Craftsmen who often work with certain wooden blanks are faced with the need to plan a large number of boards to give them an attractive appearance. At the same time, it is also necessary to equalize their thickness, make their surface smooth, so that the material can be used for the production of furniture, interior decoration, or for many other similar purposes. A wood planer is best suited for such work.
Now the cost of this type of equipment is quite high, even if it is a small machine for use in a home workshop. As a result, not everyone can make such a purchase. In this case, the right solution would be to make a thickness planer with your own hands according to ready-made drawings. As a result, on a regular workbench you will be able to plan a variety of wooden workpieces quickly and efficiently.
Table and frame of the future machine
Before you start making a surface planer for wood yourself, you should decide on its design and familiarize yourself with the finished drawings (at the end of the article). The entire structure should be located on the work table so that you can walk around it freely to feed the material. This tool can also be used in a home workshop, since its dimensions are quite small.
The main thing is that the surface of the table where it will be located is as smooth as possible to prevent the occurrence of strong vibrations.
To make such equipment for home use, the following design is usually suitable. The work table of the machine and its frame are welded; for this, a metal corner and a square pipe of dimensions 50x50 and 40 millimeters are used, respectively. In principle, when assembling the table and base of the machine, you can use materials not only of these, but also of any other sizes, but it should be remembered that the more massive the elements used, the more stable the equipment will be, and the less vibrations will occur during its operation.
To make a thickness planer for your home workshop, you will need:
- drilling machine;
- lathe;
- welding machine;
- drill;
- Bulgarian.
Knife shaft
The next element, the presence of which is mandatory in a thickness planer, is the knife shaft. This is the main part of the machine, which processes wooden blanks. The best option is to buy a ready-made design with axle boxes, since homemade shafts are very difficult to make well balanced. A suitable option would be to use a three hundred millimeter shaft, the design of which has three knives. It is best to choose stepped pulleys for the shaft and engine; as for the shaft speed, the best option would be 4000-7000 revolutions per minute.
To operate such a shaft, an asynchronous motor with a power of 4-5 kW is suitable. An important advantage of this choice is the fact that having made a machine with such a motor, it can be started from a single-phase electric current, which significantly reduces the costs and complexity of using the equipment.
It is best to grind the pressure rollers yourself; it is also a good option to use ready-made parts from old Soviet-style washing machines. The roller frame must be welded with spring-loaded bolts.
Adjustment bolts and workpiece feeding
According to the drawing used, the table for installing the thickness planer must be installed on adjusting bolts, which will make it possible to adjust it if necessary. To adjust the table plane as accurately as possible, and also to prevent the need to adjust each bolt individually, bicycle sprockets can be welded to them, connecting them with a chain. Springs can be taken from valves from any truck engine.
In the drawing used, the workpieces are fed manually. But there is always the opportunity to improve the design by equipping the machine table with an automatic workpiece feeding system. In this case, the workpiece will be fed very smoothly into the machine, which will ensure accurate removal of the required layer of wood during planing.
In addition, it would be useful to use special rollers that will press the workpiece to the working surface during its processing. It is very difficult to do this manually efficiently, while rollers cope with this task “excellently”.
This completes the assembly of the thickness planer. To prevent the formation of corrosion and fungi, it is recommended to paint all metal parts of such homemade equipment. There is no need to paint only the lower working part of the tool, which will process the material.
Preparing the machine for operation
Regardless of which thicknesser is used - homemade or factory-made, before carrying out any work it must be configured for operation. Not only the quality of the work performed, but also the safety of the worker who uses such equipment when processing wooden workpieces will directly depend on this.
In addition, when preparing for work, it must be remembered that if the table is significantly filled, if it is necessary to simultaneously feed several parts across the entire width of the table, in the process of planing a large-width panel or similar work, the pressure in the feed rollers must be adjusted so that it is increased, since in such cases of work the cutting resistance increases significantly. If parts of small width are being processed or the table is not completely filled, in order to prevent the wood from being crushed during processing, the pressure in the rollers should be reduced to the required level.
Safe operation of the machine
Before each start of work on the machine, it is necessary to carefully check the correct position of the knives, as well as their level of sharpening. The knife shaft must always be guarded. On a homemade thicknessing machine, you cannot process parts whose length is less than the distance between the shafts.
