Do-it-yourself small stove for the garage. Wood-burning stove for the garage: which is better. Preparatory work before assembling the furnace: choosing a location

Most car enthusiasts have a garage, which often serves not only as a haven for their favorite car, but is also used as a workshop or a place for men’s conversations. It often happens that in cold weather, warming up the engine takes longer than the trip itself, and as a result, the relevance of the planned trip is reduced to zero. And discussing the latest trends in the field of motor transport with friends is much more comfortable in a warm room. Agree that it is much better to carry out car repairs or other activities in a warm place. Therefore, be sure to take care of heating the garage space.

The right solution to a “cold” situation would be a DIY garage oven. Preparing components and assembling them yourself will not be difficult if you have even a little skill in working with different materials and tools.

When choosing the right type of stove for your garage, the main considerations are:

What types of ovens are there?

Modern garage heating units available for sale on the market have certain characteristics that allow the equipment to be classified. The main factor is the type of heating material.

Based on this principle, the following types of heating equipment are distinguished:

Requirements for the design of a stove for a garage

To decide on the type of stove, answer yourself the following few questions:

How much money are you willing to spend on a heating device?
What is the area of the proposed garage space for heating?
How long do you plan to heat the garage?

Important! If the garage is an extension to a living space, then we recommend installing a unit connected to a common gas or electrical network. If this is an autonomous room that does not have residential buildings with communications nearby, make a separate system.

To ensure that the oven does not cause inconvenience during operation, the following characteristics will be suitable parameters for the unit being created:

How to assemble a wood stove structure with your own hands?

An economical, self-assembled wood-burning stove is considered the easiest to maintain and is ideal for heating self-contained garage buildings. Often in the household of a car enthusiast there is a heating structure called a potbelly stove.

Benefits of a wood stove

This stove has a lot of advantages, including:

Features of the design of the stove-stove

The type of stove design “potbelly stove” does not have clear regulations.

Each master can build this design, taking into account his own preferences, but in any case, such a stove has the main structural elements:

Important! If you modernize the design of the potbelly stove, you will be able to significantly save firewood consumption. This effect can be achieved if the pipe is welded to the stove body above the door, and not, as is customary, at the back near the wall. Thanks to this installation of the pipe, the walls of the structure will heat up first, and only then the firewood will enter the pipe. Due to this, the heat transfer time will increase, since a brick, concrete-clay or insulated metal pipeline cools much more slowly than a steel body.

Materials for constructing a wood stove

To assemble a wood stove yourself, you will need to purchase the following materials:

Installation technology

How to operate a wood stove?

After assembling the stove design, initially test it for proper functioning. Follow these steps:

Video

Watch the video, which clearly shows an example of creating and operating a wood-burning stove with your own hands.

Stove in progress

Compared to other similar designs, an oil-fired garage stove stands out for its efficiency, ease of operation and inexpensive combustible material. The design of the mining stove is similar to the design of a potbelly stove.

Application benefits

Among the characteristic advantages are the following:

Materials for construction

You can construct a furnace for mining yourself, which will not require a lot of effort and will not take much time. To build a homemade garage stove, you will need:

Installation technology for a garage stove using oil

To construct a “working out” stove with your own hands, follow these steps:

As a result of correctly performed work, you will receive a unit with the following parameters:

Rules for operating the stove during “working out”

To ensure that the result of the stove’s operation is justified and that it fully heats the garage space, carefully read the following operating recommendations:

How does the stove work?

To set up a homemade furnace for a working garage, do the following:

Video

To more clearly imagine the principle of the design of such a furnace and operation, watch the video below.

The main criterion in relation to the construction of a brick stove is compliance with compact dimensions, and in all other respects the system of such a stove is similar to the previous options.

To properly build a brick stove, be sure to adhere to the following recommendations:

Conclusion

Whatever type of stove design for your garage you choose, in any case, it will give the expected result. With the help of any simple unit proposed above, you can always maintain a warm climate inside the garage. And in comfortable conditions, it’s more pleasant to carry out repair work and have conversations with friends.

A simple do-it-yourself wood-burning garage stove can be made from different materials - brick, an old gas cylinder or a metal barrel with thick walls. A wood-burning stove can also be made from a piece of thick-walled pipe.

The main thing, when installing a solid fuel stove in the garage, is to arrange good ventilation of the room - forced or natural.

It is easy to make the following solid fuel stove designs yourself:

– reliable and safe, requires some bricklaying skills;
potbelly stove - easy to make from pipes, cylinders or thick-walled barrels;
long-burning wood-burning stoves - you will need a cone firebox (cylinder, pipe) and a welding machine;
waste oil stove - you will need pipes, a drill, welding and a diagram. Be sure to protect the oven from moisture and dampness.

If we compare designs, potbelly stoves heat up quickly, but do not retain heat, unlike bricks. Long-burning stoves require strict adherence to the dimensions according to the diagram, and waste oil stoves cannot be installed in garages made of flammable materials.

Option one - reliable and efficient brick

Sequential scheme for laying bricks in a simple stove for a garage

Brick wood-burning is a traditional reliable heating option. Compared to metal boilers and potbelly stoves, brick is safer, but such a stove takes longer to heat up and also cools down.

In order to build a wood-burning brick oven with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

fire brick;
high-fat clay for masonry mortar. It is easier to buy ready-made refractory mortar for laying refractory bricks; it contains all the necessary additives.

Advice. Check the fat content by rolling a ball out of wet clay. If such a ball, thrown on the floor, cracks, then the clay is not suitable - low elasticity (fat content). Masonry clay must be soaked for at least 24 hours before mixing the solution.

cement M300 and sand for the cement foundation of the stove;
doors for the ash pit and firebox;
grate material;
asbestos thread for sealing;
chimney valve;
chimney pipe – asbestos or two-layer stainless steel.

Advice. If you make the chimney removable, then in the summer you can use the hole as additional natural ventilation.

We choose a place for the stove so that the chimney does not come into contact with the roofing and the stove does not interfere with movement.

The sequence of laying a simple brick stove for a garage, dimensions 60x60 cm, this is quite enough for a standard garage:

The foundation for a small stove should not be made strong; 50 cm is enough. If you plan to have a tall stove, you can perform additional reinforcement of the foundation cement screed.

