How to do electrical installation in an apartment. How to properly install electrical wiring in an apartment or house. Electrical wiring in the bathroom: basic rules

An apartment in which renovation begins is like a blank canvas, like a ticket to a new life. I hope you have patience, endurance, money and a vision of how you will truly create “your” home. And you will have to start creating from the base - electrical wiring.

I recommend that you pay extreme attention to this stage of repair. Don’t just invite an electrician (at best, on the recommendations of friends) and leave it to him, but delve into the issue personally, and more deeply. After reading this material, you will be convinced that at the initial stage you will have to bother a little more in order to ultimately get a truly modern, comfortable “fortress house”. In which life will be comfortable and rational.

The catch is that the concept of correctness in this matter is extremely vague. From standards generally accepted since Soviet times to progressive and, in fact, appropriate in the 21st century. I will try to tell you about the second option. And show its capabilities and advantages. Of course, it is impossible to embrace the immensity and present in detail all the subtleties of apartment electrical wiring within the framework of one material. But, I hope, I managed to reveal the main idea - about why we should move away from the usual techniques.

So, your main task is to achieve a convenient and correct electrical circuit. In simple terms: so that sockets and switches are in convenient places (but not an eyesore), so that they are confidently enough, so that the equipment works without failures, and it is absolutely safe to use electricity in the apartment. This can be achieved by following a simple algorithm. And a good start is half the battle here. Where to start? From the mind - from planning and drafting technical diagram. For this you will have to go through 3 main stages:

1. mark the location of the shield,
2. draw up a diagram of the location of sockets and switches,
3. draw routes and calculate the required amount of cable.

For clarity, here and there I will illustrate the material with data from the website of the large electrical and lighting store “AxiomPlus”. There is always up-to-date technical and pricing information.

Where to install the shield?

In 99% of cases they are placed in the hallway, which is not without logic. By placing the box in the area of ​​the front door at a height of about 1.5 meters from the floor, you:

1. reduce the length of the power cable to a minimum,
2. at the exit from the apartment you can, if necessary, disconnect unnecessary lines,
3. Prevent small children from accessing the content.

Having determined a suitable place, put marks on the wall so as not to lose it. And we move on.

Please note: it is too early to buy the shield itself at this stage! You do not yet know which modular devices and in what quantities will be located in it, therefore you do not have data for choosing the size and capacity of the box. All this will become known later. In addition, below I will talk about the capabilities of a new type of electrical panels. I promise they will be a godsend for many.

Next according to the plan is the marking of socket groups and switches.

You can easily handle this yourself, because who knows better than you where you will place the furniture, appliances and lamps? Focus on convenience. Walk around the apartment, determine where you will need basic and additional lighting. Discuss with other family members how and where it is convenient for them to use technology.

Then, on paper (or on a copy of the apartment plan), in a mobile application, on a computer (whichever is more convenient), sketch out a diagram of the layout of large furniture (sofas, tables, beds, cabinets, TV and audio equipment, kitchen furniture). And after that - the location of sockets and switches. Why after? So that in fact it doesn’t turn out that a third of the connection points are hidden behind bulky interior items and become inaccessible for use, and there is nowhere to turn on some of the equipment.

Tip: don’t skimp on the number of outlets. In this matter, it is better to over than under. As practice shows, at least 50 pieces are needed for a standard two-room apartment. Group them 2-3-4, it's convenient. And in the future, when several connection points are united by one decorative frame, it will be aesthetically pleasing. If you “save” at this stage, you will receive less in everyday comfort. And over time, “decorate” the apartment with garlands of wires from extension cords and tees.

Did you come up with it? Have you planned it? Pick up a pencil with a strong lead (there are also special construction ones) and... feel like Michelangelo.

The next task is painting on the walls and ceiling.

Draw a path from each planned outlet and switch to the panel. That is, from the point on the walls where they will be located in the near future. Route the main cable routes either along the floor or ceiling. How to choose? If you plan to have a heated floor, then ceiling cable routing is actually the only possible option and, in practice, the one most often used.

For the sake of fairness, I will make a remark. Theoretically, a “warm floor” does not interfere with the laying of cable routes in the floor. Here the question depends on the thickness of the screed: for example, you can safely pour anything into a 10-centimeter layer of screed. But in apartments they usually try not to “eat” so much. We’ll talk about the “warm field” (and how, in fact, to “eat” less height) below in more detail.

When drawing, make sure that the lines go from above to the sockets (each 0.3 m from the floor) and switches (0.9-1 m from the floor) strictly vertically, and all turns are only at right angles.

As a result of the art, you will get a lot of drawn lines converging at one point - at the place where the apartment electrical panel is installed. Why do this? For preliminary calculation of the required cable footage.

Tip: Mark each pencil line, clearly indicating where the cable will be routed from. This will greatly facilitate and speed up installation in the future.

Why are there so many lines?

It is important to understand: a progressive approach to organizing electrical wiring assumes that each socket or switch is connected by wire to the panel directly, without junction boxes and without connections. This the most reliable and high-quality thing you can do with home electrical wiring. Frankly, the main cause of fires due to faulty electrical wiring is precisely where the wires connect. This is the most problematic place. Accordingly, if there are no connections, the risks are several times lower.

It's comfortable. Self-contained circuits are always more practical than all sockets powered by one cable. There was an accident in one, the entire line was turned off “until clarification” - and you sit without the ability to turn on electrical appliances anywhere. Plus it will often cost less. Well, at least not more expensive, I’ll cover the topic below.

What electricians still do, and why it's wrong.

I won’t speak for all specialists, but the fact remains a fact. It will be a long time since there will be no shortage of masters who think and act according to the standards of the last century. Not according to the needs of modern housing with its electrical filling. What does it mean? And the fact that the wiring project and cable calculations, and, accordingly, automation, is carried out with an eye on hopelessly outdated standards. Standards by which you overpay when receiving electrical wiring with minimal potential.

• 2 wiring circuits per room - for lighting and sockets;
• separate circuits directly to the panel for each powerful electrical appliance (such as an electric stove or oven);
• a separate circuit breaker in the panel to protect each line.

Regarding the choice of cable cross-section, the usual standards, tested for decades, are the following (you can check it yourself by googling or talking to a familiar electrician):

• 1.5 mm2 for lighting lines + 10A circuit breaker;
• 2.5 mm2 for socket lines + plus 16A circuit breaker;
• 4 mm2 for powerful consumers + plus a 20A circuit breaker.

Simple, clear, proven. But it's outdated. In no way am I saying that this cannot be done - it is certainly possible. The question is, why, if you can do it smartly, and not the old fashioned way? The next step is to figure out how to calculate the wires “in a new way.”

What is the best way to select and calculate a cable: cross-section, length, brand?

First, by engaging rational critical thinking. Mainly in order to analyze the real (and not theoretical, but in fact outdated) electricity consumption of modern household appliances and lamps.

As a prelude, I will name the main bonus: you will save on the purchase of cable.

At the very least, don’t overpay, and you’ll “eat” the fruits every day. Buy a kilometer of thin wire or half a kilometer of thick wire - that’s what it will do. Yes, there will be more automation in the dashboard, but this is not a significant increase in price. After all, this is not to install RCDs on all lines (I’ll talk about this in more detail below). Adding 10-15 low-denomination machines will not significantly affect the budget. Oh yes, and the box will need a little more room, which is also a small thing.

First, the most revealing point: let's talk about lighting.

We take it for granted that in most apartments and cottages it is already LED. With all the ensuing advantages, including super-economical consumption. And the above standardized cable cross-section indicators were developed for hopelessly outdated, but half a century ago, voracious LONs that did not have a single competitor. Isn’t it significant: instead of 60W for LON, it’s only 6-7W for LED!

So what's the point of stubbornly powering a light bulb with 10 times less consumption with the same 1.5 mm2? Ok, let’s not consider one light bulb, let’s take for clarity an expensive, rich chandelier with a total consumption of 50W. Even for it, the cross-section is not that “one and a half”, but 0.75 mm2 suggests a decent margin of safety.

