partial shade, especially during the midday hours, but strong shading for 2-3 hours leads to the fact that the plants either do not bloom at all or the flowers are of poor quality. They should not be planted near buildings: they will suffer from overheating and dryness from the walls, as well as from dripping from roofs and from snow debris. And if planted near trees and shrubs, they will lack moisture and nutrition.
Peonies can grow in almost all garden soils. But the best for them are loamy, cultivated, well-drained and sufficiently moisture-absorbing soils.
Although peonies are very demanding of soil moisture throughout the growing season, at the same time they absolutely cannot tolerate damp, swampy places where their roots rot. The reaction of the soil environment should be slightly acidic or neutral (pH 6-7). Peony roots penetrate to the depth to which the soil is cultivated.
With shallow cultivation, the roots, having reached solid soil, grow to the sides, located in the upper layer of soil. In this case, the plants lack moisture and nutrition and grow poorly. Therefore, deep tillage is required.
Planting holes must have a depth and width of at least 50-60 cm. The bottom is loosened and the hole is filled 2/3 with a nutrient mixture. The mixture consists of 15-20 kg of organic fertilizers (rotted manure, compost, peat), to which 400 g of granulated superphosphate or 400 g of bone meal, 150-200 g of potassium sulfate and for acidic soils - lime are added. It is important to know here that 300-350 g of lime per 1 m2 increases the pH by one, i.e. significantly reduce the acidity of the soil environment.
On heavy clay soils, add 1 bucket of sand (preferably river sand) to the mixture, and on very light sandy soils - 1-1.5 buckets of crushed clay. The upper part of the hole (about 20 cm) is filled with fertile soil from the top layer of soil.
On waterlogged soils, drainage must be done. To do this, gravel, pebbles, and broken bricks are poured into the bottom of the planting hole, deepening it 15-20 cm.
Herbaceous peony, preparation of planting material
Preparation of planting material. The main and most reliable way to propagate garden peonies is by dividing the bush. The best time for this operation is from mid-August to mid-September. This is the time when renewal buds have already fully formed (from which shoots with leaves and flowers will form in the spring), but mass formation of suction roots has not yet begun.
After trimming the stems, the bush is carefully dug up (so as not to damage the buds), washed from the ground with a stream of water and carefully divided into planting units - divisions, which should have 3-5 buds and the same number of roots shortened to 10 cm. The bushes divide more easily if the roots wilt a little. Divide using a wooden wedge, which is driven into the center of the bush with a hammer. The roots are trimmed with a sharp, fire-sterilized knife, and the trimmed tissue is sprinkled with crushed charcoal.
It should be taken into account that if there are too many buds in the planting part and few roots, then the developing shoots will lack nutrition and develop poorly. If there are few buds and many thick storage roots, then young plants will not form new roots in the first year, and the next year they will suffer from insufficient development of the root system. When dividing the bush into small parts - with 1-2 eyes and a piece of rhizome, the plants develop slowly (flowering occurs a year later), but these will be healthy plants with a well-developed root system. Such small plots need to be grown for 1-2 years in special beds.
Planting herbaceous peonies
Landing. When planting peonies in a permanent place, they are placed at a distance of 100-120 cm from each other. Plants are placed in the upper third of the hole in a fertile layer of soil without fertilizers. There should be a 4-5 cm layer of soil above the top bud of the planted division. If the buds are deeper, the plants, although they will grow well, will not bloom. When planted shallowly, the bushes can be “squeezed” out of the ground. In the future, the buds may be damaged by late spring frosts, and flowering will be weak. The roots should be positioned freely and should not be bent or pressed.
After planting, the plants should be watered and then topped up with soil so that the buds are not exposed. If there is no rain during the planting period, then watering should be repeated every 2-3 days for 2-3 weeks, then mulch the hole with peat.
In the first year, it is recommended to cover planted peonies for the winter with peat or leaves (not peonies). In early spring, plantings are cleared of cover by raking it into the row spaces. You need to make sure that the buds are not above ground level and, if necessary, add soil.
Caring for herbaceous peonies, timing and frequency of fertilization
Plant care. Annual care consists of systematic weed removal, loosening, watering, fertilizing, and protective measures. Young plants should be fertilized from the first year of life. It is better to apply fertilizers, especially in liquid form, and mullein into the holes around the bush and cover them with soil after watering. This has a beneficial effect on the development of the young plant.
