Zinnia - growing from seeds, when to plant seedlings, important planting rules. What to do if zinnia seedlings are stretched? The zinnias dived. they almost all died. maybe wait until June and go straight to the flower garden

My mother grew majoras (the common name for zinnias or zinnias) when I was little. The flower resembles a steadfast tin soldier: here is a straight, seemingly strong stem, but if you try to break it, it will become all worn out, split into “hairs”, but will never break. To make a bouquet of such flowers, you cannot do without scissors or a strong knife.

Mom sows zinnia directly into the ground. I realized that if you grow seedlings in the house and transfer them to a flower bed at the end of spring, flowers will appear much faster. Out of habit, I destroyed several trays of seedlings, but then I worked on the mistakes and finally grew my first flower “harvest.”

You can buy and start germinating seeds from mid-March to early April. In cold regions, this work can be delayed until late April - early May.

  1. Soak the seeds. This is not necessary, but it will make them germinate faster. A growth stimulator can be added to the water.
  2. Choose a deep container or pot (from 10 cm deep). You can also plant the seeds one at a time in a pot (cup).
  3. In damp soil, make shallow (no more than half a centimeter) grooves. Place the seeds. They will germinate quickly - in 6-7 days. It is important to keep the container in a warm room, on a bright windowsill, under a plastic bag (or kitchen film, a transparent plate).
  4. Once you see the seedlings, give them 3 weeks to grow and become established. After this, the plants need to be picked in separate, not small cups, pinching the root - this will stimulate it to grow to the sides, and if the root of the flower becomes powerful, then the stem will be strong and the flower will be large.

You can see the work with seeds (with the result in the form of strong sprouts) here:

This video will show you the pick:

Zinnia can be planted in open ground in late May - early June.. If it is a ready-made seedling, the major will bloom very soon. And if you sow seeds in a flowerbed, zinnia will delight you with flowers only at the end of summer: 70 days should pass from germination to the appearance of flowers for this crop. That is, zinnia won’t even have time to “go wild”, and here it is autumn with cold weather.

Sprouts stretched out: reasons

If the seedlings are stretched out, the flowers will not die from this, but a good plant will not grow from such seedlings. Once in open ground, such zinnias will disappoint us with small and infrequent flowers. It is still possible to improve the situation. But before that, you need to understand what exactly is wrong.

Late landing

The bag with any seeds indicates the time limits recommended by the manufacturer for sowing and transferring the seedlings to an outdoor flower bed. It’s not worth sowing majors ahead of time, and then keeping them in the apartment anyway, since it’s still cold outside. The grown flowers will be crowded into a common tray, and due to the lack of space around the “body”, they will stretch upward, turning into “strings”.

Little lighting

This is probably the most common reason for pulling any seedlings.

First of all, seedlings sown ahead of schedule suffer from lack of sun. But even if you did everything strictly according to the calendar, your apartment may have heavily shaded trees or just northern windows, spring may turn out to be cloudy... There are a lot of reasons, but the result is the same.

Not the same room temperature

Each seedling has its own preferences. One loves cold, the other warm.

The most comfortable temperature for zinnia seedlings is about 20 degrees. Do you regularly measure the temperature in your room and think it is correct? Where is the thermometer located? Move it to a pot of seedlings for a couple of hours. Perhaps it is at this point that the temperature will be incorrect (it may be cold from the window, or, for example, the seedlings will be hot because the battery is on). By the way, it is the heat that causes the seedlings to stretch out - the cold often inhibits the growth and development of sprouts.

The interesting thing is that ideally the difference between day and night temperatures is important: the room should be warmer during the day than at night.

Excess moisture

Rewatering seedlings often goes hand in hand with the increased temperature in the room. It's simple: the air is hot, the soil dries out in record time. The owner sees the dry soil and once again reaches for the watering can...

This is how the seedlings turn into a tropical weed: it grows not roots or even leaves, but a flexible stem.

Wrong fertilizers

Young seedlings can be carefully fed with potassium and phosphorus (although if the soil is nutritious enough, I don’t even do this so as not to overdo it). If you mistakenly give the kids a lot of nitrogen (or the same phosphorus-potassium, but three times the amount), the sprouts will not form a good root system, stretching upward.

The planting is too thick

If the seedlings grow in a tray, like “herrings in a jar,” crowding each other, they will simply have to stretch out, because the leaves will not have room to grow to the sides. In addition, they will very quickly deplete the soil, and within a few weeks they will run out of nutrients from which the stems are formed. The third problem: taller stems shade the lower ones, they don’t have enough sun, so the poor things stretch upward.

This is why picking is so important for zinnia.

How can everything be fixed?

It is possible to grow seedlings by giving them a chance to find the right stem. The main thing is don’t rush to move it into open ground just yet.

Improving temperature conditions

If the room is too cold, there are two options: either move the pot closer to the radiator (but do not remove the greenhouse bag for longer, because heating devices dry out the air very much), or, if possible, make the overall temperature of the room higher.

There are several ways to cool seedlings:

  • in a room with a potty, often open the window for ventilation or constantly keep the window open;
  • move the pot to a colder room (or to a closed balcony, veranda);
  • at night, move the box to a cooler corridor;
  • If possible, lower the temperature in this room by turning off the radiator or making its temperature lower.

Although, of course, compared to seedlings of other crops that require cold (for example, cabbage likes 16-18 degrees during the day and 8-10 at night), zinnia looks less picky in terms of heating.

We give backlight

This crop needs about 12 hours of daylight (more is possible). Of course, in April the days are still too short, and the seedlings should be illuminated.

I keep a box in the kitchen. Since I am a housewife, I am constantly in this “office” and the light here almost never turns off - either the general lighting or the LED illumination of the workplace is on. They serve as a source of light for seedlings.

If you work all day, you should take care of a flower bulb. A neighbor bought an LED lamp and turns it on for her plants (including indoor flowers) all night. But my godmother spared no expense on a phytolamp (such as the one in the photo above). It produces little light and additionally serves as a night light in the room. Very comfortably!

Important! If you are using an incandescent table lamp, be careful. Unlike LEDs, these bulbs heat the air around them. Firstly, it will overheat the seedlings. Secondly, it can burn tender leaves.

Reducing the amount of watering and fertilizing

If you suspect that you are flooding the seedlings, do not take out the watering can at all until the leaves begin to wilt a little.

As for fertilizing, it is better not to give them anymore at all.

Introducing a growth regulator into the seedling “menu”

Plants with 3-4 true leaves can be watered with this “magic wand”. The drug will restrain the development of the stem, forcing the seedlings to grow the main thing - the root.

Options for such regulators: “Retacel”, “Strong”, “Tour”, “Stumpy”, “Athlete”. A bag costs from 15 to 20 rubles, so your budget will not suffer much, and the seedlings will be saved without unnecessary fuss.

Important! Apply the drug strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Picking seedlings

Zinnia is a flower whose seedlings need picking 3 weeks after germination. Don't ignore this advice.

If the sprouts stretch even in individual pots, check that they are not too small. If possible, first add soil to the pots (cups). Are they already filled to the top with soil? It makes sense to use larger pots. If there is nothing to buy them for, these are seedlings, why bother with them - transfer them to a cut-out plastic bottle, a milk or kefir carton...

