Why does apricot dry out in the spring? Why do leaves fall off apricots and peaches? How to treat an apricot tree: video

A common problem that appears when growing an apricot tree is related to changes in leaves. The reasons why apricot leaves turn yellow are influenced by diseases, pests, lack of substances, soil deterioration and weather conditions.

Wilted apricot leaves are a sign of disease

The main causes of the disease

The most common causes of wilting are:

  • Impact of aphids. This is a small insect that leads not only to yellowing of apricot leaves, but also to its death. It feeds on leaves, sucking the juice from them: they turn yellow and then curl up into a tube. The presence of aphids will become noticeable on apricots if you look closely. Chemicals that should be sprayed on the apricot and nearby plants will help in pest control.
  • Exposure to animals. Mice and hares can damage apricots by damaging the bark near the rhizome. To protect against them, wrap the trunk from the ground to a height of 1 m. This will also insulate the tree for the winter. Ruberoid or tiles are used for winding.
  • Lack of useful elements. If there is not enough magnesium or phosphorus, this causes yellowing of the leaves. Trees need to be fed with mineral fertilizers, preferably in the spring. This will not only protect the tree from developing diseases, but will also increase the amount of harvest.
  • Climate. Another reason for yellowing leaves is bad weather conditions. These include drought, extreme heat, and prolonged rains. During dry periods, water the trees well, and after excessive rains, stop moistening the soil.

Verticillium wilt

One of the causes of leaf changes is verticillium wilt. This apricot disease is caused by fungal spores. They can remain in the soil for a long time, but when exposed to insects they are transferred to the bark, remaining in the cracks of the trunk. Sometimes fungal spores spread so strongly in the soil that while the roots absorb nutrients, the spores also penetrate the tree.

Having become infected with this infection, the plant begins to dry out, the leaves become yellow, lethargic, then dry out and die. If treatment is not started quickly, the trees will die and dry out. For this purpose they use “Fundazol”, “Topsin-M”, “Vitaros”, “Previkur”. As a preventive measure, the bottom of the trunk should be treated with lime mortar, which will get rid of insects that carry fungal spores.

"Topsin-M" will help fight infection

What to do if the cause of yellowing is not established

It often happens that it is difficult to determine the reason why apricot leaves have dried up. If no pest or weather effects are noted, it is best to remove the seedling.

When planting and caring for the plant, you must follow a number of rules:

  • Make sure that the seedlings are healthy and not infected with fungal diseases. You need to check if there are pests on them.
  • If injuries occur, the damage must be covered as soon as possible with a special garden varnish.
  • Leaves and branches that have wilted should be promptly pruned and burned.
  • In spring and autumn, you need to spray the trees with Bordeaux mixture; occasionally the plant is sprayed in the summer, but after harvesting.
  • Harvest ripe fruits in a timely manner.

If the tree cannot be saved, then its roots must be uprooted, and apricots can no longer be planted in this place; only planting pome fruit trees is permissible.

Bordeaux mixture is used to prevent infections

The main reasons why leaves wither and turn yellow are exposure to pests and diseases. If the tree is sick, it must be sprayed with special preparations, but it is easier to protect the tree from pests and diseases than to get rid of them. Therefore, always do preventive spraying in the spring, before flowering, and in the fall, after harvesting. Water the trees on time and feed them with mineral or organic fertilizers.

Apricot is a rewarding stone fruit. It is early-bearing, actively develops, is not afraid of pruning and slight freezing, does not make any special demands on the soil, and is distinguished by decorative flowering and a dessert taste of the fruit. However, insidious diseases and voracious pests can deprive gardeners of a tasty and healthy harvest. Trees that have been growing on the site for a long time are especially susceptible to damage. Therefore, do not forget about preventive pruning, whitewashing, spraying and timely treatments.

Prevention of apricot diseases and pests

The manifestation of fungal diseases can be prevented by preventive pruning, whitewashing and timely processing.

