In private construction, situations quite often arise in which it is impossible or not entirely convenient to use reinforced concrete floors. Such cases include installation of ceilings on a frame-panel or wooden house.

Wooden floors are used quite often, even if ordinary building bricks are used as the wall material.

In general terms, a wooden floor consists of bars, inter-beam filling, rolling, and a finishing layer. A wooden floor is much lighter than concrete slabs or monolithic pouring; it can be done with your own hands and does not create a significant load on the foundation and walls.

Types of wooden floors

Quite often, developers build houses with an attic or a basement, houses with several floors. All rooms of the house must be separated from the main living area by a ceiling.

According to its purpose, wooden floors in a brick house are divided into the following types:

basement or basement. It serves to separate the residential floor from the basement. The main requirement for it is good thermal protection;
attic, which serves to separate the residential floor from the attic. It should also retain heat and not be affected by condensation. Therefore, when installing thermal insulation for the attic floor, a vapor barrier layer must be used;
interfloor, which serves to separate residential floors. The main requirement for it is good sound insulation.

Selection of beams for flooring

There are several types of wooden beams:

from solid timber;

knocked down from boards;

from round wood.

Beams made of timber

This building material is used most often; the main advantage is its affordable price and environmental friendliness. The main disadvantage is the fact that most often the timber is made from the core of the tree, which is inferior in density to the outer layers. Because of this, the timber may sag, which is extremely undesirable.

A separate type of timber is laminated veneer lumber. In terms of its load capacity, it is significantly superior to a solid one. The production of such timber is possible according to individual sizes, which can significantly save time on its fitting and installation.

Beams made from boards

Round timber beams

Note! A high-quality wooden floor should be made of dry coniferous wood. Only in this case will you have complete confidence that the ceiling will not be susceptible to rotting if installed and used correctly.

You can find out the cross-section of the beam and the required interaxle distance from the table:

Beam dimensions, mm	Span length
	Span length

Beams for basement and interfloor ceilings

140*180
150*200
160*220

50*160
50*200
80*180
Beams for attic floors
Beams Distance between beam centers
140*180
150*200
160*220
Boards Distance between beam centers
50*160
50*200
80*180

The procedure for installing floors

Instructions for proper installation are as follows:

When constructing the external walls of a house, special niches with a depth of 150-200 mm are left in them. Very often, double silicate brick m 150 is chosen as a modern material for walls, which is convenient to work with;

prepare the beams for laying in niches, treat the ends with bitumen mastic or wrap them in several layers of roofing material;

the ends of the beams are not treated, this is necessary to remove moisture from the wood;
if necessary, treat them with a fire-resistant agent and an antiseptic;
lay the beams in the niches. It should be borne in mind that the supporting part must be 120-180 mm long to ensure a gap between the beam and the wall of 20-30 mm;

every 3-4 beams are secured from below or to the side with anchors;

fill the niche with insulation;

bars 50 by 50 mm or 40 by 40 mm are sewn to the side of the supporting beams;

wooden panels or lightweight concrete panels are attached to these bars;

the space below is covered with boards, panels or sheets of plasterboard;
A layer of insulation is laid on top of the wooden panels. In attics, a clay-sand layer is often used, then a layer of dry sand or slag.

Note! The thickness of the layer of any material for interfloor coverings should be at least 100 mm, and for attic and basement floors it should be about 200-250 mm.

punch the logs across, at a distance of 50-70 cm;
planed boards are secured to the joists;
sometimes, instead of wooden logs and boards, a reinforcing mesh is fixed and a concrete screed is made;
perform final finishing of the floor and ceiling.

The improvement of private houses makes it possible to implement a non-standard approach and create a ceiling so that it complements and emphasizes the style of the premises and landscape created by the owners. What is possible for private properties is impossible for apartments. Therefore, the modern owner always has a desire to move away from standard solutions.

Options for installing a ceiling in a private house

rough ceiling;
vapor barrier;
waterproofing;
insulation (often also a sound insulator);
finished ceiling.

Regardless of the type of floor, wooden or concrete, the ceiling is installed using the same methods. The only difference is the method of joining the materials. In the case of a concrete slab, pre-drilling holes and installing dowels are necessary. With a wooden floor, everything is much simpler: self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, nails and a hammer are used for fastening.

There are three options for installing a ceiling in a private house:

hemmed;
grazing;
panel.

When choosing an installation option, you need to decide whether the ceiling will be additionally sheathed with finishing materials, or those that are guaranteed to provide the room with aesthetic appeal will be immediately used. In the second case, we are talking about wood: boards, beams, slats. It can highlight the special flavor of a private home and is suitable for any type of floor.

Choosing wood

When choosing wood, you should not focus on its strength. Oak boards are good for flooring. Inexpensive conifers with a beautiful texture are optimal for the ceiling. Others are also suitable: birch, poplar, maple, ash. It is important to pay attention to the type and class of wood.

