Posted by: admin | on February 14, 2014 Infestations of two-wests on seedlings of cucumbers, cabbage and tomatoes, which dry out on the vine, are especially dangerous. Cats are good at catching poison. If they pull out seeds, it's most likely magpies. For me, these are the tricks of ants and naked slugs.
In our climate it is possible even now. Make grooves 5-6 cm deep around the holes. Double-tailed plants damage beets, peas, radishes and many other vegetable crops.
The mole cricket is a big gourmet and will go into a bottle at the smell of beer; she will gnaw through the bandage. The neck of the bottle should be at a depth of 4-5 cm.
Promptly destroy plant debris that serves as a refuge for them. Set up traps: lay out boards around the perimeter of the garden, place weeded weeds and damp rags between damaged plants. She will not be able to get out of the bottle, so the neck must be raised.
People often mistakenly call earwigs two-tailed. Set up traps: lay out boards around the perimeter of the garden, and place weeded weeds and damp rags between damaged plants. She will not be able to get out of the bottle, so the neck must be raised.
The double-tailed insect is scientifically called the common earwig. Whoever has a mole cricket in the region - blame her. Method of struggle: you need to boil the wheat and add special ingredients. Make grooves 5-6 cm deep around the holes.
It is necessary to clear the area of debris and rotting wood. In our area, garlic is ready for harvest by mid-July. It has been tested that many mole crickets will climb into the bottle.
People, where have you seen toothy worms and vegetarian moles! At high numbers, two-tailed insects can completely destroy young plants. Leave old wives' tales aside - ants chew the earth, and moles are predators. It is necessary to clear the area of debris and rotting wood.
In therapeutic nutrition, cucumbers are used for obesity and diabetes. The double-tailed insect is scientifically called the common earwig. You can also pour some beer into a glass bottle, tie a bandage around the neck to prevent soil from pouring in, and bury the bottle in a garden bed.
Is someone eating cucumber seeds in the garden? Neither one nor the other indulges in such pranks! Yes, spray, it won't get any worse. Before sowing, the seeds are sorted in water or a 5% solution of table salt. The neck of the bottle should be at a depth of 4-5 cm.
If you plant seedlings, they eat the root and everything dies. The sprouted seeds and young seedlings are gnawed by the mole cricket. We made this ourselves, moles don’t bother us anymore! They have special turntables that make noise. Either he was scattering manure, or there was a pile of manure nearby somewhere.
You can also pour some beer into a glass bottle, tie a bandage around the neck to prevent soil from pouring in, and bury the bottle in a garden bed. Method of struggle: you need to boil the wheat and add special ingredients.
Please remember this, everyone. Posted in Cucumbers | Discussion closed Cucumbers are a favorite vegetable on any table. But this fruit will be even tastier if you grow it with your own hands.
Cucumbers are planted using seedlings, which are prepared at home in the spring. Before you start growing cucumbers, you need to learn more about the whole process of work in more detail, armed with advice. Scheme for planting cucumbers in a garden bed with drip irrigation.
When and why are seedlings planted?
The process of adding soil to elongated seedlings. Every year, gardeners are tormented by the question of the correct choice of time for planting prepared seedlings. After all, on the one hand, you want to plant everything quickly in order to enjoy the harvest earlier, and on the other hand, if you plant cucumber seedlings too early, there is a risk that they will freeze during unexpected frosts and there will be no harvest. Various calendars with planting dates come to help gardeners and recommendations printed directly on packets of seeds of a particular variety of cucumbers or any other vegetable.
But you should always rely on your experience of previous years, focusing on natural climate changes. Planting cucumber seedlings occurs in the spring. In order to grow cucumbers and enjoy them for as long as possible, it is necessary to take care of them even at their inception stage.
That is, you should under no circumstances rush into seedlings. After all, the root system of cucumbers is very weak and no procedure will help make it stronger. Only supports and garters can help. It is important to remember that cucumbers are grown from seeds, which, by the way, germinate very quickly, so you should not rush to plant them, since long-term protection at home will make cucumber seedlings even weaker.
How to plant seedlings
Temperature conditions for growing cucumbers. Planting seedlings and growing them is not so difficult. Of course, many people sow seeds directly into the ground, and many manage to reap good harvests.
But still, planting ready-made seedlings is much more reliable. Seedlings are grown in small containers with soil, where seeds are placed in 2-3 pieces. This way you can increase the likelihood of a sprout appearing.
As soon as the seedlings appear, everything unnecessary must be removed so that nothing interferes with growth. Gardeners prefer to plant cucumbers in the ground, starting with individual small cups, followed by transplanting the grown seedlings into larger containers. Although others take the position that you can sow them initially in a large container and not disturb the sprouts by the replanting process. It is undesirable to use clay soil for growing seedlings, but this is not a problem, because in stores you can now buy any soil with various additives, fertilizers, and so on. Many have their own excellent land, which is what they use.
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Methods of planting cucumbers, choosing seeds
Planting potted seedlings: a – formation of a hole; b – hole filled with water; c – placement of seedlings in the hole; d – sealing a pot with seedlings. Cucumbers are grown in open ground, but the most commonly used option is the preliminary cultivation of seedlings at home. Both methods guarantee an excellent harvest.
The choice of one of them depends only on the personal preferences of a particular gardener, because each of the methods has both pros and cons. If there is a real opportunity to prepare seedlings at home, then it is best to do this and plant cucumbers outside in a sprouted state. In addition, before planting cucumbers, it is important to choose the right and good seeds. Currently, there are a huge number of different varieties and hybrids, so there will be plenty to choose from. Very often, experienced gardeners prepare their seeds rather than buy them at the store.
Growing seedlings at home
Agrotechnical techniques for growing cucumbers. It is believed that in order to get tasty, beautiful, ripe and large quantities of cucumbers, it is necessary not only to properly care for them, but also to grow and plant them correctly to begin with. Gardeners know that the harvest will be more generous if they prepare seedlings for planting in advance.
Cucumbers can also be grown at home, so preparing seedlings will not be difficult. You need to know not only how to grow cucumbers, but also take into account all the nuances of this process, then you will have cucumbers of excellent quality. Growing seedlings at home will require approximately 3 weeks (minimum 20 days). Considering this fact, it is necessary to calculate the time when you can plant the seedlings, so that when they are ready, you have a real opportunity to transplant them into closed (or open) ground.
