Potato development. Potatoes: soil, light, moisture and fertilizers Flowering and seed production phase of potatoes

What conditions are needed for growing potatoes?

Everything about growing potatoes

Potato- a relatively cool summer plant. The following temperatures are most favorable for the development of potatoes at different stages: for germination of eyes - +5-7°C. Full growth of the above-ground mass is possible only with sufficient development of roots, which are formed, as a rule, at a temperature not lower than +7°C. At lower temperatures, planted tubers lie in the soil for a long time without forming a root system. At the same time, due to the available nutrients, new tubers can form on them without the appearance of tops. This phenomenon is often observed when planting potatoes in cold, waterlogged soil with a temperature below +7°C or, conversely, in too dry soil at a temperature above +25°C.

Shoots potatoes They develop better in cool, damp weather. During this period, young plants are sensitive to heat and dry winds. The most favorable temperature for tops growth is +15-20°C. The maximum growth of tops occurs at a temperature of +17-22°C. A decrease in temperature to +1-1.5°C and high relative air humidity lead to the death of plants.

The most intense tuberization occurs when the soil warms up to +15-19°C. For tuber growth early varieties favorable temperature is +15-17°C, for mid-season and mid-late varieties +19°C. At soil temperatures below +6 and above +23-25°C, tuber growth is delayed, and at +29-30°C tuberization usually stops. In this case, watering is necessary.

Watering potatoes

Potatoes are very demanding of moisture. At the beginning of emergence and during the first period of tops formation, the need for moisture is small; the plant tolerates dry weather well. With the onset of budding and flowering, the need for moisture increases sharply. Its lack during this period leads to wilting of the leaves, which reduces the yield. At the end of the plant growing season, when the tops wither, potatoes require significantly less moisture than in previous periods.

In warm, dry weather, by the end of the growing season, a strong, thick skin forms on the tubers, which protects them from mechanical damage during harvesting and ensures better preservation in the winter. Rainy weather delays the ripening of tubers, and very delicate skins form on them. Such tubers are easily damaged during harvesting and are poorly stored.

Overmoistening of the soil in some years leads to rotting of tubers due to lack of oxygen. To have a sufficient amount of oxygen in the soil, it is necessary to loosen it.

Potatoes are photophilous. In the shade, with a lack of light, the stems stretch, the tops turn yellow, the yield of tubers decreases, and their taste deteriorates.

To obtain high yields, it is necessary to correctly position the rows in relation to the light. When the rows are directed from north to south, the plants are illuminated more evenly throughout the day than when they are directed from west to east.

Fertilizers for potatoes

For the growth and development of potatoes, the presence of mineral substances in the soil is necessary: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, as well as microelements: boron, molybdenum, cobalt, etc. On most soils, potatoes have a maximum need for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. With insufficient nitrogen nutrition, weak growth and branching of plant stems are observed. With an excess of nitrogen in the soil, excessive development of plant tops occurs, to the detriment of tubers, ripening is delayed, and the susceptibility of tubers to diseases increases.

Consequently, both excess nitrogen and its deficiency in the soil are harmful to the plant.

How to choose a place in the garden to grow potatoes?

Potatoes can grow in any soil, but higher yields are obtained in deep, loose and well-fertilized soil. Soddy-podzolic, loamy and sandy loam soils with a slightly acidic reaction of the soil solution (pH 5.5-6.5) are well suited.

If the area for planting potatoes is located in low-lying areas with heavy clay soils, where water stagnates and does not dry out for a long time in the spring and warms up slowly, then such soils can be used only after they have been cultivated - adding manure, sand, peat, ash, etc.

For early potatoes, the most suitable plots of land are on southern or southwestern slopes, protected from the north and northeast by forests or buildings.

Potatoes should not be planted in places where they were grown in previous years. The causative agents of many diseases and pests can overwinter in the soil on plant debris or remaining tubers, so when planted in an old place, tubers of a new crop can be severely affected by these diseases and pests.

Where should you not plant potatoes?

You cannot plant potatoes where tomatoes, peppers, or eggplants grew, since they are similar in origin and have common diseases. They try to place potatoes on the plot after cabbage, beets, cucumbers, lettuce, spinach, and carrots. If conditions do not allow you to annually change the area for planting potatoes, then in this case you can to some extent eliminate the negative impact of permanent planting. To do this, it is necessary to fertilize the area well, add peat, manure, compost, sow green manure and change planting material more often. In dry weather, water the plants regularly. If you are developing a new area, then with proper processing and care of the plants you can get a high yield of potatoes even without applying fertilizers, because virgin lands are better for potatoes. It is only important that the area is well drained and the depth of groundwater is no higher than 40-60 cm from the soil surface. If the humus layer is small, then it is advisable to add peat and turf soil to increase the moisture capacity and fertility of the soil.

In damp areas, drainage grooves are installed to drain excess water, which displaces air from the soil, as a result of which the roots and potato tubers flooded with water suffocate and rot.

What soil is best for growing potatoes?

