What can you plant after strawberries? The best precursor crops for strawberries. Together is better

Growing strawberries doesn't require much care to get a good harvest. Early strawberries are grown in greenhouses, but berries picked with your own hands are much tastier and more aromatic. Effective berry picking depends on many conditions, one of which is proper planting and care. You also need to know when you can plant strawberries, and after which vegetables. This is very important, since the rich harvest of this delicious berry directly depends on its location.

The crops that grew in the strawberry plot mean a lot. The conscious choice of the predecessor allows you to use less fertilizer and, to some extent, protects against harmful insects and diseases.

Correct landing place

Before planting strawberries (garden strawberries), you need to decide on their correct placement. The best option is to plant it in the southwest. It is preferable to choose sandy or loamy soil. The berry also bears fruit well in black soil. Bright sunlight with no draft wind provokes rapid ripening of berries, and bushes planted in a dark place or lowlands produce tasteless, small fruits.

4 years after planting garden strawberries on a certain piece of land, its fertile properties are depleted, which leads to low yields. If one crop does not change its location for a very long time, various harmful bacteria accumulate in the soil. Therefore, you need to move the garden strawberry bushes to another area and plant the right plants in this place, which in the future will have a beneficial effect on the growth, development and quality of the berries.

Correct crop rotation

In addition to comprehensive care of cultivated plants, professionals attach great importance to crop rotation. After all, constant planting of the same vegetable or berries in one area reduces their yield.

Any plant produces toxic substances during growth. Over time, they accumulate in the soil, poisoning it and negatively affecting future cultivation.

Harmful substances increasingly lead to a decrease in yield every year.

The beneficial substances in the soil are depleted, each individual crop sucks everything it needs from it.

It is not recommended to plant vegetable crops belonging to the same type for 2-4 years in one place.
The planting site should be changed every 5 years.
It is necessary to know what minerals were used by predecessors.
Sow a certain plot of land with green manure to enrich and restore the soil.

After what crops should strawberries be planted?

Good precursor plants for the site chosen for planting strawberries are:

Green manure

It is advisable to plant the beds allocated for strawberry bushes with green manure a year earlier. These plants fertilize the soil, saturate it with organic matter, and get rid of harmful microorganisms.
Using rapeseed fills the soil with phosphorus and organic matter.
The use of white mustard inhibits late blight and enriches the soil with humus.
Using lupine fills the soil with nitrogen.
The use of buckwheat saturates the soil with phosphorus.
The use of marigolds, oats and calendula gets rid of the nematode.

The grown green manure is mowed several times, but is not removed from the garden. They are deliberately left on the ground so that after decomposition they can turn into humus, enriching the soil with nutrients. The best results can be achieved if you plant green manure in the spring. Then the soil is cultivated, dug in, and a new crop is planted in the fall.

If it is impossible to do this, then green manure is sown after the potato harvest in order to mow the tops several times before planting the strawberry bushes. If you want to quickly restore the soil, old strawberries are dug up and the ground is sown with fast-growing green manure.

Precursors of strawberries during planting

When it is not possible to plant green manure or simply leave the land without plants, then you need to know after which plants garden strawberries are planted.

The entire legume family (beans, beans, peas). They saturate the soil with nitrogen very effectively. They do not deplete the soil.
Greens (dill, spinach, celery, parsley). These crops do not stay in the garden for long, as they have a short ripening period.
Onion garlic. You can plant strawberries after onions, but if there are no other options. It is better to leave bare soil for the winter, planting the plant in the spring.
Radishes, carrots, corn. These vegetables are very unpretentious to the soil. Such predecessors guarantee the absence of negative and harmful factors on the site.

Inappropriate predecessors

There are agricultural crops after which strawberries cannot be planted. Many vegetables draw a lot of nutrients from the soil, so they are not advisable for planting strawberry bushes.

You cannot plant strawberries after potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants. They have common pests.
Raspberry bushes. They are difficult to uproot, which leads to constant struggle with young growth and negatively affects the development of strawberry beds. Weevil pests, which are so fond of raspberries and strawberries, also plague these crops, so it is not recommended to plant them next to each other.
Sunflowers and Jerusalem artichokes strongly suck out all the useful elements from the soil, so it is recommended to sow green manure in their place. And the next year strawberries are already planted.
It is not recommended to plant berries in place of cucumbers, cabbage or zucchini.
Ranunculaceae plants are also not very good for strawberries. They produce substances that lead to harmful effects and poor plant growth.
Fennel does not like any plant near it, which leads to their death.