Class "A" or selected grade. The material is without visible flaws, the surface is smooth and even, a small number of knots is acceptable;
Class "B" or 1st grade. Wood of this class has small but visually noticeable defects: knots, cracks, gouges;
Class "C" or 2nd grade. The surface is rough, there are knots with a diameter of up to 2 cm, cracks up to 1/3 of the length of the lumber are acceptable;
Class "D" or 3rd grade. Wood of this class is of low quality and is not considered as a material for ceiling construction in a private home.

If there is a need to save money, you can do the following: purchase wood of a lower grade (but not lower than 2nd grade), apply several layers of an antiseptic solution to it, and cover it with a tinting composition. This approach will increase the service life of the wood, emphasize its texture and partially hide imperfections. The type and quantity of lumber (boards, timber) is selected depending on which ceiling installation option will be used.

Type of wood	Tensile strength, MPa	Compressive strength limits, MPa	Average density, (kg/m3)
Spruce	125	44	550
Larch	120	62	660
Pine	110	48	500
Birch	125	55	630
Beech	130	56	670
Oak	130	68	700
Aspen	120	42	480

false ceiling easier and faster to do than floor and panel ones. Devices of this design will require boards and timber. The latter will act as beams to which the finished finishing ceiling will be attached. The wider the boards, the more brutal the ceiling will look. Knots and natural protrusions of wood will give the room a special “rustic” flavor.

For an economical option for hemming, an edged board 25-30 cm wide is suitable. Such lumber will not sag even if the step between the beams is more than 2 m. Any wood tends to accumulate moisture, which inevitably increases the weight of the hemming. This is taken into account when choosing lumber and do not buy boards thicker than 4 cm.

The section of the beam is chosen depending on what is located above the ceiling: an attic, a residential attic or a room.

The decisive factor is the need for insulation. If there is an unheated attic space above the ceiling, for regions with cold winters a layer of insulation of at least 20 cm is required. For southern regions, 10 cm is sufficient.

Mineral wool or polystyrene foam is traditionally chosen as a heat insulator. Bulk materials are not suitable for installing a ceiling from inside a living space. Expanded clay, sawdust, and foam granules can only be used if the floor insulation is done from the attic side. But the technology for installing a false ceiling does not provide for such actions.

Instead of boards, you can use moisture-resistant plywood or OSB boards. However, such a ceiling will be more expensive, since it will require the purchase of finishing materials.

Rules for installing a false ceiling

Beams can be an integral element of a wooden upper floor or installed on an already formed surface. In the second case, the timber is fastened using metal corners, studs and staples.
The optimal pitch between beams is 2 m.
The boards are alternately attached to the timber using long nails or wood screws.
The fasteners are installed “in space”: at an angle of 45° to the edge of the board.
The insulation is placed in the openings between the beams on the laid vapor barrier layer.
After laying the insulation, stretch the vapor barrier membrane and secure it with staples and a construction stapler.

The gap between the insulation and waterproofing will improve the characteristics of the insulation pie
If there is an attic above the top floor, it is recommended to use a vapor barrier with a foil layer: Penofol, Armofol, Alucraft. These materials provide the effect of reflecting heat and returning it back to the living space.

If the boards are laid on top of the floor beams, the timber will remain visible. This is a spectacular, often used technique for decorating a ceiling in a private home. In such a room there is a special flavor of a solid and stylish structure. This design is fully consistent with rustic, hunting or Scandinavian styles.

Installation of a flat ceiling

Flat ceilings are suitable for landscaping small rooms. The reason is in the design features, the load-bearing elements of which are attached not to the upper ceiling, but to the walls of the room. Since a supporting frame is not provided, there are restrictions on the distance between the supporting beams of no more than 2.5 m. Therefore, flat ceilings are the best choice for the improvement of bathhouses, utility rooms, and small-sized living rooms.

“Pie” of the floor ceiling (from top to bottom):

Rough ceiling.
Thermal insulator (mineral wool or polystyrene foam).
Foil vapor barrier.
Clean ceiling.

An important point: if two-layer polypropylene vapor barrier membranes such as “Izospan B” or “Ondutis” are used, these films are laid before laying the heat insulator. When installing a vapor barrier, pay attention to which side to lay it on. The front side is always indicated on the membranes. It can also be distinguished by the fact that it is smoother.

Which side should the Izospan be attached to?