Potatoes place high demands on soil looseness and breathability. It is best to dig up the soil in the area for planting potatoes in the fall, leaving it in layers for the winter, without leveling it with a harrow or rake. Also, in the fall, it would be good to dig drainage ditches to drain excess autumn rain and spring melt water from the site.

On heavy loamy soils in the fall it is useful to make ridges. This ensures that the soil dries out earlier in the spring. In addition, this contributes to better snow retention and the destruction of weed seeds and pest larvae by frost.

In the spring, the area is leveled with a rake or harrow, and then dug up or plowed again, but smaller (2-5 cm) than during autumn tillage, so as not to turn weed seeds to the surface of the soil. All work on the spring preparation of soil for potatoes should be carried out in a timely manner and of high quality. It is especially necessary to ensure that the soil has normal moisture, crumbles well, and is not smeared, since when processing waterlogged soil, unloosened layers are formed, while dry soil forms lumps. In blocky soil, tubers become deformed and lose their marketable quality.

Pre-planting treatment of arable peat soils usually comes down to shallow loosening and harrowing, leveling the surface, and destroying weed seedlings before planting potatoes.

The great need of potatoes for nutrients necessitates the application of increased doses of fertilizers to this crop.

Organic fertilizers for potatoes

The main source of replenishment of nutrients for potatoes are various types of organic fertilizers, and primarily manure, peat manure and other composts.

The best organic fertilizer for potatoes is manure, especially peat manure obtained by using peat as bedding for livestock. The average dose of manure for potatoes, as well as other organic fertilizers, is 5-10 kg per 1 m2 of plot area.

On loamy soils, organic fertilizers are applied in the fall. In spring, only rotted manure can be given. On light sandy and sandy loam soils, organic fertilizers are applied mainly in the spring.

The fertilizer is spread evenly over the surface of the soil and then dug up or plowed with a plow. It is impossible to leave manure or composts on the soil surface for a long time, as they quickly dry out and lose their value.

If there is not enough organic fertilizer, it is better to apply it into the furrow or hole during planting. This makes it possible to reduce the dose of fertilizers by two to three times and get an increase in tuber yield no less than from scattered application of large doses. When applied locally, fertilizer nutrients are less susceptible to absorption by the soil and are more used by the plant, since they are located in the zone of development of the bulk of the roots.

To cultivate garden plots, you can also use clean, well-ventilated and decomposed peat. However, its nutritional value for plants is several times less than that of peat composts, mixtures of peat with slurry. Mixtures of peat with bird droppings are applied under potatoes mainly in the fall.

Sludge can be used in its pure form as a fertilizer, but in this case it must be ventilated during the summer to reduce the content of harmful nitrogen compounds. An effective organic fertilizer is sapropel, which accumulates in large quantities in water bodies.

Chicken manure is also a very valuable organic fertilizer. The rate of application of fresh raw manure should not exceed 20-40 kg per 10 m2.

A significant additional source of organic fertilizers can be green manure crops, the green mass of which is used for fertilizer. Among them are oilseed radish, spring rape, white mustard, and Sarepta mustard. All of them belong to the cabbage family, have a short growing season, and tolerate autumn frosts well. They are cultivated in areas after early harvested crops (early potatoes, greens, radishes, etc.), the seeds are sown to a depth of 2-3 cm. The seed sowing rate is 200-300 g per hundred square meters. These crops are plowed into the soil in late autumn. It has been established that green fertilizers help to increase the starchiness of tubers and reduce morbidity.

Manure and composts contain all the nutrients needed by plants. However, organic fertilizers decompose slowly, and applied before and during planting, they do not immediately become available to the plant. During the initial period of potato growth and development, these fertilizers are used poorly. To provide plants with a sufficient amount of nutrients in the earliest period of life, in addition to organic fertilizers, mineral fertilizers are added, which contain nutrients in an easily digestible form.

Do you need mineral fertilizers to grow potatoes?

The effect of mineral fertilizers on the growth and development of potatoes on different soils is not the same. On sandy and sandy loam soils with low humus content, higher increases in tuber yield are obtained from the use of nitrogen and potassium fertilizers. On chernozems and gray forest soils, productivity especially increases when nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers are used. Plants develop especially well when full mineral fertilizer is applied, which provides potatoes not only with nitrogen, but also with phosphorus and potassium. When organic and mineral fertilizers are applied together, the correct ratio of nutrients is established in the soil, ensuring an uninterrupted supply of nutrients to potatoes throughout the entire growing season.

You should know that both a lack of nutrients and their excess are equally harmful to potatoes. If there is an excess of nitrogen, the potatoes go into the tops without forming tubers.

Complete mineral fertilizer is usually used in the spring for digging or plowing the area in the form of superphosphate, potassium chloride and ammonium nitrate, 30 g of each per 1 m2. Complex fertilizers (nitrophoska), containing all three types of nutrients, are applied at the rate of 60-90 g per 1 square meter. meter.

