How to connect a heated floor to a thermostat - connection diagram, tips. Connecting a heated floor to a thermostat How to connect a thermostat to a heated floor

Everyone who is starting an apartment renovation wants to create the perfect floor covering, and new technologies contribute greatly to this. All materials are now available and varied. These are numerous types of ceramic tiles, laminate, parquet, or self-leveling flooring with a 3D effect.

But in addition to the decorative properties, one should not forget about the physical ones, for example, stepping on a cold tile after taking a hot bath is unpleasant. Therefore, the quality of the floor covering lies not only in its beauty, but also in its comfortable temperature.

Types and principle of operation

There are two main types of heated floors:

water;
electric.

Water heated floor is not common among apartment owners in ordinary multi-storey buildings, because such re-equipment of water supply systems in many regions of our country is prohibited by law. Most often, water floor installation is recommended in private homes., where it will undoubtedly be most beneficial and safe for consumers. Pipes for such installation are usually made of metal-plastic or polyethylene.

An electric heated floor is convenient for users because, using it with a temperature controller, you can save energy and make its temperature as comfortable as possible for yourself.

Nowadays, a two-zone controller is often used, which can control the temperature on different heated floors located in adjacent rooms.

Electric floors come in several varieties:

Cable heated floor

The most economical among electric heated floors. Sold in construction stores in the form of skeins, laid in a snake pattern on a special reinforcing mesh. Subsequently filled with concrete screed. Voltage is applied to the cable and it generates heat.

There are two types of resistive heating cable:

single-core;
two-wire.

The last one, two-wire, is most often used.. The reason for this is electromagnetic radiation; it comes from a single-core electrical cable more than from a two-core cable. This is due to the fact that two conductive wires emit two vortex fields, which are at least partially compensated by each other. And since the influence of electromagnetic fields on the human body adversely affects its functioning, it turns out that two-core cable is safer for our health. The use of single-core mats is advisable outside the living space.

Heating mats

The thickness of the heating core is only 3 mm, which allows you to lay the floor both dry (directly under the laminate) and wet (for example, in the adhesive layer of tiles). The price of heating mats is higher than that of a simple cable heated floor, but they also have more advantages: installation is simple and the mat heats up faster, because the cable is closer to the surface.

Film infrared floor

This is a thin flexible thermal film, which consists of heating elements (carbon or bimetallic) along the edges of which copper busbars are located, through which electric current flows. It features completely dry installation and can be installed under laminate, carpet, parquet, and tiles. The heat generated by an infrared floor is distributed evenly, which is why it differs from simple electric heated floors based on a heating cable.

Connection diagram

Installing and setting up an electric heated floor is a fairly simple task. The main thing is to correctly position the heating elements, connect the system to the thermostat and to the power source. By following the recommendations, you can correctly install heated floors with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialists.

Regardless of the type of heated floor being laid, it is necessary to prepare a thermostat. You need to connect it to the network, think about whether it will be powered from an electrical panel or from an existing outlet. As a rule, thermostats already show a connection diagram to facilitate the installation procedure. It is also necessary to make a ditch in the wall. In the future, you will need to run two corrugations there: in one of them there will be a temperature sensor, and in the other - the power wires of the heating cable. Only after these measures have been completed can the actual installation of the heated floor begin.

When connecting a cable floor, you need to bring out the two ends of the power cable to the thermostat (the coupling is subsequently filled with concrete screed).

The simplest and most effective way to lay a cable is a snake, but any other method can be used, as long as the cables do not intersect.

Next, you need to install a temperature sensor; it should be placed in a special plastic tube. It will be possible to check the cable heated floor for functionality only after the concrete screed has completely dried. It is necessary to connect the wires that power the entire system, the power wires for the heating cable, as well as the temperature sensor wire.

The principle of laying a thermal mat is similar, you just need to correctly calculate the power per square meter. After laying the mat, it is filled with a thin layer of concrete screed or tile adhesive and a decorative coating is laid on top. Do not use thermal insulation as it will cause overheating. The coupling is also located inside the screed.

The layout of the infrared film floor differs from the previous ones only by the use of a special substrate based on foil film. It allows you to reflect infrared rays in the desired direction.

Installation and configuration

From the point of view of saving energy resources, installing a water floor is the most effective. All pipes of closed systems are controlled by the so-called comb system (collector) of the heated floor. It is a distribution unit in which all the pipes of closed heating systems converge.

The comb performs several functions at once:

Reduces the temperature of the supplied water. The temperature of the heated floor should not exceed 45 degrees.
Provides the necessary heat in the room, controls the flow in each circuit. For this purpose, flow meters are provided in the collector; they are responsible for water consumption.

The cabinet with the collector is installed relative to the finished height of the planned heated floor. It is recommended to place the collector without a cabinet at a height of at least 1 m from the floor level.

Also, the system often requires the inclusion of a three-way valve to regulate water flows. It is its presence in the system that makes it possible to supply water of a stable temperature to the heated floor distribution. There is a thermostatic bushing on the valve, which allows you to regulate the heating at the outlet. Mixing of water occurs between the hot water coming from the boiler with the liquid coming back from the system, which gives maximum savings.

Thus, the circulation in the system looks like this:

Hot water from the boiler enters the collector.
Then it enters a three-way valve; if the water temperature is higher than the desired one, the valve opens to allow cooled water to enter.
Mixing occurs inside until the temperature reaches the desired level.
The valve closes.