The best friends for strawberries are green manure, after which it gives a rich harvest. But since it is not always possible to plant them, there are other friendly plants that will not interfere with its development and good growth. The main thing is to know who is friendly towards her and who is belligerent.

The strawberry bed has been used for several years, but there comes a time when it needs to be changed to another crop, and then the question becomes relevant: “What can be planted after the strawberries next year?”

Why change strawberries?

Strawberries of any variety sooner or later degenerate and require “moving” to a new place.

If you carefully monitor the strawberry crop, you will notice that the garden produces the greatest yield in the second year after planting. In the third year, the yield decreases, and pathogens increase.

It would seem that the gardener is doing everything to keep the crop in optimal conditions, but even if there are enough nutrients, it is impossible to get rid of colins - root secretions, and accompanying microorganisms without removing the main plant.

Nutrient absorption does not have such a strong impact on the need to change culture if ongoing. However, with age, the rhizome “crawls out”, becomes two-story, and only small, tender lower roots remain for nutrition. Such a root system cannot provide the plant with nutrients, even if they are present in the soil.

Principles of crop selection

If the strawberry plantation is located near a recreation area or flower garden, then, most likely, it would be inappropriate to plant a vegetable garden there.

Crop rotation scheme involving garden strawberries.

Although, beautifully arranged beds with vegetables, which will be harvested in late autumn, may well be a worthy alternative.

If the site is remote and is part of a vegetable garden, then the choice should be made on those crops that can easily develop the lower layers of the soil. The arguments in favor of such cultures are as follows:

Strawberries do not have a deep root system at all. . The myth that it depletes the soil is completely baseless. When fertilizing, especially “quick”, with highly soluble minerals, the nutrients quickly penetrate deep into the soil, so that strawberries do not always have time to use them up. If, in the first year of fruiting, it masters 15–20 cm, then aging and “bulging out” no more than 10 cm. Consequently, the nutrients of the deep layers of soil, throughout the entire time the bed was occupied by strawberries, were not in demand;
Second aspect. Proper feeding of strawberries does not require too much nitrogen fertilizers , otherwise the crop will “fatten”, but the soil will be “fed” in full with potassium and phosphorus.

By planting crops that penetrate deeply into the soil with their root system, you can “pull out” from the deep layers those nutrients that were not required by the predecessor strawberry.

Sowing methods after strawberries

In the garden bed after the strawberries, you can make a kind of compost heap, filling it with various plant materials.

Having collected the remains of the harvest in July and decided that crop rotation is needed, you can go in several ways, and all of them will be correct.

Composting an old strawberry plantation . Fans of organic farming recommend putting away organic residues: (weeds, straw, leaves, kitchen waste), and then everything is thoroughly watered and covered with black non-woven material. Under it, optimal temperature and humidity are created, organic matter begins to decompose, along with strawberry rhizomes, and nutritious compost is formed. To speed up the process, you can add a solution of a biological product with soil microorganisms like “ Baikal" Such material is removed in the spring. The parts that are not rotten are removed, and the area is dug up and the main crop is sown.
After digging, you can leave the bed without crops, and with the onset of spring, start cultivating crops.

If the soil needs to be improved

There are some green manure crops that provide good soil health from viruses, microscopic fungi, etc.

White mustard does an excellent job of improving soil health after strawberries.

The main such culture is. This plant is an excellent phyto-nurse. In addition, it can be sown immediately after digging the beds in July or August. By autumn, the mustard will give a good green mass and may go under the snow.

In winter, the crop will retain snow, and in the spring it will be dug up and the main crops will be sown.

Let's sow legumes

Since there is not a lot of nitrogen in the soil under strawberries, by sowing legumes you can significantly enrich the soil with the help of their nodule bacteria.

Phosphorus and potassium, which are in the soil, will allow you to get a good harvest of legumes, and they, in turn, will provide the following crops with nitrogen.

Beans, peas, broad beans They are sown very early in the spring, and the fact that the bed can be prepared in the fall makes the sowing of these crops very successful.

Melons after strawberries

If the garden bed was poorly maintained and contained a lot of weeds, then sowing zucchini and pumpkin in the spring is the best option.