  • Carry out timely sanitary pruning in March - see.
  • Whiten the trunks and skeletal branches with lime or water-based white garden paint - see.
  • Don’t forget to also remove fallen leaves, remove and burn spoiled fruits, and loosen the soil in the bush area.
  • Always collect and burn all fruits affected by pests or diseases, remove old bark,
  • Loosen the soil in the tree trunk area more often,
  • Water the plants and apply fertilizers - read about.

Apricot diseases

Apricot plants are attacked by various fungal diseases: Clusterosporiasis , moniliosis , verticillium and so on. The development of the disease is favored by warm weather with high humidity. Treatments with fungicidal preparations are effective against fungal diseases.

Apricot cytosporosis

  • Signs of cytosporosis are small brown tubercles that suddenly appear on the bark.
  • The development of the disease leads to premature withering and death of leaf blades and drying out of branches.
  • If the disease spreads severely, the entire tree dies.

Control of apricot cytosporosis

I advise you to start the fight against cytosporosis by removing the affected branches and burning them outside the site.

  1. If the first signs of the disease are noticed in time and the affected areas of the bark are still small, it is necessary to treat the plants as quickly as possible with 1% Bordeaux mixture or any other copper-based preparation.
  2. In case of severe damage, you can increase the dosage by making a 2% solution.
  3. Plants can be treated with Bordeaux mixture in the spring, using this drug as a prophylactic agent.
  4. In case of very severe infection, it is necessary to treat the plants with fungicides (antifungal drugs) approved for the current season.

I noticed that wild apricots, so-called perches never suffer from cytosporosis. In any case, during the 10 years of their growth in my area, there were never signs of this disease.

It can also suffer from cytosporosis. In case of cytosporosis of any fruit crops in any region, bark stripping, covering and preventive spraying are carried out after harvesting. It is equally important to take preventive measures when.

Fire blight on apricot

This disease affects absolutely all parts of the apricot plant. A bacterial burn can manifest itself in different ways.

  • Usually dark marks are visible on the shoots, as if from a burn.
  • Then ulcers appear in these areas, and gum formation begins.
  • Brown bark can be seen on affected apricot plants.

If the disease spreads severely, the tree may die.

Fighting fire blight

I advise you to start fighting bacterial burns by cutting and burning the affected branches.

  1. All cuts must be treated before insulating them with garden varnish or garden paint. 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.
  2. Sometimes treating affected plants helps 1% Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate in early spring (April) and summer (a month before the fruits ripen).
  3. You can also spray the plants after harvesting, as soon as the leaves begin to fall. Use 3% Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.

Prevention of fire blight on apricots

  • To prevent this disease, always remove gum from the bark.
  • If, as a result of the severe development of bacterial burn, the apricot plants died and were uprooted, the soil at the place of growth must be disinfected.
  • Sprinkle the ground bleach at the rate of 150-180 g per 1 m² and embed it into the soil by digging with a full bayonet of a shovel.

Apricot varieties resistant to fire blight

A number of varieties, according to reviews from gardeners in various regions of Russia, are not affected by bacterial burn:

  1. Pineapple Tsyuryupinsky(North Caucasus region),
  2. Red-cheeked(North Caucasus and Lower Volga regions),
  3. Shindakhlan(North Caucasus region).

Monilial burn of apricot

Monilial blight on apricots develops during seasons with damp and cool weather.

  • Most often, monilial burn appears at the height of flowering of the crop.
  • The leaf blades and growths of the current year sometimes begin to acquire a brown color, gradually dry out, and the leaves fall off ahead of time.
  • If the monilial burn appears when the fruits have already set and are developing, then they may soon rot.

Fighting monilial burns

The fight against monilial burn should begin with pruning and burning the affected shoots, removing and destroying fallen leaves and rotten fruits.

  1. To prevent monilial burn in the spring, during the period of swelling of the buds, you need to treat the plants 3% Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.
  2. As soon as the shoots and leaf blades begin to dry out, you must immediately treat the plants with the drug Topsin-M, Strobe, Topaz and etc.
  3. For greater effect, you need to add half a piece to the solution, prepared strictly according to the instructions on the package. antibacterial soap.

