Lilac is a flowering shrub with lush clusters of delicate flowers, delighting with an equally delicate and delicate aroma. This plant lends itself well to pruning, which allows you to decorate the area with single decorative forms, groups, and even living fences.
Where to plant lilacs
The best conditions for lilacs are as follows: flat place; the soil is moist, with good drainage and acidity values close to neutral; the passage of groundwater at least one and a half meters from the surface; sunlit most of the day; shelter from drafts. Lilacs do not grow in marshy or frequently flooded areas. In these cases, if there is no other possibility, it is planted on hills built like an alpine hill.
Acidic soil must be treated with lime or dolomite flour before planting. Lilac tolerates partial shade, but in the shade it weakens, growth and development slows down, blooms poorly and not abundantly. But in a illuminated place it is a bright shrub with lush greenery, strong shoots and many inflorescences.
In areas exposed to the wind, especially in the cold season, lilac buds freeze, which affects flowering. Choose a warm, sunny place for planting, sheltered from the wind, for example, among tall perennial plants.
When and how to plant lilacs
Lilac takes root well; all it needs is compliance with planting conditions, healthy planting material and attentive care.
Did you know? One day, the ancient Greek goat-like god Pan became inflamed with feelings for the nymph Syringa. The beauty ran away in fright, without responding to Pan's sympathy. Fleeing from Pan who was pursuing her, Syringa stopped at a river that blocked her path. She appealed to the river god for help, and he turned her into a lush bush with delicate lilac flowers. Since then, lilac has been called the name of a beautiful nymph.
Optimal time to plant shrubs
The best time to plant lilacs is August-September. During this period, seedlings have time to take root before frost. Plant the plant in the evening or on a cloudy day. It is possible to plant in the spring before the buds awaken. In this case, you need to prepare the soil for planting in the fall.
How to choose planting material
The solution to the question: how to grow lilacs on a plot begins with choosing a seedling. A lilac seedling should have green leaves, a well-branched root system with densely growing thin roots.
The best age for a seedling is 2-3 years, the plant can be either grafted or self-rooted, and the height of the seedling is from 50 to 70 cm, the diameter of the root lobe is about 30 cm. Such plants tolerate replanting more easily and take root more easily; their root system is less damaged. Keep this in mind for the future when you dig up your own seedlings: the roots cannot be damaged, the seedling is dug up with a clod of earth.
Lilac planting scheme
When planting, first, sort out the hole for the seedling: in fertile soil, the depth of the hole is equal to the length of the roots (up to 30 cm); on poor soils, the hole measures a meter by a meter. Place drainage at the bottom of the hole (brick fragments, large pebbles), fertilize with soil mixed with humus (15 kg), wood ash (200 g), and superphosphate (30 g).
Plant the bush with the roots spread out; leave the root collar at ground level, if you do not want a lot of root shoots to develop, 2 cm above the ground level. If you plan to propagate by shoots, on the contrary, deepen the root collar. Sprinkle the seedling with soil, compact it around the trunk and water. After the soil has absorbed water, mulch with peat or other material.
How and what to feed lilacs
If the soil was well fertilized when planting, fertilizing is not needed in the first 2-3 years. Next, to stimulate growth, lilacs are fertilized in the spring with nitrogen compounds, and for better flowering, with phosphorus compounds. Once every 2 years, feed with potassium fertilizers after flowering.
Important! Nitrogen mineral fertilizers are contraindicated in the second part of the growing season. You cannot overdo it with nitrogen: lilacs bloom worse, they send out more shoots, which do not have time to get stronger and freeze slightly in winter.
Do not overuse organic nitrogen fertilizers for lilacs in the spring: manure, chicken droppings - this will also affect flowering. Watering lilacs is necessary in the first year after planting for good survival of seedlings. Adult bushes are watered only during dry periods.
Rules for pruning lilacs, whether it needs to be pruned
Lilac pruning is necessary to keep the bushes neat and elegant. As the lilac fades, it partially loses its attractiveness. By nature, the shoots of the bush grow too quickly and a little sloppy: in all directions, becoming very thick.
