I love flower beds, front gardens, gardens in the middle of summer! What doesn’t bloom there - luxurious roses, slender lilies, gladioli, cheerful phlox, graceful carnations, bright eschscholzia, curly nigella... I always admire such diversity, but the tall multi-colored candles of delphiniums are amazing in a special way. They add beauty and height to front gardens and flower beds. Hybrid varieties look especially good - like two-meter giants! So, perennial delphinium - planting and care, photos of these beauties are the subject of our conversation.
Photo of a summer flower garden with delphiniums:
Types of delphiniums
Perennial delphiniums of hybrid varieties can be divided into five types.
New Zealand hybrids, photo 
Photo: King Arthur Each group contains one and a half to two dozen varieties. It is not surprising that it is difficult to choose just one, “your” variety. The names alone are worth it! King Arthur, Black Eyed Angels, Sweethearts, others.
Perennial delphiniums begin to bloom in June. Flowering duration is from 2-3 weeks to one month. Tall candles of inflorescences, consisting of 50-80 flowers, begin to bloom from below.
Delphinium New Zealand giant, photo You can look at delphinium inflorescences for a long time - some varieties have rounded flower petals, others have sharp ones, others have wide ones, and others have curlicues. There are even those that have petals of different shapes in one flower. Some delphinium flowers have “eyes” in the center, others do not.
Considering what was said above, it is very difficult to choose which variety to grow - you want everything at once. But, if you have a small plot, we recommend choosing no more than 2-3 varieties.
Delphinium perennial - growing from seeds
You should not think that delphiniums are easy to grow. Yes, caring for those that have already grown up will not cause any particular difficulties. But when planting, it is necessary to comply with agricultural technology.
You should start by choosing a place to plant perennial delphiniums. They like fertilized, fertile soil; they prefer loamy soil; its acidity should be close to neutral. This means that wood ash at the delphinium planting site is very desirable.
The area where delphiniums will grow should be open and ventilated, but, nevertheless, these tall plants should be protected from strong winds. Perennial delphiniums love the sun, but it is better if they are in at least light shade during the midday heat. Light shade will prevent the flowers from fading in the sun.
There is one secret to growing delphinium from seeds! The brightest colors of the flowers are obtained from the seeds of the first year of collection.
Remember that delphinium seeds lose their viability very quickly, so they must be sown in the fall immediately after ripening (October-November). Seeds are sown in open ground or seed boxes. If you were unable to do this in the fall, then the seeds must be stratified. Sowing of ripened seeds is carried out in the flower garden in rows, in seed boxes - scattered.
There are different timings for sowing seeds in open ground:
- spring - April-May,
- summer - June-July,
- sub-winter - October-November.
Perhaps seed propagation of delphiniums. picking up seeds and sprouts is the most troublesome task. The seeds require stratification, that is, before planting, they must be kept moist for 2 weeks in the refrigerator at a temperature of +3-5°C. Sometimes they already begin to sprout there.
You can sow seeds for seedlings as early as late February-early March. The seedlings need additional lighting. Seedlings must be picked carefully, as they are easy to break - they are very fragile. When planting, deepen the seedlings to the cotyledon leaves.
I think you should only tinker with seeds of rare varieties when there are few seeds. Seeds are used to propagate varieties whose plants have a strongly developed tap root and do not take root well when transplanted. Plants grown from seeds in open ground are distinguished by high winter hardiness, a powerful root system and a highly developed above-ground mass.
And it is better to sow the more common, proven varieties of delphiniums in open ground before winter. In the spring, after the emergence of seedlings, plant them in a permanent place in bunches of 3-4 pieces per hole.
When propagating from seeds, a large amount of planting material is obtained, so it is recommended to carry out two thinnings, leaving the strongest and most beautiful plants. The distance between plants should be 20-30 cm. It is advisable to leave these plants at the planting site until flowering, which occurs four months later.
Reproduction of delphiniums by dividing the bush
Delphiniums also reproduce by dividing the bush, by shoots.
You can plant them in early spring, if you live in the middle zone or even further north, or in the fall, around September in Kuban.
Delphiniums grow over time, so holes for planting shoots or bushes are placed at a distance of 50-60 cm. The size of the holes should be much larger than the shoots themselves (40x40x40 cm). This is necessary in order to fill them with nutritious compost mixed with organic and mineral fertilizers. The proportions are as follows: for 1-2 buckets of compost (rotted humus), 1 tablespoon with a mountain of superphosphate, the same amount of potassium fertilizers, 1 tbsp. l. without a slide of potassium magnesium, a glass of wood ash. It is better not to apply nitrogen fertilizers when planting.
When planting a delphinium bush (shoot), the root collar of the seedling should be deepened, but not more than 2-3 cm.
A very important point in caring for delphiniums is the mandatory thinning of shoots. This is done in the spring after the plant sprouts reach a height of 10 cm.
But there is one interesting feature in thinning. In the second year, in the spring, strong plants are left with 3 stems, and those that are weaker are left with one. And in the following years, large-flowered varieties leave 3-4 shoots. And for varieties with small flowers – 7-10. The remaining stems are cut at the root.
Thinning allows the inflorescences not to become smaller, not to lose their fullness, and to maintain the original brightness of the flowers.
Timely watering is important for blooming delphiniums. Moreover, it is plentiful - at least 2-3 buckets of water are poured under each bush in dry weather. Water at the root; it is undesirable for water to get on the leaves, since delphiniums are easily susceptible to fungal diseases.