Apricot brown spot

  • Brown spot appears in the form of brown spots on leaf blades, on which a narrow dark-colored border appears after a few days.
  • After some time, the leaf tissue inside the spots dies and falls out, forming through holes.
  • This leads to the death of the leaf blade and its shedding ahead of schedule.

Fighting brown spot

I advise you to start the fight against brown spot by removing the affected leaf blades and burning them.

  1. For prevention, you can treat apricot plants during bud break. 3% Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.
  2. At the first signs of illness, repeat treatment.

Apricot hole spot

  • The first signs of the disease - small brown-scarlet spots - are visible on leaf blades and fruits.
  • After 8-10 days, through holes form in place of the spots.
  • Spots on the fruits lead to their drying out and sharply reduce the yield.
  • Affected leaf blades dry out and die prematurely.
  • Trees affected by hole spot do not overwinter well and freeze heavily.

On plants that are severely affected by hole spotting, you can see red-violet spots already on the bark and on the shoots. If no measures are taken, then active gum formation begins at the site of the spots.

Fighting hole spotting

I advise you to start the fight against hole spot by removing the affected leaves, shoots, fruits and burning them outside the site.

  1. Clean and treat all wounds 3% copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture, and then isolate them with garden varnish.
  2. They cope well with perforated spotting when treated with copper-containing preparations.
  3. Treatment with drugs helps Horus And Mikosan.
  4. Preventive treatments can also be carried out 3% Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate in autumn (after leaf fall) and in spring (when buds begin to bloom).

I also noticed that trees growing in poor soil suffer from this disease more often. Therefore, try to provide the plants with food.

For prevention, for each plant you need to add:

  • in spring - 1 tbsp. l. nitroammofoski,
  • during the flowering period - 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate,
  • after harvest 150-200 g wood ash.

Apricot gum discharge

Gum may appear due to violations of pruning dates (later than March), freezing and cracking of the bark.

  1. The gum should be removed with a wooden scraper.
  2. Then clean the affected area and treat 1% Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.
  3. If damage is visible on the bark, then after treatment you should isolate it with garden varnish.

Apricot pests

Most common on apricot aphid, codling moth And leaf roller. Insecticidal preparations and treatments with laundry soap are effective against pests.
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Codling moth on apricot

It is not the codling moth itself that harms apricot plants, but its caterpillars.

  1. Codling moth caterpillars hatch from the ovipositor in the summer and try with all their might to get into the fruits, leading to their spoilage and rot.
  2. Caterpillars overwinter either in the soil or in crevices of the bark.
  3. Insecticide treatments help against codling moths: 0.5% solution Entobacterina, Decima or Inta-Vira.

Leaf rollers on apricot

  • Apricots are also harmed by caterpillars that hatch from eggs laid by the leaf roller butterfly.
  • The caterpillars are unusually voracious and actively eat not only leaf blades, but also buds.
  • Caterpillars appear in the spring, and in the summer they roll up the leaves and pupate in them, so that after some time they fly out as butterflies and give birth to the second caterpillar offspring of the season.

To combat the leaf roller, you can use the same drugs as to combat the codling moth.

Thanks to the work of breeders, the southern apricot tree has taken root in gardens in temperate climates. But in order for a tree to grow healthy, it requires special attention and care, as it is too susceptible to a variety of diseases. It is not easy to recognize the symptoms of apricot disease, determine the type of disease, much less treat them.

Types of apricot tree diseases

Experts divide stone fruit diseases into 3 groups – fungal, bacterial and viral.

  • Fungal infections are the result of infection of a tree with spores of various fungi. Once on the leaves and bark, they take root, feed and reproduce at the expense of the tree.
  • During bacterial and viral diseases, the tree becomes sick under the influence of tiny pathogens. They enter the plant from the soil and penetrate into the wood. The symptoms of an invisible attack are the hardest to notice.