Note. If the garage has a concrete screed, then the foundation for the stove does not need to be poured.

after the cement has hardened, you need to lay 2 layers of waterproofing (roofing felt) and you can start laying the furnace;
solid base of the furnace - two continuous rows of bricks;
We expose the ash pan door, fixing it with wire on four sides for rigidity. The wire is fixed with masonry mortar;
ordering a brick oven for a garage - the order of masonry is easier to understand by watching the video material.

During the laying process, we check each row with a water level; it is important to maintain horizontal and vertical lines. Installation of the grate additionally requires sealing with asbestos thread.

You can upgrade a brick stove to the “rocket” type, in which case the heat transfer is doubled by using the heat of the chimney pipes.

When a brick oven is built with your own hands, you cannot immediately test and heat it. The masonry needs to be completely dry.

Option two - homemade potbelly stove

If you have a welding machine, potbelly stoves, proven and simple designs, can be made in one day. To fire a potbelly stove, you can use thick-walled pipes, barrels and gas cylinders. A rectangular potbelly stove can be welded from a metal corner and steel sheets (3 mm thick).

Important rules for locating a potbelly stove in the garage

In order to avoid fire, you must follow the following fire safety rules when installing a homemade potbelly stove:

distance to walls and flammable objects - a meter, distance to a brick wall - 0.5 meters;
the walls and ceiling around the stove are additionally sheathed with sheets of metal;
a thick metal sheet is placed under the stove - 10 mm or a cement screed is made - thickness 20 cm;
It is necessary to install ventilation (forced or natural) so that if there is smoke there is no trouble. A 5 cm gap under the garage door or two exhaust vents under the roof will ensure sufficient natural ventilation of the room.

The distance from the stove to the car must be at least two meters. If you come into close contact with the hot walls of the stove, there is a risk of damage to the paint or ignition of the fuel.

An additional protective casing made of brick walls will not only create a convection flow of warm air and increase heat transfer, but also ensure safety.

Note. Only square or rectangular potbelly stoves can be covered with bricks. A furnace in the form of a cylinder requires a special design of the casing, in the form of side metal ribs. A brick casing for the cylinder will reduce heat transfer and lead to rapid burning of the walls.

How to make a simple square potbelly stove

For a standard garage, a heating device 30 x 30, 50 cm high is quite enough. The diameter of the pipe for a potbelly stove is at least 30 cm, the wall thickness is at least 5 mm. For a chimney, a pipe with a diameter of 12–15 cm and a thickness of 3 mm is suitable. To prevent the chimney pipe from quickly becoming frozen, it is wrapped on the outside with a layer of mineral wool.

Work order:

First, we draw the cutting of the stove parts, determine all the dimensions;
we cut out the necessary parts from sheet metal to size;
First, we weld the walls and bottom of the oven together, but only grab them. To be able to set all sides strictly according to level;
after checking the vertical and horizontal lines, you can weld all connections using a T-weld;
We install the lower partition into the finished housing. You immediately need to drill holes in it to remove ash (the step between the holes is one and a half centimeters, from the walls - 5 cm);
the partition is located no lower than 10 cm from the bottom;
cut out a circle in the back wall to install the chimney pipe;
firebox and blower doors - distance from the wall - 5 cm;
when attaching the door curtains, you need to take into account that they will sag due to temperature, so we attach them 2 cm higher;
The last to be installed are the legs of the potbelly stove - the height is at least 15 cm and the top sheet of the stove is installed.

In order to obtain maximum heat transfer, the stove pipe should not be straight. It is necessary to install pipes with two 30-degree turns and lead them through the wall of the garage. Then the combustion products will give off all the heat not to the street, but to the room.

The video shows how to make a simple potbelly stove from a metal sheet and corners and from an old gas cylinder.

Option three - waste oil stove

This heating device provides maximum heat transfer and requires virtually no fuel costs - there is always used oil in the garage. The only disadvantage of this stove is that it requires a high chimney, and combustion products create soot that will have to be cleaned frequently.

Mini wheels for cars. Let's watch the video, making such a stove is a couple of trifles.

Option four - long-burning wood stove

Maintaining a positive temperature in a garage is difficult, especially in a metal or profile structure, even insulated. Therefore, long-burning stoves are the best solution for a garage, where you just need to maintain the temperature above zero, so as not to warm up the engine every day and not spoil the spark plugs and drain the battery.

Such a stove can be made from an old gas cylinder, sheets of metal and even brick. The point is that in such a stove the access of air to the firebox is limited and the wood does not burn, but smolders, maximizing the fuel efficiency.

By placing firewood into such a stove from above, the fuel is pressed as it burns by a metal piston.

From a simple old barrel you can make a heating device for a garage that runs on sawdust, ash and construction waste.

Even if you make a long-burning stove completely correctly with your own hands, you may not achieve maximum heat and the consumption of wood will be high. The reason is incorrect fuel filling. Firewood cannot be stacked vertically in the stove - only horizontal stacking.

The video describes the reasons why fuel in a stove with wood on top does not burn out completely.

As a conclusion, is it possible to heat a garage with such a wood stove? If you follow important safety rules, then such heating devices are an excellent alternative solution for small garages without an electrical connection.

What is important to remember:

you need high-quality garage ventilation to avoid smoke fumes and fire;
it is necessary to protect the metal parts of the heating device with a casing made of fire-resistant materials;
the chimney must be routed so that it does not come into contact with the wooden rafters of the roof;
there must be at least two meters from the hot walls of the stove to the car;
Water from the chimney must not be allowed to enter the firebox; a protective cap must be installed on the pipe;
choose durable materials for the stove;
a waste oil stove may explode if moisture gets into the firebox;
To prevent condensation from flooding the chimney, it is insulated with mineral wool and foil or removable galvanized pipes with internal insulation with mineral wool are installed.

The safest option for any garage is a long-burning brick stove or one protected by a casing made of refractory bricks.

For car enthusiasts, a garage is a personal space for doing what you love. The space is arranged to suit your own needs, be it a workshop or even a place to relax. That’s why it’s so important to come up with high-quality garage heating. We will try to find the most economical way in this review. With the right approach, the heating system in the garage will be economical and safe.