The process of growing seedlings begins with preparing the seeds, germinating them and planting them in small separate containers. Growing seedlings at home has its own characteristics regarding the growing process and care, which must be known and taken into account so as not to ruin the seedlings and not be left without a harvest.
- Since the root system of cucumber sprouts is very weak, the replanting process is undesirable for them. To avoid injury when transplanting seedlings into the ground, it is recommended to grow seedlings in special cardboard pots, which tear well during transplantation without damaging the root system. Of course, the cups can be other, for example, plastic, but it is important to foresee in advance how the sprouts will be removed from them with the least risk to the roots. Selected containers for seedlings are filled with substrates (the nutrient mixture needed for seedlings, which can be purchased at a gardening store). Although experienced gardeners prepare this mixture themselves from peat, humus and sawdust. Cups with planted seeds must be stored in a warm place where the temperature is at least 25°C. You need to water the seedlings once a week and only with warm water. Until the sprouts appear, the containers must be covered with film to avoid moisture evaporation. In such an environment, the seedlings make themselves known already on the 5-6th day. If the temperature is lower, the germination process will be noticeably delayed, for example, the first shoots will appear only after 10 days. In cases where 2 sprouts appear in one glass at once, the weakest of them must be removed, but not by pulling out, but by cutting (to avoid damage to the root system).Cucumbers will germinate if the required amount of light, complete absence of drafts, the required temperature and mandatory fertilizing are provided.
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The process of planting finished seedlings in the ground
Planting seedlings under frameless film shelters: 1 – central earthen roller; 2 – side rollers; 3 – furrow; 4 – seedlings; 5 – film. Seedlings that are ready for planting are considered to be sprouts with 2-3 green leaves and a root system that has filled the entire container. Planting of seedlings occurs both in open and closed (greenhouse) soil. It is very important to prepare seedlings for transplanting to a new place and new conditions.
After all, seedlings in the soil will be exposed to lower temperatures, so you need to adapt them and increase their level of frost resistance. This procedure begins about a week before you plant it.
To begin with, the temperature is lowered to about 16°C, and then the seedlings can be moved to the open air. Under no circumstances should cucumbers (existing bushes) be left in the sun. To grow cucumbers, you need to plant seedlings approximately from April 15 to April 20, this is for planting in closed ground (in greenhouses).
If cucumbers grow in open ground, then it is recommended to plant seedlings from May 10 to May 15. Cucumbers planted in open ground must be covered with film.
Growing cucumbers in open ground (planting seedlings)
Construction of a vertical bed with intensive watering. Cucumbers are planted in open ground only as seedlings. Cultivation is carried out using two methods, each of which will require the preparation of beds.
- Horizontal planting method. With this growing method, cucumbers spread along the ground. Planting occurs in round holes located at a sufficient distance. Vertical planting method. Cucumbers are planted in long narrow beds. In this case, it is necessary to provide support (special nets or ropes along which the plants will weave and rise up). This method requires providing a sufficient amount of light, especially in the case of organizing several beds at once, in order to prevent the plants from being blocked from the sun's rays.
Every gardener has the right to choose a suitable and more convenient planting method for him. But it is worth noting that hybrids are often designed only for vertical planting.
It is important to know and remember that any method requires careful preparation of the soil. So, the soil should ideally be a layer cake. Soil preparation takes into account the characteristics of the root system of a particular plant. Cucumbers have a shallow root system, so the beds are prepared as follows:
- layer 1 of pine spruce branches or chopped brush; layer 2 of compost; layer 4 of sawdust or straw; layer 5 of a small amount of manure (or humus with ash); layer 6 of 20 cm of soil from the garden.
About 2 days before planting the seedlings, the bed is thoroughly watered with hot water (preferably boiling water) and covered with film. If it is not possible to wait a couple of days, then planting is done immediately after watering, while the earth is still warm (or better yet, hot). It is important to find a suitable place in the garden for the garden bed.
It is necessary to take into account the fact that cucumbers should not be planted where other vegetables grew before, as there is a risk of infecting the cucumbers with viruses left over from another crop. Acceptable vegetables after which cucumbers can be grown are potatoes, tomatoes, beans, peas or cabbage.
It is very important to disinfect the soil before planting cucumbers. This procedure is carried out using copper sulfate, the solution of which is spilled over the beds (in the ratio of water to copper sulfate - 10 liters per 1 tbsp). It is important not to forget that cucumbers love moisture very much.
The more often you water them, the tastier they become. The fruits are collected as they grow. If you are satisfied with the variety of cucumbers grown, at the end of summer you will need to collect seeds for next year. add a photo Show previous comments (shown %s of %s) Valentina Kravchenko And my sprouted onion is “trimmed” in places.
It seems that onions are a bitter thing, but some people like them!.. I watched the birds and loosened the ground around the bulbs to find insects, but so far to no avail. Text hiddenexpand
Laura S This is also how they eat up my planted seedlings; this year all the cabbage was cut off. These are fat caterpillars, I don’t know what they are called... I find them in the holes where seedlings are cut, in the top layer of the earth. Text hiddenexpand
Elena Igorevna - Laura S Either a scoop or a Khrushchev, give me a photo and we’ll tell you which one Text is hiddenexpand Laura S R.S. By the way, they not only eat up vegetable seedlings, I also cut tulips and gladioli.
Text hiddenexpand Galina Gubina (Maslova) Our cat once ate some tomato seedlings! We also thought for a long time - who eats the seedlings? Then a cat was caught at the crime scene! Text hiddenexpand
Tatyana Elistratova (Bibina) We also had a similar story. Then we discovered a nest of voles. Text hiddenexpand
21 May 12, at 18:17 Zaremma Tyurina (----------------... Girls, I don’t know where you live, but in Tula we have been plagued by white chafers for several years now. They eat everything: tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, strawberries, etc. We don’t even know how to save ourselves. Nothing takes them.
Text hiddenexpand 21 May 12, at 19:06 Natalya Yul We had such a problem, and the culprits turned out to be black beetles, we say *dung beetle*. There were a lot of them in those years...
I walked around the garden and dug up holes... It’s good that there were only 6 acres... Text hiddenexpand
Ivan Ivanov No one paid attention to the dirty tricks of ordinary black crickets, which are nothing more than locusts! Text hiddenexpand May 21, 12, at 23:03 Lone Wolf So much has been written... I'm completely at a loss...
