Let's start with who radio amateurs are. Amateur radio, as a mass phenomenon, arose along with the appearance of the first radio receivers in everyday life in the twenties of the last century: many were interested in what was inside and how it worked. Essentially, a radio amateur is an engineer without a diploma.
By the way, a few words about this fat: if you had to solder old antenna connectors with a dull gray coating, then it is very difficult to solder it with rosin. This is not forgotten. But with neutral fat it’s very simple and fast, as they say in one touch!!! The main thing here is not to confuse it - do not use acidic fat instead of neutral fat.
As in the case of soldering irons, sooner or later you will have to purchase other solders and other fluxes. It all depends on the size of the electronic components and the design of their housings.
How to store radio components
Of course, you can dump everything into a big pile and look for the right part from it. Such an activity will take a lot of time and get boring very soon, and in the end, it will destroy all enthusiasm, and amateur radio will end there. Although, most likely, it will simply force you to look for other storage methods.
Modern parts are small in size, and a home craftsman can only have so many of them. For these purposes, special boxes with cells are sold in stores and radio markets. It is better to put the parts in a small cellophane bag. If you can’t buy such a box, you can simply glue together several matchboxes. Boxes with sections for threads and needles, sold in fabric stores, are also a good idea.
Rice. 2. Cassette for storing radio components
Measuring instruments in a radio amateur workshop
Avometers and multimeters
It is completely impossible to design or repair electronic devices without measuring instruments, because electricity has no taste, no color, no smell (as long as nothing burns). If you remember Ohm's law, then you have to measure current, voltage and resistance in electrical circuits. But it is not at all necessary to have three separate instruments: an ammeter, a voltmeter and an ohmmeter. It is enough to purchase a combined Ampere-Volt-Ohmmeter or just an Avometer. This universal device is also often called a tester.
Such names are most often applied to the good old pointer instruments. A good pointer tester is considered to be one whose input resistance in the DC voltage measurement mode is at least 20 KOhm/V. Such a device will not “offset” the measurement result even in high-resistance sections of the electrical circuit, for example, at the bases of transistors.
Currently more popular. They display the measurement result in the form of numbers, which does not force you to recalculate the readings in your head, as in the case of using a dial gauge. The input impedance of multimeters is much higher than that of pointer meters and is 1 MΩ at all limits. In addition to voltage and resistance, almost all models of multimeters can measure the gain of transistors. Additional functions include measuring capacitance of capacitors, frequency, and temperature. Some models have an audio frequency square pulse generator.
To successfully study radio electronics, a beginning radio amateur must have tools. At least the minimum set of them necessary for the design and installation of devices. By developing his home radio workshop, the radio amateur will replenish it with tools and devices.
Often, the first thing a novice radio amateur wants to do is assemble and solder one or two of some, perhaps relatively primitive, electronic devices. Luck here directly depends on what tool you use.
Of course, the most important tool for radio amateurs (not only beginners, but also experienced ones) is electric soldering iron. Hence, it is the main tool in the home laboratory. In addition, a radio amateur needs to not only maintain the soldering iron in working condition, but also take proper care of it. When not in use, the electric soldering iron must be kept on a stand. You can buy it, or you can make it yourself.
One of the options for a homemade stand is made from a board and a pair of metal holders that are located on the sides. They are bent into an M shape and attached to the ends of the board with small nails or screws. It is also possible to make holders using copper or aluminum wires with a large cross-section.
To practice radio electronics, you need to purchase a 40 W electric soldering iron. And to work with small-sized radio components, you will have to get an electric soldering iron, which has a power of 25 watts and has a thin copper tip.
There are also electric soldering irons with non-burnable tips. Their rods are not copper, because of this the solder does not stick to the tip well. During installation, it is more difficult to work with such a soldering iron, and sometimes extremely inconvenient. It is advisable to use a soldering iron with a non-burning tip when repairing or dismantling devices. Each non-fading tip is equipped with a special coating (nickel, iridium, or any alloy - depending on the manufacturer). Due to the coating, sharpening of the fireproof tip is contraindicated. Otherwise, the tip will fail. The coating is often made of insufficient thickness; this has been the case with many rods of poor quality.
