Interior doors play a very important role: they not only separate one room from another, but also set a certain tone for the interior. These designs can either emphasize the style of the room or overshadow it, attracting special attention to themselves. Despite the fact that the modern market is replete with products, buyers are increasingly purchasing paneled doors.
The popularity of such structures is quite natural and understandable. They are durable and solid, and if desired, panel doors, for example, for a summer house, can be made with your own hands.
Paneled doors are unique in that they have a supporting frame, as well as panel inserts (GOST regulates the presence of these elements). It is simply impossible to confuse such designs with another type of door system.
As a rule, the frame is made of solid wood. At the same time, the lower part of the leaf is always much wider than the sides and the upper part: thanks to this feature, the sash becomes stronger. By the way, they also produce more expensive models reinforced with sheet metal (copper, brass, polished bronze plates): usually these are entrance blocks or door systems intended for installation in a country house.
As for panel inserts, they are produced from a variety of materials: plywood, glass, MDF, etc. GOST specifies that these fragments are attached to the frame in the following way: special grooves are created in the frame into which these elements are installed, or fixation occurs using decorative beads.
According to experts, the latter option is considered more practical: if the glass insert installed in the interior doors suddenly breaks, the home craftsman can replace it with a new one with his own hands. It will not be difficult to perform such an operation even for a beginner.
Variety of models
Paneled doors are made either from solid wood or from a combined material.
The current GOST regulates the following classification of these products according to the type of material used:
- Block made of valuable wood.
Typically, such interior structures are made from solid hornbeam, teak, oak or walnut. The panel inserts in such models are fastened together with tenon joints, so such door systems are distinguished by high strength and durability (GOST focuses on this point). - Coniferous wood construction.
The production technology provides that such a block, after manufacturing, must be coated with a special chemical composition: thanks to this, paneled doors of this type acquire excellent fire-fighting and anti-corrosion properties. Such designs are ideal for a country house or cottage. - Block made of combined material.
The main advantage of this design is its low cost. The production technology of this door system is as follows (GOST reflects this production feature): veneer made of valuable wood species is glued onto an MDF frame, and the product is coated with special impregnations and varnish on top. Of course, such interior doors are not as durable as products made from valuable wood, but with careful care they can last 4-5 decades.
The current GOST also regulates the finishing of paneled structures. The finishing of doors of this type is carried out using special water-based varnishes (acrylic). These finishing products are considered more environmentally friendly, and besides, they (unlike alkyd and nitro varnishes) do not change the color of wood fibers.
Please note that the block can have either a glossy or matte finish. The matte surface has a significant drawback: dust and other contaminants are very visible on it.
The downside of the glossy surface is the fact that it hides the luxurious structure of the wood. Therefore, when choosing panel doors, experts recommend choosing semi-matte or semi-gloss products.
Advantages of panel doors
What are the parts of a paneled door called?
As you know, each door block has its own strengths and weaknesses, and paneled interior doors are no exception. The main advantage of these structures is their durability and high strength.
The second advantage is excellent sound and heat insulation. Even if the block production technology involves the use of glass or stained glass inserts, such elements are attached to the door leaf using special frames, which impart structural integrity and provide the door with excellent insulating properties. And besides, such structures are not subject to drying out: they are not afraid of sudden temperature changes and high air humidity.
Moreover, the range of such products is also diverse. For example, you can purchase white paneled doors. In addition, those door systems, the production of which is carried out using glass inserts, can vary greatly from each other: one block may have colored glass, another block may have patterned or frosted glass, etc.
And, of course, the undeniable advantage of door systems of this type is the ability to make them yourself. Do-it-yourself interior structures will eliminate the need to adjust the product to the size of the opening. And besides, such canvases can have an original design.
Self-made design
Making paneled doors with your own hands first of all requires the desire of the master, as well as the presence of certain skills in working with wood.
The home craftsman will have to stock up on a small set of tools:
- construction meter;
- pencil;
- coarse and fine-grained sandpaper;
- screwdriver;
- chisel;
- wood hacksaw, etc.
In addition, you will need cutters for making paneled doors, as well as the entire necessary set of materials and fittings.
The first thing you need to do is measure the doorway correctly. Errors are unacceptable, because correcting them will be very difficult. After this, they make a box with their own hands and install it (under no circumstances should there be any distortions). Then they begin to design the paneled fabric.
What is a paneled door made of?
