When is the best time to prune a pear tree? How to prune an old pear tree? Basic principles of pear pruning in autumn

In order to reap a good harvest from pear trees, it is not enough to plant a tree, the main thing is to care for it properly. In this article we will outline the answers to the following questions: “Why is pear pruning so important?”, “What time of year and how best to prune?”

Pruning is a necessary procedure that helps achieve the following goals:

Increased yield.
Formation of the correct crown shape.
Improving access of sunlight to the crown.
Rapid tree growth and accelerated fruiting.
Extending the life of pear trees.
Convenient and fast harvesting.
Elimination of shading of other garden trees by pear trees.

When is the best time to prune?

Pruning at different times of the year has its own tasks, so each pruning is important in its own way. In autumn, pruning is done for sanitary cleaning of the crown, and pruning in summer or spring to stimulate flowering and for the correct formation of the crown. The very first pruning of pear trees, which are formed according to the five-leg system, should be carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

Pruning in spring

Spring pear pruning diagram

Pruning pear trees at any time of the year is carried out using sharp pruning shears with a narrow blade. Also, the following tools can be used: lopper, hand or electric scissors (the handle can be long or short), garden knife, garden saw.

Spring pruning (maintenance) pruning guarantees a bountiful harvest by fall because it stimulates growth, unlike summer pruning, so an experienced gardener will not skip pruning in the spring. It is very difficult to name the exact date when you need to prune the pear, so rely on the temperature outside. If the temperature rises above plus five degrees and no longer freezes at night, then you can safely start pruning.

The approximate period is from the beginning of March to the end of April. Southern regions can perform pruning throughout the winter, because there is no risk of pruned branches freezing.

Spring pruning is needed for:

crown lightening;
reducing tree height;
cutting off all lateral growths on the upper bud (flower);
thinning overgrown branches.

In the spring, thin, fragile branches are pruned, which can easily break due to the weight of ripe fruits. The second method involves removing absolutely all branches to the base that are growing incorrectly, that is, not growing horizontally to the ground.

In the spring, the crown of the tree should be thinned out to allow sunlight to enter and heat the branches that will bear fruit and the trunk. To stop the growth of a pear tree, it is worth shortening the trunk by one fourth. Each cut should be treated with special means.

Summer pruning

Summer tree pruning can be done with bare hands. You should start already at the beginning of June from the moment the ovaries begin to form and continue every ten days throughout the entire growing season until harvest, because in the summer the branches do not stop growing.

The method of summer pruning is called pinching or pinching; it allows you to retard the growth of the pear, because the pear is a vigorously growing tree. The essence of the method is to pinch off unnecessary young shoots at the top using nails. This will remove the entire top, including the already hardened area. This method will not allow young shoots to continue growing in length, that is, it prevents the growth of unnecessary branches.

If you regularly prune trees in summer, you can save your energy during autumn and spring pruning. Most of the branches will be easily removed, because the branch does not have time to gain strength. Also, proper summer pruning helps transform leaf buds into fruit buds, that is, sends nutrients to the fruits.

Pruning in autumn

Autumn pruning (sanitary) allows you to increase the yield for the next year and prepare pear trees for winter, so this procedure should begin at the end of August, the last chance to perform autumn pruning is given in mid-September, but only after harvesting.

Autumn pruning consists of the following steps:

Removing dried, diseased, damaged branches that can break off when frozen in winter and damage healthy shoots.
Branches growing at an angle of 90 degrees are removed.
Those growing incorrectly are subject to partial removal. Those branches that will interfere with the growth of fruit-bearing branches are removed.
When completely removing branches, stumps should not remain; focus on the rings located at the very base of the branches.

Branches removed during autumn pruning must be burned. This is necessary so that other garden trees are not affected by pathogenic bacteria remaining on the cut branches.

Features of age-related pruning

Pear pruning scheme by year

By the end of the first season, pruning of the young pear tree should begin. If the tree was planted in the spring, then the top of the seedling is cut off at a height of 70 cm. This allows you to stimulate the growth of uterine branches towards the end of the season.

Next year, in the second spring, the branches (crown frame) should be shortened by half or 2/3 of the length (depending on growth). Trimming should be done on the outer bud, removing excess shoots.

In the second year, branches of the second order will develop. We also shorten the main branches by half or 2/3, but only those that are located to the trunk at the greatest angle of departure. There should be a central branch and about 3 side branches that grow at an angle of 45 degrees.

A pear tree older than one year should be pruned 2 times a year.

In the early spring of the third year, half-skeletal branches are pruned to the outer bud. That is, the formation of branches is carried out, which will then form the skeletal basis of the pear tree.

In the 4th year, in the spring, the conductors begin to be pruned, but there is often no central conductor, because pear trees have strong lateral branches.

If the branches grow upward, then they are subject to mandatory pruning, that is, shortening, in order to transfer them to fruiting, or they are twisted under the lower branches. If they are moved to a horizontal position, then accelerated fruiting will be possible.

The old pear tree has very thick and strong branches that cannot be cut with ordinary pruning shears, so a garden saw is used to cut them. On old pear trees, rejuvenating pruning is carried out in the spring or at the end of winter, the main thing is to do it before the growing season begins.

This type of pruning is carried out only for trees whose age has exceeded ten years. Old pear trees are more resistant to low temperatures, but it is best to prune when temperatures are above zero degrees.

