Without the ability to lay bricks, it is impossible to build a good wall. Using the same technology, walls are built from gas, foam blocks, and ceramic blocks. If you know how bricklaying is done and have gained some experience, you can save a considerable amount on hiring builders. The quality of construction depends not only on understanding the technology, but also on proper mixing of the solution. You also need to learn how to work with a trowel. This tool is indispensable for those who want to build like professionals.
Necessary tools and mixing the solution
Use a trowel to scoop up the solution, apply it to the base, and pick up the excess that comes out of the joints. Without a trowel, work will stop; it is like the working hand of a mason. The rows must be strictly vertical and horizontal, they are controlled by the building level and plumb line. Otherwise, even invisible distortions in the wall will lead to irreversible consequences.
The solution is mixed from 3 parts sand and 1 part cement. This is a standard norm that can be changed: take 1 part cement and modifying additives for 4 parts sand. It should be said that the strength of an ordinary solution does not decrease at sub-zero temperatures, so additives do not need to be mixed into it. It is better to learn with a solution without additives, using cement M200 and higher for mixing.
Types of masonry
The long side of the brick is called the spoon, the short side is called the poke. Different types of masonry depend on their location, and the alternation of sides determines the appearance of the seams. It is better for a beginner to learn the classic variety, when ligation of transverse and vertical seams is done through 3 rows. Ligation means that the vertical seams of the upper row are shifted relative to the lower vertical seams. This does not mean that the displacement should be exactly half the brick, it can be smaller, but it must be the same.
The seam can be made decorative if additional cladding of the facade is not planned. It is made with a recess inside or flush with the surface. This technique is called jointing masonry, in which a special tool is used to create a beautiful seam. If it is not there, they make do with improvised means, for example, a thin board or steel rods with a square section of 10x10 mm.
Let's start laying
So, the first row is laid on a previously prepared foundation. It must harden completely, then a waterproofing layer is laid on it. For convenience, bricks are stacked next to the workplace. Important: if you pour water over the bricks a few hours before laying, they will absorb less mortar. Next, pull the cord between two points, for example, from one corner of the future wall to the other.
First, lay the first row dry and mark the location of the bricks on the foundation with chalk. Then they are removed. The solution should be applied evenly to the trowel. To do this, you need to scoop it up and then lightly shake the trowel in a horizontal position. The mixture is applied to the foundation and to any of the following rows for about 4 bricks. You should make grooves, as they will help you immediately get rid of excess mortar and do high-quality work.
The bricks are placed so that their edges coincide with the marks on the foundation. If you are making masonry for jointing, adjust the width of the seam using auxiliary devices. If the wall is to be tiled, then each subsequent brick is moved as close as possible to the previous one by tapping it with the handle of a trowel. It is undesirable to move it along the row by hand, disturbing the thickness of the solution.
For laying the 2nd row, all operations are repeated, starting with pulling the chalk cord. In this case, first lay half a brick, then a whole one. Thus, the seam of the 2nd row is shifted. Each row is checked for horizontalness using a level. This parameter may be incorrect due to the different thickness of the seams, which must be monitored during operation.
How to make a corner correctly?
Cords are pulled onto the base from both sides. Here it is important to correctly mark the 90º angle, for example, using a large angled ruler. The first row is laid in one direction according to the standard pattern, with the end of the first brick resting on the cord. The end of the first brick of the other wall rests on this brick. Next, put the 2nd row of the same, parallel to the first.
The second level begins with the laying of a quarter, then all the bricks are placed with the butt side. This is how suture dressing is observed. You should always remember to check the horizontal and vertical surfaces with a building level. The laying of the corners ends with the same quarters, if it is a butted row. The first 3 rows are laid as the first, and the 4th row is stitched.
How to work with facing bricks?
Its perfect exterior requires the same quality seam. It is created for finishing facades and interior walls, and does not require adjustment, like standard material. A thicker mortar is made for it, since the laying of facing bricks must be carried out without the mixture spreading. This means that it must be immediately fixed to the seam, the standard thickness of which is 9 mm.
