Ash and its use in the garden. What plants benefit from wood ash as fertilizer? What is important to remember when using ash

Ash, which is formed as a result of wood combustion, is an effective and environmentally friendly fertilizer for many types of garden and vegetable crops. It contains a lot of useful elements, thanks to which it is rightfully considered one of the best types of fertilizers existing today. Ash as a fertilizer should be used wisely to obtain the most optimal result.

If you adhere to existing rules and recommendations regarding the direct preparation and use of this fertilizer, it will be completely safe and characterized by a number of distinctive properties.

First of all, we need to talk about the environmental safety of this material. Ash does not have any negative effect on humans; if it comes into contact with the skin, it does not cause irritation or, especially, burns. However, this only applies to natural ash, which was formed as a result of burning exclusively pure wood, without various chemical and synthetic impurities, for example, paints and varnishes.

Ash contains a lot of useful elements, which is why it is rightfully considered one of the best types of fertilizers that exist today.

Another important advantage is accessibility. It is much cheaper than other organic or mineral fertilizers. However, you can make it yourself. Wood ash as a fertilizer for indoor plants or traditional garden plants can be stored for a long time. It just needs to be protected from excess moisture, and this will be enough to preserve the basic technical and operational qualities of the material.

Wood ash can be used not only as a fertilizer or fertilizer, but also as an effective product for protection against a wide range of pests.

For example, if you sprinkle it on the soil directly next to plants, an insurmountable barrier will be created for snails, flies, wireworms, aphids, slugs and ants.

The material also demonstrates high efficiency in the fight against fungal diseases of potatoes and other popular vegetables. To do this, you need to regularly spray the crops in your garden or vegetable garden with a special ash-based solution.

Since wood ash and its beneficial properties are determined by its natural origin, there are no prerequisites for it to act according to its intended purpose instantly, which is typical for various pesticides. Therefore, if the vegetable garden or garden is too heavily affected by various pests or dangerous fungal or infectious diseases, you should resort to the help of special chemicals rather than ash.

Material composition

Obtaining wood ash in suburban areas is, as a rule, very simple, since many of their owners prefer to use wood rather than gas or expensive coal to heat their houses and other architectural structures. The burned tree, or rather the remainder of it, should under no circumstances be thrown away. Ash contains a significant amount of various chemical elements, namely:

calcium carbonate - this substance is usually the most abundant. The 17 percent CaCO3 content allows you to significantly improve the metabolism inside plant tissues, which will automatically affect the stabilization of biochemical processes. This component promotes an increase in the number of ovaries on the buds, which, moreover, will be much larger and more magnificent;
calcium silicate - here it is 16.5 percent. Saturates fruits with vitamins, which allows them to become more tasty and, accordingly, healthy. A too “evil” onion is precisely the result of the influence of calcium silicate;
calcium sulfate - approximately 14 percent. This element supports the life of the plant for a very long period of time. It is one of the most important components of such an effective fertilizer as superphosphate;
calcium chloride – improves photosynthesis processes. Its percentage (12%) allows you to stimulate the production of important enzymes. In addition, the use of wood ash, which contains calcium chloride, in the garden contributes to the high-quality protection of a number of crops from various diseases, namely the appearance of black spots on tomatoes, changes in the structure of carrots and much more;
Potassium orthophosphate – serves to regulate the water balance of plants. It is thanks to this substance that heat-loving crops are able to withstand unfavorable climatic conditions;
sodium chemical compounds - in general, they occupy up to 15 percent of the total composition of ash. Like the previous element, they are responsible for the proper water balance of plants. Their effects are especially noticeable on tomatoes - they become richer, juicier and reach ripeness noticeably faster;
magnesium compounds - the substance promotes the formation of starch and cellulose in tissues. It also takes an active part in the development of the plant’s root system;
rock salt - despite the fact that it is only 0.5 percent here, it helps to improve the growth of many melon crops. Its effect on moisture conservation during severe and prolonged droughts is noted.