The check here is simple: use the formula, proven over decades (this is what never becomes outdated) and generations of electricians:

I(A) = S(mm2) × 10

where I is the current strength, S is the required cable cross-section, 10 is simply 10. I’ll immediately add a note: practice has proven that this empirically derived formula differs from scientific calculations within a tiny statistical error and has an ironclad right to exist.

For our magnificent (and by LED standards, voracious) chandelier, the required cross-sectional area will be:

1. 50W / 230V = 0.22A,
2. 0.22A / 10 = 0.022mm2,
3. 0.75mm2 / 0.022 = 34 times.

How do you like it? Even such an unusually thin wire exceeds the actual requirement by 34 (!), and the usual 1.5 mm2 for lighting lines is simply blatantly off scale.

Let me note once again that these are approximate calculations, but they are not far from reality.

Why fight for a new approach and a thin wire? Not at all because of compactness as such, it’s still ditching. And for the sake of significant savings. Because for every meter of cable you will lose a significant amount. For a cable coil of 0.75 mm2 you will pay about 200 UAH. For “one and a half rubles” - 6-7 times more. Yes, you will have to buy up to several kilometers of thin cable and generously lay it out in bundles. It happens that 10 km of wires are wound in an apartment, but these are thin wires.

What cross section should be used for 220/230V sockets?

At a minimum, install a separate cable for each more or less powerful electrical appliance. Split system, washing machine, electric water heater... Let there be 20, 30 lines in total - this is not terrible, but even good (remember about twists and connections, or rather, that it is advisable to minimize them, and ideally avoid them). And for each electrical appliance, calculate the cross-section as close as possible. Moreover, standard sockets larger than 16 amperes will still not pass through.

I’ll say more and look ahead: not all standard sockets will carry even 16 amperes. Even (!) if it says on them that they can. Here the issue comes down to quality. In cheap Turkish or Chinese sockets you will rarely find actual copper or at least brass as part of the contact group, because in fact there is steel coated with paint with a hint of copper, and the possibilities are even smaller. And accordingly, it simply doesn’t make sense to run an expensive thick cable to such an outlet.

Often in practice there are situations when people are going to buy a good cable for their apartment (for example, from Odeskabel), but at the same time the sockets are from the frank economy segment - they say, they can save money on this. It might save you money, but the point of overpaying for cable is immediately lost.

Real examples: cables are purchased for 15 thousand UAH, and sockets are purchased for 1.5 thousand UAH. Chinese (despite the fact that German ones would cost 3,000 UAH). Would it makes more sense to do the opposite: lay a thinner cable and use German sockets. For the price it would have worked out that way, but the result would have been definitely cooler, more correct and more durable. It makes no sense to run a cable that can withstand 7 kW to an outlet that cannot withstand 3 kW. That is, this is money wasted on cable.

In addition, if there is a really powerful electrical appliance that requires an appropriate cable cross-section (like an electric stove, unless it was connected directly from the panel), then the socket for it will be a special one, a power one.

And the cable there really needs to be 4mm2. And in other cases, there is no point in chasing the cross-section. All the same, the socket as a weak link immediately limits the capabilities of the entire system.

By the way, we will definitely talk about the selection and installation of electrical accessories below; this is a really important issue. One of the fundamental ones. In the meantime, let's continue about cable selection.

In current realities, more electricity is actually consumed than 3-4 decades ago. But this happens mainly due to an increase in the amount of equipment in each individual household. At the same time, modern electrical appliances are no match for Soviet ones; they are no longer so voracious in themselves (look at the labeling of new washing machines and refrigerators - solid A+ and A++). Overall consumption becomes more economical and is smoothly distributed over time throughout the day, without sudden jumps. Not like decades ago, when the refrigerator turned on in your kitchen, and even the neighbors’ lights flickered. Those. total consumption has increased, but peak consumption has not. Due to the fact that consumption is low, there is no point in making large gaps.

What's in the numbers? Based on the lighting, you have decided - feel free to choose a cable with a cross-section of 0.75 mm2.

If you ask: why not 0.5mm2, since according to calculations this is enough? But because the difference in price for these sections is not significant. At the same time, we take into account that on long routes with too small a cross-section there can be significant losses. Plus 0.75mm2 is definitely enough for everything related to light, and with a decent margin for the future. Therefore, it is better to buy 0.75mm2, so as not to think and never remember.

Let's move on to the sockets.

Rating 10A or 16A - the value for which standard Schuko sockets are designed. A 3x2.5mm2 wire is what is prescribed to power them according to classic electrical installations. Let's check the relevance of these recommendations using the same scheme: 2.5mm2 × 10 = 25A - this is how much the wire can pass, but bad luck - the outlet itself is limited to 16 amperes. By the way, this is 3.6 kW (16A × 230V) of the power of the connected electrical appliance, let’s also look at this indicator: 25A × 230V = 5.75 kW - something too powerful to plug into a regular outlet, isn’t it? After all, in fact, the consumption of modern technology is quite modest. Take even the most powerful ones - a storage electric water heater, also known as a boiler, for 1.5 kW: 1500 W / 230 V = 6.5 A, 6.5 / 10 (the formula mentioned above) = 0.65 mm2.

As you can see, even quite powerful equipment with a significant reserve is powered by the same “one and a half”. The conclusion is similar to the point about lighting - wires with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 are an unreasonably expensive and unnecessary solution.

Life hack: plan several outlets that you will use only for charging mobile devices. Somewhere near the bedside table or in the hallway, whichever is more convenient for you. And feel free to power them with a wire with a cross-section of 1 mm2, because the consumption there will be absolutely negligible. For what? Additional savings in cable purchases: 4 times per meter. The same for low-power consumers such as musical equipment.

Is that “2.5mm2 for socket lines” really useful? To be honest, in reality it is only needed for direct connection of an oven or a powerful boiler (there are such things). Such devices do not have a plug; the cable goes directly inside from the panel and is connected to a special terminal. For an electric kettle or iron, it is enough to just buy a very high-quality 1.5mm2 cable, so that it certainly complies with GOST. But, of course, to calm your soul, you can lay 2.5mm2 on the circuits with sockets for connecting an iron, vacuum cleaner, electric kettle or heater. To be sure.

Regarding particularly powerful consumers the recommendations remain relevant: for an electric oven or electric stove, it is better to make separate circuits directly to the panel using a cable with a cross-section of 4 mm2 for a consumer with a power of up to 6-7 kW or 6 mm2 for 8-10 kW. Three-wire for single-phase network, five-wire for three-phase.

Here I will also make a footnote - even stoves and ovens are not always connected to 4mm2 or 6mm2, for some people even 2.5mm2 is enough, here you need to read the instructions for the specific model.

What about cable brands and quantities?

In general, most often in apartments they use PVA (it is flexible and easy to install) or VVG (cheaper, but tougher, and therefore more difficult to install). But as we follow our differentiation plan, keep in mind: On the lighting line, only PVA (or ShVVP) is suitable, because others are not thin enough. The same VVG has a minimum cross-section of 1.5 mm2 (and, as you remember, we justified that there is no point in laying a wire thicker than 0.75 mm2 for LED lamps). The choice of sockets depends rather on the preferences of the electrician; here we will not be categorical.

This way you will determine which wires you need. And calculate the footage of each type using those pencil lines drawn earlier. They are marked with what is what, so you won’t get confused. Only for each circuit add another meter and a half for input and connection of automation. So determine the layout based on the total needs of cables of different sections.

Where can you buy a cable that is not truncated, according to GOST, and not a fake?

It’s clear that it’s not on the market - because. extremely high probability of getting caught in a fake. And buying directly from the factory is often completely impossible. Optimally from an official representative, preferably with a long presence on the market, because Unfortunately, there are still plenty of one-day online stores, although there are significantly fewer of them than 5 years ago. One of the official representatives, and in fact there are not many of them, today is a specialized store of electrical engineering and cable products - AxiomPlus - where you can choose a cable according to detailed characteristics, and compare the price of trusted suppliers (read: manufacturers) and buy a good cable quality without fear for its authenticity.

Calculate - counted, but how to lay it? And what else will be useful?