The building mixture is prepared in small quantities, since it is undesirable to allow it to harden. Lay the facing brick without pressure; the mortar should not come out and stain it. The approximate proportions of the construction mixture are as follows: 100 kg of cement and 300 kg of sifted sand are mixed to a thick consistency. This amount of mortar is enough for a masonry of 1000 bricks.
Laying facing bricks with your own hands is similar to laying simple stone, but has its own nuances. The main task of such building material is finishing the facade of the building. In addition, it is used for cladding columns, fireplaces and other surfaces inside the structure, which will decorate the interior of your home.
The photo shows a tiled wall
Properties, sizes and types of bricks used for cladding
To decorate the interior or facade, you need to pay great attention to how to lay facing bricks. If we compare, for example, with, then it should have a high-quality front side of various shades and colors.
In addition to the commonly found standard colors (yellow and red), you can choose bricks in other colors. The front part can be smooth or decorative.
But the main difference between the cladding material and the simple one is the ideal dimensions, ends and right angles. The front side should not have various chips or deformations.
Main assumptions in dimensional deviation, in mm:
- by lenght - 4.4 ;
- by thickness – 2.3 ;
- in width – 3.3.
There are simple and clinker bricks for cladding; they are also distinguished by durability and quality. Simple water absorption is much higher, which is due to the large number of pores. Double sand-lime brick M 150 is often used.
Main dimensions, mm:
- ordinary – 250 X 120 X 65;
- narrow – 250 X 60 X 65;
- thickened – 250 X 120 X 88; 250 X 107 X 65; 230 X 107 X 65.
Let's figure out how to lay facing bricks correctly?
- For proper façade cladding, make vertical shrinkage and expansion joints on the wall every 4-5 meters along the entire height of the building.
- It needs to be dried for as long as possible.
- The rows are first laid dry to identify non-standard products.
- In the first row, the bricks are laid vertically. Such a row is made from whole products from below and above the wall, also on protruding parts, at the level of cut pillars and walls, under the supports of load-bearing structures (load-bearing slabs, beams, etc.).
After 3-4 rows, be sure to connect the load-bearing and facing walls with reinforcing mesh with a diameter of 2-3 mm, and the corner elements with anchors with a diameter of 6 mm.
- Seams - no more than 1.5 cm thick.
- Do not allow moisture to get on the material during work or on the finished wall. The top of the wall is covered with moisture-resistant material.
- To prevent the building material from getting wet, the laying is done using a hard mixture.
Brickwork under the template
A layer of mixture having a thickness of 0.8-1.0 cm is laid so that about 1 cm remains to the front edge of the brick - it is placed under the template (a wooden strip 600 mm wide and 0.8-1.0 cm thick, which has there is a longitudinal protrusion at the bottom. This protrusion rests on the front side, and the mixture is laid on it.
Today, a template for laying facing bricks is most often a calibrated metal rod (laying on a rod) with a square cross-section. The solution is made thick so that it does not spread under the weight of the building material.
The mortar is also fixed on the narrow edge of the brick: it is placed vertically on a horizontal surface and a cement-sand mixture is applied to it under the template, after which it is divided with a trowel between adjacent bricks and laid in a row of masonry.
How to properly lay facing material
If you want to do the masonry yourself, we would like to emphasize that such masonry is considered very labor-intensive and difficult, requiring special attention and precision. If there is a large amount of work, you will need a partner. And in this case, the price of masonry will increase.
Typically, facade material is laid simultaneously with the construction of the house, and the wall and facing masonry are connected with a special masonry mesh, and insulated inside as desired.
We will consider the option of masonry for cladding after the construction of a building for which building bricks were used. We especially note that the base is made to protrude beyond the wall by no less than 12.0 cm. This distance will make it possible to make a good stop for the wall under construction. In this case, you will have to strengthen and expand the base.
You need to decide on the tools you will need:
- concrete mixer;
- trowels;
- buckets;
- forests;
- threads;
- hammer;
- plumb line;
- a twig 80 cm long with a square section of 10X10 mm;
- round rod for sewing seams with a diameter of 10 cm.