As for electric heated floors, in this case you will have to be puzzled by choosing a thermostat and setting it correctly, they are:

with manual or electronic control;
with and without programming capabilities.

The simplest thermostats are mechanical, controlled by a rotary wheel. They have a significant drawback - increased energy consumption, because in this case it is easy to forget and leave the heated floor on.

Electronic thermostats - controlled by pressing buttons; the desired temperature and the current one are displayed on the LCD screen.

Electronic programmable thermostats have the same appearance as simple electronic ones, but are supplemented with the function of turning the floor on and off at a certain time and even depending on the day of the week (weekday/weekend). The use of such devices is not only convenient, but also helps to save a considerable amount of electricity if programmed correctly.

The only problem for some users may be the difficulty of programming such a thermostat. To do this, manufacturers include fairly detailed instructions for use, adjustment and configuration in the kit.

The electronic thermostat is connected according to the diagram specified by the manufacturer on the housing. Near the terminals intended for a particular wire, there are instructions: two terminals for the floor temperature sensor, three for the power cable (phase, neutral and ground) and two for the heating cable of the warmest floor (for a two-wire one, 2 wires are used, for a single-core one, respectively , one).

When working with the installation of a thermostat, do not forget to follow basic safety rules:

The room should be de-energized.
The operating temperature of the thermostat is from -5 to +40 degrees.
Cleaning must be carried out without the use of caustic chemicals.
It is worth checking the functionality of the thermostat only after complete completion of work; you should not start it if the device is disassembled.

Manufacturers rating

Today, the choice of underfloor heating systems in stores is quite extensive. In this regard, it can be difficult to choose from such a variety a truly high-quality product that meets all requirements.

Therefore, it is necessary to consider the main manufacturers and compare the features of their products:

"Devi"– a manufacturer from Denmark, representing cable heated floors. This brand has an undeniable advantage: Devi service centers are found in almost all large cities of our country, so if problems arise, you can always call a repair specialist who will help solve your problem. The warranty for underfloor heating from this manufacturer is 20 years, and the cost of their systems is often lower than that of competitors. Devi also produces high-quality thermostats, so many give the brand a well-deserved first place.

"Teplolux" is a Russian manufacturer that became a leader in the domestic underfloor heating market in 2010. The manufacturer provides a 25-year guarantee, the price for this product is very reasonable, and the range is quite wide. Teplolux produces ultra-thin heated floors, mobile ones, and many others designed to create comfortable conditions.
"Energy" is a British manufacturer that initially established itself in its homeland, and subsequently in other countries of the world. Its advantage over other manufacturers is the environmental friendliness of its materials. Also, Energy thermomats are considered one of the most economical both in terms of cable power consumption and the cost of the equipment itself. The manufacturer's warranty is 20 years.

A water heated floor, a diagram of its connection and installation, the addition of water in the heating system - this is the information that you will learn in this article. Installing such a heating system is a difficult process and before work you need to find out all the information in order to avoid mistakes.

A warm floor in a house or apartment helps fight dampness, drafts and cold, and it also lasts for many years. Water can cool down as it passes through the pipes, so the uniformity of heat transfer into the room depends on proper installation. Installation of pipes starts from the walls and ends at the exit or in the center.

The key to effective heat distribution throughout the room is the correct connection of the collector, which regulates the temperature. Next, you will learn how to complete all installation operations and start a warm water floor and make sure that you can do it yourself.

Connecting a heated floor to the boiler

combined when the heating system contains radiators in addition to underfloor heating;
and heating only underfloor heating.

With a combined heating scheme, there must be a mixing unit (three-way valve and circulation pump), since the temperature of the coolant in the radiator circuit (70°C) is significantly higher than the temperature of the heated floor circuit (30°C). The boiler heats the coolant to a temperature of 70°C, which is directly supplied to the radiator circuit. And for the heated floor circuit, cold return is mixed with the coolant coming from the boiler so that the temperature at the inlet of the heated floor circuit is 30°C.

Ordinary gas boiler (discharging high-temperature coolant into the system), but only in conjunction with a mixing unit.
Gas boiler with "warm floor" mode. But keep in mind that in low-temperature mode the heat exchanger will fail very quickly.
Condensation a gas boiler. Low temperature mode is optimal for it; it is in this mode that the boiler has maximum efficiency. But the price is 2-3 times higher than regular models.

The price of a condenser is two ordinary ones, it seems to me that the benefits of a condenser are completely killed by the difference in price.

The use of a condensing boiler for underfloor heating was discussed in great detail on the forum.

Connecting the heated floor to the boiler can be done independently. Before connecting the heated floor to the boiler, it is necessary to install a manifold cabinet and, in fact, install the warmest floor with water circulation heating.

As a rule, the system is connected to a wall-mounted gas boiler. The manufacturer does not matter in this case, because The installation process and operation of all boilers follows a similar principle. It does not matter whether the floor system is connected to the boiler or whether you have a radiator heating system at home.

However, in the case of a warm water coating, the connection is usually made to the boiler.

The conclusions are as follows: hot water outlet from the equipment into the heating system (supply), outlet from the equipment into the hot water supply system, gas supply, cold water inlet and “return” from the heating system.

The boiler used in such systems has 5 outputs (if the equipment is double-circuit, that is, for a hot water supply and heating system).

When connecting to the boiler, you must pay attention to the fact that all connections of the manifold to the heating equipment are detachable: using combination couplings and union nuts.

A ball valve is installed on each pipe. Any equipment of this type has a make-up tap for replenishing/filling the heating system from the water supply system.