Gardeners often plant watermelons after strawberries.

These crops will cover the soil with their foliage and will not allow emerging weeds to rise. Thus, already in the first season the area can be significantly cleaned.

Some people practice covering the garden bed with compost with black film in the summer, and in the spring, without removing it, make holes and sow pumpkin, zucchini, and squash seeds in them.

Let's plant cabbage

If the strawberries were grown correctly and the correct fertilizing was carried out, then you can plant cabbage plants.

Cabbage rhizomes are quite powerful. They will happily absorb potassium and phosphorus from deeper layers, but with nitrogen they need help with fertilizing. If strawberries were sprayed with boron fertilizer, then cabbage will also produce good yields.

Both cauliflower and white cabbage would be appropriate.

Root vegetables after strawberries

Reviews from vegetable growers say that carrots work well after strawberries. This crop requires potassium and phosphorus, which are more than enough in the strawberry bed.

To increase the nitrogen content, before sowing carrots and beets, you need to take care of adding humus or high-quality compost in the fall.

If there is a problem with organic matter, you can use dry, granular chicken manure or use liquid fertilizers.

So that the bed does not “walk”

As a rule, an experienced gardener and vegetable grower uses every centimeter of land and “truancy” is not allowed.

As soon as the last berries are harvested, you can dig up the strawberry bed, scatter ripened humus or compost on top, and at the end of August sow crops such as spinach and radishes. In 30–40 days everything will be ready to prepare the autumn salad.

Next comes the turn of garlic. At the beginning of October, the bed is dug up, humus and compost are added and planted with winter garlic. Planting garlic can only be done if the strawberries are not affected by the nematode; otherwise, onion crops are contraindicated.

If there was no nematode on the strawberries, feel free to plant spring garlic in its place.

What not to plant after strawberries!

Strawberries can be affected by diseases such as verticillium wilt and fusarium. Even if the strawberry bed was healthy, you should not plant crops that are also affected by these pathogens.

Such crops include:

tomato;
potato;
eggplant;
pepper.

Of the pests, nightshades and strawberries have a common insect that equally loves these crops - potato scoop .

cucumbers

After strawberries, you can grow cucumbers if you dig the soil thoroughly.

You can place the cucumber separately.

Although it has pests (except for, but this applies to greenhouse crops), its root system is as superficial as that of strawberries. With good digging of the soil and pre-sowing treatment, this crop can be successfully grown.

Lavender

If your garden bed has been visited by the pest slobbering pennies, then you should not plant lavender after strawberries.

Bulbous colors

If the strawberry has been affected by the onion nematode, then it is also impossible to plant bulbous flowers (tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, lilies, gladioli), as well as onions and garlic.

conclusions

After considering all the options, you can easily choose the most suitable one for your conditions. When planning a long-term crop rotation, you need to take into account that strawberries can only be returned to their original place after 3-4 years.

Video about crop rotation in the garden

In order for the vegetables and fruits that we grow in the country to please us with the quality of the harvest, it is necessary to use crop rotation wisely. By observing the correct order of planting crops, summer residents thereby make the most of the usable area of the plot and protect the land from depletion. Let's talk about everyone's favorite strawberries. How do these rules apply to her?

Sandy and loamy soils, as well as black soil, are most suitable for growing strawberries. The preferred soil acidity indicator is 4.5-5.5 pH. The soil must have good water and air permeability and high fertility. Strawberries grow poorly in depleted calcareous and saline soils. Before planting berries, organic and mineral fertilizers must be applied to the ground. If the soil on the site is unsuitable, it can be improved:

Clay or sapropel must be added to sandy soil. Additives will add viscosity so that the soil can retain moisture and fertilizers.
If the area is clayey, on the contrary, add sand. This is necessary to make the soil looser. Clay soil also needs liming, but lime is applied 3 years before planting strawberries.
Alkaline and swampy soils are absolutely not suitable for growing strawberries, as they require radical improvement.

Soil preparation begins at the end of the previous season. To enrich with organic matter, humus or compost is used. Fertilizer is applied while digging the area to a depth of 30 cm. Additional superphosphate (35 g) and potassium chloride (20 g) are used. One square meter requires 6 kg of organic fertilizers. Before planting, a handful of humus or compost is again placed in the hole, and after planting, the soil is mulched with peat or rotted manure.