Step-by-step instructions for laying:
- leveling the base;
- layout;
- cladding;
- washing (cleaning).
Note! Clean the surface immediately to remove any dirt. You can use a damp sponge. Do not allow the solution to dry.
First, we level the base horizontally with a mortar using a level or building code. Then we lay out the brick dry. This is done to correctly determine where to cut it, and where it is better to place the seams for a better connection in the corners.
In places where there are openings for windows and doors, the rows should not be interrupted, otherwise in the future a similar layout will appear above the door or window. Here the brick is cut.
For such work, it is better to use a solution in a ratio of 1:4. If possible, take fine sand from a quarry containing some clay. If you have an assistant, mix the mixture in a concrete mixer; you can also mix it in small portions using a mixer. Constant compliance with proportions is very important.
The twig must be placed on the edge of the brick, then the mortar is placed just above the twig, which is used as a template for laying facing bricks, and we install it by hitting it with a hammer or the handle of a trowel so that it touches the twig.
When the brick is large and touches the cord, then the twig is removed and placed to the level of the thread. This is the method used to achieve identical seams. If the front side is dirty, clean it with a dry cloth before the solution dries.
It is very important to make the correct connection to the wall. If the wall does not have twigs and mesh for plaster protruding from the wall. Therefore, we attach it to the wall using dowels and a well-bending knitting wire.
How to do it:
- a 6-piece dowel is driven into the wall;
- a wire is screwed to the cap, the length of which should be equal to the width of the brick;
- the ends of the wire should be inside the masonry and not stick out;
- The height is knitted in 4 rows, and the width is 60-70 cm.
Linking can be done in various ways. The main thing is a good connection between the wall and the cladding.
The space between the wall and the cladding cannot be filled with mortar. Be sure to make a gap that contributes to good thermal insulation of the building.
Openings for doors and windows are made with a column, laying brick on the narrow side. For slopes, if desired, you can use a material of a different color. The seams are unstitched when laying, so that the scaffolding does not move again.
Then the seams are filled with mortar and rubbed using a round rod. At the end of the jointing, wipe the finished surface with a dry cloth. That's it, the masonry is finished.
Summary
This technology is used if, upon completion of work, no additional finishing materials will be applied to the façade of the structure. Masonry under jointing allows you to make the surface aesthetically attractive. As for facing bricks, they are almost always laid using this method.
Brick laying under jointing is used for the external walls of a building and allows you to achieve a smooth and beautiful surface.
To work, in addition to bricks, you need to prepare:
- solution with plasticizer;
- metal sponge or brush;
- water;
- "joint";
- trowel;
Before starting laying, please note that all excess mortar must be removed as quickly as possible using a trowel. The solution should not extend beyond the masonry surface.
Professionals remind you that bricklaying for jointing is carried out in such a way that the mortar layer is given a special shape. Depending on the design idea, it can be:
- triangular;
- concave;
- convex;
- shaped.
This effect can be achieved thanks to the unique geometry of the working tool - the “joint”. Excess mortar is immediately removed so as not to spoil the appearance of the facade. A trowel is used for this. The mixture is treated with jointing when it begins to set. In the process of exposure to the solution, it is pressed into the seam by 3-4 mm and thoroughly compacted. A high-quality sealed seam allows you to increase the strength characteristics of the future wall and improve the appearance of the facade.
When is it better to lay brick under the jointing? The work completion time is selected depending on the following factors:
- plasticity and consistency of the building mixture;
- air humidity and temperature indicators;
- speed of laying bricks by a bricklayer.
Most often, this technology begins to be used when the first 4 rows of masonry are ready.
Facade cladding
Before laying bricks, it is necessary to clean the surface from any contamination. To do this, use a metal sponge or brush. It is acceptable to use a rag or a wet sponge made of soft materials. The first step is to unstitch the seams located in the vertical direction. After this, they begin to work with horizontal seams.