A novice radio amateur can start with a “classic” electric soldering iron with a copper tip. Its main advantage is that processing the rod is not difficult. When required, the tip can receive one or another configuration that is necessary for the specific job being performed. You can read about which soldering iron is best to buy in the article:
The copper tip can be sharpened with a file without any problems. The working part of the soldering iron can become the shape that is required at any particular moment. After properly preparing the working part, it is easier to hold the solder on it in order to deliver it without loss to the point where soldering occurs.
When high-precision soldering of microminiature elements is carried out, they work with a soldering needle, which is also called a micro-power electric soldering iron or micro-soldering iron. Its power is low: from six to eighteen watts. They are powered not from alternating current from the mains, but from special direct current sources that produce a voltage of six volts and a power of four to six watts. A rechargeable battery, battery pack, or AC adapter can be used as power sources.
When connecting a soldering needle to a DC source, we must not forget about its power consumption. Micro soldering irons on sale are rarely equipped with power supplies. This means that after choosing a micro-power electric soldering iron, it is necessary to clarify its power and supply voltage. When connecting a micro-soldering iron to a source, it is necessary to take into account the polarity.
When installing low-lead radio components and wire conductors, it is extremely difficult to do without wire cutters or side cutters. Using these tools you can shorten the leads of radio elements and conductors. In addition to large nippers, you should also acquire miniature analogues, since during installation you have to work with small parts.
Now the industry produces a great variety of tweezers, there are both regular and SMD tweezers. Almost always, SMD tweezers cost slightly more than regular ones.
Even a beginning radio amateur should be armed with narrow-nosed, thin-nose, or round-nose pliers. Narrow-nose pliers are pliers, but have elongated locking noses. Tools such as thin-nosed pliers and narrow-nose pliers are used when forming the terminals of radio components. Thanks to the elongated shape, it is possible to carry out various operations during the installation of radio components, so as not to catch other radio components. Such actions are not always possible with ordinary pliers. 
Long-nosed pliers differ from thin-nosed pliers in that their noses are elongated and rounded. Their main purpose is to form the terminals of the elements. For work, you should look for thin-nosed blades as small as possible - since you will have to work with very small elements. Important tools for a radio amateur are various screwdrivers. A novice radio amateur should have several Phillips screwdrivers (in some sources - “phillips” or “plus”), as well as flat (“minus”). 
During installation and dismantling, it is often necessary to open the housing. Almost always fastening is done using self-tapping screws, screws or self-tapping screws. That is, a long Phillips screwdriver will be very useful. A similar screwdriver is necessary when dismantling a modern TV, in which the screws are hidden in deep grooves, that is, it is simply impossible to unscrew them with a short screwdriver. A miniature flat screwdriver with a working edge 4-6 mm wide will also come in handy. With this screwdriver you can easily adjust various resistors for adjustment, inductive coils, and disassemble small-sized devices.
To open the cases of mobile phones, modern players, or other miniature devices, you will have to use a universal screwdriver that has several interchangeable tips for slots of different shapes. Modern electronic devices are characterized by the presence of all kinds of screws, bolts and screws with many different slot shapes. That is, such a screwdriver will also be very useful. 
A folding knife, which in everyday life may be called a penknife, is also very useful. With this tool you can strip the insulation of wires, as well as remove insulating varnish from wires, and remove oxides and dirt from soldering surfaces. A folding knife is also a very useful tool in a radio workshop. And since it takes up little space, its storage and transportation are not particularly difficult.
The tools described above are the basic tools that any radio amateur should have. But in addition to them, a number of specialized tools and devices may be required, but this is a topic for another discussion.
Digital and analog multimeters Taking measurements Reading schematics: wires, cables, buses and connections Reading Schematics: Amplifiers
Video of the channel “reviews of packages and homemade products from jakson” about useful tools for a radio amateur. They can greatly simplify and improve your hobby. You can buy all this in this Chinese store.
Convenient tool for soldering.