The ABC of agricultural technology is loosening the soil after watering or rain.
Delphiniums respond well to feeding with abundant, bright flowering.
Experts advise doing this three times a season. The first feeding - in the spring - with organic matter, the second after 1-1.5 months - with a complete mineral fertilizer such as Kemira Universal. The third time, foliar feeding is carried out during the appearance of buds - sprayed with a solution of superphosphate (50 g per 1 liter of water).
Alas, delphiniums are often affected by powdery mildew and viruses. When you notice a dirty whitish coating on leaves or flowers, it is too late to take any action. Therefore, do not forget to prevent the disease during the budding period by spraying the flowers with any fungicide, for example, the drug HOM, Ridomil or the biological product Fitosporin.
By the way, there are delphiniums that are resistant to these diseases - these are varieties of the New Zealand group. When purchasing seeds, pay attention to which group these flowers belong to. By purchasing certain varieties, you will save time on treating flowers against diseases.
There is one feature of caring for delphiniums - pruning, or rather, the actions of gardeners after it.
Yes, it is recommended to cut off faded flower stalks before winter. The peculiarity is that they need to be cut very close to the ground, and the stumps should be hilled up and covered with soil. The fact is that the stems of these flowers are empty inside. By leaving the cut stems above the soil level, you will allow rainwater to accumulate inside the stumps, and this is a direct threat to the roots - they can rot over the winter. You won't be able to see any shoots in the spring. But don’t forget to clear the mound at the roots of the delphiniums in the spring.
After pruning, you can leave stems 20-25 cm long, but then you should cover the holes in the stem with clay and earth.
Everything that I wrote above about pruning delphiniums applies to varietal species, perennials.
Cute annuals (they are called spurs, sokirs) reproduce by self-seeding and do not require such close attention.
Delphinium annual, photo of flowers Undoubtedly, the delphinium on the site is very beautiful and elegant. But do not forget that this plant is poisonous. Protect your hands from dripping sap when pruning.
In mid-summer, gardens and flower beds bloom with a variety of colors and shades. Tall delphinium stems strewn with small flowers stand out from afar against the background of carnations, salvia, and phlox.
They stand like candles in the middle of a flower bed, attracting attention with their wide color palette.
Types and varieties of delphinium
A beautiful flower - perennial delphinium - can grow up to 2-2.5 meters in height, the inflorescence reaches a meter in length. The variety of varieties is simply amazing - more than 400 varieties of delphinium are found in Europe, Asia, and North America, and more than 100 are known in Russia.
The wide range of colors has made the flowering plant so popular among gardeners and landscape designers - blue, blue shades, lilac, white and pink varieties decorate the flower beds of private gardeners and city parks.
Not all varieties of delphinium are used in landscape design.
The most popular:
Delphinium Leroy is a heat-loving flower with a scent reminiscent of vanilla. It grows up to 1.5 meters and delights those around with snow-white, slightly greenish flowers.
Terry is a blue-violet type of delphinium that blooms from May to August; it can often be found in flower beds.
Rare-colored is a short plant, compared to other varieties, up to 75 cm high, its homeland is the Altai Territory.
Delphinium Bruno - more often found in warm regions - in India, Afghanistan, Tibet. If it is grown in the middle zone, then it must be covered for the winter. The buds look like pansies, they are blue-violet in color.
Blue delphinium is a low-growing variety with blue flowers and a dark core that loves warmth, so it needs to be put in a warm room for the winter. If you grow it from seeds, it will bloom only in the second year.
The original type of delphinium is Lamiaceae. Its flowers are blue-green on one side, and gray-gray on the other.
Belladonna is the only delphinium hybrid that has hanging “panicles” instead of sticking out “candle” inflorescences.
The variety of types and colors of perennial delphinium, as you can see for yourself by looking at the photo, is amazing; it is impossible to stop at just one - experienced flower growers and landscape designers recommend choosing several types for your flower garden.
Planting and caring for delphinium
Perennial delphinium is a soil-demanding crop. Therefore, choose an open, well-ventilated place with fertile, loamy soil for planting. When planting in the fall, add dolomite flour and slaked lime to the soil per 1 square meter. meter - 100 g. You can add peat and manure.
Delphinium loves the sun, but not open sunlight - it is better to plant it in partial shade.
The planting site, as stated, should be ventilated, but not open to all winds - thin hollow stems may break.
Knowing the rules and time of how and when to plant a perennial delphinium, you can get a beautiful flower garden for several years, because it can and is even recommended not to be replanted for 8-10 years: the flower does not like being disturbed often.
Seeds are sown immediately after ripening, in the fall - in October-November, immediately in open ground or in seed boxes. This is a winter planting.
In the spring, sprouts are planted 3-4 per hole, and later thinned out so that the distance between plants is at least 20-30 cm.
If autumn planting was impossible for some reason, you can plant perennial delphinium seeds in the spring, after preliminary stratification - keeping them at low temperatures (3-50C) for 2 weeks.
In this case, the seeds are sown for seedlings in February-March, without deepening them into the ground. As a primer, you can use a universal peat-based primer.
The resulting perennial delphinium seedlings must be plucked carefully so as not to damage the roots and hollow stems.
Caring for delphinium involves abundant watering - 2-3 buckets for each bush if the weather is dry.
Loves plant nutrition. In the spring, organic fertilizers are added to the bushes; after 1.5 months, mineral fertilizers are added, for example Kemiru Universal.