We have almost all of these misfortunes in our garden... beetles, and crickets, and voles, and dung beetles, and the ubiquitous cats roaming around, and some kind of gray-brown caterpillars, and someone is not digging holes deep, but not a bear, bigger..., some kind of animal. All this happened for many years, but only this year the tomato seedlings were cut, and only stumps of 0.5-0.7 mm remained, at the cotyledon leaf stage.
Of course, the growth point was destroyed and everything was lost. And those seeds that “stayed too long”, or rather “stayed” longer in the soil, were perhaps buried deeper, subsequently sprouted and remained intact (but very few remained). And just think and guess...
Who is this pest? This has never happened before! This year for the first time!Text hiddenexpand Elena Igorevna - Lone Wolf I cut the seedlings (they were processed, perhaps that’s why they didn’t touch them, they were left lying cut side by side) - they grow and are pleasing to the eye. Text hidden, expand
Evgeniya Pugachyova (Borzunova) In my greenhouse, someone also cut the stems of a tomato. I treated it with Decis and watered it in the rows at the root. And immediately everything stopped.
Text hiddenexpand Ismakaeva(Voronova) Neli Shape a piece of laundry soap (75%) into a bucket of water, boil it, pour it under the root and not a single infection will touch the plant. Text hiddenexpand
22 May 12, at 08:30 Elena Igorevna - Ismakaeva(Voronova) Neli I make it simpler - I have a washbasin right on the plot, I just wash my hands with household soap - and then I pour the water under the plants one by one, so I get them all treated about once a week. But I didn’t have time to water them yet; they were cut off the same night that I planted them. Text hiddenexpand
25 May 12, at 11:20 Natalia Evpalova We have a dacha in the Ryazan region. Local old-timers say that there is such a holiday as “magpies.” (Emphasis on the first syllable) It has a constant date. It is somehow calculated.
Garden and vegetable garden: Cucumber seedlings - the secrets of Super Grandma
But the point is that on the day of the week on which it falls, you cannot plant any crops - the birds will peck. This year the magpies fell on Thursday. I understand with my mind that this is nonsense, but it’s hard to argue with folk wisdom.
Text hiddenexpand 22 May 12, at 09:30 Tatiana I have a dacha in the Moscow region, 40 km away. in the southeast. So we have vine snails that devour seedlings of zucchini and cucumbers, we have to cover them with five-liter jars with the bottom cut off. We unscrew the lid and tie the neck with gauze, otherwise they might crawl in. were not observed eating tomatoes.
Text hiddenexpand Valery Podlesny Apparently this is a gnawing cutworm, a small caterpillar. Text hiddenexpand Svetlana Bredis For me this was done by black ones like grasshoppers.
They are in the ground, but they ate the young beets in 1 day. I don’t know how to deal with them. That they are gluttons, that's for sure.
Text hiddenexpand 24 May 12, at 16:39 Vladimir Gorbov Yes, this is a beetle, as one comment has already been written, I don’t know the exact name, I once found it on the Internet but I don’t remember exactly, we have a lot of them in our gardens, they cut off the greens, any kind, they crap for a couple of months in late spring, early summer, cut off the stems the ravens, no matter what, drag them into the holes in the ground and lay eggs there.
The beetle itself is small, 1.5-2cm of which half or even more is the head with a large jaw. So they most likely cut off the seedlings. Text hiddenexpand Elena Igorevna Thank you all and have a good harvest!Text is hiddenexpand
Growing cucumber seedlings - a quick way to a harvest
Planting cucumbers
We begin to prepare cucumber seeds for seedlings, which we will plant in an open garden bed in late April or at the very beginning of May. If the seedlings are intended for planting in a greenhouse, we begin preparation even earlier - in early April. If you purchased seeds in a store, you can be sure that they are already prepared for planting, treated with various means necessary to obtain a bountiful harvest. All we have to do is select the largest and, accordingly, the strongest germinating seeds.
- To do this, pour a little water into a bowl, preferably slightly salted, and put the seeds in there, moistening them thoroughly. The best seeds will sink to the bottom, because... they are the heaviest. We discard those that remain afloat. We lay out the seeds suitable for planting on wet gauze and cover the top with it. Leave them for about a day in a warm place. We are waiting for the sprouts to appear. The gauze should always be wet, but the seeds should not float, otherwise they will simply rot. The light tips of the sprouts are emerging from the seeds, which means they can be planted in the ground.
We must remember that cucumbers do not like transplanting.. If the roots are damaged, the sprout will no longer survive.
Therefore, for planting seeds, we prepare separate plastic cups or jars with even walls, perhaps with slightly widened upwards, so that the grown seedlings can then be easily removed from there along with the soil. You will need to do this in such a way as not to disturb or damage the thin, delicate roots. In these jars we pour a mixture of fertile soil with the addition of peat, humus, sand, or ready-made soil for cucumber seedlings, sold in stores. We start sowing cucumbers like this: in jars We make holes to a depth of 1.5 cm and drop 2-3 seeds with sprouts there.
We dig in and water these places a little. In a few days, seedlings will appear from the ground, which we do not forget to water regularly. Cucumbers love water, but they should not be over-watered!
This will lead to a disease such as gray rot, from which the sprouts will die. We water the cucumbers as needed so that the ground around them is sufficiently moist, but not wet. Cucumber seedlings should be well lit during the day and stand in a warm place, because cucumbers are not only heat-loving, but also light-loving plants. In 3-4 weeks, the seedlings will be ready and we will be able to plant them in a permanent place.
How to plant cucumbers correctly to get a big harvest
Preparing a bed for cucumbers
A unique method of growing cucumbers
It is, of course, better to prepare a bed for cucumber seedlings in the fall. But, if for some reason this was not done, the soil can be dug up, fertilized and loosened immediately before planting. There are several types of beds for cucumbers:
- A simple garden bed. At the site of the future bed we spread organic matter: per 1 sq.m. – 1 bucket of manure, humus. We make a bed of any desired length. Then we dig it all up to the depth of a spade bayonet. For the next two years, there is no need to apply organic fertilizers to this area. You can also add minerals, for example, ammonium nitrate (15g) and potassium nitrate (25g), and superphosphate (30g) - per 1 sq.m. Cucumbers are planted in holes or rows. In the first planting method, seedlings are planted in holes made at a distance of 42-45 cm from one another. You can do this in rows. In this case, we plant the cucumbers 9-10 centimeters apart from each other, and retreat 50-55 cm between the rows. Manure bed. This method is more suitable for colder climates or earlier planting of cucumbers in greenhouses. The bed is made in the spring. We dig a trench, calculating its depth in such a way as to place about 35-49 cm of fresh manure on the bottom, and at least 25-31 cm of loose fertile soil on top. We water the garden bed generously and plant seedlings (you can also use seeds), approximately 4-5 pieces per square meter. The manure will successfully rot, releasing a significant amount of heat, and the cucumbers will grow well in this warmth - the soil in the garden bed will not cool down even on cold nights. Compost bed. It is done in the same way as a manure bed, only instead of manure, tops, sawdust, vegetable waste, and last year's leaves are taken. You can add manure. This bed will be less heated than a manure bed, so it can be used in warmer climates.