Floor ceiling installation technology

First of all, load-bearing structural elements are installed: beams. Since they bear the main load, lumber is carefully selected. As beams, you can use boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm or timber with a section of 10/10 cm, 10/5 cm, 10/15 cm. Metal corners will be required for fastening to the walls. In addition to the above, you will need the following materials:

vapor barrier (for small rooms, paper-based aluminum foil, kraft paper, and drying oil-impregnated cardboard are suitable);
mounting tape, which will be used to glue the joints of the vapor barrier panels;
heat insulator: fibrous materials (Ursa, Rockwool, Knauf, Izover, Uteplit, Ecowool, etc.) or polystyrene foam;
slats;
nails, screws.

Stages of work on installing a flat ceiling

Determine the height of the finished ceiling and mark the attachment points of the timber on the walls of the room.
The beams are installed at the required height. For fastening, staples or corners are used.
At the next stage, two options for installing the ceiling are possible: with the installation of unedged boards along the lines of the beams, or without installing this lumber. If the upper floor requires reinforcement, then installation of intermediate boards is necessary.
Vapor barrier and insulation are installed.

Insulation of the floor using a vapor barrier layer
The lining boards are hemmed, which subsequently form the finished ceiling. There must be a ventilation gap of at least 1 cm between the sheathing and the insulation.

Instead of boards, when installing a floor ceiling, wooden lining is often used. This way you get a beautiful modern finish to the room.

Video - Floor ceiling made of unedged boards

Installation of a panel ceiling in a private house

Panel ceiling is a universal design that is suitable for landscaping any type of premises. The name “panel” does not imply the installation of plastic or other panels, but the installation of pre-assembled boards from boards. Placed next to each other, they form the base of the finished ceiling. Such structures also have a second name: “panelboard”.

Before starting work, lumber is prepared. Each beam and board is inspected for rot, treated with an antiseptic and dried well. If there are cracks, they are covered with wood putty.

Panel ceilings are often rough and need to be finished. There is one requirement for such structures: the surface of the boards on the room side must be flat. Panels are assembled in any convenient place, but most often on floor beams during the construction of a house.

With this type of ceiling arrangement, rectangular beams are used as floor beams, to the underside of which cranial bars with a cross section of 4/4 cm or 4/5 cm are nailed. The thickness of the board should correspond to the size of one of the sides of the bar. Each panel is a row of boards, the length of which is equal to the distance between the cranial bars. At the top of the shield, thinner bars are nailed perpendicular to the direction of the boards. The bottom of the panel remains flat and smooth.

Each shield is placed in the openings between the beams so that it is supported by cranial bars. When viewed from above, such a ceiling consists of a series of cells, the recesses of which are filled with heat-insulating material. This can be expanded clay, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, sawdust.

Before laying the heat insulator, all the resulting “boxes” are covered with vapor barrier material so that the floor beams are also covered. In this case, the film sheets (membranes) are laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

If the ceiling is interfloor, boards are sewn on top of the beams to form a subfloor. If the ceiling is of the attic type, a backfill heat insulator is most often used and can be left open. The thickness of the backfill depends on how severe the climatic conditions of the region of residence are. Panel ceilings are built not only in private homes, but also in bathhouses, utility rooms, and country houses.

Video - How and with what to insulate a ceiling in a private house

Video - Ceiling installation in a private house

Creating beauty and comfort in a living space is not an easy task. Naturally, no renovation is complete without finishing the ceiling surface. Friends, experienced builders, or materials from printed and online publications can provide something to be proud of later.

Instead of whitewashing or leveling with plaster in the old fashioned way, you can cover the ceiling in a house with a wide variety of materials: it can be plastic, wood, plasterboard.

Many cladding jobs can be handled without the help of specialists, and therefore you can save a lot. The main thing is a reasonable approach to such a matter.

Different buildings, be it a city apartment or a private country house, can have completely different ceiling heights. Based on the height of the ceiling in your house, you choose the appropriate option for covering.

Photo 1 - Ceiling in a country house in the living room interior 2.5 meters high

Ceiling height in a private house

A private home is the dream of many people, because it is there that one can create personal space the way it should be. As for the height of the ceilings in a private house, it’s already lucky: you either have to come to terms with the existing height if you buy a house, or you can make the most of your financial opportunities by creating high ceilings.

Now a little about the standard and maximum ceiling heights. Standard ceiling height in private homes is a practically non-existent concept. If in a Khrushchev building people live even at 2.20 m, then in a private house few people drive themselves into a box.

When copying a city apartment project, the standard ceiling height of a private house can be 2 m 85 cm. This is almost the optimal ceiling height, if you do not intend to implement complex architectural ideas.

With such ceilings it’s convenient to replace a light bulb and you won’t be scratching your head on the whitewash.

The ceiling can be a real decoration for an apartment or house; you just need to choose the technology for covering it that will be most appropriate. Thanks to ceiling finishing work, you can visually make the ceiling even higher, expanding the room at the same time, or you can, due to your inexperience or the need, reduce it.