When is lilac pruning necessary?
The optimal time is the period before the sap begins to move through the branches - early spring. In summer, only damaged or useless shoots are removed. The calendar will tell you when to prune lilacs: in summer, the results of pruning can be used as cuttings or scion. After the flowering period, dry inflorescences are carefully removed, trying not to damage the leaves. Broken and dried branches can be removed from the bush during the entire period of development - flowering. Grafted plants are cleaned mainly of abundant wild growth.
Attention! It is not recommended to form lilac bushes in the fall - in winter the branch that has not healed from the cut will freeze.
How to prune correctly
Forming a bush “naturally” will look good against the backdrop of a rustic style in the garden. To form such a crown, a base is created. The bush is formed from 3 - 4 stem branches, removing in the first year all crookedly growing branches and directed inward. If 2 branches of approximately equal development are formed, growing crosswise, one of them, the weaker one, is removed. The branches of the base are shortened by half the length, leaving buds oriented in the direction of growth of future branches.
In the second year, all branches that have grown inside the bush are cut off, annual shoots are cut down to the buds, from which shoots that form a shape will grow. The main task this year is to grow the crown evenly, without voids and chaotic directions. Once this is done, trimming is stopped. Next, you need to maintain shape, sometimes removing damaged branches or unnecessary shoots growing inward.
If there are a lot of bushes, the formation can be made simpler. For the first couple of years, let the bush develop freely, and then cut off all the weak shoots that interfere with each other, leaving the strong ones. After flowering, you can carefully trim the branches so that they all look the same.
To form a lilac in the form of a tree - a trunk - an annual bush is shortened at the height of the trunk, leaving 3-4 buds. The shoots that grow from these buds form the same way as a bush, laying the foundation of the crown from them. Next, you need to cut off all the shoots in the trunk area and thin out the crown.
Lilac propagation
There are several ways to propagate lilacs. Having understood them, each gardener will choose the most suitable one for himself.
Interesting! Elizabeth I Tudor, Queen of England and Ireland, was delighted with the gift from the Austrian Emperor. The Austrian autocrat brought a lilac bush from Istanbul. Lilac became one of the Queen's favorite flowers.
Seeds
Seed collection occurs at the end of autumn in humid weather so that the seeds do not accidentally spill. The seed pods are dried for several days, the seeds are shaken out of them, and debris is removed.
Seeds need to be stratified: sprinkle with wet sand, pour into containers with holes in the bottom and place for 2 months in a room with a temperature of 0 to 5 degrees Celsius. In March, they are sown in a box with steamed soil (to prevent diseases). Depending on the variety, seedlings appear after 10 days or 2-3 months.
When the second pair of leaves is formed, the sprouts are planted in seedling boxes at a distance of 3 cm. They are planted in open ground in May. You can sow before winter in a snowy crust. The seeds are buried 1.5 cm into the soil, and in the spring they are planted in boxes and grown.
Cuttings
Cutting lilacs with lignified shoots does not give results; this is rather an exception to the rule. Let's consider propagation by green shoots. Cuttings are prepared at the beginning of flowering. The cutting should have 1 internode and 2 buds. The lower cut is made 1 cm away from the bud, the leaves are removed. For better rooting, treat with a growth stimulator before planting. Plant at a depth of 1 cm.
Lilac propagation by cuttings in the spring is also possible at home: you can root it in a container with a transparent lid. To do this, prepare nutritious soil and coarse sand. The temperature should be maintained between 25-28 degrees Celsius. Spray the sprouts daily with water from a spray bottle. After a month, roots will form, and in the fall you can plant them in the ground on the site, protecting them from freezing.
Root shoots
The first shoots are separated in early June before the shoots turn brown. Before separation, the soil around the donor bush must be moistened. Since the roots are still weak, carry out the procedure on a cloudy day so that they do not dry out. The length of the roots should be 3-5 cm. Place wet sand or peat at the bottom of the picking box, plant the seedlings there and spray with water. Then plant in a cold greenhouse at a distance of 5 cm.