The rates, timing and frequency of fertilizer application depend on soil fertility, age and developmental phases of plants. At the beginning of growth, the plant requires a large amount of nitrogen, during budding and flowering - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, when buds are formed - only phosphorus and potassium. In the first two feedings (in the spring on snow and during budding), you can give nitrophoska at 100 g/m2. The third feeding should be done immediately after flowering: add granulated superphosphate (25-30 g) and potassium sulfate (10-15 g) or potassium magnesia (15-20 g). The mixture is dissolved in 10 liters of water (dose per 1 m2).
To stimulate better plant development in the first and second years after planting, it is recommended to remove flowers. In subsequent years, to obtain larger flowers, it is better to leave one flower on the stem, removing the remaining pea-sized buds.
When cutting flowers on a bush, at least half of the stems should be left (otherwise the plant will weaken).
In double varieties, the stems cannot always hold large, heavy flowers. Therefore, supports are installed on the bushes during the budding period. They can be made from thick (0.5 cm) wire in the form of rings with stands, which are painted green.
In late autumn, with the onset of the first frosts, the entire above-ground part of the peony plant is cut off and burned. Early pruning may cause a lack of flowering the following year.
N. Ya. Ippolitova, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences
The spring bloom of peonies is like the awakening of life. These impeccable flowers can be considered long-lived in the history of gardening - they have been known for more than one and a half thousand years. According to legend, those who won wealth and fame always bought peonies; planting and caring for them meant that a person was worthy of having this symbol of nobility, courage, love and prosperity. Peonies are often planted in prominent places, which is not surprising: they always attract attention with their brightness. In different eras, some varieties of these flowers were valued very highly, often exchanged only for gold.
Herbaceous peonies can grow in the same area for a long time without requiring replanting. The main rule is to provide the plant with a favorable place, which should not be too wet; it should not be planted under trees or close to buildings - this species does not like darkening. The most popular varieties are: Multicolor, Patio, Icy Breeze, Black Pearl, Coral Sunset, Pink Hawaiian Coral, Sarah Bernhardt.
Planting flowers in spring
Before planting peonies in the spring, it is worth knowing that herbaceous peonies do not like peat. Therefore, it is extremely undesirable to add it to the planting hole, even in the form of mulch. Peat has an acidic reaction, while a neutral environment is favorable for peonies. Herbaceous species of peonies are resilient plants that tolerate dry and frosty periods well. However, flowers do not tolerate drafts and constant shade, and excessive watering can cause root rot. In constant shade, peonies will develop poorly and there will be no flowering.
Since the flowers perform well in a neutral environment, the peony is herbaceous: planting and caring for the plant should be accompanied by checking the acidity in the place where the flowers are planted. As you know, mineral fertilizers acidify the soil, so it is advisable to liming the soil. The dimensions of the planting hole should be made within 60-70 cm, since in loose soil the roots of flowers penetrate up to 90 cm. 
It is recommended to form the pit itself in the shape of a cone; during planting, distribute the roots of the plant over the entire surface.
One of the representatives of the species is the thin-leaved peony: planting and caring for it follows the same growing rules. Thin-leaved peonies also love an alkaline environment; if there is no drainage in the planting areas during spring floods, the plant can become very wet and begin to rot. The thin-leaved subspecies is characterized by good winter tolerance, often does not require any shelter, is resistant to plant diseases, but can be attacked by aphids.
Growing and caring for plants
Proper cultivation and care of peonies involves periodic weeding and loosening of the soil, and mandatory watering during dry periods so that moisture reaches the root system. To strengthen flower buds, many gardeners practice watering with potassium and phosphorus before and after flowering. For herbaceous peonies, it is useful to periodically carry out preventive maintenance against gray rot (before flowering) and spotting (after flowering) - spray with copper oxychloride.
Gray rot is one of the dangerous diseases of these flowers. Growing peonies: planting and care in open ground should take into account the likelihood of this disease, so experienced gardeners often advise collecting falling petals and not allowing them to remain on the leaves, because in a humid environment (rain, dew), marks of gray rot form almost instantly. 
To prepare for winter, the entire above-ground part of the peony is removed to ground level immediately after the first frost.
One of the popular herbaceous varieties of peonies is the Flock of Butterflies - an intensively growing plant with rich pink flowers and noticeable yellow stamens. Abundant flowering usually occurs in the middle of the season; the variety looks good in group plantings. It is better for this plant to free up light or semi-dark areas. Herbaceous peony Flock of butterflies: planting and care begins with preliminary application of fertilizers; the flower needs abundant watering in the first 1-2 weeks after planting in the soil. The variety tolerates cold weather well, but if the temperature conditions are too harsh, it needs shelter.
