To the question How to make a table tennis racket spin well? given by the author Young SK the best answer is Unwind!
Answer from Bulat Gainutdinov[newbie]
The rotation of the ball depends on the quality of the material of the racket pad (there is a special indicator - rotation), you also need to pay attention to the technique of performing the strike... by the way, for girls it is much more dangerous to strike not with rotation, but with the flat... And in order to train faster spin kick - you need to spin the wheel and twist kicks with a partner + think that the grip was better
Answer from Artem Satdarov[newbie]
The rotation of the ball depends on the quality of the material of the racket pad (there is a special indicator - rotation), you also need to pay attention to the technique of performing the strike... by the way, for girls it is much more dangerous to strike not with rotation, but with the flat... And in order to train faster spin kick - you need to spin the wheel and twist kicks with a partner
Answer from Beaver[guru]
buy Spinlord Irbis pads
and the foundation plays no small role
Andro Super Core Cell OFF+ 
Answer from Artem Voistrik[newbie]
My racket was spinning and then it lay there and still wouldn’t spin, what should I do?
Answer from Aviel Krutinsky[guru]
Attention is the correct answer. The answer is given out of spite to greedy rubber manufacturers who buy the opinion of ping-pong stars that rubbers need to be changed regularly (a lie, a tryst and a provocation)!
Do all operations with your fingers (palm), no brushes or toothbrushes!
1. Soap the racket pads with liquid soap.
2. First wetting your hand in water, wash the soap from the pads several times until they are clean.
3. Then dry the pads - also by hand - wipe off the moisture, wipe your hand, wipe off the moisture again, wipe your hand again - until a very thin layer of moisture remains - let it dry on its own.
4. Rub the rubber with a softener - and here various methods are already known, which only arch-cool professional players (but not hamsters) know, and, moreover, they themselves experiment on the rubbers in search of their “philosopher’s stone” of the ideal spin. So - I know several chemicals. means that are used to increase the twisting effect. The most frivolous reagent is sunflower oil. More serious is motor mineral. Even more serious is a children's neutral oil for the skin (the arch-great gurus of the world's tops tell them they cover their rackets with an airbrush in several layers, and then don't even wash them off before the game). An even more serious remedy is penetrating silicone (about the same as what is pumped into shoe sponges - just don’t rub the shoe lining with a shoe sponge). An even more serious remedy is a special automotive restorer-softener for oil seals and rubber bands - this is generally just a “demonic remedy” - the racket begins to pull so charged that the opponent capitulates purely psychologically at the very first serves, when the ball flies in the air in a zigzag. Some also use car spray to blacken wheels. As for me, I occasionally “encourage” the linings with thick transmission oil (I just did this again, and not because the lining doesn’t turn at all, but because I want much more). So, apply it with your fingers and place it (for example, in a glass), or hang the racket vertically (so that the pads don’t touch anything) for 5 hours.
5. Depending on the type of softener used (whether it dried itself or not - or what the author of the experiment intended) - leave it as is, or rinse and dry using the same method as indicated in the first paragraphs.
Personally, I recommend washing the racket using the method indicated in the first paragraphs after each game. I don’t care about the opinion of the “professionals” participating in the conspiracy of companies producing pads that pads need to be changed every month/week/day... Whoever has a sponsor in the form of some manufacturing company - let them give him new ones pads at least 2 times a day. And for ordinary people, the described method of restoring rubber works amazingly. Moreover - I’ll be honest - you can play with some rubbers (if they were initially good - branded ones, although many are Chinese - nothing) for years, and restore them multiple times.
The same method (both flushing and increasing the torque factor) is ideal for spikes. The spikes should also be washed and softened - the effect is felt immediately. The only difference is that operations with studded pads are carried out with a painting brush.
Good luck and victories to all.
Answer from Black Heart[guru]
buy new pads
Answer from Denis Bedenko[guru]
The pads need to be changed.
If someone is thinking of making a homemade table tennis blade, two ready-made templates may be useful. Not so, as it turned out, brands have complex patterns. Essentially, the base can be drawn with circular arcs. My first experience was with the TSP Balsa/GlassFiber 6.5 mm base template (the 5.5 mm has the same template). I simply traced the base with a pencil, placing it on a piece of paper, and then used a compass to pick up the pieces of the circles. After that, it’s just a matter of carefully documenting everything. The second template is the base from Butterfly Timo Boll ALC.
You can open in a new tab and see the full size
Unfortunately, I was unable to make a pdf that would retain the dimensions of the drawing when printed. But, anyway, the next step should be to transfer the drawing onto the template itself, which can be made from some thin durable plastic. I used foil fiberglass laminate 1 mm thick.