For the first 7 days, the plants are under film and sprayed twice a day. Then the film is removed and watering occurs as needed. The optimal growing period is two growing seasons. Then the bushes are planted in a permanent place. Care consists of maintaining soil moisture and thinning if necessary. The soil around the tree trunks is mulched.
Mass flowering of such bushes begins at 5-7 years of age. Despite the late flowering, this method of propagation gives the shrub longevity.
Vaccination
There are several methods of vaccination, let's talk about the most common ones.
Copulation- This is a method when the tissues of the scion and rootstock most closely match. The shoots of the rootstock and scion should have the same thickness. Copulation is carried out at the root collar into a standard at the selected height and into the crown. Each branch of the backbone is grafted separately. If the actions are performed correctly, the scion will grow together after 2.5 months.
Simple copulation or oblique cut carried out before the onset of sap flow. The cuttings are cut at an angle of 45 degrees to 2 cm in length, and the rootstock is also cut. The scion is pressed against the rootstock and tied tightly.
English copulation. The cuts are made at an angle of 45 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the branches. To increase the contact area and connect the scion and rootstock more tightly and firmly, longitudinal cuts are made on both sections.
Lilac is considered an unpretentious shrub. On the territory of Russia there are about 20 varieties growing in the natural environment as wild plants. In order for the plant to bloom luxuriantly and delight with its decorative appearance, gardeners have to accumulate experience over the years on how to care for lilacs. Dense bushes with faded panicles and broken branches are not only untidy, but also dangerous for surrounding crops. Improper care, as well as its absence, provoke the development of pathogenic processes in the crown.
Spring flowering after feeding
Contrary to the popular belief that lilac is a moisture-loving plant, experienced gardeners do not recommend irrigating it frequently. Stagnation of water in the hole provokes the development of fungal diseases.
The watering schedule depends on the time of year and the age of the bush:
Soil cultivation
When caring for garden lilacs, attention is paid to cultivating the soil. Shrub holes, like root beds, require regular care. Mandatory items are:
- loosening,
- weeding,
- mulching.
Loosening the soil under a bush
As the crust forms on the surface of the tree trunk circle, loosening is carried out. For this purpose, rippers and fan rakes are used. Tools must be clean and free of rust and oxides. Dull, dirty blades can damage lilac rhizomes and pose a threat to soil contamination.
This procedure helps improve soil aeration and stimulates the flow of oxygen to the roots of the plant. In the spring, the soil is cultivated weekly, in the summer - as the soil crust forms. In August, the soil under the bush is dug up to a depth of 15 cm without breaking up or loosening the lumps. It is believed that this technique contributes to better rooting of shrubs.
Removing weeds and root suckers
Clearing the bushes provides additional aeration and allows for proper redistribution of soil nutrients. If possible, weeds are pulled out along with their seed boxes and rhizomes. In some cases, the practice is to remove the top part of the plant.
The most troublesome and painstaking task is weeding lilacs to remove ingrown nettles. This weed often grows in the same hole with a bush, which is why their root systems are intertwined, and removing nettles becomes problematic. Regular cutting of nettle stems under a stump allows you to minimize risks.
The regrown lilac shoots are pulled out of the soil along with the roots, then cut off closer to the place where they branch from the trunk. The cut areas are covered with tar or garden pitch.
Mulching under a lilac bush
Mulch is an organic powder that prevents moisture from evaporating from the surface of the hole and protects bare roots from drying out. Mulching allows you to minimize the growth of side shoots and weeds. Sawdust is used as mulching mixtures; dry straw, pine needles, nut shells, and humus are suitable. A protective layer of 4-7 cm is poured into the hole after loosening and watering.
The use of these soil cultivation techniques allows not only to improve the nutrition of the bush, but also to increase the immune potential of the soil.
Seasonal feeding of lilacs
The flowering perennial does not have serious requirements for the composition of the soil and develops equally well on both podzolic and clay soils. In order for the bush to have lush flowering, it is enough to fertilize it regularly. Conventionally, all baits are classified into organic and mineral.