Tree peonies: features and varieties
Gone are the days when anonymous peony bushes grew in our front gardens - one always early, dark red, another white and several pink ones. Now I want something more, fortunately there are a huge number of varieties on the market. But the success of hybridization, the emergence of new cultivars, and the fashion for Japanese and anemone-like varieties seriously complicate the task of choosing suitable specimens.
And since peony is a long-lived plant, we have practically no room for error.
Let's try to talk about what to prefer, what features of the variety to pay attention to, and what fashion trends are currently observed in the world of peonies.
We will talk about herbaceous peonies- these are also varieties obtained from lactiferous peony, and modern hybrids. Species peonies, which have become fashionable to plant in gardens, as well as Ito hybrids, as well as tree-like ones, are a topic for a separate discussion.
We will focus our attention on the plant’s business card - its flowers. Everything else: the timing of flowering, the habit of the bush, its height, the characteristics of the foliage - although it matters, it is not so important when choosing. Rather, these qualities must be taken into account when planning a planting site. Such information is easy to find in catalogs and reference books, including on the Internet.
Choosing a peony is a responsible matter; every novice lover of these flowers would like to wish not to commit spontaneous actions by purchasing a pig in a poke. Try to go to exhibitions to look at the varieties you are interested in “live”. It happens that when you see some peony, you will lose peace and sleep: it will be so beautiful! Study the assortment on the websites, as the pictures there are more accurate to reality. In printed publications, unfortunately, the color is distorted, and it is impossible to fully judge the merits of a particular variety.
Classic varieties of herbaceous peonies
It must be said that among herbaceous peonies there are no absolutely outbred peonies, without family or tribe. Just over the years, wandering from front garden to front garden, they 
lost their name. Meanwhile, all our nameless bushes, as a rule, are the heirs of those that were bred more than a century ago in France, where the center for the selection of these plants was located in the 19th century. Such originators as Kahlo, Cruz, Lemoine, Desser, Millet, Doria, Rivoire worked there.
In Russia, peonies brought from Europe were initially grown in botanical gardens and pharmaceutical gardens and used as medicinal plants. Then they began to be planted in lordly estates, and subsequently, after the revolution, they scattered throughout the village front gardens. Actually, our people’s idea of what a classic peony should be was formed under the influence of French varieties.
It is believed that, first of all, a peony should exude a wonderful aroma: without a smell, it is not a peony at all, as most people think. Absolutely all the old classic varieties created by French gardeners smell like expensive perfume: lilies of the valley, old roses, lilacs or carnations, jasmine or citrus fruits. And their flowers are lush, double, rose-shaped, crown-shaped, spherical or hemispherical in shape.
White. Many French heritage varieties have white flowers or varying shades of white. It can be white with a lemon tint, like ‘Duchesse de Nemours’(1856) or ‘Enchanteresse’(1903); pinkish when blooming and then lightening to pure white ‘Mme de Vernevilie’ (1885); 'Avalanche'(1886) – white with a pink center. Or creamy, with pink richness towards the center ‘La Lorraine’ (1901); white-cream 'Marie Lemoine'(1869) or cream with a light pink tint, now extremely rare Solange(1907). U ‘Madame Emile Lemoine’(1899) pink specks on petals and red markings in the center. Another stunning historical peony with an amazing aroma and large pink-cream-white flowers with a yellow highlight in the center - ‘Mme Jules Dessert’ (1909).
Perhaps the most famous of the white French peonies is the famous Testiva Maxima(1857), it is also the most common and recognizable: profusely blooming, with cherry-red markings on pure white petals.
Pink ones. Among the ancient French varieties, many peonies with pink flowers have been preserved. And the most famous of them is, of course, the unsurpassed 'Sarah Bernhardt', bred by Lemoine in 1906. Indeed, the fantastically beautiful pink caps of perfectly shaped flowers, the harmonious bush and abundant flowering make this peony one of the most famous and desired in our gardens.
In addition to the “classics of the genre”, there are many masterpieces in the line of French pink peonies: this is pink-lilac 'Albert Crousse'(1893), and similar to it, only with silver tips of the petals, ‘Monsieur Jules Elie’(1888). Or 'Alice Harding'(1922) with dark pink outer petals and a creamy white crown; light pink ‘Belle Douasienne’(1861), rose red Mme Reignoux(1909) and 'Madelon'(1922) with light pink outer petals and a creamy pink crown.