To independently connect the heating system to the boiler, you need to prepare a set of simple tools.

The whole process of independently connecting the floor to the boiler comes down to the fact that it is necessary to connect the pipes with the collectors, and connect the collectors themselves with the pipes that come from the boiler. As already mentioned, before connecting the heated floor to the heated equipment, the manifold cabinet must be installed and the floor itself must be laid.

The manifold cabinet must be located in such a place that the supply and return pipes can easily enter it. It is necessary to connect the side outlets of the collector to the pipes for the “return” (return) and supply.

However, before this, shut-off valves (stopcocks) must be installed on the collectors. The shut-off valve may include a thermometer for easier temperature monitoring.

It is advisable to purchase a ready-made manifold set from a well-known manufacturer, which includes shut-off valves not only at the return and supply outlets, but also at all outlets for installing coolant pipes of the heated coating. This will make it possible to turn off 1 separate circuit of the entire system for repairs, so that the others continue to work at this time.

Pipes, taps, and manifolds are connected to each other using compression fittings. The connection of underfloor heating pipes to collectors can be made using special connectors. The connector includes a clamp ring, a support sleeve and a brass nut. When connecting different diameters, adapter fittings are used.

The simplest design option will consist of simple manifolds with shut-off valves. The return and supply are connected to pipes and shut-off valves, and the collectors and coolant pipes of the water coating are connected. This completes the installation of the heated floor system to the boiler.

Complete collector system

A complete manifold system includes, in addition to shut-off valves on the pipes, a three-way mixer (or pump-mixing unit), an air vent, a drain valve, and a circular pump to facilitate the circulation of coolant in the pipes.

Inlet and outlet shut-off valves can be replaced with thermostatic control valves. They are equipped with a thermal cylinder with paraffin, through which the throughput of the valve is set.

The pumping and mixing unit is necessary to mix the cooled coolant from the return into the supply, reducing the temperature of an overly hot liquid.

People who live in regions with cold climates definitely need a mixer, because the equipment will operate in high heating mode, and the temperature of the heated water coating coolant should be no higher than 55 degrees.

The mixing pump is installed between the supply pipe and the supply manifold. The third output of the pump goes to the return line before the return pipeline. The pump will thus take the coolant at the minimum temperature and add it to the supply.

An important point in installing heated floors is connecting the heated floor to the thermostat. Maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room with the most economical energy consumption depends on this device.

The thermostat for a water system can also be of two types: thermomechanical (based on a thermostatic head) and electronic, combined with a servo drive.

For a water system, installing a thermostat is not as necessary as for an electric one. If you don’t work on electricity yourself, there won’t be large financial losses due to unoptimized floor operation.

If desired, you can adjust the coolant supply manually, focusing on subjective sensations. But this is the case when the floor is the only source of heating, and the boiler, in accordance with the settings, heats the coolant to a temperature no higher than 50 degrees. If the system contains hot radiators or a DHW circuit, a regulator should be installed.

The simplest option for automatic adjustment is to install a thermostatic head with a remote sensor on a two-way valve. The head is filled with a heat-sensitive substance, which expands when heated and contracts when cooled, simultaneously closing/opening the coolant supply.

For a large house and an extensive heating network, it is better to purchase several thermostats with servo drives.

The connection diagram for a thermostat for a water heated floor looks like this: the servo drive is installed on the return comb of the manifold, wires are pulled from it to the thermostat with an air temperature sensor.

The electrical circuit for the drive and thermostat is located in the manifold cabinet above the combs, the cable from it goes to the distribution board.

The collector is a set of parts that allows you to control the coolant: mix and distribute liquid from parallel heating rings. The large cross-section and low speed make it possible to mix the hot coolant supplied from the boiler and the warm coolant leaving the heating pipes, which allows you to level the coolant temperature to the desired values.

In order to properly mix the return (cooled water from the circuits in the floor) and hot water to the desired temperature, various sensors are installed on the systems: a water temperature sensor, an outdoor heat sensor and a sensor that measures the pressure inside the system.

Sensors provide information to valves that mix the coolant. A heated floor manifold assembled with a pump and a special sensor can control the pressure in the system.

For a heated floor system, you can install one common collector or install an individual device in front of each heating circuit.

A mixing valve that determines the degree of heating of the coolant in the heating circuit.
Radiator balancing shut-off valve connecting the collector to the heating system. Opens and, if necessary, closes the water supply to the circuit.
Overflow valve. It is responsible for constant pressure in the pipes, for which it directs excess coolant into the bypass.

Assembly schemes can be very different. For a system with one radiator pipe, for example, a bypass is required. Moreover, it must always be open, so excess hot coolant will be discharged directly to the radiator.

If there is a return circuit, a bypass is not necessary. If the heated area is small, the collector compartment can be placed in the secondary circuit.

At the design stage, the location where the collector group will be installed should be determined. Most often, it is mounted in a special cabinet, which must be of sufficient size to accommodate all the elements. The equipment is installed at a certain height from the floor near the main pipes.

In this case, you need to place the cabinet so that there is free space for bending the pipes suitable for the manifold. It is desirable that it be placed at the same distance from all heating circuits. If desired, the cabinet can be mounted in a specially made niche or simply attached to the wall.

Assembling a complete manifold for underfloor heating is quite simple. However, before starting work, you should carefully read the instructions that the manufacturer necessarily includes in the packaging of the equipment. All operations should be performed in strict accordance with its recommendations.