A rejuvenating haircut is needed in the following cases:

if the tree has grown very much because it did not receive proper care;
if the tree still bears fruit, but the yield has decreased significantly and the quality of the fruit has deteriorated;
There are many dry areas that are affected by insects and diseases.

Frozen and dried branches are also subject to mandatory removal. Branches that interfere with young healthy branches should also be removed after cutting down the conductor.

An important element in plant care.

This process must be carried out carefully so as not to harm the tree, so it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of spring pear pruning.

Why is spring pruning necessary?

Doubts about whether to prune often plague novice gardeners. But this procedure must be carried out to ensure the plant’s healthy existence and active growth of shoots. By pruning pears, you can increase the yield of the tree, as well as the quality of the fruit.

Important! When pruning the branches of a young pear, it is necessary to immediately begin the formation of the crown, which will facilitate better absorption of sunlight by the leaves of the tree and accelerate the photosynthesis of the plant.

Also, pruning a pear in the spring according to the correct pattern will help the plant form a strong trunk and branches so that they can withstand the load of a large harvest. It will be able to provide the plant with a normal distribution of nutrients, the necessary space for processing and convenient harvesting.

Optimal timing for spring pruning

Pear pruning must be done at a time when the air temperature does not drop below -8°C, from March to May. At this time, the tree is still in the dormant stage and the juices are not distributed along the trunk, so the pear will bring the procedure without any undesirable consequences.

If you neglect the advice on the timing of the procedure and prune very early, when a strong drop in air temperature is possible, you can harm the plant or even cause its death.

Set of garden tools for work

In order to properly carry out the procedure for pruning a tree, you need to prepare special gardening tools. For young plants that have thin, fragile branches, you will need and.

In order to cope with older trees, you cannot do without a saw and a lopper. It is important not only to choose correctly, but also to maintain their cleanliness. Store garden supplies in a clean and dry place. Also make sure that they are good and do not harm the plant during manipulations.

Did you know? Very durable pear wood is widely used for making musical instruments and furniture, as well as kitchen utensils that can be washed in the dishwasher and nothing will happen to them.

Differences in pruning old and young trees

Depending on the age of the pear, pruning has its own characteristics that must be taken into account during the procedure in order to ensure normal development and fruiting of the plant.

Pruning young

Let's look at how to prune a young pear in the spring. Pruning manipulations are carried out the next year after planting, when the seedling has completely taken root and become stronger. The further formation of the tree crown depends on the first pruning.

If you do the whole procedure correctly, then in subsequent years it will be easier to care for the pear, since a correctly formed crown will only require pruning last year’s shoots and the formation of skeletal branches of the crown.

Spring procedures contribute to an increase in branching, and semi-skeletal branches are formed, which affect the formation of fruit branches; for this, the shoots are shortened by 1/4 of the length.

Also pay attention to the tops that often form on young trees. The tops that thicken the crown can very quickly grow into full-fledged large branches, so you should not hesitate to trim them. The gardener must turn them into overgrowing and semi-skeletal branches.

Fruiting pruning

Let's look at a detailed description of how to prune a fruiting pear in the spring so that novice gardeners can perform this procedure correctly and save them from unnecessary, rash steps.

The first tier of the crown must be formed before the pear enters the fruiting period. Approximately in the fifth year, the tree must be prepared for the formation of the second tier of the crown. By the age of six years, the crown thickens and the fruiting area shifts to the periphery.

To prevent this process, it is necessary to lighten the crown. It is necessary to leave conductor branches that extend from the trunk at an angle of up to 90°, and cut out competitors at the base of the branches. On the selected conductor, it is necessary to select skeletal branches, which are collected in groups by height and trimmed, forming two or even three tiers of the crown.

The height between the first and second tier should be at least 60 cm, and the height between the second and third tier should be at least 30 cm. Next, you need to start shortening and thinning out individual branches in accordance with the height of each tier.

Did you know?Each leaf on a pear tree grows at one angle - 135° , which provides the foliage with the maximum amount of moisture and light.

Let's look at how to prune a pear if the branches grow upward and extend from the trunk almost parallel. In this case, first, formative pruning of the conductors is performed; if these branches are healthy, do not thicken the crown of the tree and do not intertwine, then there is no need to remove them completely; you can simply shorten them in accordance with the tier to which they belong.

It is also necessary to remove all branches that grow inside the crown, thicken it or intertwine with each other. It is also important to take care of shortening the growth of skeletal branches, cutting them off by ¼ of the entire length.

Trimming old

Pruning of old trees is done to rejuvenate the plant, to stimulate fruiting and to give the tree a shape for convenient harvesting of fruits. It is very important at this stage to carry out the manipulation correctly, because old trees may not survive a poorly performed procedure.

In the case of pear rejuvenation, there are two situations on which your further actions will depend:

If the tree has not been subjected to regular removal of branches and has grown quite large, but does not bear fruit well, then the procedure must begin by shortening the crown of the tree.
If the pear has been subjected to regular removal of branches, then the rejuvenating procedure must begin with thinning the crown of the pear.

Pear pruning takes place regularly for many years, because the crown is constantly growing, thickening, and aging. A tree grows according to a program laid down by nature, and a person adjusts this process in order to receive a harvest, preferably annually.

What kind of pruning is there?