To prevent the possibility of injury, it is strictly forbidden to repair, adjust or clean the machine, as well as clean the workbench with the machine while it is in operation.
It is necessary to feed wood blanks onto the work table and into the machine itself end to end, and it is necessary to use the entire width of the table.
In one evening you can turn several scraps into a neat and convenient thicknesser that is very easy to use.
It is difficult to find another marking tool that can be used to produce clear lines with consistent accuracy. A thicknesser that has been tested for centuries, consisting of a rod, a movable block, which is fixed with a small wedge, and a needle, called a scraper, is very quickly adjusted. How to use this tool is described in the “” section.
When making such a thicknesser, first make a rod by cutting a wooden block to the points indicated on picture below sizes. To make the top edge convex, attach a rounding cutter with a radius of 13 mm to the collet of a router installed in the table and make partial roundings using only part of the cutter profile. Then drill a hole at one end of the rod for a scratch, which can be made from a thin nail. To do this, insert a nail into the hole so that its point protrudes from below by about 3 mm, and remove the head, leaving about 3 mm on top as well. Using a fine-notched file or needle file, sharpen both ends of the scratch.
To make a wedge, glue the contour template onto a 16-mm board (the direction of the fibers should be longitudinal, and a piece with a large allowance will ensure safety when forming the wedge). Using a band saw, cut out the wedge along the contour and sand it smooth so that it slides easily in the gap between the block and the rod.
To make the block, first cut it along the contour using the glued template. Then drill a through hole with a diameter of 19 mm at the indicated location. Using a chisel, flat and semicircular files, process the hole, giving it a shape in accordance with the sections of the rod and wedge. Note that one edge of the hole is beveled at an angle. Check the result often by inserting a wedge and a rod into the hole.
To protect the wood, apply a couple coats of an oil-based finish.
Marking with a thicknesser
For marking joints or cuts, there is nothing better than a simple but neat surface planer. To introduce you to the techniques, we consulted the famous master Frank Klaus. He showed how you can get the most out of this simple marking tool.
How is a surface planer useful?
Using a thicknesser, you can mark lines parallel to the edge of the part, both along and across the grain. One of the advantages of a surface planer over a pencil is the presence of a scratching needle, which Frank sharpens in the form of an oblique knife, leaving very thin but clear indelible lines, and cuts wood fibers, preventing the appearance of chips when working with a chisel and sawing. Here are some examples of using a surface planer:
■ marking the middle of the board for unraveling;
■ marking the edge of the jointing board;
■ marking connections, such as dovetails or tenons with a socket.
Planer design
A simple thicknesser consists of four parts: a rod 200-300 mm long, a block, a clamp and a scratching needle (Fig. 1). The block moves along the rod, which allows you to change the distance from it to the scratch, and its position is fixed using a screw or wedge clamp. In some thicknessers, the scratch needle is removed if sharpening or replacement is needed. The rod may have a measuring scale, with which you can adjust the thicknesser to the required size without resorting to measurements.
One of the varieties is the so-called nesting thicknesser (photo below)- has one scratching needle for regular marking of parallel lines and an additional pair of needles on the opposite side of the rod for marking nests. One of these needles is fixed stationary, and the other moves along the bar to adjust the width of the socket.
Precision at the tip of the needle
To ensure the thicknesser works correctly, Frank explains, focus on the smallest scratch part. Make sure it has the correct shape, reach and is installed at the correct angle.
- Form. Often new scratching needles have a tapered point that tears wood fibers rather than cutting them. Sharpen the tip of the scraper on both sides to obtain a sharp cutting edge (Fig. 1a).
- Departure. For better control, install the scraper with minimal protrusion from the rod (about 1.5 mm).
- Corner. Since the thicknesser is usually guided along the edge of the board towards you, set the cutting edge of the needle at an angle of about 5° relative to the block (Fig. 1b). Then the scratch when marking will automatically press the block to the edge of the board.
- Since the block follows the edges of the board, for accurate marking it is necessary that they are straight and smooth.
- After fixing the block, check the adjustment and make sure there is no shift. Get in the habit of always making a test mark on your trim to check for accuracy.
- Lightly press the block flat against the edge of the board and monitor its position. Rotate the bar to tilt the scraper slightly forward (photo above), and then draw a line with a light, continuous motion.