Currently, the most accessible mineral fertilizers for the population are ammonium nitrate (1-2 kg per 100 m2), urea (urea) (1-1.5 kg per 100 m2, double superphosphate (5-10 kg per 100 m 2), potassium chloride (2-4 kg per 100 m2), nitroammophoska (3-4 kg per 100 m2) and a number of others.

To effectively use fertilizers, it is necessary to take into account the specific conditions of potato cultivation (fertility, soil texture, moisture supply, etc.) and adjust the doses in accordance with them.

If there is insufficient application of fertilizers before planting and during planting, they are added to the fertilizer. Fertilizing with nitrogen should be carried out as early as possible, when the plant height is 10-12 cm. Application of nitrogen at a later date leads to unripe tubers and a decrease in their quality.

Fertilizing with potassium fertilizers can be carried out at a later date. Phosphorus fertilizers are less effective in fertilizing. Before precipitation falls, fertilizing potatoes with mineral fertilizers and ash has a good effect.

I planted potatoes as seedlings, now I’m thinking - when should I plant them at the dacha? You can protect from frost, and covering such a quantity is not a problem.

I know about planting potatoes - when the birch tree is covered with a “green haze”. What other signs? I found a hint on the temperature on the Internet.

The requirements of the potato plant to environmental conditions at different periods of life are not the same. In addition, different plant organs exhibit different reactions to the same factor. For example, a temperature of 12 degrees significantly inhibits plant growth, but it has a beneficial effect on tuber formation.

Potato plants develop better in cool summer conditions. The buds of the eyes awaken at 3-6 degrees. Tubers begin to germinate intensively at soil temperatures of 7-12 degrees, but this process occurs faster at 20 degrees. Potato roots form at temperatures not lower than 7 degrees, so you can start planting them only when the soil at a depth of 10-14 centimeters warms up to 7-8 degrees.

For mass emergence of seedlings, the optimal air temperature is within 15-25 degrees. At very low and very high temperatures, germination rates slow down.

At a temperature of 3-5 degrees, in some potato varieties, growth is so weakened that the buds on the tubers begin to develop without the formation of a root system.

At temperatures below 3-5 and above 31 - 35 degrees, their growth and development are suspended, and the presence of potato tubers for several days at a soil temperature of 1 - 1.5 degrees or 35-40 degrees usually leads to severe damage to the buds and tubers, from which it is already difficult to obtain normal, well-developing plants.

Potato seedlings require cool, moist weather to develop. At this time, tender young plants are equally sensitive to both cold and heat and dry winds.

Potato tops begin to grow at an air temperature of about 5-6 degrees, and their maximum growth occurs in moderately moist soil and 17-22 degrees. At temperatures above 42-45 degrees, tops growth stops, and at 50 degrees the plant withers and may die.

The tops are also sensitive to low temperatures. When there is frost minus 1 - 1.5 degrees, the plants turn black and die. Therefore, when growing early potatoes, the choice of site is of great importance. Thus, in low areas, where cold air stagnates in the morning, seedlings are more often damaged by frost than in higher areas.

The most favorable temperature for potato flowering is 18-21 degrees. Hotter weather causes the flowers and buds to drop. Typically, at a temperature of 27-29 degrees, flowering stops.

The flowers themselves have no economic significance. The presence or absence of flowers on potato plants does not affect its yield. Therefore, there is no point in doing a lot of manual work to remove flowers, which is practiced by some potato growers. (This was confirmed by the experiments of Oleg Telepov, a famous potato grower)

For most potato varieties, the most favorable soil temperature for tuber formation is 15-19 degrees, which corresponds to an air temperature of 21-25 degrees. At soil temperatures below 6 and above 23 degrees, tuber growth decreases sharply, and at 26-29 degrees it stops.

High temperatures combined with long daylight hours cause the transformation of stolons into above-ground shoots and the growth of tubers. On the other hand, heat and drought promote the formation of a large number of stolons and their branching, resulting in an increase in the number of small tubers.

If during the period of formation and growth of tubers there is prolonged hot weather (30-40°C), this causes “ecological” degeneration of potatoes. It consists of metabolic disorders and a sharp decrease in the yield and seed qualities of tubers.

During hot and dry periods, the growth of young tubers stops; apical eyes sprout on them, which form sprouts and secondary tubers at soil temperatures above 20-30 degrees. At temperatures above 29 degrees, such sprouts develop into above-ground stems, and then form their own root system and above-ground mass. This overgrowth of tubers significantly reduces the yield and its quality.

The key factor for high potato yields is systematic watering during the growing season. It is important to keep the soil evenly moist from germination until the end of the season. Do not allow it to dry out completely, which can lead to unintended regrowth when watered and the formation of growths on the tubers. Let's consider what temperature potatoes can withstand and the subtleties of mulching.

The culture prefers cool but frost-free conditions. The ideal temperature for growing the product, depending on the stages of the growing season, is the same as in spring: 8-25° C.

The origin of a crop from mountainous regions with cool climates has implications for the agrometeorological responses of the crop. Climatic features, physiological environment extremely important for producing high yields with good quality tubers, under conditions characteristic of each specific site.