For fruit trees, several pruning techniques are used depending on the time of year, the age of the tree and the intended purpose.

Types of pruning:

Formative - is crucial in the first 5–6 years, when the crown of the fruit tree is actively forming; is held in the spring.
Thinning is a permanent operation applied to pears of any age; The tops that thicken the shoots are removed.
Sanitary - performed in the fall; remove incorrectly growing (inside the crown, rubbing), dry and diseased branches.
Rejuvenating - old trees, in which, as a rule, the upper half of the “body” dries out, need it; pruning is carried out to healthy wood.

When is the best time to prune a pear tree?

Pruning is carried out in the spring at temperatures from 0 °C to a stable +5 °C, but before sap flow begins, when the buds begin to grow. The deadlines for regions are always individual, but in general, this time occurs in March-April.

In the summer, starting in June, pinching is carried out - pinching off the tops of young shoots. For what? The forces for the growth of shoots in length are directed to the formation of fruits, the ripening of fruits is accelerated.

From late August to mid-September, when sap flow slows down, autumn pruning is carried out. Before frost, live wood on cuts and cuts will dry thoroughly and the risk of freezing will be minimal.

Trimming rules:

use a sharp instrument and periodically disinfect it;
the branches are cut into a ring, without leaving stumps, which heal slowly, and are also overgrown with a brush of tops (what does it mean to cut into a ring? At the base of each branch there is a cambial ring - a thickening or swelling at the point where the branch joins the trunk, the cut is made parallel to the line of the ring with outside);
thick branches are cut down in different ways:
- In the first pass, half of the branch is cut, then the cut follows the intended line;
- the first cut is made from below, the second and final from above (this way the cut fragment will not pull the bark along with it, the cut is smooth and quickly tightens);
if the tree is neglected, work is carried out in several stages so as not to weaken it;
the cuts are covered with drying oil or paint based on it, garden pitch, paraffin or the drug Rannet (artificial bark);
remove a certain number of branches, because excessive pruning provokes the growth of a large number of tops.

The cut passes along the outer edge of the cambial ring

How pear trees react to pruning

Sometimes a pear tree does not react to pruning the way you would like it to, and grows “in the wrong steppe.” Such disobedience depends on the variety and its inherent type of growth. Therefore, sometimes light pruning is combined with other techniques, for example, bending.

There are varieties with apical (apical) dominance of shoots, and others with lateral dominance. Some with good shoot formation, some with bad ones. There are varieties with a right angle of shoot departure, and others with an acute angle (mesotonic and basiconic).
Varieties with a mesotonic type of branching with a wide angle of branching of branches are perfectly formed: Pamyati Yakovlev, Avgustovskaya rosa, Lastochka. It is a pleasure to form such varieties - we cut the young seedling to a standard height of + 20 cm and remove unnecessary side shoots in the summer - the tree forms itself. The forming scheme for such pears is sparsely tiered.
And a variety like Bryanskaya Krasavitsa has apical dominance. Those. all the growth force goes into one single shoot, which simply clogs the rest. It is impossible to form such a tree by pruning! When pruning, you get one or two shoots, but with such sharp angles that they literally run parallel to the trunk. Such varieties are formed with horizontal cordons. This is when one shoot is kicked out and then bent. The shoots that grow from the bending places are thinned out and again bent in the opposite direction, etc.

There is no way to bypass this technique - bending down or pulling branches up (for drooping crowns) to give them a horizontal position. It is on such branches that most flower buds are formed. Skeletal branches do not bend. Bending back non-lignified shoots in spring and summer is more productive, safer, easier and takes less time. When bent in the spring, the branches will quickly take a new shape, but if this is done in the fall, there will be zero benefit - you cannot convince a sleeping branch that it needs to be fixed in a new position. Lignified branches are also bent, but this is much more difficult to do; physical strength and extreme caution are required so as not to break anything off. The process takes place gradually, step by step, so it will not be possible to complete it in one season.

Sharp branch angles are a constant risk area

If a branch leaves the trunk at the desired (not acute) angle and then sharply rushes into the sky, it is deflected to a more horizontal position. A loop of twine is attached at a distance of 2/3 of the length of the branch from the trunk, the other end is fixed to a stake driven into the ground or to the trunk, or a spacer is placed between the branch and the trunk. Branches that are too inclined are pulled upward, making it difficult to weed and loosen the soil. They are fixed to the trunk or to a pole, which is tied to the trunk. A ring is attached to the upper end of the pole through which one or more garters are passed. To prevent the string from cutting into the bark, a lining is placed under it on the branch. Otherwise, the cord or twine will cut into the bark, disrupting the movement of nutrients, the branch dries out, becomes brittle and dies.

You can bend a pear branch in a variety of ways.

Bending is great for shaping the crown of a dwarf pear. Branches 15 cm long are bent horizontally, shoots are cut out at an acute angle, and the stem is shortened so that it is 40 cm higher than the upper branch. Next season, the resulting horizontal shoots 30 cm long are left for ovaries, and stronger and longer ones (40–50 cm) cut into several buds. The stronger dominant branches are cut into a ring, the central conductor is again shortened to the same height as before.

Pincing

It is carried out in June using pruning shears or your fingers. The top of the young growth with 4–5 leaves is pinched. After 10 days, the procedure is repeated, i.e., tweezing will take place three times in a month. Pinching slows down the growth of the crown in length and nutrients flow to the fruits.