They can easily remove melted solder. A radio amateur will need this to solder parts even with multiple outputs, like microcircuits.
Side cutter.
Wire cutting tool. The main difference from simple wire cutters is a more convenient form for biting off even hard-to-reach leads.
Vise for printed circuit boards.
This is a good alternative for securing boards more tightly. Their cost is cheaper than a third party.
When working with small parts, it is convenient to use tweezers. Soviet tweezers are better than most modern ones. If this is not possible, you can purchase a good option with ceramic tips in China. The latter are insulators.
Magnetized tray.
When disassembling or repairing any equipment, we often come across a bunch of various small parts. For convenient storage of bolts and other small things, there is a special magnetized tray. Thanks to him, the radio amateur is unlikely to lose small parts.
Multimeter.
It is unlikely that any radio amateur can do without a multimeter. Probably any radio amateur knows about its purpose and multifunctionality. The choice of multimeter in Chinese stores is wider than in the market in your city. The price is more reasonable, however, if you are willing to wait a little for delivery.
Insulation stripping tool - stripper.
Perhaps this tool is for the lazy and not at all mandatory. Why use it if you can easily remove the insulation the old fashioned way with your teeth. Well, seriously, you already know what it’s for.
Copper braid.
Another useful tool for removing solder. It is more efficient than a desoldering pump. The principle of its operation is very simple. Copper braiding, impregnated with flux or rosin, absorbs all the molten solder. But there is one significant drawback. Sooner or later it ends. This is what distinguishes the almost endless tin pump from it.
Scalpel.
Another useful tool. It is an alternative to a stationery knife. It's inexpensive. The kit includes an additional blade that can be easily changed.
Due to its compact size, it is more convenient to work with. Unlike most other cutting tools.
Hot glue gun.
When assembling homemade products, you often have to fasten parts together. One durable and practical method is to use hot melt glue. The sticks for this gun are cheaper than most other types of glue. However, they do not have an expiration date. This tool is easy to use. Order quality options that cost a little more. The cheapest glue guns quickly break down. Moreover, they pose a fire hazard.
Source: youtu.be/nRNoUpIZIhY
1. Soldering iron – 306 rubles.
This is one of the most popular soldering irons on Ali Express with a power of 60 watts. It has a regulator for this power from 200 to 450 degrees Celsius. Judging by the reviews, you can safely add plus 100 degrees to these indicators. The soldering iron comes with a stand. The soldering iron has protection against bending of the wire, which is 1.5 meters in length. The rubber band does not heat up and the soldering iron is comfortable to hold. The soldering iron tip is made of nickel-plated copper. This tip is durable and does not oxidize, as it is copper. The stings are not magnetic. The heart of this soldering iron is the ceramic heating element. The soldering iron heats up quite quickly. This model costs about 370 rubles. Ceramic analogues in Russia can be bought twice as expensive. It is worth noting that the ceramic element in these soldering irons is designed not for 220 Volts, but for 110, so in order for this soldering iron to serve for a long time, it is best to keep its power regulator at a minimum, that is, at 200 degrees. You can turn it on and warm it up at maximum, but as soon as it reaches operating temperature, you should turn the regulator to minimum. The operating temperature will be about 300 degrees. In general, for household needs, taking into account the price, the soldering iron is really good.
2. Desalter pump – 224 rubles.
This device is called a tin pump. This thing is quite inexpensive, but very effective for soldering radioelements, especially centipedes. It works on the principle of a pump, only in the opposite direction. In theory, its white nose should be able to withstand high temperatures. Testing has shown that the spout actually does not melt. Overall, this is a very useful thing that works as expected. It has a metal body and high suction power. The tool is quickly and easily disassembled for cleaning. An internal piston automatically cleans the solder with every use.
3. Antistatic tweezers – 447 rubles.
These are special antistatic tweezers. According to the seller, the tweezers are made of stainless steel. At first glance, the tweezers are really good. It has high strength, high hardness and wear resistance. It closes very accurately and is also not magnetic. The set includes 8 pieces of different lengths.