No one has canceled hand tools in a carpentry workshop, and one of the important tools is a marking thicknesser. The thing is reliable and practical. It is clear that now you can easily buy any instrument, but this is not always profitable when you are balancing between price and quality. It is quite possible to make a surface planer in your workshop.
Here are 8 options for different surface planers as a source of ideas for flights of fancy and gaining experience:
Marking thicknesser from Yuri Raevsky
Made from elm scraps. As the author writes, it turned out to be easy to do with your own hands. A brass screw with a mortise nut is used to secure the block. To prevent jams from the screw, a brass plate is made on the rod, which is fixed in the eye of the block. A jigsaw file was used as a marking tool. Finish: teak oil.
Video from Yuri Raevsky's channel
Manufacturing of marking thicknesser from Mikhail Rebitator
The body (block) of the thicknesser is made of oak, the slats are made of walnut. For clamping, a duralumin washer with a furniture bolt and a wing is used. All this is from what was found in the workshop, i.e. was not purchased specifically.
Video from the “HeARTwood” channel
Curvilinear manual surface planer from “Voxa 54”
The design of this surface planer is radically different from the classic one. This thicknesser allows marking on curved surfaces by replacing the support block with a bearing. A pencil is used here as a marking organ.
Video from the channel “Voxa 54”
The original version with a clamp as a clamp
Refinement with ruler and pencil slider
Carpenter's thicknessing compass for marking workpieces from “Drevo Woodwork”
In this case, it is proposed to improve the curved marking thicknesser described above in such a way that it can also be used as a compass.
Video from the channel “Tree Woodwork”
Homemade marking thicknesser from Sergei Petreev
The marking thicknesser made of ash is made close to classical technology with a neat and beautiful finish.
Video from the channel “WORKS OF MASTERS”
How to make a marking thicknesser in 5 minutes from Sergey Sergeich
A quick option, for when you need it “right now.” Of course, it will not last for decades, but to solve current problems, this option can be considered.
Video from the channel “Sergey Sergeich”
Thicknesser made of metal parts from Ilya Gonchar
An example of making a marking thicknesser entirely from metal. The marking knife was machined from a valve from a diesel locomotive engine; the supporting “platform” was made of a bronze plug. A guide from an old printer was used as a rod.
Video from Ilya Gonchar's channel
Homemade marking thicknesser based on a railing pipe from “AlfFisher”
As it turns out, it is very convenient to use a rail tube for the thicknesser rod. Due to the nickel plating, it slides well in the groove of the carriage. On the other hand, it is convenient to mount clamping screws for knives or pencils.
Video from AlfFisher channel
Part 1: Design of a thicknesser based on a railing pipe
Part 2: Additional functionality of a thicknesser based on a railing pipe
Thicknessing machines for wood are a type of planer and planer, and are designed for the precise production of “to-size” boards with a certain cross-section. Unlike planing woodworking equipment, such units are equipped with clamping and feeding devices, and can also process several workpieces simultaneously. The versatility of modern thicknessing machines increases if the tool kit includes not only flat, but also shaped knives.
Classification and capabilities
The design of the units in question can be quite varied. Machines are classified according to the following criteria:
- By drive type. Homemade mini-devices can also have a manual drive, but in most cases they still use an electric drive. At the same time, household models are equipped with a 220 V motor, and professional ones – with a 380 V motor.
- By type of delivery. The machine design may have one or two pairs of feed rollers; accordingly, in the first case, it will be necessary to make the pressure of the workpiece being processed to the table more powerful; vibrations at the time of cutting cannot be excluded. Double-sided roller feeds are more advanced and convenient to use. A number of foreign companies (Makita, DeWalt, etc.) equip their products with automatic feed units, but this option is justified only with significant production programs of the same type of products.
- According to the number of knife shafts. This determines how many different profiles the machine can process simultaneously. True, the number of operators will increase accordingly.
- By functionality. The design of thicknessing machines allows not only dimensional processing of a semi-finished product, but also its subsequent calibration. This eliminates the appearance of transverse chips, dents and other defects that may appear on the treated surface in case of non-compliance with the jointing technology or with an excessively large supply of starting material.
- According to its technological characteristics. In practice, the equipment under consideration is produced with a power range of 1...40 kW, at a shaft speed of up to 10000...12000 rpm, planing width up to 1350 mm, stroke up to 50 m/min and thickness of the initial workpiece 5...160 mm.