High-quality heating allows you to create comfortable conditions in any garage

If the outbuilding is located next to the main building, gas heating is often used. In this case, the heating system can be connected to an existing one in the house.

To heat your garage yourself economically, you can use the heating option using different types of solid fuel raw materials. Which can be used as firewood, peat, coal and diesel products. At the same time, you can save on resources, but it is important to think about the storage of raw materials.

For your information! A simple solution is a gas convector. In such equipment, heat circulation occurs due to convection. The device is connected to a cylinder, but it will need to be refilled every few days.

What heating methods are there for a garage?

The most economical way to heat a garage is determined by many factors: availability of fuel raw materials, financial capabilities and distance from the main home.

Heating of the engine shelter can be carried out by the following devices:

mobile equipment: heat guns and fans for heating;

Related article:

The advantage of such equipment is mobility. After all, you can simply move them wherever you need. Read the article on how to choose this device correctly and what you should pay attention to.

infrared heaters;

electric boiler is suitable for spacious rooms; stationary heaters.

High-quality heating equipment is important to create a favorable environment in the garage.

Advantages of electric heating in a garage

ease of installation and availability of electricity;
a wide selection of devices of various types;
you can choose a device with suitable power;
rapid heat transfer.

The disadvantages of such equipment include its high cost. Keep in mind that the quality of heating depends on the uninterrupted operation of the electrical network.

You can use these methods:

heat guns are an inexpensive option; after heating, air masses in them are distributed under the influence of a fan;
infrared equipment heats surfaces and all kinds of objects, and they provide heat. Infrared rays will not harm the car's paint;
the convector warms itself up and distributes the heat around. It heats the space worse than a cannon, but the heat lasts for a long time;
The most expensive options include inverter split systems. They allow you to save electricity.

Helpful information! Thermal models are recommended for small spaces. Fan heaters and heat guns not only warm up, but also help dry the wheels and bottom of the car.

Water heating

If the garage is built close to the main building, then the most economical option is to heat the garage in connection with the main heating system.

In this case, you do not need to install a boiler, but you will need to extend the pipeline. This option will lead to loads and an increase in the amount of fuel. If a separate boiler is used, then full power can be used if necessary, and in other cases the equipment operates at rated level.

Note! To avoid defrosting, you should use antifreeze instead of water in the system.

Gas heating

The most effective option is gas. This is a good solution in cases where there is a gas main nearby. To install such a heat source, it is necessary to draw up design documentation and obtain a special permit. Using gas requires compliance with all safety measures. It is prohibited to use a homemade device or connect any equipment.

Using gas, you can create a complete heating system with a boiler and pipes. It is also used for various types of heaters.

Helpful information! Alternatively, you can use liquefied gas for convectors, infrared heaters or guns. When using gas burners and heat guns, do not forget to ventilate.

Solid fuel - a budget option

If you have solid fuel, you can even make a homemade heating structure in the garage. In terms of saving characteristics, coal and firewood are superior to other options. Various industrial waste, combustible waste, and plant residues are used as fuel. This option does not depend on energy lines.

As a heating device, you can make a stove with your own hands from sheet material, a barrel or from fittings. This heating method is more fire hazardous than others. It is necessary to constantly maintain combustion. Some devices are not environmentally friendly.

Wood-burning stoves are available in different options. These are potbelly stoves, long-burning devices, brick structures and pyrolysis devices. A potbelly stove is perfect for small spaces, and it also dries the air. Boilers are a safer option. They can work without the constant presence of a person.

Equipment operating during mining

Devices using waste oils are an economical option. They are used not only in garages, but also for heating private auto repair shops. You can see how to make a heater for heating in a garage with your own hands in the video. Metal pipes, all kinds of tanks and gas cylinders are suitable for this. Even on the basis of a stove, you can make a structure with radiators and pipes.

Remember that such structures require good care. They need to be cleaned of soot at least once a week.

Note! To install the stove, a chimney is required, the height of which should be about 4 meters. Its installation is carried out at a certain slope.

Related article:

A heating device using waste engine oil is an economical and simple solution to the problem of heating a garage, workshop, greenhouse and even a home. We will look at how to make it yourself in the article.

Review of popular models of garage stoves

There are a variety of options for garage stoves on the markets. They differ in the heating principle and design solutions. Some models deserve special attention:

The Bullerian stove is made to run on solid fuel. The design has a convection mechanism for high-quality heating of air masses that move through the pipes;
a durable option is the Stavr stove. It is made of cast iron, a similar material can withstand high temperatures;
Termafor stoves have convection pipes in their design, which are placed in the combustion chamber. Such models are designed for both standard and pyrolysis combustion;
The Alaska stove has a stylish design and good heat output. The design is equipped with a hob;
A cheap alternative to Buleryan is the model of the domestic manufacturer Breneran. It can operate on wood and waste from the manufacturer.

Model	Construction type	Price, rub
"Delta" D-81G	Heat gun	3930
Ballu BHDN-80	Diesel indirect heating device	55900
ELITECH TP 3G	Ceramic gas panel	2960
Resanta	Gas heat gun	6700
Breneran AOT – 06/00	Wood stove	10500

How to make garage heating with your own hands cheaply and quickly: choosing the right place

The location for installing the equipment is selected taking into account fire safety. Heating appliances powered by gas can be used in rooms with excellent ventilation. In addition, it is important to consider the chimney device. The selected device should be attached to the main wall. It is important to correctly calculate the performance of the hood. It is important to provide free access to heating equipment.

Note! When using hearths with an open fire, do not close the vent until the fuel has completely burned out. You must remember to turn off heating devices for the garage at night.

Using an economical heating method will allow you to fully use the garage at any time of the year.

The most economical option for heating a garage (video)

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Well, the red summer has sung. And again the question arises: you still need a stove for the garage! Due to the warmth, there was no time to think about her; all sorts of chores got in the way. Now, as they say, the rooster has pecked: even though antifreeze is poured into the cooling system of the car, the battery withers in the cold. Okay, let it be with gel electrolyte; it is not afraid of sulfation in any frost. But the capacity still drops, the oil thickens, the car starts poorly, and the engine takes a long time to warm up. And it’s not at all comfortable to do something in the “stall” when you’re trembling and your teeth are chattering Strauss waltzes on their own.