4. Solder - 81 rubles.
This solder is of quite decent quality. Solder 63 by 37, diameter 0.8 mm with two percent flux. Judging by the reviews, they can be used for soldering. Keep in mind that it is refractory. It is stated that its weight is 50 grams. If you unwind it and weigh it separately, the weight of the solder will be 30 grams, and the weight of the coil will be 20 grams. At first glance, it seems that there is a lot of solder here, but the coil has a double bottom. This was done not to deceive the buyer, but so that buyers could hide something here, for example, some radio parts. In fact, there are only two layers of solder wound here.
5. Flux RMA-223 – 138 rubles.
Flux RMA-223 is designed for desoldering, not soldering. The set includes 5 pieces. Sold in a 10 ml tube. Provides a smooth weld surface and good insulation. Non-toxic and of good workmanship.
6. Flux NC-559 – 242 rubles.
This flux is needed for soldering. Reviews about it are good. The flux is in special tubes for better preservation. A special pistol is sold for it, which is quite expensive. There is an option to use a ten cc syringe.
7. Braid - 83 rubles.
On Ali Express you can order such a copper braid to collect excess solder from printed circuit boards. It costs about one and a half dollars. The length is approximately one and a half meters and the width is 3 mm.
8. Third hand – 597 rubles.
This assistant was called “Third Hand” for its functionality and usefulness in use. Such a device costs about 600 rubles. This thing has a magnifying glass. The structure itself is hinged. The device has a weighty stand, which contains three little batteries (not included) so that you can turn on the backlight. The body also contains two LEDs for use in dark rooms. The thing is very convenient and greatly facilitates the process of soldering and desoldering. There is an adjustable alligator clip. This is an ideal tool when a third hand is needed for work.
9. Heat-shrinkable tubes – 35 rubles.
You can order these heat-shrinkable tubes on the website. They are supplied in bags of 2 and 3 mm. This is a very convenient thing for insulating wires. The original diameter is approximately halved.
10. USB soldering iron – 275 rubles.
This is a five-volt portable soldering iron that can be powered by anything that has a USB connector. Works great, has a touch switch. Its trick is that it heats up very quickly, turns itself off and can be powered by a Power Bank or a cigarette lighter in a car. Of course, it cannot be considered as a main soldering iron, but as a soldering iron in a situation where there is no outlet, this is just the thing. Fast heating and cooling means you can work with it quickly and efficiently. Materials of manufacture: plastic and metal. The total length of the soldering iron is 16 cm, the length of the handle is 11.5 cm. Presented in black. The kit includes a special protective cap. This is a good option for beginners and amateurs.
How to choose a soldering iron for radio making
A soldering iron is one of the main tools in everyday life when you need to connect wires or re-solder a radio component. First of all, you should start choosing based on such a parameter as power. The lowest-power soldering irons with a power of up to 10 watts are used in professional work and, as a rule, are used exclusively with microcircuits or overlay elements on the board. In general, a hairdryer is used to solder processors at home, but that’s a different story. In our case, the recommendation is to take a soldering iron with a power in the range of 25-60 watts. For soldering elements on a board, it is better to use a 25-watt one, for soldering wires with a cross-section of 1.5-4 mm2, it is more convenient to use a 60-watt one, it warms up the wire better, and therefore the soldering is more reliable.
The next thing you should pay attention to is the material from which the sting is made.
Here we can distinguish: a copper tip and a tip with a nickel coating (multi-alloy tips).
Copper tips have good thermal conductivity, which can be convenient for quick heating, but in certain situations it can lead to overheating of the part itself. At the initial stage, we carefully recommend using a copper tip. There are a lot of nuances that are easier to manage with a copper tip. In fact, when choosing a tip, you need to understand that what is important first of all is the shape and size of the tip. Copper can be easily cleaned without fear of damaging the coating. The main disadvantage of copper is, of course, wear and susceptibility to corrosion, but timely tinning and proper care extend the service life.
The next very important element is the handle. The main choice is between a plastic and wooden handle. For children, and even beginners at the first stage, we would recommend a wooden handle.