On a note! To increase soil fertility, green manure plants can be sown as a precursor in the fall, which at the same time improve the soil structure.

The crop also needs to be fed regularly during cultivation. To get rid of pathogens of fungal diseases, before planting, the holes are spilled with a solution of nitrophen or iron sulfate. To prevent gray spotting, the soil is treated with a solution of calcium chloride.

It is not profitable for a gardener to violate the rules of crop rotation; this will not have the best effect on the yield and quality of fruits. If you do not change the crops on the plot, but plant the same vegetables and berries from year to year, this will lead to negative consequences:

a surge in diseases;
depletion of the earth;
accumulation of pests and their larvae in the soil.

Experts say that if proper crop rotation is observed, crop yields increase by 30%. It is permissible to grow strawberries in the same place for 3-4 years, after which it is necessary to give the bed to a new crop.

To restore the soil

The berry can be a good precursor for all legumes (beans, peas, lentils, beans). These plants do not need nitrogen, which strawberries completely extract from the soil. They absorb oxygen from the above-ground part and then transfer it to the root system. Legumes remarkably enrich the soil with minerals and save any depleted soil, while giving an excellent harvest.

Green manure can be planted not only before strawberries, but also after. They will give the earth rest, improve its structure and nutritional value. The following are sown as green manure plants: alfalfa, mustard, rapeseed, rye, mustard, clover. At the beginning of July, the crop is plowed into the ground, having previously crushed the green mass. If you have enough acres to grow vegetables, you can sow the bed after the strawberries with flowers. Tulips, peonies and garden violets are best suited.

Crop rotation

Experts say that it is best to plant carrots after berries. Strawberries leave behind nematodes in the soil. This pest is not terrible for carrots. In addition, the following can be grown in a berry patch:

various types of cabbage,
leaf salads,
greenery.

On a note! It is recommended to return strawberries to their original planting location no earlier than after 6-7 years.

Crop rotation table for strawberry beds

What is the best time to plant strawberries?

Green manure plants are considered the best predecessors for strawberries. They help prepare the soil for growing this demanding berry. As green manure, you can sow oilseed radish, buckwheat, vetch, phacelia, oats, lupine or mustard in the garden bed. During the season, the plants are mowed several times and left untouched directly in the garden bed. After processing by worms and beneficial bacteria, the mowed plant mass turns into humus, thereby enriching the soil.

Lupine and vetch add nitrogen to the soil, mustard saturates it with phosphorus, and buckwheat leaves behind potassium. In the southern regions, green manure can be sown in the fall, before growing, for example, potatoes. In this case, by spring you will have a bed quite suitable for growing strawberries.

Some owners of summer cottages consider it wasteful not to use the land for planting vegetables for at least one season, so they refuse to grow green manure.

Good predecessors for strawberries are green beans and peas. You can also grow beans and beans, but they do not ripen in all regions.
and garlic will also contribute to the successful cultivation of strawberries after themselves. Moreover, they cleanse the soil well of harmful microorganisms and insects.
A good predecessor to strawberries will be greens. Plant dill, parsley, celery, spinach and various types of lettuce from the previous season.
In front of the strawberries, you can plant carrots, radishes and corn in the garden bed. These crops will give an excellent harvest and will not devastate the soil too much.

If you plan to plant strawberries in the fall, before planting, the bed must be thoroughly cleaned of plant debris (an exception is made for legumes, the stems of which are crushed and dug up along with the ground). Then the bed is dug deeply and organic fertilizers are added to the soil. After the soil settles, you can plant strawberry seedlings. Usually, all preparation takes no more than 2 weeks.

In the fall, it is not recommended to plant strawberry seedlings immediately after potatoes. belongs to the nightshade family, which shares common pests and diseases with strawberries.

If the plot is small and you want to manage it rationally, then the solution would be to sow clover or mustard after the potatoes. Before frost, these green manures will have time to sprout, after which they are dug up with soil, covered with film and left until spring. Therefore, it will not be possible to plant strawberries immediately after potatoes in the fall. But in the spring the garden bed will be quite suitable for growing berries.

There are also undesirable precursors for strawberries. As already mentioned, it is not planted after potatoes and other vegetables that belong to the nightshade family.