Video: pinching a pear in summer

The secret to pruning pears with different crown shapes

In general, the pruning technology is the same for a tree with any crown shape, but there is a small nuance. In pyramidal pears, the crown is “unfolded” - the shoots are cut to the outer bud, i.e., located on the outside. New shoots grow more deviated, more flower buds are laid on them, the crown becomes more luxuriant, and is better illuminated. You can replace pruning of branches growing upward by bending them down.

Formation of a crown-shaped crown

The crown of pears with drooping shoots is raised: a cut on the branch passes over the inner bud. Subsequently, the growth is directed inward to the crown and, as it were, lifts it. This technique in no way impairs fruiting, but makes the crown more compact and makes it easier to cultivate the soil in the tree trunk circles.

Forming a pear into a bowl

The crown is given the appropriate shape by cutting down the central conductor on purpose or when it is frozen, sick or shriveled. Skeletal branches of the first order surround the resulting void and the overall picture resembles a bowl. The advantage of this form is that the branches both outside and inside receive enough sunlight and are well ventilated.

Formation of the crown-bowl

Video: main types of pear shaping

Pruning a young pear in spring

The purpose of pruning a young tree is to gradually form a ventilated and well-lit crown that can withstand the load of fruit.

What is a “one year old”

This affectionate word is often used to describe annual seedlings. By the way, novice gardeners may have difficulty determining the age of a seedling. The answer is simple: a seedling that has survived the season is considered annual. That is, a pear planted in the fall of last year or this spring is considered annual.

Before purchasing a pear seedling of your favorite variety, the first thing to do is assess the condition of the root system - it should be fibrous, with intact tips, and moist. If the plant is sold with a closed root system (in a bag), lightly pick at the bark with your fingernail. The bottom layer of green color indicates that the seedling is alive and healthy, if brown it is dry, it will be of no use.

The yearling usually has a length of 80–100 cm and is similar to a twig, as a rule, without side shoots or there will be one or two, but very short. Therefore, pruning at the first stage is the most unpretentious and will not raise questions even for a “teapot”.

Trimming an annual pear

The seedling is planted according to all the rules in a permanent place, fixed to a peg and immediately after that pruned with pruning shears. Pears grafted onto a vigorous seed rootstock are pruned at a height of 70 cm from the ground directly above the bud. And seedlings obtained by grafting on a vegetatively propagated rootstock (dwarf) are shortened to a height of up to 50 cm. (Such nuances should be clarified with the seller). If you had to plant a pear with damaged roots, cut it a little more, about 10 cm, giving it the strength to restore its roots.

Metamorphoses of a seedling during the first year

The shortened stem (or central conductor) will still grow upward, it will release a shoot from the upper bud under the cut, and several side shoots will also appear. At first they will be grassy - green, tender and thin, and only over time they will turn into powerful skeletal branches. The skeleton, in turn, will be overgrown with semi-skeletal branches with leaves, buds and flowers. After some time, growth will appear below the grafting site, which should be removed. It will absorb some of the nutrients and create shade, but will not produce high-quality fruits.

Learning to trim a branch correctly

Pruning pear seedlings in the second year

Two-year-old seedlings usually grow 6–8 lateral shoots, from which skeletal branches form. To do this, leave 3–4 branches (the rest are cut into a ring), evenly spaced around the circumference and spaced from each other in height by about 15–20 cm. For a person who has taken up gardening for the first time, for clarity, you can imagine an umbrella, where the rod is the trunk, and the spokes are the side shoots. Only in our case, these knitting needles, that is, the shoots, are not located at the same level, but each one is slightly higher than the other. The angle of deviation of the skeletal branches from the trunk should not be too sharp - 45-50°. Anywhere in the tree, such sharp joints are easily split in strong winds, leaving deep wounds that are difficult to heal.

An acute angle is the most unreliable for wood; it splits easily

Cut the skeletal branches by ¼ to the outer bud, but in such a way that each of them is slightly lower than the previous one. Thus, the principle of subordination is fulfilled - lower growing branches should not rise above higher growing ones. Lateral branches at the ends of the skeletal branches, reminiscent of bird's feet, make the continuation shoot shorter. The central conductor (trunk) is cut so that it rises 25 cm above the rest. If a competing shoot has grown near the central conductor (and it will definitely grow at an acute angle), it is cut into a ring. If the pear is rapidly stretching upward, cut the central conductor to the first weak side shoot, and so that it grows vertically, it is pulled to the peg with twine.

Pruning a two-year-old pear

Competitors also grow on skeletal branches (the end of the shoot resembles a bunch), they are also cut into a ring. After pruning, nitrogen fertilizing is avoided so that the tree devotes all its energy to healing the cuts and not to growing green mass. It happens that one branch grows above another. In the future, the upper one will obscure the lower one, they will get confused, so one of them is removed.

Pruning a three-year-old pear

In the first sitting, the central conductor is cut to ¼ of the height, about 25 cm is left from the new growth, the rest is cut to the inner bud (so that the crown is not spreading). The next season, competitors of the central conductor and on the skeletal branches are amputated. Powerful tops are cut into rings, and thin ones are bent and shortened by a quarter, turning them into semi-skeletal productive branches. All branches with an acute angle of departure, as well as those that violate the harmonious structure of the crown, are removed. If the trunk is low and the lower skeletal branches lean towards the ground, they are shortened. In general, pruning a three-year-old tree is similar to working with a two-year-old seedling.