Organic fertilizers are classified as complex fertilizers, since they contain potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen compounds. Their main advantage is environmental friendliness. Beginning gardeners need not worry about overdosing on organic matter. The soil gratefully accepts any amount of natural compounds.
Mineral bait differs from organic bait in a more complex application technology. It is recommended to add nitrogen before flowering; it is necessary for shoot growth. Since June, complex formulations have been used; at the end of the season, the emphasis is on phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which allow strengthening the root system and laying flowering buds for next year. This rule is taken into account not only when organizing lilac, peony, weigela, but also other garden perennials. Nitrogen fertilizers applied at the end of summer will provoke the growth of young shoots that will not have time to get stronger before winter. Therefore, they should be left until spring.
Video about the rules of seasonal feeding.
When does lilac need organic fertilizer?
The organic category includes:
- compost;
- vermicompost;
- bird droppings, mullein, manure;
- humus;
- sleeping tea, banana peels are used less often, but the benefits are no worse;
- wood ash;
- peat.
Organic matter is added to the soil by digging, mulching, and watering. In the first case, several holes are dug around the bush with a depth of no more than 10 cm. When filling the holes, it is necessary to ensure that the roots are not damaged. Fertilizer is poured into the prepared depressions, then covered with earth. Before feeding lilacs with organic matter, you need to make sure that they are not affected by soil fungus.
In the second case, litter, manure, humus and peat are used as nutrient cushions. At the beginning of the growing season, owners of country plots pour a 10-centimeter layer of dry organic matter into the holes with lilacs. Bookmarking is carried out once every 2-3 years. During watering, the nutritional components of the cushion, along with moisture, will seep into the soil and nourish the roots of the plant.
For watering, bird droppings and mullein are infused for 7-10 days.
Pour 1 part of organic matter into a bucket, add 3 parts of water, and cover with a lid. The contents are ready for use when the mass has lightened and began to ferment. The aqueous solution is filtered and used for irrigation at a concentration of 1:10. If chicken manure was used, then dilute it in a ratio of 1:20.
The application rate is 1-3 buckets, taking into account the age of the plant. Liquid organic matter can be fed in the spring for flowering and shoot growth. The procedure is carried out three times from April to May with an interval of 2 weeks.
Mineral preparations for spring, summer, autumn
In early spring, as soon as the buds swell on the lilac, it needs nitrogen. For shrubs, buy urea, ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, nitrophoska is suitable. One of the selected preparations is sprinkled on the plant at the rate of 15 g per 1 m2, or a 10% solution is prepared. Nitrogen is applied twice per season: at the beginning and end of April with an interval of 20 days.
Lilacs are fertilized in the first half of summer using phosphorus preparations. These mixtures (flour, precipate, superphosphate and double superphosphate) are necessary for the bush to increase the absorption properties of the rhizome and speed up development. Feeding is carried out once in June, immediately after the lilacs bloom. The calculation of the drug is the same as for nitrogen.
In the fall, in the first ten days of September, the bushes are fertilized with potassium (potassium nitrate, potassium chloride, potassium magnesium). It is necessary to prepare for wintering, promotes the rooting of plants and the formation of next year's flower buds. Apply 30-35 g of potassium nitrate in September under the bush when digging.
Potassium chloride with soil
You can simultaneously add 30 g of potassium nitrate and double superphosphate. Mineral fertilizing can be replaced with a nutrient solution with wood ash, prepared at the rate of 250 g of ash per bucket of liquid. It won’t hurt to bring it in for digging in the spring to a depth of 6-8 cm.
Experienced farmers claim that 50 g/m² of ash can completely replace potassium fertilizer, and 100 g/m² can satisfy the crop’s need for phosphorus.
In addition to the listed preparations, there are also complex mineral mixtures for garden crops. Fertilizer for lilac is selected taking into account its characteristics among baits for decorative deciduous crops.
Video with agricultural techniques for planting and care.