When the buds appear, you need to spray the bushes with a superphosphate solution. The plant will bloom more actively if you water it from time to time with a solution of boric acid (2 g per bucket of water).
To prevent diseases of powdery mildew, fungi, and viruses during the period when buds appear, spray the bushes with fungicides.
Thinning and pruning
After the flowers fall, the perennial delphinium is prepared for winter. All shoots are cut very low from the ground, the “stumps” are hilled up and covered with earth so that water does not get into the hollow stems.
In the second year of flowering, the delphinium bush produces new shoots, and they must be removed, otherwise the flowering will not be dense. Cut off the weaker stems, leaving 20-25 cm. It is recommended to leave no more than 5 shoots on the bush.
Delphinium propagation
We have already talked about growing from seeds. In addition, delphinium can be propagated by division and cuttings.
When dividing the bush in mid-April. You need to cut off the shoots with a very sharp tool so as not to damage them. They are planted in holes 40*40 cm at a distance of half a meter from each other.
Before planting, add compost (1-2 buckets), superphosphate, potash fertilizers (1 tablespoon each), and wood ash (1 cup) to the hole. The root collar is buried 2-3 cm.
Cuttings are carried out from young plants - shoots of 5-8 cm are taken, cut off at the very rhizome, and treated with Kornevin.
Before rooting, cuttings should be kept warm, providing partial shade and ventilation. After 2 weeks, complex feeding is carried out, and by the end of summer the cuttings take root perfectly.
Perennial delphinium flowers are often used in landscape designs - they bloom when irises and peonies have bloomed, and attract attention with lush multi-colored caps.
They are not capricious to their neighbors, so they are planted together with other flowers - daisies, astilbe, creating multi-colored compositions in parks and gardens.
Photo of perennial delphinium
It is almost impossible to pass indifferently past garden plots where beautiful delphiniums grow. I want to stop and admire these spectacular, huge floral candles.
Delphinium captivates us with its regal appearance, the splendor of flowers of various shapes and colors.
A common inhabitant of most gardens, the delphinium does not resemble the buttercup in appearance of its flowers. However, coming from distant countries: China, Asia and the tropical zone of Africa, it is a member of the buttercup family.
The plant is ancient, it was mentioned at the beginning of our era: historical evidence has been preserved: Dioscorides, the father of the science of botany, a doctor, called it that.
Why delphinium - there are many versions. This indicates the similarity of the shape of the flower with the silhouette of a dolphin. Then the Greek goddess Delphine is mentioned (the doctor was an ancient Greek). The flower also grew in the city of Delphi, which could also influence its name.
There are legends about the origin of delphinium. The most romantic legend, of course, is about love.
The young man lost his beloved, she passed away. He sculpted a statue - exactly the same as his favorite one - and managed to bring it to life. The angry gods did not forgive an ordinary mortal for encroaching on divine activity; they turned the lover into a dolphin.
The lovers did not have the opportunity to meet, but they saw each other from afar: the dolphin swam to the shore, where the sad girl he created was waiting for him.
The dolphin, swimming to the shore once again, left a beautiful blue flower - delphinium - at her feet.
Our people called it the spur plant, for the structure of the flower with a spur-like outgrowth. Our scientists gave the spur in the taxonomy the name: larkspur.
Biological description of delphinium
Garden delphinium is a perennial. Wild larkspur can be found as a perennial or as an annual plant.
The annual is usually considered a weed on grain crops and likes to show off against their background.
Annuals rarely appear in gardens; only two species are recognized by gardeners: Ajaxa (garden) and field. Although in nature there are about fifty of them.
Perennials are registered in the flower beds thoroughly in all their diversity.
Like all buttercups, delphinium is poisonous, you need to remember this. Children are drawn to him.
But the tall herbaceous plant attracts every eye - with the power of its beauty and variety of colors.
All parts are poisonous, including nectar. Some of the bees, seduced by the attractiveness of the flowers, die.
Survivors produce “drunk” honey, which is dangerous to health. The poison contained in delphinium affects three vectors: the heart, the gastrointestinal tract, and the nervous system. This list makes it clear how dangerous it is.
In wild representatives the inflorescence is shorter and paniculate. It bears a maximum of one and a half dozen flowers.
The varietal delphinium has a pyramidal inflorescence of impressive length, containing up to 80 flowers.
The root system is tuberous, called the stem root. The leaves are deeply dissected and palmate.
The delphinium flower has a spur (hence the spur). There are five sepals, the inflorescence is paniculate. It is well pollinated by bumblebees, and in the tropics hummingbirds are interested in it, and they also pollinate delphinium.
The genus includes almost 4 hundred species - perennials and annuals. There is a wide range of species in terms of height. It can be short, 10 cm, but there are species that are three meters tall.
Their habitats are different: low in meadows, high in forests. Gardeners grow medium-sized plants - the golden mean of larkspur - garden delphinium.
Connoisseurs can already determine by the color of the seedlings how the flower will be colored. If the leaf of the seedlings is green, the flower will be light: blue, white, light purple.
But when the seedlings are dark-leaved (brown, red), expect a richly dark color of the flowers.
Very small delphinium seeds are found in leaflet fruits.
It is interesting that in nature or during normal storage they are viable for three to four years. And in the refrigerator they do not lose germination for many years; there is even an opinion that they are germinated then “for an unlimited time.”