Pruning a three-year-old and a two-year-old pear is very similar

Pruning a four-year-old pear

At this age, the second tier is laid, observing the already known rules:

avoid sharp angles where branches depart from the trunk;
removal of competitors;
subordination - the upper tier should not overlap the lower one, the central conductor is longer than the branches.

Annual growth on four-year-old pears is not shortened, so as not to activate growth processes. Branches that stand out from the general pattern are pruned into an annual ring or fruit-bearing wood; tops are eliminated.

Pruning a four-year-old pear also comes down mainly to thinning and eliminating competing shoots

Mature trees

By the age of five, the crown of a pear is considered formed and does not require special intervention for several years. A tree aged 6 to 8 years looks like a self-sufficient bourgeois with a leisurely life schedule. The shortening of branches is kept to a minimum because their annual growth is noticeably reduced. Pruning is mainly aimed at maintaining a good sanitary condition of the tree.

Over time, the crown of adult pears gradually thickens and the overgrown branches will not receive enough sunlight. In this case, thinning is carried out, which is extended over 2–3 years. Why so long? To maintain a balance between the crown and its “reflection” - the roots. The thinning procedure begins in the spring. In one sitting, two to three-year-old thick branches, the diameter of which is half the diameter of the central conductor, are cut down inside the crown into a replacement knot. No more than two such branches are removed at a time.

Branch replacement pruning helps replace old branches with new ones.

The branch is shortened to a fruiting branch, and the shoot located below is cut into two buds - this will be a replacement knot. By the way, when they say “cut to two or five, etc. buds,” this means that this number of buds remains on the shortened shoot. The next year, shoots grow from the remaining buds on the replacement branch. They will perform the functions of the previous branch, therefore they are also called replacement branches. The trunk or central conductor is shortened to 3–3.5 m. Places near the cuts are overgrown with a brush of young shoots (future tops) from awakened buds, they are broken out at the end of May.

It’s good to teach others when the pear tree under the window is begging (now I just feel it) to be “combed.” The tree is 10 years old, in appearance it resembles a cypress, its height is 3 m. It bears fruit in a year, the minimum weight of the fruit is 250 g, no one remembers the name of the variety. So, on this specimen, it is necessary to remove the competitors of the central conductor, subordinate the skeletal branches and cut them to the outer bud. Having worked some magic in Paint, I came up with a very nice version of the updated pear.

Removing many competitors and pruning side branches should encourage lateral branching

Video: pruning an adult pear

Pruning an old pear

A tree 15 years old and older is considered an aksakal and requires radical rejuvenation. The signal for this is a reduction in growth to 15–20 cm. Anti-aging pruning of pears is carried out gradually over two to three seasons, and work begins in the spring before the buds open. Rejuvenation is best done after a lean year, when an abundance of flower buds have formed on the tree.

After rejuvenating pruning, bald branches become overgrown with twigs

If there are several thick dry branches, several of them are cut down every year, and the wounds are covered with garden varnish. Then the cuts are wrapped in dark film until September, so the cuts will heal 2-3 times faster. The annual growth is shortened by ¼ of its total length. “Irregular” branches are also trimmed - those growing inward, vertically and crossing.

Pruning frozen trees

Depending on the degree of frost damage, appropriate pruning is carried out. If the top of an annual pear planted in the fall is frozen, it is cut off by 1/3 of its length. However, this operation is indicated for all one-year-old seedlings, so frost does not seem to cause much harm.

In older trees with a developed branch system, pruning is more severe. First, the branches are inspected, identifying lesions - the wood in these places is brown or black. If the branch is mostly or completely frozen, it is cut into a ring. The affected upper parts are cut back to healthy wood.

Step-by-step pruning of thick branches is convenient for humans and does not injure the tree

When performing such pruning, they think first of all about the health of the tree; the beauty of the crown is relegated to the background. It is important that dormant buds wake up, which will give impetus to the growth of new shoots. And only after the “stumps” have become overgrown with branches will it be possible to talk about the formation of a crown.

Peculiarities of pear pruning in various regions, including Siberia

In the risky gardening zone, especially in the Urals and Siberia, pear bush pruning is cultivated. A tree of this particular shape is easier to cover in the frosty winter. To do this, a standard 10–15 cm high is formed, the skeletal branches are placed in random order. The formation of the crown of young trees is accompanied by moderate pruning of skeletal branches and thinning of semi-skeletal ones. In the fifth year, the central conductor is shortened at the level of the upper skeletal branches of the first order. The result is a bush tree approximately 2–2.5 m high, and no more is needed. Crown restoration is carried out using tops, shortening them by a third of their length.

In the most inappropriate, at first glance, regions, the stylite crown form is practiced. The seedlings are planted at a 45° angle with their heads facing south, and over the course of three years they form 2–4 skeletal branches about 1 meter long, constantly bending them down. Then 2 vertical shoots are left on each branch, cutting off all the others.

A completely different picture emerges in Crimea, which has a favorable climate. Here, pear pruning can be done almost all year round; the risk of freezing occurs only in some years, which does not happen often.