Very often the weight of the handle is important, or rather the soldering iron, when placed on the surface, should remain on the handle, and in no case fall over the tip (this applies to novice solders with low-power soldering irons, it is better not to take a powerful soldering iron yet), You yourself understand that this is fraught fire if you don't watch it in time.
If you have an idea in your head to take a soldering station with the ability to adjust power and temperature, then this is an excellent option, especially if you plan to regularly do soldering in the future. The question arises of price and regular maintenance of the soldering iron.
Of course, after purchasing a soldering iron, take the necessary accompanying materials: solder, a soldering iron stand, the surface on which to solder (you can just use a board, it’s convenient to use a 200x200 mm mica plate), FLUX for soldering copper, technical ammonia for cleaning.
After everything is prepared, it is necessary to proceed with the first heating and preparation of the soldering iron, but it is better to consider this separately. The operation and maintenance of a soldering iron is a separate topic and will be discussed later.
If you don’t know where to start, take an inexpensive low-power soldering iron, try soldering with it in different conditions (on the street, at a height, in a car, soldering large wires, soldering small wires, microcircuits, different metals) and you will understand that It is important for you in the first place, after that you will go shopping more consciously.
Tools
- Materials
- Organization of the workplace
1. Soldering iron
The soldering iron, of course, is the main and most necessary tool for a radio amateur.
In essence, this is a very simple tool - an ordinary electric heater: the soldering iron is plugged into a socket, and after a while its tip heats up to the required temperature.
Let's see what kind of soldering irons there are in general. Let's start the review with unsuitable models for our purposes.
A powerful soldering iron for soldering pipes, metals, basins and pans - we don’t need one like this for delicate radio engineering work!
The gas soldering iron operates from a built-in gas cartridge and is therefore very convenient for working in the field. But we will be doing amateur radio at home, so we don’t need a gas soldering iron.
The optimal tool for beginner radio amateurs is an electric soldering iron with a power of 25-40 W. The soldering iron handle can be wooden or plastic – it doesn’t matter.
Perhaps the main parameter of a soldering iron for beginning radio amateurs is its power. A soldering iron that is too powerful (more than 60 W) will heat up excessively and can damage the printed circuit board and radio components. A low-power soldering iron (with a power of less than 25W) is designed for soldering very small radio components and is more suitable for experienced radio amateurs. For soldering standard parts from Master Kit kits, the power of such a soldering iron may not be enough.
The optimal power of a soldering iron suitable for beginner radio amateurs is 25...40W.
The soldering iron can be purchased in radio engineering and hardware stores in your city, at radio markets, in specialized stores, in large chain hypermarkets (Leroy Merlin, OBI, AUCHAN, etc.). If you live far from large cities, then you can order a soldering iron, soldering station and any other tool in online stores (“Elektronshchik”, “Dessie”, “Chip and Dip”, etc.). These stores deliver goods by mail to anywhere in Russia.
An ordinary soldering iron can cost 200-300 rubles.
The soldering iron is simple and inexpensive, and it is very natural to start taking your first steps in amateur radio with its help. But there are also certain inconveniences, the main one of which is the unstable temperature of the tip.
The melting point of solder is about 270C, and the optimal temperature of the soldering iron tip is about 290...320C. But the tip of a regular soldering iron can heat up to a temperature above 400C a few minutes after plugging it into the socket. Soldering at this temperature turns out to be of poor quality, since its components “burn out” from the solder. In addition, such a high temperature can damage radio components and the printed circuit board.
There are many ways to solve the problem of tip overheating. The simplest of them is to periodically turn the soldering iron on and off in the network. Amateur radio literature presents many diagrams of homemade power regulators for a soldering iron, and you can use one of these recommendations. But, if amateur radio really captivates you and becomes your hobby, it would be wiser to “fork out” for a so-called soldering station.
The simplest soldering station is a block with a tip temperature control knob. The included soldering iron and network cable are connected to the unit.
It is enough to set the required temperature with the handle, and the soldering station will maintain the temperature of the soldering iron tip unchanged.
More expensive models of soldering stations may have a digital indicator that displays the set and current temperature of the tip. The soldering station kit may include a soldering iron holder and a set of replacement tips.