Mushrooms love a moist environment. Therefore, rainy weather and excessive waterlogging stimulate the development of the disease. Spores are carried by the wind and insects (leaf roller, moth, moth, and weevil).
There are several main types of fungal diseases. Each has its own unique symptoms that need to be noticed and taken in time.

The main types of fungal diseases and their symptoms

  1. Moniliosis. If in the spring in cold weather you saw dried leaves at the ends of the branches, blackened, drying out and cracked branches, that the bark on the apricot was cracked, like after a fire, fallen flower buds, these are symptoms of a monilial burn. Spores of the fungus Monilia (Monilia) enter the flower through the pistil, first infecting the flowers and then the entire tree.
  2. Fruit rot. The tree becomes infected with the same spores as with moniliosis. Before harvesting, literally a few weeks before, mass rotting of apricots begins. A small light brown spot on the skin gradually enlarges until the entire fruit rots. The fruit is covered with a gray coating, and on top of it you can see a cluster of white spores.
  3. Gnomoniosis (brown spot) first affects the leaves. Yellow spots appear on them. Gradually the leaves turn red and dry after reddening. The tree is weakening. The fruits fall off before they have time to ripen, or under the influence of the fungus they become distorted, acquiring an ugly shape.
  4. Clusterosporiosis of apricot. When examining the leaves of a tree affected by hole spot, you will notice a scattering of brown spots. Next to the stains you will see small holes. Young shoots are affected by the disease. When they crack, they ooze sticky juice—gum. The causative agent of clasterosporiasis is the spores of the fungus Cercospora cerasella, Phyllosticta prunicola.
  5. Valsa mushroom. You can notice the onset of the disease by orange growths on the tree bark. They resemble in appearance a human ulcer. Fungal spores enter the wood through cuts after pruning branches, cultivating, and through cracks after frost.
  6. Vertical wilt (verticillium wilt). The first signs are untimely yellowing of the leaves of the lower branches. The fungus develops inside the tree. Infected leaves fall off, decompose in the soil and infect new plants when they fall on a cut. To correctly diagnose the disease, the branch is cut and the cross section is examined. On a diseased tree, you can see brown spots of irregular shape, light and dark.
  7. Apricot leaf curl. Under the influence of tafrin fungus spores, one of the most dangerous diseases of stone fruit crops develops. It can be diagnosed by the leaves, the color of which gradually changes from yellow to dark red. Then swollen reddish formations appear and the shape of the leaf becomes distorted.
  8. Stone scab. On the leaves after blooming you can see dark green round spots. Gradually they change color to gray-brown and become hard. Can cover the entire sheet. The leaves begin to dry out and fall off. A plaque appears on the fruit due to the action of the fungus. The appearance of the fruit, the quality of the pulp, and the taste deteriorate.
  9. Fusarium drying out (fusarium). The development of the disease can be determined by the leaves on which gray-brown spots appear, slightly depressed in nature. The action of the fungus also affects the fruits. Spots also appear on them, the skin becomes wrinkled, and the flesh underneath is dry. Spores enter the tree from the soil, penetrating through cracks and cuts.
  10. Cytosporosis drying out (cytosporosis). A very serious, poorly treatable disease. Its onset can be determined by the branches and tips of the shoots, which suddenly dry out at the beginning of summer. The bark takes on a brown tint, and wounds appear that ooze gum. Black tubercles of the fungus gradually cover the bark. Next year, a black growth will appear in this place - a mushroom that has grown into the tissue of the tree. Fungal spores during cytosporosis penetrate through cuts and damage to wood. It is possible to cure a tree from cytosporosis only at an early stage of the disease.

Bacterial diseases and their symptoms

Of the bacterial types, stone carcinoma is the most common.
Bacterial necrosis (stone cancer). You can notice it by brown spots on the leaves, which later turn into holes. The branches are covered with elongated-flattened ulcers. The buds either do not open at all, or bloom with the appearance of small, non-viable leaves. The drying process also applies to shoots. A tree becomes ill under the influence of bacteria that penetrate the tree from the soil through saw cuts and cuts.