Delphinium groups
With all the variety of delphinium varieties, taxonomy has brought them into three groups:
- Pacific hybrids are spectacular and majestic;
- Belladonna - less tall, but no less charming;
- Elatum – these delphiniums also look great.
Pacific hybrids. The flowers of this group are unlikely to leave anyone indifferent.
Once you look at the magnificence of the huge inflorescences, you immediately want to place something like this in your garden. However, it is not advisable to rush. No doubt - they are good.
But given their gigantic size, their endurance is far from equal to their size. A perennial rarely lives for many years. If you're lucky, you'll make it to three.
More often than not, the first winter destroys it. And resistance to disease is very weak. The beauty is, of course, undeniable.
But it is better to use it planningly - as an annual plant. Then it will be possible to avoid disappointment if he turns out to be this way due to the natural weakness of the group.
You can plant such hybrids in flowerpots, placing them where early perennials have already faded and the places are empty.
It's an interesting rational win-win.
Belladonna. Representatives of the group are “muslin young ladies.” They are graceful and small. The flowers are small.
They produce many shoots on each bush, but these shoots are thin. The inflorescences are paniculate, loose, rather loose.
Single plantings of plants from the Belladonna group will not create a beautiful picture. They need to be arranged in groups, then the composition can be interesting.
Flowering is early - they do not need to spend so much time and effort on forming a bush, because it is not tall. Therefore, while other hybrids of the other two groups are gaining mass, the delphiniums of the Belladonna group are already blooming.
The varieties of this group are hard nuts. They are rightly called perennials - they live a long time. And they are not susceptible to diseases, they are resistant, they resist.
Delphiniums of the Belladonna group bloom in waves. They begin to “boil” with color early, in June.
Then the flowering gradually subsides, but in August a second wave breaks out - the delphinium flowerbeds are covered with repeated flowering.
This is a very nice valuable quality.
The group is close to nature, the color of the inflorescences is natural - blue, blue tones. There are white ones.
The flowers are semi-double or simple, similar to wildflowers. A garden with such natural plants looks environmentally friendly and natural.
The flowers of the group harmoniously complement many floral arrangements.
Also noteworthy is its unpretentiousness and ease of care for the grower. Delphiniums of the Belladonna group are almost not affected by snails - the scourge of other groups.
They are not afraid of wind and rain - the inflorescences are loose, flexible and do not break in bad weather. They are not afraid of pruning, they even love it.
When the first wave of flowering has passed, you can safely prune the plants. They will immediately begin to grow, send out new shoots and flower stalks, and bloom a second time.
Elatum. Also a hybrid group. But it is characterized by tall, large-flowered inflorescences in a rich palette of colors.
There are both soft white and dark purple. And between these extremes are all shades of blue and pink.
The height of the plant is two meters. These can be planted individually or in groups.
They will look impressive in any case. They are also resistant to “plant troubles” in comparison with the Pacific group.
Perennials. True, they are not as unpretentious as the previous group (Belladonna); you will have to look after them.
If you don’t take care of the support, the wind will break the tall, heavy inflorescences. They love to feast on individuals of the slug group and do not pass by snails. We must protect.
To form such a giant bush, delphiniums of this group “want” loose, fertile soil. Will need to be taken care of.
But this effort, of course, will be paid off by the joy of contemplating the beauty of flowers.
Simple and hybrid varieties of delphiniums
Breeders could not help but notice the wonderful flower. And everything that is included in the selection results in new interesting results.
Among the new plants created as a result, there are many stunningly beautiful hybrids.
There are also simple, non-hybrid varieties, formed by the selection method, where the best, original delphinium varieties are used.
Varieties within groups are usually obtained by crossing different species within the group.
Belladonna. Here scientists worked with the species: Lamiaceae and Grandiflora. Many varieties have been created.
The most popular:
- Casa Blanca: spectacular one and a half meter plants. Snow-white flowers with a yellow central spot.
- Berghimmel. The name has a German motif, and for good reason. The variety was obtained by the German breeder Karl Förster back in pre-war times. The diameter of simple blue flowers is 5 cm. They are collected in a panicle of two dozen pieces, notable for their white eye. The panicle rises at a height of 2 m.
- Wolkerfrieden. Another German achievement. The flowers are of an extraordinary heavenly color and very beautiful.
- Merheim. Old Dutch variety. The height is over a meter. The panicle contains up to 20 white simple five-centimeter flowers.
- Volkerfrieden. This German variety has simple blue flowers that can have different eye colors. Either white or black. The corolla is 5 cm in diameter, height – one and a half meters.
Marfin hybrids. Domestic varieties. They are named after the place of creation - the village of Marfino near Moscow.
The varieties are adapted to the conditions of the country and are able to compete with the Pacific group of varieties in terms of decorativeness.
The bushes are dense, up to two meters, the stems are of increased strength. Meter-long pyramidal inflorescences contain up to hundreds of graceful flowers measuring 7 cm in diameter.
Rare quality: Marfin hybrids transmit their characteristics through seeds. The percentage of transmission reaches 90 - an unprecedented figure; usually hybrids “disintegrate” in the offspring and do not inherit the characteristics of the parent.
Valuable domestic varieties:
- Daughter of winter. Semi-double “black-eyed” white flowers on a pyramidal 80-centimeter inflorescence crowned with a one and a half meter or more stem. There are up to 75 flowers, the diameter of an individual is 7 cm.