Picked seedlings are not watered for 2-3 days and hidden in partial shade. This helps the sprouts to take root after a traumatic process for them. Then you can carefully water it, and 2 weeks later give the first fertilizing - a phosphorus-potassium mixture.

Let's summarize

  • Zinnia is sown from March to April, and in cold regions - in early May. By the end of May - beginning of June, you should already have strong seedlings suitable for planting in open ground.
  • Seedlings will stretch if their care is not taken care of. For example, there is not enough light in the room, it is too hot, the plants are too stuffed with fertilizers, they are planted densely. It may also be caused by germinating seeds too early.
  • If you change the care or successfully plant the seedlings in larger individual pots, the plants can be “fixed.” The main thing is not to immediately carry the elongated “bodies” into the flowerbed - puny seedlings with a weak stem and poorly formed root system are unlikely to take root successfully, and if so, the flowering may turn out to be very modest.

By the way, you don’t have to buy flower seeds! They can be collected from faded plants both in the fall and even next spring. In details:


Zinnia is one of the most popular crops used for garden decoration. It amazes with its variety of shades and lush flowering until the beginning of autumn. Flower growers are also attracted by the unpretentious care of the flower and the fairly simple cultivation of seeds or seedlings.

Many people believe that the correct spelling of the flower's name is "zinnia". This is not true, the correct option is “zinnia”.

Growing seedlings is quite important, because the plant is very sensitive to low temperatures. Zinnia can be transplanted to a permanent place only by the end of May or early June. If you sow the seeds directly into the ground, you will only be able to admire the flowering plant towards the end of summer. And I really want this to happen as soon as possible. Having decided to grow using the seedling method, you should know that the flower bushes can stretch out, the stem will become thinner, and the sprout can easily break. What to do in this case?

Growing conditions

First, it is worth identifying the factors that contribute to the elongation of zinnia sprouts. To do this, you need to know under what conditions seedlings should be grown.

  • Air temperature. For normal growth and development of the bush, it is necessary to maintain an optimal temperature of about 20°C.
  • Light . Since the crop is light-loving, it is advisable to provide additional lighting if necessary - at least 12 hours a day.
  • Moisture. The flower is drought-resistant, so it tolerates a lack of watering more easily than its excess.
  • The soil should be closer to neutral, loose and fertile, capable of simultaneously retaining water and allowing it to pass in excess.
  • Fertilizer. Zinnias require more mineral fertilizing; excess organic matter in the soil increases the risk of powdery mildew.

Failure to comply with the conditions for growing zinnia can lead to various consequences: stretching of seedlings, rotting of stems and inflorescences, disease, slowdown of growth and development.


Reasons for pulling seedlings

Having determined the optimal conditions under which seedlings develop normally, we can identify the following factors that contribute to their growth.

  • Early sowing. Zinnia seedlings develop very quickly; within a couple of months from the moment of germination, they begin to bloom.
  • High temperatures, especially in combination with insufficient lighting, also affect the elongation of sprouts.
  • Planting density– too many seedlings located in a small area do not allow them to receive the required amount of light.
  • Lack of light affects elongation, because the sprouts reach for the light, trying to get as much of it as possible.

Under such conditions, the sprouts lengthen, become thin and brittle, and the seedlings fall to the ground. To prevent this phenomenon, it is necessary to take into account some nuances of cultivation.

  • Since zinnia bushes develop very quickly, it is better to sow seeds by the end of April - beginning of May. It is better to plant strong sprouts with several true leaves, provided there is no chance of frost.
  • It is necessary to observe the optimal growing temperature: temperatures below 15°C contribute to slower growth and rotting of sprouts at high air humidity, temperatures above 25°C stimulate an increase in the length of sprouts, which negatively affects the stability of the crop.
  • It is better to plant seeds in separate pots so that each plant gets the necessary space.
  • In case of insufficient lighting, it is necessary to use additional lighting, increasing the daylight hours of the zinnia sprout to at least 12 hours.

What to do if, despite all the efforts and preventive measures, zinnia seedlings still stretch? How to slow down the growth of seedlings and rehabilitate elongated bushes?


What to do?

Of course, in this case, the best option would be to transplant the zinnia sprouts to a permanent location. To do this, prepare the soil in advance and make holes.

  • bury the seedlings into the ground so that adventitious roots appear on the excess length of the stem, covered with soil;
  • tie the plant to a support so that it does not break under the influence of wind loads.

The sprouts need to be planted at a distance of about 35 cm from each other so that they do not interfere with the “neighbors” growing.

However, transplantation into open ground takes place only after favorable weather conditions have formed and after all spring frosts have ended. If transplantation is not possible, then you can do the following.

  • Add soil to the “snail” or bowl where the zinnia is planted. This allows you to reduce the length of the stems due to the formation of additional roots in the covered area.
  • Cover part of the stem with soil to reduce its length. To do this, dig a small hole next to the sprout, place the stalk in it in a loop and sprinkle it with soil.
  • Change growing conditions: keep in a cool place at night to slow growth, and take it out into the sun during the day. This allows you to strengthen the root and make the stem thicker.
  • Use special preparations that stop the growth of the plant. They are bred and used strictly according to the instructions. For example, an ampoule is diluted with 1 liter of water and used during watering or spraying 2 times at intervals of a week.
  • Pinch the sprouts from the top. In this case, zinnia seedlings will stop developing, and future bushes will be more lush.
  • Plant into separate containers if the zinnia is stretched out due to a dense planting pattern. In this case, the sprouts need to be buried in the ground.
  • In cases where it is not possible to plant overgrown bushes in separate containers, you can simply tie them to supports. To do this, you can take bamboo skewers, wrap them around the plant in a spiral and stick them into the ground. You can use strapping wire or masking tape to secure the sprouts to the support.

When tying, do not squeeze the stem too much. To prevent this from happening, leave a small space between the support and the sprout.

Growers trying to grow beautiful, strong shoots are often frustrated when they stretch out. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to follow the rules for growing crops. But this doesn’t always work out: either the weather is cloudy, or it’s cool on the windowsill, or other factors can influence it. What to do in this case? Just don't panic! The bushes will quickly recover when transplanted, if there are only a few days left until this moment. If it is more than one week before planting in a permanent place, then it is worth using other methods that are no less effective. And by mid-summer you can admire the strong flowering plants on your site.