The plasticity of the resulting joints is ensured by special plasticizers, which are included in the construction mixture. Without them, the solution will not be able to fully perform its functions.
Why is masonry under jointing impossible when using mortar without special plasticizers? These components provide the necessary plasticity of the composition, thanks to which the master can give the seams the desired shape. Laying material containing additional additives is much easier. It is possible to embroider masonry with mortar without plasticizers, but there is a high probability that in some places the structure will tear the seams. The use of a non-plastic building mixture requires constant wetting of the seams during work.
Applying a template
Brick facades can take different shapes. To ensure the same joint thickness in each place of the facade and to embed the mortar to the same depth, special templates are used. Their profile corresponds to the masonry profile that you would like to see upon completion of the work.
Using a template ensures that the brickwork will have a uniform thickness of mortar layer. At the same time, the construction mixture itself does not fall on the facade of the building and will not harm the decorative surface. This is especially important when the outer surface of the brick has a torn texture that imitates natural stone. This technology allows not only the construction of new masonry, but also the restoration of existing ones.
Masonry methods
There are several options for laying the first row of facing bricks.
The most widespread method is in which lighthouse bricks are placed along the edges of the facade.
The level of these elements is determined using a laser or hydraulic instruments. A thread is pulled between two beacons. It is important to make sure that the thread is absolutely straight. According to this guideline, the first row is laid out, which is considered the most difficult.
Subsequent rows of facing bricks are oriented towards the previous ones. It should be remembered that with a significant width of the facade, there is a high probability of thread sagging, which can affect the quality of the masonry. To solve the problem, an additional landmark is placed in the central part of the facade.
When laying bricks under jointing, it is extremely important to evenly distribute the building mixture. As soon as the row is ready, the solution is laid out on it in a slide. Its height should be twice the dimensions of the construction tool. After this, the next row of bricks is laid, carefully tapping each piece with a tool.
The seam is made using jointing. It is placed on both sides of the building product to determine the level of the seam. They do the same until the work is completed. When the solution begins to harden, the seams are further smoothed.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-n0SoWsmFc
When laying bricks under jointing, it is necessary to regularly moisten the working tool with clean water. It will begin to slide easily through the mixture, ensuring high quality construction. Remaining solution should be removed using a wire brush.
Properly laid brick for jointing guarantees the durability of the masonry and its high quality. Masonry can be done in many ways. In addition to straight lines, they often resort to artistic and decorative masonry. The chosen option determines the appearance of the facade.
Classic seam design remains the most popular. When arranging each row, it is important to control the evenness of the seams and their quality.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcs2MxqPRUM
Choose the type of masonry based on your own preferences and experience. It is better to entrust all decorative techniques to professionals.
The choice of brick as a building material is justified for several reasons. Firstly, high strength and reliability of buildings is ensured. Secondly, the durability of baked or sand-lime bricks is measured over centuries, as exemplified by architectural monuments. And thirdly, brickwork looks aesthetically pleasing, especially if the mason is fluent in the technology of jointing. Such knowledge is useful not only when constructing new buildings, but also for restoring unsightly old walls.
Definition of jointing of brickwork, its features and types
Embroidered brick or stonework looks beautiful and aesthetically pleasing
Experienced masons know that to increase the strength and thermal insulation properties of a structure, all joints of brick or masonry must be completely filled with mortar. Unfortunately, during this process, part of the cement-sand mixture is squeezed out of the space between the rubble or bricks, and therefore has an unaesthetic appearance. Joining helps to put walls in order - the process of compacting and improving the seams to increase their strength and visual appeal. At the same time, a clear geometric pattern appears on the masonry, and the structure takes on a completed appearance.
Joining of brick walls is carried out in the following cases:
- Directly during construction, when finishing is carried out until the mortar has completely set. This reduces the labor intensity of the work and allows you to obtain a dense and even seam;
- To improve the appearance and extend the life of old brick walls. In this case, it is better to carry out the procedure in dry, cool weather, since a thin layer of solution will dry quickly in the heat and therefore will not provide good adhesion to the old surface.