To do this, a sketch of the future sash is drawn and all its elements are detailed. Experts recommend that a beginner start by making a canvas with six panel inserts: the production technology of such a design is much easier than any other model.
Then the required length is measured on the timber and the excess part is sawed off. This operation is performed several times with your own hands. The result should be two main side posts, two cross members (the upper and lower parts of the sash), as well as slats and internal cross members. In order to ensure tight fastening of the individual elements, grooves and tenons are made, then these parts are lubricated with wood glue and connected. In places where panels will be fixed in the future, you need to make chamfers.
If the panels for interior doors made by yourself are made of wood, it is better to use solid wood for this (this will save the home craftsman from the additional headache of creating a prefabricated chamfer). The parts are cut out of solid wood, special cuts are made along their edges, after which these elements are secured with a chamfer.
If desired, the block can be decorated with carved wooden panels. But for this, the home craftsman must have the skills to work with the special equipment used to make such an artistic ornament.
Moreover, GOST specifies that inserts can also be glass. In this case, such elements are attached to the structure using special slats and jumpers (their length depends on the size of the inserts). The technology for manufacturing paneled structures also involves the use of glass inserts with painting, however, painting on such glass must be done before the insert is installed in the block.
At the final stage of manufacturing a panel door system, you do the tinting and varnishing of the surface with your own hands.
At home, varnishing can be as follows:
- transparent (only one layer of durable varnish is applied);
- tinted (the canvas is covered with colored dye);
- painted (apply several layers of glossy or matte varnish);
- painted with a shiny finish (this effect can be achieved by applying several layers of polyurethane-based varnish to the structure).
Then, when the varnish has dried, fittings are installed on the interior doors and their installation is carried out. This design will undoubtedly become the highlight of your interior!
Making paneled doors is becoming very popular. The demand for them is constantly growing, since this type of structure has a number of advantages:
- light door weight;
- relief surface;
- possibility of glazing;
- various front finishes;
- low price compared to a panel door.
Paneled doors consist of a wooden frame and inserts made of different materials. It is this feature that allows you to reduce the weight of the entire structure. The base is assembled from solid wood, laminated timber or MDF. Inserts can be made of the following materials:
- Fibreboard, MDF or plywood. Panels are made from thin sheets of wood that are fixed inside cutouts in the frame. Inserts can be painted, veneered or laminated.
- Glass. It adds additional decorativeness to the interior and further facilitates the design. Such doors are often installed to enter the kitchen or living room.
- Tree. This material is the most reliable and allows you to make different relief panels. The disadvantages are the high price and the difficulty of manufacturing thin sheets of solid wood.
Since the frame bears all the loads, it must be made of well-dried wood or MDF. It consists of 5 elements or more. The frame is made of 4 parts, and the number of remaining crossbars will depend on the number of panels. All parts are connected using tongue-and-groove fastening. If necessary, the inserts are fixed using glazing beads or overlays. This method of fastening allows you to quickly replace a damaged element or change the design of the door.
Preparation of tools and selection of material
You can start making panel doors with your own hands only if you have the necessary tools and equipment. Since all the elements will have to be turned with a hand router, you need to purchase suitable attachments. For manufacturing you will need the following tools:
- pencil, tape measure and square;
- sandpaper;
- wood hacksaw;
- a circular saw;
- milling cutter;
- level;
- drill;
- screwdriver, chisel and knife.
Additionally you need to purchase:
- wood glue or PVA;
- small nails without heads;
- door fittings (hinges, handles, locks, etc.);
- materials for finishing the door (varnishes, paints, etc.).
To make a reliable and high-quality paneled door, you need to choose the right materials for manufacturing. The frame is most often made from pine bars. The design will be easy to process, light weight and low price. The disadvantages are the short service life of this type of wood and the need for de-resining the material.
Larch can be a quality replacement. This material is as accessible as pine, but is more durable and strong. Also used for the box:
- hornbeam;
- birch;
- maple;
- oak, etc.
You can combine different species or choose MDF. The main condition is strength, resistance to changes in the external environment and microclimate. Therefore, MDF must be laminated or veneered.
Inserts are often made of plywood, fiberboard or glass. If decorative carving is planned, then wood is used. It all depends on the skills of the master.
Manufacturing process
First, you need to create a drawing that will show all the dimensions and design features of the paneled door. It should be taken into account that the frame should be 4-6 mm smaller than the loot. When all the dimensions are known, they begin to create a wooden box.