How to recognize viral diseases

  1. Plum pox. Fruits that ripen half a month earlier have poor taste. The fruit itself has characteristic somewhat deep brownish stripes and spots. The pulp underneath is dry.
  2. Ringpox. Why does a tree sometimes develop too slowly in the spring? It may have contracted smallpox. Watch the tree. With this disease, small leaves, sometimes of unusual shapes, gradually bloom. Unripe fruits with brown red-brown tubercles and rings fall early.
  3. Viral wilting. By seeing simultaneous flowering and the appearance of green leaves, viral wilt can be confidently diagnosed. The leaves become thicker and curled; covered with light green spots. The pulp of the fruit, starting from the seed, dies. The disease usually begins after budding or grafting.
  4. Ribbon mosaic. The leaves are primarily affected. On them you will see yellow stripes along the veins, which gradually form a lacy mosaic pattern, leading to the death of the foliage.

Among the labor-intensive methods of combating all categories of apricot diseases, one can highlight general measures of prevention and treatment and specific ones that relate to individual species.

General methods of disease prevention

  1. Plant the apricot tree in the warmest and windless corner of the garden. In areas with high humidity, plant on small mounds to drain moisture.
  2. Use healthy seedlings for planting and proven cuttings for grafting.
  3. When growing, adhere to scientifically based technology.
  4. Systematically observe the trees, examine the flowers, leaves, trunk, bark, branches, shoots.
  5. Regularly dig up the soil near the trunk, saturating it with oxygen.
  6. Do not allow the soil under the trees to dry out or become waterlogged.
  7. In autumn, collect and burn leaves. Some microorganisms will die and will not cause harm in the future.
  8. Collect all diseased fruits from the tree, burn them or bury them to a depth of at least 40 cm.
  9. Do not plant apricots on soils where nightshades such as potatoes, tomatoes, strawberries or tobacco have previously grown. If this is not possible, treat the soil with antifungal drugs.
  10. When grafting and pruning, do not forget to treat the sections with special antiseptic agents, as well as your hands when you move from tree to tree while working.
  11. Fertilize trees so that they grow healthy, strong, and hardy.
  12. Preventively treat the tree trunk and the ground underneath it with a solution of copper sulfate.
  13. In autumn, whitewash trees.
  14. Preventatively spray the tree and the ground underneath with copper-containing preparations in the spring before buds open, and in the fall after the leaves fall. Spray only in dry, warm weather and never during rain.
  15. Cover large hollows with cement or clay solution.

Features of the treatment of diseased apricots

  • Spraying with copper-containing preparations. Bordeaux mixture - 3%, copper sulfate 1%. Treatment interval is 2 weeks.
  • Please note that crops saved during illness must be processed immediately. There are spores on the surface and the painful process will still occur.
  • If you notice at least one tree sick with cytosporosis or another disease, it is necessary to treat all the trees in the garden, regardless of whether they are sick or not.
  • During apricot disease and treatment, avoid pruning trees. Wounds that bleed gum, for example, with cytosporosis, must be cleaned, taking 2 cm of healthy wood around the wound, treated with an antiseptic, and covered with garden varnish.
  • As an antiseptic, you can use a 1% solution of copper sulfate, Fundazol or a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
  • There are many antifungal drugs available all the time. Use them according to the instructions. Some drugs are used even during flowering.
  • For clasterosporiosis, use 4% Bordeaux mixture or 1% copper sulfate.
  • For vertical wilting, it is recommended to spray Bordeaux mixture on the blossoming buds.

Carry out preventive measures, adhere to general rules, treat apricot diseases in a timely manner - and your trees will be healthy and will delight the owner with an excellent harvest.

Our beloved apricot comes from the warm regions of Armenia, India, and China. Diseases of apricot trees and their treatment - photo on the page - are associated with changes in living conditions. In a climate uncharacteristic for the tree, fungal and non-infectious diseases develop, reducing the productivity of the garden. Only prevention and proper care will help avoid the spread of diseases.