Most often they are laid on the ceiling or floor. But still, more often the first option, because cable heated floors are popular in apartments and houses. That is, the wires run along the ceiling, and then go down the walls to the locations of sockets and switches. In this case, the cable on the ceiling is then covered either with sheets of plasterboard or with suspended ceilings. Along the walls, the cable route lies inside the groove, hidden under a layer of plaster.

Is additional corrugation needed?

Surely your electrician will state that you need to add corrugation for laying to the estimate. And here I would stop and reflect. I’ll say right away that the question “corrugation and its role in electrical wiring” leads to a separate topic with emotional reasoning. An ambiguous question, which is better to be solved based on the following considerations:

1. standards and regulations,
2. expediency.

In fact, the “Wiring Rules” do not mention corrugation itself. It regulates how cables should be laid in different situations and conditions, at what distance the cable should be from the combustible surface, where and how it should be located. It is not written that it should be specifically corrugated.

That is, in some cases, simply by the fact of its presence, it allows you to lay the cable in accordance with the requirements of the regulations. For example, the cable should be laid at a distance of 2 cm from the surface. It is certainly possible to achieve this with the help of corrugation - so that it hangs at a given distance, plus does not bend or break. But by itself it does not protect it from anything except a number of mechanical damages.

Perhaps, the main reason to lay the cable in a corrugated: If the pipes are hermetically sealed, then oxygen does not get inside. As a result, even if something happens to the cable inside, a spark appears and a fire occurs, the oxygen inside will instantly run out and self-extinguishing will occur. Sounds good, right? But keep in mind that the effect occurs only when the pipes are hermetically sealed. But in practice, more often than not, “if only it was”, they threw it, and everything looks more solid, the client is satisfied. And ask, what are they for? — 95% of electricians will find it difficult to give a substantive answer. You will hear versions like: “well, it should be in the pipe”, “that’s how everyone does it”, “it’s so beautiful.” So, if you are going to lay it in pipes, then it is logical to seal the ends. At the same time, be sure to ensure that the pipe is of good quality and without damage.

So, home wiring is safe even without the use of PVC corrugation when using a flame-retardant cable (like VVG) and hidden wiring (in grooves under a layer of plaster).

This is more of a visual solution and light additional mechanical protection (for example, a drywall worker will accidentally hit it with a knife and damage the insulation). And also easy to replace the wire if necessary.

Life hack: if considered in the context of mechanical protection, consider the option of cable channels. Purely for reasons of practicality. At least they are square; they are much easier to plaster in the walls than round corrugation. They come with consumables such as corners, turns, tees, which facilitate installation. And for safety purposes, this is the same (although, in truth, the cable channel is in fact more rigid and will protect against mechanical damage better than a corrugated pipe). In terms of money, with a cable channel it’s barely more expensive.

Think about impulse switches.

Especially for large rooms, rooms with complex configurations, long corridors. If the apartment is one-room, small, then there is no special meaning, but “the master is the master.” It happens that they do it in one-room apartments.

Why yes? This is a triple saving: on cables, on switches, on installation. It’s also reliable and repairable—if it fails, you can replace it in five minutes with a screwdriver. Not like for a crossover switch, where the repair floor needs to be redone in order to replace it.

Impulse switches are no longer uncommon. The idea naturally becomes popular, and demand, accordingly, gives rise to supply. You will find them in the catalogs of European manufacturers of electrical accessories, and a pulse switch costs exactly the same as a regular one. To go with it you need to buy a pulse relay, which is placed in the switchboard; its price is quite affordable, about 200-300 UAH.

And, of course, there is a huge amount made in China, but here you have to be more careful so as not to run into outright trash. That is, the price is already equal to the walk-through ones, but installation is easier and faster. As well as repair or replacement as necessary. Moreover, you can install them without restrictions on quantity - wherever it is convenient to use. Pulse relays and buttons allow you to create absolutely any combination of lighting system control. At least one zone from five-ten-fifteen places, at least five-ten-fifteen zones from one place. And you don't need to run around the apartment. For example, when leaving the house, by pressing one button near the front door, turn off the lights in all rooms.

But this is still a desirable, not a mandatory element. Let's now return to the really important object located near the front door - the distribution panel. His time has come.

How to choose and install an electrical panel.

You probably already realized that the resulting shield will be much larger than the 10-module boxes that are becoming a thing of the past. It is convenient to choose step by step according to the parameters.

Size— based on the total number of modules of all devices placed in the panel (read more below).

Life hack: be sure to provide some extra space on the DIN rail. This will be very helpful if in the future you have to install one or two more machines (for example, on a new split system) or an additional RCD in the children's room. In general, in principle, the more spacious the box inside, the more convenient the installation.

Material- plastic (generally more aesthetically pleasing and more convenient for an apartment) and metal.

Installation method- built into the wall or mounted. It is better to build it into an apartment, this is maximum compactness.

Life hack: if you are installing it in drywall, immediately buy special fastening tabs for mounting in hollow walls, so as not to have to worry about installation and not have to re-order.

Design- Do you want one with a transparent door or a solid one? Rely on your own understanding of convenience and aesthetics.

Some people want to take a look at the voltage relay installed on the DIN rail (I’ll definitely tell you about it) with an indication on the display and understand that everything is normal. For others, a white opaque door seems like a nicer option. By the way, about white. Not white, actually, alone.

If you want something more interesting, you are welcome - to the catalogs of European manufacturers. They make shields so cute that they can be considered as a highlight of the interior. For example, in the Volta series from Hager there are designs in blue, metallic, anthracite, even with mirror frames, to match the poster. Or models whose doors can be easily covered with plaster or wallpaper to completely blend into the wall.

Life hack: If there are small, curious children in the apartment (and are they not curious in principle?), a model of a shield with a lock will be very useful. Unlike a standard latch, it will reliably block access to the contents.

Whatever box you ultimately choose, be sure to mark each modular device in the panel - using a diagram (some box models have a clip on the door for storing it) or by marking it with special stickers.

For lovers of versatility, design and compact solutions.

She promised to tell me about an interesting solution. Appeared on the market hybrid shields from “classic” European brands (Hager, Schneider Electric). What is their valuable feature: in addition to the DIN rail, they have a mounting board for multimedia equipment. Imagine: you simply hide the router inside the built-in box, and do not “decorate” with it a wall or a cabinet in the corridor. Such shields are well ventilated due to their thoughtful design. Using the example of the Hager series of the popular Volta:

1. the classic built-in box VU36UA for 36 modules will cost almost a thousand hryvnia,
2. hybrid VU36NWB with the same capacity, but also with perforated mounting panels - one and a half thousand “with kopecks” *.

* prices for electrical panels were also taken from the AxiomPlus website (by the way, the official partner of the Hager company) and are indicated at the time of publication of this material (September 2019).

That is, in the second case, you will pay 1.5 times more, but will immediately receive a place in the main distribution panel adapted for the installation of computer network equipment (elements of the Smart Home system, alarm system). And the maximum possible civilized appearance of the hallway.

What is mandatory and what is advisable to put in the electrical panel.

Required elements for home electrical panel: circuit breakers(for short circuit protection) and RCD(from leakage currents). Select machines according to the calculated rated current value for each line. Or exactly the same load as expected on the circuit, or the rating next in the line in the direction of increase.

For example, let's take the water heater we reviewed. The line for connecting it at 6.5A (we calculated above) will require protection by a 10A automatic machine: 6A is already not enough, and the next one in the “ten” gradation (“eight” is a very rare denomination and is produced in industrial series). See the entire range of possible denominations in the online catalog (it’s convenient to choose there too).

Advice: you cannot take the machine’s nominal value “for growth”. In this case, the reserve is not only unnecessary, but harmful. The protection should work, turning off the emergency line BEFORE the cable starts to heat up.

For protection against leakage currents, set the RCD to at least the introductory(for the entire apartment) with a sensitivity to leakage current of 100 mA. It works as a fire protection (paired with a common input circuit breaker). For a small apartment, it is permissible to put 30mA at the input; it will work against both fire and electric shock.