We remove the tubes intended for return and supply coolant from the packaging. They should already be equipped with flow sensors and valves. If the collector is divided into several sections, twist them together.
We fix the assembled pipes on standard brackets, which will allow you to continue working with greater convenience. Now the distributor is a single unit.
We install shut-off valves, connecting elements, plugs and control devices in place.
We fix the collector to the wall. You can find recommendations that suggest first installing a valve and a circulation pump. However, in this case it will be very inconvenient to subsequently fasten the assembled unit.
We install a circulation pump and a valve with a servo drive and a thermal head in accordance with the selected scheme.
We connect the pipes coming from the heating boiler to the unit, and we connect the pipes from the heated floor circuits to the outlets.

All commissioning work should be carried out before the concrete screed is poured. This is necessary to ensure the tightness of all joints made. We configure the collector.

We check the operation of all control devices that allow you to set the desired floor heating mode, as well as adjust the coolant flows in each circuit.

Factory-made equipment is quite expensive. Therefore, some home craftsmen decide to assemble the collector themselves. True, it will not be possible to completely manufacture it; some elements, such as a mixing valve, circulation pump and shut-off valves, will still have to be purchased.

The easiest way to assemble a homemade manifold is to solder it from fittings and polypropylene pipes. To work, you will need sections of PPR pipe of the required diameter, usually 32 or 25 mm, as well as bends and tees of the same size. In addition, you need to prepare the valves.

The number of taps and fittings depends on the number of heating circuits. You will also need a special soldering iron for polypropylene parts with various nozzles, a tape measure and scissors. First, we mark the future collector. To do this, we measure and cut pipe fragments, and we do this so that the distance between the tees is minimal.

Otherwise, the part will be too bulky and unaesthetic. Then we weld transitions and taps to the tees. We attach the remaining fittings to the finished manifold, with which it will be connected to the pump.

You need to understand that a collector assembled in this way will have a number of disadvantages. First of all, there will be no thermostatic valve on the supply pipe, and there will be no flow sensors on the return pipe. This will lead to the fact that the system will need to be adjusted manually, which is not very convenient and ineffective.

Of course, all these elements can be purchased and installed on the collector. But then the cost of the product will be quite comparable to ready-made equipment made of plastic, which makes its independent production pointless.

As practice shows, the collector can be assembled with your own hands. However, it is advisable to do this only for the simplest models. It is better to buy complex devices ready-made.

One more nuance. Homemade manifolds usually have many joints. No matter how hard the master tries to perform them with the utmost quality, the specific nature of the device’s operation is such that they will definitely leak. Regular repair work, which will inevitably be carried out for a homemade collector, significantly reduces its service life.

Therefore, you should think carefully before deciding to manufacture equipment yourself.

The manifold for heated floors is one of the irreplaceable elements. Without it, a system, especially one that includes several heating circuits, will not be able to provide the required quality of heating or even simply will not be able to function.

Installation and connection of the collector group is the most crucial and difficult moment in the process of installing a heated floor system. Such work requires certain skills and special knowledge. You can do them yourself, but there is a high risk of making mistakes. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to trust qualified specialists.

Mixing fluid flows, which a thermostatic mixing valve allows, makes it possible to direct flows with a stable, standard temperature into the underfloor heating system. This operation is performed automatically. For mixing that occurs inside the device, already cooled liquid from the “return” is added to the hot water.

hot water flows to the collector included in the underfloor heating system;
during passage, the degree of heating of the liquid is determined;
if the water temperature is higher than the set one, then a passage opens into which the cooled liquid enters;
two flows are mixed inside;
after reaching the desired value, the cold water passage closes.

The mixing pump can be replaced with a three-way mixer, which performs the same function, only without a pump (used when there is good circulation that does not require an additional pump). The installation of a three-way mixer is carried out in the same place as the pumping and mixing unit, i.e. at the outlet of the return manifold.

On the one hand, the collectors are connected to pipes from heating equipment, and on the other hand, a splitter must be installed on each collector. An air vent is connected to the top side of the splitter. A drain valve is installed on the bottom side of the splitter.

Among the disadvantages of three-way valves, there is the possibility of sudden temperature jumps that occur during the start-up of heated water, which negatively affects the condition of the pipeline.

This faucet, made of brass, has three strokes in its design, which determine the use of different methods of mixing liquid flows, depending on which there are three types of three-way valves.

Valve with the thermostat function required for heated floors. Such a device not only regulates the intensity of the mixed flows, but also ensures that the system maintains a given temperature.

This function is facilitated by the presence of a heat-sensitive element, which, by detecting the degree of heating of both flows entering the tap, changes the cross-section of the holes.

The three-way thermostatic valve of the second type is distinguished by the fact that it provides regulation of the supply intensity of only the hot flow. The package includes a thermal head with a remote sensor. You can also select a mixing valve from the assortment of three-way models that does not automatically maintain the set temperature.

T-shaped or symmetrical design. With this connection, hot and cold water enters through the side holes, and after mixing, the liquid flows out through the central passage.
L-shaped or asymmetrical design. In this case, hot water comes from one side, and cold water from below. Subsequently, the mixed flow exits from the second side passage.

Check Valve;
temperature sensor;
circulation pump;
three-way mixing valve.

The connection diagram includes a circulation pump mounted on the supply. Then a temperature sensor is installed, which is necessary to determine the degree of heating of the incoming water. After this comes the thermostatic valve.

A check valve with an outlet is mounted on the “return”, which is connected to a pipe with circulating cooled liquid directed to the mixing valve.