As a rule, many gardeners resort to applying this substance as a top dressing or initial fertilizer, focusing on the advice and recommendations of specialized experts. The lunar calendar is also used and the stage of plant development is taken into account.

But the best option here is considered to be independent study of the condition of certain crops grown in the garden. In the vast majority of cases, by their appearance it will be possible to determine which useful element they are missing. If you regularly examine them, you can easily notice signs of mineral starvation, which, as a rule, are quite strong.

First of all, this is a change in the structure of the leaves. If the vegetative system of a plant changes its color, becomes, for example, whitish, and subsequently becomes deformed, this indicates that it is severely lacking calcium. Signs of a deficiency of this element are also:

spots on fruits;
premature loss of color, especially on nightshades;
curling the edges of the leaves;
death of young shoots;
fruits lose their taste;
drying of the bulbs;
death of tubers and tops (typical of potatoes).

Sometimes there may be a lack of potassium. The composition of wood ash includes a relatively small amount of this substance, but, as a rule, it is quite enough to normalize carbon metabolism in plant tissues. If this is not done on time, the following negative manifestations are possible:

the leaves will begin to deform and curl. What is characteristic is that they do not fall off;
flowers lose their aroma, in some cases almost completely;
Solanaceae leaves are rolled into peculiar rolls.

If the leaves begin to turn red, turn brown and darken, this is evidence that the plants do not have enough phosphorus. In general, there is not so much of it in wood ash. Therefore, it should be used to solve this problem only at the initial stage. If the signs of phosphorus deficiency are too obvious, it is recommended to use a special fertilizer based on this substance, for example, superphosphate.

If crop growth has noticeably decreased or even stopped altogether, this may indicate a lack of not only calcium, but also magnesium. It should be noted that these two substances, in terms of plant growth and development, are practically a single whole. Therefore, along with adding calcium, you need to take care of a sufficient amount of magnesium. An infusion of ash for feeding plants contains many magnesium compounds, and therefore it is very effective in solving a number of problems.

Plant nutrition must be balanced. Otherwise, not only a lack of various useful substances is possible, but also an oversaturation with them.

If the soil contains a significant amount of nutrients, it is categorically not recommended to add them, as this will negatively affect the condition of the plants.

Plant nutrition must be balanced.

Contraindications to the use of ash from burnt wood:

formation of excess rosettes (observed in grapes and apples). This provokes a deterioration in the nutrition of the fruits, causing them to become of less quality;
leaves and color fall off prematurely, and their appearance indicates the absence of health problems;
the vegetative system of the plant loses color saturation, despite high-quality and regular feeding;
the dying off of young shoots for no apparent reason is observed;
the taste of the fruit becomes bitter;
the pulp of the fruit acquires a brown tint, the tissue becomes loose.

Properties and uses of wood ash

Ash, which is formed as a result of burning wood, is currently recommended to be used in two main ways:

Relevant for large crops, such as garden trees or shrubs. It can be sprinkled both on the soil and directly on the plants themselves.

Use of dry wood ash

Aqueous solution

For small crops, which are usually grown in the garden, an ash solution seems to be an effective way of fertilizing. The average consumption is one glass of substance per bucket of water. Throwing it in too much is not recommended as it can result in oversaturation.

When answering the question of which plants love wood ash, it is necessary to especially note the fact that calcium, magnesium and other useful elements have a positive effect on all types of garden and vegetable crops. Therefore, it is advisable to use this material to fertilize any plants grown on your own plot. These are fruit trees, shrubs, cucumbers, tomatoes, carrots, onions, eggplants, potatoes, peppers and much more.

When using wood ash as a fertilizer material, there are a number of factors to consider. First of all, this is the type of soil. It is recommended to fertilize clayey and loamy soils in the autumn, while this procedure for peat bogs and sandy loam soils is relevant in the spring.