These are crops such as eggplant. The pests left behind by the berries will also enjoy these vegetables.
Raspberries. This bush produces tenacious shoots, which will have to be fought for several years in a row after the bushes are uprooted. Therefore, strawberries simply cannot grow normally in this place. Both berries also have a common pest - the strawberry-raspberry weevil. These crops should not be planted next to each other or one after another.
Sunflower and Jerusalem artichoke, which during cultivation completely emasculate the soil, depriving it of all nutrients. Strawberries love fertile soil, so they will not give a normal harvest after these crops.
Even such predecessors are not suitable for strawberries, like zucchini and cabbage. These vegetables take from the soil the same nutrients that garden strawberries need.
Plants belonging to the ranunculaceae family, it is not recommended to grow in the garden in front of strawberries. These flowers secrete biologically active substances that have a depressing effect on strawberry seedlings and prevent them from developing normally.
The same can be said about fennel, which is often mistakenly recommended to be grown as a predecessor to strawberries. It is an allelopathic crop that is unfriendly to all other plants. You can not only get a meager harvest of berries, but also lose seedlings altogether.

But strawberries themselves can be an unfavorable predecessor for other crops. This also has to be taken into account when conducting crop rotation.

Since strawberries greatly deplete the soil, it is clear that the land after its cultivation will not be suitable for some crops for which fertility is important. The berry takes its roots into the deep layers of the soil, which means that after it it is advisable to plant plants with a superficial root system.

strawberries;
raspberries;
rose hip;
hawthorn;
cloudberry;
Rowan.

In addition to the fact that they have the same requirements for fertility and soil composition, all these crops have common pests and common diseases. Therefore, there can be no talk of any quality growth or good harvest.

The best neighbors, what to plant nearby?

If the strawberries are not planted in a continuous carpet, it is quite possible to add useful “neighbors” to them in the garden. When the bushes grow in a checkerboard pattern, there is free space between them where you can plant lettuce and spinach. This technique will allow for more efficient use of land.

If you use parsley instead of lettuce and spinach, strawberry bushes are guaranteed protection from slugs, which do not like fragrant greens.
Onions and garlic planted between the bushes will protect the berries from nematodes, and they themselves will grow large heads, so the benefit from such a neighborhood will be mutual.
Low-growing varieties of marigolds, which will not be able to shade the berry bushes, will also help rid strawberries of nematodes.
Linear plantings of strawberries can be alternated with rows of carrots, radishes, radishes, beets, herbs, garlic and onions.
Beans, peas and lentils are perfect neighbors.

On a note! Fennel, horseradish and wild strawberries are not suitable for proximity to strawberry bushes.

Planting strawberries in autumn: video

Of course, you will have to tinker with preparing the bed for strawberries. But then you can forget about replanting for four years and enjoy delicious, juicy berries grown in your garden. There is no need to be lazy, properly loosen and fertilize the ridge after the strawberry bushes. This approach will pay off handsomely. And by growing the “correct” and suitable vegetables after strawberries, you will get an excellent harvest.

Following proper crop rotation in the garden helps to obtain good yields of vegetable and berry crops. When followed, a minimum of chemicals is required to maintain soil fertility and health. Crop rotation is of particular importance for crops that have been growing in one place for many years, among them strawberries.

The crop produces good harvests in one place for 3-5 years, then the quality of the berries deteriorates every year - they become smaller. Usually, every 4 years, the strawberry plantation must be moved to a new location. Most gardeners have small gardens, so the question: what to plant after strawberries and choosing a new place for them are always relevant.

For a new strawberry plantation, the important conditions will be:

location;
mechanical composition of the soil and degree of fertility;
predecessors.

When growing strawberries in a greenhouse, they use their own technologies for soil restoration and rejuvenation of plantings, while in open ground they use their own. On a large area where it is possible to grow strawberries separately from vegetable crops, grass crop rotation is practiced.

The entire plantation is divided into six stripes. Every year one of them is freed from strawberries. Green manure is used to restore soil fertility and clean it from pathogenic bacteria, fungi and pests. The recovery process follows the following scheme:

The strip cleared of strawberries is fertilized (organic matter is added).
The soil is dug up.
They are sowed with vetch. Seed consumption – 17 g/sq.m. m. Planting depth is from 3 to 5 cm.
Flowering vetch is mowed down.
Dried vetch is planted in the soil.
They level the ground and sow rye. They adhere to the norm of 13 g/sq.m. m.
At the end of autumn, the rye is mowed and the plot is dug up.
In spring, the strip is planted with potatoes.