Pumping hot water using a circulation pump into the equipped heated floor system. The coolant temperature can reach 80°C.
Mixing with cold water through a three-way valve. As a result, the desired temperature is achieved.
Distribution of coolant through underfloor heating pipes.
The return of the cooled water to the “return”, from where it is taken into the three-way valve for subsequent mixing with the hot liquid.

With such a connection, the temperature sensor regulates the degree of heating of the water entering the water circuit.

There are other ways to control. The most ineffective is the manual method, when you need to change the flow by turning the handle. There is a control option using a servo drive, commands to which are received from the controller in accordance with signals received from sensors.

The thermostatic tap plays an important role when installing a water heated floor. By preventing the coolant entering the pipes from overheating, it saves fuel. In addition, safety is ensured during the operation of a rather complex heating system and the trouble-free service life is extended.

Selection criteria

When choosing a mixing valve, it is advisable to focus on several indicators.

Room area.

For small rooms - bathroom, toilet, it is not always recommended to purchase a more expensive thermo-mixing valve, since it is enough to install a familiar valve. Large rooms with warm water floors will require mixers that automatically regulate the temperature of the heating fluid.

Cross-sectional dimensions.

This indicator must be taken into account when selecting a thermostatic valve, ensuring precise connection to the heating system. If there is no device with the required diameter in the assortment offered in the store, then special adapters are purchased.

Possibility of obtaining an automatic operating mode.

Bandwidth.

This parameter is calculated at the design stage of the heated floor. Based on the obtained values, a mixing valve is selected that can withstand the required load.

Adding water to the heating system

The mixing unit is needed exclusively for water-based floor structures, since they contain the same coolant as in heating radiators. In most cases, the heating system is organized as follows: coolant for heating, design of high-temperature radiators, the required number of circuits.

The boiler will heat the water to the temperature required for the radiators. In most cases, this is 95° C, but sometimes radiators with a temperature of 70-80° C are installed. According to sanitary standards, the floor base should not heat up more than 31° C.

If we take into account the thickness of the screed in which the floor structure tubes are laid, as well as the type of subfloor covering, the liquid in the tubes should be heated to approximately 40-55 ° C. It should be understood that liquid cannot be sent directly from the boiler to the heating system, since it the temperature is high.

To cool the liquid at the entrance to the circuit, you should use a heated floor mixing unit. It will mix the hot coolant and the cooled coolant from the return pipe of the heated floors.

As a result, the average temperature will become lower, after which the liquid will flow into the circuit. As a result, all available heating devices will work correctly: hot water will be supplied to the radiators at a temperature of 95°C, and to the heated floor circuit at a temperature of 55°C.

It is possible not to use a mixing unit if the heating in the entire apartment or private house is carried out using low-temperature circuits, while the heated liquid will heat the coolant exclusively for the heating system to the required values.

An example of such a design is an air pump. If the heat source will heat water not only for heated floors, then a mixing unit should be installed.

The operation of the structure can be described as follows: the hot coolant will reach the collector of the heating structure and rest against the safety damper with a thermostat.

If it is heated more than necessary, the damper will operate and open the supply of cold return pipe, resulting in mixing - mixing of hot and cold water. As soon as water of the required temperature is received, the damper will operate again and shut off the supply of hot coolant. You should know that the operation of this device can be organized in several ways.

The collector unit can be used not only to change the temperature of the coolant, but also to ensure circulation in the system.

Damper for protection. It will feed the heating system with hot fluid as much as necessary, as a result the inlet temperature will be controlled.
Circulation pump. This device will move fluid in the structure contour at a specific speed. As a result, the heating of the entire area of the structure will be the same.
Water supply in the mixing unit.

The mixing unit for a heated floor may consist of the following elements: shut-off dampers and elements for air exhaust.

The mixing unit is always mounted before the system circuit, but the location of its installation may be different. For example, it can be placed in a room with a heated floor, in a room on the separation of collector structures that go to circuits with low and high temperatures.

If there are several rooms with heated floors, then mixing units will need to be installed in each room or in a cabinet located next to the collector.

Various dampers can be installed in the design for protection. In most cases, three-way and two-way valves are used.
In some cases, such an element is called a feeder.

This element contains a thermostat head with a liquid sensor, which will continuously monitor the temperature of the heated liquid. The head changes the position of the damper, as a result of which the supply of heated media that comes from the heating boiler is added or cut off.

As a result, the coolants are mixed as follows: liquid from the return pipe is supplied continuously, and hot liquid is supplied only when necessary. In this case, the flow will be controlled by a damper.

As a result, the system will not overheat, thereby increasing its service life. The two-way valve has a small capacity, and therefore the temperature of the liquid will be controlled slowly, without changes.

Professionals recommend installing a two-way valve in a heated floor system. However, you should be aware that there is a limitation in this case. It is advisable to install devices only if you plan to heat an area of more than 200 m².

If you decide to install a heated floor, you will need a device such as a thermostat. It is necessary for temperature control and timely switching on and off of the system. Connecting a heated floor to a thermostat is mandatory when installing electrical and infrared structures. If the floor is water, then the presented element does not need to be used. However, it is better to do this, since the thermostat will help you set a comfortable temperature.

If you want to properly connect an electric floor to the network, it is necessary not only to install it correctly, but also correctly. There are several types of devices:

Simple. They allow you to set only one parameter - temperature. Moreover, this is done mechanically.
Complex. They work thanks to programmable control. All necessary parameters are reflected on the electronic display.

