How to make a ventilation. How to arrange ventilation ducts in a private house: design rules and construction guidelines. Photo of ventilation of a private house with your own hands

Natural ventilation system in a private house - features and disadvantages

The natural ventilation system in a private house consists of vertical channels that begin in the ventilated room and end above the roof ridge.

The upward movement of air through the channels occurs under the influence of forces (thrust) caused by the difference in air temperatures at the inlet and outlet of the channel. Warm indoor air is lighter than cold outdoor air.

The draft in the ventilation channel is also influenced by the wind, which can either increase or decrease the draft. The traction force also depends on other factors: the height and cross-section of the ventilation duct, the presence of turns and narrowings, thermal insulation of the duct, etc.

Scheme of ventilation of premises in a multi-storey private house

According to building regulations, the natural ventilation channel must provide standard air exchange at outside air temperature +5 o C , without taking into account the influence of wind.

In summer, when the outside air temperature is higher than specified, air exchange worsens. Air circulation through natural ventilation channels almost completely stops when the outside air temperature is above +15 o C.

In winter, the colder it is outside, the stronger the traction and higher. According to some estimates, heat loss in winter through the natural ventilation system can reach 40% of all heat loss at home.

In houses, natural ventilation ducts usually come from the kitchen, bathrooms, boiler room and dressing rooms. Additional channels are provided for ventilation of the basement or for the device.

On the upper floors of a private house it is also often necessary to install additional natural ventilation channels from living rooms to ensure the air exchange required by standards.

In the attic rooms Natural ventilation, as a rule, cannot provide the required air exchange due to a lack of draft in low-height ventilation ducts.

Natural ventilation standards

Russian building rules SP 55.13330.2011 “Single-apartment residential houses”, clause 8.4. require:

Minimum performance of the home ventilation system in maintenance mode should be determined based on at least one exchange of air volume per hour in rooms with constant presence of people.

In service mode, at least 60 m3 of air per hour must be removed from the kitchen, and 25 m3 of air per hour from the bathtub and restroom.

The air exchange rate in other rooms, as well as in all ventilated rooms in non-working mode, must be at least 0.2 room volume per hour.

A room with permanent occupancy is a room in which people are expected to stay for at least 2 hours continuously or 6 hours in total during the day.

For comparison, here are the requirements for ventilation performance in an apartment building, at a minimum:

The amount of air exchange specified in the standards must be ensured for the design conditions: outside air temperature +5 o C, and indoor air temperature during the cold season (for residential premises +22 o C) .

The supply of outside air to the premises should be provided through special air supply devices in external walls or windows.

For apartments and premises in which the outside temperature is +5 °C removal of the normalized air flow is not ensured; mechanical exhaust ventilation should be provided.

Mechanical ventilation with partial use of natural ventilation systems for air supply or removal (mixed ventilation) should also be provided during periods of the year when microclimate parameters and air quality cannot be ensured by natural ventilation.

For example, when the outside temperature is above +5 o C, the performance of natural ventilation channels is reduced. In this case, it is allowed to increase air exchange in rooms with windows by opening windows, vents and transoms. In rooms without windows, mechanical forced exhaust ventilation should be provided.

The natural ventilation system in a private house works as follows

In old houses and apartments, fresh air from the street penetrates into the living rooms through leaks in wooden windows, then through the overflow holes in the doors(usually the gap between the edge of the door and the floor) reaches the kitchen and bathrooms and exits into the natural ventilation channel.

The main purpose of such ventilation is to remove combustion products, gas, moisture and odors from the kitchen and bathrooms. Living rooms in such a system are not sufficiently ventilated. In rooms, you have to open the windows for ventilation.

If modern sealed window designs are used in the house, for the flow of fresh air it is necessary to install special supply valves in the outer walls of the rooms or in the windows.

Often, supply valves are not installed even in new houses. For air flow you have to keep the window sashes ajar at all times, at best, by installing “micro-ventilation” fittings on the windows. (First we choose and pay money for airtight windows with several levels of seals to protect against cold, noise and dust, and then we keep them constantly ajar!? :-?)

You can also often see how airtight doors are installed in the premises of the house, without a gap at the floor or other opening for air passage. Installing airtight doors cuts off the natural circulation of air between rooms of the house.

Many are not even aware of the need ensure a constant flow of fresh air into the rooms and air circulation between rooms. Having installed plastic windows and sealed doors, they still live in stuffiness, with condensation and mold. And in the indoor air there is an increased concentration of deadly gases - and insidious gases.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation

All these open vents, slightly open sashes, cracks in windows, valve openings in external walls and windows cause drafts, serve as a source of street dust, allergenic pollen, insects and street noise.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation in our homes is the lack of control and regulation of the amount of air supplied and removed from the premises.

As a result, often the house is stuffy, high humidity, condensation on the windows and in other places, fungus and mold appear. Usually, this indicates that the ventilation is not doing its job - removing pollution and excess moisture released into the room air. The amount of air escaping through the ventilation is clearly not enough.

In other houses in winter it’s often the other way around, the air is very dry with relative humidity less than 30% (comfortable humidity 40-60%). This indicates that too much air is being lost through the ventilation. The frosty, dry air entering the house does not have time to become saturated with moisture and immediately goes into the ventilation duct. And the heat goes away with the air. We get discomfort of the indoor microclimate and heat loss.

In summer, the draft in the natural ventilation channel decreases, until the air movement in the channel completely stops. In this case, the rooms are ventilated by opening the windows. Other rooms without windows, for example, a bathroom, toilet, dressing room, cannot be ventilated in this way. Such In rooms that remain without ventilation in the summer, moist air easily and quickly accumulates, and then the smell, fungus and mold appears.

How to improve natural ventilation

The operation of natural ventilation can be made more economical if you install an automatic valve at the entrance to the ventilation duct, controlled by a humidity sensor. The degree to which the valve opens will depend on the air humidity in the room - the higher the humidity, the more the valve is open.