Planting seedlings at the main “place of residence”
Growing cucumber seedlings
We made a garden bed. We transplant our seedlings into it. Before taking out the plant, water the soil in the cup a little so that it does not crumble.
Then carefully remove the seedlings from the cup so as not to break the sprouts or damage the roots. The plastic cup can first be slightly dented so that the soil moves away from the walls. After this, carefully turn the glass over onto your palm (the sprouts should fall strictly between your fingers).
Carefully place the earthen lump with seedlings remaining in the palm of your hand into the prepared holes. These holes should be of such depth that the cucumber sprouts rise above the ground only with their leaves. We carefully bury them to this level.
We water a little, quite abundantly, but carefully so that the water does not wash away the soil and expose the roots. To obtain a rich harvest of cucumbers, the air temperature should be no less than: 24-25°C during the day, 16-18°C at night.
Pests and infectious diseases can ruin the harvest not only in open garden beds, but also inside heated greenhouse shelters. So which pests eat cucumbers? This vegetable is loved not only by humans, but also by harmful insects and mice.
Pests inside the greenhouse
To choose pest control products, you need to find out who is eating the cucumber seedlings in the greenhouse.
Experienced vegetable growers know that the greatest damage to the cucumber crop is caused by harmful insects:
- whitefly;
- wireworm;
- mole cricket;
- slugs;
- caterpillars of the winter armyworm.
Medvedka
This pest kills cucumbers both in open garden beds and in greenhouses. The mole cricket causes great damage to crops in the southern regions and central Russia. It can be assumed that it has settled in the greenhouse if the grown plants begin to dry out unexpectedly.
Pest #1
Adults hide deep in the soil. Along with the first warmth of spring, the pest wakes up and begins to lay eggs. The underground parts of plants are eaten by larvae and mature mole crickets.
Especially many pests appear in the garden immediately after watering; they are attracted to well-loose and moist soil. During the daytime, the pest hides deep in burrows, and at night it eats young roots from seedlings.
Chafer
This harmful insect deals a double blow to cucumber beds, since it destroys plants not only by adults, but also by larvae.
The May beetle (Khrushchev) is quite large in size for an insect, its body length reaches 3.5 cm. The wings of the pest are colored dark brown, reddish-brown or black.
Pest #2
In May, adult individuals begin to mate, after which the female lays eggs deep in the soil and dies. The beetle larvae appear in July and begin to eat garden crops. It takes a long 3-4 years until it turns into a beetle. During this time, the insect manages to cause significant damage.
Whitefly
The white-winged butterfly causes great damage to garden crops not only in greenhouse shelters, but also in open beds. The whitefly is a very small insect, its size ranges from 0.9 to 1.1 mm. The body of the insect is milky yellow in color, and the wings are whitish.
Pest #3
The insect is mostly distributed in the southern regions of Russia, where the air temperature rarely drops below −12 degrees.
Sprout fly
This gray insect reaches a length of 0.5 cm. The pest wakes up in the spring and begins to actively lay eggs in damp areas of the soil or on manure.
Pest #4
Larvae form in 10 days. During the warm season, the sprout fly can reproduce 3 generations of pests. If someone eats cucumber seeds in the ground, then there is most likely a sprout fly in the greenhouse.
Slugs
Slugs do not have tentacles, legs or any other limbs. They crawl from the stem to the leaf, leaving behind a trail of sticky mucus. Outwardly, these pests are similar to snails, with the difference that slugs do not have a shell house on their back.
Pest #5
The slug is nocturnal; during the daytime it hides in the ground. The pest eats not only leaves, it is not averse to eating the ovaries and fruits of plants.
How to get rid of pests
To protect young shoots from pests, you need to determine which insect is harming the cucumber beds. Different types of pests can eat seedlings:
- stem;
- leaves;
- fruit;
- root.
Once it has been discovered that someone is eating cucumbers in the greenhouse and the type of enemy of the cucumber seedlings has been determined, you can begin to select suitable methods and means for its destruction.
Someone is eating cucumber seedlings
Young cucumber shoots in greenhouses suffer especially badly from the small white-winged butterfly. This pest is equally dangerous for cultivated plants in the adult and larval stages.
The larvae suck the juices from the plant, and mature individuals are carriers of infections. It is very difficult to combat this pest.
Understanding who exactly eats cucumber seedlings is very important for choosing a means of controlling insects. It is possible to determine that it is the whitefly that is causing damage to greenhouse plants by the following signs:
- the leaves are covered with whitish dots;
- sticky discharge appeared on the stems;
- some leaves are curled;
- if the leaf is turned over, small larvae that look like scales will become noticeable;
- If you shake a cucumber vine, tiny white butterflies will fly into the air.
Advice. To get rid of whiteflies, immediately after the fruit-bearing plants are removed from the shelter, treat the soil and all structural parts of the greenhouse with smoke from sulfur bombs. The contaminated layer of soil is removed from the greenhouse, and steamed soil is filled in instead.
If the pest was discovered during the period of active plant growth, you can try hanging fly strips in the greenhouse. Traditional methods of combating harmful insects suggest using tincture:
- dandelion;
- garlic;
- wild garlic;
- yarrow.
Plants should be treated once every 7-10 days. If traditional methods of control are powerless against the pest, you will have to use chemicals, such as:
- Biotlin;
- fufanon;
- actellik.
Aphids can also suck juices from plant leaves. To get rid of it, you need to wash the young leaves of the seedlings with water and soap.
Someone eats cucumber seeds in the ground
Many vegetable growers complain about the very poor germination rate of seed. The seeds from the holes simply disappear, so who eats the cucumber seeds in the ground?