As for the installation method, in this case we can distinguish the following thermostats:

Wall-mounted, recessed into the wall.
Invoices.

Design and purpose of the sensor

If you decide to install electric floors, you just need to connect a sensor to them that will measure the temperature of the floor heating. It consists of 2 wires, which are fixed together with a thermocouple. This element is capable of changing resistance depending on the temperature to which the film is heated.

Sensors can show the temperature of the heated floor or room air.

Connecting the sensor and heated floor cable to the electrical network (click to enlarge)

In the second case, the sensor may be located directly in the thermostat housing. However, please note that before choosing the presented element, be sure to take into account the presence of additional heating means in the room. If there are batteries in the room, then it is better to give preference to the sensor that measures the temperature of the heated floor. In this case, its indicators will be as accurate as possible.

Some features of laying IR film

It's not just the regulator that needs to be connected correctly. She herself is important. It has certain features:

You should not cover heating elements with baseboards, furniture or any decorative materials.
It is best to position the panels along the length of the room. Thanks to this arrangement, you can significantly reduce the number of points to which the film will be connected.

Heating elements should not be placed too close to power lines. The minimum distance between them is usually about 5 cm.
If there are other heating devices in the room, they are located at a distance of at least 20 cm from the infrared heating elements.

Features of connecting an electrical floor heating system

So, if you have already decided on the type of heating and installed the system, you can start connecting it. In this case, connecting the heated floor to the thermostat is as follows:

Features of connecting a water heated floor

As you can see, electrical floor systems can be connected quite easily. But what about water heating? Connecting a heated floor to a thermostat in this case is also justified, although not necessary. The device controls a servo drive, which determines the flow of coolant in the pipeline. This means you have an additional opportunity to save.

So, the work of connecting the thermostat consists of the following actions:

When installing a warm water floor, you need to take into account the height of the sensor above the floor. It should be about 1 meter. Remember, to adequately reflect temperature indicators, it is necessary to place the sensor away from any other heaters or batteries.
Connect the regulator and sensor with wires.

Temperature control diagram in a water underfloor heating system

Next, a regular room thermometer should be attached next to the sensor.
Set the required heating temperature on the thermostat. The system should maintain the specified parameters for a couple of hours.

If you did everything correctly, the device will regulate the heating operation without failures or problems. Connecting the thermostat yourself must be done very carefully and carefully. If the connection is incorrect, the floor heating system will not work properly and may quickly fail. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to turn to specialists. Leave your opinions, suggestions, additions to the article in the comments!

Laying and connecting a heated floor is not a complicated process if we are dealing with its electrical varieties.
Unlike water floors, which are rather cumbersome to install, electric models are suitable for any room. There are practically no restrictions on their use. The arrangement of the system consists in the correct location of the heating elements. Then follows the connection of the heated floor to the thermostat and to the source of electricity. Features of the installation scheme depend on the type of heating element and the configuration of the room.

Types of electric floors

Electric floors have a common power source, but differ in the design of the heating elements. To find out how to properly connect a heated floor, you need to clarify what type of floor you plan to install.

The following can act as a heating base:

resistive heating cable (single- or two-core);
self-regulating cable;
thermal mats (thin conductor laid on a mesh);
heating film (carbon or bimetallic);
carbon rods.

There is a different connection diagram for an electric heated floor for each of the above options.

When installing a cable floor, it is necessary to correctly calculate the laying step to avoid excessive heat generation or uneven heating of the surface.

Heating mats and film are purchased based on the manufacturer’s recommendations, which are usually indicated on the packaging.

Connecting the thermostat

Before connecting a heated floor (any of its electric varieties), you need to determine the location of the thermostat.
This device is designed to control the system and maintain the required temperature in the room. In addition, heating elements are connected to the network via a thermostat. The range of thermostats is quite wide - from simple mechanical devices to smart devices.

Thermostats with a built-in sensor that records the air temperature in the room should be installed at a height of at least one and a half meters from the floor surface and in places where they will be protected from heat sources (for example, direct sunlight).

Before connecting the heated floor thermostat, you should decide which of the two existing methods you will perform this operation. You can make a permanent connection from the electrical panel or use an existing outlet.

Most models of thermostats are equipped with a diagram, which is usually depicted on the body. This greatly simplifies the procedure and allows you to carry it out yourself, without the help of a professional electrician.

After the thermostat is installed, we connect the phase, as well as ground and zero, to the distribution box. We cut a groove in the wall to accommodate two plastic tubes. One of them is designed to accommodate the power wires of the heating cable, the other is for wiring the internal sensor, which will be located under the floor covering. When all these measures have been completed, you can begin installing and connecting the electric heated floor.

Connecting the cable floor

First, we level the surface, then attach damper tape along the wall and lay thermal insulation. The cable can also be installed on the subfloor, provided that there is a heated room below. Before laying the cable, we stretch the power wires to the thermostat box (the coupling will eventually have to be located in the body of the concrete screed).

Next, the installation and connection of the heated floor is done according to the following scheme: we place a mounting tape on the surface of the subfloor or thermal insulation. It is needed to secure the cable. The most convenient installation method is considered to be the so-called. snake.

Important: when laying the cable lines must not intersect!

Fastenings on the mounting tape will help position the conductor evenly. After the cable is laid out, we install the sensor by placing it in the plastic tube described above. The final stage of installation is checking the quality of its implementation: using a tester, we make sure that the cable resistance corresponds to the rated value. Now everything is ready to pour the screed.