They install in the rooms supply valves controlled by an outside air temperature sensor. As the temperature decreases, the air density increases and the valve must be closed to prevent excess cold air from entering the room.

Automation of valve operation will reduce heat loss with air escaping through ventilation by 20-30%, and the overall heat loss of the house by 7-10%.

It should be understood that such local automation of the operation of each individual valve will not be able to fully eliminate the shortcomings of the natural ventilation system in the house. Installing automatic valves will only slightly improve the performance of ventilation, especially in winter.

At a minimum, you can install adjustable grilles and valves on the supply and exhaust ducts, and adjust them manually, at least twice a year. During the winter period, they are covered, and with the onset of warmth, the exhaust grilles and supply valves are opened completely.

Building regulations allow the rate of air exchange in non-operating modes of premises to be reduced to 0.2 room volume per hour, i.e. five times. There will always be rarely used rooms in the house. Especially on the upper floors of the house. In winter, be sure to close ventilation valves in rarely used rooms.

A ventilator in the outer wall provides a forced flow of air into the room. Fan power only 3 -7 W.

Compared to a supply valve, the ventilator has the following advantages:

The volume of air coming from the street is limited only by the power of the fan.
They create excess pressure in the room, due to which air exchange increases in houses and apartments with poorly functioning exhaust ventilation ducts, and also prevents the suction of polluted air from neighboring rooms and the basement.
Reduce the dependence of natural ventilation on climatic factors.
Deep air purification from dust, allergens and odors is achievable through the use of more efficient filters with high aerodynamic resistance.
Provide the best.

Ventilators equipped with an electronic climate control system, air heating, and special filters are often called breathers.

Inexpensive electronic devices for home use are available that measure air humidity. Hang such a device on the wall and adjust the throughput of the ventilation channels, focusing on the readings of the device. Maintain optimal air humidity in residential areas of 40-60%.

Check the presence and size of ventilation openings to move air between rooms in the house. The area of the overflow hole for the exit of air from the living room must be at least 200 cm 2. Usually they leave a gap between the edge of the door and the floor in the room 2-3 cm.

Overflow hole for air entry into the kitchen, bathroom or to another room equipped with a ventilation exhaust duct, must have an area of at least 800 cm 2. Here it is better to install a ventilation grille at the bottom of the door or interior wall of the room.

When moving from a room to a room with a ventilation duct, air should pass through no more than two flow openings (two doors).

Ventilation ducts that pass through an unheated room (attic) must be insulated. Rapid cooling of the air in the channel reduces draft and leads to condensation from the removed air. The route of the natural ventilation channel should not have horizontal sections, which also reduce draft.

Fan in the natural ventilation duct

To improve the operation of natural ventilation, kitchen hoods are installed, as well as electric fans at the entrance of ventilation ducts. Such fans are suitable only for short-term and intensive ventilation of rooms during periods of significant moisture and pollution. The fans are very noisy, their performance, and therefore power consumption, exceeds the values necessary for constant ventilation.

It should be noted that installing a fan in an existing natural ventilation duct reduces the lumen of the duct. Autorotation of the blades (rotation of the blades of an idle fan under the pressure of incoming air) further increases the aerodynamic resistance of the channel. As a result, installation fan significantly reduces the force of natural draft in the duct.

A similar situation occurs when a kitchen hood above the stove is connected to the only natural ventilation channel in the kitchen.

Filters, valves and a fan in the kitchen hood practically block the natural draft in the ventilation duct. A kitchen with the hood turned off remains without ventilation, which impairs air exchange throughout the house.

To correct the situation, into the air duct between the natural ventilation duct and the kitchen hood It is recommended to place a tee with a check valve on the side outlet. When the hood is not working, the check valve opens, ensuring free passage of air from the kitchen into the ventilation duct.

When you turn on the kitchen hood A large amount of warm air is released into the street for the sole purpose of removing odors and other contaminants that form above the stove.

To prevent heat loss, it is recommended to install an umbrella over the kitchen stove, equipped with a fan, filters and odor absorbers for deep air purification. After filtration, the air, purified from odors and contaminants, is sent back into the room. This type of hood is often called a filter hood with recirculation. It should be taken into account that the savings from lower heating costs are somewhat offset due to the need to periodically replace filters in the hood.

Available for sale fans controlled by a humidity sensor. The fan turns on when a certain threshold of humidity in the room is reached and turns off when it decreases. All of the above features of the operation of fans in a natural ventilation system are preserved when working with a humidity sensor.

In any case, fan operation only leads to an increase in draft in the ventilation duct and a decrease in humidity in the room. But it is not able to limit natural draft, preventing excessive dry air and heat loss in winter.

In addition, in the natural ventilation system, several elements located in different parts of the house work in concert - supply valves, exhaust ducts, flow grilles between rooms.

Turning on a fan in one of the channels often leads to disruption of the operation of other elements of the system. For example, the supply valves in the house often cannot pass the sharply increased amount of air required for the fan to operate. As a result, when you turn on the hood in the kitchen, the draft in the exhaust duct in the bathroom overturns - air from the street begins to enter the house through the exhaust duct in the bathroom.

Natural ventilation in a private house is a system:

simple and cheap to install;
does not have any mechanisms requiring an electric drive;
reliable, does not break;
very cheap to operate - costs are associated only with the need to perform periodic inspections and cleaning of ventilation ducts;
does not make noise;
the efficiency of its operation strongly depends on atmospheric conditions - most of the time the ventilation does not operate in optimal mode;
has a limited ability to adjust its performance, only in the direction of reducing air exchange;
in winter, the operation of the natural ventilation system leads to significant heat loss;
in summer the ventilation system does not work, ventilation of the premises is possible only through open windows and vents;
there is no possibility of preparing the air supplied to the room - filtration, heating or cooling, changing humidity;
does not provide the necessary comfort (air exchange) - which causes stuffiness, dampness (fungi, mold) and drafts, and also serves as a source of street dust (pollen) and insects, and reduces the sound insulation of rooms.