Before you start covering the ceiling, it is important to consider what the ceiling is made of - foam blocks, wood, concrete. Reason: Each of these materials requires different preparatory work.

Visually, without interfering with the structure of the building, the ceiling height is increased by the use of light ceiling materials, or glossy or mirrored ceilings (expansion of space due to the reflection of light by ceiling coverings).

IMPORTANT! Cases when the ceiling does not need to be raised, but rather lowered, are far from uncommon in private homes. Reason: rooms with high ceilings are more difficult and expensive to heat. Plasterboard ceilings and well-organized thermal insulation can help in this situation.

Ceiling in a village house

Photo 2 - Ceiling in a village house. Kitchen. Height 2.6 meters

The height of the ceilings usually did not exceed 2.30 cm. One could even say that the low ceilings gave such houses a special rustic coziness.

Ceiling in a country house

Photo 3 - Ceiling in a country house in a bedroom interior 2.5 meters high

Photo 4 - Design option for a high Stalinist ceiling

Stalin's houses were designed in the 1930s - 1950s, and were built in the neoclassical style. They always attracted the eye. The big advantage of such “Stalin” buildings was the ceilings, the standard of which was from 2.9 m to 3.2 m.

Photo 5 - The ceiling in a log house in the bedroom interior is 2.6 meters high

A wooden house is the dream of many modern people and therefore the demand for the construction of such houses is extremely high. The ceilings in such houses are built high enough to give such a structure a certain majesty. In general, if you build a wooden house, then only with high ceilings. The minimum ceiling height in such structures usually remains 2.6 m.

Ceiling in a frame house

Photo 6 - Installing a ceiling in a frame house. Kitchen. Height 2.8 meters

A frame house is an easily erected structure that is very popular in Germany, Scandinavia, and the USA. Often such houses are built on two or three floors and are private. And private owners even prefer to have different heights on each floor. For example, on the first - 2.8 m, on the second - 2.5 m and on the third - only 1.5 m.

Ceiling in a house made of timber

Houses made of timber are modern wooden, environmentally friendly structures that are extremely popular and have roots in the Scandinavian countries. A convenient and quick option for building buildings is a house made of laminated veneer lumber. The assembly of such a house occurs quite quickly, and the result will not leave you indifferent. The height of the ceilings in such houses depends on the wishes of the client.

Photo 7 - In modern monolithic houses you can create a luxurious, expensive interior

Monolithic houses are the face of a modern city. They gained their popularity due to the speed and ease of construction. The height of such ceilings is usually never less than 3 meters.

Ceiling in a brick house

Brick houses were the most popular type of residential buildings in the 80s - 90s of the last century. Standard ceiling heights are from 2.5 m to 2.6 m.

The ceiling should be in harmony with the walls and floor of the room, so it should be done taking into account the characteristics of the room. Yes, and the design of the ceiling may differ in technology, also depending on whether the house is, for example, monolithic or wooden; in these cases, it is important to create a harmonious design.

Materials, cost and features of work using the example of finishing a ceiling in a wooden house

Options for materials required for finishing the ceiling:

plaster;
drywall;
tree;
lining;
veneer panels;
solid ceiling;
false ceiling;

Plaster

Plastering the ceiling remains one of the most popular options.

Plaster is sold in bags of 20, 25 and 30 kg. The cost (per 30 kg) ranges from 5.25 to 39 USD. At the same time, there are several types of putty: starting putty, finishing putty, putty for leveling the surface. The most economical option is a universal putty that combines the properties of starting and finishing.

The cost of plastering the ceiling depends on the master and looks like this: from 0.15 to 8.80 USD. per sq.m.

Drywall

Drywall is a convenient and relatively inexpensive material.

Sold in sheets 2 to 3 meters wide. Cost from 5.60 to 22.50 USD. for one sheet.

Cost of work: from 0.15 to 125 USD. per sq.m. depending on the installation company and the complexity of the ceiling.

Wooden ceiling

One of the most expensive ceiling design options. A hanging wooden slab measuring 600x600 costs about 12 USD.

Installation of such a ceiling costs about 6.50 USD per sq.m.

Lining

The cost of the lining depends on its style, width and manufacturer. On average - from 1.80 to 22.50 USD per sq.m.

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Ceiling in a private house: 13 steps to comfort and practicality

This article is about how to make a ceiling in a private house. In it I am going to touch upon the problems of choosing the height of the ceiling, its structure and the selection of materials for its installation and design. Let's get started.

Height

Minimum

What is the minimum possible ceiling height in a private house??

2.4 meters. By reducing the height even further, you will make the living rooms downright uncomfortable: the ceilings will literally put pressure on the inhabitants of the house, forcing them to constantly bend down.

By the way: already at a height of 2.4 - 2.5 meters, a person above average height will begin to cling to pendant chandeliers and lamps with their heads. Personally verified: with a height of 186 cm, it is quite difficult for me to move freely in a typical Khrushchev or Brezhnevka apartment with hanging light sources.