Before connecting the electric heated floor, you need to make sure that the screed has hardened. When the cement-sand mortar becomes hard enough, we connect the power wires from the heating sections and the sensor, as well as the electrical wiring that powers the entire system to the thermostat using screw clamps.
This stage is the most difficult, so it will be best if it is carried out by a professional.

Connecting thermal mats

It is not difficult to understand how a heated floor made of heating mats is connected. The principle of operation in this case is the same as when installing a cable system. Therefore, it makes sense to talk only about the existing differences.

A thermal mat is a thin heating cable attached to a heat-resistant film. Since the installation step is predetermined, all that remains is to determine the area on which the system will be located and its specific power.

Before connecting the heated floor, the film with cable is placed directly on the rough concrete surface, filled with a thin layer of screed or tile adhesive and covered with the material chosen for finishing. The use of thermal insulation in this case is unacceptable, as it leads to overheating of the system.

The thickness of the finished structure is only one and a half centimeters, so to place the sensor you have to make a recess in the floor surface.

If the so-called connection is not enough to connect the heated floor to the thermostat. cold ends, then a part of the cable is cut out of the mat. The coupling is located inside the screed.

Since a heat mat is a type of heating cable, the installation of both systems is very similar. The difference is that with heating mats this work is done easier and faster. The lack of thermal insulation and a thin layer of screed makes it profitable to connect a heated floor; its price will be lower due to savings on materials and the amount of work. Another advantage is the ability to install the system in rooms that have restrictions on raising the floor height.

Connecting a film floor

One of the relatively new varieties of heated floors are models made from heating film. To understand how to connect a warm film floor, you need to understand the features of its device. The system consists of heating elements (carbon or bimetallic) sealed in a thin layer of heat-resistant material. Copper conductors run along the edges of the heating film and are connected to the network.

The film heated floor is connected according to the same scheme as the installation of thermal mats. The difference lies in the use of a special substrate, which is laid out over the entire insulated surface. For the substrate, a material coated with foil film is used. It has the ability to reflect infrared radiation and direct it into a heated room.

To install the sensors, a plastic tube is used, which is placed in a recess made in the floor. It is also possible to attach the device to the surface of the film.

The film, unlike mats, can be cut entirely. This is done according to the lines specified by the manufacturer. They pass along the surface at intervals of 20–30 centimeters. The conductive strips are insulated only on one edge, and the other remains open, since this is where the connection to the power wires will be made.

The film sheets are laid out and connected to each other in a parallel manner. At the end, one wire of the pair is connected to the adjacent sheet, and through the other, the infrared heated floor is connected to the thermostat.

The versatility of film heated floors is that it is compatible with almost any coating. Laminate flooring is a particularly good choice. Carpet is the worst choice due to the high probability of damage to the film when pressure is applied to the floor surface.

What is a heating mat and how is it different from a heating cable? Essentially, this is the same cable that is laid out on a nylon mesh. The mesh has a sticky base that is glued to a pre-prepared base.

The main criterion for choosing a mat rather than a heating cable as a heated floor is the condition of pouring the screed. That is, the level of raising the floor above the heating element.

If your conditions allow it to be raised by 10-15mm, then you can successfully install a heating cable. If the level of floor elevation is minimal, literally a few millimeters, then your choice should only look towards the mat.

Moreover, if you choose it with a single-core cable, then the thickness of the entire heating surface can generally be no more than 2.5 mm.

Here a lot will depend on which manufacturer you choose - Devi, Electrolux, Ensto, Rehau or some others.

You can get acquainted with the current prices for various brands of heated floors and their components.

Preparatory work

But before installation and connection, it is necessary to carry out preparatory construction work. First, groove the walls to lay the power cable from the panel to the distribution box in which the thermostat will be mounted.

If a heated floor is installed in a bathroom or toilet, according to the rules, the thermostat should be located in an adjacent room where there is no moisture or dampness. The installation height of the regulator is not lower than 30cm from the floor level.

After that, groove the wall down from the electrical box, and drill a through hole into the bathroom. The cold end and a temperature sensor for connection to the thermostat will be placed through it.

Keep in mind that if you have made the sand screed very recently, it will need to be allowed to sit and set for 72 hours.

Only after 3 days can you begin installing the heating mat.

Using markers (chalk, pencil, colored tape) mark the areas where the heating mat will not be installed. Such areas include places where the bathtub, toilet, various cabinets, washing machine, etc. will be located.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the distances from the walls (minimum 5cm) and heating pipes or radiators (20cm). There will also be no heated floor in these places.

Before direct installation, determine the serviceability and integrity of all elements and the heating cable. To do this, you need to measure its resistance using a multimeter.
Look at the Ohm ratings on the packaging or label. It is usually attached to the cold end.

The measured resistance should match, or at least not differ much (up to 10%), from the data indicated there.

However, remember that with the tester, you are actually checking the integrity of the heating core, but not the insulation resistance. Most electricians consider this to be the most important parameter, on the basis of which they can give a confident guarantee of the performance of heated floors.

It often happens that the multimeter shows “everything is fine”, but for some reason the automatic switch in the control panel is knocked out. This indicates poor insulation and the presence of leakage current. To measure insulation resistance, you must use a megger with a voltage of at least 500 Volts.

The insulation is connected between the 220V working conductors and the grounding conductor (if there is one) or shielding braid. The readings for a new cable, as electricians say, should “tend to infinity” or be the maximum possible for the measuring device.