Ventilation of the upper floors of a multi-storey private house

In a multi-storey building, as in a large ventilation duct, there is a natural draft, under the influence of which air from the first floor rushes up the stairs to the upper floors.

If we do not take any measures, then on the upper floors of the house we will always have stuffiness and high humidity, and in the house there will be a temperature difference between floors.

There are two options for installing natural ventilation in the upper floors of the house.

Read:

Ventilation in a wooden house

It’s interesting that traditional for Russia houses with walls made of logs or timber do not have special devices for ventilation. Ventilation of rooms in such houses occurs due to walls (“breathing walls”), ceilings and windows, as well as as a result of air movement through the chimney when the stove is fired.

In the construction of a modern wooden house, various methods of sealing are increasingly being used - machine profiling of the mating surfaces of logs and beams, sealants for inter-crown seams, vapor-tight and windproof films in ceilings, sealed windows. The walls of the house are sheathed and insulated, and treated with various toxic compounds.

As a rule, there are no stoves in the rooms of the house.

A ventilation system in such modern wooden houses is simply necessary.

Ventilation of dressing rooms and storage rooms

Ventilation must be provided in the dressing room or storage room. Without ventilation, rooms will smell, humidity will increase, and condensation, mildew and mold may even appear on the walls.

The natural ventilation scheme for these rooms should exclude the flow of air from the dressing room or storage room into the living rooms.

If the doors of these rooms open onto the corridor, hall or kitchen, then the rooms are ventilated in the same way as the living rooms in the house are ventilated. To bring in fresh air from the street, a supply valve is placed in the window (if there is one) or in the wall. In the doors of the dressing room, pantries, a gap is left at the bottom, between the door and the floor, or another hole is made for air passage, for example, a ventilation grill is inserted into the lower part of the door.

Fresh air enters the dressing room or pantry through the supply valve, then leaves through the hole in the door into the corridor, and then goes to the kitchen, into the exhaust duct of the natural ventilation of the house.

There should be more than two doors between the dressing room or storage room and the room where there is a natural ventilation channel.

If the doors of the dressing room open into the living room, then the movement of air for ventilation of the dressing room should be organized in the opposite direction - from the living room, through the hole in the door, into the ventilation duct of the dressing room. In this version The dressing room is equipped with a natural ventilation channel.

Ventilation in your city

Ventilation

Ventilation of a private house. Air flows in the house - video:

The purpose of ventilation is to improve the air quality in the home. There is a conflict between the need to improve air quality and minimize the cost of modern ventilation and reduce its energy consumption.

Meanwhile, ventilation is not the only way to improve indoor air quality. The most important thing is to control the sources of air pollution. We are talking about everyday habits, such as not smoking in the room, making sure that bacteria and fungi do not multiply in the apartment.

The quality of air in a home clearly depends on whether materials with low levels of harmful emissions are used for construction. Natural materials such as wood, stone or glass are considered primarily as such.

By judicious selection of materials during the construction phase, good home air quality can be maintained even if a less expensive and energy-intensive ventilation system is installed.

Types of ventilation systems

There are two types of ventilation:

natural;
mechanical.

In turn, the mechanical ventilation system is divided into:

supply;
exhaust;
supply and exhaust;
with heat recovery.

The choice of a specific ventilation system depends on the air exchange characteristics of the room. After all, a comfortable stay in a room depends not only on the availability of fresh air (or its temperature), but also on the speed of flow movement (it should be minimal).

Naturally, the air exchange rate of natural ventilation (about 1 m³/hour) is significantly lower than the rate of mechanical ventilation (from 3 to 5 m³/hour). The presence of effective natural air exchange will create the most optimal conditions for people to stay indoors.

This does not apply to those cases where forced air exchange is indispensable:

the maximum possible channel diameter is necessary at low speeds of air flow;
if it is impossible to create a channel with a large cross-section.

The process of installing ventilation in a private house with your own hands consists of two main steps:

determining the location of ventilation elements (equipment, air ducts, places for exhaust air exhaust and fresh air supply);
purchase and installation of air ducts and equipment.

There are 3 types of air ducts:

round;
rectangular;
flexible.

Round and rectangular products have a smooth surface. But unlike rectangular ones, round air ducts are characterized by minimal resistance to air flows.

Due to the uneven corrugated coating, flexible material has the greatest resistance. But you can’t do without flexible air ducts in places where the duct has several branches (for example, in the case of connecting a kitchen hood to the main duct).

Natural ventilation device in a private house

Normal ventilation of the room is achieved due to a good flow of fresh air from the street with proper movement along the ventilation duct.

Natural ventilation in a private house is carried out by:

opening vents, windows or doors;
use of supply valves.

Vents, windows and doors

This option involves ventilating the room using:

An open window for ventilation (plastic window). It is fraught with maximum heat losses and the occurrence of condensation on slopes and window units in winter. Air exchange occurs within 40-70 minutes.
Fully open windows. Structures do not cool excessively. 6-10 minutes are enough to ventilate the room.
Open windows and front door. You will have to leave ventilated rooms because there is a draft. Ventilation of the premises occurs within 3-4 minutes.

All these methods of ventilating a private house must be used if the walls are lined with airtight, heat-insulating material and metal-plastic windows are installed. If for some reason ventilation by opening vents, windows and doors is not an acceptable option (small child, sick family members), then you should use supply valves.

Supply valves

The main characteristic of metal-plastic windows is tightness. After sealing the cracks between the windows and the wall with polyurethane foam and the slopes with cement mortar, air will not penetrate naturally into the house. To solve the problem of room ventilation, they resort to installing supply valves.

If the windows will only be installed, then you can order blocks with supply window valves. They are a built-in hole with which the supply of fresh air is regulated.