The priority component of care is pruning
Caring for lilacs in the spring involves adjusting the bush. There are several types of pruning suitable for crops:
All pruning is carried out in early spring, before the sap begins to flow. However, comprehensive care for lilacs after flowering includes sanitary pruning. After the bush has faded, 90% of the unripe panicles are cut off. 10% is left so that the plant goes through a full growing season.
When caring for shrubs, owners of suburban areas are guided by its age:
- At the age of 0 to 3 years, seedlings are grafted, fertilized, formative pruning, and provided with regular watering.
- In the period from 4 to 8 years, the bushes need maintenance pruning, feeding and watering twice a day.
- At the age of 9, lilacs undergo a rejuvenating haircut. After rejuvenating pruning, the plant repeats the vegetative cycle, so the age count must begin again.
When organizing seasonal care, you must remember that without watering, fertilizing and pruning you will not be able to achieve gorgeous flowering. Over time, the bush will turn into a thicket, the inflorescences will become small and unsightly.
Lilacs, with their unique aroma that cannot be confused with other plants, boast a reputation as one of the easiest garden shrubs to grow. Lilac adapts perfectly to a wide variety of climates, settles in gardens for decades, is frost-resistant, gas- and drought-resistant. But to call lilac a completely maintenance-free crop would be a very big mistake. After all, this shrub retains its abundance of flowers and beauty only if it is given at least minimal care.
Dwarf lilac in a flower garden. © Monrovia
Does lilac need care?
Lilac is a shrub with an almost impeccable reputation. It copes well with frost and urban conditions. Not afraid of dust and gas pollution, not demanding on soils, adaptable to lighting. You can even use lilac in garden design in different ways: there is a place for this beautiful flowering shrub in an alley, in hedges, on a lawn, in a flower bed or garden bed. But lilacs are not at all one of the plants that can be “planted and forgotten.”
To admire its fragrant clouds, you need to devote time to pruning every year. And it will be impossible to achieve abundant, long-lasting flowering without watering, fertilizing, and maintaining proper soil condition. Caring for lilacs is not complicated, but consists of the minimum procedures necessary for the normal development of the shrub. There are some important rules here.
Rule 1. Watering not only after planting
Lilacs are considered so hardy that they do not require regular watering. This shrub does not need systemic procedures, but this does not mean that lilacs are not watered at all. Maintenance is not limited to the first procedure of abundant watering after planting.
Watering lilacs is carried out throughout the flowering period and in the spring during the active growth of shoots (of course, only when natural precipitation is insufficient). In the summer, after flowering, watering is carried out only on the hottest days: the plant is not afraid of drought, but it still needs to be protected from overheating.
Lilacs are watered throughout the active season. © tropper2000 Rule 2. Feeding depending on age
Lilacs need a different approach to fertilizing immediately after planting and after reaching optimal size. These plants cannot be fed until they are completely rooted and in preparation for winter: lilacs are fed only during the period of active growth, in the first half of the season.
In the first year after planting and at a young age, lilacs do not need fertilizing. The only exception is planting in depleted soil, which simply does not have enough nutrients for normal growth. In this case, for young lilacs, two feedings are applied per year. After winter, when signs of the beginning of the growth of young branches are visible on the bush, the first feeding is carried out. And the second is carried out in mid-summer: at the end of June or beginning of July. From the second year after planting in early spring, nitrogen or organic fertilizers can be applied to any lilacs.
Adult lilacs are fed differently. From the third or fourth year, 50-60 g of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate or urea) are applied to each bush once per season (most often in early spring). In the summer, after flowering, lilacs are fed with organic fertilizers, incorporating mullein solution or ash into the soil. “Autumn” fertilizing (in August-early September) is applied only once every 2-3 years, using potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (30 g of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers or 55-60 g of mixture).
For any lilacs, you can mix organic and mineral fertilizers. Manure is preferable for young lilacs, and humus for adults. When combined with organic matter, it is better to reduce a single portion of mineral fertilizers from 50-60 g to 30-40 g.