Making a table tennis base at home is not at all difficult. There would be something to make from. The only minimum tools you need are a hacksaw (can be used for metal), a sharp knife and all sorts of skins. You can glue the layers without a press, placing them between two even pieces of chipboard (you need to place a thin piece of foam rubber or polyethylene foam packaging for uniform pressure) and pressing the entire cake with a bucket of water. It turns out very well. Titebond (II) glue for wood, there are several types, any will do. To make the end of the racket strictly perpendicular, it is advisable to build a “perpendicular file” - attach a metal corner to a piece of plexiglass and clamp sandpaper under the same corner. Then use it by pressing the plane of the blade against the plexiglass
Two years ago I bought balsa for the central layers and birch plywood at the Termic store. Now you can order the desired “pie” at Aerobalsa, made from abacha, balsa, both together, and even from poplar. I assume that if you contact the owner of the company, then walnut or mahogany veneer can be glued onto the cake to order. Carbon fabric is also available in the catalogue. The difficulty is that you need to determine the thickness and weight in advance. This may require several iterations, which is troublesome. And so, offhand, five-layer abacha plywood 6 mm thick is a ready-made Donic Baum SawTec base :-) without cheeks.
Results:
Balsa comes in different hardness and density. The hardest and densest balsa covers the lower limit of the density of abacha (ayous). Therefore, if you have dense balsa, you can make the entire racket from balsa. It will be light and slow. Below is a sample. In addition to the birch aircraft plywood, the Thermik store bought three-layer and fairly dense balsa plywood (Graupner). The result is a fully functional lightweight (75 g) base, with a thickness of 9.5 mm - not at all flexible, with a very soft rebound. In terms of speed - ALL, and in terms of meaning - DEF.
Another sample is a 15-layer base. The inner layers (9 pcs = 3x3) are the already mentioned three-layer balsa plywood, and the outer layer is three-layer thin aviation birch plywood. While reading some website about tree species, I think I saw a phrase that birch is not much different from limba. The base turned out to be heavy (110 g), but the speed is OFF+. TSP Balsa 6.5 is faster, but TSP Balsa 8.5 is slower. The thickness of the blade is 9.5 mm, so there is zero flexibility, but the rebound is soft, the base is not glass.
And a couple more reasons, to complete the picture. UM-5 - the speed is somewhere at ALL++/OFF-, the rest is written on the photo.
UM-6, handle wrapped in leather. OFF-/ OFF.
UM-6 9-layer base, this is not a mistake. It uses 2mm 4-ply birch aircraft plywood. According to the rules (or GOSTs), if plywood has an even number of layers, the inner layers are glued together with fibers in one direction (and not at 90 degrees).
Here I must honestly admit that in fact I did not really study the properties of my homemade balsa bases. There was always something more urgent to try, so I hardly played with these blades. The exception is the last base UM-6, which has a handle with a winding. With the LKT PRO XT on the left and PRO XP, I got something so controllable (with good OFF-/OFF speed) that I played for a couple of months and then came back to compare with other (branded) blades. It's as if the racket has short spikes glued on it - the ball can be directed to any point. However, the base turned out to be heavy, so the cavity and template in the handle were smaller than the standard one - I made it as light as I could. All these bases - by design - are absolutely not for rotation. They are for blocks and flat shots. Or under a short spike.
If you are not a professional athlete and have no one to consult with, then making a racket yourself can be quite difficult. With our instructions, you can easily assemble it yourself.
Two methods for assembling a racket.
There are two most popular assembly methods. There are no particular differences between them. The only difference is that in the first case, all the pads along the base are cut off first, after which the glue is applied. In the second case, the overlays are first glued to the base, and then the edges are cut off. Both assembly methods have their pros and cons. So, let's take a closer look at all the details. Method one. Prepare the base, two pads, one tube of quick glue, a utility knife and tape. For the second method you will also need a base, two pads, a tube of quick glue, a sponge, a knife and end tape. Place the pad on the base. Press it firmly with your hand, and then trim off any unnecessary edges. You can make a racket alone, or you can enlist the help of a partner. Behind
Then you should apply glue to the sponge. Distribute the glue over the entire surface area. Make sure it lays down evenly. Because The glue dries quite quickly, so it is better to do this procedure as quickly as possible. Don't apply too much glue. It is better to apply a thin but even layer. Wait until the glue is absorbed. To do this you will need to wait a couple of minutes. The sponge should appear dry. After that, let's move on to the foundation. We also apply glue to the base and then let it soak. Once the glue has soaked in, the base should look completely dry. Glue the overlay onto the base, only very carefully. Iron the decal firmly onto the base. That's it, the overlay is ready.
The same procedure must be carried out with the second overlay. Apply a thin layer of glue, let it soak in and glue the second overlay. The tennis racket is almost ready. Apply end tape around the entire perimeter.