In addition, some models differ in the way they adjust the gaps and the design of the main drive bearing assembly.
Device and principle of operation
A typical wood planer can successfully replace two pieces of equipment: a mechanical drive jointer and a planer (transverse for short products, or longitudinal for long ones).
The simplest layout of a thicknessing machine (with one-sided supply of source material) includes the following components:
- Drive motor.
- Transfer. It can be a standard V-belt, toothed, with a variator, as well as with replaceable pulleys (the latter option has minimal values of transmitted power, and therefore is used only in low-power equipment).
- Knife shaft. May have multiple instruments with different configurations. Spiral knives are considered particularly successful because they produce minimal noise during operation.
- the upper direction unit, which, in turn, consists of a pair of rollers - front and rear. The front roller has a corrugated surface: in order to improve traction with wood and prevent a possible change in the direction of movement of the board being processed. The rear roller is always smooth;
- a clamping unit that prevents jamming of chips and possible cracking of the material. Structurally, the clamp can be made in the form of claw grips that penetrate into the wood, or it can also be made in the form of a massive metal element equipped with spring-loaded teeth;
- a lower direction unit, facilitating the feeding of the workpiece into the workspace;
- a table with devices for adjusting the technological gaps between the rollers of the upper and lower clamps;
- the bed on which all other elements of the working circuit of the machine are located.
Units with a double-sided feeding device are distinguished by the fact that they are equipped with an additional unit for extending the knife shaft. In this regard, replacing a tool to reinstall it from one standard size to another (or for subsequent sharpening) is much easier.
This is how a thickness planer works. The torque from the electric motor is transmitted through gears to the blade shaft. The board to be processed is inserted into the gap and pressed first against the lower and then against the upper pressure rollers. In this case, the workpiece is captured by a grooved roller and fed to the tool. Before cutting, the semi-finished product is clamped between the upper and lower guide devices, which ensures reliable fixation of the material during processing. The clamping device ensures timely removal of chips from under the rotating tool. At the moment the workpiece leaves the rear guide roller, the next product is inserted into the front one, after which the process is repeated.
Homemade thickness planer in your own workshop: choosing parameters
There is a significant number of different models of the equipment in question on the market, both from domestic manufacturers (Corvette, Enkor, Krasny Metalist, etc.) and imported ones. The latter options are dominated by dubious Chinese brands, which are not reliable in operation, and, in addition, often have underestimated parameters compared to the passport ones. In such cases, and also if the proposed machines do not fit into the available space dimensions, it makes sense to make a surface planer with your own hands.
It’s worth noting right away that it’s better to purchase a number of components and parts rather than try to make them yourself. This, first of all, concerns the knife shaft itself along with the mounting bearings: home-made options will not differ in the required mating accuracy, as a result of which the part will overheat greatly under load.
When choosing a machine diagram, they are guided by the available drawings (can be found on the Internet), but before that it is worth clarifying a number of elements of the device. For example, if in one unit there is a need to combine a jointer and a surface planer, then it is advisable to make equipment with a double-sided drive. Then, on one side of the device, it is possible to carry out preliminary cutting of the workpiece, and on the other hand, to carry out the final processing of the wood “to size”.
You also need to decide on the longest length of the knife shaft: a homemade machine with a shaft longer than 500 mm may lose rigidity when working on hard types of wood: pear, hornbeam, oak. As a result, wavy ridges up to 1 mm high may appear on the surface of the board, which will require further processing of the semi-finished product. The landing dimensions and diameter must be made such that home-made equipment can be used to produce plinth, baguette profiles, as well as other decorative elements made of wood.
When choosing a design, safety measures for subsequent operation of the unit should be fully taken into account. Homemade thicknessing machine Do-it-yourself machines must have a reliable fence for the working area of the table, and also eliminate the possibility of the board going backwards if the gap is too large, as well as its destruction during processing.
When analyzing the available drawings of home-made devices, it is worth keeping in mind that the presence of two lower clamps in the table will reduce the force of moving the board into the workspace, since the workpiece will move along the smooth surface of the roll, and not along the table.