Measure and cut 2 vertical posts and 2 horizontal ones. Also the required number of middleware. To form a perfectly even cut, use a circular saw or a sizing machine. If it is not possible to use these tools, then you can use a hacksaw and chisel. It is necessary to achieve an even cut so that the frame elements fit snugly against each other. Check this with a building level or square.
To fasten the parts together, grooves and tenons are made in the required places. They must match in size. The groove is made first, since the tenon is easier to fit. To do this, holes are drilled to the selected depth with a drill or on a drilling machine. The walls are cleaned with a chisel. To maintain a 90° wall angle, use a block. It is attached along the chiselling line.
If you have a router, you can make grooves quickly and efficiently. First, a template is made. Take a sheet of plywood and install restrictive slats. 2 are fixed along the router, 2 – across, taking into account the lengths of the groove and the device. Then a beam is placed under the plywood in which a hole must be made, and everything is secured. The fixation should be such that nothing moves out of place under the influence of the milling machine. Set the milling depth taking into account the thickness of the template and make a groove.
To make a tenon, the block is secured in a vice and the required number of cuts are made. Next, it is adjusted to fit the groove using a chisel. It should fit easily and tightly into the hole, but not fall out. The fastening points are additionally coated with wood glue or PVA.
The production of the panel begins when all the frame elements are ready. If the inserts are made from chipboard or plywood, they are cut according to the specified dimensions. In places where panels are installed in the frame, chamfers are made. Inserts can be made not only from solid wood, but also from pieces. They are connected to each other by a tongue-and-groove fastening. And for fastening with a chamfer, it is necessary to make cuts.
If you plan to make glass inserts, it is decorated before installation. The glass is secured with glazing beads, because they allow you to quickly replace the panel in case of damage.
Finishing is necessary not only for decoration purposes, but also to preserve wood, extend its service life and increase strength. Natural wood must be treated with antiseptic preparations and then covered with stain and varnish. This will protect the material from exposure to the external environment. It is better to use water-based acrylic varnishes. Unlike alkyds, they change the color of the wood to a lesser extent.
Doors can be painted, covered with veneer, film or laminate. For glass inserts that you plan to decorate with your own hands, it is better to use thermopolished glass. You can paint it, stick a film on it, or create any decoration.
Paneled doors are made not only in factory production. If you have basic carpentry skills and the necessary tools, you can make it yourself.
Nothing decorates cabinet furniture more than doors with embossed panels. The profiled edges of the posts and crossbars further emphasize the contours of the panel, and counter-profile connections ensure strength and durability. You can easily form the elements of such a connection, consisting of a profile on the inner edges of the frame and a corresponding counter-profile at the ends of the crossbars using a set of special cutters.
Learn the anatomy of a door
Before you make your first cut, familiarize yourself with a few terms related to panel construction. The panel is a panel that is inserted into the tongues of a frame consisting of vertical posts, between which horizontal crossbars are installed. A profile cutter selects a tongue at the edges of the posts and crossbars and at the same time forms a decorative profile (photo A). A counter-profile cutter makes a short tenon (ridge) that fits into the tongue, and a cutout is formed that exactly matches the relief formed by the profile cutter. Despite the fact that one of the bonded surfaces is formed by end fibers, the connection has good strength, since it has a significant gluing area.
Calculate the dimensions carefully first
Overlay doors usually extend beyond the edges of the opening by 9-10mm all the way around, so if you choose this style the finished door should be 18-20mm higher and wider than the opening. Mortise doors fit completely into the opening flush with the front side of the body, and uniform gaps of 2-3 mm wide must be left around them. Therefore, the height and width of such a door should be 4-6 mm less than the height and width of the opening. The length of the posts is usually equal to the height of the door, and the length of the crossbars depends on the width of the posts and the set of cutters used (see figure “How to calculate the length of the crossbars”). If the profile cutter selects a tongue that is 9mm deep, this dimension must be added twice (18mm) to account for the tenons at both ends of the crossbar.
Prepare material for frame parts
To ensure tight connections, all crossbars and posts must have the same thickness. After processing the boards on a planer, cut them lengthwise into pieces of the required width and give the posts and crossbars the required length. Save a few scraps for making test joints. Then determine which sides of the pieces will be right and mark them (photo B).
Quick tip! For crossbars with a length of 150 mm or less, it is better to first mill the profile on a long piece, and then saw it into individual crossbars of the required length.