- Spring Snow. The characteristics of the variety are similar to the previous one. The difference is the height is 180 cm, there are more flowers - 80, and their color is not just white, but smoky, slightly shaded with a soft purple tone. And their diameter is slightly smaller - 6 cm.
- Summer morning. 160 cm. Eighty-centimeter pyramidal inflorescence with 90 semi-double lilac-pink flowers located on it. When opened, the diameter is six centimeters. The color of the flower's eye is white and pronounced.
- Blue Lace. Everything is the same as for the variety previously described - “Spring Snow”, the parameters are the same. Only the color is different - dark blue. And the peephole is not dark - white.
- Pledge of Youth. This one is like “Summer Morning”, only there are fewer flowers – 70 and the eye is black.
- Pink Sunset. They will repeat the characteristics of “Summer Morning”, it is distinguished by a black eye and lilac-pink color.
Pacific hybrids. The varieties of the group are also characterized by the transmission of parental qualities through seeds.
Beautiful, interesting, these hybrids are short-lived. But they retain their attractiveness as an annual or two-year crop. Attractive with beauty.
There are varieties that are relatively resistant:
- Blue Jay. 170 cm, semi-double dark blue flowers, 5 cm in diameter, on a fairly dense inflorescence in the form of a cone (it is slightly longer than half a meter).
- Guinever. A two-meter bush with semi-double lilac-pink flowers on a dense cone-shaped inflorescence with large, showy flowers. Their diameter is 7 cm, the central eye of the flower is white.
- King Arthur. 180 cm. The flowers are smaller, 4.5 cm, but they look interesting. They are purple, including the anthers. And the peephole is white. It's elegant.
Elatum. Many beautiful varieties. Tall, large-flowered, with a range of shades, they are loved by gardeners.
Common:
- Glastam. Blue, “dark-eyed” variety.
- Amethyst. Blue with amethyst tint.
Growing seedlings
Seed preparation. The seeds of larkspur are small, but the shell is enviably durable. Sometimes this interferes with normal germination.
In nature, everything is provided for, but in gardening and floriculture we will have to provide for it ourselves.
Not everyone loves delphinium; growing it will require knowledge of the characteristics of the flower.
After disinfecting the seeds with a solution of potassium permanganate or a suitable fungicide, they must be rinsed.
Then we try to work for nature. We will carry out stratification (exposure at low temperatures) of the seeds.
In an apartment, this means aging soaked seeds in the refrigerator. It is convenient to wrap them in a wet cloth, place this cloth in a plastic bag, and then put it in the refrigerator.
The seeds will end up in conditions similar to natural ones. Damp, cold. This is how preparations for spring and sowing begin.
There is no need to over-moisten the seeds; they will not evaporate the moisture in the bag, they will simply harden by the time of sowing.
Delphinium from seeds is common, but not easy.
Delphinium is cold-resistant, and in a week or a week and a half it will sprout roots even in the cold. Check, don't miss this moment.
Sowing. Having dried the seeds until they flow, we proceed to sowing.
Considering the very miniature size of the seeds, you can pre-mix them with sand or crushed chalk: it will be easier to sow the delphinium and distribute the tiny seeds over the surface of the substrate.
Don’t be lazy in preparing the soil: if you give the seeds a start with good nutrition, a loose structure, and optimal moisture, you yourself will be happy with the results.
Mix soil (preferably forest soil), humus, sand - equally. The mixture will have good properties.
Fill the prepared containers with it, having previously poured a drainage layer from below. For drainage, available waste materials are suitable - remnants of crushed stone, broken bricks and the like.
Be sure to make or check for holes in the bottom of the planting container. Place it on a pallet.
Spill (water) the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate. This will protect future plants from infection by mycelium of pathogenic flora.
After a few hours you can sow. Try to sow evenly. On top is a thin (3 mm) layer of earth.
It is advisable to press down (without unnecessary zeal) the soil on top with a flat object. This is to ensure tight “seed-soil” contact, uniformity of future seedlings, and protection from washout by irrigation.
It is better to moisten the crops with a spray bottle.
Delphinium in the germination stage needs darkness. It should be covered, protected from light, but placed in a cool place. You can - on the window.
Monitor the temperature: if it exceeds 20°, the sprouted roots die.
Obtaining seedlings. Delphinium is not an indoor sissy, it is extreme at the call of nature.
Creating stress similar to natural ones, for example, temperature fluctuations, encourages it to start growing faster.
It is not difficult to arrange a temperature swing for him. For three days in the coolness of the room, the crops have not yet figured out what’s next.
Let them feel the breath of cold for two weeks. Even slight frosts of larkspur are not terrible.
Then take them home or remove these containers from the refrigerator. The temperature difference back and forth is a good stimulus for germination. The germination rate itself will increase noticeably.
Keep an eye out: in a week the seedlings may hatch. The cover is removed: now we need light. Coolness remains relevant - place the seedlings closer to the window.
Picking. Admission is mandatory, otherwise the plants will prevent the neighboring ones from developing normally, and they themselves will remain frail.
Picking begins when the seedlings shoot out the first leaf. Delphinium, whose seedlings are tender and fragile in the first stages, is already ready for this procedure.
Picking is normal. Using a spatula, or perhaps an ice cream stick, carefully pry the plant from below and remove it carefully, preserving the roots and a lump of soil.
Cups with a nutrient mixture of a composition similar to the primary medium should be ready.
Place the root into a hole the size of the root with a lump, sprinkle with soil, and lightly knead.