Another one for the bathroom - preferably with sensitivity to leakage currents of 10 mA (plus the same for the children's room, if there is one or planned). 30mA is also allowed in the bathroom. If your budget is freer, then use an even more reliable option: for each room there is a separate 30mA RCD (except for the bathroom and children’s room, we do not change the indicators here), and then you will do without the introductory one.

Advice: follow the organization of the automation markings in the dashboard that are simple and clear at first glance. This will help you instantly navigate the “stuffing”.

A healthy solution is to install a voltage relay to protect equipment.

But only with occasional dips and surges in voltage in the sockets (if the problems are constant, then the relay will work non-stop). The relay will promptly de-energize the line in case of emergency voltage values ​​(i.e., beyond the safe limits for household appliances specified in the instructions). And will resume feeding after the situation stabilizes.

This opportunity is especially valuable for compressor equipment (refrigerators, air conditioners). Structurally, choose for the entire apartment (for installation in a distribution panel on a DIN rail) or for one electrical appliance - most often they choose a socket version for a refrigerator.

You need to select a relay according to its nominal value: according to the sum of the powers of the connected electrical appliances. For example, equipment (potentially switched on at a time) consumes a total of 11 kW; determine the nominal value using the formula from a school physics course:

I = U/R = 13000W/230V = 47.8A

then select the relay in the panel to the nearest value of 50A. It’s better to look at the models offered for sale with your own eyes to understand the dimensions. So, relays for 50A suitable for our example occupy 3 modules in width. This is important to know so as not to miss the capacity of the distribution panel.

Important: for one phase - one relay, for three phases - three single-phase relays.

To prevent natural force majeure, install a surge arrester.

I advise you to install surge protection (in other words, lightning protection) in the shield. The value of this device is that it minimizes the risks of lightning overvoltage (which, by the way, no circuit breaker can handle). This is especially important for residents of private houses, but even in an apartment it is better to be on the safe side and install a surge arrester of the most budget category D (price tag within $10) in your panel. After all, the lightning protection system from builders often does not stand up to criticism.

Important: set to zero and phase. For a single-phase network, a two-pole arrester is needed, for a three-phase network, a 4-pole one is needed.

At the same time, work on electrical fittings.

When you know how many sockets and switches there will be in the apartment, as well as their location, feel free to start looking for them. As for installation, you need to start by preparing the holes for installing socket boxes (standard depth 45 mm or “XXL” - 60 mm if it is supposed to contain a wire assembly).

To install several mechanisms in a row, choose ready-made socket boxes for 2-4 places or modular ones that are easily connected to each other - consult your specialist.

You probably already know, but let me remind you. Modern electrical accessories are structurally produced in two versions: assembled (economy segment) and disassembled (the vast majority of European series). The dismountable kit is a mechanism with a metal frame, attached to a wall socket, and a separate decorative frame attached to it.

So, start “beautifying” and installing decorative frames only after finishing the finishing work - on finished walls with wallpaper or painting.

For families with children, I strongly advise you to choose sockets with protection - with curtains (the holes are closed by default, and open only when both are pressed at the same time. Moreover, the pressure is equal to the same force as when turning on the pins of a plug. There are also options with covers.

In addition to the standard ones, consider the location of special multimedia and USB sockets, as well as for the thermostat.

What to consider in advance if you are planning a heated floor.

Water heated floors are prohibited in apartment buildings. But with electric, choose from three options:

1. heating cable - completely embedded in a cement screed (minus - it will eat up the height of at least 2-4 cm);
2. heating mats - will cost a little more than cable and mesh, but are easier to install and more compact in height;
3. heating film is the thinnest solution (from 0.4 mm) and the only one possible if raising the floor level is not possible.

In terms of power, the guideline is simple. For additional heating to increase comfort, 100-120 W/m2 is sufficient. Connect complete with temperature sensor and thermostat. Make the connection directly from the panel to a separate machine, no surprises here. Place the socket block on this system, and place the thermostat in it under the frame.

Is it possible to make backup power in the apartment?

Yes, and this is done using an uninterruptible power supply. Let's talk about how to choose, connect, what to power, how long the resource will last. The beauty of a UPS is that, thanks to the built-in batteries, it will continue to operate the equipment connected to it for a certain time. Which one depends on the power of the UPS itself and how much you “hung” on it.

Typically, backup power is provided centrally at the level of an apartment building - new high-rise buildings are connected and put into operation with backup power. But don’t be confused: backup power is not autonomous. Those. They are powered from a neighboring area so that people do not have to sit in the dark for a long time.

But the issue of backup power in a single apartment is quite difficult. Let me clarify - difficulties arise when we are talking about autonomous power supply for the entire apartment. At a minimum, because the UPS for an apartment is quite large.

Thus, a LogicPower LPY B PSW 7000VA UPS with 5 kW output power and dimensions of 0.2 x 0.3 x 0.5 m weighs 31 kg, and models with a power of about 10 kW are completely long - up to 0.7 (or more) meters in one of the sizes. You understand, this is a large, weighty, and also noisy device. More suitable for a private home, where it is convenient to place it somewhere in the utility room. And in an apartment such a colossus will clearly become a foreign object. Plus it’s also expensive: the same 5000 W option will cost from 20 thousand UAH. and higher.

Why not a generator? You can read the subtleties and nuances in the article. But let's face it: the likelihood of vibration and noise disturbing both you and your neighbors is too high. And the neighbors can be nervous and may contact the law enforcement agencies. I’ll say right away that the idea is good in theory, but in practice it is small and difficult to implement.

But it is still possible to make a backup power supply at the initial stage of repair. Just approach the issue from the point of view of maximum rationality. What is missing most when the power goes out? Isn't it true, lighting in the dark? So let's power it up. Then, in the event of an accident, there will always be light in your apartment, without flashlights or candles, and this is already a plus of one hundred hundred points for the comfort of life.

How to choose an uninterruptible power supply “for the light”, I'll show you with an example. Let's say we are talking about a two-room apartment with a total power consumption for lighting of 80 W (we take it for granted that LED lamps are installed everywhere). We take into account that, in principle, all the light bulbs never light up at the same time, and we take into account that a third to half of the power will be used, i.e. maximum 30-40W (and only if used on a grand scale). For such a situation, an inexpensive 500-750W UPS is sufficient. Let's see what he is actually capable of.

For example, a LogicPower LP 850VA UPS with 510 W output power and a battery life at full load of 10-15 minutes is enough for: 510 W / 40 W = 12.75. This is 12.75 × 10 minutes = 127.5 minutes. A full 2 ​​hours of autonomous lighting! And this is with a completely free mode of use. If you squeeze down to a couple of light bulbs, then half a day will be enough.

Life hack: no matter how tempting it may be to connect a refrigerator to the UPS, there is no point in it. Even with a bonus 20-30 minutes, you will not radically solve the situation with saving borscht and sausage. We can only hope for a prompt solution to the problem on the part of utility services.

Another task for which a UPS is indispensable is saving the computer and data on it in the event of a line failure. It is very advisable to provide a reserve of autonomous power supply if you often work using a PC (or carry out other operations such as storming enemy positions with tanks). Moreover, it will turn out quite inexpensively: if install only on a computer; in most cases, a UPS with a power of up to 300-500W is sufficient. But in terms of capacity, look at your needs - you will have time to complete the job correctly in 3-4 minutes, and to calmly complete the work task at hand, choose 30-40 minutes (look at the “autonomy at full load” indicator).

At the finish line - a new level of comfort and safety.

Now you will at least be able to speak the same language with the electrician, compare his recommendations and estimates with your own calculations and with a high probability you will make the wiring in the apartment really “for you.” As a maximum, by abandoning outdated methods of calculation and installation and installing electrical wiring in the apartment according to the proposed algorithm, you will receive decent bonuses:

• reliability and durability of the home power supply system,
• convenience of daily life as a result of detailed differentiation of lines - you can turn off any socket or lamp individually, otherwise without losing comfort,
• saving money, effort and time (mutually complementary parameters, right?),
• invulnerability of equipment to incoming lightning,
• Autonomous power supply for lighting and PC.