It's no secret that the right climate provides a large number of tubers from the bush

Potatoes have a fibrous root system, no more than 60 cm deep at best. As a result, the plant often cannot make full use of the nutrients and moisture within the soil profile.

What temperature above zero can potatoes withstand?

It is best to plant when the soil temperature is 7-10°C, daytime is in the range of 18°C, night - 12-18°C. Optimal soil condition for root growth- from 10 to 35 ° C, the most active development occurs at 15 -20 ° C. Conditions are similar for the development of stolons.

For tops growth- from 7 to 30 ° C, the best regime is from 20 to 25 ° C. The appearance of tubers is caused by a short photoperiod and includes growth hormones. The cooler the soil temperature, between 15 and 20°C, the faster the tubers will form and in greater numbers.

The process is favored by low levels of nitrogen and high levels of sucrose in the plant. High temperatures (35-40° C) reduce and actually stop the formation of tubers. Also, long day lengths delay the onset of tuber development.

Too high temperatures have a detrimental effect on crop growth

At 9°C there is a slight elongation of seedlings, very slow at 6°C.
At temperatures below 6 °C, development practically stops.
Leaving tubers in soil at 1-2°C for several days causes severe damage that affects normal plant growth.

Potato prefers well-drained fertile soil with a high content of organic matter, with an acidity level of 5.0 to 5.5. As the soil becomes more alkaline, the size of the crop increases, but so does the incidence of scab, a condition that affects the skin but not the nutritional value of the product.

Temperatures from 12 to 18 ° C are considered best for harvesting and processing tubers. Under cold and heat stress, when below 5 ° C and above 25 ° C, they are susceptible to diseases and the risk of microbial rot.

What is the storage temperature

The storage area for potatoes must meet temperature conditions so that the product remains healthy and the natural process of decomposition is slowed down.

It is extremely important that it is dark, well ventilated, and for long-term storage of the seed variety, a temperature of about 4 ° C is maintained.

For short-term storage, followed by cooking, an environment of 7-10 °C is preferred.

Storing for a long time at temperatures below 4 ° C converts potato starch into sugar, which changes the taste and cooking qualities. It acquires a bitter taste and the cause of this phenomenon is an enzyme called invertase.

Once starch is converted to sugar, it causes a potentially dangerous chemical reaction when cooked. Sugars when baked or fried combine with the amino acid asparagine present in the tubers to produce the chemical acrylamide. representing a genotoxic carcinogen.

In an adequate environment in commercial warehouses, potatoes will last for ten to twelve months. At home the period is only a few weeks. If tubers develop green areas containing glycoalkaloids, they must be trimmed off before using the product.

Green spots on tubers should not be eaten

How to properly store in a vegetable store, cellar, refrigerator

Optimal conditions of temperature, humidity, aeration, and degree of oxidation are the most important factors for storing potatoes. Being a living organism, its quality decreases due to moisture loss and physiological decay. Deterioration is directly related to storage temperature.

Vegetable store

Before being placed in storage, the tubers must be cured at a temperature of 7-15° C and a relative humidity of 85-95% for two weeks. The curing process thickens the skin and heals minor cuts, minimizing the entry of pathogens.

The fewer open wounds on the tuber, the lower the risk of infection during storage. Soft, wrinkled, damaged by insects, slugs, wireworms, and other pests, the tubers are sorted.

Most pathogens transported into storage with tubers increase their population growth logarithmically at 5-26°C.

Store potatoes in a dark place at 4-8°C and humidity 80-90%. Although it loses moisture through respiration, low humidity is the main cause of shrinkage during storage. In good conditions, the product can be stored for up to six months.
At temperatures exceeding 8°C, tubers germinate in two to three months.
When stored at temperature below 4°C the potatoes acquire a sweetish taste. But normal taste can be restored by leaving it at room temperature for a few days before use.

Potatoes should not be allowed to freeze.

Cellar

Most modern homes have several places with good conditions for storing vegetables. The ideal place is a cellar in which the tubers are piled. It is better to store in several small piles.

In potatoes that are stacked, the bottom layer is often damaged due to the weight of the top layers being pressed down. In addition, ventilation does not reach the center and the product becomes very hot, which reduces quality and shortens shelf life.

Storing potatoes in a cellar is a classic option for storing crops

Can Place the tubers in small plastic buckets, which are covered with a layer of wet sand, boxes or baskets. Paper or perforated bags work well. The use of racks on which containers with tubers are stacked ensures good air circulation.

Every effort should be made to ensure that the storage environment for potatoes is cool, dry, and with adequate humidity. This is due to the prevention of moisture loss, the development of rot, excessive growth of sprouts, and the accumulation of highly concentrated sugars in potatoes.

Fridge

Storage in the refrigerator compartment(usually at 2 -5° C) undesirable. Cold temperatures promote the conversion of starch to sugar, resulting in a sweet taste and discoloration when cooked. Warming the potatoes at room temperature for some time before cooking will reduce this effect.

Perforated plastic or paper bags in which the potatoes are placed provide a medium for extending shelf life in the refrigerator.