Manufacturing and assembly
The manufacture of the machine begins with the bed. For these purposes, it is advisable to use tubular steel with a cross section of at least 60×40 mm: the pipe has increased rigidity and moment of resistance, which will have a positive effect on the accuracy of operations performed on a homemade unit. Structural elements are connected by welding. It can be replaced with a prefabricated version, but it is less preferable - assembling the table and frame using an angle and connecting pins with a diameter of M30 or more will force you to frequently check their tightness.
For feed rollers, you can use rollers from an old washing machine: their rubberized surface will cope with the tasks. The rollers are bored to the diameter of the existing bearings, taking into account the required adjustment range. In homemade thicknessing machines, this process can be done manually by rotating the handle.
To make a table for a homemade unit, a wide sanded board made of larch or oak is suitable. Wood dampens vibrations well, but to increase anti-corrosion performance, and from a fire safety point of view, it should be impregnated with fire-resistant compounds or creosote. The connection between the table and the frame can be bolted.
When selecting a motor, the maximum required torque must be matched to the processing needs. As a rule, an electric motor with a power of 5...6 kW, with a speed of up to 3500...4000 per minute, is sufficient.
To ensure safety, a homemade machine must be protected by a removable casing. It can be made from thin sheet steel (0.6...0.8 mm thick).
The necessary components - bearings, knives, pulleys, fasteners - are selected in accordance with the specifications for the drawings of a homemade thickness planer.
When assembling a homemade machine, you must:
- ensure maximum flatness of the table surface;
- balance all rotating parts in static and dynamic modes;
- provide convenient adjustment of the table position;
- check the reliability of the fencing device for moving elements.
A homemade thickness planer is checked at idle speed. If all components are working correctly, check the unit in operating mode, after which all fixed parts are painted with weather-resistant paint.
However, it allows the master to significantly expand his capabilities, since he allows him to process workpieces, giving them a given thickness. In this article we will tell you how to quickly and easily make such a machine using a drill.
Introduction
The designs of thicknessing devices can be very different, but they are united by the main principle and purpose of the machine itself - leveling the workpiece in thickness. For example, if a sawn solid wood or sheet wood board has different thicknesses or any surface defects, then using a surface planer you can level them out.
Based on the principle of wood processing, two main types can be distinguished:
- cutting;
- grinding.
The design of cutting thicknessing machines uses a shaft with several knives, which, when rotated, cuts off a layer of wood, and grinding machines use shafts with an abrasive coating (material), which, accordingly, grind the surface of the workpiece to a given thickness. In this article we will analyze one of the design options for a homemade grinding-thicknesser machine; step-by-step instructions for manufacturing such a machine will be described, accompanied by a description, comments, and photos. Making a thicknessing machine with your own hands using the video posted at the end of the article will greatly simplify your understanding of the sequence of actions and manufacturing technology. In addition, at the end there will be drawings of a homemade thickness planer.
Original idea
The essence of the original idea is that the described machine will be made on the basis. In addition, on the basis of this, you can build other devices: grinding machines. Their description is presented in the following articles:
These articles, like this one, detail the entire sequence of their creation and technological operations, and include photo and video materials. The fact that you can make some kind of universal base and, as necessary, give it the desired functionality, replacing only some elements, while getting a set of machines: thicknesser and grinding machines, makes this idea very valuable.
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This solution is convenient, universal and unified.
Preparing for work
As always, the preparatory stage is very important, since it is before starting work that you need to be completely familiar with all technological operations and plan the sequence of your actions. It is important that it does not happen that at some point it turns out that the necessary material and tools are missing, therefore all the material in the article is disclosed in detail, each technological operation is described and information and reference materials are attached (photos, videos, tables, etc.).
Tools
To make a thicknessing machine with your own hands, you should have the following tools at your disposal:
- or .
- Angle grinder (angle grinder or simply “grinder”).
- Drill or .
- Additional hand tools: hammer, clamps, square, screwdriver, marking pencil, etc.
Materials and fasteners used
To make the described homemade thicknessing machine, you need to prepare the following materials and fasteners:
- Plywood 15 mm thick.
- Pine massif;
- Wing nut;
- Fastening: M6 bolt, self-tapping screws of various lengths.
Main structural elements
The design is homemade or consists of parts:
- Base:
- Frame;
- Spindle box;
- Bed with movable table;
- Grinding shaft;
- Drill (or);
Making a thicknesser with your own hands
To reflect the entire technology for creating a homemade thickness planer, we will divide the entire process into a set of sequential technological operations for creating the main parts and their further assembly.