The simplest soldering station can cost from 1000 rubles, and for 3000 rubles you can buy a very decent semi-professional model with a temperature indicator and a set of replacement tips.
Using even the simplest soldering station is much more convenient to work with than with a regular soldering iron. But pleasure from work is the most important thing, right?
2. Radio engineering side cutters
The second most important tool after a soldering iron is radio side cutters.
Let's start with a review of models unsuitable for amateur radio.
These are wire cutters for electricians. They can cut through thick wires, for example. Or even nails and piano strings (some professional instruments allow such “bullying”). But there is no such thing as a universal tool. And pliers that can cut through a thick nail are not suitable for delicate radio installation work. We will need radio engineering side cutters.
They look something like this:
You can buy such side cutters in the same place where you buy a soldering iron (see above).
The price can range from 50 rubles to several thousand rubles. Of course, side cutters in the upper price category are more appropriate for daily work in production, but I would not recommend purchasing cheap side cutters for 100 rubles, since they will most likely be “disposable” and inconvenient to use. Decent side cutters for amateur radio purposes can cost in the range of 300-500 rubles.
The simplest test for the suitability of side cutters: try cutting the most ordinary paper with them. If they can easily handle paper, most likely there will be no problems with cutting the leads of radio components. By the way, even brand new side cutters “for 100 rubles” may not cope with this “paper test”, so draw your own conclusions.
3. Tweezers
It can be used to bend leads, hold a radio component, etc. When cutting leads, you can hold them with tweezers - then the cut leads will not scatter throughout the room.
But, since all this can be done with your fingers, then, perhaps, tweezers are not the most necessary tool for a beginning radio amateur.
4. "Third hand"
When soldering, we hold a soldering iron in one hand and a solder rod in the other hand. But what should you use to hold the printed circuit board? The third hand is missing...
There are devices that are called “third hand” in amateur radio jargon. The design in the basic version is outrageously simple: a base and metal clothespins that secure the printed circuit board. Often the “third hand” is supplemented with a magnifying glass and a soldering iron holder. Of course, you can make some kind of board clamp yourself. But, since commercially available models are inexpensive - about 200 rubles - it is easier to purchase a ready-made holder.
5. Solder
Solder is an absolutely necessary material for soldering. This is a fusible wire, which melts under the action of a hot soldering iron tip, and after a few seconds hardens, mechanically fixing the output of the radio component and the printed conductor. Since the solder is electrically conductive, electrical contact between the parts is also ensured.
Solder consists of lead (about 60%) and tin (40%). In addition, the solder may contain various additives that improve the quality of soldering: silver, various additives, etc.
Depending on the composition of the solder (the ratio of lead and tin content), it melts at a temperature of about 270C. Therefore, the temperature of the soldering iron tip should be slightly higher than the melting temperature of the solder.
Some types of solder contain flux, which serves to remove oxidation and improve solder flow. It is much more pleasant and faster to work with this solder; you do not need to purchase flux and rosin separately, and this is the kind of solder I recommend buying.
We include small rods of solder in some beginner kits, but it should be considered more like free samples, and you need to buy solder separately to work. Solder is supplied in the form of spools of different weights. The well-known domestic solder “POS61 with a rosin channel” or its imported analogs will be suitable.
Another important characteristic of solder is the diameter of the rod. It is most convenient for beginning radio amateurs to work with a rod diameter of 1...1.5 mm.
A spool of good solder with a rosin channel can cost about 300-500 rubles, and this amount will be enough for occasional use for at least a year. You can buy solder in the same place where you buy a soldering iron (see above).
Previously, rosin and flux (a solution of rosin in alcohol + additives) were used to remove oxides from printed circuit boards and radio components, as well as to improve the spreadability of solder, and it was recommended to purchase them separately.
But now, provided that you use modern solder with a rosin channel, as well as new tinned, that is, coated with a layer of tin radio components and printed circuit boards (Master Kit kits include only such high-quality components), you will not need to purchase anything additional - all the necessary additives are already contained in solder.