Lilacs are fertilized only in cloudy weather or in the evening, after watering or rain. Fertilizers can be either dissolved in water or incorporated into the soil.
Rule 3. Three types of lilac pruning
If lilacs are “simple” in some way, it’s not in pruning. After all, this much-loved shrub requires regular cleaning and shaping. Pruning begins in the third or fourth year, when skeletal branches begin to form. And just one pruning is not enough; three types of these procedures are carried out for lilacs:
1. Basic trimming(stimulating flowering) is necessary for all types of lilacs without exception. In order for the bushes to bloom profusely next year, it is necessary to prune the faded inflorescences in time, because the flower buds of this shrub are formed only on summer shoots. The main pruning is carried out immediately after flowering, and not in the fall.
2. Anti-aging pruning. It is only necessary on adult and old lilacs. Timely rejuvenation avoids the need for radical rejuvenation and skipping flowering. For rejuvenation, thickening, excess shoots on the bushes are removed annually, forming strong skeletal branches and a healthy bush with 5 to 10 well-placed shoots.
This rejuvenation is carried out in early spring, before the buds awaken. But if, nevertheless, there is a need to carry out radical rejuvenation on old lilacs, then all shoots, without exception, are cut down to fairly low stumps, completely removing all unnecessary thickening branches. Next year the lilac will recover and if it produces inflorescences, it will only be small and single. But every year, with proper formation of the bush, the lilac will bloom more abundantly and more beautifully.
3. Formative pruning. Lilac is a predominantly landscape and picturesque shrub, and forming a crown and giving it a certain outline is used very rarely. The only exception is the removal of root shoots, weak, inward-growing, damaged, dry shoots, which is necessary for any lilac to form strong skeletal shoots.
And formation as such is carried out only in three cases:
- in regular gardens, lilacs are given a more strict shape, setting a growth vector from a young age and slightly cutting off the shoots to limit the growth of the crown and give a silhouette (for example, for a spherical and umbrella-shaped crown, the lower shoots are removed and the upper shoots are thickened, etc.);
- for hedges and tunnels, the tops of densely growing bushes are cut off, and the side shoots are pruned twice a year, in spring and autumn, to achieve the desired contours of the hedge;
- To form a lilac into a trunk, one central skeletal shoot is left, it is regularly “cleaned” of lateral branches, and the crown is formed at the top into a “cloud,” limiting its growth.
The main pruning of lilacs is carried out immediately after flowering. © JensGade Rule 4. Loosening the soil must be regular
In order for lilacs to enjoy abundant flowering for many years and not suffer from any weather conditions, it is necessary to keep the soil loose and constantly restore its air and water permeability. Without loosening the soil, lilacs will suffer from soil compaction.
The soil for lilacs is loosened 3 or 4 times per season, combining it with weeding. The first loosening is carried out in early spring. It is better to carry out aeration after heavy rainfall or watering. But it is extremely important not to overdo it: for lilacs, the soil is loosened only 4-7 cm and no deeper.
Rule 5. Mulching is very important
It is possible to simplify the care of lilacs as much as possible and achieve better moisture retention, protect the root system from overheating, and preserve the quality of the soil and its structure only if you do not forget to constantly maintain a mulch layer in the lilac tree trunk circle. The first mulching for this shrub is created during planting, or rather, after abundant watering. For lilacs, the mulch layer should be from 5 to 7 cm. Subsequently, the mulch layer is renewed and maintained constantly, updating at least 2 times a year - in spring and autumn.
It is preferable to use the following as mulching materials for lilacs:
- peat;
- humus;
- half-rotted leaves;
- compost.
For young seedlings in the first winter, it is advisable to create a new protective mulching and covering layer of leaves or peat up to 10 cm high.
Lilacs in the garden. © Martha Stewart
Rule 6. Resilient does not mean invulnerable
Despite its reputation as an amazingly hardy shrub, lilacs suffer from both diseases and pests. Moreover, problems on healthy and strong bushes can appear both when adjacent to infected plants, and in bad seasons when care was insufficient to compensate for heat and drought. And it will be very difficult to cure lilacs if the lesion is not noticed in time. Inspect the bushes regularly, especially in the second half of the season, and notice the slightest signs of these unpleasant problems.