Illiterate rejuvenation of an overgrown pear at a Stakhanov pace in one season (up to 3–4 m in height and diameter) is fraught with the risk of the tree freezing even in mild winters. And if you trim the crown gradually, every year by 1–2 m in height and width, it will take several years and all this time the yield will be barely. Starting from the Central region, it is recommended to use anti-aging pruning according to the method of V. I. Susov (Moscow Agricultural Academy named after K. A. Timiryazev). Its essence lies in the gradual thinning of the crown, starting from the half that is most illuminated by the sun.

The trimmed part of the crown should have a height of 3 m and a width of 2 m. Externally, the picture somewhat resembles a pie from which a wedge was cut out. Half of the emerging tops are cut into a ring, the rest are shortened and bent to stimulate the formation of flower buds. All this time, the remaining wilds continue to delight with juicy large fruits.

Original rejuvenation of a fruit tree using the method of V. I. Susov

When the tops begin to bear fruit after 4–5 years, the second part of the crown is rejuvenated and at the same time the roots are rejuvenated. To do this, in the fall or spring of the year of pruning, a semicircular trench 75 cm deep is dug under the trimmed part of the crown at a distance of 2 m from the trunk in accordance with the width of the trimmed crown. Exposed large and small roots are cut with an ax or trimmed with a saw. This operation stimulates the root formation process. (Note that such work requires certain skills, if not mastery). The ditch is filled with humus and the top layer of excavated soil in a 1:1 ratio. For heavy soil, add river sand and pebbles in the amount of 20% of the total volume of excavated soil. The winter hardiness of the pear remains at the same level, and its lifespan is extended by 20–30 years.

Video: pruning the crown of a pear for beginner gardeners

The first 3–4 years of life are decisive for pears, when their crown is formed. The following years are devoted mainly to maintaining the crown in good shape. The quality of pruning and the health of the pear tree depend on the correct cutting technique, protection of cuts, cleanliness of the tool and timely completion of work.

Growing a pear is a simple undertaking consisting of irrigation, fertilization and pruning, which is carried out in spring and autumn. If you adjust the crown annually by removing excess growth, the pear tree will bear a lot of sweet fruits and delight you with health. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the features of this important part of tree care.

Methods and types of pruning

Pears are pruned using two methods:

shortening - cutting off the crown of a branch;
thinning - complete cutting off of a shoot into a ring.

Adjusting the height of the tree and the density of the crown makes it easier to harvest and control pests and diseases. In columnar pears, pruning is aimed at thinning out growth and giving a decorative appearance.

According to their intended purpose, the following types of pruning are distinguished.

Formative. It is used for young individuals before they enter fruiting time. Provides for the creation of a strong skeleton of a certain shape.
Supportive. Needed for specimens that have entered the fruiting season. By adjusting the number of fruiting branches, the tree manages to properly distribute nutrients, which has a positive effect on the quantity and quality of the harvest.
Rejuvenating. Applicable to mature specimens that have passed half their lifespan. Based on the removal of non-fruit-bearing wood. Stimulates the growth of new fruit formations, prolongs fruiting and the life of the crop.

Through proper annual pruning, it is possible to obtain sweet, juicy fruits, because sugars accumulate in them only under the influence of solar radiation.

When to prune pear trees?

Pear trees are pruned throughout the growing season. For beginners, it is important to know that the main part of the activities is carried out during the plant’s dormant period.

Spring and summer work

Every spring, to maintain the balance of the branches, the crown is formed, old shoots are cut out, and excess growth that thickens the crown is removed. Among the disadvantages of spring pruning, unstable weather and tight deadlines are noted.

Therefore, it is important to adhere to the following rules.

Choose a date for the event in accordance with the weather conditions of the region.
Proceed with adjustments after establishing a stable above-zero temperature.
Check the weather forecast to rule out return frosts.
In the spring, you need to prune the pear strictly before the juice begins to flow, while the plant is dormant.

In summer, the plant is not subjected to global intervention. Only branches that are sick or have broken under the weight of fruit are cut off.

Autumn pruning of pear

The optimal time for corrective work is considered to be autumn. In central Russia and more severe climates, pear pruning should be done at the very beginning of autumn. In the south of Russia, a later haircut is acceptable, which is carried out in October.

Autumn work involves cutting off damaged and diseased branches, shortening annual growth by a third, and adjusting the silhouette.

If a large number of branches are to be removed, it is better not to risk the health of the tree and leave some of the work until spring.

You should not prune the tree too much for the winter; the cuts are subject to severe freezing.

Carrying out work in winter

Benefits of winter pruning:

you can clearly see the crown due to the lack of leaf cover;
the pear is at rest, cuttings will not cause any significant damage to it;
infection of the wound by fungi is excluded;
the absence of juice in the wound surface allows the cut to heal faster.

It should be remembered that in winter it is permissible to form a crown only in adult specimens that have entered the period of fruiting. The event should be held after the cessation of severe frosts, as soon as the temperature stops dropping below -15⁰C.

Required Tools

To prune fruit crops, you will have to acquire a whole set of tools.

You will need:

pruner;
garden saw;
lopper;
garden shears and knife;
garden pitch or other composition for treating wounds.

All can be bought at the garden center. Be sure to maintain a sharp edge and disinfect the tool before and after trimming.

To disinfect instruments, you can use a strong solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate, alcohol, and bleach.