Reds. There are not so many “French” varieties of this color, but they are all outstanding: this is an early ‘Aviateur Bleriot’(year of creation unknown), and red-pink 'Linne'(1860), and the famous late ‘Marechal Mac-Mahon’(1867), and dark red with a purple tint ‘Inspecteur Lavergne’(1924), and purple-cherry with silver tips ‘Felix Crousse’ (1881).
All French classic varieties have proven their vitality, they are all long-lived and have unsurpassed qualities - an amazing smell, a variety of color nuances, and a perfect flower shape. They are beautiful when cut; a bouquet of such peonies lasts a long time in a vase, filling the room with an incomparable aroma. Planting such varieties in your garden is a great success.
Herbaceous peonies top sellers
In recent years, American varieties have been most in demand by our gardeners. The fact is that after the First World War, the center of peony selection moved to the USA, where a large number of nurseries arose, famous originators worked who gave the world new varieties: Wilde, Krekler, Clem, Kundred, Sass, Nicolet, Cooper, Shaylor.
The American Peony Society was also organized there. The USA still remains 
leader in breeding work. In addition to traditional varieties, new interspecific selections appear here every year.
Green-flowered peonies, in particular, have become news in recent years. 'Green Lotus' and 'Green Halo'. Finally, breeders have achieved yellow and lemon herbaceous peonies - ‘Goldilocks’ and ‘Lemon Chiffon’ have been obtained, which have also appeared here, but are still very expensive. The vector of supply and demand is gradually shifting towards hybrids with anemoid and Japanese flower forms obtained as a result of crossing peony milkweed with other types - medicinal peonies, evasive peony, Mlokosevich peony. There are hundreds of American varieties and interspecific hybrids that deserve attention.
White terry herbaceous peonies.
Exceptionally prolific bloomer 'Gladys Hodson', white-cream with a hint of ivory; 
one of the latest 'George J. Nicholls', white, with an amber tint on the inside; gorgeous fragrant 'James Lewis', with large ivory flowers ; 'Corinne Wersan'- creamy with a pinkish center; ‘Marilla Beauty is a flesh-white shade, with abundant flowering; cream ‘Norma Volz’; 'Florence Nicholls'- the outer petals are light pink with a creamy yellow base, the crown is cream, the tuft is light in color; 'Cheddar Surprise'- white outside, light yellow belt the color of aged cheese, with a high creamy center; white-cream 'Elsa Sass'.
Pink herbaceous peonies.
Among the outstanding terry peonies of American selection, the following stand out: elegant 'Dresden Pink', bright pink, with silver “shaggy” edges; bright lilac pink 'Alexander Fleming'; 'Princess Margaret' with lush, slightly flattened pink flowers; light pink with salmon tint inside ‘Mrs. Franklin D. Roosewelt'; salmon pink with huge flat plate-shaped flowers, ‘Dinner Plate’; fragrant, pink with lilac tint ‘Pink Formal’; creamy pink, lightening Doris Cooper; pink with slight red markings Jessie Gist; The Fawn, pink with dark pink specks, with bright strokes in the center; incomparable tricolor ‘Cornelia Shaylor with soft pink outer petals, pearlescent crown and pink center; sparkling rose-red, abundant and vital 'Pink Jazz'; hot pink 'Susie Q'; tricolor 'Whopper' with light pink outer petals, a huge ball of cream petals in the crown and a light pink center; 'Cincinnati'- dark pink with silver tips; sparkling, dark pink 'Emma Klehm'.
Red terry. This group is especially good 'Black Velvet', velvety dark red, aromatic; 'Karl Rosenfield', dark ruby with a bluish tint, when fully bloomed, the stamens are visible; popular 'Paul M. Wild', bright red, shiny, non-fading; 'Red Satin', red, rare tone with satin shine; fragrant 'Sinbad', dark bright red with silver tips; bright red with lilac tones, exceptionally profuse blooming 'Felix Supreme'.
Varieties with Japanese and anemone-shaped flowers.
The average peony lover has yet to understand and appreciate the delicate beauty of these peonies. Although the most advanced lovers of these flowers have already managed to collect impressive collections. Among the most popular: 'Neon', carmine pink with large pink staminodes with a yellow edge, fragrant; semi-double aromatic Paula Fay, with rich carmine pink petals, bright yellow center; very bright, well recognizable 'White Cap', dark pink with a white contrasting “cap” of staminodes; 'Lotus Queen', white with long yellow staminodes, similar to a lotus flower.