The restored strip is replanted with strawberries in the third year. With this crop rotation, the plot will be restored every 5 years. For clarity, the grass crop rotation scheme is summarized in a table. Designations:

I am strawberry;
C – green manure;
K – potatoes.

Year of payment	Section No. 1	Section No. 2	Section No. 3	Section No. 4	Section No. 5	Section No. 6
1	WITH	I	I	I	I	I
2	TO	WITH	I	I	I	I
3	I	TO	WITH	I	I	I
4	I	I	TO	WITH	I	I
5	I	I	I	TO	WITH	I
6	I	I	I	I	TO	WITH
7	WITH	I	I	I	I	TO

As can be seen from the table, every year 2 out of 6 plots are occupied by green manure and potatoes, the rest are under strawberries.

When growing strawberries in open ground at the dacha, with a small garden at your disposal, the soil is restored by alternating vegetables. Let's consider crop rotation, which can be used when planting strawberries in open ground in the fall.

The area where young strawberry seedlings will be planted in the fall should be planted with turnips and radishes.
The second and third year strawberries will grow on it.
In the fourth year you need to plant cabbage and cucumbers there.
, pepper or potatoes.
Sixth year - root vegetables: carrots, beets.

The annual rotation of vegetable crops (crop rotation) is reflected in the table.

Year of payment	1	2	3	4	5	6
strawberry		+	+
cabbage				+
cucumber				+
potato					+
tomato					+
pepper					+
beet						+
carrot						+
turnip	+
radish	+

The table shows that every 5 years the strawberry bed must be moved to a new location. The rotation of vegetable crops may be different. It is connected with the real need of the family for vegetables.

Potatoes traditionally take up a lot of space in the garden. Any summer resident planning to grow strawberries in open ground has a question: can they be grown after potatoes? The strawberry crop in open ground suffers from a fungal infection; one of the fungal diseases, late blight, often affects potato plantings.

The wireworm beetle lays eggs in potato beds, the larvae of which spoil potato tubers and damage the roots of garden strawberries. The logical conclusion suggests itself is that you should refrain from planting strawberries after potatoes.. Above was an example of grass crop rotation, where after potatoes the plantation is planted with green manure.

This crop rotation option allows you to plant strawberries in open ground a year after potatoes. You can alternate green manure with other vegetable crops. Advantages of green manure:

kill fungal spores;
improve soil structure;
reduce the number of weeds.

Adherents of natural farming believe that it is possible to plant strawberries after potatoes, but the soil must be treated with EM preparations before planting, and they offer their own schemes for this.

What are the best predecessors of strawberries and most vegetable crops is clear. Another question is what vegetables. Legumes come first. These are all types of beans, beans and peas. When planting strawberries in open ground in the fall, legumes are very convenient; they are harvested at the end of summer, so there will be enough time to prepare the bed.

The list can be extended to include:

all types of greens;
garlic;
corn;
radish;
carrot.

It's worth dealing with the bad predecessors of strawberries. It is clear that this list will include those vegetable crops that are susceptible to the same infections as garden strawberries. Most of all, it has common enemies with nightshade crops: eggplants, potatoes, peppers, tomatoes.

Raspberries come next. She is an undesirable predecessor for two reasons. The first is that root shoots will crawl out of the ground for a long time. The second is the weevil, a pest that spoils strawberries and raspberries with equal pleasure.

The soil is greatly depleted by planting sunflowers and. After them, it is necessary to restore fertility with the application of all types of fertilizers and planting green manure. Bad predecessors also include:

cucumbers;
fennel;
zucchini;
squash;
cabbage.

In order not to lose your vegetable harvest, it’s a good idea to know which ones should not be planted after strawberries. We filter vegetables according to the same principle: common diseases, common pests. It turns out that it is absolutely not worth planting nightshade crops and raspberries the next year after strawberries.

It is also better to avoid planting melons; strawberries deplete the soil in 3-4 years and you won’t get a good harvest of zucchini, watermelons, or melons. It is better to sow beans, peas, green manure, thanks to them the soil will be restored over the summer. Many people plant flowers after strawberries. After strawberries, all ornamental bulbous plants feel good.