Afterwards - careful moderate watering. If necessary, add soil.
Feeding. If fertilizers are applied during planting, the seedlings do not need to be fed. When the soil is not very nutritious, and when planting it was not fed, it is advisable to fill this gap later.
One or two feedings per month can please the seedlings.
All fertilizers are acceptable at this stage: basic ones - N, P, K and a set of microelements.
After dissolving according to the instructions, apply fertilizing with watering. Take care of the leaves, do not burn them with the solution, apply them under the roots.
Hardening. In the three-leaf phase, start hardening. First, a few hours outside, at a low temperature.
After a week, leave the seedlings overnight. They will noticeably turn green, become stronger, and stop stretching.
After half a month, the seedlings, hardened and grown, strong, are ready for soil conditions. Can be planted.
Choosing a landing site
In order for the delphinium to please with its flowering and condition, the planting must be thoughtful. The place is chosen so that the plant is as comfortable as possible.
The flower is tall, which means we are looking for an area protected from the winds so that the stems do not break.
But delphinium is light-loving, so we give it a bright place.
Of course, the spur will withstand a whole day in the sun. But its beauty can fade: on hot days, the midday sun will “cook” the flowers and their color will fade.
The beauty must be protected, it is worth observing which place on the site is well lit, but at noon it should be where the shadow (preferably partial shade) from the garden trees should fall.
It will be easier for the flower, and happier for the gardener.
Places with stagnant water and high acidity are not suitable for delphinium.
Choose structural, non-waterlogged neutral nutrient soils; you will get the best results with them.
Disembarkation time
They try to sow any seedling crop at a time that allows the seedlings to grow just in time for planting in the ground.
They are guided by the plant’s requirements for heat and the climate characteristics of the region.
Delphinium is not afraid of cold weather, so it is not too late to plant it. In the South - in April, in most colder regions - in May.
The plant takes root quickly if it is grown strong, healthy, and tolerates returning cold without problems.
Soil preparation
We will plant a flower of gigantic (in the future) sizes. To form the mass of the bush, it will need a decent amount of nutrients.
Depending on their initial content in the soil, we plan the needs.
Holes for bushes should be dug around the perimeter, square, and deep into the same size. The side of the dug cube is 40 cm, the root will grow powerful.
The hole is filled with humus. It provides nutrients in the most easily digestible form - organic.
Organic matter contains a lot of nitrogen, which is good for gaining green mass.
Phosphorus fertilizers and potassium can be added in mineral form.
Planting delphinium
If the roots of the seedlings in the glasses have grown so much that they are visible through the glasses, there are usually no problems with survival.
Carefully turning the glass over, take out the contents - the roots along with the soil, and place this lump in the prepared hole.
It’s okay that the plant is still small, but the hole is rather big. The delphinium will grow and the roots will spread throughout the nutrient substrate of the pit.
You will get a healthy, strong and beautiful vigorous plant.
After planting the plant, knead the soil and water the hole. Afterwards, if the soil has settled, sprinkle dry soil on top, at the same time it will work as mulch.
You can use sand for dusting - in a thin layer.
Planting care
As you noticed: the seedlings began to grow, there was no need for shading. Yes, and you can water less often.
Care comes down to maintaining loose soil and freeing it from weeds.
When the plant becomes tall, it is better to tie up the delphinium, especially those varieties that can reach two meters in height.
Delphinium loves feeding. You can give him this treat twice a month. Only the composition changes.
At first, nitrogen must be present in the complex fertilizer, then it is excluded. Otherwise, the plant will begin to “fatten” and gain green mass to the detriment of the formation of the inflorescence.
You can form flower bushes by pruning. Inspect the plant, cut out weak shoots at the very base.
The remaining strong, strong ones will become even stronger, having received additional nutrition from the roots.
The decorative effect will benefit, the whole bush will become more powerful.
Reproduction methods
In addition to the somewhat troublesome seed, there is also a simple way of propagating delphinium - vegetative.
It is known to convey the characteristics of the variety without distortion. Moreover - quickly.
Delphinium is propagated vegetatively as follows:
- Dividing the bush;
- Rooting shoots (cuttings).
Dividing the bush. The bush can be divided in the spring, or in the fall. The method is simple.
Young (annual and biennial) plants are not used for this purpose. They take the older ones.
The division is done as follows:
- The bush is dug up, well, but the roots are carefully washed.
- Over the years, the inside of the bush may become damaged; rotten or dry fragments are cut out and disinfected. Potassium permanganate and brilliant green are suitable.
- Using a disinfected knife, cut the bush into fragments. Each part - division - should consist of part of the rhizome, shoot or growth bud and roots.
- Next are two options. Either they are planted directly in the ground, or they are kept in gentle conditions by planting them in pots. The second option makes it easier for the gardener to monitor and care for planting material. But the first one gives good results. True, a small waste is possible in the soil - the death of some seedlings. Again: this directly depends on the care.
Cuttings. The method is preferable if you have a large adult delphinium bush from which you need to get many new plants at once.
The algorithm is simple:
- Rake the soil where the stems emerge from the bush in the spring.
- At this time, the shoots are already growing, and cuttings are formed from them (young, new ones).
- The cutting is cut out together with the “heel” - a small section of the rhizome.
- Then we choose where to plant:
- Immediately to the garden;
- In a container (container, box);
- Form a school - plant it in the sand for rooting. - The upper part is not cut off, so it evaporates moisture strongly. But the roots have not yet formed. In order for the cuttings to live and take root, they must be moistened and often (sprayed). This will last a week, then the cuttings will adapt.