When windows are installed, you will have to use supply wall valves, which are round pipes. The pipes are inserted into the wall and covered with grilles on both sides. The air flow is adjusted using the internal valve grille.

The bedroom, hall and dining room are the best places to install supply valves. This is due to the fact that the correct movement of air flows must be observed (from living rooms to the bathroom, toilet or kitchen).

The valves are located near the windows. Preferably behind heating radiators. In this case, fresh air will enter the room already heated.

Mechanical ventilation

Exhaust ventilation

The exhaust type of room air exchange involves the use of an exhaust fan, which is installed in a duct (usually attached to the wall). Fans are installed in the dirtiest rooms: the bathroom and kitchen.

The range of exhaust fans is varied:

With humidity sensor (for bathroom). They function until normal humidity is established.
Attached to an electrical switch. The hood turns on with a delay of several seconds after turning on/off the light.
With noise-absorbing bushings made of rubber or metal.

To select a specific model for the exhaust ventilation device of a private house, the exhaust flow rate and pressure loss when the air moves through the duct are calculated. These indicators are determined based on the length and material of the air duct.

Fan power has a direct impact on the amount of exhaust air removed. Moreover, the effective operation of exhaust ventilation directly depends on the high-quality flow of cold air from the street. In fact, ventilation with a hood complements natural air exchange.

When laying air ducts, you can use the following diagram:

the main elements are made as rigid as possible from galvanized sheet;
Corrugated material is used to install branches;
To prevent condensation from occurring, the air ducts from the ventilation equipment to the exhaust grille are insulated.

Forced ventilation

The principle of operation of the supply ventilation of a private house is similar to the operation of exhaust equipment. The only difference is that fresh air is pumped by a fan. Exhaust air is removed using channels designed for natural air exchange.

The fan that supplies the room with fresh air can be equipped with a heating element. The performance of the ventilation system depends on the diameter of the duct. The disadvantage of supply ventilation is large heat losses in winter.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

Based on the name, it is not difficult to guess that the operation of this type of air exchange is based on the use of various fans. The simplest ventilation system provides:

fresh air supply by forced-air fans;
removal of exhaust air using exhaust equipment.

In winter, air currents coming from the street can be heated. Thanks to supply and exhaust ventilation, effective ventilation of rooms is achieved. The only “minus” of such air exchange is the large financial costs of its maintenance.

For this reason, today there is an increased demand for supply and exhaust systems with heat recovery, which allow saving on heating costs.

Ventilation with heat recovery

In winter, too much heat is spent heating fresh air coming from the street. To prevent this, recuperators are used to install the ventilation system. Thanks to their installation, heat savings amount to 50%.

Air recovery can occur at different times of the year:

when severe frost sets in, the recuperator brings the temperature in the room to +20ºС using the built-in heating element;
on hot days, on the contrary, the incoming air is cooled (cool exhaust air passes through the recuperator and cools the incoming flows).

The performance of the ventilation system depends on the recovery coefficient. This indicator indicates the amount of thermal energy expended to heat fresh air coming from the street. It is better to use rotary recuperators with a coefficient of 75-85%.

When purchasing equipment, you should take into account that some manufacturers indicate a recovery coefficient of 98-99%. This indicator was obtained based on the results of laboratory tests. In practice, the minimum recovery rate of high-quality equipment will be 85%.

As for the installation location of the recuperator, it is better to determine it in advance. Typically, a utility room or attic is chosen to place equipment. When installing the heat exchanger in the attic, the equipment should be covered with heat-insulating material. Otherwise, the coolant will freeze and the recuperator will fail.

Features of creating ventilation in a room with gas

Ventilation of the room where the gas boiler is installed is a must. Gas combustion products have a harmful effect on the human body and lead to the development of serious diseases. In addition, they are also explosive.

Gas ventilation in a private house can be any of the above (both natural and mechanical). It all comes down to compliance with the following standards:

Absolute tightness of the ventilation system. The seams where the chimney elements are connected are sealed with heat-resistant sealant. The air ducts are covered with thermal insulation material.
A maximum of 2 units of gas equipment can be connected to one duct. Even if the equipment is located at a decent distance from each other.
The ventilation duct should only go outside.
The choice of fans is made based on the power of the gas boiler. To support the combustion process, there is a sufficient supply of oxygen. Otherwise, the boiler will become covered with soot, and its performance will significantly decrease. A drop in oxygen levels can lead to reverse draft.
Laying of air ducts for a geyser is carried out in a strictly vertical position. The length of the chimney must exceed 4 m, and its upper part must protrude above the roof at a level of 1 m. It is recommended to insulate the air ducts.
The use of a gas stove in the kitchen is recommended when the ceiling height is more than 2.2 m. The ventilation duct should be located in the upper part of the room.

Creating a ventilation system from scratch involves the following actions:

the location of the hole for the air duct is marked;
a puncher makes holes in the middle and around the circumference;
using a hammer and chisel, knock out the wall covering from the middle;
an air duct is inserted;
The gaps between the wall and the air duct are sealed with sealant;
an exhaust fan is attached;
a ventilation grille is installed.

The installation of a chimney for a gas water heater consists of the following steps:

fastening the passage pipe to the wall;
connecting the pipe to the rotating element at an angle of 90º (the column will be attached from the inside);
installation of pipes from the bottom up (clamps are used to connect them);
uniform distribution of fasteners throughout the pipe (a distance of 2 m is sufficient) followed by fixing them to the wall;
checking the functionality of the system (effective ventilation is indicated by tilting the flame of a lit match towards the pipe).

Video about ventilation in a private house:

Reading time ≈ 13 minutes

People of the older generation often say that our homes are becoming more and more like aquariums, and this trend is constantly progressing. We are replacing wooden windows with plastic sets, and wooden entrance doors with metal panels with a tight fit, but such progress has both positive and negative sides.