Wall jointing is not required if the walls will be plastered. In this case, to increase the strength of the plaster layer, the seams are not filled with mortar to a depth of 15 mm, resulting in a so-called waste area.
Sometimes jointing is done on internal surfaces in order to decorate walls or parts thereof.
Depending on the goals and aesthetic preferences, you can get seams of various shapes:
Sometimes craftsmen are not limited to the standard set of configurations, making joints of more intricate shapes. In addition, in order to improve the aesthetics of masonry, specialists often resort to different thicknesses of the mortar layer, making horizontal joints wider than vertical ones.
Advantages and disadvantages
The advantages provided by jointing brickwork are obvious:
- finishing using this method practically does not require the cost of building materials, while covering with clapboard or siding, plastering for painting or a “fur coat” will require additional funds;
- due to the rapid drying of wall masonry with an embroidered surface, construction time is significantly reduced;
- no restoration or repair work will be required over a long period of operation;
- the work does not require high qualifications, it can be easily done with your own hands;
- embroidered walls can be finished in another way at any time, without resorting to dismantling the sheathing or removing the plaster.
The disadvantages of this method include lower thermal insulation of walls compared to other methods. In addition, when constructing walls made of sand-lime bricks, increased care will be required, since surfaces contaminated with cement mortar will be problematic to clean.
Required tools and materials
Before you start jointing the brickwork, you should prepare the following tools and materials:
- brushes - with hard bristles and wire;
- hammer;
- a stitching tool, which can be used as a finished factory product or home-made devices;
- a flat wooden strip with a length of at least 1 m;
- roller or soft brush to wet the surface.
If you plan to restore an old wall, you will additionally need:
- a hammer drill, a wooden wedge or a narrow chisel with the width of the working part slightly less than the thickness of the seam;
- a special mixer designed for mixing the solution;
- container for preparing cement-sand mixture;
- trowel or trowel.
In addition, you will need cement, sand, lime and water in the required quantities.
Preparatory activities
Joining can be carried out immediately after laying the brick or after erecting the walls. In the first case, the mason brings the masonry into proper shape after several rows have been completed and the mortar begins to set.
In the second case, when laying, the master leaves the outer part of the seam empty for subsequent filling with jointing mixture, and they begin refining the wall after a certain time has passed, necessary for complete shrinkage of the masonry.
Before restoring old masonry, it is necessary to remove the mortar from the joints to a depth of 15 mm and clean the wall from dust and dirt
Preparing the masonry is carried out in the following sequence:
- If it is necessary to update the cladding of an old wall, parts of the old jointing are removed from the seams to a depth of 10 - 15 mm. To avoid damaging the bricks, it is better to use a narrow wooden wedge and a hammer. If it is not possible to knock off parts of the frozen solution, use a chisel;
- Use improvised means to remove dust and dirt from the walls of the building;
- The seams are cleaned using a stiff brush or a high-pressure apparatus. This work should be carried out very carefully, since dirt and dust particles interfere with the adhesion of the jointing solution;
- After cleaning, the seams are moistened using a roller or soft brush and a bucket of water.
The preparation of the cement-sand mixture begins only after the surface has been completely prepared for the next stage, at which the jointing solution is prepared.
You can make the jointing mixture yourself or use a ready-made factory-prepared mixture, which is sold dry. and in wet form. Since the solution is used for decorative purposes, concrete dyes can be added to it.
A concrete mixer will speed up the process of preparing the jointing mixture
If you prefer to do everything yourself, then to prepare the optimal mixture, take lime, sand and cement in a ratio of 1:10:1 and mix with water until the consistency of very thick sour cream is obtained. Remember that the composition remains mobile for up to 1.5–2 hours, so mix only the amount that you can use during this time.
If the mixture you receive is too liquid, you can remove excess moisture from it by placing dry red brick in a container with the solution for 1 - 2 minutes.
For large volumes of work and the presence of assistants, a concrete mixer will help speed up the process.
Sequence of work
The technology for laying out a new wall and reconstructing an old finishing coating are different, so we will consider them separately.