The most common diseases on lilacs are late blight and powdery mildew. The sooner a problem is identified, the easier it will be to deal with it. If the lilac is severely damaged, it will be difficult to cure it even with drastic pruning and regular treatments. Diseases on this shrub can be controlled with a simple Bordrosses mixture or with a variety of highly targeted fungicides.
The most common harmful insects on lilacs are leaf-eating pests and mites. Moreover, the spread of these pests leads to a rapid loss of decorativeness and practically to “baldness.” You need to fight insects with systemic insecticides: narrowly targeted products are effective, but while you are fighting one problem, other pests can settle on a weakened lilac.
If you properly prepared the hole when planting the bushes, then you do not need to feed the lilacs for the next few years. However, after feeding it will become a mandatory element of care.. First of all, you need to use nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate or urea): approximately 60 grams of “food” are added to one bush. From the fourth year of life, organic matter is added.
The plant responds well to mullein. You need to fertilize the soil with three buckets of fertilizer around the lilac, at a distance of about half a meter from the root system. But phosphorus preparations (potassium nitrate or superphosphate) need to be used in the autumn season - they are applied to a depth of up to 10 cm for each plant. Among other things, lilacs can also be fed with ash, which can replace mineral fertilizers. The material is applied in liquid form, stir 250 grams of ash in a 10-liter bucket of water.
To make the bush look impressive, you need to take care of its crown, cutting off old and diseased branches and shoots that interfere with growth with garden shears or a hacksaw.
For this, there is a small instruction presented by professional gardeners - it will easily help a person who has decided to plant lilacs on their plot for the first time:
- After the lilacs have been planted in the spring, we cut off the first pair of “eyes” at a height of up to 15 cm, so that by the fall the bush will be framed by a beautiful, even crown;
- In the third year, before the start of sap flow, approximately 10 of the most well-placed shoots are left in the crown, the rest are removed, and the main shoot is shortened.
If you grow lilacs in the form of a tree, you need to leave only the central shoot, on which the eyes growing at a height of up to 80 cm are removed, leaving literally six upper pairs, be sure to pluck out one bud.
Advice: only systematic management of shrubs will lead to the formation of an even crown, which requires not only cutting off elongated shoots, but also removing shoots.
We protect from diseases and pests
May is characterized by the appearance of the moth, the presence of which leads to the curling of the leaves of the bush. It is also effectively used against it Decis. Of course, diseases can also “attack” lilacs. In this case, Bordeaux mixture helps best, which can cope with even the most difficult cases. If necessary, the work is repeated after a week.
Planting lilacs in spring: using cuttings
Despite the fact that cutting lilacs in the spring is considered the most difficult propagation method, it is also the most successful. In order to carry out all the work correctly, you need to carry out preparatory procedures in advance, observing all humidity and temperature conditions. Grafting lilacs in the spring begins with taking cuttings. They are best carried out at the moment when the bark slowly begins to harden, that is, before flowering.
You need to cut the cuttings so that they have two “eyes”, leaving a centimeter from the bud between the upper and lower cuts. The cuttings are planted to a depth of up to a centimeter. You can increase the growth rate by treating cuttings indolylbutyric acid and heteroauxin– they influence the stimulation of root system growth.
If you are going to root cuttings at home, you can plant them for a while in a “greenhouse”: a small transparent container with a lid. Normal temperature is +28 °C, humidity is about 85%. To maintain a normal level of humidity, the cuttings need to be sprayed once a day. With this approach, already next year well-rooted lilac bushes will rise on your site.
Which can be found in almost every household plot. In addition, the plant is planted in public gardens, parks, and on the streets of cities and towns. Proper care of lilacs will help extend the flowering period. In spring and the first half of summer, the plant will delight you with unusually beautiful flowers and their delicate aroma.