The desire for such a replacement is quite understandable - the house becomes warmer, since plastic and double metal do not allow air flows from the street to pass through, and it also provides excellent sound insulation, which is important in the age of rapid technological growth. It is quite natural that in such a situation (after all the changes in housing) the question arises of how to make a hood in a private house with your own hands and, of course, most homeowners want to arrange an exit through the wall - it is more convenient and cheaper than through the ceiling.

The most uncomplicated hood made through the wall

What types of hoods are there?

Mechanical supply and exhaust valve

In this case, we are talking specifically about the hood, since ventilation can be not only exhaust, but also supply. However, both will be affected:

Natural ventilation. The possibility of natural ventilation exists in every house or apartment - these are open windows and doors. And in the old building with wooden frames, these are cracks at the windows and sashes and poor fit of the door panels to the frames.
A double-sided grille with blinds can be inserted into the wall, which can be adjusted as desired, making the gap larger or smaller. Such factors allow the air to move arbitrarily, in accordance with differences in temperature, pressure or wind. But this is the main disadvantage of natural circulation - it is completely dependent on atmospheric phenomena.
In addition, a mechanical supply and exhaust valve or a double-sided grille with a fan can be inserted into the wall, which acts like a pump, pumping air in one or two directions.
The main advantage of natural hoods is the ability to install such valves in any room of the house, the wall of which borders on the street. Since we are talking about a private home, such devices are rarely included in the project - they are made during the operation of the home, as needed.
Since channels for natural ventilation are ineffective, they are equipped with exhaust fans. In private homes, such devices are installed in bathrooms and kitchens, in home workshops and storage rooms. In most cases, this is enough to clear the air of unpleasant odors and fumes.

In order to correctly calculate the power of the hood, you will have to take into account several factors, and first of all, this is the volume (not area) of the room, since with the same square footage of the room, the difference in the amount of air contained there can be very different. For example, a kitchen 2.5x3 m with a ceiling height of 2.5 m holds 2.5 * 3 * 2.5 = 18.75 m3, but if you raise the ceilings by only half a meter, you get 2.5 * 3 * 3 = 22.5 m3 of air. As you can see, the difference is significant and if in the first case a hole ø 100 mm is sufficient, then for the second option it is advisable to use a 150 mm channel. But if, for example, the kitchen has 30 m3, then it is better to make two holes of 100 mm each rather than one ø 200 mm - the effectiveness of this approach has been tested in practice, especially since you can use either one or two units at the same time.

You should also take into account the physical properties of air flows - warm ones always rise to the top, carrying steam along with unpleasant odors. For this reason, exhaust devices are always mounted under the ceiling, even if there is a fan there (in the duct). In addition, some modern systems have additional equipment for the motor, which reacts to the level of humidity in the room and, when the required indicator is reached, they simply turn off the power supply, and when the humidity rises, turn it on again. But due to the high cost of such equipment, it is not popular in the residential sector - it is much more convenient and profitable to use air-conditioned split systems.

In boiler rooms and semi-basements

Ventilation system in a boiler room of a private house

In the top image you see a diagram of the ventilation system in the boiler room of a private house - it is supply and exhaust, since if you simply pump out the air, but do not allow inflow from the street, this will prevent combustion in diesel, gas and solid fuel boilers. An vent in the wall, as a rule, is most conveniently equipped with a fan, which can be started using a thermal relay. That is, there is no need to purchase expensive and, moreover, rare automatic control equipment - a start interrupter via a thermal relay can be easily designed and installed with your own hands. But, be that as it may, in addition to the forced wall hood, the boiler room must have an opening window or transom.

When building a house with a basement floor, at least two vents are provided in advance, which are made in the wall under the ceiling - these are, in fact, stationary wall exhaust devices for natural circulation. If necessary, in such rooms, electric fans are installed in the air vents, and all wiring is packaged in linear or corrugated cable ducts - this is very convenient and aesthetically pleasing. The same method can be used for kitchens or bathrooms if the wiring was not installed during construction or renovation.

Wall ventilation schemes

Exhaust valve with fan (top left) for wall ventilation

Essentially, there are three ways to design exhaust ventilation:

With natural draft (due to temperature and pressure differences).
With forced outflow using a fan impeller (the most popular).
Combined option - the hood can operate in two modes.

Installation work in the kitchen

120mm hole for kitchen hood

Now let's figure out how to make a kitchen hood in a private house with your own hands, using an exit through the wall, however, as is done in most cases. Let's start with the diameter. It is best to connect a 100-mm metal corrugation to the work umbrella, but not polyvinyl chloride pipes, which are rigid and make a smooth transition from vertical to horizontal too difficult. In addition, it is not always possible to make an outlet hole exactly opposite the umbrella pipe, and there may be various reasons for this - reluctance to disturb the architecture of the facade, a pipe running along the wall, or any other obstacles.

Flange for fastening the corrugation

But the hole in the wall should be made with a core cutter (pobedite or diamond) ø 120 mm - now I’ll explain why such a discrepancy in diameter is needed. The corrugation itself is put on a flange, which is first screwed over a hole made in the wall, and the metal hose does not even go inside with its edge. But after drilling, no matter what the wall is made of, it will crumble - not much, but quite enough so that this dust can get into the kitchen in the wind and this should be immediately prevented. Therefore, a polyvinyl chloride casing pipe with an internal ø 100 mm and an external ø 110 mm is inserted there - it fits in there freely, but if there is a socket, then the last centimeters have to be hammered through the board so as not to break the PVC.

The hole in the wall is not always opposite the umbrella outlet

Before installing the corrugation on the hood, you need to calculate its length, and for this you will have to determine the height of the umbrella above the gas or electric stove. Generally speaking, this is approximately 70-75 cm, although this parameter should be determined independently, and you should start from the convenience of the housewife working at the hob; personally, when I make such installations, I take this into account. In our country, approximately 50-70% of women, and men too (or better yet, families), are engaged in home canning of fruits and vegetables.