During the first years, strawberries in open ground can be compacted. When choosing neighbors, it is better to adhere to the following rules:

do not plant vegetables in the neighborhood that consume the same nutrients as strawberries;
bad neighbors are those that need watering of different frequency and volume;
plants should not shade strawberries;
There should be no common diseases or insect pests.

One- and two-year-old strawberry plantings can be compacted with root vegetables: radishes and early ripening bunch-type carrots. An ideal neighbor would be root parsley. It does a good job of repelling leaf-eating mollusks (snails, slugs) from strawberry bushes. Large or worth planting on neighboring ridges.

Planting garlic and onions with strawberries: video

The planting pattern directly depends on how long the strawberries will grow in one place:

2 years - the interval between bushes in a row is from 15 to 30 cm, between lines - 30 or 40 cm;
3 years – 25-42 cm and 50-60 cm;
When growing strawberries one year in one place, dense planting is practiced - up to 50 roots per square meter. m.

The main reasons why a change of location is necessary is the aging of bushes, depending on the specific variety, and the accumulation of pathogens and strawberry pests in the soil. Strawberry yields are falling due to the fact that they have to spend most of their vital resources fighting infections and harmful insects.

The location of the plot affects the yield and taste of the berries. In the shade and in wetlands, you should not expect a good harvest from a berry garden. A strawberry plantation (bed) can be set up in a lighted place, protected from the north wind; it can be located in the garden next to currant or grape bushes.

The composition of the soil affects its productivity in open ground. Any variety of strawberry bears fruit well on sandy loam or soddy-podzolic soil. On clay soil, garden berries develop slowly, form small berries, and the yield is low. Strawberries often get sick due to waterlogging.

How to plant strawberries correctly: video

Components that improve the structure of heavy soil:

river sand;
rotted sawdust moistened with urea solution;
mineral fertilizers containing NPK complex (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium);
peat with added ash.

Sowing green manure is the best option for soil restoration. But saving space, not all summer residents choose them as participants in crop rotation. With a planned approach, problems do not arise. When planting strawberries for the first time, you need to plan a change of crops 5-6 years in advance. Long-term planning, even within a small summer cottage, contributes to a guaranteed harvest of strawberries and other vegetable crops.

After which you can plant strawberries in the fall - useful predecessors. Those gardeners who carefully monitor the condition of their plots are well aware that replanting strawberries in the fall is as necessary a procedure as fertilizing and watering. The main thing is to always take into account the fact that this plant is not capable of producing a good harvest every year if it remains in one place for more than four years. Therefore, it is necessary to know after which crops garden strawberries can be planted, and after which crops it is not advisable to do so. Strawberries are not a very demanding plant, but it is still important not only to decide in advance on the place where you will plant them, but also to worry about saturating the soil with nutrients. This crop can grow on almost any soil, but ideally the bed should contain about 2% humus. So, what is the best way to plant a plant after it has stayed in one place for four years? Acceptable predecessors of garden strawberries include crops such as beets, endive lettuce and lettuce. But experts still recommend planting strawberries after onions, radishes, parsley, garlic, peas, beans, legumes, carrots, celery, dill, corn, and green manure. If you plant strawberries after onions, garlic and other suitable crops in early autumn, you can hope to harvest the crop by the summer of next year. But even if you do timely planting after such good predecessors as garlic, onions, dill, parsley and others, you must take into account that one lives for about 20 years, and the maximum berry harvest occurs in the first three years. Digging up a strawberry bush from the garden It is more correct to say not to replant, but to plant, since it is customary to plant one- or two-year-old plants in the fall, after dividing them into parts, or a whole shoot that has appeared on the mustache. Why is this needed? In order to rejuvenate the plantings. After all, over a period of four years, pathogens accumulate inside the soil, and some strawberry pests also establish themselves. And the plants themselves become older over time, the number of flowers on them decreases, and the yield decreases. You can plant strawberries in spring, summer and autumn. But in autumn the weather is already quite cool, the ground is wet and still warm. Therefore, it is good to plant this crop in the fall, because it has time to take root and grow a normal-sized green rosette. Most of the seedlings that have taken root in the fall can be safely left to overwinter, because they will no longer be so afraid of frost. Before planting strawberries in the fall, special attention should be paid to clearing the soil of weed rhizomes, since these harmful perennial crops tend to make weeding and maintenance difficult in the future.