WHAT TO DO IF THE ZINNIA SEEDLING HAS EXTENDED? I love zinnias very much, and last spring I decided to grow flowers from seeds myself. But the result was quite disastrous - almost all the seedlings became very elongated. Tell me what to do if zinnia seedlings have stretched out? Zinnia is an ornamental plant from the Asteraceae family, which is used for growing in flower beds and also at home. During the flowering period, it produces beautiful inflorescences of various colors. Zinnia reproduces successfully by seedlings. You can sow the seeds immediately in open ground, but the young plants obtained in this way will bloom only closer to August. Therefore, many grow seedlings in greenhouse conditions, as this allows them to speed up flowering. One of the most common problems when obtaining seedlings is their stretching. Thus, the seedlings give a signal that certain mistakes were made in the process of caring for them. The reason that the emerged seedlings begin to stretch upward, forming a long unstable stem, may be the following factors: 1. Sowing seeds too early. Since the seedlings grow very quickly, you should not plant the seeds before April. Strong seedlings can be transplanted into the garden bed no earlier than the threat of night frosts has passed. 2. Lack of sunlight. For optimal seedling development, it is recommended to extend daylight hours to 12 hours with the help of additional lighting. 3. High room temperature. Air temperatures above 25 degrees Celsius promote active growth of shoots in height. 4. Dense plantings. When sowing in a common container, the seedlings growing close to each other begin to fight for a place in the sun, stretching upward. If mature bushes have already stretched out, they can be planted in the flowerbed a little ahead of schedule. In this case, the too long stem must be deepened into the ground - this way new ovaries will form on it. In addition, a support should be installed near each plant and tied up. Maintain a distance of at least 35 cm between bushes. Transplantation into open ground is possible only if the weather is stable and there is no nighttime drop in temperature. If the seedlings have not yet fully formed, or the long-awaited warming has not arrived, you can slow down the growth of zinnia. To do this, add substrate to the container where the seedlings grow. Or lay the seedling on its side and sprinkle half of the elongated stem with soil. Zinnia shoots that are too long can be neatly folded into a loop. Pinching the tops will allow zinnia to stop growing in height - thus, the plant will redirect its forces to the formation of side shoots. And in order for the stem to begin to grow in mass, the seedlings should be brought into a cool room overnight. To stop growth, young bushes can be watered or sprayed with a solution based on special preparations, for example Atlet (1 ampoule per 1 liter of water).

Zinnia is an ornamental plant from the Asteraceae family, which is used for growing in flower beds and also at home. During the flowering period, it produces beautiful inflorescences of various colors. Zinnia reproduces successfully by seedlings. You can sow the seeds immediately in open ground, but the young plants obtained in this way will bloom only closer to August. Therefore, many grow seedlings in greenhouse conditions, as this allows them to speed up flowering.

One of the most common problems when obtaining seedlings is their stretching. Thus, the seedlings give a signal that certain mistakes were made in the process of caring for them.

Why do zinnia seedlings stretch?

The reason that the emerged seedlings begin to stretch upward, forming a long unstable stem, may be the following factors:

  1. Sowing seeds too early. Since the seedlings grow very quickly, you should not plant the seeds before April. Strong seedlings can be transplanted into the garden bed no earlier than the threat of night frosts has passed.
  2. Lack of sunlight. For optimal seedling development, it is recommended to extend daylight hours to 12 hours with the help of additional lighting.
  3. High room temperature. Air temperatures above 25 degrees Celsius promote active growth of shoots in height.
  4. Dense plantings. When sowing in a common container, the seedlings growing close to each other begin to fight for a place in the sun, stretching upward.

How to save stretched seedlings?

If mature bushes have already stretched out, they can be planted in the flowerbed a little ahead of schedule. In this case, the too long stem must be deepened into the ground - this way new ovaries will form on it. In addition, a support should be installed near each plant and tied up. Maintain a distance between bushes of at least 35 cm.

Transplantation into open ground is possible only if the weather is stable and there is no drop in temperature at night.

If the seedlings have not yet fully formed, or the long-awaited warming has not arrived, you can slow down the growth of zinnia. To do this, add substrate to the container where the seedlings grow. Or lay the seedling on its side and sprinkle half of the elongated stem with soil.

Zinnia shoots that are too long can be neatly folded into a loop.

Pinching the tops will allow zinnia to stop growing in height - thus, the plant will redirect its forces to the formation of side shoots. And in order for the stem to begin to grow in mass, the seedlings should be brought into a cool room overnight.

To stop growth, young bushes can be watered or sprayed with a solution based on special preparations, for example Atlet (1 ampoule per 1 liter of water).

Strengthening stretched zinnia seedlings - video

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Features of growing zinnia - when to plant and how to care (video instructions)

Zinnia is known to many experienced flower growers and ordinary lovers of ornamental vegetation. This flower amazes with its rich variety of colors and bush sizes. In addition, such a flower crop requires only minimal care. And growing zinnia from seeds is such a simple process that it has become a favorite among many gardeners. For those who are not yet familiar with these flowers and do not know how to grow them from seeds, we dedicate this article.

Description of the plant

Zinnia is famous for its advantages - long flowering (for one flower - about 35 days), as well as longevity when cut. For example, you can use zinnia not only as a spectacular and long-flowering element of flower arrangements, but also as beautiful plants for a bouquet. When cut, zinnia can decorate a room for 1 to 2 weeks.

Zinnia is an annual plant grown from seeds. Thanks to their rapid growth, zinnias can add more color to your garden from early summer until autumn.

The seeds of this flower crop are quite large. Therefore, growing charming zinnia from seeds will turn into a fascinating process, because working with it is very simple. From the date of planting the seedlings, only 2-2.5 months will pass when the buds open and the plants bloom. You can find out more about how you can achieve these results below. We offer photos of flowers and a step-by-step description of the planting and cultivation process.

Magnificent zinnia can grow to gigantic sizes (for example, like the California Giant variety), or can be dwarf bushes, representatives of the Lilliput form ( on the picture).

Choosing a place for plants

Zinnia is a heat- and light-loving plant. Therefore, its cultivation on the site should be carried out in a place that is abundantly illuminated by the sun and not at all shaded. In this case, it is better to exclude places where there are drafts so that wind currents cannot damage the stems of the bushes.

In terms of soil, fertile and loose soil is suitable for growing zinnia in a personal plot. An important quality that soil must have is drainage. Since zinnia does not tolerate stagnant moisture in the soil, you can add sand when planting. In this way, it will be possible to “dilute” the soil and avoid stagnation of water after watering or rain.

You can grow zinnia on your site using seeds in one of the following ways:

  • sowing seeds at home for seedlings;
  • sowing the seedlings directly into the garden bed under the open sky.
  • Sowing to obtain seedlings

    Zinnia seeds can be planted for seedlings when the second half of April arrives. It is not recommended to plant seedlings earlier due to the fact that zinnia grows very quickly, as mentioned earlier. This can significantly complicate the transportation of seedlings and transplanting them into open ground. Even earlier planting of seeds to obtain zinnia seedlings is fraught with excessive elongation of seedlings, which, in turn, will affect the condition and development of flowers.

    For planting seedlings, you can use individual deep pots, which are filled with light and loose substrate.

    The seedlings of this flower crop are quite large in size. Therefore, they must be buried in the soil to a depth of approximately 1 cm. At the same time, additional covering of the containers with film is not required to create a greenhouse effect. You will be able to see the first shoots in about 5-7 days. They will be the same as in the photo.

    If the seedlings were planted in a box, then the seedlings will need to be picked in separate vessels. You can plant only 2-3 sprouts in one pot.

    Further, caring for the seedlings is not difficult. It will be enough for the seedlings to fertilize with fertilizers a couple of times. Also, before transplanting zinnia sprouts to the garden bed, they need to be hardened off, periodically taking them out into the fresh air, gradually increasing the intervals. Grown sprouts need to be pinched at the tops. This way you can achieve the formation of a more beautiful bush.

    Zinnia is not a frost-resistant plant, and therefore seedlings grown at home from seeds can be planted only when the ground has warmed up sufficiently. As a rule, seedlings can be transplanted into the garden bed at the end of May. Scheme for planting seedlings: 30-35 cm between plants and about the same in row spacing.

    Sowing directly into the garden

    Growing zinnia in a personal plot from seeds can be done by sowing them directly into open ground. Seedlings can be planted when the severe cold weather has passed.