In addition to simply sprinkling or watering, ash can also be used when digging up an area, during which it is mixed with the ground. The calculation of the quantity is directly related to the volume of the site. The classic application rate is approximately 100-200 grams per square meter.

Restrictions

It is not recommended to simultaneously add wood ash and strong organic fertilizers, such as humus, to the soil. It is advisable to divide these procedures into several seasons at once. That is, ash can be added in the spring, but compost can be added immediately before the start of the winter period.

The material is not recommended to be combined with phosphate or nitrogen fertilizers. The minimum period between the use of these substances should be one month. Plants that love acidic soil, such as cranberries, should not be fed with wood ash, as it causes a decrease in soil acidity. The same goes for root vegetables, such as turnips, beets or radishes. The fact is that otherwise the yield will noticeably decrease.

How to use ash at the dacha? It should be understood that it should be applied for the first time only after the third leaves appear on the shoots. Wood ash is characterized by a high percentage of salts, which negatively affect the growth and development of weak shoots.

When growing tomato seedlings or other crops, it is not advisable to fertilize the soil with ash. Contact with the young root system will lead to burns, reduce the plant’s immunity and contribute to the fact that it will take root in a new place after transplantation very poorly and for a long time.

Every gardener knows how to use ash. As a fertilizer, this universal product is ideal for feeding plants. Irrigation of seedlings with ash appeared in the era of slash-and-burn agriculture. Trees were burned directly on the field, then the soil was dug up and crops were planted. In the 19th century, wood ash was used for floodplain meadows, which, after fumigation with the solution, increased productivity.

Ash composition

Ash contains formulas of chemical elements necessary for plants. These substances are needed by vegetables, ornamental flowers, shrubs and trees. Experienced gardeners often use peat ash, wood and coal. Compound:

Fertilizing with ash in autumn and in the spring it plays an important role for the rapid germination of plants, and also increases the harvest in the garden.

Different parts of the same tree produce different amounts of ready-made complementary food. It depends on the age and growing conditions of the bush. Most ash is produced when bark and leaves are burned. Wood waste from an oak trunk provides 0.35% ash, leaves - 0.5%, bark - 7.2%. The top part of the tree always produces more fertilizer.

It is known that ash is excellent source of potassium, lime. Ash fertilizes and structures the soil.

Use of fertilizer in agriculture

Ash is also excellent for indoor plants; the use of the mixture improves the chemical composition of the soil. It reduces acidity, and also accelerates the ripening of compost. Soil alkalized by ash is the best habitat for microorganisms and nitrogen-fixing bacteria.

Grapevine, foliage or potato tops contain 40% potassium, coniferous trees are rich in phosphorus - up to 7%, other deciduous trees have a different composition, containing the most calcium.

To obtain ash at home, metal barrels or containers are used. In them, the ashes are protected from wind and foreign objects. In such containers, firewood completely burns out. Suitable raw materials are collected autumn leaves, trimmed stems of bushes, grape vines, and the remains of firewood from different tree species. Wood should not be mixed with household waste as this can create a dangerous mixture.

The resulting composition is stored in a dry place in wooden boxes that close tightly. Some gardeners use polymer bags.

The effect of ash increases if it is mixed with peat, compost or humus. Thanks to the combination of ingredients, the decomposition of organic matter improves and the quality of fruiting of trees increases. The fertilizer does not lose its beneficial properties for three years.

But dosage must be taken into account. Excess has a detrimental effect on the plant: 100-200 grams per 1 square meter is added to sandy loam soils. m, in loamy areas - 300−400 g/1 sq. m.

Application rates

Since the ash does not contain chlorine, it is suitable for strawberries, raspberries, currants, cucumbers and squash. When adding to the holes you need to take 1-2 tbsp. l. for 1 glass of water. For sweet peppers and eggplants - 3 tbsp. l./1 tbsp. liquids. Ash is used instead of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers and lime fertilizers in the calculation:

500−800 grams per 10 square meters. m - digging up soil;
400−500 g - before sowing;
300 g - in holes and furrows.