Diseases and their treatment

Nothing in the garden happens by chance. A leaf or twig that turns yellow or withers at the wrong time makes the gardener wary. Unfortunately, it is impossible to eradicate the infestation in public gardens. The proliferation of spores and bacteria in an infested area can be reduced by regular biological control treatments. A single tree in an abandoned garden can be a breeding ground for spores and cysts.

If the garden is affected by apricot diseases, then the fight against them should be systematic. But to do this, you should know the signs, dangerous periods, and methods of treating each ailment.

There are different types of diseases:

  • physiological;
  • bacterial;
  • fungal;
  • viral.

To treat a disease, you need to know its signs. There is a guide that contains photographs of diseases of apricot trees and their treatment is described. The disease can be prevented by preventive measures - purchase seedlings that are tolerant to diseases common in the region, carry out protective measures, and carry out agrotechnical measures during the process.

Moniliosis is the most common disease of apricot orchards

Moniliosis is caused by the introduction of the marsupial fungus monilius. The disease develops in two forms - it affects foliage and causes gray rot of fruits.

You should expect disease on the leaves after a warm winter. If the flowering period coincides with humid, foggy weather, the spores are introduced into the wood through the open pistil of the petal. In this case, the flower turns brown, and the affected wood does not supply food to the leaf.

Precisely, infection is the reason why apricots dry out after flowering. The leaves do not fall off and become mummified, but cracks appear on the branches, which the tree seeks to patch by secreting gum.

A measure to combat monial burn is to cut out damaged branches twice, during the period of the onset of the disease and after 2-3 weeks. Treatment with copper preparations will reduce the proliferation of the monilius fungus. Prevention - autumn whitewashing of the garden with the addition of cuproxate to lime.

Moniliosis of apricot and its control will be required in the middle of summer, during the warm, humid season. When the crop is preparing to ripen, the fruits become covered with a white, gray fluffy coating, then rot. Such fruits must be collected and destroyed. But already in winter, trees are treated with Bordeaux mixture three times. In the spring, even before flowering, the garden is treated with fungicides, one green cone at a time, one bud at a time:

  • Horus;
  • Nitrafen;
  • Insecticides.

Treatment against insects is necessary, as they transfer rot to healthy ovaries.

Next year, the weakened plant must be freed from part of the harvest by removing branches and thinning the plant. At the same time, this technique is prophylactic against fungal diseases.

Clusterosporiosis or hole spot

You carefully examine the through holes, look for the leaf beetle, and in front of you is a fungal disease - apricot clasterosporiasis. First, small light spots will appear, pressed into the plate. Then necrosis, and a hole appears. If measures are not taken, the stains become larger and the sheet is destroyed. The source of the disease may be a fungus, an infection, or violations in agricultural technology. Thus, leaves can be burned during preventive treatment; if the dose of chemicals is exceeded, the tree can be weakened by infection. But if there are no other reasons, it is a fungus, and treatment with fungicides is needed. And the wounds that appear, where the gum oozes, need to be treated and covered with garden varnish.

Fruit shedding

It seems for no reason that the still green or yellow fruits without taste begin to crumble, freeing the branches from the load. Why does the apricot crumble? There are many reasons. Perhaps the tree is overloaded with fruits and there is not enough nutrition. The owner did not regulate the load, and the exhausted tree gets rid of the harvest.

Perhaps a hurricane wind passed through the area and dropped the fruits. But temperature changes and damage to the trunk give the same result. The tree will experience apoplexy if the temperature drops to 0 degrees. The cell sap froze, the cells became suffocated, the leaves drooped and withered. After this, the affected tree begins to dry out and is no longer able to harvest. Bacteria and fungi then invade the affected tissues. Treatment of apoplexy involves treatment with copper-containing preparations and cutting out the affected branches.