Base (Frame and spindle box) of the machine
It was said above that these structural elements will be used from those previously described, so we will not repeat them with a detailed description.
Therefore, we believe that the frame and spindle box have already been made and look like this.
Bed with movable table of thickness planer
To make the sides of the bed, you need to take two 15mm thick blanks measuring 120 x 160 mm and give them the shape of an equilateral trapezoid.
Next, we drill through holes for the shaft axis. It is important to note that when drilling, you need to place the workpieces in the design position - the way they will stand during work. And since we use the future base and frame as our base, the required centers of the holes can be easily determined. To do this, we simply fix the workpieces using a clamp.
Then these same holes need to be drilled out or in order (but not through!!!) to make seats for the bearings.
Now let's start making the base of the bed. It is load-bearing, so it needs to be made strong and strong. To do this, we glue two blanks measuring 230 x 200 mm together and install the finished sidewalls to the resulting base. We fasten with wood glue and self-tapping screws.
Next, you need to make a movable table on which the workpiece should slide. The table is made movable (lifting) so that the distance between it and the rotating shaft can be adjusted. This distance will determine the thickness of the workpiece being processed. To make a table, just like when making the base of the bed, you need to take a workpiece measuring 230 x 200 mm, but only it can be made single-layer.
To ensure its lifting, you need to make two holes in the corners and install wing nuts in them, having previously countersunk them or to recess them “flush”.
And install the wing nuts.
The fastening of the table to the frame of the thicknessing machine must be movable, so we make the connection on a hinge, although the best option would be to mount it on one, but on two hinges for greater structural strength (or use one piano (long) hinge).
The bed of our homemade thickness planer must be securely attached to the frame using a special guide. The guide has dimensions of 330 x 30 x 40 mm. It is attached to the frame with glue and additionally pressed with self-tapping screws.
Thicknesser grinding shaft
The grinding shaft is made of several layers. To do this, you need to cut out (or in common parlance with a “crown”) 7 blanks in the shape of a circle with a diameter of 85 mm.
Next, they all need to be glued together to form the grinding drum of a thickness planer. An M10 pin with a length of 290 mm will be used as the drum axis. Therefore, in order to tightly fix all the workpieces, they can be assembled directly on the future axis. To do this, you need to press wing nuts onto the outer blanks.
Then we screw on the first blank, lubricate the surface with wood glue, put on another blank and then with all the blanks we assemble a pyramid, like in childhood, stringing rings onto a pin.
Now it is necessary to grind the future drum to give it precise geometry - the same diameter along its entire length, and also to get rid of rough drilling defects. To do this, install the drum into the bearing seats of the side frames of the frame. In this case, it is necessary to install two locked nuts on the axle on each side of the drum to fix it between the bearings to prevent lateral displacement.
It is important to control the diameter of the shaft so that it does not become tapered, and the evenness of the surface itself is also important, otherwise the future workpiece may have flaws. After grooving the shaft, you need to make a small modification to it so that you can attach sandpaper (sandpaper) there. To do this, you need to make a longitudinal groove on a circular saw.
The shaft groove must be drilled long at both ends so that the sandpaper can then be secured with a screw or self-tapping screw.
To make the fit as tight as possible, you can wrap the shaft with tape or put on several dozen rubber bands. Then we screw screws or self-tapping screws into the holes previously drilled in the groove. In this case, the screw-in screw will securely fix the sandpaper to the shaft.
Assembling a homemade thickness planer
Now we have made all the necessary structural elements for the final assembly of our thickness planer. It is necessary to install the grinding shaft in the support bearings, install the drill, clamp the shaft axis into the drill chuck and the machine is ready. Adjustment of the thickness of the processed header occurs by rotating the adjusting screws, which understand and lower the movable table.
Conclusion
Bottom line
We completed all the operations and made a real thicknesser grinding machine from a drill with our own hands. This article contains all the necessary photos of technological operations and drawings of a thickness planer that will help you easily make yourself a real assistant in the workshop.
Overall dimensions of the machine
Here is a table with the overall dimensions of a thicknessing machine made with your own hands from a drill:
Drawings of thicknessing machine blanks
Below we indicate drawings of the parts that are needed for the manufacture of the machine.
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