- If they were rooted in boxes, after a month they are transplanted into pots. They grow there for about another month. Not fast. But reliably: solid roots are formed.
- Afterwards you can safely move it into the ground.
Pre-winter work
Delphinium is propagated vegetatively more often in autumn.
Plants that have just taken root should be prepared for wintering; they are not yet as strong as those planted in the spring or those that have been living on the site for several years.
It’s the same with plants sown at the end of summer: it’s difficult for them in the first winter, especially if it turns out to be frosty. Or the region is traditionally harsh with winter cold.
Delphinium, beloved by many, will require easy care.
What can be done? Provide “youth” with shelter. Film if thaws are infrequent.
Spruce branches are better, they protect, keep warm, and damping off will not happen in case of warming.
Newly planted bushes will overwinter well if buried.
Old-time plants are also prepared - they prune the shoots, leaving 30 cm in length. The snow will cover the plantings and protect them.
The last technique is excluded in areas where the following were noticed:
- Insufficient drainage, periodic, albeit short-term, stagnation of water;
- Rot diseases.
Here, it is advisable to prune stems that have dried out towards the end of the growing season in the spring, so as not to provoke rotting of the rhizome part.
Diseases and pests
Surprisingly, diseases also settle on poisonous flowers, and pests also show gastronomic interest in delphiniums.
A plant, like a person, gets sick from a combination of circumstances: a drop in immunity due to stress.
Spurred snake stress - bad weather. Prolonged heat, drought or cold rains are a blow to the delphinium’s immunity.
He becomes vulnerable, the gates open to infections and pests, blissful just at such a time.
Common diseases:
- Powdery mildew. This fungus does not spare almost all plants, especially if it rains;
- Ramulariasis is also a fungal disease, a companion of rainy summers;
- Ring spot is already a virus;
- Bacterial black spot is a disease of bacterial etiology.
Powdery mildew. It is characterized by symptoms common to other diseased crops:
- Plaque on leaves;
- Withering;
- Wet rot;
- Death of the aboveground part.
Prevention is important, treatment is more difficult. It is necessary to provide ventilation without thickening the plantings, and carry out pruning in a timely manner (cut weak shoots to the ground).
In rainy summers, copper preparations - fungicides - will help in prevention.
Ramulariasis. The disease can be recognized by a large number of spots on the leaves.
With progressive ramulariasis, the spots merge.
Prevention against fungal infections is general. If the disease appears, you will have to apply fungicides.
The main pests of delphinium:
Slugs, snails. Areas with the blue “king of gardens”, as well as with spurs of other colors, are often favored by slugs.
This soft-bodied pest has teeth worse than a shark's. Biologists count up to forty thousand hard teeth, sharp as knives, in the peculiar grater of the slug’s oral apparatus.
Juicy young leaves and stems of delphinium are tempting for pests.
This also applies to close relatives of the slug that have shell protection - snails. Snails and slugs chew the flesh of the plant.
If you don't fight, there will be nothing left of the bushes. They “take” this family by sprinkling it around the bushes, fortunately the distance allows, with sand and ash.
Slippery gluttonous gourmets will not overcome such an obstacle.
When there are large numbers of slugs, traps (rags, boards) are made and insecticides are used. You can place a bleach solution nearby: slugs don’t like the smell.
Delphinium fly. They called it that for a reason. It is not dolphins who suffer from it, but delphiniums.
A specific pest, it prefers this plant on the menu. The most dangerous for our giant plant.
If he grows up, he will grow up. And it will even set buds. But it won’t be able to bloom. Because the “name fly”, having settled on the site, targets the buds and lays eggs there.
The larvae feed on the contents of the bud and eat the reproductive apparatus (pistils and anthers - stamens).
Buds or flowers trying to open quickly wither and fall off.
The delphinium fly is vulnerable to the use of pesticides (toxic chemicals). Plants are sprayed at the beginning of budding, and also during budding.
If necessary, repeat the treatment on flowering plantings and after flowering.
Delphinium is breathtakingly beautiful. It attracts with its power, is noticeable from afar - a real pride of a gardener.
Any beauty by itself will not last long. It takes work to create and maintain it.
Knowing how to grow delphinium will help you do it.
Lush, long flowering of huge inflorescences with flowers that enchant the eye, varied in color, shape, and size - compensates for labor costs, worries and worries.
Delphinium will become your long-term joy - it is generous in return.
See you soon, dear readers!
They belong to the buttercup family and number about 450 species. The flowers of the plant are collected in the form of a pyramidal inflorescence located on a long peduncle. Their color scheme can cover various shades of white, blue, indigo and violet, captivating everyone with their uniqueness. Let's consider the main types of this beauty.
The homeland of this representative of delphiniums is the northern mountains of Europe, Siberia and Mongolia. Graceful reaches 1.5 m in height. Its stems are bare, the flowers are blue, collected in loose clusters.
This variety was first bred in 1837 and since then has often been used as a source for growing hybrids, as it has a large supply of breeding possibilities. Tall delphinium blooms in July for 20–25 days.
Did you know?There is a giant form of high delphinium, which reaches 3 m in height and blooms generally later than the original form.
In the wild, this variety grows in California. Its stems are tall, 40–100 cm, erect, branched, bare, leafy. The rhizome is tuberous in shape.