    Holes for seeds are prepared with a depth of 5 cm. You can place several seedlings in one hole. If the planting time is correctly chosen, the first shoots will appear on the soil surface after a week. If necessary, it will be possible to thin out the sprouts, leaving about 30 cm between them in order to grow full-fledged flowers. It is recommended to cover the seedlings with special material so that possible frosts do not damage the crops.

    Caring for seedlings growing in the garden bed is also not difficult. The main thing is to water the soil moderately and feed the plants using complex fertilizers.

    Often, gardeners use this particular option for planting zinnia seeds, since growing it this way is much easier than using the seedling method.

    Even though the seedlings in the garden begin to bloom much later than the planted seedlings. So, for example, when planting seedlings at the end of May, zinnia flowers will bloom in June, and seedlings planted in a flowerbed in May will bloom at the end of July.

    You can view the process describing the cultivation of zinnia in the video.

    It is quite possible to collect the seeds of zinnia growing in the garden yourself. It is necessary to wait until the seed pods in the inflorescences are fully ripe. A change in their color to brown will indicate this.

    The seed pods should be carefully cut from the stem using sharp scissors. Dry seeds need to be removed onto a sheet of paper, which can later be used as an envelope for storing seeds until next spring.

    Zinnia seedlings

    Secrets of growing zinnia from seeds

    13.03.2014

    Zinnia is loved by many for its rich range of shades and gigantic flower sizes! What attracts me is the ease of growing it from seeds. Zinnia has another amazing feature that is dear to my heart. Her flower lives 34-35 days!

    And if you cut it and put it in a vase, it will last for a whole week, and sometimes more!

    • Growing zinnia from seeds in a flower bed
    • It is curious that if you write two “n” in the name of a flower, this will not be considered an error! Both options will be correct. Zinnia is an annual plant. It grows fantastically fast!

      From the moment the seeds are sowed until the first flowers appear, not much time passes - 2.5 months. And flowering lasts all summer, from late June to late autumn. Growing a flower is a fascinating process. Her seeds are large and easy to work with.

      You don’t have to wait long for seedlings, they grow quickly and easily take root in the flowerbed. Seeds can be sown directly into a flower bed in mid-May or seedlings can be grown, as you wish.

      ^ Growing zinnia for seedlings

      Seeds for seedlings are sown in mid-April and not earlier. March seedlings quickly gain height and by the time they are planted in the ground they even manage to acquire buds. It is difficult to transport such giants to the dacha - they can be broken.

      And where can you find so much space for seedlings at home? In addition, the older the plant, the worse it will take root in a new place. So, for seedlings you will need a large container, at least 10 cm deep. Remember, zinnia grows very quickly!

      The seedlings will be rather large, so place the seeds at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other and to a depth of no more than 1 cm. Moisten thoroughly and cover with film or glass. It’s great that you only have to wait 3-4 days for seedlings.

      When the green babies appear, remove the film immediately. Try not to overdo it with watering. The soil at the base of the plant should be barely moist, but not a swamp! When the sprouts become 10 cm high, each of them will need to be planted in a separate pot.

      Do not be afraid to deepen the seedlings to the level of the cotyledons. Very soon, the green leg of the sprouts will grow in the soil with adventitious roots. Another trick: in order for the root system to branch better, the main root must be pinched a little 1-2 cm and immediately into the ground! Somewhere from May 20, 2 weeks before When planting seedlings in the ground, you need to start “walking” them.

      In good weather, take it out onto the balcony. This way the plants will get stronger and harden. Approximately 4-6 weeks after sowing, the seedlings can be taken to the dacha. If tall varieties are sown, there should be 30-40 cm of free space between the plants, low-growing ones - 20 cm. As soon as the zinnias have settled a little in the new place, It’s time to pinch the top of their heads to make the bushes more branchy.

      Some do this even at the seedling stage, above the fifth leaf level. Well, it’s ready, all you have to do is wait for flowering!

      ^ Growing zinnia from seeds in a flowerbed

      Sowing zinnia seeds directly into the flower garden is less hassle. There is not always extra space for seedlings on the windowsill, and it is time consuming. Moreover, the flower grows well in open ground.

      And it gains strength in the air faster than in a greenhouse! When the threat of spring frosts passes, approximately somewhere after May 15, you can begin to sow the plant. Make beds in the area allocated for it. Perhaps you have your own ideas for arranging a flower bed?

      For example, in a circle or in a checkerboard pattern? Pay attention to what varieties and species you plant. Depending on the species and varieties, zinnias can be quite tall and quite small. In any case, do not sow the seeds deeper than 1 cm. I like to sow directly into the flowerbed.

      I sow 10 cm between seeds, and then at the stage of 4-5 leaves I thin out. I don’t throw away the removed plants, but plant them somewhere else in the flowerbed. That’s all the subtleties of growing zinnia from seeds. As you can see, it's not that difficult!

      But what a queue of neighbors I gather at the dacha on the eve of September 1st! Everyone wants a bouquet of zinnias for the teacher! But I don’t feel sorry for it, let my neighbors and school teachers rejoice with me! Photo by the authors: Les Serres Fortier, moonlightbulb, normanack, Theresa in MS.

      Elena Litvyakova: I never cease to be amazed at the diversity of nature: every flower is a miracle in its own way, and zinnia is one of them. The only drawback of this lovely flower for our places, where the frost-free period is only two months, is the heat-loving nature of zinnia.

      A long time ago, when my passion for flowers was just beginning, in early spring, as soon as the soil in the greenhouses thawed, I sowed seedlings of vegetables and flowers in them. Among the flowers I remember are asters and zinnias. And after the first frost, the aster seedlings also turned green, and the rows of zinnias died.

      It is painful to look at dead sprouts that did not bloom and did not show all their beauty. And at the end of summer, in August, in the Leningrad region we very often have one or two nights of frost, and after such nights the zinnias turn black. Growing zinnia is not difficult.

      It is better to sow seedlings in early April, plant them in small pots a month later, but plant them in the ground only after the end of spring frosts, otherwise all the work will be wasted. Zinnia cannot withstand even 1OS. This year there were huge plans, but not all of them managed to come true.

      I was also late in planting zinnia seedlings. But, while looking through the seeds, I came across bags of seeds purchased this year. I thought: the calendar says it’s June, the germination rate of zinnias is usually good, they germinate 4–6 days after sowing, and bloom two months after sowing.

      Therefore, they will bloom in early August. Now we need to exclude August frosts. In recent years, I have been growing many crops in containers: vases, basins and even buckets.

      Why not try growing zinnias like this? I have a greenhouse where I grow seedlings of cucumbers and tomatoes, pumpkins and zucchini, watermelons and melons. After planting them in the ground, the greenhouse is vacated, and I decorate it with petunias grown in pots, and plant melons and watermelons in large bags.

      I thought that zinnias could also be planted in containers and placed first around the area, and then, if there is a threat of frost, they could be brought into the greenhouse. And some are immediately given a place in the greenhouse.

      It is hot and light there, just the conditions that these plants need. But we must not forget that the lump of earth in the container dries out quickly. If you water without loosening, the water instantly flows down the walls of the container, and the soil remains dry. Before watering, you need to loosen the soil shallowly, and after watering, add a little earth or peat and sand.