How to mill a profile
Having secured the router to the table, insert a profile cutter into the collet and adjust its offset by placing scraps from the blanks for the frame parts nearby. Position the cutter so that the face (facing down) forms the full contour of the profile while leaving enough material on the other side of the tongue (Photo C).
Once the offset is adjusted and recorded, use a straightedge to align the router table rip fence with the cutter bearing (photo D). Attach combs to the stop and table, pressing the workpieces tightly and ensuring uniform processing (photo E). Mill the profile on all the crossbars and posts, as well as on a test cut, with which you will then adjust the reach of the second cutter.
Learn to mill a counter profile correctly
Set the posts aside and replace the profile cutter with a counter-profile cutter. Using the scrap piece on which the profile is formed, adjust the cutter overhang (photo F). Next, align the rip fence with the bearing the same way as in the previous step.
A counter cutter removes material across the grain, so to feed the test cut at right angles to the fence, use a pusher from the scrap board to help prevent chipping (photo G). Make a pass and adjust the reach of the cutter more accurately (photo H).
When the faces of both parts of the test joint coincide in the same plane, mill a counter profile on both ends of all crossbars, placing them on the router table with the marks facing down.
Determine the dimensions of the panel
If the panel is made of plywood or wooden board, its dimensions should be 2 mm less than the distance between the bottom of the opposite tongues in the door frame.
This will allow the connections of the frame parts to be tightly tightened and will provide free space for expanding the shield. To determine the width of the panel, you simply need to subtract 2 mm from the length of the crossbar. And to find out the length of the panel, dry assemble the door frame, measure the distance between the tongues of the crossbars and reduce it by 2 mm.
Door assembly
Having assembled the door and panel dry, make sure that all parts are made correctly and that the joints are tight. Disassemble the door, apply glue to the counter-profile of the crossbars on one side and connect them to the stand. Insert the panel into place without gluing it, then glue the second post to the crossbars and tighten the frame with clamps (photo I).
How to make a relief panel
Flat panels made of plywood or planks are also suitable for doors with counter-profile joints, but raised panels (sometimes called volumetric), such as those shown in the photo in this article, look much more interesting. If you have a powerful router with a speed controller, make relief panels using a horizontal router. Thanks to its large mass, it easily copes with the job, removing material with carbide cutters, leaving a clean and smooth surface. These cutters are available with different profile options, and they
They work better at a relatively low speed (usually no more than 10,000 rpm). To get good results, process the edges of the panel in several shallow passes, as shown in the photo. First, mill the end edges of the panel, and then the longitudinal edges.
Do-it-yourself paneled doors with counter-profile connections
Profile cutters give you the opportunity to choose one of several profiles - from the traditional rounded with a ledge ("marigold"), characteristic of projects in the "country" style, to the more refined "heel".
THE BEST SIDES SHOULD BE ON THE OUTSIDE
To help you orient the parts correctly when routing the joint members, mark the face of the posts and crossbars.
INSTALL THE LONG STOP
The steel ruler, pressed against both parts of the rip fence, should barely touch the cutter bearing. When rotating the cutter by hand, make sure that it does not touch the stop.
ADJUSTING THE PROFILE CUTTER REACH
Place the scraps from the frame parts nearby and raise the cutter so that the profile is completely formed and at least 5-6 mm of material remains above the tongue.
THE FEED SHOULD BE EVEN
Pressing the workpieces against the table with the marked edge, mill the profile on all posts and crossbars. Feed them smoothly at the same speed to ensure a smooth surface.
ADJUST THE COUNTER PROFILE CUTTER
Align the bottom edge of the top cutter with the top edge of the tongue so that the tenon of the crossbar is flush with the tongue.
REMOVE THE EXCESS SLOWLY
Adjust the cutter reach and fence position for the first shallow pass. Start with the end two edges to reduce chipping and work all four edges before sliding the fence back for the next pass.
GRADUALLY APPROACHING THE RESULT
Once the fence is flush with the bearing, raise the cutter in small increments until the desired edge thickness is achieved.
THE PUSHER SERVES SEVERAL PURPOSE
To form a counter-profile at the end of the crossbar, press the end of the test piece against the longitudinal stop and a rectangular piece of board that serves as a pusher. The backing board also helps prevent chipping.
CORRECT CUTTER SETTINGS
If after a test run there is excess material left on the top edge of the tenon, lower the cutter. But you need to raise it if you see excess material on the bottom edge.
ASSEMBLY WITHOUT PROBLEMS
Properly made counter-profile joints close tightly, requiring only slight clamp pressure, and help achieve squareness during assembly.