Feeding plums and cherries is done as follows:

A trench 10–15 cm deep is dug along the perimeter of the root part.
Fertilizer is poured into it and filled with water.
The ditch is leveled with soil.
The total amount of ash should not exceed 2 kg per tree.

The dry mixture can be used to fumigate plants against pests. The procedure is carried out early in the morning or late evening in dry, windless weather. The treatment repels snails and slugs. Thanks to the ashes, plants quickly take root in a new place and get sick less. In spring, radish, cabbage and turnip seedlings are irrigated with ash to prevent the appearance of cruciferous flea beetle. This pest quickly eats crop seedlings.

Wood ash has proven successful as a fertilizer for indoor plants. Ash prevents the soil from oxidizing; it can completely replace the mineral composition of the substrate for flowers in pots. Fertilizing is carried out both with dry ash and with a liquid solution: 50-150 grams of the substance are diluted in water (10 liters), constantly stirred and applied to the soil. If ash impregnation is used, other fertilizers are no longer needed. After a month, the bush is sprayed with nitrogen solution if necessary.

Every time we harvest vegetables from our lands, even at the stage of growing them, we remove nutrients from the soil. And in order to get a harvest again next year, it is necessary to return what was taken from it to the soil in full...

How to replenish the nutritional composition of the soil, how to replenish the lack of nutrition, and what does ash have to do with it? Let's talk about this today...

What is the power of wood ash!

Potassium, calcium, phosphorus, as well as all trace elements, and in favorable proportions, are contained in wood ash. The quality of the ash depends on many circumstances. First of all, the raw material is important, that is, the type of wood burned in the fire.

The ash from the combustion of birch firewood has the greatest value; it contains potassium - 10-12%; phosphorus - 4-6%; calcium - 35-40%:

While ash from the combustion of spruce wood contains 3-4% potassium, 2-3% phosphorus, and 23-26% calcium:

Potassium in the ash is contained in the form of potash (potassium carbonate), which is readily soluble in water. Phosphorus, compared to potash, is small in ash, but it is used from ash more completely (almost completely!) than from superphosphate.

The presence of a large amount of calcium makes ash an excellent alkaline fertilizer that can quickly deoxidize the soil!

The effect of ash on the soil!

Application of ash:

Reduces soil acidity
Improves soil structure
Creates favorable conditions for the development of microflora

When deoxidizing soils with lime, it is necessary to remember that crops such as carrots, parsley, and radishes do not tolerate lime well. In carrots, the root crop becomes distorted, while in others it becomes coarser. Therefore, for these crops It is better to deoxidize the soil with ash!

How to properly apply ash to the soil!

Ash can be applied both in autumn and spring, the application rate is 100-200 g per square meter. meter. One faceted glass contains 100 g of ash. But if your soil is sandy, then it is better to do this in the spring, because ash is washed out more quickly from sandy soil.

We do not dig up the soil, but only level it with rakes or a flat cutter!

It is useful to apply ash to all crops. An exception may be those crops that love acidic soil:

Rhododendron
Azalea
Lupine
Hydrangea
Sorrel
Calla
Camellia
Cranberry
and others...

But the next thing I tell you is VERY IMPORTANT! Especially for us naturalists!

Do not add ash along with nitrogenous organic matter and manure! This leads to loss of nitrogen!

But if you add ash to the compost, it will have a positive effect - the process of decomposition of organic matter is accelerated, and the actions of microorganisms are activated and accelerated!

Feeding with ash is effective and necessary!

You can feed plants with ash throughout the season. But remember that in the first half of summer, most plants need more nitrogen, A in the second half you need more potassium and phosphorus! Therefore, it is more effective to start fertilizing with ash in the second half of summer, because ash is rich in potassium and phosphorus!

Ash can be applied to plants in dry form, then it is advisable to lightly loosen the soil.