      Zinnia varieties

      I prepared several very impressive envelopes for sowing. Here are some of them: Zinnia “Tangerine mousse”. Bright orange double, dahlia-shaped inflorescences 10–14 cm in size.

      Height up to 90 cm. Zinnia “Snow Queen” is the same dahlia-shaped flower shape, but only white. The height is also up to 90 cm. Zinnia “God of Fire” attracted me with its bright, rich red color and the shape of the petals. “Fiery red flames” - this is the description given to this flower.

      Long, narrow, rolled petals really resemble flames. The height of the plant is up to 75 cm. Zinnia cactus “God of the Sun” is a flower of amazing shape, orange color and diameter - up to 15 cm. And for the first time I met zinnia angustifolia “Acapulco”.

      The petals are burgundy-brown and the tips are yellow. A plant up to 30 cm tall will look very impressive in a flowerpot.

      Choosing land and landing site

      Any garden soil is suitable for zinnias, but it is better for them, and for any seedlings, to prepare the soil at the dacha or on the plot. This year I didn’t have enough land in the city to grow tomatoes; I had to buy more land from garden stores. To be honest, I was afraid that I would lose all the seedlings.

      When planting, add any complex fertilizer according to the specified rates. The place for zinnias should be sunny, without stagnant water. Zinnia will tolerate drought rather than excess moisture.

      Three weeks after planting, you can repeat fertilizing with complex fertilizer. And during flowering, add ash two or three times. I usually pour ash into a nylon cloth and, shaking, spray the ash in the area of ​​the roots, loosen it superficially and water it.

      Formation

      For the growth of side shoots after the formation of the fourth or fifth leaf, the plant must be pinched. The growth of the main stem stops, and shoots appear from the axil of each leaf.

      Can be formed in a standard form; let the main stem grow, removing the side stems, and then let the top 4-5 shoots grow. Lovers of everything unusual can form one single flower, just as they form a flower on Indian chrysanthemums. It is necessary to remove all the stepsons and leave one bud.

      This flower will amaze you with its size. You don’t have to shape it at all, the plant will still bloom.

      We fight diseases

      Zinnia seedlings can be destroyed by blackleg. When growing in a container for subsequent picking, there is no need to sow thickly, pouring plenty of water. Before sowing, spill the soil with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate, and pre-soak the seeds in epine. To water zinnia seedlings, I have a liter bottle with a tube inserted into the lid. When watering, I bring the tube to the ground itself, and the water does not get to the seedlings. There is also a way: we pre-soak the seeds until the sprout appears and plant them immediately in a pot, preferably 8x8 cm in size. Zinnia does not like picking, and it should grow in a separate pot more comfortable. On adult plants, it is necessary to remove wilted flowers, and in damp weather, spray a couple of times with fungicides or, I prefer, an infusion of garlic: crush 300 g of garlic, add a bucket of water, leave for a day, strain and sprinkle. Zinnias are good for cutting and last for 5– 6 days. If you wish, you can make a very impressive bouquet, no worse than from capricious gerberas. “Garden Affairs” No. 5 (49), 2011

      Refers to tall plants. A bush up to 90 cm high, with large leaves, with large hemispherical flowers.—- The diameter of the inflorescence is up to 10-12 cm, with rows of shiny petals tightly adjacent to each other, advancing on each other, like rows of tiles.

      Can be with double or semi-double flowers. Examples of varieties of dahlia-flowered zinnias: Dahlia-flowered - Violet This is a plant with a spreading bush up to 75 cm high, with double inflorescences, very dense, 9-12 cm in diameter, a beautiful purple color of different shades, blooms for a very long time and profusely until frost.

      Dahlia - Crimson Monarch

      Sprawling bush up to 70 cm, flowers up to 10 cm in diameter, dark red in color, also blooms for a very long time.

      Dahlia - Dream

      This is a variety of annual tall zinnia up to a meter high. The flowers are double, pink, up to 15 cm in diameter, very heat-loving, does not tolerate frost.

      The plant is drought-resistant, but requires regular watering. Dahlia - Polar Bear This type of zinnia reaches 80 cm, the inflorescences are double, bright white, up to 11-14 cm in diameter, looks very beautiful in a bouquet. The stem is strong and does not need garter. Zinnias look very good in flower beds, borders, borders, and in groups with other flowers. Low-growing varieties - pompons - are planted on balconies and rocky hills.

      Landing conditions

      Zinnia is a flower that requires sunny, windless areas and moist soil. Reproduction occurs by seeds.

      But the main conditions for zinnia are warmth and sufficient light at the planting site. She absolutely cannot tolerate frost.

      Flowers like soil that is drained, with lime, and saturated with mineral fertilizers. Zinnia flowers grow well in fertile soils, in well-lit areas of the garden, and they are drought-resistant. To ensure abundant flowering, humus or compost along with mineral fertilizers are added to the soil (it is better to fertilize in the fall).

      You can grow zinnia by planting seeds as seedlings. The seeds are sown in special boxes at the end of March. Approximately on the sixth day, shoots appear.

      In order not to damage the roots when picking, it is best to plant the seeds immediately in a separate pot. Grown seedlings should be pinched above the third or fourth pair of leaves to make the plants bush better.

      It is better to harden the seedlings - take them to a cool balcony, if possible - outside for several hours

      Seedlings planted in a permanent location require regular watering and fertilizing. It is also possible to sow zinnia seeds directly into open ground, but flowering will begin much later.

      Planting seeds in the ground

      You can plant seeds in the ground only after the spring frosts have passed. Plant in groups of several pieces no deeper than 5 cm. After a week, the first shoots will appear.

      When the sprouts grow to ten centimeters, they can be thinned out so that the sprouts are 20-30 cm apart from each other. In the southern regions, seeds are planted in the ground in May, several per nest. But in other areas of the country, it is better to plant seedlings, so flowering will come faster.

      To protect the shoots from frost, they should be covered with a special covering material. Flowering usually begins at the end of July. And it continues until frost.

      Zinnia does not tolerate heavy watering, so watering should be moderate. When watering, it is not advisable to allow water to fall on the leaves of the plant, otherwise it may get burned. Do not allow the soil to dry out.

      This leads to the fact that the flowers begin to become smaller, and the plant itself may die.

      Fertilizers, fertilizing

      Regular feeding is required three times a season: after planting shoots, during budding, and also after flowering. Zinnias behave well after cutting. They stand in a vase for a long time and delight all the inhabitants of the house with their presence for a long time.

      But for this you will need to choose flowers that are only three-quarters open. The cut of the flower should be immersed in hot water, not cold, as is customary, and only then placed in a vase with warm water.

      This procedure can be repeated several times, provided that the flowers begin to fade. After cutting, the flowers last for more than a week and retain their fresh appearance well.

      A bouquet of garden flowers such as zinnias, fragrant tobacco, lilies will bring joy and pleasure. Zinnia is perhaps one of the brightest flowers of the aster family. This is why many gardeners love her so much. This plant is an excellent decoration for any flower bed, especially since caring for it is quite simple.