To prevent the panel from rattling
If the panel is too small, or its thickness is less than the width of the tongue in the frame parts, the door is likely to rattle and knock. If you hear a knocking sound during dry assembly, insert elastic spacers into the tongue to fill the gap.
Paneled canvases are becoming popular. Almost anyone can make them at home. To ensure that the material chosen for the job is not wasted, think through the subtleties that the door will have, including even minor details.
Product selection
Peculiarities
Before you start designing a door, thoroughly understand its structure. Find out what features it has. The main difference between such doors is the presence of inserts that make the product sophisticated and elegant.
Attention! Due to the fact that special technology is used in the production process, the door becomes not only reliable, but also elegant.
Installation and its varieties:
- A blank sheet made of plywood. It consists of elements made from sheets of plywood, fixed inside with self-tapping screws;
Blind installation - With glass inserts. Glass inserts are used to fill the canvas. The canvas looks decorative and is light in weight.
Insert - Made of wood. This design is considered durable and reliable. The insert in this case is made from thin wooden sheets, but it should be noted that this way the production costs a large sum of money.
Natural wood The technological manufacturing process is that the frame and insert are connected to each other. This is done using special fastenings with glazing beads. Manufacturing also involves other types of fastenings.
Tools and materials needed during the work process
In order for the door manufacturing process to be carried out correctly, theoretical knowledge will be required, as well as materials for the work.
To work you need:
- A hacksaw, which is used to work on wooden material;
- Screwdrivers of different diameters;
- A simple pencil and tape measure for measuring;
- Fine to medium sandpaper.
Hacksaw for woodworking Before you start work, you should clearly decide on the material from which the door will be made. For strength, you need high-quality wood species that have high resistance to any factors. Oak or ash are perfect for work. In addition, production can be made from pine. This material is also of high quality and low cost.
The panel is often made from plywood, due to which the final structure has insignificant mass and low cost. To achieve decorative qualities, use glass inserts.
Plywood panel Important! If you use frosted or additionally decorated glass to decorate your door, this will transform your home as a whole.
Frosted glass insert Materials for work:
- Initially, a frame is made, for which boards of sufficient thickness are used;
- Plywood for panels. During operation, this element can be replaced with glass. If you initially plan to use glass, consider having glazing beads;
- To make the initial preparation, glue and screws are used;
- Door fittings;
- Materials used for finishing painting.
Accessories Step-by-step instruction
First of all, measure the doorway. Build a box using a wooden beam. Currently, all blanks are sold on the construction market. This way you will save time and money.
Once the box is in place, fix it in the required position. To do this, the structure must be accurately measured.
Frame Panel and its production
Build process If the work is supposed to be done from an array, then you need to start preparing the sheets according to pre-made measurements. To make the assembly process easier, use the tongue-and-groove connection method.
Attention! If the workpieces are connected using glazing beads, then the assembly sequence will not matter at all.
If the door is equipped with glass inserts, then for a beautiful appearance many designers recommend using colored glass or one that is additionally decorated with film. In addition, if you use, for example, stained glass, the design can fit perfectly into absolutely any interior.
Benefits of DIY
If during the renovation process you and your whole family decided to install doors, this does not mean that you should go to the store to buy the finished product. For those who have at least some skills in home craftsmanship, it will not be difficult for them to build it themselves, without resorting to outside help.
Let's look at the advantages of making it yourself:
- Price. When you make it yourself, you will save a significant amount of money compared to the ready-made version presented in the store;
- When installing it yourself, you do not need to make additional adjustments, since the measurements taken will initially come to the rescue;
- The paneled version of the installation differs from its analogues mainly in that it is less exposed to external influences and is practically unaffected by various temperature indicators.
Help with decoration
After making the door, the last stage is decoration. Such manipulations are carried out not only for aesthetic reasons, but also in order to enhance the strength and reliability of the canvas. When using natural wood, the surface is covered with stain or varnish. With the help of such impregnation, a film is created that protects the material. The varnish also protects the finished product from high humidity.
In addition to these types of processing, you can use a paint coating, for example, in some neutral or, on the contrary, extraordinary color (if the interior requires it). If this option is not suitable, then it is possible to finish it with veneer or, for example, decorative film.
Decorated look The option of creating a contrast between the door and the panel is often used. That is, you can paint the vertical and transverse planks, and decorate the existing inserts with an unusual pattern or paint them in a different color scheme.