Shall we make a garage stove with our own hands? The thing seems to be simple. Not exactly, the garage needs to be heated differently. Otherwise, heating, especially if the garage is industrial and people are there all day, will take too much fuel. Buy a ready-made oven? There are special garage ones for sale, but what are the sellers’ promises worth? And how to choose the right one for this particular garage? And in order for the heat to pass into the pit, it will not benefit your health in any way if your arms are always above your head and your legs are cold. It is advisable, of course, to buy one that is cheaper, heats well, and lasts a long time.

How does the garage cool down?

But why does the garage need to be heated differently than the house? It is much smaller; this is where the square-cube law, which is in the minds of techies, comes into play: as the size of a geometric body decreases, the ratio of its surface to volume increases. Accordingly, both a home-made stove for a garage and a ready-made branded one must have a thermal power per unit volume of the room greater than that of a house stove. Let's explain with an example.

Here is a house, 10x12 m in plan, height with a base and ceilings of 5 m. For simplicity, let’s take a flat roof, this will not change the essence of the matter. The total volume of the house will then be 10x12x5 = 600 cubic meters. m, and its surface area, including the floor (heat also escapes through it) 10x5x2 (2 short walls) + 12x5x2 (2 long) + 10x12x2 (floor and roof) = 100 + 120 + 240 = 460 sq. m. For one cube of volume there are 460/600 = 0.77 square meters through which heat escapes.

Now a standard garage, 4x7x2.25 m. Volume - 63 cubic meters; surface area - 105.5 squares. For 1 cube – 105.5/70 = 1.67 squares, consider more than twice the heat loss area. If, say, according to calculations, the stove for a home is 10 kW, then per unit volume there is 10/600 = 0.017 kW. For a garage, then you need 0.037 kW for 1 cubic meter, and 0.034x63 = 2.33 kW for the entire volume. If we take the temperature in the garage to be 16 degrees (for work) or even 8 degrees (the minimum parking temperature for the car), then the heating power drops slightly, to 1.8 and 1.2 kW, respectively.

How to heat a garage?

So, we already see that to heat a garage you need an economical stove: the specific fuel consumption per 1 cubic meter of room is more than twice as high. The second important point is that the stove must warm up the working volume of the room (“working volume” is not said in vain, see below) as quickly as possible, so as not to delay the visit of the private owner or to bring the team into a state of proper performance before they have thoughts about “ fuel,” which is poured not into the tank, but inside itself. If the private garage is cold, then the stove should also quickly burn out and cool down. It’s not so much efficiency that matters here, but fire safety.

Note: For this reason alone, the use of wood-burning stoves for heating garages is limited. The fastest conventional one warms up in 15-20 minutes, but in the garage it can take only half an hour. An exception is long-burning stoves for constantly heated garages, see below.

Finally, there are no garages on a basement with an underground floor, and a solid one with 2-brick walls and external insulation is not affordable for everyone, so, by the way, the heat output of the furnace required for a garage needs to be at least doubled against the rough calculation above. But is it even possible to heat a garage without spending “another half-dollar” of what goes into the house?

Warm hat

The first method is a cap of heated air inside the room, not touching or touching the very edges of the walls and ceiling. The floor, if the garage is not on permafrost, will not get as cold in the most severe frost as thin metal walls and a roof without an attic. You can create such a hat so-called. naturally limited convection.

What kind of animal is this? Have you ever seen a mass, albeit small, of high-energy fuel burst into flames in cold weather? Then the column of smoke most likely formed a mushroom cloud.

This happens because the heated air, cooling rather quickly, loses its kinetic energy and cannot push the dense cold air to rise higher. After all, it weighs a lot and has inertia that needs to be overcome. The heated air then has to expand downwards and to the sides, because the surroundings of the hot air column have already warmed up a little and have become less dense. The characteristic “anvils” of thunder-cumulus clouds and the cloud of a nuclear explosion have exactly the same nature, but there the instantaneous energy release is so great that a mushroom is bound to form. Sometimes there are even two on one pillar, as was the case in Hiroshima.

That is, to effectively, economically and quickly warm up a garage of any type, you need a relatively low-power oven that creates a fairly fast, but not very dense convective flow. An invisible warm “mushroom”, spinning under the ceiling, will settle down, incl. and into the pit, and will only touch the walls from below. If they are covered with snow on the outside, then 2/3-3/4 of the possible heat loss through them will fall on the upper part, which the “mushroom” cannot reach. And if there is no temperature difference, there is no heat loss. Or they are 5-10 times less than if the garage was heated at home.

Note: Similar to this, but in reverse, the principle of creating a “cool cap” is used in mobile air conditioners.

Thermal radiation

For instant short-term heating of the work area or, if the garage is properly insulated (see below), its entirety, you can use thermal (infrared, IR) radiation from special heating devices; more about them below. But if the garage is metal or brick with half-brick walls, they will be of little use: both metal and brick absorb IR quite well. Through a metal wall that conducts heat well, it will very quickly pass outside, and there it will be carried away by convection. A brick that conducts heat poorly, on the contrary, will accumulate it within itself. It will start giving back when you may need to leave the garage. And he will give back no more than half of what he receives, because... what has been accumulated will go at least equally inward and outward. In reality, it’s more outward, because the temperature gradient is directed there.

About insulating garages

It is already clear that before making a stove, it is advisable to insulate the garage. But just like a house, from the outside it will be expensive. It may be completely impossible if the garage is in a common row close to the neighbors. Insulating from the inside is generally bad: the dew point will inevitably fall into the gap between the insulation and the wall, condensation will form there, and the structure will become unusable in a few years.

Nevertheless, under heating with a warm hat or infrared, you can insulate yourself from the inside. To do this, the walls are sheathed with thin, non-flammable and asbestos-free materials that conduct heat poorly, for example. flat ondulin. You can also use self-extinguishing wood - fiberboard, chipboard with a thickness of 4-6 mm. But plastics are not self-extinguishing; if they catch fire, they will release a huge volume of toxic gases!

The sheathing is done at a distance of 20-50 mm from the wall. In a metal garage, it is convenient to attach its sheets to the frame, placing washers so that there are no completely closed cavities. They also retreat from the floor by 50-70 mm. Before covering, metal walls are primed and painted in 2 layers. It is advisable to apply a layer of vermiculite plaster to the brick.