Potatoes are not washed before storage. A thin layer of soil protects the crop. Tubers are not stored near apples and other fruits, which emit ethylene gas, promoting germination.

Losses are mainly caused by processes such as respiration, changes in the chemical composition and physical properties of tubers, and damage at extreme temperatures. All mentioned losses depend on storage conditions.

Air circulation, atmospheric composition, relative importance (85-95%) are well controlled in the vegetable store, which is pre-treated with germination inhibitors and equipped with mechanical ventilation.

What sub-zero temperatures can the crop withstand and at what temperatures does it freeze?

Direct frost damage occurs when ice crystals form within the protoplasm of plant cells (intracellular freezing). The extent of the damage depends mainly on how quickly the temperature drops. At a slower rate, ice formation is extracellular and the plant has a chance to recover.

The saturated vapor pressure of ice is lower compared to water. As a result of extracellular ice formation, water evaporates, passes through semipermeable cell membranes, and is deposited on ice crystals outside the cells.

When water is removed from cells, the solute concentration increases, which reduces the chance of freezing. But as the ice continues to grow, the cells become increasingly dry. In damaged plants, the extracellular ice crystals are much larger than the surrounding dead cells, causing secondary stress to surrounding cells.

The culture does not withstand severe frosts. A normal planting depth in the ground of 3 to 8 centimeters can prevent potatoes from freezing at 0.-2 °C. The seedlings are damaged, but the potatoes, thanks to the development of dormant cells, form new shoots that replace the frozen top.

With prolonged exposure to the freezing effect the plant dies completely. In an adult plant, biosynthesis processes (assimilation) stop at 2-4 °C, as a result of which the tops turn brown. The plant freezes at minus temperatures of −2 °C.

The slope of the ground affects the severity of frost. Potatoes growing at higher levels experience warmer temperatures and less frost damage. Conversely, if planted in a low-lying area, it will experience microclimatic conditions known as frost pockets, which collect cold air.

Any lowland creates microclimate conditions, so you should be careful when planting crops in such conditions

At what temperature in spring will potatoes in the ground freeze?

Potatoes are planted in April, when the ground has thawed, dried and warmed up sufficiently. When planted in soil with a temperature of less than 6 ° C, some of the tubers may rot and die. Unexpected late frosts can damage seedlings when the green foliage turns black. Potatoes will not be harmed in the ground, but only if the top part survives. Early plantings exposed to long periods of cold weather die for other reasons:

cold and wet conditions delay germination and cause seed shredding;
light frosts, around 0. -2, cause little damage to potato plants, but the difference between a light frost and a severe frost is only a few degrees;
temperatures -2.5, -3.5 cause serious damage to potatoes.

Mulching potatoes

Potatoes grow best in rich, loose soil. It helps to create it using organic mulch. Reasons for using mulch include conserving soil moisture, improving fertility and health, reducing weed growth, and increasing the visual appeal of an area.

What are the benefits for potatoes from being under mulch?

During hot summer periods, mulching is a factor in plant survival. Mulching practices have a huge impact on soil moisture consistency. Potatoes are especially susceptible to excessive temperatures and irregular soil moisture.

A good thick layer of organic mulch helps keep it in optimal condition in both hot and cold weather.

By the beginning of the growing season mulch retains soil heat, which is especially important at night. As the potatoes grow, it stabilizes soil temperature and moisture and prevents weed growth.

The effect of mulch is complex. It forms a layer between the soil and the atmosphere, preventing sunlight from penetrating the surface, thereby reducing evaporation. On the other hand, it can prevent water from entering the soil by absorbing it.

About proper mulching: To maximize benefits and minimize negative impacts, mulch is most often applied in late spring or early summer, when soil temperatures are warmer but moisture content is still relatively high. Unlike soil it is not rich in nutrients, so it is better to feed it with organic fertilizer based on fish emulsion.

How to plant potatoes under mulch from cut grass

Mowed grass for mulch best mixed with tree leaves or coarse compost to allow aeration and decomposition of the material without rotting. Freshly cut grass can damage the plant; decomposition leads to a destructive build-up of heat that blocks the circulation of air and moisture, so it is best to dry it before use.

Comparison of mulch, grass clippings and straw

Cut grass	Straw
Mixed with dried leaf litter forms good compost with a healthy balance of nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; this dramatically reduces the need for artificial fertilizers).	Controls humidity and reduces high temperature stress of the plant, but is more vulnerable to frost and wind.
Decomposes quickly due to the correct ratio of carbon and nitrogen, which also helps to avoid problems such as mold and the unpleasant smell of rotting.	Controls weeds, but at the same time there is a possibility of contamination with seeds (weeds).
Fresh grass has a relatively high nitrate content, and most of it returns to the soil. Do not apply too thick a layer, as grass clippings decompose into slimy cellulose, which becomes very hot and can burn the plant.	Mostly carbon. It dries nitrogen out of the soil and therefore should be mixed with grass, manure, and compost to minimize losses.
Microbes can suck nitrogen and others nutrients from soil during the decomposition process, for this reason a little fertilizer is added to it, compensating for the loss.	An ideal environment for slugs, attracts mice and voles.