Optimum

What is the optimal ceiling height in a house??

If we talk only about the subjective perception of the room - the more, the better. A tall room, even with a relatively small area, looks spacious. However, with a significant height of full-height ceilings, excuse the involuntary pun, the problem of heating arises.

Warm air tends upward, and in order to ensure a comfortable temperature at floor level, it will have to be heated under the ceiling to +30 +35C. Excessive heating of the air under the attic floor means an unjustified increase in heat losses: they are always proportional to the temperature delta with the street.

The problem can be solved in two ways:

For convection heating (using or convectors) - limiting the ceiling height to approximately 2.7 meters. In my opinion, this height represents a reasonable compromise between comfort and heat savings;

Hint: the standard ceiling height in new buildings is exactly this - 2.7 meters. In most houses of Soviet projects it is noticeably smaller - 2.6, 2.5 and even 2.45 m.

In addition, heat distribution in a high room will be optimal in the case of a heated floor - water, cable or film. It will provide a comfortable temperature at the level of human height, without overheating the air near the ceiling.

By the way: in houses with second light, warm floors and infrared heaters are generally the only heat sources that can provide a comfortable temperature regime. When using convection heating, either heat at the second floor level or bitter cold below will be inevitable.

House with second light. The only reasonable heating method is underfloor heating.

Higher, even higher

How to increase the height of ceilings in the house?

If you have panel or monolithic reinforced concrete floors, you can only change the visual perception of the height of the room by using tools from the designers’ arsenal.

Which ones exactly?

Light colors make objects appear further away than they really are. The effect is emphasized by the contrasting colors of surrounding objects. Simply put, if you paint the ceiling white and the walls dark, the room will look much larger than its actual size;

The same effect can be achieved by playing with lighting. To increase the apparent height of the ceiling, it is hidden by lighting with spotlights or spotlights.

Floors on wooden beams provide much more space for actually increasing the height of the premises.

If the ceiling is hemmed from above along the bottom of the beams, it is worth removing the hemming (usually a board panel) and laying the flooring between the beams, along the cranial bars, or on top of them. Yes, and here the effect will be largely visual, since the beams will be only two to three centimeters higher than the old filing; however, the room will become much more spacious.

A more radical method is to physically increase the height of the ceiling. To do this, alas, it is necessary to remove the roof, so the work should be timed to coincide with a major roof repair. The height of the walls increases due to several additional rows of masonry or new frame crowns laid on top of the walls.

The log house can also be raised on jacks by starting under it an additional one or two crowns.

Finally, in houses with floors on wooden beams, it is often practiced to dismantle them and lay an insulated screed on the ground. The disadvantage of this method is that windows and thresholds of doorways will rise noticeably relative to the level of the finished floor.

How to raise ceilings this way?

The floor is opened with complete dismantling of the flooring and insulation;

Beams are cut off;
The soil is removed and leveled;

The subfloor cannot be deepened below the foundation level. This is fraught with soil subsidence and wall deformation.

A sand or sand-gravel cushion with a thickness of at least 10-15 centimeters is formed on the ground. It will ensure drainage and avoid freezing of the soil under the floor;
A layer of waterproofing is spread over the sand, overlapping the walls (as a rule, dense polyethylene plays this role);
Concrete preparation is laid on top - a cushion 8-10 centimeters thick made of low-quality (M-100 - M150) concrete;

After it gains strength, a layer of insulation is laid on top - expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam with a density of C-35. Thickness is determined by local climatic conditions. Usually it is 40-50 millimeters;
On top of another layer of waterproofing film on stands 15-25 mm high, galvanized reinforcing mesh with a cell of 10-15 cm and a wire thickness of 5-6 mm is laid out;
It is filled with a screed 8-10 cm thick. After it has gained strength and leveled the surface in any convenient way (self-leveling floor, plywood, etc.), the finishing coating can be laid.

Concrete should come into contact with the wood of the walls only through waterproofing. In its absence, the lower crowns of the log house or the frame of the walls will quickly rot.

Materials and solutions

Reinforced concrete floors

What finishing options are used for slab and monolithic reinforced concrete floors??

The simplest (but not the cheapest) way to make the ceiling perfectly even is to order a stretch ceiling. In Crimea, where I live, it will cost from 400 rubles per square meter. It is useful for the future owner to know several features of this solution:

The minimum distance from the ceiling to the tension flow web is about 4 centimeters. Accordingly, the room will become, albeit slightly, lower;

The tension force of the canvas is about 70 kgf per linear meter of baguette, which is attached to the walls. Accordingly, all walls must have sufficient strength with respect to horizontal load. Plasterboard partitions are erected with a reinforced frame, and the boxes of multi-level plasterboard ceilings for attaching the baguette are reinforced with profile bevels;

Glossy ceilings are made from the thinnest vinyl film. To tension it, the air in the room is heated with a gas heat gun to 65 - 75 degrees; After cooling, the canvas is stretched and made perfectly even.