That's it, she's ready. It turns out that the question of how to make a table tennis racket yourself is not so difficult. It is only important to know in what order everything should be done.
A table tennis racket is a purely individual sports equipment, which is selected depending on the player’s style.
To get the ideal professional racket that meets the needs of a tennis player, you should opt for prefabricated options.
Such a racket consists of a base and separate rubber pads, which, depending on the density and thickness of the material, have different speed characteristics.
We will tell you how to properly assemble a new ping pong racket and how to restore the rubbers on a tennis racket in this article.
Choosing the best glue for tennis racket pads
In sports stores you can find special types of glue for gluing rubbers to the base of the racket. All of them cope with the responsibilities assigned to them, however, there are special nuances that you should pay attention to when choosing glue for assembling a professional racket.
The fact is that the International Table Tennis Federation (ITTF) imposes certain requirements not only on the rubber material itself, but also on the adhesive composition.
In particular, it is prohibited to use toxic types of glue at official international and domestic competitions (participants' rackets are checked for toxicity with a special device).
In this regard, representatives of the sports federation have no complaints about water-based glue for table tennis.
Among the most popular brands of environmentally friendly glue are the following:
Tibhar CLEAN FIX is a special water-based express glue. It contains no toxic solvents, and the adhesive fully complies with ITTF requirements.
It is used for long-term gluing of rubbers of any type, however, if necessary, the rubber can be easily separated from the base in order to assemble the racket for new needs.
A small bottle with a volume of 25 milliliters (costs about 650 rubles) is enough for several gluings, since glue consumption is minimal (applying one thin layer is enough for gluing). Drying time for Clean Fix express adhesive is 5 minutes.
Joola X-Glue Green Power is a water-based fast glue that meets all the requirements of the International Table Tennis Federation. Reliably glues any pads to the base of a tennis racket.
Elastic fixation (the glue remains sticky after drying) allows, if necessary, to remove the overlay without damaging the base and sponge. The kit already includes foam swabs for applying glue and a convenient clip holder so you don’t get your hands dirty when doing the work.
Immediately after gluing, the product is ready for use. Joola X-Glue Green Power is available in small 37 ml bottles. Costs about 800 rubles.
Butterfly Free Chack is another ITTF approved adhesive. As with Joola X-Glue, the kit includes foam swabs and a clip holder for convenient application of glue to the base and overlays.
Water-based glue will firmly glue the pads to the base of the tennis racket, and subsequently allow you to carefully remove them for replacement. Butterfly Free Chack is available in 37 and 90 ml packs. The price for 37 ml is about 700 rubles.
All of the above types of glue are not cheap. If the racket will not be used in serious competitions, then the most common rubber glue for table tennis rackets will be suitable for gluing the pads. Universal glue is sold in a hardware store and costs about 50-70 rubles.
Step-by-step instructions - how to glue pads to a tennis racket
To begin with, it should be noted that the rubber can only be replaced on a professional assembled racket. The finished equipment has a completely different glue and the pads are “tightly” attached to the base.
Usually, there are no difficulties with dismantling the old working surface; you just need to be patient and do the work slowly and as carefully as possible.
To make the dried glue softer and more pliable, experienced tennis players recommend slightly warming up the surface with a regular household hairdryer - this will make removing the old pad from the tennis racket much easier.
To glue the overlays you will need the following materials and tools:
- glue;
- sponge for applying glue (if not included);
- a special roller for rolling (or rolling pin);
- sharp stationery knife or blade.
Step by step we glue the pad onto the racket 
The result of gluing the pad to a table tennis racket To ensure high quality glue pads onto a tennis racket, we recommend using step-by-step instructions (using the example of working with water-based glue):
- Apply a small amount of glue to the base of the racket and spread evenly;
- Apply the same layer of glue to the inner surface of the pad;
- Wait for the glue to dry completely (a barely noticeable film will appear on the surface);
- Place the rubber on the base of the racket, starting from the handle side, and straighten it carefully;
- Roll out the overlay with a special roller or a regular rolling pin (without strong pressure);
- Trim off excess material with a razor blade or sharp utility knife;
The racket is ready to use!
VIDEO INSTRUCTION
Tips for choosing overlays. Players who master a wide arsenal of technical techniques are very demanding on the quality of the working surface of a tennis racket.
Softer rubbers are suitable for a calm defensive style, hard ones for an aggressive attacker. Rubbers are often selected using a trial method, since the base of the racket is designed for long-term use.
Recommendations for gluing. There is no need to apply a very thick layer of glue. In most cases, one thin layer of adhesive is sufficient to achieve a strong connection. In this case, it will be much easier to remove the cover for replacement.
The included sponge applicators are for one-time use only, do not attempt to clean them.
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