Do not forget that you cannot skimp on the quantity and quality of sockets, otherwise they will reduce the potential of the entire system. But now you know how to safely save on cables by rationally calculating its cross-section. Another important point: do not give in to the impulse to save money on the purchase of elements of your wiring by buying it on the market or in dubious shops. The risk of running into a fake is too high, and the consequences of automatic devices or RCDs that do not operate on time are very dire. Take the trouble to find officials; you can’t skimp on safe electricity.

Of course, you don’t have to bother and do everything standard, the old fashioned way. But you will overpay for the absolutely unnecessary (read: useless) thickness of copper in cables for lighting and sockets. Plus you will get a “short” shield for 5-6 machines, which is inconvenient.

Unfortunately, so far the percentage of projects with progressive electrical wiring is more than modest. Neither homeowners nor, most sadly, electricians have “matured.” And one of the biggest difficulties today is to find a master who not only acts according to an ingrained template (albeit with all responsibility and with his hands in the right place), but has his finger on the pulse of electrical and lighting technologies. But there are no hopeless situations, and when repairs are needed, there are at least two ways out:

1. hire a real professional “for all the money in the world” and set a clear task for him, so that it is with the latest technology;
2. understand the subtleties and nuances on your own (a start has already been made, since you have finished reading this article). To explain to the electrician what you want, on your fingers. And then carefully monitor each stage of the implementation of your dream project. In other words, stand above your soul and control every day what is done and how.

I hope that after reading this you are interested in trying to implement a project using the new capabilities and potential of modern lighting and electrical engineering. Wishing you easy and quick repairs and a comfortable life!

Nowadays, a huge number of devices run on electricity. Therefore, there is often a need to supply electricity to the apartment or repair electrical wiring. This is quite a complex task, and it is best to entrust it to a professional. However, people who pretend to be electrical experts do not always actually be such. Therefore, you often have to do the wiring yourself. This article will tell you about most of the intricacies of this matter. Electrical wiring in each room has its own characteristics, so there are no absolutely universal ways to do it. However, the main points of conducting electricity into the house are similar.

First you need to connect the input cable (the wire that carries electricity from the power line into the house) to the . The panel contains an electricity meter, various protection devices, for example, circuit breakers or voltage stabilizers. There is also a node on the distribution (electrical) panel from which wires go to all energy consumers in the house (lighting devices, sockets). Moreover, it is advisable to connect one wire to the sockets, and another to the lighting devices, since not all lamps are designed for the voltage that should be supplied to the socket. But most modern lamps can still operate with this voltage, so it is not necessary to distribute the wires. All consumers should be connected in parallel, otherwise if one device fails, all of them will not work.

The shield can be located in a niche or hang on the wall. Moreover, a shield is hung directly on the wall only as a last resort - when the house does not have a special recess for it. The optimal location of the distribution board is in the hallway, at a height of about one and a half meters. If you install the panel this way, then you will always have access to the panel devices for inspection and repair, and it will be convenient to take meter readings.

Hidden and open installation of wiring in an apartment

Wiring can be open or hidden. The latter is more convenient, because all the wires are hidden and do not spoil the appearance of the rooms. That is why it is used in most apartments. And it is done at the time of construction of the building - the wire is laid in a special protective “sleeve” under the drywall, and then the surface is plastered.

If you, and there is no wiring at all or it is open, and you want to make it hidden, then you must first make recesses in the wall about 2 centimeters deep, lay the wire in it and connect it to the energy consumer. However, you cannot lay short wires diagonally so that you do not have to use long ones - this is prohibited by safety regulations! The only correct option is vertical and horizontal wires.

It would be ideal to lay the wires in special protective sleeves, as is done in the construction of most houses - but this will greatly increase the cost of the work. Protective sleeves are expensive, but they allow you to replace the wire without disturbing the plaster. The wire can simply be pulled out of the sleeve, repaired or replaced, and then returned to its place. In addition, the protective sleeve will prevent the wire from being damaged ahead of time.

The input wire must have a cross-section of at least 6 square millimeters. It is usually made of copper, but sometimes aluminum is also found. Copper ones are much better, because their resistance is one and a half times less than the resistance of aluminum ones.

The wires that supply voltage to energy consumers can be thinner, and it will also be better if they are copper. It is also desirable if the wire is single-core in PVC insulation - it will oxidize noticeably slower than in the case of multi-core wire.

Special socket boxes must be installed in a recess in the wall - they should not stick out, otherwise it will cause a lot of trouble when installing the socket itself. The boxes are secured using alabaster, which can be found in hardware stores.

Electrical wiring in the apartment: automation to protect it

The distribution board must contain an RCD - a residual current device. It will protect the wires from overheating in the event of a significant increase in current. Nowadays, several RCDs are installed in the switchboard - this increases the cost of installing wires, but makes the electrical wiring in the house more reliable. This solution also helps to quickly and easily eliminate possible wire faults - without turning off the electricity in the entire house, you just need to turn off the current on the faulty line.

Wiring for electrical equipment

Each room in the apartment must be equipped with overhead lighting (these are sanitary standards), which can be accompanied by local lighting - a floor lamp, table lamp, etc.

In addition, each room should have at least one outlet; for a computer, you can either provide about five outlets on the wall or make just one, but in addition to it, buy an uninterruptible power supply with several outlets - the second method is more expensive, but it will not help lose data on your computer in the event of a sudden power outage. And in the kitchen these days there are many appliances that also require electrical power, so it is important to provide enough outlets for them.

Switches in any room should be located close to the door, at approximately your height, but in such a way that when the door is opened, access to the switch is free. The highest quality switches and sockets are on a ceramic base with copper contacts. A cable, also made of copper, under the VVGng brand, must be connected to the contacts. This cable has special insulation that prevents it from catching fire. Its thickness is about 2.5 mm, it has three wires - phase, neutral and ground.

Geometry of wiring in an apartment

Electrical wiring, as already mentioned, must be laid only along horizontal and vertical lines; there cannot be any diagonals. Despite this strict rule, wires are often laid along the shortest route, to save money or due to ignorance of even basic electrical installation rules.

Wiring geometry

This rule was not invented by chance. There are often situations when, after changing the layout of a room or carrying out repairs, you need to drill a hole, and the drill hits exactly the place where the wire is laid. Firstly, if the wires were not protected with a special protective sleeve during installation, you will have to remove all the plaster in the damaged area, repair the wire and return everything to its place, and this will take a lot of time, effort and money. Secondly, the high voltage of the wire can damage the tool and drill, and you can get an electric shock.

However, even if you ran the wires along the wall to the outlet not diagonally, but along a broken line, the same situation may arise. The only correct option for placing the wire on the wall is strictly vertical, the wire must end with a socket - in no case should you leave at least one branch of wires without an energy consumer - otherwise a short circuit will occur and a fire may start.

Vertically laid wires must be removed from door and window openings at a distance of at least 100 mm. Near heating pipes, the installation must be carried out at a distance of at least 150-200 mm; in case of perpendicular intersection, the electrical wiring must be protected with asbestos gaskets. Parallel installation near pipelines with flammable substances (gas) is carried out at a distance of at least 400 mm.

The wire must be removed from the base of the ceiling by at least 150mm - otherwise, if you make suspended ceilings, the wire may be inaccessible. Even if you do not plan to make a stretch or suspended ceiling now, it may be necessary later, and then you will have to redo everything, which will lead to additional time and effort.

How to install electrical wiring in a panel house correctly

Most often, in panel houses, electrical wiring to sockets is laid in special technical channels not vertically, but with a slope, on average at an angle of 45 0. But not always - sometimes the wires are laid vertically. This creates additional inconvenience when changing the position of the socket or switch - if you need to move them to another place, you need to make a small recess in the panel to recess the wiring, and run it vertically down or up from the old location of the switch or socket.

That is why, when buying an apartment in a panel house, it would be best to ask the seller for a diagram of the wires on the walls. If you at least roughly know how the cables run, the risk of bumping into them when drilling a wall will be reduced to zero.