Laying the heating mat mesh

It is necessary to begin the installation of the grid from the point where the cable exits to the thermostat box. Unroll the roll and lay it out on the surface. In this case, it is necessary to bypass the areas previously marked with marker tape.

During installation, you can walk on the heated floor (via wires) if you have shoes with soft soles. Some even press the mesh to the base of the screed in this way, but you shouldn’t overdo it.

When unwinding the roll, it is advisable to hide the end section of the cable inside so that during installation it does not twist or touch foreign objects.

In the place where it is necessary to rotate the heating element, a section is cut.

However, do not try to cut the heating cable itself.

It is enough to free it from the net. Glue the tail that turns out when turning to the floor with aluminum tape. In addition to fastening, it also helps distribute heat over this area of the surface.

If you have a sectional resistive mat, where there are independent sections connected from the power cable running along the edges, then when turning, you can cut one of the outer wires.

But not the heating element! Don't even think about cutting it.

After installation, it is necessary to connect these cut strands. To do this, you will need a copper installation wire PuGV with a cross-section of 1.5 mm2.

Measure the required length and trim the ends. After which, you thread heat shrink through them. The PuGV core and the outermost supply core of the mat are connected to each other using a pressed GSI sleeve.

Select the sleeve according to the cross-section of the wires.

Next, move the heat shrink to the crimping area and heat it, reliably insulating this area.

After which, do the same with the second end.

In this way, single-core power wires on mats are connected to independent sections.

Excess or lack of mat length

If you do not have enough grid centimeters to reach the end of the mark, then you can proceed as follows. On most mats, it is painless for them to cut the base mesh and, by sliding it apart through one loop, increase the total length of all sections.

And if there is excess left, is it possible to cut off the unnecessary piece?

This cannot be done, as you will thereby violate the running capacity of the heated floor per square meter.

As a result, the temperature on the elements will be higher than the calculated one and the mat will overheat. Which will ultimately lead to its failure.

What to do if there is a surplus? The simplest option is to place extra centimeters of mesh in those areas where it was not originally planned to lay them (for example, under cabinets).

The second option is to partially or completely remove the cable from the base of the mesh and reposition it yourself with a smaller pitch than the factory one. Or make additional bends in several places.

Connecting the cable to the thermostat

After laying all sections, the supply conductors at the very end of the mat should be plugged and insulated. It all depends on your cable.

For example, if you have a two-core one, which at the beginning has one cold end and an end coupling, then the conductors in it are connected to each other at the very end.

And if there is a single-core heating mat that has two cold ends on each side, then both of these ends must be brought in and connected to the thermostat.

The third option is independent sections connected from power wires laid along the edges of the mesh. Here you need to insulate each end separately with a thermotube, without connecting them to each other.

Next, proceed to connecting the cold end of the heating mat to the thermostat. To do this, take a copper power cable KGVVng. Measure and lay it in the next room to the place where the thermostat is installed.

Then connect it to the power wires. To do this, strip the wires, put on heat shrink and connect the ends using a connecting sleeve.

After crimping, slide the heat shrink and heat it with a hair dryer.

It is recommended that the cold end connection sleeve be placed in close proximity to the end coupling. That is, the place where the heating cable ends.

If any problems arise, and they most often occur at the joints, you will only need to open one tile and will not have to dismantle a couple of square meters at different ends of the room.

The service life of the heating cable itself is more than 50 years, so all accidents and problems arise precisely at these sleeve connection points.

The other side of the cable, which comes out of the installation box, is stripped, and the stranded cores are crimped with NShVI lugs. At the same time, in order not to confuse the wires, it is better to mark them.

phase conductor - Ltp

zero core (blue) - Ntp

Temperature sensor installation

Lay and secure a corrugated pipe in the groove from the box to the heating mat section. Select the diameter according to the size of the sensor.

The bending radius of the tube near the wall must be at least 5cm.

Pass the temperature sensor itself with wires through it. In this case, certain distances must be maintained:

The pitch between the turns in the mats is maintained within strictly specified parameters (most often 7.5-8 cm). Due to this spread, the so-called “thermal zebra” under the tile is compensated.

That is, the heat is completely and evenly distributed over the surface of the tile, and with your bare feet you will never feel temperature dips between the cable lines and the empty space where there is none.

The cores from the temperature sensor are also stripped and crimped with tips. For the convenience of their further connection, mark them - DT.

To prevent the mortar from going into the corrugated tube, a plug is installed at its end. If it is not included in the kit, you can get by with electrical tape.

Sometimes a special brass tip is included. Many people have no idea what it is for. And it is precisely intended for installing the sensor head inside it.

After completing all the above work, be sure to measure the resistance again. What if you broke or shorted something during the installation process?

Connecting the thermostat

It is necessary to connect a heated floor only through an RCD or a differential circuit breaker with a leakage current of no more than 30 mA.

Lay a copper power cable - VVGnG-Ls - in the groove from the panel to the thermostat. The cross-section must correspond to the power of the underfloor heating elements. In most cases, a cross-section of 1.5 mm2 for power up to 2 kW will be more than enough.

Connect the phase conductor (usually gray, brown or red) to the terminal on the machine marked 2. The neutral conductor is connected to the right terminal N.

Now all these wires need to be connected to the thermostat connectors. Which one goes where?

First start the power supply. The phase and neutral conductors L and N are connected to screw terminals with the same markings.

The phase conductor of the heated floor Ltp is plugged into connector L1, and its neutral conductor Ntp is plugged into connector N1.