      How to Grow Healthy Zinnia: Key Factors

      Zinnia is a representative of annuals. The height is up to 70 cm. The flowers are very persistent, bloom luxuriantly, and grow well. Their bud shape is similar to that of dahlias. Stems are straight and strong. They grow quickly, but are afraid of morning dew and humidity. Moderate watering promotes better formation of the petal calyx in zinnia. Growing a flower is not difficult. The plant is light-loving and does not tolerate frost. In order for it to develop better, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil. Any soil is suitable for zinnia. It is only advised to dig it up before planting and apply mineral fertilizers. After enrichment, the soil will become more fertile. Finally, add the following mixture: 1 tbsp. superphosphate, potassium sulfate, nitrophoska and loosen the soil. The place for growing zinnia should be warmed by sunlight and not be too windy. Remember that the flower does not tolerate waterlogging, drought and poor-quality drainage systems. Zinnia reproduces by seeds. They are sown in the soil in May, 3 seeds each, at a distance of 35 cm from each other. In order for the plant to bloom earlier, the flower is grown in seedlings. At the beginning of spring, the seeds are planted in small containers, 6 cm wide, 3 seeds each. At the beginning of summer, when frosts are not expected, they are transplanted to a permanent place using the transshipment method. Among the most destructive pests for zinnia are: spider mites (the fight against them is carried out by “Fitoverm” 2 ml per 1 liter of water), slug, aphid (1 table “ Sparks" per 10 liters of water), meadow bug, leaf miner, cutworm, common earwig. The most typical diseases: rot damage to the root system, the base of the stem. Against putrefaction, use the drug “Hom” for 10 liters 40 g. If the flower is sick with powdery mildew, then use the drug “Topaz” 1 ampoule (4 ml) per 10 liters of water.

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      • Planting zinnia for seedlings: rules

        Cultivation of zinnia seedlings begins in late March - early April. The crops will sprout quickly, in 5 days. When the first true leaves appear, the seedlings need to be picked.

        Then place them in separate cups. In containers, zinnias can be pinched for better branching of the stem. Small seeds are planted in boxes. After diving, large ones are sown in glasses of 2 pieces. After time, the weakest seed is determined and removed.

        In the soil outdoors, seedlings are planted when frost is no longer expected. Even a slight decrease in temperature will destroy zinnia seedlings. You can sow the seeds in open soil, but after warm weather has established. The plants will sprout and stretch, but will bloom later.

        Some gardeners use 2 methods: planting flowers through seedlings, and directly into open ground. After planting, zinnia requires fertilizer - the first time after planting, when the buds have formed. Afterwards, feed every month. Humus is suitable for nutrition.

        Make sure that the amount of nitric acid in the fertilizer does not exceed the permissible limits. Due to the high nitrogen content, the zinnia stems will rot and die. When the seedlings take root in a new area, trim the upper stems, this will promote more luxuriant flowering of the plant. Dried buds need to be trimmed so that new ones open. Zinnias differ in the type of inflorescences.

        Description of the plant

        Zinnia is famous for its advantages - long flowering (for one flower - about 35 days), as well as longevity when cut. For example, you can use zinnia not only as a spectacular and long-flowering element of flower arrangements, but also as beautiful plants for a bouquet.

        When cut, zinnia can decorate a room for 1 to 2 weeks. Zinnia is an annual plant grown from seeds. Thanks to their rapid growth, with the help of zinnias you can add more brightness to the garden from the beginning of summer until the arrival of autumn. The seeds of this flower crop are quite large.

        Therefore, growing charming zinnia from seeds will turn into a fascinating process, because working with it is very simple. From the date of planting the seedlings, only 2-2.5 months will pass when the buds open and the plants bloom.

        You can find out more about how you can achieve these results below. We offer photos of flowers and a step-by-step description of the planting and cultivation process. Magnificent zinnia can grow to gigantic sizes (for example, like the California Giant variety), and can be dwarf bushes, representatives of the Lilliput form ( on the picture).

        It is possible to grow such beauty by sowing seeds for seedlings at home. Another method is also practiced - planting zinnia seedlings directly in the garden bed. But both the first and second options require preliminary preparation of the site.

        Choosing a place for plants

        Zinnia is a heat- and light-loving plant. Therefore, its cultivation on the site should be carried out in a place that is abundantly illuminated by the sun and not at all shaded.

        In this case, it is better to exclude places where there are drafts so that wind currents cannot damage the stems of the bushes. In terms of soil, fertile and loose soil is suitable for growing zinnia in a personal plot. An important quality that soil must have is drainage. Since zinnia does not tolerate stagnant moisture in the soil, you can add sand when planting. In this way, it will be possible to “dilute” the soil and avoid stagnation of water after watering or rain. You can grow zinnia on the site using seeds in one of the following ways:

      • sowing seeds at home for seedlings; sowing seedlings directly into a garden bed under the open sky.
      • Sowing to obtain seedlings

        Zinnia seeds can be planted for seedlings when the second half of April arrives. It is not recommended to plant seedlings earlier due to the fact that zinnia grows very quickly, as mentioned earlier.

        This can significantly complicate the transportation of seedlings and transplanting them into open ground. Even early planting of seeds to obtain zinnia seedlings is fraught with excessive elongation of seedlings, which, in turn, will affect the condition and development of flowers. For planting seedlings, you can use individual deep pots, which are filled with a light and loose substrate. The seedlings of this flower crop are quite large in size.

        Therefore, they must be buried in the soil to a depth of approximately 1 cm. At the same time, additional covering of the containers with film is not required to create a greenhouse effect. You will be able to see the first shoots in about 5-7 days.

        They will be the same as in the photo. If the seedlings were planted in a box, then the seedlings will need to be picked in separate vessels. You can plant only 2-3 sprouts in one pot. Then caring for the sprouts is not difficult.

        It will be enough for the seedlings to fertilize with fertilizers a couple of times. Also, before transplanting zinnia sprouts to the garden bed, they need to be hardened off, periodically taking them out into the fresh air, gradually increasing the intervals. Grown sprouts need to be pinched at the tops.

        This way you can achieve the formation of a more beautiful bush. Zinnia is not a frost-resistant plant, and therefore, seedlings grown at home from seeds can only be planted when the ground has warmed up sufficiently. As a rule, seedlings can be transplanted into the garden bed at the end of May. Scheme for planting seedlings: 30-35 cm between plants and about the same in row spacing.

        Sowing directly into the garden

        Growing zinnia in a personal plot from seeds can be done by sowing them directly into open ground. Seedlings can be planted when the severe cold weather has passed. Holes for seeds are prepared with a depth of 5 cm. You can place several seedlings in one hole.

        If the planting time is correctly chosen, the first shoots will appear on the soil surface after a week. If necessary, it will be possible to thin out the sprouts, leaving about 30 cm between them in order to grow full-fledged flowers.

        It is recommended to cover the seedlings with special material so that possible frosts do not damage the crops. Caring for seedlings growing in the garden bed is also not difficult. The main thing is to water the soil moderately and feed the plants using complex fertilizers. Often, gardeners use this particular option for planting zinnia seeds, since growing it in this way is much easier than with the seedling method. Even though the seedlings in the garden begin to bloom significantly later than the planted seedlings. So, for example, when planting seedlings at the end of May, zinnia flowers will bloom in June, and seedlings planted in a flowerbed in May will bloom at the end of July. You can watch the video to see the process describing the cultivation of zinnia.

        How to collect planting material

        It is quite possible to collect the seeds of zinnia growing in the garden yourself. It is necessary to wait until the seed pods in the inflorescences are fully ripe.