As for interspecific hybrids, today there are a great many of them, they are distinguished by a wide variety of shapes and colors. What can you recommend to get started? The masterpiece of selection remains the dark pink terry spherical 'Angelo Cobb Freeborn', obtained by the modest rural teacher Mary Fribori as a result of interspecific crossing.
It’s quite difficult to describe this miracle of nature - you have to see it! Huge balls of cyclamen-pink color made of corrugated petals...
Today this variety is recognized as the best terry peony. However, it has a number of disadvantages: a rather unpleasant smell and a very high price. Attractive 'Diana Parks', bright red, with an orange tint. The beauty of the terry peony can drive many people crazy 'Carol'- bright red, shiny, pink-shaped. Effective 'Old Faithful', pink, dark red, with velvety petals. The darkest of all existing peonies - semi-double 'Sable', almost black-red, with a brown tint, yellow stamens and dark golden anthers. Deserves attention Ellen Cowley, sparkling, pure scarlet color, turning pink as the flowers age.
Russian varieties of herbaceous peonies
Our breeders have also made a significant contribution to the world's collection of peonies. They have obtained a number of outstanding varieties and hybrids. In the 1950s, ‘Varenka’ appeared, still beloved today.
This double variety is densely “filled” with flowers, dark pink in color, blooms profusely and is fragrant, very good. At the same time, dark red “came out” ‘Arkady Gaidar’. Its distinctive feature is its very decorative reddish stems and petioles. The appearance of the Memory of Academician Tsitsin was a great success. It received its name in honor of the first director of the Main Botanical Garden. Dark green large leaves, colored petioles, phenomenally sized flowers with a diameter of up to 20 cm, marvelous composition and color, fragrant, creamy with a pink tint, later lightening to white, with bright crimson strokes in the center. And most importantly - extremely abundant and long-lasting flowering. The bush is powerful, tall, and looks great when planted alone.
Equally delightful is ‘In Memory of Gagarin’ (1957), the name of a promising seedling was given after the death of the cosmonaut. In domestic selection, this is a very special peony: once you see it, you cannot forget its light pink flowers with color saturation towards the center, with a yellow highlight - and all this splendor against the backdrop of dark green shiny foliage.
The hybrid is rightly considered the pride of domestic selection ‘Altai News’. Bright pink-lilac flowers of a simple shape with wavy, ruffle-like edges of the petals, at first, inexperienced glance, may seem unusual for a peony. My husband, by the way, was quite surprised when he saw the first flower bloom, learning that it was a peony. However, a few years later, when the plant showed itself in all its glory, there was no end to the delight of everyone who saw it. And how can one not be delighted: during flowering the bush is completely covered with light flowers, as if flocks of butterflies have flocked to it. And what’s surprising is that in cloudy weather and in the evening the flowers close.
One of the latest successes of domestic breeders is peony ‘Pearl scattering’(1989), light pink-pearl, with creamy pink staminodes, like long eyelashes, that fill the entire center of the flower. The cup-shaped, flat flowers resemble open pearl shells, emitting the scent of roses.
Chinese varieties of herbaceous peonies
In conclusion, I would like to say that of the more than 4,000 varieties registered in the world register, the lion's share is listed in China, but, alas, they are completely unknown to us. Sometimes in chain stores you come across bright boxes from the Middle Kingdom. Quite cheap pieces with flowery, absolutely in the Chinese metaphorical spirit, names like 'Blue Lake', ‘Snow Lotus’, ‘Pink Pearl’ or ‘Red Hydrangea’. But what will come of this is unknown, an absolute lottery. There are suspicions that resourceful Chinese suppliers are simply renaming familiar varieties. You can, of course, experiment - suddenly you will get lucky and you will become the owner of a peony of unprecedented beauty.
Fashionable things
Work on interspecific hybridization led to the emergence of the so-called coral series.
'Coral Charm'- early, with huge semi-double flowers of coral-orange color, which towards the end of flowering turns into peach-orange, is considered one of the best varieties for cutting.
'Coral Supreme' also semi-double, but has more petals. The flower is multi-row, cup-shaped, salmon-coral color, unique for peonies. Another American hybrid, pink-coral Coral Fay, with flowers smaller than previous varieties, semi-double.