Pest #6 (underground)
The seeds are eaten by the larva of the germ fly. In order to rid the beds of this pest, it is enough to dig up the garden deeply in spring and autumn and not leave piles of manure on the surface of the soil.
In addition, plant seeds can be eaten by:
- mice;
- slugs;
- ants.
The drug “Muravin” can be used against all types of underground pests.
Someone eats cucumber leaves
Pests eat not only young shoots, but also the foliage of cucumber bushes. So who eats cucumber leaves? The high level of humidity in greenhouses and greenhouses leads to the fact that slugs begin to actively reproduce inside these shelters.
Slugs live underground and come out to eat plant leaves at night; for this reason, vegetable growers are not always able to detect the enemy of cucumber seedlings in a timely manner. When fruits begin to form on plants, slugs can also eat the fruit ovaries. These pests are not averse to eating grown fruits.
Advice. How to deal with slugs? Summer residents suggest setting insect traps from cut plastic bottles. The fact is that the pest cannot crawl over the sharp edge. To make such a trap with your own hands, just cut off the top part of the bottle and place it on top of the young shoots so that they are inside the container.
The difficulty is that a slug can get inside the container by digging from the inside. To prevent the slug from getting to the cucumbers, sprinkle the beds with:
- coarse river sand;
- sawdust;
- broken nut shells;
- Christmas tree needles.
Specialized stores sell granular chemical preparations, the action of which is aimed at destroying the pest:
- Slug eater;
- Storm.
Use the products according to the instructions supplied with them.
Interesting! For slugs and mole crickets, you can make bait from beer. Insects crawl to the smell of the drink and remain inside the container.
Someone eats cucumbers in the greenhouse
Ripening fruits can be gnawed by:
- slugs;
- mice;
- worms;
- caterpillars.
In order to protect the crop, you can regularly spray the plants with infusions of herbs and garlic. After spraying, you can pollinate the cucumber vines along with the leaves and sprinkle the growing crop with ash. The plants will look ugly, but the cucumber bushes will become tasteless to the pest.
Someone is gnawing on a cucumber stem
A situation familiar to many gardeners is when healthy green shoots just yesterday begin to dry out on the roots, or instead of them, gnawed stumps stick out of the ground. Cucumber stems can be gnawed by:
- mole cricket;
- May beetle larvae;
- winter armyworm larvae.
This group of pests can be controlled using chemicals or traditional methods. Gardeners suggest destroying the larvae with boiling water. About an hour before planting the seedlings, you need to fill the hole with boiling water. Opinions differ on how much hot water should be poured into the hole; some gardeners recommend at least 5 liters, others believe that one liter is enough.
You can pour a small amount of vegetable oil into mole cricket burrows and add bait from the following preparations:
- Thunder;
- Phenaxin;
- Grizzly.
Wireworms can feed on cucumber stems. To do this, the pest gnaws the walls of the cucumber vine and settles inside it.
Someone is eating cucumber root
The underground part of cultivated plants is most often eaten:
- wireworm larvae;
- May beetle larva;
- mole cricket
Important! To combat many underground pests during the construction phase of the greenhouse, it needs to be buried 0.5 m along the entire perimeter. The underground part of the walls can be made of brick, slate, or plastic.
You can reduce the amount of wireworms in a greenhouse using the drug Bazudin.
The mole cricket is poisoned with Vofactox and Rembek.
In open beds, a solution of ammonia can be used to control pests. They water furrows in the soil at a distance of 10-15 cm from the plants themselves. This method is not suitable for greenhouses and greenhouses.
Experienced gardeners suggest planting young plants in the ground along with a barrier made of a plastic bottle. For this purpose, take a plastic two-liter container without a bottom and dig it in to a depth of 30 cm.
Do I need to control pests?
Chemical control of insects is carried out only if any type of pest is found inside the greenhouse. Until this point, it is necessary to carry out comprehensive preventive measures.
Note. If the enemy of cucumbers, despite all efforts, has settled inside the greenhouse, it is necessary to take urgent measures aimed at saving the crop. Otherwise, the pest will be able to destroy all the plants inside the shelter in the shortest possible time.
At best, bushes gnawed by pests will produce a very low yield. The fruits of weakened plants will have an unattractive appearance. Often, cucumbers on eaten bushes become deformed and are not suitable for preservation and sale.
The action of pests on the stem and leaves
What to do, what to process
A large amount of planting material is sold already processed. If the purchased seeds have an unusual color, then they do not need to be soaked in protective solutions. The remaining seeds must be treated with chemicals before sowing.
Advice. You can create a special enveloping composition from a flour paste and any biologically active protective drug. All seeds must be dipped in this mixture and then left to dry on a saucer. The prepared seed will be reliably protected from insects.
After the seedlings appear, they need to be sprayed with a solution containing a broad-spectrum chemical. If you find that someone is eating the stems or leaves of cucumbers, you need to know how to treat the plants in the greenhouse. Targeted chemicals must be used against a specific type of pest.
Preventive measures
Pest control begins at the construction stage of the greenhouse. Then, measures aimed at destroying harmful insects continue at all stages of the plant’s life. To prevent uninvited guests from destroying the cucumber harvest, you need to:
- after harvesting, remove plant remains from the greenhouse;
- weed the beds in a timely manner;
- Before planting seedlings, treat the holes with boiling water and special means;
- remove the contaminated layer of soil from the shelter;
- spray the plants with infusions of garlic and onion peels.
Correctly carried out prevention aimed at protecting plants will help preserve the harvest.
Cucumbers are one of the most favorite vegetables on our table. Many farms grow them and, probably, there is not a single dacha that does not have a neat cucumber bed growing.
It is quite difficult to obtain a rich harvest of this crop. Cucumbers are a demanding plant and very sensitive to many diseases and pests. Often these vegetables are grown in greenhouses, where harmful insects, which have the opportunity to reproduce year-round, are most active. Success in growing cucumbers largely depends on the timely detection of pests and their destruction.
Description of the most common pests
Slug
Methods for controlling pests of cucumber seedlings
To destroy pests, it is necessary not only to timely treat the beds with insecticides, but also to strengthen the plants themselves by following the technology of their cultivation.
Necessary:
- Carry out regular crop rotation, and change the soil in greenhouses and greenhouses.
- Maintain optimal humidity (not higher than 80%) in greenhouses. Ventilate them if necessary.
- Weed out weeds.
- Treat seeds before sowing with disease control agents.