In order to preserve 4 three-liter bottles in one go, you will need a large 40 liter pan (four-bucket), but now let’s estimate the dimensions. The height of the pan is 35 cm, the height of a standard bottle is 24 cm, in total, 35 + 24 = 59 cm. But in order to pull the jar out of the pan by hand, you need at least another 10 cm of distance (there is no talk of a tong grip here maybe), therefore, 59 + 10 = 69 cm and this is right next to each other. This is why I argue that the distance between the hob and the umbrella should be at least 70-75 cm.

Attaching the exhaust hood to the wall

The exhaust hood can be mounted in two ways - either to the wall, or it can be mounted in the wall cabinet of the kitchen unit, even if the air is exhausted through the roof. But there is one more nuance here: if the installation of the hood is provided in one of the cabinets of the kitchen set, then its connection is carried out inside these cabinets, and ≈220V is supplied to the common terminal on the top of the kitchen set and from there the lighting above the tables and, possibly, additional sockets are connected. This installation is convenient because absolutely all wiring, switches and sockets are hidden.

But there are options when the umbrella is inserted into the cabinet, but there are no built-in lights in the upper part of the set, therefore, an independent installation of the socket will be required here. If the socket is hidden in a closet, it is very convenient to install it - the surface-mounted socket itself is screwed to the wall or ceiling of the closet and connected from a ≈220V wire coming out of the wall or coming down from the ceiling. But if there are no wall cabinets at all, then you have to use a crown cutter to make a hole for the socket box, and again connect a ≈220V wire coming from the wall or coming down from the ceiling to it. But here it is best to place the socket above the umbrella so that it is possible to disguise not only the socket, but also the power cord and plug.

Check valve on the ventilation grille

Now let's move on to the outside of the hole. There will be a small gap between the pipe and the wall, which is best filled with foam, although if desired, you can plaster it to give rigidity to the channel. In any case, the pipe should not protrude beyond the wall, but if this happens, it can be easily cut with a hacksaw blade. It’s just better to use a non-steel one (it will immediately burst when bent, but a pressed one - it’s a little more expensive, but lasts about twice as long).

As for the ventilation grille on the street side, it can be rectangular, square, round, oval, but it is best if it has a check valve, as shown in the top photo. These are non-adjustable movable blinds that, when at rest, are lowered and cover the grille, therefore, snow or rain, which will be blown by the wind, cannot penetrate inside. But when the exhaust fan starts, the blinds are raised, freeing up the passage for air flow.

Video: Master class on installing a hood in the kitchen

Exhaust ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Drilling the hole and inserting the casing

In fact, installing an exhaust hood is very similar to the same work in the kitchen, but this only concerns the installation of the hole itself through the wall and, perhaps, the power supply ≈220V. As I already said, the diameter of the hole depends on the volume of the room, and the fan power can be calculated using the method described above. Let's say you make an insert from the hundredth pipe, but the hole in the wall will again have to be ø 120 mm, that is, the casing pipe will have a gap from the wall, which will later be filled with foam.

Installing a fan into the wall

Connecting an electric fan can be done in several ways, and one of them is provided by the manufacturer; this is a remote switch in the form of a hanging cord, colloquially referred to as a “lazy guy”. Another way is to connect the fan start to a switch - you turn on the light in the bathroom or toilet, and the fan starts. And finally, the third method, which is often combined with lighting - a microswitch is installed in the door, and when it opens, the circuit closes, but there is one inconvenience - when closed, the circuit opens again and the fan turns off along with the lighting, so I think that this to no avail, although some still install it.

Conclusion

Now you already know how to make a hood in a private house with your own hands. From a technical point of view, the question is not so complicated, especially if an exit through the wall is provided. The most important thing is to have a hammer drill, a tape measure and a level, as well as a good eye. And further. If you are not comfortable with electricity, then ask someone for help in connecting the unit so as not to accidentally burn the engine.

Air exchange plays an important role in ensuring people’s livelihoods, therefore, even at the stage of designing a house, you need to carefully consider how to make hoods in a private house.

A properly installed ventilation system with your own hands will ensure the timely removal of harmful fumes from the interior, cellar and sewerage system.

For fire safety purposes, a hood in a private house must be installed in the boiler room, above the gas stove, as well as in the room and premises where there are fireplaces and speakers.

Installation of boiler hoods and other gas equipment is simple; if you wish, you can do all the work yourself.

For ventilation to work properly, it is necessary to install hoods in the following rooms of a private house: kitchen, boiler room, bathroom, toilet above the stove, basement.

In addition, you need to make a sewer hood.

What types of hoods are there in a private home:

Air exchange system with natural impulse;
Forced air exchange system.

The natural air exchange system of a private house operates due to the draft that occurs between the supply and exhaust openings.

Supply flows enter the house through leaks in building structures, slightly open vents, and supply valves. To remove exhaust air, it is necessary to install an exhaust pipe.

The air duct is installed on the roof of a private house, and its upper end must rise above the level of the ridge by at least 70 cm.

Scheme of a properly made hood for a private house with your own hands:

Air enters the house through living rooms (bedrooms, dining rooms, living rooms);
Air flows are removed through the kitchen, bathroom, and also through the boiler room. In addition, hoods should be in the basement and toilet.

For sewerage and cellars in a private house, you need to make an autonomous hood.

You can easily make a natural one in a private home with your own hands. For this purpose, air ducts made of plastic or metal are used.

The air duct needs to be made under the ceiling or embedded into the wall (as high as possible). In the kitchen, bathroom and toilet, separate air exhaust openings are installed, which are connected to the general system.

In this case, you cannot make horizontally located air ducts, as this will stop the draft.

With forced air exchange, the flows are driven by electric fans. Compared to natural traction, forced traction has many advantages.

Such a system does not depend on weather conditions and time of year. Instead of fans, you can make a monoblock or stacked installation.