If you pay attention to the presence of glass, you can also decorate it yourself. For this purpose, special decorative materials are used. You can create a unique design or an unusual stained glass window. If you wish, you can depict family photographs or other pictures you like that bring positive emotions every day.
Making beautiful doors yourself is easy and without the help of qualified specialists. They will have not only a functional character, but also a decorative one, as they will express the individuality of their owner. In addition, you will be able to show not only your true skills, but also please your entire family and friends.
And see how the manufacturing process takes place and all its details in our video. You can take more useful information from it.
The basis of a paneled door is a frame made of smooth and dry boards 30-54 mm thick, assembled into a tenon. As a rule, piping with a thickness of 54 mm is used only for doors with a height of 2300 mm, entrance doors from the staircase to the apartment and external doors (Fig. 26, a). The width of the strapping boards is 90-150 mm. To facilitate the design, the harness can be assembled from two frames (external and internal), covered with fiberboard or plywood (Fig. 26, b). In this case, the elements of the outer and inner frames must be connected to each other using glue and dowels.
How to make paneled doors with your own hands - video
Rice. 26. Frame door trim design: a - solid, b - lightweight slatted
Panels are inserted and secured into the trim windows, which are made either flat or with figured decorative recesses (figares). A decorative overlay can be attached to the base of the flat panel, which can be additionally trimmed along the edges with slats. Panels of the so-called classic type are made from planed and press-glued boards of the same thickness as the trim. The panels are attached to the frame with wooden slats or corners, as well as in a tongue and groove. In the first case, a quarter can be selected in the binding, and then the panels are secured with a glazing bead on only one side; in the second, the edges of the panel are folded so that the narrow ridge fits into the groove of the binding. The frame can be smooth, then the edging slats are stuffed on both sides. In this case, a regular overhead fillet may move due to shrinkage of the canvas, and Unpainted stripes will appear on the painted surface. This can be avoided if you use a wide convex plinth, which is overlapped on the frame (Fig. 27).
Rice. 27. Installation of panels: a - fastening with a wide convex plinth overlapping
on the harness, b - fastening with a narrow plinth; c - fastening the glass with a square:
1 - door frame; 2 - glass; 3 - square; 4 - nail; 5 - hammer; 6 - gasket
Instead of wooden panels, glass can be installed in the doors.
Installing glass in door windows is somewhat different from glazing conventional windows. Typically, glass in a door frame is secured not with glazing beads in the folds, but with the help of wooden (sometimes plastic) angles (Fig. 27, c). This method of fastening, among other things, allows you to hide the untreated surface of the inner frame. After making the squares of the required size, they are installed in place without glass. This is necessary to check that the gap width and glass thickness match.
First, attach the angles to one side of the door. Nails without heads are recessed into the body of the corners. You can lubricate the inner surface of the angles with glue. Then the door is turned over and glass is installed. The glass in the frame must be fixed using glued wood chips or putty. The putty is prepared from wood sawdust mixed with PVA glue. After fixing the glass, install the angles on the other side.
When driving nails into squares, special care must be taken. To protect the glass from scratches, a sheet of cardboard or veneer is placed between the glass and the hammer, along which the hammer is moved. Recess the nails into the body of the square by 0.5-1 mm using a flat-blade screwdriver. The door remains in a horizontal position for 2-3 hours until the glue dries completely.
Door with panel edging with glazing beads
First, calculate the dimensions of the door and make a drawing of it. They start by measuring the doorway: width - from one side trim to the other, height - from the top trim to the finished floor. The obtained values determine the dimensions of the door parts. The assembled door is adjusted to the opening after manufacturing.
In the picture shown on rice. 28 doors with four panels, the width of the upper crossbar should be 120mm, the lock - 200mm, the bottom - 250mm, the longitudinal links - 120mm, the mullions - 115mm. With these dimensions, a door handle can be installed on the longitudinal link at a distance of 70mm from its edge.
Rice. 28. Door with edged panels: a - general view; 6 - panel sealing;
c - top view; g - jig for dowels: 1 - upper cross member; 2 - stand;
3 - upper middle; 4 - lock cross member; 5 - lower cross member;
6 - dowels 12 x 100 mm; 7 - sockets for dowels; 8 - lower middle; 9 - panel;
10 - glazing bead; 11 - panel ridge; 12 - gap 3 mm; 13 - cord made of insulating foam;
14 - door frame; 15 - clamp; 16 - wall; 17 - platband; 18 - jamb;
19 - cheeks 12x40x250 mm; 20 - hole center line
A good door requires good material.