Pear pruning rules

Correcting the pear crown in the fall is aimed at achieving a high and high-quality harvest next year.

You can get the desired result only if you follow the rules listed below.

Do not remove more than 25% of the total wood mass at one time. To avoid causing severe stress to the plant, spread the event over several seasons.
The pruner should be directed with a small blade towards the shoot to be removed.
Make cuts onto the ring, avoiding the formation of nicks or stumps.
Large skeletal shoots are cut out in stages - first the cut is made from below, then from above. This approach will avoid lifting the bark.
The wounds are lubricated with garden varnish or a special composition based on natural paint (drying oil).

If drastic pruning was done in the spring, exclude fertilizing. The tree will redistribute soil resources among the remaining shoots.

How to properly prune different types of pears?

The pruning technology depends not only on the time of year, but also on the variety of pear and its age.

The primary formation of seedlings is carried out only in the spring of next year, since the risk of young growth freezing is high. The seedling will be sick for the first time after planting due to damage to the roots. Pruning some of the shoots will help speed up the adaptation process.

In the first 4-5 years, a young pear needs to develop a proper skeleton that can support the weight of the fruit. This quality is favored by a sparsely tiered pyramidal crown.

To form, use the following diagram.

Shorten the height of the seedling trunk by a quarter.
Select 2-4 branches to create the bottom tier.
Balance the length of the branches and the conductor by cutting the branches so that the stem is 20 cm longer.
Cut off the remaining growth.
If the branches grow at the wrong angle (more than 60⁰), immediately begin bending them. To do this, tie them to a peg, first tilting them horizontally.
After 1-2 years, you can begin to form the second tier of the skeleton. The procedure remains the same.
When the plant is 5-6 years old, cut off the conductor at the height of the upper branch of the skeleton. This will limit the tree's upward growth.

In the future, autumn pruning is of a supportive nature. Every year, a third of the annual growth is removed, old and diseased branches and tops are cut off. Thin out the crown, directing the branches to the outside.

Correction of the crown of a ripe pear

Old pear trees require rejuvenating pruning to increase yield. The event boils down to removing branches that have stopped bearing fruit. It is best to prune the tree in early spring. Mature specimens are pruned in stages, trying not to cause serious damage to the tree. For 3-4 years, you need to leave on the trunk two tiers of powerful skeletal branches (5-7 pieces), located in increments of 1 meter. In addition to rejuvenation, be sure to maintain the correct density and balance of the branches.

You should not expect a large harvest from a rejuvenated pear. Over time, the tree will distribute resources and resume fruiting.

Formation of columnar trees

Columnar pear is a low tree up to two meters tall. This crop does not have intensive lateral growth. There are short fruit branches on the trunk. Pruning is carried out to thin out and maintain compactness of the crop. To increase yield, in the fall some of the branches are completely removed, providing good ventilation and light for fruit development. The remaining shoots are cut off at the level of the second or third bud. The crown of a columnar pear is never trimmed.

Knowing how to properly prune a pear, you can achieve maximum crop productivity and avoid possible problems with fungal diseases. The event will help maintain the required dimensions of the crop and facilitate the care process.

The pear is a wonderful tree that grows in almost every area in regions with mild climatic conditions. Its delicate taste and honey aroma are combined with the excellent dietary properties of the fruit, and many biologically active compounds help prevent disorders in the digestive system. In order for a tree to bear fruit regularly, it requires careful care: watering, fertilizing and annual pruning.

Pruning goals

The main condition when choosing a place to plant a pear tree is plenty of sunlight. Based on this, the main purpose of pruning a pear is to thin out the branches and form the crown. Growing young shoots takes a lot of energy from a tree; if unnecessary shoots are removed, all the juices will be given to the fruits of the tree. This is a guarantee of the quality of the harvest and its large quantity.

stages of branch thinning and crown formation

The pear tree is one of the crops that produces fairly good yields. If tree branches are constantly shortened, upward growth will be stopped. A properly formed crown will allow other trees in the garden to receive sufficient light and heat. Harvesting with thinned branches will not cause any inconvenience.

Methods of carrying out the procedure

Pruning a pear tree is done using one of two methods:

Shortening. The upper parts of the branches are cut off along with annual growths. When pruning using this method, the tree’s upward growth stops and horizontal branching develops. The fruits may become slightly smaller, but their size will increase and the quality will improve.
Thinning. The method is based on the complete removal of growth branches in a circle at the very base. Pruning can be done both around the trunk and around the mother branch. The result is light entering the crown, and this, in turn, guarantees healthy leaf growth and an increase in harvest volume. This method does not stimulate the growth of remaining branches.

These two main pruning methods are used, combining them with some additional techniques: tilting, tying, kerbovka, bending shoots.

The purpose of pruning dictates the choice of type of procedure:

Crown formation. It is used in the first years of a young tree’s life and involves cutting off a minimum number of branches before fruiting begins.
Tree support. Used to regulate the number of branches producing fruit. This is necessary to control the balance of vitamins and minerals. Applicable to mature trees that consistently produce crops.
Tree rejuvenation. The main purpose of such pruning is to extend the fruiting period and activate the process of fruit formation. They are used for relatively old trees and those that have lived more than half their life.

Explanation: 1 – pyramidal shape, 2 – oval, 3 – spherical, 4 – reverse pyramidal, 5 – irregular, 6 – flat-round.