Monoblocks are easy to install, feature quiet operation, modest dimensions and relatively low productivity.

Therefore, they are more suitable for small cottages, while in a large private house it is better to have stacked ventilation.

Air exchange in a room with heating equipment

For high-quality combustion of gas, oxygen is required. If there is a shortage of it, the efficiency of the boiler, water heater and other gas equipment decreases.

Thermal energy released is disproportionately less than fuel consumed. In the boiler room and kitchen, carbon monoxide and under-oxidized substances accumulate, which negatively affect human health.

Whereas properly done ventilation in a private house will ensure timely removal of gas in the event of a leak.

Requirements for exhaust hoods in rooms with gas heating equipment in a private home:

The closed combustion chamber of a gas boiler must be equipped with a coaxial channel through which air is supplied to the burner and combustion products are removed;
When installing a boiler with an open combustion chamber, a separate ventilation pipe is required. This is especially true for a private house with a boiler room located in a separate room. In addition, you should ensure a stable flow of air that will ventilate the room (a slightly open window or supply valve);
One chimney pipe is designed for a maximum of 2 pieces of equipment (for example, the chimney can be made close to the boiler and water heater);
A do-it-yourself ventilation exhaust system for a gas boiler or water heater must be absolutely sealed. Even the smallest crack threatens to leak carbon monoxide, which poses a danger to the lives of residents;
The seams in the places where the chimneys are connected must be treated with a sealant with increased heat resistance;
To prevent fire, all exhaust pipes of a boiler, gas stove or water heater must be treated with thermal insulating materials. Where the pipe exits to the roof of a private house, special fire-resistant gaskets are installed;
The air flow exhaust system, located in the kitchen above the gas stove or in the boiler room, should provide an outflow of 1 to 3 total volumes of air. The same air exchange standards are valid for the rooms in which the speakers are located.

To vent a gas boiler or water heater, you need a chimney fan with a check valve (for forced ventilation), a ventilation grille, and a metal or asbestos exhaust pipe.

Under no circumstances should you make a chimney out of plastic due to the low heat resistance of the material.

From the video below you can learn how to do ventilation in a private house with your own hands.

A device with a check valve will prevent carbon monoxide and soot from returning back into the room.

How to make a hood with your own hands in the boiler room of a private house:

Mark a place for the hood in the boiler room (preferably not far from the gas boiler or water heater);
Drill a hole into the wall of the boiler room; you can use a hammer drill for this;
Wrap the channel with fireproof insulating material and insert into the hole;
Install a fan in the chimney and connect power to it (for a forced exhaust system).

The exhaust system for the boiler room is complete.

Air exchange in the kitchen and bathroom

In order to promptly remove carbon dioxide, soot, steam and fat released during the cooking process, you need to install an exhaust hood in the kitchen above the stove.

The width of kitchen hoods varies from 50 to 120 cm. When doing ventilation, remember that the kitchen hood should be 10-15 cm wider than the stove.

The performance of the device depends on the size of the room: according to sanitary standards, the air in the kitchen must be completely changed at least once.

How to make a kitchen hood over the stove with your own hands:

To operate the exhaust hood, a separate outlet is required; it must be located nearby;
Mark the mounting locations, drill holes for screws or dowels;
Attach the hood to the wall. The device should be located above the stove at a distance of 0.7 cm-1 m;
Connect the flexible air duct in the kitchen to the ventilation shaft (through the wall or ceiling);
Connect the device to the network, then test its operation.

It should be borne in mind that when installing a hood for a gas water heater in a private house, you can connect the ventilation duct to the chimney of a fireplace or boiler.

If this is not possible, then installation of a separate pipe with a diameter of at least 12 cm will be required.

A bathroom is a specific room with constantly high humidity.

In the absence of properly organized ventilation, fungus forms on the walls, and as a result, plumbing and finishing materials begin to deteriorate.

According to the method of organization, air exchange in the bathroom and toilet is divided into natural and forced.

When installing natural exhaust in the bathroom and toilet, the ventilation duct is connected to the main pipe.

If it is located too far (on the opposite side of a private house), then it is recommended to make an autonomous air duct.

Forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is arranged by installing exhaust fans.

Only exhaust devices designed to operate in conditions of high humidity are suitable.

Installing a fan in the bathroom and toilet of a private house:

To install a hood in a bathroom or toilet, you need to drill the wall and make a through hole along the diameter of the fan coupling;
Before installing the fan in the bathroom and toilet, supply power and make an outlet in advance. It’s good to do this in advance, before laying the tiles;
Insert the coupling into the hole;
Drill holes in the bathroom wall for mounting;
Remove the front panel from the bathroom fan;
Connect the cable;
Fix the device to the wall using dowels or self-tapping screws;
Replace the front panel and install the ventilation grille on the outside.

Air exchange of the basement and sewerage

When building a private house, attention should be paid to the ventilation of the cellar.

In a basement located at a shallow depth, it is enough to make vents around the entire perimeter of the basement part of the foundation.

To prevent rodents from entering the cellar through them, cover the openings with fine-mesh gratings.

If the height of the walls in the basement is over 2 meters, you need to make a full-fledged exhaust system.

To arrange natural air exchange in the cellar of a private cottage, the following scheme is used:

Two air ducts cut into the ceiling of the cellar (supply and exhaust);
The cellar air ducts lead to the roof of the house;
The supply air duct in the basement also goes to the roof, but its lower part must be lowered to a distance of approximately 50 cm above the floor level in the corner opposite from the exhaust vent. This placement of the channels will ensure normal draft (air will enter the lower part of the cellar, pass through the entire cellar room and be removed through the upper hole);
If you install an exhaust duct in the basement near the chimney pipe, the draft will increase significantly;
To prevent condensation from collecting, all sections of the pipeline located in the attic and above the roof must be wrapped with insulating material.

A more reliable option for private cottages is forced ventilation in the basement. In this case, installation of high channels is not necessary.