6. Alcohol
After soldering, traces of the flux contained in the solder remain on the board.
Strictly speaking, modern high-quality solders allow a no-clean process, that is, the board does not need to be cleaned after assembly, and nameless Chinese electronics manufacturers do just that. But a cleaned board looks much neater, and all reputable electronic equipment manufacturers clean their boards.
In amateur conditions, it is best to use alcohol, an old toothbrush and napkins. Wet the brush in alcohol, thoroughly rub the printed circuit board with it, and at the final stage of cleaning use ordinary napkins.
It is recommended to use non-alcohol-containing liquids (cologne, vodka), but technical alcohol as the most effective cleaner.
A liter bottle of isopropyl alcohol can cost 150-200 rubles, but it will be enough to clean circuit boards and other surfaces for several years.
Workplace
You will need a simple table and chair.
To avoid damaging the working surface of the table, it is better to cover it with a sheet of cardboard, plywood or glass. It’s more pleasant and safer to work on a clean, uncluttered table, so it’s better not to make a “mess” on it (in which the likelihood of losing some small radio component increases sharply).
Make sure your table is well lit. The general overhead light in the room is not enough for delicate work, so be sure to include a desk lamp.
Ensure your work area is well ventilated. Solder vapors are unlikely to cause noticeable harm to health during occasional amateur creativity (here we are not talking about the professional daily long hours of work of radio assemblers in production). The use of special hoods for amateur conditions is unnecessary, but a regular fan that drives smoke away from the face is a good solution! It is also better to ventilate the room and wash your hands after soldering.
To consolidate the acquired knowledge in practice, you can use the beginner radio amateur kit.
Previously, descriptions of simple electric musical instruments with buttons or keys were published in the literature. In this instrument, the keyboard is replaced by a fingerboard; the contacts are metal frets, to which the current collection wire is pressed. Resistors are included between the frets, the total resistance of which determines the frequency of the RC oscillator assembled on one chip (Fig. 1). The greater the resistance between pins 2 and 8, the lower the pitch. The number of parts is reduced to a minimum, so the circuit can be recommended for repetition by beginning radio amateurs. Parts DD1, C1, C2, R1 are placed on a small circuit board, and resistors R2...R15 are inside a homemade neck. The sound range of this instrument is 2 octaves with closure (the lowest note is C and the highest note is also C). The circuit is powered by a 3336L flat battery with a voltage of 4.5 V, the current consumed during operation is up to 12 mA. At “idle speed”, when the current collector is not pressed against any of the fret contacts - about 5 mA. To extend battery life, a power switch is required. If the current collector is pressed simultaneously against two frets, then one, higher note will sound (the one shown to the right in Fig. 1). The generator circuit is similar to that shown in. The fretboard allows you to play
melodies using a “legato” (smooth) technique and, unlike buttons, does not make clicks. This instrument has a diatonic system (without flats and sharps), but this does not interfere with the performance of many melodies. The instrument is made in a small homemade case, inside of which there is also a loudspeaker and a power source. The dimensions of the tool are approximately 330x85x46 mm. The dimensions of the housing are determined mainly by the dimensions of the loudspeaker and the GB1 battery. The housing assembly diagram is shown in Fig. 2. Neck 15, connecting bar 9, sidewalls 3.13, current collection stand 2, top sill 16 and cubes 5, 7 are made of wood (spruce, pine or, for example, birch of fairly good quality) according to the drawings (see pictures). The base 8, top cover 12 and sides 4, 6, 10 are made of three-layer plywood. Metal plate 11 is made of aluminum with a thickness of 1.5...2 mm.
Rice. 1. RC oscillator circuit
Rice. 2. Assembly diagram of an electric musical instrument:
1 - current collection; 2 - stand; 3,4,6,10,13 - sides of the body; 5.7-cubes; 8-base; 9-connecting bar; 11-metal plate; 12-top cover assembly; 14 - overlay; 15-neck; 16-nut
The base is attached to the bar 9 using screws - two with a diameter of 4x22 mm and one with a diameter of 4x28 mm (Fig. 2), passed through an aluminum plate 11. On top of the bar, a bar 15 is attached with two screws with a diameter of 3x23 mm with a flat head. Before installing the bar in it Using a sharp knife, a groove is cut for resistors R2..,R15 and a wire, and transverse cuts about 1.5 mm wide for the frets; in the upper part, a blind hole with a diameter of 3.5 mm is drilled for an M4 screw, which clamps the current collector. The holes in the neck for the heads of mounting screws with a diameter of 3x23 mm are countersunk from above to a diameter of approximately 5.5 mm.