With this method of insulation, condensation under the skin will evaporate without causing harm. All of these materials reflect IR well, and the air cap will simply not be allowed to approach the wall. For permanently inhabited premises, ventilated insulation from the inside is not suitable; humidity without heating will jump above the maximum permissible according to sanitary standards!

About brick garage ovens

The second conclusion from the above is Not suitable for heating a garage:

The heat output of brick kilns is about 0.5 kW per 1 sq. m of their surface. If you calculate what size stove is needed in the garage, it turns out that only it will stand there, and the car will have to be left outside.
For a long life, a brick oven also needs comfort: an even microclimate in the room and humidity within sanitary standards. In the garage, the clay masonry mortar will soon become limp and the stove will “float”: the clay mortar does not set like cement, but dries out, and unfired clay is hygroscopic.
Convection from a brick oven is quite sluggish. There is no question of any warm hat; the heated air will move towards the walls and cool, descending along them, before it heats anything.
The brick oven takes a long time, 1-1.5 hours, to warm up. A private owner will have to heat it ahead of time (what if you need to go into the garage suddenly?), but in a production garage, don’t expect labor productivity at the beginning of the shift. And then, most likely, too. Paying someone extra for the duties of a stoker is an extra expense that can be avoided if the stove heats up quickly.

However, a brick is needed to fully heat a garage. As an additional heat accumulator, which will be discussed below.

Choosing a garage stove

At home

Heavy flammable liquids (waste, dark heating oil, shale oil, rapeseed oil, paint and varnish waste - linseed, hemp, cotton oil sludge) are either found on the farm or are on sale. Moreover, the price of 1 gigacalorie contained in them turns out to be lower than gas, not to mention flammable liquids. You just need to burn them completely, turning them into either a warm hat or IR. Long-burning oil furnaces of various types successfully cope with this.

The general diagram of their device is shown in Fig. The heat of combustion of the fuel is used in several stages, due to which the oil decomposes itself by pyrolysis in the gasifier (mixing zone + pyrolysis zone) into light, completely combustible components. Air flows from the side through holes in the column without pressurization as needed. An indispensable accessory of such a furnace is a two-section afterburner, or afterburner, at the top in Fig. Two stages of afterburning are necessary because during the combustion of pyrolysis gases a high temperature develops, which results in the formation of nitrogen oxides. They need to be kept in a zone with a temperature of at least 400 degrees, then they will disintegrate and release additional energy.

Very economical: at a power of 8-10 kW, fuel consumption is 1.5-2 l/h. They flare up almost instantly, produce a powerful stream of infrared, and if you surround the stove with a galvanized screen, the convective stream will create a warm blanket in any private garage. If you take only the fuel tank - the evaporator - from the stove itself, and the gasifier with the combustion chamber is made curved, then as an afterburner you can use a two-chamber potbelly stove (in the center and on the right in the figure below), which will be discussed below. The result is a universal stove: firewood, coal, mining. By changing the air supply to the fuel tank, you can regulate the power of the furnace within a fairly wide range.

A lot of furnace designs have been developed by amateurs; they are made to order by individual craftsmen, small firms and even some large enterprises. Price – from $40-50. There is only one drawback, but a very serious one: an oil-pyrolysis furnace is fire and explosive. An open flame shoots out from the openings of the combustion zone, and the temperature of a large part of the surface of the furnace is much higher than the flash point of flammable liquid vapors. If you spill gasoline near the stove, its vapor will be drawn into the gasifier, ignite, the pressure in it will increase abruptly, and boiling burning oil will be ejected from the fuel tank. On already spilled flammable liquid.

Therefore, it is useless to apply to firefighters for permission to operate the furnace during mining; it is prohibited. Installation in private garages is not prohibited, but use is at your own peril and risk.

In production

Industrial garages are most often large and tall, electrified, and have brick or concrete walls. In addition, production costs include some diesel fuel consumption for heating. In such conditions, for general heating, the most economical heat source, and instantaneous, is liquid fuel heat guns, see Fig. below. They run on diesel fuel; There are also multi-fuel models. The efficiency of heat guns is 100%. From the control panel, you can set a heating program according to the season and room parameters.

Note 3: we do not consider electric and chemical catalytic heat guns; They are used in the absence of liquid fuel and heating with them is very expensive.

On the left is a diagram of the direct heating heat gun design. In it, exhaust gases exit in a common flow with warm air. Although fuel is consumed literally drop by drop, direct heating heat guns can only be used in the open air for external heating of uninhabited objects, incl. soil.

In indirect heating heat guns (in the center and on the right), the design of the gas-air heat exchanger is more complex and ensures complete separation of the heated air and exhaust gases; the latter are removed into the chimney. There is no need for natural draft for the chimney; the pressure in it is created by a pressurization fan, so any metal corrugated pipe, pushed out any way you like, will fit into the chimney. But the pressure in the chimney of a heat gun is higher than atmospheric pressure (in a chimney with natural draft it is lower), so cracks and cracks in it are unacceptable; exhaust gases will immediately flow through them into the room.

Can I take a heat gun home?

Many motorists, seduced by high efficiency, heat output and instant readiness for action, shell out for a heat gun for the garage, especially since there are low-power models on sale. And then on the forums they write something like: “I bought a heat gun, but it’s a waste of diesel fuel. How does she heat the workshop at work? I’ll make a stove.”

The author came to the correct conclusion. The fact is that the kinetic energy of the air jet from a heat gun is too great for a private garage. Before it has time to form a warm mushroom, it will hit the wall or ceiling, spread over them and get cold in vain. So it comes out - 800 cubic meters heats perfectly, but 80 cannot.

It is impossible to make a liquid fuel heat gun weaker. The injector nozzle will have to be made so narrow that stable combustion will not work even with perfectly filtered and dehydrated fuel due to its own viscosity, capillary phenomena and the deposition of bitumen microparticles. All in all, For heating a small private garage, a heat gun is not an option.