With a competent approach to pruning a pear tree, caring for it will become simple and clear, and the harvest will delight you with the abundance and high quality of fruit throughout the entire fruiting period.

Trimming periods

Pear pruning can be done at any time of the year. The choice of season occurs in accordance with the purpose of the procedure, the age of the tree and the condition of its crown. If pruning was carried out in a timely manner, fruiting will be of better quality, dry and broken branches will not make harvesting difficult, and a strong and strong trunk will be able to withstand a large weight of fruit.

In order for the results of pruning to satisfy the gardener, it is necessary to take into account the variety of pear that must be subjected to this manipulation. Spring pruning is most popular among gardeners, because the frosts have already passed and the growing season has not yet begun, and the process of branch growth can be influenced. Spring is the best time to prune pear trees.

The need for spring pruning of pear trees

For a bountiful harvest, pruning a pear tree is best done in the spring. Every gardener understands the importance of this procedure. The cutting scheme is as follows:

Crown thinning. If the task is performed correctly, sunlight will easily penetrate inside and heat the fruiting branches. Both old diseased branches and all thin ones that raise doubts about the ability to hold fruits until they ripen are subject to removal. Branches growing downward must be removed without fail, since they are the least productive.
Preparation for the formation of a cup-shaped crown. To stop the growth of the trunk, the top must be cut by about one quarter.
Treatment of the resulting sections with a special agent.

It is correct to start pruning a pear tree from the first year of the tree’s life. In the second year, the height of the plant should not be more than 0.5 m. This is necessary so that the plant has the opportunity to grow new branches from the buds located below, which will ensure the correct formation of the crown.

Pear pruning in spring is done using pruning shears, the blade of which should be very sharp. If the branches are old, thick and strong, then you can use a saw.

The start time for work is early spring, when the average daily air temperature will be above +5°C and frosts should stop.

It is not recommended to use fertilizers containing nitrogen during spring pruning, because it is after winter that the pear pulls the maximum amount of nutrients from the ground. If there are nitrogenous components in the soil, the taste of the fruit may be bitter.

Summer work

When carrying out manipulations in the summer, it is correct to use the tweezing method, or, as they also say, pinching. Only young shoots are subject to this treatment. The basic rules for summer pruning are:

pear pruning in summer is carried out throughout the entire season, starting from the first ten days of June;
pinching can be done without using a special garden tool; many gardeners use nails as “weapons”;
you need to remove that part of the branch that has not yet hardened;
During the season, the procedure will have to be repeated periodically, since pinching allows you to stop the growth of shoots for about 10 - 12 days;
if the crown is damaged by hail or strong wind, you can remove the damaged shoots by simply pinching them;
Proper summer pruning will lead to the transformation of leaf buds into fruit buds.

Proper pinching of a pear tree is a guarantee of its successful wintering and ease of pruning in the spring.

Pruning a pear in the fall

Autumn pruning of pears lasts from late August to mid-September. During these three weeks, the gardener will have to pay attention to the condition of each branch. Because the most important thing when pruning during this period is not to remove excess. Otherwise, the plant, which is not yet ready for “hibernation,” will devote all its energy to restoring lost shoots, and will endure the winter extremely poorly.

Pear pruning in the fall proceeds according to the following scheme:

Removing old or dried branches that can break off in winter and damage healthy growth.
Cutting down branches growing at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the mother branch.
Elimination of shoots that will subsequently interfere with the development of fruiting branches.
Shortening branches that need to be removed. Their complete elimination will only become possible in the spring, so that the plant can devote all its energy to new shoots during the beginning of the growing season.
Removing stumps. They should not remain if the branch has been completely deleted.

Branches that were cut down or cut in the autumn must be removed from the site or burned. Otherwise, the pathogenic bacteria living on them can infect healthy plants. Autumn pruning of pears is carried out at an air temperature of at least 0°C.

Is winter pruning necessary?

It is not recommended to prune pear branches at this time of year because the pear may suffer from low temperatures. Sections of removed branches will freeze before they have time to heal. However, if the procedure is still necessary, you should adhere to some rules:

pruning tool – pruning shears or hacksaw;
pruning period - from November to early March;
crossed, weak and rubbing branches are removed first;
It is better to prune old trees in winter, as young ones may die;
It is necessary to treat the wound with garden varnish for faster healing.

To properly prune a pear, you must use a sterilely clean instrument, since the tree does not have the strength to fight bacteria on its own during the winter.

Some gardeners do not see the difference between pruning an old and a young tree. Mistakes made during this procedure can cause irreparable damage to the tree. Proper pruning of a young pear after planting will help the tree spend energy on restoring roots, rather than unnecessary shoots.

A pear tree that is over one year old should be pruned twice a year: in spring or autumn. If the tree is very old, then the pruning method should be rejuvenating. This is a condition for good thinning and ventilation of the overgrown crown. Pruning a columnar pear should take into account the nuances of its formation.

A great time to prune an old pear tree is late winter or early spring.

You shouldn’t have hopes for a bountiful harvest after such pruning, because the plant’s energy will be spent on restoration after radical pruning.

In general, if all the rules are correctly followed, every gardener will be able to prune a pear, and the work will certainly be rewarded with the health and beauty of the tree and, as a result, an abundant and high-quality harvest.