How to lay electrical wiring in the floor and ceiling

In the event that you are making a suspended or suspended ceiling, wiring on the ceiling can be done in the shortest possible way, because you do not have to drill the ceiling. The cable can be anything, but it is best to use NYM - it is triple insulated and does not need additional protection - it does not support combustion. If you use VVG or VVGng cables, then they need PVC protection. Any type of wiring is attached to the main ceiling using dowel clamps.

Under the floor, wires can also be laid in any way, in special protective pipes or in PVC corrugation.

Distribution boxes should not be located either on the ceiling or under the floor - each cable must go from the electrical panel directly to the energy consumer. This requirement is due to the fact that if such a box is damaged, you will have to remove the entire floor or remove the suspended ceiling - there is simply no other way to get to it and repair it.

Safety during electrical installation work

When laying the cable, safety precautions must be observed. Firstly, under no circumstances should you engage in laying wires if they are live - with any careless movement, a person can receive an electric shock, which can even lead to death. Therefore, before carrying out work, it is simply necessary to de-energize the wires; it would be best to disconnect them from the distribution board. And you can connect the wires to the power supply only after all the work has been completed and each end of each cable is connected to an energy consumer. Secondly, the cables must be insulated - otherwise, if droplets of water remain on the wires, a short circuit may occur when they are connected to a power source.

All these actions can be performed by yourself, but, as we have already said, it will be better if they are carried out by qualified electricians who know all the rules for laying cables, as well as safety precautions.

Video: Electrical wiring - installation in an apartment

Having the skills of an electrician is valuable in the conditions of modern life, when negotiated prices are fundamental and can, in the event of an unforeseen accident in the apartment, significantly weaken the wallet due to their fairly high level.

Most people are known to limit their electrical knowledge to the simplest process of replacing a light bulb in a lamp. And only a meticulous few who strive to learn as much valuable information as possible master the theory and practice of electrical installation work.

In the future, when the question of how to install new wiring in an apartment becomes relevant, they do not need to decide whether to invite craftsmen or save money using their own skills.

The main risks if you want to carry out electrical work

There is an expression “to rent out an apartment turnkey”. The main essence of this concept is based on the complete implementation of all work, including electrical work, which is represented by typical wiring diagrams in an apartment.

And, since with such a standard implementation of the general range of finishing and installation processes, everything is carried out according to a single approved project, it is quite natural that upon moving in, residents have to make many changes to the layout, as well as to the order of placement of electrical points.

Some people are not satisfied with the quality of work, others want to change the template order and install everything in a new way, according to their own needs. This, in turn, requires additional expenses and considerable ones. But the apartment itself has already cost a huge amount and few people will like the extra expenses.

Replacing wiring in an old apartment

Almost the same picture emerges when it is necessary to carry out major repairs in an old apartment. In addition to all finishing work, replace old wiring with new wiring connected to modern sockets and switches.

But, if finishing the finishing yourself does not seem to be a particularly difficult task, then how to change the old wiring with your own hands without having the appropriate knowledge? Hard to imagine.

Work related to electricity has an increased degree of accuracy and if a mistake is made, this can lead not only to the stoppage of vital activities in the apartment (turning on the lights, operation of electrical appliances and various equipment), but also create risks for human life. This means you either need to be a specialist yourself, or invite qualified electricians.

You should not rely on your own strength and consider yourself a knowledgeable person in this area, just by watching a couple of educational videos on the Internet. This is not the case. Everything is much more serious here.

Only qualified specialists will carry out high-quality electrical installation work. They will determine which wires are used (for wiring) by requesting linear diagrams from the BTI, carefully groove the walls and ceilings without causing a short circuit, and perform all the necessary work according to the specific wishes of the residents. Right up to drawing a line to the shields.

Key points in home network planning

Despite all the precautions, there is one job related to the electrical installation process that can and should be done by apartment residents. This means drawing up a plan for laying a new network and determining the location of electrical points.

Only the owners of the apartment can draw up such a diagram and indicate on it the following points:

• Places where sockets and switches will be most conveniently located.
• The most suitable heights from the floor to the location of electrical points.
• The number of ceiling and wall lamps and areas for their fastening.
• Type of wiring (open or hidden) and so on.

It is important to approach this task very responsibly. Make diagrams separately for each room. Pay special attention to rooms with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen). You can take a photo of the wiring in an apartment found on the Internet as a sample, if the size and layout plans match.

Those who know how to work in special computer programs such as CAD can make clearer diagrams using the designations included in the program for various parts and elements directly related to electrical engineering. Their designations completely coincide with those officially approved. Such diagrams will be more understandable for professional electricians.

Be careful, children!

The main attention of young parents when solving the problem of replacing old wiring with new ones is focused on the safety of children. It is important for them that sometimes overly curious kids cannot accidentally harm themselves by becoming interested in electrical objects.

In such cases, closed sockets with special interlocks are purchased if they are installed in places accessible to children.

Wires are hidden in walls or in electrical boxes (if the wiring is open). The best option in modern living conditions is remote control of electricity using a remote control.

Techniques for conducting and hiding wiring in an apartment

The two most well-known methods of wiring in an apartment: hidden and open. The first, as stated above, involves grooved walls and ceilings.

At the same time, at the time of laying the wires in the grooves, for protection and to ensure the convenience of further work, the wiring is pulled through the corrugation. Having secured it in the recess along the entire line of the excavation, plastering work is carried out. Align the places where the corrugation is laid and then carry out the usual finishing work (putty and painting or wallpapering).

Unlike the hidden type, the open type is based on the visible distribution of wiring throughout the apartment. This method of arranging wires along surfaces can be used in the event that a certain old section of wiring is blocked or if it is necessary to carry out a specifically open form of electrical wiring.

Here, instead of corrugation, plastic electrical boxes (cable channels) of various sections are used, which are mounted on the surface of the walls vertically or horizontally. The wiring is located inside the cable.

Laying wires on the floor and ceiling

The open type of wiring and protection of wiring in apartments is not used as often as the hidden type. It is worth agreeing that, for example, wiring along the ceiling in an apartment looks much more advantageous when hidden, and the presence of too many cable channels can create a feeling of cramping in the apartment.

This method of electrical installation is more suitable for private houses, where this type of wiring is dictated by fire safety measures.

One of the options for the aesthetic design of open wiring is to run the wiring in the apartment along the floor. In this case, it is convenient to lay wires in hollow plastic skirting boards, which simultaneously serve as cable ducts.

The premises acquire external aesthetics. Most often, in this way, television wires or low current (telephone and computer wires) are hidden.

Photo of wiring in the apartment

It is impossible to imagine a modern apartment without electricity supply. But installing the wiring on your own is quite possible.

To do this, you will need to be patient and study a little about the methods and procedures for performing electrical work.

In this article we will tell you how to make, change or install (lay from scratch) electrical wiring from a panel in an apartment with your own hands.

The main regulatory document regulating the activities for the arrangement of electrical networks is Rules for the construction of electrical installations (PUE). Before you begin self-installation, you should familiarize yourself with the PUE and especially carefully study the sections related to the selection of equipment, installation rules and safety precautions.

Basic rules to follow when installing electrical wiring:

• , input panel, sockets and others key network elements are installed in easily accessible places.
• The switches are located on the side of the vestibule, inside the room. Installation height – 60-150 cm from the floor. Wires to switches are supplied from above.
• have at a height of at least 50 cm from the floor, the maximum permissible distance is 80 cm. Wires to sockets are supplied from below. Sockets must be located more than 50 cm from powerful current consumers, a gas stove and grounded elements related to other communications.
• Sockets are installed at the rate of 1 pc. for 6 m² of space, excluding the kitchen. In the kitchen, the number of sockets corresponds to the number of electrical appliances. Sockets cannot be installed in the toilet; the socket group in the bathroom is connected through a separate transformer, or a stationary extension cord with a plug is installed, which is plugged into one of the sockets in the kitchen as needed. In this case, it is advisable to separate it into a separate connection group.