Under construction
Processing of seams during construction is carried out every time after laying several rows of bricks. The starting point for the work can be the beginning of setting of the solution - it must remain plastic.
We present to your attention the algorithm for this process:
Filling the seams is carried out in the following sequence: first vertical seams, and then horizontal ones, while moving along the treated surface from top to bottom.
After the mortar has completely set, the wall is cleaned of particles of the jointing mortar using a broom or brush.
In the process of reconstructing the old masonry
Over time, the mortar crumbles out of the brickwork, exposing the joints between the bricks. This allows moisture to penetrate, causing cracks to appear in the seams and adjacent bricks. After this, the destruction of the masonry occurs in geometric progression.
You can stop the process by restoring the seams and unstitching them. A nice addition would be to improve the appearance of the brick walls.
According to the previously presented method, preparatory measures are carried out, during which the surface of the walls is cleaned, and the seams are deepened using a hammer and chisel. Further work is performed in this sequence.
When facing walls with brick, a certain skill is required, because the masonry must be perfectly smooth and neat. To do this yourself, you need to study in detail how to lay facing bricks, what types of masonry there are, and how to do jointing correctly. Finishing with such bricks is highly valued for its visual appeal and durability.
Bricklaying Tools
| Brick parameters | Hyperpressed brick | Clinker brick | Sand-lime brick | Ceramic brick |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Compressive strength, kg/cm² | 150-300 | 300-500 | 75-200 | 100-175 |
| Frost resistance, cycle | 75-150 | 50-100 | 35-50 | 15-50 |
| Moisture absorption,% | 6-8 | Less than 6 | 6-12 | 6-8 |
| Thermal conductivity, W/m° C | 0,7-0,8 | 0,7 | 0,3-0,7 | 0,3-0,5 |
| Weight for size 250x120x65., kg. | 4 | 3-4 | 3,8 | 3,5 |
For high-quality cladding you need the appropriate tools:
- building level - without it it will not be possible to lay bricks in even rows;
- trowel - it is used to apply the mortar, remove excess, and trim the brick when laying;
- hammer-pick - used for splitting facing material;
- grinder with diamond blades – used for cutting bricks;
- a square metal rod with a cross section of 10x10 mm - for forming identical seams between the rows;
- round rod with a diameter of 10 mm - for jointing.
Additionally, you will need a thin construction cord or strong thread, anchors and tying wire to connect the masonry to the load-bearing wall.
Types of masonry
Based on the location of the bricks in a row, there are several types of masonry:
- front (bed) - the brick is laid so that the widest side is visible;
- spoon - the long narrow side is visible from the outside;
- bonded - only the ends of the bricks are visible from the outside.
In addition, masonry is divided into types according to decorativeness:
- “half-brick” masonry - the vertical seams of the spoon or bed masonry are shifted horizontally by half the length of the brick;
- stacked - vertical seams between bricks are located on the same line;
- Flemish - spoon and bonded masonry alternate in one row;
- “American” - spoon and butt masonry alternate in rows.
If you have no experience, it is better to start with a standard half-brick spoon masonry, and as your skill improves, you can try other methods. It should be noted that stacked masonry is the most unstable, therefore it is used exclusively for decorative purposes.
Brick cladding technology
Step 1. Preparing the base
The facing must be laid on the plinth, therefore, when pouring and insulating the foundation, provide for a protrusion of the plinth around the perimeter of the house to the thickness of the facing masonry plus 2-3 cm for an air gap. Before starting work, you should check the base with a building level to eliminate possible distortions. If any irregularities are found, they are eliminated with cement mortar. After this, the surface must be thoroughly swept.
Step 2. Mixing the solution
For brick mortar, it is prepared from M500 cement and clean fine sand. The components are mixed in a ratio of 1:4, and water is added in small portions. The finished mixture should be homogeneous and thick enough; if the ball rolled from the solution does not fall apart and holds its shape well, the consistency is considered correct. Be sure to use clean water for mixing, with a minimum amount of salts, otherwise unaesthetic whitish spots will appear on the lining - efflorescence, which is not so easy to remove. An important point: you need to mix the solution in a small volume, since the installation process takes time, and the solution dries quickly.