- Apply recommended doses of fertilizers without exceeding their norm.
We once used a solution with laundry soap to fight mole crickets. In principle, it was possible to lure them out of their hole. Another interesting point is how to deal with those slugs that still managed to penetrate the freshly planted cucumbers. And it is also very interesting whether it is possible to treat cucumbers with a solution of tobacco; they say it helps very well against aphids.
Before the new planting season begins, it’s a good idea to talk about who is eating the cucumber seedlings in the greenhouse. Not only we humans enjoy eating crispy cucumbers; rodents, insects, and worms love to feast on this plant. You can lose all your seedlings in one night and not know who did it.
Greenhouse owners will agree that the main pests of cucumbers that affect adult plants and seedlings are whiteflies, wireworms, mole crickets, slugs, and fall armyworm caterpillars.
How to protect cucumbers from mole crickets
Cucumbers suffer from mole crickets both in open ground and in greenhouses. The pest is especially widespread in central Russia. It is possible that you have a mole cricket if cucumber seedlings or already grown plants dry out.
Sexually mature individuals - adults - overwinter deep in the ground. In early spring, pests wake up and lay eggs in their nests. There can be up to 500 of them in one clutch. Adults and their larvae damage the roots of cucumbers. They are attracted to cucumber beds with seedlings by moist, loose soil; pests make many moves in the ground. During the day, the pest sits in holes, and at night it eats the roots of cucumber seedlings.
To prevent the mole cricket from eating the seedlings, traps are made from manure. Fresh manure is the favorite delicacy of this pest. Trap pits measuring 50 by 50 cm are dug in the fall and filled with cow manure. When the temperature reaches below zero, the manure is taken out and scattered on the ground. The mole crickets are sleeping at this time, so they do not move and freeze.
You can protect newly planted cucumbers from pests with kerosene. To repel the pest, piles of branches or boards are laid out around the ridge and generously watered with kerosene. The mole cricket moves away from the fragrant beds. For those who prefer chemicals to protect seedlings, insecticides are suitable: “Thunder”, “Phenaxin”, “Grizzly”. Baits are prepared from them.
Who cuts the seedlings
A problem that many summer residents face: the cucumber seedlings, which were vigorously greening in the greenhouse just yesterday, have disappeared today. Stumps stick out of the ground, and cotyledon leaves lie nearby. Unknown pests chew through the stem and snack right at ground level.
It is difficult to determine who has eaten the cucumber shoots, since it could be a wireworm or a cockchafer larva. Gray cutworm caterpillars often gnaw young stems of cucumbers; they can be found if you dig up the ground next to a dead plant.
May beetle larvae should be collected while digging the ridge before planting cucumbers. Treat the sprouted plants with onion or garlic infusion; the worms do not like them. Chemicals are more reliable means of controlling pests (khrushchev). To get rid of it, you can safely recommend the following medications to summer residents:
- Nemabact;
- Aktara;
- Antikhrushch.
Wireworm
Wireworms are found in most regions located in the temperate climate zone. A wireworm is a larva of a click beetle that lives in the soil for a long time (2-5 years). In the second year of life, the larva eats the roots of the plant, leading to its death.
The wireworm, thanks to its dense chitinous cover, can easily penetrate the stems of adult cucumbers. The main vine of the cucumber, in which the wireworm has settled, becomes bent over time and gradually dries out.
You can reduce the number of pest larvae using traps. They are arranged in the spring in thawed soil, seasoned with chopped vegetables. To save cucumbers, the drug “Bazudin” is buried along the perimeter of the ridges; it is released in powder form.
Fall armyworm
The winter armyworm is a large (up to 2 cm) butterfly with a wingspan of about 5 cm; it lays eggs on any plants, including cucumber seedlings. If the stem of the seedlings at ground level has become thin or a stump sticks out of the ground instead, it means that the young cucumbers in the greenhouse are being destroyed by the fall armyworm caterpillar.
Caterpillars can reach a length of 5 cm, they are brown or dark gray (almost black) in color. Voracious pests live in the soil, eat underground parts of plants, and primarily damage the roots. To protect the root part from the cutworm, you need to add one of the following preparations to the holes before planting the cucumbers:
- Initiative;
- Zemlin;
- Bazudin.
As a preventive measure, when digging the soil, select and destroy caterpillars and larvae. Removing weeds is also an effective preventive measure against the fall armyworm and its larvae.
Who eats the seedlings
The real scourge of greenhouses has become the whitefly - a butterfly with a pale yellow body 0.9-1.1 mm long, the surface of two pairs of wings is covered with white pollen. The seedlings are eaten by butterfly larvae; their flat-round body is covered with small spines.
The female survives winter at temperatures of -12 °C. During the season, 10 or more generations of whiteflies can appear from one individual. The pest destroys cucumber seedlings and oppresses adult plants: the larvae suck out the juice, and the adults carry a fungal infection. It is very difficult to kill whiteflies.
You can determine that a whitefly is feasting on your cucumber by the following signs:
- white dots are visible on the leaves;
- sticky discharge is noticeable on the stem surface;
- cucumbers have curled leaves;
- on the lower surface of the cucumber leaf blade, larvae resembling scales are visible;
- If you shake the cucumber vine, white moths will appear.
How to protect seedlings from whiteflies
Protecting seedlings begins long before they are planted in the greenhouse. Every autumn, after harvesting, it is necessary to treat the soil and greenhouse structures with sulfur bombs, having previously cleared the ridges of plant residues. It is better to set fire to checkers at night. Remove the top layer of soil (5-7 cm) along with the pest larvae from the greenhouse.
You can speed up the destruction of the pest on cucumbers using homemade traps; for this you need to have the following on hand:
- castor oil (1 tsp);
- rosin (1 hour);
- honey (1 hour);
- Vaseline (1 hour).
Add the remaining ingredients to the heated rosin and mix everything. When the mixture has cooled, spread it on long strips of paper and hang the resulting strips in the greenhouse. The pest control system can be expanded using folk recipes or chemicals.
Among the folk methods, recipes for infusions are useful, the active component of which can be:
- garlic;
- yarrow.
To prevent the pest from eating fragile cucumber stems, treat with infusions at least once every 10 days. For those who do not trust traditional methods, chemistry will come to the rescue. Summer residents fight whiteflies with the help of drugs:
- Actellik;
- Fufanon;
- Biotlin.