Here and there

For local heating of limited work areas in industrial premises and small private garages, a diesel infrared stove is more suitable, see fig. It is based on a drip evaporative burner that runs on any heavy liquid fuel, from kerosene and diesel fuel to oil sludge and edible vegetable oils. Complete combustion and almost 100% efficiency are ensured by supercharging from a microfan to an afterburner, also known as an IR emitter. It is most often surrounded by a reflector, but for long-term heating of your garage, a circular radiation oven is better suited. Provided that the garage is insulated under IR heating, as described above.

In industrial premises with ceilings of 3.5 m high and forced supply and exhaust ventilation providing at least 2 air changes per hour, diesel infrared stoves can be operated without a chimney. The norm, as a rule, is no more than one per 200 square meters. m of total area. More precisely, it is specified in the specification for the stove and in the data sheet of the room. For a private garage, the stove will have to be equipped with a simple chimney, the same as for a heat gun.

If it is not possible to arrange a chimney, then a gas catalytic infrared furnace turns out to be preferable (see figure on the right); these can be used without special gas removal measures even in residential premises. The efficiency is also almost 100%. However, both diesel and gas radiant stoves, in addition to the need to prepare the room for IR heating, have another significant drawback: the temperature of the radiating surface exceeds the flash point of automotive fuel vapor.

If the car is in a garage with a diesel engine, then the danger is small: for diesel vapor to flare up, its density is necessary, which can only be achieved by increasing the pressure to several ati. But gasoline vapors can create the density necessary for a flash already at atmospheric pressure. So It is not advisable to heat a garage with a gasoline car with a diesel or gas stove. For gas, in addition, a separate cylinder is required, which costs money. It is unrealistic to extend a pipeline or hose from the kitchen to the garage in the cold; gas condensate will settle in it and block the lumen of the tube.

Let's take on homemade products

Well, we have to conclude that for heating your own garage, it is more suitable for solid fuel with a natural draft chimney. It will not heat up instantly, but you can achieve complete isolation of the interior of the garage from flames. Natural draft in the chimney means that from the mouth of the firebox to the upper edge of the chimney the pressure will be less than atmospheric pressure and the reverse emission of flame in normal combustion mode is excluded, which is important for fire safety.

And from the point of view of economics, it is important that the specific energy release of firewood, coal or briquettes exactly corresponds to what is necessary to impart the kinetic energy to the convective jet required to create a warm cap. A formal loss in efficiency (60-85% for solid fuel stoves) actually results in saving money on heating by reducing heat loss.

And one more significant point: most designs of solid fuel stoves allow you to install a hob on them. We are talking not only and not so much about a kettle or a saucepan for your own consumption. Have you ever worked with protective mastics or repair compounds? On the packaging, the permissible temperature range does not start from zero or minus. And if you heat it up to 35-40 degrees, then it will lie better and hold on more firmly. We can list many more auto jobs that require small but fairly uniform heating of the part or its coating. IR cannot be heated this way; the radiation will not reach the part or container from all sides.

About shielding furnaces

In order for the convective air flow to immediately spread into the mushroom and form a cap, it must be weak but fast, i.e. quite concentrated. How to achieve this? More precisely, how can you help a low-power stove prevent the heated air from immediately spreading to the sides?

The technical method for this has been known for a long time; this is shielding the furnace with sheet metal. Its essence is visible from Fig. on the right: in the gap between the screen of the furnace, at least half (actually up to 3/4) of its IR radiation is blocked, which, firstly, ensures the temperature regime of the furnace itself, necessary for efficient combustion of fuel and increasing efficiency. And secondly, which is more important for heating, it strongly heats the air, creating a convection center that is low-power, but well concentrated. Just what you need to spread into the mushroom a little higher.

The basis

Good garage stoves trace their lineage back to. Not surprising, since a large bourgeois apartment in the years of post-revolutionary devastation, according to the conditions required for its heating, is the same as a garage. The first potbelly stoves were simple single-chamber ones, pos. And in Fig. below. To be effective, they need a chimney with a long horizontal bend - a hog. The hog is inconvenient in the garage, and it gets red-hot when fired. But already on potbelly stoves at the beginning of the last century, the firing of stoves using the slow burning method was developed.

With slow burning, the fuel burns from the top. Directly under the burning layer, its thermal decomposition into volatile combustible substances develops - pyrolysis. Pyrolysis gases, entering the flame immediately, burn and release additional heat, increasing the efficiency of the furnace.

Since some extended space is needed to afterburn the gases escaping into the chimney, modern potbelly stoves and their descendants are made two-chamber with an afterburner, pos. B in Fig. Secondary air for afterburning can be taken from the general flow into the firebox, through a separate throttle or through the cracks between the burner liners. By adjusting the air supply, you can change the power of the oven. Special types of stoves were developed specifically for long-term burning, see at the end.

We will talk about the design of a homemade garage stove next, and from ready-made purchased small garages, it is better to heat it with mini-descendants: yacht-boat galley stoves (on the left in the figure) or long-burning tourist camp stoves, on the right there. The fireplace will cost a little more (about $2-5), but it will create better convection and is more thought out from the point of view of fire safety. In general, according to the requirements for a heating and cooking stove, the cabin of a cruising sailing yacht is closer to the garage than a tent.

The fireplace is suitable for short-term heating: it heats up to rated power in 3-4 minutes, but it needs to be heated. Warming up of the garage with a camp stove begins to be felt after 5-10 minutes, depending on the weather, but after kindling it gives off heat unattended for 3-6 hours.

A direct descendant of the potbelly stove with afterburning is the also known or simply buller. In relation to a garage, it should be called a convector oven. The buller circuit is shown on the left in Fig. In fact, the designers made a convection screen in the form of 2 batteries of air duct pipes and combined it into one with the furnace body. Buller efficiency is up to 75%; Buleryan stoves are produced with power from 2 to 200 kW. The price of low-power ones is from $30. In the Russian Federation, bullers are mass-produced under the brands “Breneran” (second from left), “Alaska”, “Siberia”, etc.

For a garage, the so-called. tent half-buller, third from left pos. Battery nozzles pointing straight up make it easier for the air stream to spread into the mushroom, and the hob will also come in handy. Other types of heater furnaces are also produced on the buller principle (on the right in the figure): “Professor Butakov”, “Fire-battery”, etc. Thanks to the use of modern materials and computer technologies for design, their efficiency exceeds 85%, but they are several times more expensive than a simple buller of the same power.