Gloss visually makes the room taller due to the ghostly reflection of its interior, which is a definite plus. However, the thin film is not durable: it can even be damaged by a shot of a champagne cork;

Matte fabric ceilings are cheaper and more durable than glossy ones. However, due to the peculiarities of joining the canvases, the seams remain visible on them;
If you plan to hide hidden lamps under suspended ceilings, platforms for them and electrical wiring must be installed in advance. At the location of the lamp, a reinforcing ring is glued to the canvas, after which the fabric or film inside the ring is cut out.

The ceiling under the suspended ceiling should be pre-treated with antiseptic primer. A fabric that is impermeable to air will limit the ventilation of the surface of the slabs or monolith, and it is advisable that fungus does not take advantage of this.

How to finish a reinforced concrete floor if suspended ceilings are undesirable for some reason (for example, due to the small height of the room)?

The most obvious way is to level the ceiling with gypsum plaster (Rotband, HP Start, etc.) followed by puttying over fiberglass mesh.

In this case, do-it-yourself finishing is done like this:

The ceiling is cleaned of whitewash and old plaster (of course, if there is any). The easiest way to do this work is with a hard steel spatula, after thoroughly moistening the surface two or three times with a short interval with water using a sprayer or a wide brush;
The seams of the slab floor are cut (cleaned of the old cement mortar). Tools - chisel and hammer or small pick;
The entire surface of the ceiling is primed with adhesive primer (concrete contact) with the addition of an antiseptic;
Beacon profiles are attached to the ceiling level, in one horizontal plane. To attach them, it is better to use building plaster rather than plaster or putty - it sets in 3-7 minutes, and not in 30-40;
The plaster is thrown or spread onto the ceiling with a medium trowel or rectangular trowel. After the 1-1.5 meter long section between the profiles is filled, the excess is removed using a long rule. As a rule, you will have to go through each section several times, with re-filling the gaps;

The layer of plaster should not be thicker than 3 cm. If the differences between the floor slabs exceed this value, it is better to choose a suspended or suspended ceiling.

After drying the plaster, we move on to puttying. Gypsum putty (personally, I liked ABS Saten the most) is applied with a narrow (10-12 cm) spatula to a medium one (30-35 cm) and spread onto the ceiling with sliding movements in the thinnest layer possible.

After puttying a section 1 - 1.5 meters long, a sheet of reinforcing fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 mm is pressed into the putty with the same spatula. The second layer of putty covers the fiberglass mesh, completely hiding its texture;

The last stage is sanding. I use an inexpensive oscillating sander for this purpose with #80 and #120 sanding grids for the first and second passes, respectively.

You need to sand the ceiling under oblique lighting, emphasizing the slightest irregularities, and with the obligatory use of personal protective equipment - glasses and a respirator or gauze bandage. Gypsum dust severely irritates the mucous membranes of the eyes and nasopharynx.

Which ceiling is better to install in a room with high humidity - a bathroom, toilet or combined bathroom?

Here are the types of finishes that are most resistant to dampness:

The suspended ceilings I have already mentioned;
Plaster ceilings using cement mixtures. The technology for their application is no fundamentally different from gypsum. If gypsum gets wet at high humidity and becomes plastic, then cement completely retains its mechanical properties;

To level the surface of the plaster, use putty on white cement. It will show through the paint much less.

Suspended - from wall and ceiling plastic panels.

How to build a ceiling from panels?

For this you will need:

Ceiling guide profiles UD (27x28 mm) with a total length equal to the perimeter of the room with a small margin for trimming;
CD ceiling profiles (60x27 mm) with a length equal to or greater than the length or width of the room (they come in 3- and 4-meter lengths). Their quantity should allow the installation of the sheathing with a pitch of no more than 60 centimeters - with a larger sheathing pitch, the plastic panels will sag within 1 - 1.5 years;

Hint from the Captain Obvious: the sheathing is mounted perpendicular to the panels. The maximum length of the panels can reach 6 meters, so they are usually oriented parallel to the longer wall of the room.

Direct hangers are attached along each ceiling profile in increments of no more than 80 cm;
For their fastening and for mounting the ceiling guide profile, dowels are used - screws 6x60 - 8x80 mm;
The profiles are connected to each other and to the hangers using metal screws 9 mm long. Using the same self-tapping screws, but already 25 mm long, they are hemmed to the panel profiles;
The suspended ceiling itself is assembled from polyvinyl chloride wall or ceiling panels of the maximum available width with seamless tongue-and-groove locks;

Opt for white glossy panels. They are visually almost indistinguishable from a glossy stretch ceiling; at the same time, they are much stronger and extremely easy to clean: the surface can be wiped with a damp sponge and any non-abrasive detergent.