Slugs on cucumber seedlings
In the humid climate of greenhouses, slugs reproduce well; they can be found in almost any region of the European part of the country. The insect has no limbs, its surface is completely covered with mucus, it looks like a snail without a shell.
The active life of the pest begins at night; during the day it hides at a depth of 8 cm. At night, slugs gnaw through the lashes and leaves of cucumbers, and tender, young shoots are the first to suffer. The pest is very voracious and eats most of the leaves. When the fruiting period begins, slugs eat the ovaries and begin to gnaw on large cucumbers. A large percentage of your crop can be lost to slugs.
What to do to reduce the number of slugs in the greenhouse, each summer resident decides individually. Some people prefer to place baits made from tomato tops, lettuce leaves and cucumbers around the perimeter of the ridge against pests. Plant debris should be periodically destroyed along with slugs and replaced with new ones. Some pests can be removed by hand.
The pest has a very delicate abdomen; they will not climb into the beds with cucumbers if the entire perimeter is filled with any material from the list around them:
- sawdust;
- needles;
- coarse sand;
- nut shell;
- broken shells.
The most popular chemical preparation against slugs is “Thunderstorm”; it lasts for 3 weeks. During the season, at least 2 treatments will be required for pests. Another drug, “Slug Eater,” is used once during the summer; its effect is shorter and lasts only 2 weeks. The preparations are in the form of granules; they need to be laid out not only along the border of the ridge, but also between the bushes.
Aphid
Seedlings may die due to aphids if they used soil taken from the garden for planting and did not treat it against pests and diseases. Aphids are very prolific; up to 20 generations of the pest appear over the summer. Optimal conditions for active reproduction of the pest are high humidity and air temperature from 25 °C.
Aphids suck the juice from the leaves, petioles and stems of the cucumber. You can fight the pest using traditional methods. When the cucumber seedlings are still small, you can simply wash them with soapy water. It is difficult to wash adult bushes, so prepare an herbal infusion with the addition of soap and spray the leaves and bushes against pests.
Who eats the seeds
The larva of the sprout fly causes great damage to cucumbers. All pumpkin crops suffer from this pest. Many summer residents complain about poor germination when sowing seeds. In some cases, the problem is in the seed, but if it is impossible to find its remains in the hole, this means that someone is eating all the cucumber seeds.
The seeds are eaten by germ fly larvae. This insect is gray in color, its body reaches 5 mm in length, and the pest's years begin in the spring. The fly lays its clutches in damp places and prefers to lay them on manure that is poorly embedded in the soil. Larvae appear within 10 days; over the summer, up to 3 generations of the pest can appear.
To prevent the spread of germ flies, simple measures are sufficient:
- dig the soil deeply;
- carefully embed the manure into the soil.
On the advice of experienced gardeners, the drug “Ant” can neutralize the larvae; when you plant seeds, you need to mix it with the soil and sprinkle it on the surface of the hole.
Information about pests and methods of combating them will help you take the necessary measures in time to save cucumber seedlings.
Cucumbers are quite capricious to grow; they require optimal conditions in terms of parameters such as temperature, humidity, and the amount of microelements in the soil. In addition, they are susceptible to various diseases. The article outlines the main diseases of cucumbers in a greenhouse and their treatment, you will find out why the leaves turn pale and dry, the ovary disappears, how to understand that cucumbers have been attacked by aphids and spider mites, why cucumbers do not set.
More often, gardeners encounter the following pests: Greenhouse whitefly - a small but voracious insect that can suck juice from leaves in a short time. As a result of its vital activity, a sooty fungus is formed and the plants die. Aphids are sucking pests that appear on cucumbers in July-August. It develops quickly, depletes plants, sucking out juices and spreading viral diseases. Aphid colonies can be found on the undersides of leaves.
Chapter 1. Reasons for eating cucumber leaves
We have some kind of invisible creature in our greenhouse that eats cucumber leaves. It begins to gnaw holes in the leaf and then eats the entire leaf, leaving central veins. Invisible “poop” remains on the sheets - small round balls. The ends of the leaves at the petiole are connected by a web. I thought that my invisible one was a spider; by the way, they are found in large numbers in our greenhouse. But spiders don’t seem to eat plant matter and I haven’t noticed them leaving their excrement anywhere before. Our invisible man eats only cucumber leaves.
Slugs love warmth and moisture, but not heat, so in places where it is warm and humid, there are usually a lot of them. In years when there is a lot of rainfall, under every leaf, under every branch and even garden tools lying on the ground, you can see dozens of these voracious pests.
Even if, walking through the garden, you did not notice a single pest or its slimy trace on the leaves, you should not be sure that they are not on your site. Slugs are true nocturnal inhabitants; during the day they, as a rule, rest or move slowly in places hidden from view and the sun, but at night they come out in search of food.
Slugs harm not only cucumber leaves; their diet includes young shoots of cabbage, tomato leaves, strawberries and even potato stolons. The damage begins with the fact that a round and through hole suddenly appears on the leaf, but if you do not notice the “work” of the slug in time, then only the petiole and veins will remain from the leaf.
Chapter 2. How to deal with eating
There are two main pests of cucumbers that feed on foliage. The cucumber leaves are literally eaten at the root by slugs, annoying inhabitants of damp places, which of course are abundant in any cucumber bed. If the number of slugs increases to an alarming level, they can seriously damage the cucumbers and destroy the plant.
The picture when slugs eat the foliage of cucumbers is as follows: The best way to combat slugs is to sprinkle them with tobacco or ash, thin out excess foliage and control watering.
The second pest of cucumbers that harms the leaves is aphids. Aphids pierce the foliage and draw juices from it, so that in the end there is no hole created by a slug, but the leaves of the cucumbers begin to dry out and turn yellow, so they curl and die. It affects aphids and the ovary of cucumbers, and can also be a carrier of equally dangerous viral diseases.
To combat aphids, an infusion of tobacco is also used, but an infusion of celandine or garlic helps even better. Aphids can also be removed by spraying with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
During the winter, slugs lay eggs in the soil, which in the spring produce young individuals that begin damaging seedlings and other plants literally after 2-3 months.