How to cheat a buller?

The Buleryan stove can be called ideal for heating a garage: heat transfer begins 3-5 minutes after kindling, it can be heated in flame mode for a short time, and in long-burning mode one load of fuel lasts for 6-8 hours. Without a significant deterioration in efficiency, the buller can be heated, unlike special long-burning stoves, with rather damp wood.

However, the buller has a significant drawback: it is an exclusively wood-burning stove. It was developed for the needs of Canadian lumberjacks, and there was simply no question of any other fuel. All attempts to adapt buleryan to coal, peat, etc. have not yet yielded successful results.

If we are talking about temporary heating for work in the garage, then the buller can be deceived by installing a heat accumulator made of bricks in it. More precisely, from broken fireclay bricks of medium size, from a matchbox to a cigarette pack. Ordinary brick will not work; its thermal conductivity and heat capacity are too low.

The chamotte waste is placed loosely in the firebox so that there are enough air passages in the brick mass. Then the heat accumulator is heated with a blowtorch, gas or fuel-air burner. When the fireclay heats up to red-orange, this is about 5 minutes, during which the room has already warmed up, the burner is removed, the firebox door, the power control air throttle and the chimney damper are completely closed. Heat transfer to the room will continue for another 1-4 hours, depending on the power of the stove, the type of garage and the weather. Of course, no supervision is needed.

What's better?

But what is the best stove for a garage? Buleryan? If the stove is purchased, then yes. The price of the buller is low, it heats well, it requires little fuel, just like it was designed for a garage. But if you make a garage stove yourself, then considerable difficulties arise, see next. section In this case, it would be better to opt for a potbelly stove adapted for the garage, see ibid. It’s quite simple to make, as long as there’s welding. For a short period of time, using wood or coal, it heats no worse than a buller, and for long-term heating, the potbelly stove can be started during mining. What the buller, by the way, does not allow: due to the very intensive extraction of heat into the convector, it almost does not burn out as an afterburner, it only becomes overgrown with soot from the inside. Here is a stubborn stove, it doesn’t eat anything except firewood.

Design examples

As an example to the above, here in Fig. – drawings of the Buleryan stove for thermal power up to 6-13 kW. The total number of pipes in the batteries can be reduced to 6-7, then the length of the furnace will be reduced accordingly. It is also quite possible to do without a heat-resistant glass inspection insert in the door; the stove ignites absolutely reliably.

But turned parts, bending pipes according to a template and shaped blanks made of 4 mm steel are absolutely necessary. That is, only a fairly experienced craftsman who has the opportunity to use at least the smallest machine park should take on the production of the buller himself.

Note: More details about making a buller for the garage, the procedure for firing and using the stove can be seen in the videos below.

Video: example of making a buleryan for a garage

Video: operation of the Buleryan stove in the garage

And here in Fig. – a simple potbelly stove for the garage. The efficiency of the furnace is increased due to the afterburner with a double pass. You can do it in the same garage. The plan dimensions are half that of a buller, but the thermal power and convection in flame mode using air-dry wood or coal are almost the same. In the long-term (more precisely, close to long-term) burning mode, the power is approximately half as much and drops to zero within 3-4 hours. It is regulated within small limits by slightly opening the blower door.

Part 1 (body and partitions of the afterburner) are made of 2.5-4 mm steel. Grate 2 – made of steel 4-8 mm thick. Screen 3 – made of tin or thin galvanized. Options for spacers for screen 4 are shown in the inset.

About long-burning stoves

A constantly heated garage with stove heating is, generally speaking, a risky business.. But in some areas, car owners simply have no other choice. In this case, it will help out. In addition to the fact that homemade “long” stoves made from scrap materials provide uniform heat transfer for 12-24 hours, they also work on sawdust, shavings, wood chips, small brushwood, straw, dry leaves, and cardboard and paper waste. The general disadvantages of long-burning stoves are as follows:

Only room-dry fuel is required, i.e. in the garage you will need to allocate space for a woodshed, which also increases the fire danger.
Abundant condensation settles in the chimney (water molecules are formed during the pyrolysis of wood or volatile components of coal), so a chimney elbow with its collection and drain valve is required, which also takes up space for the stove.
It is impossible to extinguish a lit stove; the fuel must completely burn out on its own.
Operating homemade long-burning stoves is not permitted by fire regulations, which will automatically void your garage and car insurance.
If the car is rented or leased (rent with purchase), then the lessor has the right to take it away at any time without returning a penny of payments already received.

Long-burning furnaces are made mainly according to 2 schemes: with closed and open combustion zones. The efficiency of both of them in amateur versions reaches 70%. Furnaces with a closed combustion zone develop greater specific thermal power, but are somewhat more complex in design.

An example of the first is well-known to everyone, see Fig. below. It is very popular because... it can be made from a barrel, etc. Bubafonya without a screen provides a convective flow just sufficient to create a warm cap. However, bubafoni as a stove for a garage has a serious drawback: when blown into the chimney, reverse combustion is possible, during which a flame shoots out of the air duct, which is of no use in a garage.

Among the stoves with an open combustion zone, Slobozhanka is quite popular, see fig. below. It is extremely simple in design and, if you do not remove the lid during combustion, is completely safe. “Slobozhanka” is produced in small batches by some small private enterprises. But it won’t be possible to make it from a cylinder or pipe: the diameter of the oven should be in the range of 500-700 mm. With the same size as the bubafone, the power of the “Slobozhanka” is approximately half as high. To create a warm hat you need a screen.

In conclusion - what if?

Suddenly there is a fire in the garage. The stove is still there. In such a case, it would not be amiss to have 1 or, for guarantee, a pair of smaller automatic non-volatile carbon dioxide fire extinguishers; they are hung on the wall next to the stove. You just need to choose according to the specification so that the volume of gas released is 1.5-2 times the volume of the garage. As a rule, a fire extinguisher with a charge of 5 kg is enough.

If you simply open the valve of the device, nothing will happen: the liquefied carbon dioxide in the cylinder is locked by a convex prestressed bimetallic membrane. If the cylinder or the fire extinguisher head itself heats up above 70 degrees, the membrane will turn out, prick at the tip, rupture and the gas will flow out. With such insurance, you can sleep more or less peacefully even when heating your garage with a long-burning stove.