To edge the ceiling and to hide its junction with the walls, you can use vinyl, polyurethane or foam plinth. The latter is the cheapest and easiest to install: it can be glued to walls and ceilings using any universal glue, sealant or acrylic putty.

Preparation of the ceiling surface is reduced only to treatment with antiseptic primer: a suspended ceiling, like a suspended ceiling, will sharply worsen its ventilation and can lead to fungal infection.

The construction of the ceiling is carried out in the following order:

Along the perimeter of the room in a horizontal plane, a ceiling guide profile is attached to the wall. Fastening step - 50 - 60 cm;
The position of the ceiling profiles is marked perpendicular to the panels on the ceiling;
Along each of them, in increments of 80 cm, straight hangers are attached with dowel-screws;
Ceiling profiles, cut to size using metal scissors, are inserted into the guides and pressed against the ceiling with the ears of the hangers bent inward;
Several threads are stretched between the guide profiles, which will serve as guides for installation of ceiling profiles in one plane. Each of them is lowered until it touches the thread, after which the ears of the suspensions are attracted to it with metal screws. The free part of the ears bends upward;
Ceiling profiles are screwed to the guides;

The first panel, cut to fit the ceiling, is attached parallel to one of the walls.

Hint: The easiest way to cut PVC is with a grinder and any abrasive disc. And in this case, eye and respiratory protection is important: fine plastic dust evenly fills the entire volume of the room and settles very slowly.

The panel is attached to the profile at a minimum distance from the wall using self-tapping screws. On the other side of the panel, self-tapping screws attract the protrusion of its tongue-and-groove lock to the profile;
The next panel is inserted into the lock first, after which its protrusion is also attracted to the ceiling profile with self-tapping screws - and so on across the entire width of the room;
The last panel is again secured with self-tapping screws passing through it at a minimum distance from the wall. The fastener caps will be hidden by the ceiling plinth;
The plinth is glued last, after the finishing of the walls is completed.

Beam floors

What is a rough ceiling on beams made of??

Here are the basic materials for filing a rough ceiling:

Edged and unedged boards. A board panel is usually used to lay insulation on it. The board can either be hemmed to the beams from below, or laid between them, on the cranial bars;

tongue and groove board;
Plywood 10 - 18 mm thick (depending on the pitch between the beams);
OSB of the same thickness.

What to make a finished ceiling from?

Here are the finishing materials that can be used for this purpose:

Plasterboard and gypsum fiber sheet;

It is better to use not GVL, but gypsum board. Even if the sheet breaks during transportation or installation, it can be used: the fragments of the gypsum core will be held in one plane by a kraft paper shell. It is enough just to securely fasten the plasterboard in the area of damage.

Wooden lining;
Plastic wall panels already familiar to us;
Plywood. Yes, yes, it can serve as a decorative finishing coating. Plywood cut into squares is varnished; The gaps between adjacent sheets are closed with strip strips painted in a contrasting color.

Flooring with flooring for insulation on cranial bars.

How and with what to sew the bottom of the flooring along the cranial bars?

Drywall can be screwed directly to the boards with self-tapping screws 32 - 45 mm long. The junctions with the beams are puttied; horizontal sections of the ceiling and beams are usually painted in contrasting colors.

With the same success, you can hem the flooring with wall panels. They are attached to the boards with self-tapping screws through the protrusions of the locks or sit on glue. The starting profile or plastic corner acts as the edging.

How to hem a board panel along the beams from below?

Each board is attached to the beam at the point where they intersect with two nails driven staggered (at an angle with a slope in different directions). This method of fastening will prevent the weight of the ceiling and insulation from tearing out the fasteners.

How to make a wooden ceiling with your own hands from lining on beams?

The lining is fastened through clamps - galvanized steel shaped plates. It is better to fasten them to the beams with self-tapping screws. Clamps allow, if necessary, to disassemble the ceiling without damaging the lining.

A galvanized clamp is a simple device for fastening the tongue-and-groove lock of the lining to the sheathing.

The ceiling edging is traditionally made of wooden plinths. Transverse gaps between boards connected along their length are hidden with thin slats.

How to fix drywall?