Holes are drilled in the base corresponding to the holes in the circuit board for M2 or M3 screws. A screw with a diameter of 2x7 mm is screwed into the end of the neck to secure the current collector. The circuit is assembled on the board and installed in the case. The fingerboard 14 is made from getinax, and the fret plates are attached to it. Made from pieces of copper wire with a diameter of 1 mm (you can use wire from transformers, Fig. 3). The front side of the frets is cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper, and the back side is bent and soldered.
Rice. 3. Assembly details of an electric musical instrument
Rice. 4. Approximate installation view
A loudspeaker and a fresh battery are connected to the circuit and tuning is made - this can be done using an instrument with a standard tuning fork tuning (the leftmost note in Fig. 1 is up to the 1st octave, the farthest right is up to the 3rd octave) or using a frequency meter (Table . 1).
First, resistor R1 is selected, then in series from R2 to R15. You should use “aged” resistors (at least 1 year old after the factory). If you don't have a suitable resistor at hand, you can connect two in series or in parallel so that you get a note of the desired pitch. The circuit uses the following parts: microcircuit K155LAZ (old designation K1LB553) - can be replaced with KIZZLAZ (K1LBZZZ) or try K555LAZ; capacitors C1, C2 ~ MBM or series K71, K70, K73; resistors - MLT, MT with a power of up to 0.5 W or other small ones. Instead of loudspeaker BA1, you can use a small-sized loudspeaker of other types. It should be noted that with a larger loudspeaker, for example, 1GD-40, you can achieve better sound quality, but this may require changing the dimensions of the case or even rearranging it. Switch SA1 - toggle switch TV2-1 or another.
The setup with resistors R2...R15 installed on it on the back side is installed with screws with a diameter of 2x7 mm on the neck. If the resistors do not fit into the groove, it is widened or deepened locally. On the top cover 12 is installed using three M3 screws with washers and nuts and three 2x7 mm screws.
The mesh for the loudspeaker (Fig. 4) is made of brass, the edge of which is curved. The edging part is made of slofosti (flexible foil-coated fiberglass). Sidewalls 3,4, 6,10,13 are glued to the base (for example, with Moment-1 glue), a battery is inserted, and cubes 5 and 7 are glued in the corners for the screws securing the top cover 12. The contacts for the battery are made of tin from a tin can.
Table 1. Setting by frequency meter
The front side of the top cover is covered with nitro varnish. Sidewalls 4, 10 are finished on the outside with veneer. The neck 15, the top nut 16, the sides 3, 4, 6, 10, 13, the base 8 and the connecting block 9 are painted with stain and also covered with nitro varnish (before coating with stain, the overlay 14 should be removed from the neck). After the fingerboard is installed on the fingerboard again, stand 2 and top saddle 16 are glued. On a screw screwed into the end of the fingerboard, current collector 1 is fixed and sealed - a stranded wire from which the insulation has been removed. The current collector is stretched and clamped with an M4 screw at the end of the neck, the sound of the instrument is checked by pressing the current collector to each fret, if necessary, the top nut 16 and stand 2 are filed or extended. Marks are glued to the 3rd, 5, 10, 12th frets, making it easier to orientate yourself on the fingerboard during games - they can be made from colored adhesive film, a possible configuration is shown in Fig. 3 covers 14. The top cover is installed on the body with four screws with a diameter of 2x7 mm. The wires that connect the speaker and switch to the circuit must be long enough so that the cover can be easily opened to replace the battery. The wire going to the “+” of the battery is red, the wire going to the battery is blue or white. The electric musical instrument is ready.
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