The best way to fight slugs is mechanically - collect everyone you find. You can, for example, walk at night with a flashlight. But to make this task a little easier for yourself, it’s better to use a trick - create temporary shelters for the slugs yourself to escape from the daytime sun. These could be pieces of roofing felt, slate, etc. placed between them. Or specially placed small containers with water where slugs could climb but not get out. Some gardeners suggest using beer instead of water. The method is truly more effective. But in order for slugs to hide in “hospitably” prepared shelters, you need to keep the area clean, that is, there should be no weeds, debris, or foreign objects that create a dark and damp space. Creating barriers on the approaches to the garden bed (dry clean sand, eggshells) will also help. Cleanliness and order should also be maintained in winter - remove all plant debris, old covering material and other debris.
It is better to dig up the soil in winter, as this will ruin the “wintering” for many pests, not just slugs, by bringing them closer to the surface and frost.
In serious cases, you will have to resort to chemical protection - there are various pesticides (more precisely, molluscicides), for example, the safest is the granular preparation "Groza", in blue granules, in addition to the active substance (metaldehyde), which has an osmotic effect (increases mucus secretion, due to which causes dehydration of the body and death of the mollusk), there are substances that attract slugs and substances that repel birds. The drug has no effect on other types of living organisms, for example, earthworms, insects, birds, mammals. The substance is scattered both over the surface of the beds and between the rows (15-30 g per 1 square meter). The period of active action is 2 weeks. And don’t forget to remove dead “enemies”...
Section 1. Chemicals to combat leaf eating
Apply foliar feeding on the underside of the leaf with a solution of potassium chloride and superphosphate (10 g x 20 g x 10 l of water, twice, with a break of a week), or nitroammophoska (3 tbsp per 10 l of water, once every 7 days), feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
Treat the plants with biological preparations Fitoverm, Strela or insecticides Arrivo, Intavir, Tanrek.
carry out regular spraying with Bud, Karbofos or Iskra.
A cobweb appeared on the underside of the cucumber leaves - this is a spider mite. This pest spreads massively in hot, dry weather. Its target is plant cell sap. That is why, where it appears, cucumber leaves acquire a marble color, gradually turn brown and dry out.
To minimize the risk of this harmful insect settling in the beds, during hot weather they must be sprayed with water, thereby maintaining optimal air humidity, and regular weeding must be carried out. In case of massive infestation of cucumbers by spider mites, it is recommended to use the drug Fitoverm.
Section 2. Folk remedies
If at night someone eats the young leaves of your seedlings, it is most likely slugs or snails. They are the ones who like to operate under the cover of darkness and consume young plant tissue. It is quite difficult to fight them, but it is still possible. Firstly, this type of pest must be collected manually. To do this, you need to go out into the beds at night and use a flashlight to look for mollusks and remove them from the beds. Secondly, you can set up traps in the area. These can be pieces of plywood, roofing felt or any other materials that do not allow light to pass through and retain moisture underneath. Thirdly, the beds must be kept clean, with weeding and loosening in order to make life difficult for the little “enemies”. And, as a last resort, you can resort to using chemicals, for example, scattering Thunderstorm granules on the ground.
The cucumber leaves curl, the flowers fall off, and a sticky coating appears in some parts of the plant - this is aphids at work. Typically, its mass distribution is observed in midsummer. Insects suck juice from plants, thereby inhibiting their development and contributing to a decrease in yield. But the worst thing is that, in addition to the direct negative impact, they often become carriers of diseases, so it is imperative to fight aphids!
The first thing you can try is folk remedies. These include an infusion of garlic, onion peels, wormwood, celandine, ash and laundry soap, as well as dusting plantings with dry ash.
If tiny white insects appear on cucumbers in large numbers, this is a whitefly. It usually lives in greenhouses, but in hot, humid summers it also destroys open plantings. It is quite difficult to protect against it, since this pest is carried by the wind. However, control measures are still worth applying.
The first thing you can use is glue traps. They are done independently by painting a piece of plywood or thick cardboard yellow and covering it with any slow-drying adhesive.
Secondly, try to distract the pests by planting several tobacco plants next to the cucumbers.
Third, simply wash off the pests regularly with water.
Chapter 3. Prevention from eating cucumber leaves
In terms of combating this pest, preventing the entry of whiteflies into greenhouses (hanging windows and doors with gauze) and timely destruction of weeds are of great importance. Glue traps will help - small pieces of plywood are painted yellow and smeared with something sticky, for example, castor oil. Captured pests are periodically removed and the traps are lubricated again.
A tobacco bush will distract the whitefly, but it can already be treated with some chemical preparation, for example, actellik.
The most dangerous is the common spider mite, which multiplies massively in dry and hot weather. It settles mainly on the lower surface of the leaves, entangling everything with a thin web. It feeds on cell juices. The leaves gradually become marbled in color, then turn brown and dry out. To prevent the proliferation of ticks, you should maintain high air humidity, regularly spray plants, especially in dry weather, and destroy weeds in a timely manner. In serious cases, you can use drugs such as Fitoverm or Actellik.
Cucumbers can be threatened by several species of aphids, most often the melon and large potato aphids. Not only do these insects multiply very quickly and, accordingly, feed massively at the expense of the plant, they also carry a huge number of phytopathogenic viruses.
These pests are located not only on young leaves, but also on old ones, and even on flowers. They secrete sticky excrement (honeydew) very intensively, promoting the development of soot fungi. (Aphids attack cucumbers only from weeds, so it is very important to prevent their growth in greenhouses. In order not to resort to chemicals, you can use solutions such as garlic infusion (200 g of crushed cloves are infused in 1 liter of water for 7 days in a dark place, then filter and dilute with water - 25 ml of infusion per 1 liter of water) or a solution of ash and soap (1 glass of ash and 1 tablespoon of liquid soap per 10 liters of water, leave for 24 hours, filter and spray).
Another very small sucking insect. Adults reach a maximum size of 2 mm (in some species). The color is usually uniform, light yellow, yellow-brown or black. Thrips are quite widespread, but due to their small size they do not attract attention. But traces of their vital activity are very noticeable - silvery streaks appear on the leaves (caused by air entering the tissue), areas of discoloration, necrosis, deformation, sticky marks. As a result of damage to the ovaries, crooked fruits are formed. Like other insect pests, thrips are carriers of many viruses.
Thrips are more difficult to control than other pests. On one plant there are insects in different stages of development. To detect them as early as possible, you can hang sticky traps, but blue ones are better than yellow ones. Weeds should also be controlled.
For spraying, you can try garlic infusion. But, most likely, you will have to use chemical insecticides, for example, actara (4 g of the drug per 5 liters of water).
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