It is attached to a solid board panel with self-tapping screws in increments of 20-25 centimeters. But when installing along beams or rafters (in the attic or attic) under gypsum plasterboard or gypsum fiber board, you will have to assemble the sheathing. I mounted it like this:

A vapor barrier film was lined along the rafters with insulation laid between them (5 cm of mineral wool and 5 cm of foam plastic with a density of C-25). The goal is to prevent the insulation from getting wet and the rafters from rotting. A furniture stapler was used to file the film;

The UD ceiling guide profile was attached to the gables. In my case, they are panoramic windows, so the profile had to be attached directly to the plastic frames;
Along the attic, a ceiling profile was attached to the rafters using direct hangers. At the junctions of the inclined and horizontal sections of the ceiling, two profiles were mounted next to each other;
GKL sheets were fastened across the sheathing profiles. I used 12.5mm thick wall plasterboard instead of the thinner ceiling plasterboard as the bottom of the sloping sections of the ceiling are only 1.9m high and can be subject to mechanical stress. For fastening, phosphated self-tapping screws 25 mm long were used in increments of 15 - 20 cm;

The seams were puttied with ABS gypsum putty and glued with rolled fiberglass mat mounted on PVA glue, after which they were covered with another layer of putty.

The way the ventilation of the space above the ceiling is arranged deserves special mention. From there, air is taken out by an exhaust fan through one of the gables of the attic; At its corners, four supply ventilation grilles are installed in the finished ceiling.

The photo shows grilles for ventilation of the space between the ceiling and the roof of the attic.

For painting plasterboard thread we used:

In dry rooms - office and bedroom - latex water-dispersion paint, resistant to dry abrasion;
The bathroom has waterproof, water-based rubber paint. It reliably protects the plasterboard from splashes of water and can be washed with any cleaning agents except abrasive ones. The texture of the painted surface is semi-gloss, with a slight shine.

Conclusion

Of course, in a relatively short article, I did not mention all possible solutions. The video in this article will help our dear reader learn more about how to cover a ceiling in a private house. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

October 3, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

When most of us think about decorating the ceiling in our home, the first thought that most often comes to mind is “white and flat.” When decorating the interior of all other parts of the house, using all sorts of ideas, innovations, fantasies, we usually forget about the ceilings, leaving them, as the easiest detail, at the very end of the work.

However, the original design of the ceiling, no matter what room - living or dining room, kitchen or nursery, bedroom or office - can give the room a unique, inimitable, individual character that will make a lasting impression on those who see it.

The ceiling design will be different in each home, it will depend on:

available space;
style of decoration of the surrounding walls (do-it-yourself wall decoration -);
general style in the house.

In any case, the number of color options and finishing materials is huge.

How to make a ceiling in a private house unique: designers’ ideas

Modern ceilings are much more than just a flat white surface. With so many ideas and ways that architects offer to decorate ceilings, playing with shape, structure and finish at the same time, you can certainly choose the right one for your private home.

Ceiling lighting

One way to give the ceiling an original appearance is to install LED spotlights, which will become part of the exquisite design of the ceiling and give it a complete look.

With properly organized lighting technology, the ceiling in the house can be decorated both in an elegant and stylish modern style, and in a classic style, using and combining different types of lamps:

chandeliers (exquisite and luxurious Mechini chandeliers are described in);
candelabra;
spots;
LED strips.

Playing with depth of space

One of the reasons why designers love to “play” with ceilings is that they can be used to change the perception of height and overall dimensions of a room.

For example, by giving the ceiling the shape of a vault or arch, you make the interior more spacious and free.

This shape makes the ceiling higher and visually enlarges the room.

A sloping ceiling will make the room more compact and modern. By the way, this is one of the most fashionable trends in the arrangement of ceilings among foreign designers.

Coffered ceilings (their design consists of beams crisscrossing so that the ceiling forms many rectangular sections, beautifully decorated on the inside) can also create a feeling of height and air in the house, while at the same time giving it the charm of "old England" - which is what is the dream of many designers today.

You can make the room more spacious and fashionable by using drywall and the “inverted or recessed tray” technique (Tray Ceiling). Such ceiling structures are more suitable for rooms with high ceilings, however, they can also look luxurious in standard rooms.

Plasterboard structures in the form of an “inverted tray” are still relevant

Combination of different techniques and styles

By combining spotlights on the ceiling in a certain order (or, conversely, disorder), you can create the effect of sunshine in the room.

Many correctly located spots over the entire surface are capable of:

harmoniously and unobtrusively illuminate the entire room;
create a cozy environment conducive to relaxation;
evoke the feeling of the presence of natural sunlight.

A lot of spots scattered across the ceiling and the absence of an oversized chandelier creates the feeling of sun glare on the ceiling

In addition to a highly aesthetic spectacle, this solution is also ergonomic, as it saves energy.

Materials for finishing ceilings in a private house

Now that we already know how you can decorate the ceiling in your home, let’s figure out how you can do this.

The main materials that craftsmen use to realize design fantasies on ceilings are:

The following video will show you how to make a plasterboard ceiling:

Now you are convinced of the important role the ceiling plays in the house, so think about its design in advance. With beautiful ceilings, the interior of your home will be perfect!