The benefit of any mulch is higher yields and easier harvesting of potatoes.

Growing potatoes under mulch

Any biodegradable material will work. But the most preferred method for growing high-yield potatoes is freshly cut grass or straw mulch. They keep the soil cool and moist, protecting against the Colorado potato beetle and other crawling insects.

Potato needs a thick layer, unlike other vegetable crops. Every few weeks it is checked for gaps and another layer is added.

To ensure the best results from growing potatoes using mulching, you must:

Loosen the soil well.
Prepare the area for planting. Dig a furrow about 10 centimeters deep and 25 cm wide four to six weeks before the last frost.
Mix the garden compost thoroughly (it will prevent soil compaction after landing).
Plant the seed tubers cut side down (or whole) with the eyes pointing up, about 30cm apart. Whole tubers are pressed into the soil about 8 cm deep, cut ones - 2 cm deep.
Fill the furrow with a 15 cm layer of clean straw.
When the plant breaks through the covering litter, add another layer 10 cm thick.

Water as needed, keeping the soil evenly moist but not soggy. There is no need to remove the mulch.

Watering potatoes

Water is a vital component in potato production, essential for both yield and quality. Irrigation at the beginning of the growing season minimizes common scab, stimulates bush growth, and maximizes the number of tubers.

At the end of the season helps to harvest with minimal losses. But water must be applied in sufficient quantities and at the right time to achieve a good harvest.

Features of watering

Regional climatic conditions, weather, soil conditions influence the choice of planting time.

The amount of water available for crop production depends on rooting depth (deep roots draw from a large reservoir of soil water). This factor must be taken into account when assessing whether how much water in the soil is available for use by the crop, the structure of which changes as it develops during the growing season.

For the root system of the crop, the optimal depth is about 70 cm.

Potato rooting depth may vary, but the optimum is usually 700 mm. Compacted soil reduces the ability of roots to find water in the soil, and accordingly affects irrigation planning recommendations.

Moderately acidic soil is preferred, but this is not essential since potatoes are adaptable to a wide range. Dig a furrow 10 centimeters deep, where the tuber is placed with the buds pointing upward and covered with soil.

If necessary, fertilizer can be scattered on top. Thus, when growing potatoes in an alkaline environment, sulfur is used after planting, which maximizes germination and eliminates common scab.

Do I need to water potatoes when planting?

Potato - moisture-loving culture, but it is not watered when planting. It is preferable to plant in an open and well-lit position, in fertile, evenly moist, well-drained soil.

The need for water is provided by the mother tuber. On the contrary, additional watering can cause rot.

It is believed that overwatering can cause rotting of the tuber chosen for growing potatoes

When to water after planting

Potatoes need a stable, seasonal supply of water, but this is important 6-10 weeks after planting when the crop is developing tubers. The crop is usually supplied with water after germination.

Watering rules for a good harvest

Reliable watering schedule, cool soil temperatures will provide evenly formed tubers. Both oversaturation with moisture and lack of water affect productivity and jeopardize the health of the plant.

The general rules are:

to water the potatoes once a week, taking into account possible precipitation, with a large amount of water, moistening the soil to about 30 cm in depth (minimum consumption 50 liters per 1 square meter (or approximately 3-4 liters per bush), but in fact it all depends on the characteristics of the soil );
The young plant is watered more often - once every 4-5 days;
increase frequency, once every 2-3 days, when tubers start to form(this happens almost simultaneously with the flowering of the plant);
towards the end of the growing season, when the tops turn yellow and begin to die, watering is stopped, which will allow the tubers to dry out before harvesting.

Uneven watering causes growths and cracks to appear on tubers. This is due to the fact that with insufficient water they do not develop, but with subsequent abundant irrigation a second (new) growth occurs.

How often do you water potatoes in open ground?

Potatoes need a lot of moisture, especially during the flowering period when tubers begin to form. If Mother Nature is reluctant to provide the necessary water, then some type of irrigation system may be necessary (drip irrigation has a big advantage).

Which open ground is better: loamy soil is considered ideal for potatoes. Its structure retains moisture well, and watering is sometimes better replaced by loosening (sometimes called dry watering).

Watering in hot weather: how often should you water?

In dry times the plant It is advisable to water at least once a week. It is better to do this in the evening and in two doses. Occasional heavy watering is sometimes better than insufficient frequent watering, which only moistens the surface layer of the soil, stimulating shallow rooting.

After watering, you can loosen the soil. Irrigation also has its effect.

Loosening the soil after watering will have a positive effect on the growth of the bush

How to water so that the tubers are not covered with scab and other ailments

It is preferable to water the plant in the early morning hours. The afternoon sun evaporates the water. A plant that remains wet at night is susceptible to disease.

Warm, wet foliage encourages mushroom growth and weakens the structure of the plant as a whole. In addition, watering should be directed to the roots where it is needed most, and not to the top of the plant.

How many times to water potatoes per season?