• Wire routes must be strictly vertical or horizontal. Turns are made only at right angles. The location of all cables must be marked on the plan.
• Cable laying routes are located at a strictly defined distance from the load-bearing elements of the ceiling, pipes, and edges of openings.
• The wires are laid so that they do not come into contact with metal elements building structures.
• The distance between the wires laid in one channel is at least 3 mm, or each of them must have individual protection (channel or corrugation).
• Wiring and connections are carried out in junction boxes. All connections must be insulated; connections of copper and aluminum wires are not allowed.
• To attach protective and neutral conductors to devices, bolted connections are used.

Step-by-step wiring diagram

Let's take a closer look at how to make electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands. Proper design and thoughtful design is the key to the safety of apartment residents. In the process of developing a circuit, you can optimize the arrangement of internal network elements, correctly calculate the required amount of materials, and select the type of wire. Having a wiring diagram and plan will also protect you in case of future repairs, eliminating the risk of accidental damage during repairs.

For an example of a wiring diagram in an apartment with your own hands, see the photo:

If you lack experience at this stage, it is better to turn to qualified electricians, but it is quite possible to draw up a connection diagram yourself. The plan and calculation of the internal electrical network is subject to approval by the energy inspectorate, therefore, if there are serious errors, it will have to be redone.

How to properly organize electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands from scratch, watch the video:

To prepare the diagram you will need a drawing and apartment plan. The plan should indicate the expected location of furniture and large household appliances. Guided by the requirements of the PUE, lighting points, sockets and switches are marked on the drawing.

In modern practice connection is made in groups of points. In each room (except for the kitchen) there are two such groups: lighting and socket. In the kitchen there may be more connection groups, since some other powerful electrical appliances are recommended to be connected as a separate group.

To save materials, connection groups may look different:

• Lighting group of rooms, corridor and kitchen;
• Bathroom lighting group;
• Outlet group of the corridor and rooms;
• Kitchen outlet group;
• Electric stove.

If there is a heated floor system or other stationary heating electrical appliances, a separate connection group is provided for each of them.

At the wiring design stage, the power consumption and expected current in the network are calculated. This is necessary for correct and. When calculating the total power, absolutely all electrical appliances are taken into account available in the apartment, including a hairdryer and electric razor. The wiring must be able to withstand the simultaneous switching on of all current consumers. To determine the calculated current strength, the result obtained is divided by 220.

A residual current device must be installed on the highway to each connection group.

Tools and materials

To connect the apartment distribution panel to the main panel in houses with three-phase power supply, it is recommended cable VVG-5 with a cross section of 6 mm², in houses with two-phase power supply - two-core VVG-2 of a similar cross-section.

The lighting part of the wiring is made of wires VVG-3*1.5 (three-core, cross-section 1.5 mm²), for the socket part, a wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm² is recommended. To connect the electric stove, wires with a cross section of 4 mm² are used.

A 16 A RCD is installed in the panel for lighting wiring, 20 A for the socket group. A 32 A machine is installed on the branch for the electric stove, but if its power exceeds 7 kW, you will need a 63 A device.
The cable length is determined by simply measuring the distance from the switchboard to each connection point. About 4 meters of reserve are added to the final result. About a third of the resulting length goes to lighting, the rest is spent on connecting sockets.

The number of sockets, switches, junction boxes and other elements is calculated directly on the diagram. In addition, you will need socket boxes, terminal blocks, PPE caps, electrical tape, cable ducts, corrugations or boxes.

The toolkit includes:

• Grinder with a stone circle or wall chaser;
• Hammer;
• Bit;
• Phase indicator;
• Screwdrivers with insulated handles (phillips and slotted);
• Pliers;
• Wire cutters;
• Level;
• Portable lamp;
• Extension;
• Putty knife.

Marking and gating of walls

To mark, you will need a level, tape measure, chalk or construction pencil. In the places where the sockets are installed, draw 7x7 cm squares, if a double socket is to be installed, a rectangle 14 cm wide is drawn on the markings. Then cable routing routes are drawn on the wall in accordance with the plan.

Lastly, mark the location of the switches, marking them with squares, just like the sockets. 9x20 cm rectangles are drawn for distribution boxes.

The holes for sockets and switches are marked with a core drill, then grooves are cut along the marked lines with a grinder.

The depth of the groove is at least 20 mm, the width of the groove depends on the number of wires that must be laid in a particular area. All wires must fit completely freely.

After cutting the grooves, all that remains is to knock out the grooves and all the intended holes. Grilling is a labor-intensive, dirty and noisy process, work should be planned during working hours and neighbors should be notified in advance.

Laying wires and accessories

First of all, the RCD, the number of which corresponds to the number of connection groups. A piece of wire with a cross section of 5 mm² is inserted inside the shield. Blue - attached to zero, white - to the top contact of the machine, grounding (yellow with a green stripe) - to ground. The RCDs are connected in series with a piece of white wire.

It is recommended to start installing new wiring in an apartment with your own hands from the farthest connection point.

The wire is cut into pieces of the required length with allowance for connections, pulled into corrugations on the floor and then laid in grooves.

To connect sockets, a wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm² is used, from lighting fixtures and switches - 1.5 mm² wire. It is advisable to attach a tag to the end of each wire indicating the purpose and location of the connection group (point).

Wires in junction boxes are connected using PPE or simply well insulated. The main wire inside the panel is connected as follows: the blue conductor - to the neutral bus, the phase conductor, in red or brown insulation - to the RCD below, the grounding wire - to the ground below.

After this, the wiring is called and, if the installation is done correctly, all that remains is to call an electrician to connect it to the distribution board. How to properly install and lay electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands, you can watch further in the video:

All work is performed only with working tools, the handles of hand tools must be insulated. For additional protection, rubberized gloves are required; wall-shaping work is performed with safety glasses and a respirator. Grooving at height is done from a trestle or from a stepladder with a side support.

In this video, an experienced specialist will tell and show how to change the electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands:

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment is actually not such a labor-intensive and time-consuming process. For proper installation, it is enough to study the literature and familiarize yourself with the requirements and rules for carrying out the work. The development of modern technologies requires energy costs. Now the installation of modern electrical wiring is considered a pressing issue, because 35 years ago people did not use such a volume of electrical appliances. Today, every home has appliances such as a washing machine, microwave ovens, electric stoves, toasters, mixers, coffee grinders, coffee makers, steamers, baking devices, etc. Such devices are high-tech and require sufficient network voltage.

Laying cable wires includes the following stages:

• development of a plan indicating the localization points of the main elements;
• a list of necessary accessories to ensure high-quality completion of the scope of work;
• marking routes and preparing the surface of walls for conducting electricity into the apartment (grinding, cable channels);
• securing the cables;
• installation and fastening of materials;
• installation and assembly of the electrical panel structure;
• system testing;
• setup and launch.

Important: Technological modern interior design of apartments does not provide for the installation of electrical cables using an external method; they mainly use a hidden type.

General rules for electrical wiring

Many people are concerned about the question: “How to properly do electrical wiring with your own hands?” To do this you need to follow the rules:

1. The wires must be located in a vertical or horizontal position relative to the floor;
2. If the wires need to be turned, the turn must be made at an angle of 90 degrees;
3. At the top of the wall, the wires should be located at a distance of 25 centimeters from the ceiling. If the wires run along the bottom, then you will need special baseboards with channels for the wires;
4. The switches are placed next to the doorway at a distance from the floor of approximately 80 to 150 centimeters, depending on who uses the device most often (children or adults). The installation parameters of devices are regulated by SNiP rules;
5. Sockets are mounted at a height of 30 centimeters from the floor, the quantity is determined at the rate of 1 piece per 6 square meters. For the kitchen, the number of sockets depends on the number of electrical equipment. The gaps between sockets and door and window openings should be more than 10 centimeters;
6. An individual distribution box is installed in each room;
7. When drawing up design documentation, you need to take into account the placement of furniture in the apartment in order to eliminate interference from connecting cords to sockets;
8. The bathroom should have approximately 2 sockets: for a washing machine and a hair dryer.

Important: When working with the project, it is necessary to take into account the location of the 30 mA residual current devices. Ten mA devices are recommended for bathrooms.