The easiest and most convenient way to heat a garage in winter is to install some kind of electric heater. Many motorists do this, but then they have to deal with electricity bills that are not comparable with the heat received due to the high tariff. On the other hand, a stove for a garage using wood or exhaust is not as comfortable to use, but it will certainly be cheaper. This material will outline how to save even more and make such a stove yourself.

Wood burning stove

There are very few requirements for such stoves:

so that it generates heat well;
was suitable for burning any wood;
fit on the space allocated for her.

Since simple stoves for a garage do not particularly need aesthetics, home craftsmen usually weld them from whatever comes to hand or is found on scrap metal. So the shape of the body can be arbitrary; if you find a piece of a large pipe, the stove will be round; if you find some sheet metal, let’s make it rectangular. By and large, this does not matter much; the design itself is much more important.

The Internet is full of drawings of different stoves, but they are all derivatives of a traditional metal potbelly stove. The heater body can be oriented in a horizontal or vertical plane; this has almost no effect on operating efficiency. The fact is that a homemade vertical stove for the garage, made with your own hands, takes up less space. While long logs are placed in the horizontal one, it burns longer with one load. Choose which option you like best.

Traditional potbelly stoves do not have a grate; this stove is a hearth stove. The chimney is located in the rear part and is supplied from above, as shown in the drawing:

In a garage where flammable liquids and oils are stored, the absence of an ash pan is not the best option. When cleaning the hearth, hot coals may crumble, making the procedure inconvenient. For this reason, a simple wood-burning stove received grates, an ash pan and a door for cleaning, or even a drawer. As for the pipe, it is boiled in the usual place or on the back wall.

But the improved two-way potbelly stove has a pipe in the front part. The design of the furnace promotes increased heat transfer, since the flue gases inside it make two passes in different directions, intensively exchanging heat with the metal walls.

The last passage of gases ends at the front wall, which is why the pipe is in the front. Such a stove for a garage is very effective; it can be made according to the drawing presented above:

Increasing the exchange surface will further increase heat transfer. Craftsmen solved this issue long ago by welding ribs made of strip steel 4-5 mm thick to the body, as shown in the photo:

Without going into details and description of welding work, we will give some general recommendations:

try to take thicker metal, if possible, then 4-5 mm. Then the wood stove will last longer;
when attaching the chimney from above, it is better to strengthen the wall; this joint burns out most often;
external fins significantly improve heat exchange; they can be welded to any stove;
You can install at least one partition inside, like a two-pass oven;
It is better to make many small holes in the grate than large holes where unburnt coals will spill out.

Waste oil furnace

The simplest garage stove that runs on waste oil is well known to everyone. And, although its drawing is not difficult to find in RuNet, just in case we will present it again:

As you can see, such a heater is simple to manufacture, but there are some nuances during operation. The main enemy of such stoves is water, which, due to various circumstances, gets into the used oil. A very small amount of it causes strong pops in the perforated afterburner (a vertical pipe with holes), which can lead to a fire. It turns out that before use, the fuel must be settled to separate the water.

Important. Any furnace used for combustion, as well as for wood, requires a chimney with good draft for stable operation, so it is recommended to raise it to a height of at least 4 m.

The second drawback of the heater is the pungent odor during the ignition and warm-up stages. Otherwise, the use of the miracle stove, as it is called on specialized forums, does not cause any particular complaints. It warms up quite well. But on the same forums, craftsmen have long proposed a more reliable and efficient design. And not such a fire hazard. The principle by which such an oil stove operates is shown in the figure:

The fuel burns in a metal bowl located at the bottom of a vertical pipe (or gas cylinder). It is fed into the bowl in drops from a dosing device. Thanks to this scheme, if necessary, a liquid fuel stove can also burn diesel fuel; you just need to adjust the air supply and dosage. Some of the oil vapor burns out inside a vertical perforated pipe - an afterburner when secondary air is supplied. The furnace structure is shown in the drawing:

As a housing, you can use a thick-walled steel pipe or a propane cylinder. The range of the remaining metal is indicated in the drawing; we will not list it again. Instead, let’s focus on the method of air supply; it can be of two types:

natural, due to chimney draft;
forced pumping by a fan.

A homemade drip stove made from a pipe can also operate at low draft if there is no way to raise the chimney higher. This is facilitated by installing a fan that forces air inside the afterburner. Then, looking into the operating furnace from above, we can observe the following picture:

The method is considered more effective and quite reliable, tested by more than one garage owner. If desired, such a diesel stove is enclosed in a water jacket, turning into a hot water boiler. This will allow you to install radiator heating in the garage and significantly increase comfort during long stays indoors in winter. The warning for oil heaters is the same as for wood heaters: if there is a high-rise residential building in the immediate vicinity, you will have to return to the idea of heating with electricity.

Self-installation of a stove in a garage must be carried out according to certain rules. Firstly, you need to ensure the operation of the heater, and secondly, take fire safety measures. As for the first point, it concerns the correct installation of the chimney, which must create normal draft. Here are the recommendations:

pipe height - at least 4 m, counting from the grate;
turns - no more than 3, avoid setting knees at 90º, try to use 45 or 30º;
if there is a horizontal section, then its length is no more than 1 m;
It is better to insulate the section of the pipe on the street with basalt wool to prevent the formation of condensation;
Attach the chimney to the wall so that it does not load the body of the stove.

When installing a wood or oil stove yourself, follow fire safety requirements. Here is their list:

Place a sheet of metal on the floors under the stove, protruding 1 m from the side of the door;
combustible wall structures near the stove must be protected with metal or brick screens;
when passing a wooden ceiling through the chimney, ensure a gap of 250 mm between it and the pipe, filling it with basalt fiber;
in order to protect the flue from being blown in by the wind, install a deflector or a special nozzle on it;
Natural supply and exhaust ventilation must function in the garage.

Conclusion

Compared to electric stove heating, garage heating is much more economical, and sometimes even more efficient. But the installation and operation of oil and solid fuel heaters has its own characteristics that must be taken into account. Making stoves with your own hands will not be very difficult for a person who has the necessary skills. As a last resort, you can entrust the production to a familiar craftsman, choosing a suitable design.