Any straight-grain, oven-dried wood will do. For crossbars, longitudinal connections and mullions you will need blanks 50mm thick, and for panels it is better to take MDF boards. This material is very stable and prevents panels from swelling or shrinking due to changes in humidity. If it was not possible to find wide enough boards for the bottom and lock crossbars, they can be glued together from 2-3 narrow parts. The same is done when making panels from solid wood.
On the cross members and longitudinal braces, use a jointer to remove all warped and damaged areas. These parts must be completely flat, with parallel faces along their entire length. Their thickness is adjusted by planing to 37mm. The remaining 1mm allowance per side is needed for final planing and sanding. Then plan the boards to the desired width and saw them to length. Boards for longitudinal connections are sawn off with an allowance of 25 mm per side. It will be useful for adjustments when hanging.
Cross members and mullions are laid out on a flat surface. At the top of the future door, a centerpiece is placed so that it lies in the middle of the crossbar. In order not to confuse the parts or their front sides later, the blanks are marked. The layout is finally checked with a square. One edge of the square is brought end to end to the middle, the end of the cross member is moved flush with the other edge and the cross member is pressed. The same operation is performed on the other side of the mullion. Having completed the alignment, marks are made on the internal edges of the cross member for the abutment points of the centerpiece. Similarly, mark the position of the mullions on the lock and bottom crossbars.
To work with dowels, use a conductor
. Its use allows you to automatically align dowels and minimize the number of measurements and marking lines. To make the jig, a block 250 mm long is sawed off, the thickness matching the thickness of the frame, and at a distance of 30 mm from the end of the block and exactly in the middle of its longitudinal axis, a through hole with a diameter of 12 mm is drilled vertically with a feather drill (Fig. 28, d). After this, the cheeks are glued and nailed, on which the location of the hole axis is marked.
When drilling holes for dowels to a depth of 55 mm, the jig is placed on the end of the part and the sockets are drilled through the hole in the jig. To transfer the required distance from the edge of the workpiece or between the axes of the dowels, appropriate pencil marks are made on the jig.
To avoid mistakes when marking the joints of crossbars with longitudinal bracings, the mullions are clamped between the ends of the crossbars and this assembly is laid on a vertical strapping post. Then the position of the crossbars is marked on the edges of the rack. Now you need to mark the axes of the holes for the middle dowels on the lock and bottom crossbars. To do this, install a jig with a guide hole in the middle of the end of the lock crossbar. Mark on the jig where the top edge of the cross member coincides with the overhanging part of the jig, and make a mark “A”. Drill a hole. Install the jig along mark “A” to the corresponding mark on the vertical stand and also drill a hole
The same operations are performed with the lower cross member. But it is wider, so they make another mark on the conductor - “B”. Taking a mark from the bottom edge or face of the cross member, transfer it to the bottom mark on the rack.
To ensure the strength of the connections, homemade oak dowels with a diameter of 12 x 100 mm are needed.
To remove excess glue and air from the joint, two longitudinal channels are sawn through each dowel, the edges of the dowels are chamfered and the fit to the holes is checked.
Glue is applied to all dowels and introduced into all holes of the crossbars and mullions. Press the parts together and place vertical posts under the ends of the crossbars. Install the ribs of the crossbars according to the marks on the racks. If all angles are right, the cross members will line up exactly with the marks on the uprights. If not, lightly press one end of the rack and watch how the crossbar moves relative to the mark. Adjust the position of the jumpers with clamps so that they align with the marks in all four corners.
After gluing the crossbars and mullions, you can connect the vertical posts on the dowels. Place one clamp above and below each cross member. Check the flatness of the assembly. To maintain horizontality, spacers are placed under the lower clamp of each cross member, controlling the flatness of all frame elements using a ruler or long level. All deflections are compensated with gaskets, aligning the parts.
While the frame is drying, you can work on the panels. They are cut 6 mm less in height and width than the frame openings, that is, a 3 mm gap is obtained around the perimeter. It is needed to compensate for changes in the size of the panel due to changes in humidity. A 10mm thick ridge is selected along the perimeter of the panel. If the panels are made of thin material, such as fiberboard or plywood, a comb is, of course, not needed. But in any case, the edges must be chamfered. It is best to do this with a shaped cutter, achieving minimal chipping of the material at the ends.