Air exchange in the basement will occur due to electric fans installed in the air ducts.

In addition, the cellar channels can be connected to general home forced ventilation. This system is especially convenient if there is a gym in the basement.

When installing an autonomous sewer system, you should protect yourself from the penetration of unpleasant odors into the house.

Keep in mind that the hood will only be effective if all parts of the sewer are completely sealed. Sewage exhaust can be organized using a drain pipe.

To implement this ventilation option, use pipes that are the same as the rest of the sewer system.

Make sure that its end is located as far from the windows as possible.

Otherwise, unpleasant sewer odors will penetrate the house.

The issue of ventilation of premises with the advent of plastic windows has become relevant due to the almost complete sealing of buildings. In cold conditions, this is not so bad, but in an unventilated room, mold, mildew, and pathogenic bacteria grow and it becomes unsuitable for comfortable living.

When building a private house with your own hands, at the design stage you can and should consider how it will be ventilated. After completion of construction work, solving this problem will be difficult, and in some cases impossible.

Types of ventilation

Ventilation is divided into three types:

Natural ventilation

occurs due to the property of warm layers of air to rise above cold ones. It involves laying ventilation ducts in the walls of the house through which air circulates. For a fireplace or stove, the air duct is made separately. The pipe should rise above the ridge, this will give additional traction.

The ventilation duct must be at least one and a half brick thick, and its cross-section must exceed 140 mm in order to avoid the backdraft effect. 100 mm horizontal bends are made into the rooms, using plastic pipes.

The disadvantages of natural ventilation are the dependence on weather conditions - both temperature and pressure, as well as the low performance of the system. Its use makes sense in buildings made of expanded clay concrete, foam concrete, brick and wood, provided the ambient air is clean.

Suitable for small private low-rise houses, baths, saunas, outbuildings. Below is a typical ventilation diagram in a private house.

Forced or supply and exhaust ventilation

It is used in cases where the air needs to be cleaned of odors, dirt and dust particles, as well as in rooms with “non-breathable” walls made of concrete with polystyrene, SIP and 3D panels, sandwich and vacuum panels, in all types of frame houses. Supply ventilation uses a fan to create a pressure difference, a filter for cleaning the air entering the house and a recuperator, a device for heating the incoming flow.

It is recommended to use a different fan for each room in the house. For garages and boiler rooms, it is necessary to make a separate hood to avoid harmful substances from entering other rooms. The most intense ventilation should be in the kitchen, since the air there not only heats up, but also has a characteristic smell.

Mixed ventilation

Used when natural ventilation cannot provide sufficient air flow. As a rule, the hood is installed in rooms where condensation collects, the air is polluted, or where it is necessary to remove the smell - in the bathroom, basement, cellar, toilet, boiler room, as well as in the kitchen.

Usually, with a mixed ventilation device in private houses, only air inflow is forced, and outflow occurs naturally, or only part of the premises is ventilated. The use of a mixed ventilation system in large private wooden brick, foam block and stone houses is also justified.

Sanitary standards

Fresh air consumption per healthy adult is about 10 m3 per hour. If there is no oxygen flow, the well-being of people in the room worsens - drowsiness and headaches appear. This is due to the increased concentration of carbon dioxide in the air.

According to the standards in force since the 50s of the last century, for rooms up to 20 m2 with a ceiling height below 3 meters, the air composition must be completely renewed within an hour, that is, the air exchange rate is at least 20 * 3 = 60 m3 per hour . If the volume of the room exceeds 60 m3, then in a simplified form the air exchange rate is considered to be 3 m3/hour per 1 m3 of room volume. For toilets the norm is 50 m3/hour, for bathrooms 25 m3/hour, and for kitchens 90 m3/hour.

When building private houses, many people think that they will get by with ventilating the windows and do not do ventilation in the hope of saving money. Make no mistake about this - the atmosphere in the building in such cases will be very unhealthy. As a result, the treatment of respiratory diseases may cost significantly more money than what is saved.

In addition, there is such a radioactive inert gas - radon, which accumulates on the first floors of buildings. Also, if ventilation is not carried out regularly, the room will have variable humidity and temperature.

Features of installation in various rooms

When installing ventilation in the kitchen, the following nuances should be taken into account:

the width of the slab and the exhaust dome must correspond to each other;
the air in the kitchen should be completely renewed 6-12 times per hour;
the distance between the stove and the hood should be 60-90 cm.

In the bathroom, it is necessary to take into account the increased humidity in the room and based on this:

there should be no supply openings to prevent steam from flowing from the bathroom into other rooms;
all wiring must be moisture-resistant or corrugated, the contacts must be carefully insulated;
It is recommended to install a gyrostat to automate the operation of exhaust ventilation.

the hole for ventilation is made as high as possible, ideally on the ceiling;
it is advisable to combine the switch for lighting and for the hood so that they turn on simultaneously;
the exhaust power must ensure a system capacity of at least 50 m3 for a separate toilet, and for a bathroom combined with a bathroom - at least 75 m3;
when the ventilation ducts of the toilet and bathroom are located at the same level, they are combined into one air duct.

In basements, both natural and forced ventilation are used. If the basement is small, up to 50 m2, then it is quite possible to get by with natural air circulation.

Criteria for correct ventilation arrangement

air is discharged from the ventilation duct on the roof;
Air intake in the forced system is made through a grille located at a level of 2-3 meters from the ground;
air circulation is carried out from cleaner rooms to dirtier ones - from bedrooms and living rooms towards the kitchen, bathrooms, boiler rooms.
forced ventilation in the kitchen is required, especially where there are gas water heaters;
All rooms in the building must be ventilated;
the air in the house should not cool too quickly, there should be no strong drafts;
Condensation should not form on the walls and ceilings, and odors from the premises should quickly disappear.

Based on the above criteria, a decision is made on the advisability of using forced, mixed or natural ventilation.

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