Unique hybrid
It must be said that long before the appearance of coral novelties, a unique hybrid ‘Cytherea’ was obtained. It blooms relatively early, the flowers have the shape of large swimsuit flowers of luminous bright pink. Later, magical transformations begin: the petals gradually acquire a salmon hue, and later become soft pink.
And what’s interesting is that flowers of all shades are on the bush at the same time - an amazing sight! In inclement weather and in the evening they close their doors. This hybrid remains a favorite among corals.
I don’t know a single person, even far from floriculture, who would not freeze in silent amazement when he saw an American hybrid in my garden ‘ HenryBockstoce'. And how can one not be amazed at the sight of huge, child-sized, double flowers, with shiny garnet-red petals that sit on strong peduncles? This miracle of nature is a constant favorite of exhibitions and the winner in the audience's choice category.
“Americans” attract attention ‘ RedCharm' and 'RedGrace', both dark red, early flowering, multiple winners of exhibitions. The bushes are harmoniously shaped and bloom profusely.
Of the pink varieties, we can recommend for mandatory use the outstanding peony of the American selection ‘Kansas’, with delightful large, up to 20 cm in diameter, flowers of an unprecedented bright red hue with a lilac tint.
And among the white-flowered ones, it enjoys enormous success ‘ MissAmerica' with a center of yellow staminodes, similar to a large chamomile with a diameter of up to 25 cm (not to be confused with the red variety ‘America’). However, I must warn you: it is capricious and grows very slowly! As an alternative, you can plant a very similar Bute with a Japanese-shaped flower, large petals and a yolk-colored core of staminodes, which makes it look like a fried egg. The variety is fragrant and effective in the garden.
GROWING HERBAL PEONIES - PLANTING AND CARE - FLOWER GROWERS' TIPS
The key to excellent peony flowering
Now my herbaceous peonies are sleeping sweetly under reliable shelter. In order for the bushes to delight with abundant colorful flowering next season, I prepare them for wintering in advance. Now I’ll tell you about everything in more detail.
Subtleties of care
After flowering, I remove faded flowers, preventing seeds from setting. This is unnecessary “work” for the plant, on which it spends a lot of energy. In addition, petals stuck to leaves often cause bacterial diseases.
When cutting flowers for a bouquet, I leave a third of each stem, making the cut above the leaf axil. I definitely leave some of the flowers on the bush.
Peony loves weeding within a radius of at least half a meter, and it is advisable to loosen the soil, but very carefully so as not to damage the roots where next year's flowering buds are laid. At the same time as loosening, I apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, usually doing this in September. I make sure to watch the leaves, which should remain green and then gradually turn red.
"Ambulance"
If brown spots appear on the leaves before pruning, it means the peony is sick. This often happens due to high humidity and temperature changes during the day.
I urgently remove damaged leaves, and if there are a lot of spots, I spray the entire bush or water it from a watering can with any antibacterial solution: store-bought or I prepare it myself (10 drops of iodine or brilliant green per 10 liters of water). After a week, I water it well from a watering can with a solution of copper or iron sulfate (according to the instructions) and watch the leaves: if new spots do not appear, then everything is in order. Usually two or three disinfection procedures are sufficient.
When to cut foliage?
Some gardeners, in an effort to quickly remove plant debris from the site and restore beauty, cut off shoots early, thereby weakening the plant. Reddening of the leaves is a natural process of peony development; for me, this is a clear signal for autumn feeding, but in no case an indicator of the end of its life cycle. I do not remove the above-ground part and after the first frost, only when it “lies on its side” will it be possible to cut off the shoots at a height of 7-10 cm from the ground with a sharp pruner. I water the planting site with a watering can with a solution of copper or iron sulfate (not only the bush itself, but also around it within a radius of 50 cm).
Herbaceous peonies - photo For a good sleep
Peony is a fairly winter-hardy plant, but since its buds are located quite close to the surface, in the conditions of the northwest it is advisable to mulch it for the winter. I do this in November, when the average daily temperature is about +3 degrees. To do this, I prepare dry compost, fill buckets with it in advance and leave it in the shed. I sprinkle the bush to a height of 5-7 cm so that the cut shoots are barely visible. I scatter the mulch both in the center of the bush and around the circumference, at least within a radius of 15 cm.
You cannot FILL up a large hill: in the spring, AS SOON AS THE SOIL THAWES, THE FLOWER STARTS TO GROW AND MAY DRY OUT.
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