But it is more effective to supply ash in dissolved form. To prepare the solution, take a bucket with 10 liters of hot water and add 2 cups of ash (200g). Mix thoroughly and let it brew for a day. Fertilize at the rate of 0.5 liters per tomato bush, or cucumbers, or pepper... And 3 liters per currant bush, or raspberry bush, etc...

Ash infusion (pour hot water)

2 cups of ash / 10 liters of water
leave for a day
3 l/bush berry
0.5 l / vegetables

Since ancient times wood ash has always been used as fertilizer to increase soil fertility and pH levels, increase crop growth. After introducing it into the soil, the positive effect lasts for three years, or even four.

It contains many useful elements of natural origin, such as potassium, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, iron, boron, manganese. It is a pity that there is no nitrogen in it due to its volatilization during wood burning. Therefore, it is necessary to additionally feed plants with nitrogen fertilizers.

But in no case should they be added together with wood ash because of the ammonia release reaction, which is not very good for plants. It is also undesirable to add ash with mineral fertilizers and humus. It is best to add humus late in the fall, and add ash in the spring.

Wood ash can be stored for many years in a sealed container. Otherwise, when moisture gets inside, there will no longer be any useful substances in it. How to properly apply wood ash to the soil? We will deal with this issue now.

The amount of ash is calculated based on the size of the plot of land (per 1 hectare you need approximately 15 kg of ash). If you have clay or loamy soil, add ash in the fall. And if the soil is sandy or peaty - in the spring. Very often, ash is added when digging the ground, but we recommend adding it immediately before planting the seeds.

Wood ashes can be used to make liquid fertilizer. For 10 liters of water you need to take one glass of ash and mix.
This fertilizer is universal and should be applied directly to the roots of plants.
It will appeal to those summer residents who do not have time to separately care for each type of plant.

You can also soak the seeds in water with wood ash before planting the seeds in the soil (add 2 tablespoons per 1 liter of water). Then keep this mixture for a day, filter and soak the seeds in it for 6 hours.

Wood ash does not contain chlorine, so it can be added to the soil where grapes, currants, potatoes, and strawberries are planted. But where blueberries grow is not desirable due to the acidic soil environment. Also, ash should not be applied to turnips and radishes. Their roots will become rough and they will shoot out a flower arrow.

Wood ash is also added to the compost, making it richer in microorganisms and nutrients.
So, before adding wood ash to the soil of your site, you need to consider all the pros and cons of this wonderful fertilizer and its application line.

Contents of the article

Without a doubt, ash residues are the oldest type of fertilizer, once offered to observant farmers by nature itself. After all, by spring, blackened forest and steppe fires are invariably covered with lush green grasses, followed by seeds that have fallen from the trees. On the incinerated land after the first rains, all living things begin to grow together. In this sense, only natural forest compost from fallen leaves and twigs can compete on equal terms with the fertile product of fire.

Good old wood ash as a fertilizer can easily and easily replace any artificial potassium-phosphorus mixture with the same natural components. It has a high calcium content. There is a rich palette of microelements: magnesium, molybdenum, sulfur, copper, boron, iron. There is almost everything that cultivated plants need, the only thing missing is nitrogen. This is the uniqueness of ash as a fertilizer.

This natural product is especially valuable due to its complete absence of harmful chlorine.

Leave branded mineral mixtures created in chemical plants on the shelves of garden centers. Stone Age agricultural technologies in this case are not a vector of regression. Today, in the 21st century, the use of ash as fertilizer is again widely practiced. This ancient technology is now respectfully called organic farming.

Invisible differences

It is interesting that a complete description of the composition of the ashen remains was once compiled by the inquisitive young scientist Dmitry Mendeleev. It was he who determined that organic substances, when burned, form very different compositions of trace elements. For example, incinerated clover and the ashes of burnt oak firewood differ greatly in structural content.

Agronomists still use this work of the great scientist to this day.