Shrub growing conditions
There are certain favorable conditions for the growth and full development of the plant. Every gardener who decides to start growing lilacs should know about them.
Firstly, the shrub is light-loving. It will also grow in the shade, but in such conditions it will not be possible to achieve vigorous flowering of the plant. However, you need to remember that lilacs also do not like hot midday rays.
Secondly, it is necessary to pay attention to the area where shrubs are supposed to be planted. Lilac does not tolerate only heavy types of soil with an acidic reaction and those areas where stagnant water accumulates.
Unpretentiousness to living conditions makes caring for lilacs easier. In the spring, the gardener needs to ensure that the thawed and superficial ones leave the area where the shrub grows as quickly as possible.
Planting lilacs
Due to the fact that the plant begins to grow very early in the spring, it is recommended to plant it in the fall. The optimal time is September. Compliance with this condition will greatly simplify caring for lilacs in the spring.
However, planting lilacs in the spring is also not excluded. You just need to remember that this needs to be done before the sap flow begins. The earthen lump present on the roots of the seedlings does not need to be removed. Preserving it will help the plant take root faster and undergo transplantation painlessly.
It is also possible to propagate lilacs by cuttings. The method is labor-intensive, but quite effective. Most often it is used by specialists involved in landscaping large areas.
Feeding the bush
There is a whole range of work that can be described as caring for lilacs in the spring. Feeding bushes is one of these activities. If fertilizers were applied during planting, then fertilizing will not be required for the next few years of its life.
The hole for planting lilacs should be at least 70-80 cm wide, and its depth is about 60 cm. When planting, the hole must be filled with soil, mixing it with well-decomposed manure or compost. It can be used as an organic fertilizer - up to 2 kg per plant. Subsequent application of organic matter can be carried out only in the fourth year of bush growth.
Ash is used as a fertilizer containing. 250 g of fertilizer is diluted in ten liters of water. The resulting mixture is applied to the root system of the bush.
Pruning lilacs in spring
This type of shrub care, such as pruning, creates conditions for abundant flowering of lilacs and helps to form a bush of the desired shape and size. All this is very important in decorative landscaping.
Lilacs should be pruned in spring before the buds open. This type of shrub care is aimed at removing weak, dry, damaged shoots. In addition, branches that thicken the bush are cut out. Old shoots deteriorate the appearance of the plant, so they should also be removed with a hacksaw or
Pruning will also help create a spectacular crown of the bush. It must be carried out regularly and must be included in the complex of works that ensure proper care of lilacs. In spring, pruning carried out to form the crown is most acceptable. With proper work, by autumn the lilac bush will have the shape and size the gardener needs.
Following some rules will help even a novice gardener:
- after planting lilacs in the spring, the first pair of buds must be immediately removed from a young shoot;
- after pruning, a three-year-old bush should have no more than ten of the strongest, well-placed shoots left, while the main one must be shortened;
- the resulting shoots require constant removal, otherwise the crown will thicken.
If you want to grow lilac as a tree, you need to leave only one main shoot, and at a height of about 80 cm, no more than six pairs of buds on it. The rest of the branch is removed with pruning shears.
Protection from pests and diseases
High-quality care for lilacs involves taking measures to destroy harmful insects and prevent the development of plant diseases.
Pests of many garden and vegetable crops can also harm lilac bushes. The most common and dangerous include moths, hawkmoth caterpillars, and moths. To combat them, agents such as Decis or Fufanon solution are considered effective. The mixture prepared according to the instructions is sprayed using a sprayer. If necessary, the procedure is repeated after about a week.
Bordeaux mixture is the most popular remedy for treating diseases that can affect lilacs. In the most severe cases, it is best to consult with specialists who can recommend other medications.
Caring for shrubs at other times of the year
Proper care of lilacs in the spring ensures the growth of a beautiful, healthy plant. But do not forget that the shrub requires attention throughout the growing season. Loosening the soil under the bush, removing weeds and young growth are types of work that should be carried out from early spring to late autumn. During the period of active flowering, abundant watering of lilac bushes will be useful.
Loading...