Step 3. Laying the bottom row
Place a container of water next to the workplace and soak the bricks in it. Experienced builders recommend laying the bottom row without mortar. Since the length of the perimeter of the house is not always a multiple of the length of the brick, in certain places you will have to trim the brick and choose the optimal location of the seams. If you lay the first row on mortar, trimming will be more problematic. They start working from the corner: using a level, each brick is laid on top and the seams are leveled. Be sure to leave 2-3 centimeters of free space between the load-bearing wall and the cladding for ventilation.
Step 4. Laying corners
Now you need to lay out the corners to a height of 4-6 rows. Place a square rod on the bottom row along the outer edge, pick up a little mortar with a trowel and carefully apply it. Having slightly leveled the mortar, lay a brick on top, knocking it down with the handle of a trowel so that it comes into contact with the rod. Check the location with a level, if necessary, knock it down again. Carefully remove the rod, wipe off the crumbs of the solution, and then repeat the same on the other side of this corner. When laying the following bricks, make sure that the corner is tied correctly: the ends should alternate with long edges on both sides.
Step 5. Wall cladding
When all the corners are laid out, proceed to. A strong thread is pulled between the corner bricks of the second row, laid on top and secured with something heavy. Now place a rod on the edge of the first row and cover the surface of the masonry with mortar. The bricks intended for this row are placed vertically on the ground, a little mortar is applied to the ends with a trowel, and then laid on the mortar with careful movements. Each of them is tapped, guided by the thread, the rod is removed, and the row is checked using a level.
Step 6. Attaching the cladding to the wall
If the brick cladding was not originally planned, it is necessary to tie it to the load-bearing wall. This is done in two ways: using anchors and dowels with binding wire. In the first option, the anchor is driven halfway into the wall of the building, leaving the second part between the rows of cladding. It is better to take galvanized anchors with a diameter of 6 mm.
Second option: holes are drilled in the wall, dowels are inserted, and tie wire is attached to them. The wire should lie on the brick, but not extend beyond its edge. As a standard, fasteners are installed through 4 vertical rows and at a horizontal distance of 70 cm. About 5 fastenings are required per square meter of surface. Around the openings, the distance between the dowels is reduced by about a third.
The remaining rows are made according to the same scheme: they pull the thread between the corner elements at the height of the row, lay the rod, then the mortar and bricks. It should be noted that the width of horizontal seams should be 10-15 mm, and vertical seams a little less - from 8 to 10 mm. This type of masonry will look most attractive. Near the door and window openings, the brick is cut and fastened so that the row on the other side is not interrupted, then the masonry pattern above the opening will remain correct. Step 7. Laying the slopes
For greater decorativeness, the slopes are laid out from bricks of a different color. Along the perimeter of the slopes, cladding is carried out using the butting method; the resulting columns, one brick wide, may protrude slightly beyond the edge of the wall cladding. The slopes themselves must be strictly vertical, so when laying, control is carried out using the building level.
Step 7. Joining
As soon as the solution has set, you can begin to joint the masonry. The surface is swept, crumbs of mortar are removed, and the masonry is moistened with water. Prepare a working solution: mix cement and lime in equal parts, and then add sand. The ratio of sand to cement is 10:1, so much water is added so that the mixture acquires the consistency of a paste. After this, the seams are filled with mortar and they begin to be formed using jointing. The vertical seams are formed first, then the horizontal ones are unstitched.
You cannot lay out more than 6-7 rows at a time, as the masonry may become deformed under heavy load. Every 3-4 rows are checked with a level to achieve maximum verticality. You cannot fill the gap between the cladding and the wall of the building with anything; the air gap is necessary for ventilation of the surfaces, moreover, it also performs thermal insulation functions. Slope jointing can be done immediately after laying, so as not to rearrange the scaffolding twice.
Prices for construction and facing bricks
Construction and facing bricks
Video - How to lay facing bricks
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