        This will be indicated by a change in their color to brown. The seed pods should be carefully cut from the stem using sharp scissors. Dry seeds need to be removed onto a sheet of paper, which can later be used as an envelope for storing seeds until next spring.

        Zinnia - planting and care, growing from seeds

        Zinnia (lat. Zinnia) belongs to the genus of herbaceous and shrubby perennials of the Asteraceae family, native to Southern Mexico, which received its name in honor of the pharmacologist and botanist Johann Gottfried Zinn from Göttingen, who, as director of the botanical garden, supplied Carl Linnaeus with herbarium material for research. The Aztecs cultivated zinnia since 1500, and it appeared in Europe in the 18th century, immediately becoming a favorite decoration for gardens and aristocratic receptions. By the twentieth century, zinnia was already cultivated on all continents, and from 1931 to 1957, the zinnia flower was even a symbol of the state of Indiana, USA. Today, about twenty species are known, many varieties and hybrids of this beautiful flower, distinguished by its beauty and undemanding conditions for growing.

        Listen to the article

        Zinnia flowers - description

        Depending on the type and variety, the height of zinnia can be from 20 to 100 cm and above. The leaves of zinnia are entire, sessile, ovate, pointed towards the apex, pubescent with stiff hairs, arranged whorled or opposite. The inflorescences are apical single baskets with a diameter of three to fourteen centimeters, located on long peduncles. Reed zinnia flowers, arranged tiledly in one or several rows, white, purple, orange, yellow, red - all possible colors, except shades of blue; middle, tubular flowers are small, yellow or red-brown. The fruit is an achene with a tuft. Zinnia blooms from mid-June until frost, being resistant to heat and drought. The zinnia plant is cultivated as a bright and unpretentious garden plant that stands well as a cut flower. Perennial zinnia grows only in areas with warm winters. In our climate, zinnia in the garden is exclusively an annual plant, since it is not able to survive even short and minor frosts. Summer residents call this flower major. Annual zinnias and marigolds, daisies and marigolds are the main flowers for the rustic-style landscape, which is increasingly becoming fashionable in Europe. Zinnia is also appropriate in a flower bed with so-called noble flowers; it is also grown in the garden among vegetables, using its remarkable ability to stretch upward, creating almost no shadow.

      • Growing zinnia from seeds

        Sowing zinnia.

        Perennial zinnia, like annual zinnia, reproduces generatively. In places with a warm climate, where there are no frosts in May, it is possible to plant zinnia directly in the ground, but if night frosts are common in your area, be aware that zinnia seeds sown in the ground will die at a temperature of -1? C. That is why experienced gardeners believe that it is better to grow and harden this plant as seedlings, and then planting zinnia in the ground and subsequent rooting will be successful. Before sowing, wrap zinnia seeds in a cloth or gauze soaked in epin to determine which ones are viable and which are not. Fresh seeds hatch within a couple of days, while old ones will take a week to sprout. At the end of March or beginning of April, germinating seeds of two or three pieces are sown generously to a depth of one centimeter in peat pots with a moist substrate, which will subsequently avoid picking, which this crop does not like. The crops are moistened and placed in a bright place. The optimal temperature for germination of zinnia is 22-24? C. If you do everything correctly, sprouts will appear within a few days.

        Zinnia seedlings.

        Young plants quickly form adventitious roots, and if the zinnia seedlings have stretched out, just add a little soil to the pots. My zinnias did not grow very tall, but a friend complained that she put the crops in partial shade, and the seedlings turned into sickly translucent sprouts, so remember that zinnia seedlings require bright, indirect light. If the seeds are sparsely sown, you will not have to pick the seedlings, especially since zinnia does not tolerate picking well. At the end of May, in order for the planting of zinnia to be successful, the seedlings begin to be hardened by taking them out into the fresh air for a while during the day.

        Planting zinnia in open ground

        When to plant zinnias in the ground.

        When to plant zinnias in open ground, or rather, when can you plant zinnia seedlings? Zinnia is planted in the ground in the second half of May, towards the end of the month, when the danger of return frosts has passed. The plant prefers bright areas, protected from the wind, with neutral, well-drained, nutritious soil. Before planting zinnia, the intended area is cleared of weeds by digging the soil to a depth of 45 centimeters and adding leaf humus, compost or rotted manure to it while digging at the rate of 8-10 kg per m2, and it is best to do this in the fall.

        How to plant zinnias.

        Zinnia flowers are planted at a distance of 30-35 cm of one specimen from another by transshipment or together with a peat pot. You will see zinnia blooming in early July.

        Zinnia flower - care

        How to grow zinnia.

        If planting the zinnia was successful, you can talk about caring for it, which consists of regularly loosening the soil, weeding and infrequent but abundant watering at the root so that water does not fall on the flowers. When zinnia begins to bloom, remove faded flowers in a timely manner. The powerful stems of zinnia do not need tying or support.

        Zinnia fertilizer.

        From the moment the seedlings emerge until the time when the zinnia is planted in the ground, the seedlings are fed with mineral fertilizers with a low nitrogen content three times. A plant planted in the ground is fertilized with mineral fertilizers or liquid manure at least twice during the summer: the first time a month after planting, and the second time during the budding period. That's all the trouble. As you can see, planting and caring for zinnia is not at all burdensome.

        How to pinch zinnia.

        Readers often ask whether they pinch zinnias and, if so, how and when to do it. If you want the zinnia to bush, you need to pinch it above the third or fourth pair of leaves while still in seedlings, although you can do this when the zinnias in the open ground have already taken root and taken root. But if you want to grow elegant flowers on long stalks for cutting, pinching zinnias is not necessary.

        Pests of zinnia.

        The most common pests that bother zinnia are aphids, chafers, snails and slugs. Gastropods are usually lured by beer bowls placed here and there around the site, or pieces of slate or roofing felt scattered between plants, under which mollusks like to crawl. You will have to collect them manually. May beetles will also have to be collected by hand and thrown into a bucket of soapy water. Aphids are destroyed by spraying zinnias with a solution of tar soap at the rate of 10 g per liter of water, and in case of severe infestation - with a solution of fufanon or actellik, prepared in accordance with the instructions.

        Zinnia diseases.

        Among the diseases, it is possible for zinnia to become infected with gray rot, fusarium, bacterial spot, but most often - powdery mildew. If at least one zinnia leaf is disfigured by gray-brown round spots left on the plant by bacterial spotting, take immediate action: tear off the leaves that have traces of the disease, and in case of severe infection, destroy the entire plant - there is no cure for this disease. Gray mold and fusarium are treated with fungicides (Topsin-M, Fundazol), as well as powdery mildew, which appears as a white coating on the above-ground parts of zinnia - Topaz, Skor, Topsin are more suitable among fungicides to get rid of this scourge. It must be said that diseases arise primarily due to violations of the rules for growing the plant, for example, due to too thick planting or excessive watering, so first diagnose the zinnia problem, eliminate it, if possible, and then work on the mistakes - re-read rules for plant care, find and analyze the discrepancy between them and how things really are. This is the only way you can avoid troubles in the future.

        Zinnia after flowering

        How and when to collect zinnia seeds.

        Zinnia seeds ripen about two months after flowering begins, so mark a few of the first ones to open. Shoots of the first order have the best quality seeds, so you should remove all side shoots from the specimens you have chosen for seed ripening. When the ripe baskets turn brown, they are cut, dried, the seeds are removed, cleaned of dry remains of flowers and stored in a dry place at a constant temperature. Zinnia seeds remain viable for 3-4 years.