Moisture requirements in April-September vary depending on factors such as climatic conditions and soil type. Watering at certain stages of growth:

Planting and watering up to 30 days: Pre-emergence watering is avoided if the soil is dry before planting (pre-irrigation should always be considered). Young plants (after emergence) receive their first watering after about 5 days.
30-60 days: Moisture is critical for vegetative growth and tuber formation.
60-90 days: Proper and thorough watering is necessary for the growth of tubers.
90-120 days: the tops turn yellow and die. Watering about a week before harvest can still be continued, but in moderation.

The tops on the bush turn yellow 3-4 months after the first shoots

How to understand that watering is needed

The rate at which crops absorb moisture is highly dependent on the weather. Potatoes are a shallow-rooted plant, sensitive even to slight lack of water (in the root zone). Whenever it is exposed to moisture stress, its growth rate decreases.

To stimulate tuber formation, it is important to not allow soil temperatures to rise above 25°C. At higher temperatures, many of the initiated tubers are reabsorbed and plants end up with only two or three tubers.

The soil stores water in case of heavy rainfall after irrigation watering. Well-structured porous soil, like loam, can pass up to 100 mm of water per hour. Compacted heavy soil (clay) is limited to 5 mm per hour.

Signs of excess and lack of moisture

The consequences of improper watering practices result in the plant being exposed to stress, which continues for several days even after the problem has been eliminated. Excess moisture promotes rotting and increases the risk of disease. On the contrary, lack of moisture, when the soil dries out, completely stops the formation of tubers or leads to the development of various defects.

As with ordinary flowers, too little or too much moisture can have a negative impact on the plant. It is important to follow a watering schedule

Potatoes are one of the healthiest vegetable crops. It grows easily, requires little preparation, little care and even fun during harvest.

Potatoes: what temperature can they withstand, mulching and watering for growing? An example of mulching with cut grass

How to plant potatoes under mulch from cut grass

Mowed grass for mulch Best mixed with tree leaves or coarse compost to allow aeration and decomposition of the material without rotting. Freshly cut grass can damage the plant; decomposition leads to a destructive build-up of heat that blocks the circulation of air and moisture, so it is best to dry it before use.

Comparison of mulch, grass clippings and straw

Cut grass	Straw
Mixed with dried leaf litter Forms good compost with a healthy balance of nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; this dramatically reduces the need for artificial fertilizers).	Controls humidity and reduces high temperature stress of the plant, but is more vulnerable to frost and wind.
Decomposes quickly due to the correct ratio of carbon and nitrogen, which also helps to avoid problems such as mold and the unpleasant smell of rotting.	Controls weeds, but at the same time there is a possibility of contamination with seeds (weeds).
Fresh grass has a relatively high nitrate content, and most of it returns to the soil. Do not apply too thick a layer, as grass clippings decompose into slimy cellulose, which becomes very hot and can burn the plant.	Mostly carbon. It dries nitrogen out of the soil and therefore should be mixed with grass, manure, and compost to minimize losses.
Microbes Can suck nitrogen and others Nutrients from the soil during the decomposition process, for this reason a little fertilizer is added to it, compensating for the loss.	An ideal environment for slugs, attracts mice and voles.

The benefit of any mulch is higher yields and easier harvesting of potatoes.

An example of straw mulching

Growing potatoes under mulch

Potato Needs a thick layer, unlike other vegetable crops. Every few weeks it is checked for gaps and another layer is added.

To ensure the best results from growing potatoes using mulching, you must:

Loosen the soil well. Prepare the area for planting. Dig a furrow about 10 centimeters deep and 25 cm wide four to six weeks before the last frost. Mix the garden compost thoroughly (it Prevents soil compaction After landing). Plant the seed tubers cut side down (or whole) with the eyes pointing up, about 30cm apart. Whole tubers are pressed into the soil about 8 cm deep, cut ones - 2 cm deep. Fill the furrow with a 15 cm layer of clean straw. When the plant breaks through the covering litter, Add another layer 10 cm thick.
The crop requires a thick layer of mulch

Water as needed, keeping the soil evenly moist but not soggy. There is no need to remove the mulch.

Temperature conditions for potatoes: optimal indicators during growth, ripening, storage, what to do if tubers and tops are frozen

If potatoes are frozen in the underground, then you need to:

Do not panic; determine the magnitude of the temperature drop below zero; try to establish the duration of such a decrease; identify the cause of the temperature drop.

In other words, you need to analyze the situation and assess the scale of the disaster. The result of such an analysis should be a conclusion about whether the potatoes were frozen or only slightly damaged by negative temperatures.

In any case, a final assessment of the consequences can only be made by taking an inventory of stocks. If the potatoes are just frozen, then the tuber will be damaged in some part. However, this verdict is not so comforting: the damaged tuber will now begin to rot. Such potatoes cannot be stored; they urgently need to be disposed of.

If negative temperatures persist for a long time, this can only mean one thing - the potatoes are frozen. Of course, you can no longer use it as a product for sale, but it is quite suitable for food. We eat fresh frozen vegetables.