Before installing the panels, it is worth adjusting the door to the opening. One frame is lighter than the assembled door and is easier to work with. First, install the frame in the opening and wedge it evenly with wedges. Having noted all the defects on its edges, provide a 3mm gap between the frame and the floor. Remove the frame from the opening, carefully plan out the defective areas and check the fit again. If the necessary clearances are provided, remove the frame and cut a 5° bevel on the edges of the vertical posts (Fig. 28, c). These bevels will ensure the door opens and closes freely.
Now you can attach the panels to the frame. To do this, you will need 10 x 10mm glazing beads, cut from an oak edging strip. The glazing beads are trimmed “on the bevel” and the door is prepared for finishing. Intersecting parts are cleaned or planed flush. Sand all door parts (panels, frame and glazing beads) with 150-grit sandpaper and then 220-grit sandpaper. Varnish them before assembly.
After the varnish has dried, edging beads are nailed to the inner edges of the door frame flush with the outer plane using nails 15 mm long. To avoid splitting the wood, auxiliary holes are drilled for all nails. Turn the door over to the other side and lay the panels. Between the ridge of the latter and the door frame, pieces of cord with a diameter of 6 mm made of insulating foam are laid, which will fix the panel. After this, the panels are fixed with the remaining glazing beads. The final finishing coat is then applied. They hang the door and lock it.
This door also has four panels, but unlike the previous one, its frame is assembled on spikes (Fig. 29).
Rice. 29. Door with panels in grooves;
a - general view; b - d - tenon joints of the upper, middle and lower crossbars:
1 - racks; 2 - upper cross member; 3 - lock cross member; 4 - bottom
cross member; 5 - upper middle; 6 - lower middle; 7 - upper panel;
8 - lower panel; 9 - key 24 x 60 mm; 10 - groove 12 x 12 mm
Pine boards with a moisture content of approximately 7% are suitable for work. At such humidity, the subsequent change in frame dimensions will be minimal. Given in table. 5 The dimensions of the parts required for the manufacture of one door with dimensions of 750 x 2030 mm can be easily changed for a door with other dimensions.
First, all workpieces are roughly sawed out in length and width. Then, in the middle of the long ribs of the posts, mullions and cross members, you need to cut out 12x12mm grooves. The mullions and lock crossbar should have grooves on both sides, while the remaining parts should have grooves only on the inside. The grooves can be selected with a chisel, a tongue and groove tool, a router, or cut out on a circular saw with a package of 10mm thick disks placed 12mm above the table. Place the disk on the workpiece and cut a groove in one of the parts, pressing the workpiece tightly against the ruler. Unfold the workpiece at the other end and once again pass the rack through the disk pack. As a result, in the middle of the part you will get a groove 12mm wide and 12mm deep. Before processing the rack, check the cut on the cutting board.
The grooves in the strapping can also be selected with a milling cutter of the required thickness or made manually. In the latter case, two grooves are planed out with a tongue and groove tool, then the middle between the cuts is removed with a chisel.
Now you need to mark and make tenons and grooves in the frame elements. The grooves must be parallel to the face of the workpiece and have a depth of 60 mm. The tenon should be of such a size that it fits tightly into the groove by hand without being forced into place with a hammer. To make it easier to insert the tenons into the rounded corners of the grooves, grind off their outer corners with cloth-based sandpaper. It is necessary to evenly round the ends of the tenon so that they match the shape of the groove in the rack. The strength of this connection depends on the fit of the tenon to the groove - the more closely they fit, the stronger the connection will be.
Having fitted the grooves and tenons tightly, the door frame can be assembled dry and checked for squareness. Measure the diagonals between opposite corners and if they are the same, the door will be rectangular. When assembling the frame, at the intersection of the mullions and the centers of the crossbars, to align them, insert four 24 x 60mm dowels.
Measure the distance in the windows between the frame elements and determine the dimensions of the panels. Cut the MDF panels to size and give them volume by hand or with a router, forming 12 x 12mm ridges around the perimeter.
Before gluing and clamping the finished door make the necessary adjustments to all parts and check its squareness again by measuring the diagonals.
The door with glued tenons and inserted panels is placed in a wedge press or a set of clamps and tightened. At this time, when tightening the clamps, make sure that the door remains level. Leave the door clamped in the clamps for a day to prevent the parts from moving until the glue is guaranteed to cure.
Hang the finished door and nail it to the frame as described above. To prevent knots from showing through the paint, coat the door with two coats of shellac-based primer and finish with two coats of oil-based semi-gloss paint.
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