        Perennial zinnia in winter.

        As has been mentioned more than once, zinnia is grown in the garden as an annual plant. But if your zinnia does not grow in open ground, but in a container or pot, then with the onset of autumn, bring the flower indoors and care for it like a houseplant, turning it from an annual zinnia into a perennial one.

        Types and varieties of zinnia

        Of the more than twenty species of zinnia, only four are grown in culture: graceful zinnia, narrow-leaved zinnia, also known as Hage zinnia, thin-flowered zinnia and zinnia linearis. The first two species served as the basis for fruitful breeding work, and, thanks to its results, today we cultivate in our gardens not only the main types of zinnia, but also many beautiful varieties and hybrids of this plant.

        Zinnia elegans

        - a herbaceous annual up to 1 meter high and higher with simple white, orange and pink inflorescences. The stem is straight, mostly unbranched, round in cross-section, densely pubescent with hard hairs; all shoots end in apical inflorescences-baskets. The leaves are sessile, entire, ovate, with a pointed apex, 5-7 cm long and 3-4.5 cm wide, the surface of the leaf is pubescent, like the stem. Inflorescences with a diameter of 5 to 16 cm, simple, semi-double and double, consist of reed flowers up to 4 cm long and up to 1.5 cm wide, painted in all kinds of colors, except shades of blue, and median, tubular flowers of yellow or reddish-brown color . Graceful zinnia blooms in June and can bloom until the coldest weather. In nature, it is most common in southern Mexico. In culture since 1796. Varieties and hybrids of graceful zinnia are classified according to several characteristics: by the structure of the inflorescences, by their shape, by the height of the stem and by the timing of flowering.

        According to the timing of flowering, there are early-blooming, mid-blooming and late-blooming zinnias.

        According to the structure of the inflorescences, varieties are divided into simple, semi-double and double.

        Depending on the height of the stem, it happens:

      • high zinnia(60-90 cm), grown for cutting, since it looks somewhat bulky in a flowerbed;
      • medium zinnia(35-50 cm) - suitable for both cutting and decorating flower beds;
      • dwarf zinnia, or low growing zinnia(15-30 cm) - usually these are well-branched bushes, grown both in flower beds and in balcony containers and simply in pots.
      • Zinnias are divided into seven categories based on the shape of their inflorescences. In our climate, the most commonly grown of these are:

      • zinnia dahlia– powerful bushes, spreading or compact, 60 to 90 cm high with shoots of the first order. The leaves are large - up to 12 cm long, the inflorescences are hemispherical, double, up to 14 cm in diameter. Varieties: “Violet - terry zinnia 60-75 cm tall with dense inflorescences of different shades of purple, “Orange Koenig - on stems 60 to 70 cm high, bright red-orange double inflorescences up to 14 cm in diameter, Polar Bear - compact plant in height up to 65 cm with densely double white inflorescences with a greenish tint;
      • zinnia Lilliput, or zinnia pompom are compact branched bushes no higher than 55 cm with a large number of shoots of the second, third and fourth order, small leaves and small inflorescences, only up to 5 cm in diameter, resembling a pom-pom on a hat. Varieties: “Little Red Riding Hood - a densely double variety up to 55 cm high with truncated-cone-shaped or rounded inflorescences of a bright red hue; “Tom Thumb is a compact bush up to 45 cm in height with dense double red inflorescences in the shape of a slightly flattened ball; “Tambelina is a variety mixture of different shades with a bush height of up to 45 cm and inflorescence diameter from 4 to 6 cm;
      • zinnia fantasy- almost spherical compact bushes 50-65 cm high with large leaves and loose curly inflorescences, in which narrow reed flowers are rolled into tubes and curved in different directions, and at the ends some of them are forked. Varieties: “Fantasy - a bush up to 60 cm high with double loose inflorescences up to 10 cm in diameter in different shades - purple, red, bright yellow, purple, red-orange, pink, white, salmon, etc.; “The gift is a bright red zinnia.
      • Also popular in the culture of other countries:

      • Californian giant zinnia– varieties of terry zinnias with a diameter of up to 16 cm with imbricated reed flowers and a stem height of up to 1 meter or more. They differ in relatively late flowering;
      • giant cactus zinnia– varieties with a height of 75 to 90 cm with double inflorescences up to 11 cm in diameter with reed flowers rolled into a tube, sometimes wavy with raised tips;
      • zinnia supercactus– varieties with the same inflorescences as those of giant cacti, but no more than 60 cm in height;
      • zinnia scabiosa(aka anemone-flowered) - varieties with an inflorescence up to 8 cm in diameter, in which reed flowers are arranged in one row around the middle, consisting of tubular flowers overgrown with corollas, which makes the middle look like a hemisphere, colored to match the reed flowers.
      • Haage zinnia (Zinnia haageana), or narrow-leaved zinnia (Zinnia angustifolia)

        also originally from Mexico. This is an annual erect plant that forms branched bushes. The leaves are sessile, lanceolate or elongated, pointed. The inflorescences are small, simple or double, bright orange. Varieties: “Glorienshain is a highly branched bush up to 25 cm tall with double inflorescences, in which the reed flowers are dark orange at the base and red-brown at the ends; "Persian Carpet Mixed" series with semi-double bicolor inflorescences of red with lemon, white, orange and yellow - a large mass of this zinnia really looks like an oriental carpet. The English variety mixtures “Starbright” and “Classic” have also become famous - plants with inflorescences of white, yellow and orange tones up to 30 cm in height with a thin and weak, but highly branched creeping stem. These zinnias are mostly used as ground cover plants. Zinnias of the “Sombrero” variety look nice in a flowerbed - inflorescences of a red-brown hue with an orange border.

        Zinnia tenuiflora

        usually used to create landscape flower beds and are bushes about 60 cm high with angled thin stems of a reddish hue. The inflorescences are small, up to 3 cm in diameter, the reed flowers are narrow, bent, with curled tips, of a purple hue. Varieties: “Red Spider.

        Zinnia linearis

        - sometimes it is confused with angustifolia zinnia, because it has thin and sharp leaves, like the ends of nail scissors. This is the smallest of the cultivated species - branching, almost spherical bushes grow no higher than 35 cm. Linearis inflorescences are small, reed flowers of yellow color with an orange edge. Zinnia linearis is suitable for growing in pots, in balcony containers, on alpine hills and in small flower beds. Varieties: “Golden eye - white center of tubular flowers, reed flowers of white color - the variety is similar to an ordinary chamomile; “Caramel – the color of the reed flowers is caramel yellow, the center is black; “Yellow Star is a variety with yellow inflorescences.

        From crossing the Haage zinnia and the graceful zinnia, many hybrids were bred, in particular, the “Profusion” series, which is very popular among flower growers - low bushes up to 35 cm, strewn with small multi-colored daisies. The “Magellan” series is also gaining popularity - bushes up to 35 cm tall with densely double dahlia-shaped inflorescences with a diameter of up to 10 cm in coral, cream, orange, pink, red, cherry, salmon and yellow colors. Recently the Swizzle series appeared in gardens, consisting so far of two varieties - Cherry Ivory with cherry baskets with cream tips of reed flowers and Scarlett Yellow with red inflorescences and bright yellow tips.

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