Frozen potatoes do not lose their nutritional value. It’s just that when exposed to negative temperatures, some of the substances turn into sugars, and the potatoes become sweetish. Some people find their charm in this. You can’t eat sprouted and rotting potatoes, but you can and even should eat frozen ones. Just cook it immediately in boiling water, without defrosting it first.

Temperature range of adaptations for growing potatoes

This vegetable's sensitivity to temperature varies depending on what stage of growth it is in.

Storing potatoes: 5 common mistakes

Storing potatoes: 5 common mistakes We make a huge mistake by storing tubers of early ripening potato varieties. And the point here is not at all in its taste - they are excellent - but these potatoes cannot be stored for a long time. Even under ideal conditions, early-ripening potatoes are stored only until November. Then it begins to quickly germinate and withers, completely losing its qualities, which means it becomes unsuitable for food needs.

Suitable for long-term storage only Potatoes of medium and late ripening– remember this.

Mistake 2: Poor quality potatoes can be stored

Sometimes, succumbing to a fleeting temptation, we store potatoes of questionable or low quality, hoping that they will successfully overwinter. Most often this happens in lean years, but believe me, this is a serious mistake! Potatoes can be successfully stored throughout the long winter only if the tuber harvest is of excellent quality and absolutely healthy.

That is why, before storing tubers, they must not only be thoroughly dried, removing all the soil and various foreign impurities, but also sorted, throwing aside all small, frozen, rotting, damaged and diseased ones. Even if you store them at optimal temperature and humidity, Stock only high-quality healthy potatoes for the winter.

Mistake 3: Potatoes and other vegetables

This is how we are used to it: we put the potatoes in boxes for storage, and we also distributed the beets, carrots, onions and garlic into separate boxes. And if there is no space, what to do? Can't potatoes be stored together with other vegetables?

It is possible, but not with everyone. Potatoes are simply ideally stored with beets, which are placed on top of the tubers. And they do this not only to save storage space. Beets perfectly absorb excess moisture, which only benefits it, thereby protecting potato tubers from rotting.

Mistake 4: Potatoes do not require special storage conditions

In order to preserve the harvest in winter, we adapt cellars and crawl spaces, basements, and some urban gardeners have to use a loggia or balcony for this, or even a storage room in the apartment. But if there should be no problems with storing potatoes in cellars and basements (with the right approach to the matter, of course), then in the case of loggias and balconies, troubles happen quite often. By the way, you can read about how to properly store potatoes in basements and cellars in the article The best ways to store vegetables in winter.

If a loggia or balcony is the only place where you can store your harvest, approach this difficult task responsibly. You should not leave an uncovered bag of potatoes on the balcony and hope that they will be preserved normally - a miracle will not happen. Try using simple home storage instead:

Potato storage box

It can be built from wooden boards or shields. It is best when there are two such boxes (of different sizes), inserted one into the other - like nesting dolls. The volume of the inner box should be slightly smaller - so that there is a distance of about 5 cm between them. By the way, the bottom and lid of the box also need to be made double. It is best to fill the void between the boxes and lids with thick foam or dry sawdust. The outside of the storage must be lined with plastic, a piece of galvanized steel, linoleum, or simply painted - this will protect its contents from moisture.

Household thermal container Balcony cellar

If you have neither the time nor the desire to build a stationary container for storing potatoes on the balcony, I suggest an alternative - a household thermal container Balcony Cellar. This is essentially a double bag made from durable tent fabric that is quite attractive to look at. It is insulated with a special, highly durable padding polyester and equipped with electric heating. In such a cellar, any vegetables will be stored on the balcony even at a frost of -40 ° C, because inside this miracle device the temperature is always automatically maintained at +1 ... + 7 ° C.

You can control the temperature using an electronic thermostat with a special convenient screen. The cellar opens with an ordinary zipper. It is also very easy to care for - you just need to clean it in the spring, wash it if necessary, and you can put it away until the next season. The Cellar is available in 3 modifications: 100 liters (about 1 bag of potatoes), 180 liters (about 2 bags of potatoes) and 300 liters (about 3 bags of potatoes).

Mistake 5: You can’t sort potatoes into storage

There is an opinion that by putting potatoes into storage, we only harm them - we unwittingly damage the tubers and mix sick ones with healthy ones. It's a delusion.

During winter storage Potatoes need to be sorted, since various infectious diseases can manifest themselves in it. Tuber picking should begin as soon as you notice decaying tubers - this is bacterial soft rot.

When sorting through potatoes, you need to remove from storage not only rotten tubers, but also all those that come into contact with them. If only healthy tubers lie on the surface, but an unpleasant odor emanates from the container and small flies - fruit flies - appear in the room, these are also signs of rot. Such potatoes must be sorted out all over, removing diseased and infected tubers.

I hope that thanks to my tips you will be able to preserve your potatoes for as long as possible. I would be very interested to know how you store potatoes? What mistakes were made when storing it, how did you manage to eliminate them, what secrets did you discover for yourself?