How to prevent gum formation

Gum is a protective sticky secretion of a tree - glue, resin, diluted with juice. What to do if gum bleeding from an apricot takes away its vitality? The disease is called gommosis and is characteristic of stone fruit crops.

The gum secreted is a sticky, thick substance designed to cover wounds like a band-aid. A medicinal substance used in traditional medicine. An open wound, a crack should heal. But the introduced fungi and bacteria interfere, the wood is destroyed, the outflow continues, weakening the tree.

You can prevent the appearance of growths with proper care:

  • do not injure the tree bark;
  • avoid frost damage and sunburn;
  • do not do traumatic pruning during sap flow;
  • use zoned varieties for breeding.

They whiten 3 times a year - in summer, mid-winter and autumn. Wrapping the trunk in burlap in winter will help. A balanced calcium composition in the soil is important to stop gum production. Excess calcium can be removed by watering it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate during the season.

There are many methods of combating gum discharge, as well as the reasons why the disease arose. The main thing is to find the cause and, after eliminating it, carry out agricultural measures. The diseases of apricot trees shown in the photo and their treatment most often form a complex; the symptoms are intertwined. A specialist agronomist can clarify.

Video about apricot monilial burn

, Today we will talk about apricots and diseases to which they are susceptible.

From this article you will learn about diseases such as:

  • apricot moniliosis;
  • walsa mushroom;
  • bacterial spot;
  • we will talk about the causes of these diseases and methods of preventing and combating them.

Apricot diseases are very insidious and often, gardeners attribute the loss of yield to one peculiarity of this fruit - it blooms at a time when the daily temperature is not yet stable, and frosts at this time are quite expected. As a rule, crop losses are blamed on frosts, but is everything so simple, and is it worth just complaining about weather quirks when your harvest is almost completely gone?

Monilia mushroom may be to blame for your crop failure. The disease can manifest itself as a monilial burn or as gray rot. Moniliosis apricot a very dangerous disease, in the spring it usually manifests itself in the form of a monilial burn; this disease is often mistaken for a consequence of frost; because of it, many gardeners are left without an apricot harvest.

Moniliosis symptoms:

One of the first signs of apricot moniliosis disease is a change in the color of the petal to brown and its further drying out, but note that the leaves do not fall off, but continue to grow on the tree. The next stage is the drying and withering of the leaves; young branches and shoots also succumb to this process. Thick branches become covered with cracks in the bark, the appearance of the tree becomes pitiful, as if it had been exposed to fire, hence the origin of the name of the disease - monilialburn.

Moniliosis methods of control and prevention.

Often, gardeners who are faced with this problem make a hasty decision to cut down the apricot, but this is not necessary, they should cut off the infected branches, rejuvenate the tree, as a rule, such actions are quite enough so that the new branches are healthy, but so that the disease does not return , the plant needs to be protected.

Prevention and protection of apricots is not complicated; you need to trim diseased branches and cuts in a timely manner, covering them with garden varnish or oil paint. You also need to remove dried fruits from the tree in autumn or early spring. Also, to avoid disease, you need to whitewash the wood, use lime and copper sulfate. Frost is also a good ally in the fight against the disease moniliosis, because at temperatures below -20C, the fungus dies.

Walsa mushroom.

Another fungal disease that does not spare apricots is the valsa mushroom, an infectious disease that occurs when an infection gets into the wounds on the apricot tree.

Walsa mushroom symptoms: the disease typically appears as nodular, orange, corky growths.

Valsa mushroom prophylaxis : To avoid apricot infection with this disease, it is not recommended to prune the tree during its dormant period; you also need to keep the soil in a well-drained condition in order to combat the disease walsa mushroom use a fungicidal spray.

Vertical wilting, in Herticillium apricot.

Another fungal disease of apricot. This time it is a soil fungus, it is located underground, and not only apricots, but also many other trees and plants suffer from it.

Verticillium symptoms: The disease manifests itself as wilting, yellowing, and death of the tree. The leaves on the tree turn yellow, curl, the process begins at the bottom of the tree, and over time, green leaves will remain only at the top of the tree.