Electrical wiring project for a three-room apartment

The scheme has several features:

1. For each room, it is mandatory to install a distribution box, from which cables are subsequently routed to electrical devices (sockets, etc.) located in the room;
2. In the kitchen you need to install three sockets above the countertop (stove, kettle, microwave oven), and one in the area where the refrigeration equipment is located. When drawing up a project with your own hands, you can easily take into account your needs, and if you need additional sockets for a hood, ventilation or dishwasher, etc., provide and mark this on the drawing;
3. If you need electricity on the loggia, then you need to provide on the diagram for cable wiring from the distribution box located in the next room.

It is best to place localization points on a copy of the apartment plan, which is attached to the technical passport of the apartment.

For the convenience of drawing up project documentation, it is recommended to divide electrical consumers into groups, for example:

• the first group of lighting will include light in the toilet, bathroom and living room;
• the second group will provide lighting for the bedroom, bathroom and children's rooms.

Electrical wiring diagram in a two-room apartment

In order to correctly distribute sockets, switches and boxes, you need to consider some points:

• for rational use of electrical wiring, it is necessary to divide consumers into several groups: lighting in the corridor and bathroom, the next group - in the living room, kitchen and bedroom;
• the height of sockets and switches in Khrushchev-era buildings is not standardized, so you can arrange them as convenient for you;
• there must be a distribution box in every room, except for the bathroom, since the humidity there is usually somewhat higher than in residential premises;
• if electricity is needed on the balcony, mark on the diagram the location of the distribution box in the room next to the balcony for the convenience of leading the wires to the balcony;
• An RCD and a circuit breaker are placed in the distribution board.

Selection of accessories and tools for electrical wiring

For proper electrical wiring, you need to determine the method of placing the cables, and accordingly, decide on the choice of the necessary additional materials:

• For lighting, VVG brand wires with a cross section of 1.5 square meters are used. mm, for sockets use a three-core cable with a cross-section of 2.5 square millimeters;
• residual current devices (RCDs) and circuit breakers. RCDs are used to protect the system from current leakage, and circuit breakers prevent short circuits;
• distribution boxes;
• The electrical panel is selected depending on the number of machines and RCDs. If you intend to mount a large number of elements, then you need to purchase a large shield. Based on their structure, metal and plastic structures are distinguished; experts advise installing metal ones, as they are more durable and last a long time;
• connecting insulating elements (PPE) – electrical tape, liquid nails, clips, dowels.

Installation of electrical wiring

Carrying it out in an apartment does not pose any particular difficulties; the main thing you need to know is the installation rules, as well as how to use the tool. At the initial stage, you need to decide on the chosen method of electrical wiring: external or hidden, using special channels.

The hidden method has recently become increasingly popular, although it is the most labor-intensive and dusty. To lay wires using a hidden method, walls are grooved, that is, channels approximately 10 millimeters deep are prepared on the surface of the wall. Wires are laid in them and then plastered.

Installation of electrical wiring in an apartment using the external method requires the use of a cable duct, electrical skirting boards and special boxes.

The secrets of the secret method of electrical wiring are that the walls need to be tapped; if you plan to lay wires along the floor, you will have to open the floor covering. The hidden method is usually used during major redevelopment and renovation of an apartment, when all rooms are free of furniture.

Use a wall chaser, hammer drill or grinder. The work is very dusty, so to prevent dust from entering neighboring rooms it is better to cover the passage with a damp cloth. The depth of the grooves is calculated in accordance with the wires used, but not more than 1 centimeter, since deep channels are difficult to plaster; the width can be different, at the discretion of the owner.

Rosette holes and openings for the distribution box are cut out using a crown of a certain design.

Important: In load-bearing walls, the depth of the channels must be taken with special consideration, since violation of the structure of such walls can lead to destruction.

In panel houses, there are cavities between the floors into which wires can be laid. Panel buildings are a thing of the past; today houses are built from integral, durable structures with brick floors; in such apartments, gating can be carried out on all walls.

An economical option for hidden electrical wiring is to lay the wires under the floor. In these cases, the wire must be masked with corrugated foil. The corrugation serves as insulation and protection against voltage surges.

After preparing the channels for the wires, install the distribution panel and lay the wires. Depending on the method of fastening, shield designs can be overhead or built into the wall surface. In houses of modern design, a special niche is adapted for the shield, and in houses of domestic construction, the shield is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws.

Circuit breakers and residual current devices are installed in the panel body. To do this, VVG brand wires are connected to the shield, and then they are routed to the lighting system, sockets and switches.

At the connection points, it is necessary to make an allowance for wires (approximately 20 centimeters) in case of repair work. When connecting wires to a distribution panel, experts recommend marking the wires in order to know exactly which one is responsible for what.

After completing a set of electrical wiring works, the system is tested. If the system is functioning at full capacity, then the installation is completed with the installation of electrical devices.

External installation is carried out on wall and ceiling surfaces. At the initial stage, it is necessary to outline the route for laying the wires and drill holes in the places where they are attached at intervals of 50 centimeters. At the request of the apartment owner, the wires can be laid in cable channels or clips. In places where the wires branch, distribution boxes are installed. The advantage of the open wiring method is that it provides easy access to the wires, but the only drawback is that such wiring does not always fit into the interior of the room.

Types of cable and wire fastenings for open wiring:

• porcelain rollers or insulators;
• staples;
• corrugated pipe;
• cable channels;
• electrical skirting boards.

Advantages of the open wiring method:

• ensuring easy accessibility to monitor the system status;
• most often used in wooden rooms.

The disadvantages are expressed by the following parameters:

• the location of wires in plain sight, which leads to a violation of the aesthetics of the interior;
• rarely combines with the design style of the rooms.

The final stage is the process of connecting to the electrical network; this requires the presence of electricians. Connection of meters can only be carried out by specialists with electrical clearance.

Laying out the electrical wiring route

Wires should be purchased with a margin of approximately 20 centimeters, since this allowance is used to connect the wires to each other. When connecting wires to sockets and switches, the wires are exposed approximately 7 centimeters on each side.

Then the electrical wiring is secured using clamps or loose alabaster. The wires are placed in the channels and secured with a lump of alabaster at a distance of 30 centimeters.

Important: It must be remembered that the alabaster mixture hardens almost instantly, so you need to first lay the wires in grooves, and then secure them with lumps of diluted alabaster. After fixing all the wires, take a photo of the laying route in case of repair work.

To install sockets and switches, socket boxes are installed in the prepared channels and secured with alabaster mortar. Alabaster quickly and firmly grips the equipment to the wall.

Installation of RCDs and automatic machines

The installation of the input panel is considered the final stage of electrical wiring in the apartment. Residual current devices and circuit breakers are installed in the switchboard housing. Wires for connecting the RCD are installed in the upper part of the panel.

After connecting all electrical devices, the entire system is dialed using a special device - a multimeter. If the entire system is installed correctly, then you can safely turn on the equipment and carry out tests.

Experts advise that before deciding to carry out electrical wiring, draw up a competent wiring plan, taking into account the planned interior changes or remodeling:

1. Roughly mark future changes in the layout of the apartment on the diagram;
2. Indicate the locations of sockets, switches, junction boxes and lighting fixtures.

Proper planning should ensure safe and comfortable use of electricity.

Specialist rules:

• all electrical devices (meters, junction boxes, lamps, switches and sockets) must occupy a convenient place for human use;
• lighting in the bathroom is carried out through an isolation transformer, which is mounted outside the room;
• sockets should be removed from gas, electric and water pipes at a distance of approximately 45-50 centimeters.

Conclusion

Electrical wiring in apartments most often occurs along the walls or ceiling and is not particularly difficult. After marking the places for laying the wires, drill holes for fastening while maintaining a distance of about 45 centimeters. Then boxes or cable channels are fixed to the wall or ceiling.

After all of the above work has been completed, the electrical wiring process can be considered complete. All that remains is to check the system and connect it. You can do electrical wiring in an apartment yourself without much difficulty if you follow all installation rules - from planning to connection. The electrical wiring system is checked in stages.