Further research on the verge of organic chemistry and botany sorted out the information - how to fertilize with ash, which plants benefit from this or that type of ash, and which plants do not accept it at all. Ash feeding can be harmful to them.

firewood used in stoves, fireplaces, barbecues; green and dry vegetation (weeds, bushes, grass clippings, leaves).

This is the kind of treat that not only vegetable gardens will love, but also fruit trees.

The richest product in microelements is made from burnt grape vines, quinoa, and sunflowers. Such ash as a fertilizer is most accessible to roots looking for food. It has a unique structure, reminiscent of tiny dust.

The product remaining on the fire after burning willow, pine, and poplar contains several times less potassium than the ashes from the wood of fruit trees.

The ash of burnt coal is also not rich in potassium, phosphorus and calcium. Some people consider these stove products to be useless and even capable of causing harm. This is an incorrect judgment. After all, coal ash is not so poor. It is dominated by silicon oxides. It is good to use as a nutritious and loosening additive in heavy soils that contain a lot of dense clay.

For some plants, wood ash may not be enough as a complete fertilizer. For example, raspberries also require nitrogen.

Recipe for ash fertilizers

Here is a recipe for feeding some common plants in summer cottages:

Potato

When planting: one glass per hole under the tuber. No need to stir. Simply place the material on the ash base and bury it.

After two weeks, when hilling, add 2 kg per 1 sq. m. It is useful to repeat the procedure after a month. Dust the leaves after every rain.

What is the result? Great Benefit:

the Colorado potato trees will disappear or the damage caused by the beetles will be minimal; the potatoes will add several record kilograms per bush to the harvest; the tubers will contain a lot of starch.

Tomatoes and cucumbers

Pre-planting treatment. A couple of weeks before planting seedlings, loosen the beds and dig holes. Add half a cup of fertilizer to each, mix with soil, and water. If the soil is heavy, add a glass of sand.

Surface feeding. During the period of bush growth, regularly clear the root space of weeds. Once a month, fertilizing with ash is necessary (half a glass per bush). Loosen carefully (the roots are superficial), water the powder.

Root watering. Prepare a solution of ash and water (1:1). Leave the container in a sunny place in the garden and leave for two weeks. Then water the tomatoes and cucumbers at the roots in the evening. Dilute the concentrate with warm water (1:10). After “vitamin” watering, cover the beds with mulch from mowed grass.

Onion

Powder the seedling furrow generously. Young bulbs love ash. Arrange the onion seedlings, water and sprinkle with 2-3 cm of soil.

Peas, beans

A good idea is to use the ash as fertilizer for legumes. They love ash fertilizers and respond gratefully to them. When planting seeds, add 100-150 g of ash to the holes, mix with soil, water, and mulch. In a few days, friendly shoots will appear. For climbing varieties, install supports immediately to avoid tearing the roots later.

Grape

Grapes are the child of sun and ash. The best varieties grow on the slopes of dormant volcanoes, covered with many meters of ash layer formed by ancient eruptions. Feel free to add this substance too (for a well-developed bush - three kilos).

This method is universal. Its use is not limited to adequate nutrition of plantings. The soil becomes loose, and unwanted fungi and other bacterial life are inhibited. And also, the resistance of plantings to frost and disease increases noticeably.

Gardeners and vegetable gardeners also use ashes as an effective means of controlling plant pests.

What is the soil like on your site?

Any fertilizer serves, first of all, to enrich and structurally change the depleted soil, from which the root system draws the necessary substances.

Therefore, for a competent, conscious process of enriching the earth with ash, it is necessary to determine what kind of soil is in your garden and under garden trees, whether certain plants “like” it. In various soils, ash fertilizer lasts from two to four years.

You can conduct a fairly accurate analysis yourself, without resorting to the services of specialists.

Koloboks, sausages and rings

Sandy and peat soils are light and crumbly. They are easy to identify by touch and by eye.

Here's an easy way to identify other common soil structures.