Verticillosis control methods: the disease can be treated only in the early stages of development; if you have managed to identify the symptoms, before the entire tree is infected, you need to spray the tree with one of the following drugs: foundationazol, previkur, vitaros, topsin-M, the solution should be 0.2% ym.

Bacterial spotting of apricot.

Dangerous disease apricot, it is distributed in all climatic zones where apricot grows.

bacterial spot symptoms: the first signs of illness apricot bacterial spot, is the appearance of small, dark, watery spots on the leaves. Gradually, these spots become angular and begin to dry out and turn yellow. On fruits, the disease appears as dark spots that gradually increase in diameter and are brownish.

Bacterial spotting methods of control and prevention : To avoid infection with this disease, it is necessary to carry out crop rotation with those plants that are not susceptible to this disease, and it is also worth eliminating all weeds near the tree. When planting, you need to use uninfected seeds; spray the plants with copper sulfate.

Clusterosporiasis (hole spotting).

Symptoms: when stone fruits are affected by perforated spot, the first sign will be the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, then these spots begin to die off. Spots also appear on the shoots, they crack, and gum leaks out through these cracks.

The disease manifests itself most often in autumn and spring.

How to fight: As soon as you discover the affected shoots, they must be sawed off and burned, the cut areas are covered with garden varnish, these procedures must be carried out before the leaves begin to fall.

After leaf fall, and in early spring on the buds, the tree must be sprayed with 4% Bordeaux mixture, which can be replaced with a 1% solution of copper sulfate. In case of too humid summer, treatment is carried out every 2 weeks. You can also use a drug called “chorus”; it is diluted in proportions of 3 grams per 10 liters of water, it is safe for humans, and spraying is carried out in the pink bud phase.

Apricot viral diseases:

Plum pox on apricot.

Symptoms: unfortunately, plum pox also affects other stone fruits with the same success. Depressed stripes appear on the fruits, and the pulp around them becomes dry. Fruit ripening occurs faster than normal, but the taste of such a crop will be very low.

Ringpox.

Signs: They can be detected on the foliage even before the onset of summer heat. The growth of shoots and leaves slows down, and their shape may also be incorrect or distorted. After the fruits ripen, swollen spots appear on them, red in color with a brown tint. Such apricots fall prematurely without having time to ripen.

Both variants of pox enter the plant during grafting or budding. Therefore, the main thing is to adhere to all the rules during these procedures, and then this disease will not threaten your harvests.

Viral wilting.

How it manifests itself: the most recognizable symptom is the simultaneous flowering and appearance of young leaves. In the summer, light green spots appear on them, the leaf itself becomes denser and thicker, and they begin to curl.

Fruits also suffer from viral wilt. Near the seed, the pulp begins to acquire a brown color, and gradually it dies. The tree may also die due to this disease. Infection occurs during budding or grafting.

Ribbon mosaic.

In the spring, when the leaves begin to bloom, a disease called ribbon mosaic can be noticed on apricots. Yellow stripes appear on seemingly healthy leaves. Then the stripes grow into a pattern, and the tissues gradually die off.

Fight against all viral diseases of apricot.

  1. Use healthy seedlings when planting; it is better to buy them in special stores or official gardening centers.
  2. The tops of the shoots must be grafted.
  3. Conduct timely pest control.
  4. Application of complex fertilizers on time and in suitable proportions.
  5. When you prune and graft a tree, you must follow all the rules. After the procedure, treat the cut area with garden varnish, and disinfect the tool before starting to work with another tree. You can heat the tool to a temperature of +50C, this way you kill most harmful viruses.
  6. Coat the tree trunk with a mixture of lime and copper sulfate.

It is not at all difficult to carry out procedures that will significantly reduce the risk of apricot diseases in your garden. The main thing is not to be lazy, and after each procedure treat the plant with special substances, disinfect your hands and tools after work, and everything will be fine. We wish you good luck.

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