Moisten a lump of earth and form a ball. Then roll the bun into a thin sausage in your palms (about the thickness of a pencil or even thinner). Try rolling it into a ring. Now compare with the list - the determinant. What your soil needs is listed in parentheses:

Sandy loam. The bun turned out, but the sausage fell apart. Root crops develop well, ground vegetables develop poorly. (Enrich with peat, clay, compost).

Loam. The sausage rolls into a ring, but it becomes covered with cracks. This soil is heavy; it is quite productive, but requires constant replenishment with organic matter. (Add compost, coarse sand, coal ash, peat, humus).

Alumina. The ring rolled without cracks. The substance is dense and heavy. Water and air do not penetrate well to the roots. Root crops develop poorly and grow small. (Dig up regularly, add sand, peat, ash, other organic matter, cover with mulch).

Acidity

Few garden and vegetable plants (cranberries, sorrel, turnips, radishes, ornamental heather, boxwood) develop well in acidic soils. They are contraindicated for most vegetables. For example, cabbage under such conditions will certainly get clubroot. Knowing how to use ash can effectively reduce acidity. Peat ash is especially good for these purposes. It is rich in lime, perfectly deoxidizes and alkalizes the soil. But there is little potassium in it.

There are clear rules for adding wood ash.

If the site has heavy soil, it is brought in in the fall for digging. If it is light, the work is carried out in the spring so that snow and rain do not carry away microelements into the porous layers lying below the surface root system of most vegetable crops.

Ash additives are often added when digging a garden. But it is better to pour them into already formed beds or holes for seedlings. In this case, the components must be thoroughly mixed with the soil.

These wonderful additives are suitable for all types of soil and for all types of vegetable and berry crops. But their excess can cause harm; follow the recommended proportions. Plants love moderation.

Be careful, dangerous poison!

Some summer residents are too lazy to take out garbage and burn it directly on their plots. Plastic bottles, foam packaging, plastic bags, construction and household waste are sent to the fire. They also put cardboard and newspapers there to make it burn better.

This barbaric practice not only poisons you and your neighbors with highly toxic smoke. Combustion products contain extremely dangerous substances - carcinogens. Once in the lungs, they are quite capable of causing cancer.

At the relatively low temperature of a fire flame, carcinogenic compounds are not destroyed, but only multiply when heated. There is no need to talk about useful substances in the burnt remains of garbage.

Of course, nothing can be “fertilized” with such poison. It will cause irreparable damage to the crop.

How to prepare and store

Carefully collect the contents of the stove ash pan or fireplace insert and store it in a dry, drafty place. Moisture deprives valuable food for garden dwellers of many microelements: they are either destroyed or washed away.

For storage, use waterproof bags. It is convenient to use large plastic water bottles with screw caps for storage.

Ash for the garden is collected and stored separately: wood, grass, straw, grape, peat. It is useful to label each package used, indicating the origin and composition of the ash.

A specially built brick fireplace for burning wood residues will be regularly replenished. You can adapt an iron barrel for a capacious “potbelly stove”.

Avoid burning wood contaminated with fungi and mold. In general, it is better not to use low-quality wood. In the city, dried tree branches are often cut down, but they should not be collected either: such firewood is thoroughly saturated with toxic exhaust from car engines.

Weight and volume

Finally, for the convenience of gardeners, we present some useful metric data. They will come in handy if you need to more accurately measure the amount (weight or volume) of an ingredient to “feed” delicate seedlings or create a complex fertilizer yourself.

So, how much dry ash is contained in common available measures:

in one tablespoon with top - 7 grams; in a 250 gram glass glass - 100 grams; in a half-liter jar - 250 grams; in a liter container - exactly half a kilo.

It is convenient to plan the use of ash as fertilizer over large areas in buckets. But nowadays these are very different containers in terms of volume.

Weigh the selected empty bucket on the steelyard, then fill it and weigh it again. Subtract the first number from the second. The result indicates the weight of the contents of your bucket. Now fertilization with ash will be accurate and verified.