The inflorescence is a loose panicle consisting of 10–20 flowers, 3.5 cm in diameter, reddish in color with a yellow eye. Garden forms can be bright red and orange. Delphinium holostem blooms in June and July.
It was introduced into garden culture in 1869 in Great Britain. If you want to decorate yours with it, then an excellent combination for it would be with yellow and orange flowers - for example, or with its openwork and delicate shades. 
It grows in the wild in Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim, and Tibet. It grows preferably in meadows and rocky plains in dry climates. Reaches a height of no more than 40 cm.
Stems are elongated, bare. The leaves are semicircular in shape, the lobes at their tips are 1–2 cm wide. The loose panicle inflorescence consists of 6–20 flowers with a diameter of about 4 cm, bright blue with a dark eye. It was introduced into garden culture in 1880.
Blue delphinium is not resistant enough to the conditions of our climate, so sometimes problems arise when growing it. However, the plant quickly renews itself by seeds and blooms again within a year. 
The mountains of the Pamirs, Tibet, India and Afghanistan are considered the birthplace of the Bruno delphinium. The peculiarity of this is that it can grow in high terrain - up to 6000 m above sea level.
It reaches a height of 30 cm to 50 cm and is used mainly for decorating rocky trees. It has semi-funnel-shaped leaves with serrated lobes. There are 5–10 flowers, 5 cm in diameter, the inflorescence is a panicle.
Important! Delphinium "Bruno" is able to bloom only at warm temperatures. With the onset of cold weather, he can die instantly.
The color of the flowers can take shades from blue to dark purple, the eye is mostly black. The shape of the flowers is unique and differs from others in its originality. 
The name of this variety comes from the mountains of Kashmir, where this flower grows in the wild at an altitude of 3000–4000 m. An adult grows up to 20–40 cm. The leaves are round, divided into 5 parts, with denticles at the tips.
5 cm in diameter, pale purple in color, black eye. Blooms actively in June-July. The Kashmiri species is very popular among designers, as its hybrid forms with a variety of colors can create contrasts in garden areas.
It was first developed in Europe in 1875. It is most widespread in. 
In the wild, this species grows in Southern California and Mexico in elevated areas. Delphinium red, as seen in the photo, has a bright color characteristic of its name. An adult plant grows up to 2 m.
The flowers are red in color with yellow eyes, 5 cm in diameter, collected in 15–30 pieces in inflorescences up to 60 cm long. This variety prefers dry places. Introduced into garden culture in 1856.
With its help, new species of delphinium with non-standard colors are developed. The only drawback of the selected varieties is their low winter hardiness; they are grown mainly in greenhouses or specially designated premises. 
The beautiful delphinium is far from the most popular species, but it is successfully used to decorate home gardens. It reaches a height of about 80 cm. It has simple, erect, densely leafy stems covered with short hairs over the entire surface.
The leaves are heart-shaped and five-parted. The flowers are rich blue in color with a dark eye, collected in inflorescences 35–45 cm long. Appeared in garden culture in 1897. 
This species covers a large number of varieties grown through a process of hybridization that began in 1859. They all differ in height, flower diameter, shades and size of inflorescences.
The height of an adult plant is 120–200 cm, most of which is a pyramidal raceme, consisting of 50–80 simple-shaped flowers with a diameter of about 7 cm. It does not tolerate drought well, so the best condition for it is a cool and humid summer.
To prevent its flowers from fading in the sun, they need to be shaded during the midday hours.
Important!For delphiniums, thaws are the most dangerous, since its rhizomes are located close to the surface and can easily dry out, which will lead to the death of the plant.
This one is considered the ancestor of cultivated varieties. Grows in Eastern Siberia. Reaches a height of 45–95 cm. Its stem is bare and smooth, with small hairs at the base.
The leaves are bicolored, bright green above and bluish below. Flowers of a rich bluish hue can be elliptical or oval in shape. The inflorescence is presented in the form of a simple multi-flowered raceme.
In general, delphinium labiata is quite winter-hardy and does not need shelter in the winter cold. The plant itself is unpretentious, but if you want it to please you with active growth and lush flowering, you should observe optimal growing conditions. 
It grows in the mountains of a country such as Kenya, at an altitude of 1800–3000 m. It is quite well adapted to the temperate climate of England and Sweden, where it is grown en masse. In adulthood, the plant has a height of 60 to 200 cm.
The leaves are smooth, 5–7 divided. The inflorescence consists of 10–12 flowers collected in a panicle. The bluish-green color of the flowers and the light green eye add unusualness and peculiarity to this species.
This variety of delphinium is the most successful for growing and will be a great addition to yours. 
Delphinium is a delicate and graceful flower crop of the ranunculaceae family. The luxurious appearance of delphinium goes well with other flowering plants in the summer garden.
The spectacular inflorescences of the bush have a complex pyramidal or cylindrical brush. An adult plant often reaches 2-2.5 m in height, while the length of the stem with flowers varies from 60 to 80 cm.
The plant produces simple, semi-double or double flowers, the diameter of which is about 7 cm. Delphinium blooms from July to mid-August.
Delphinium inflorescences are purple, bright blue, blue and white, sometimes there are pink shades. The leaves of the plant are also beautiful and unusual - they are cut into jagged-pointed slices and greatly decorate the long stem of the plant.
Factors for successfully growing and flowering delphinium in the garden
In order for this beautiful flower to delight its owner and surprise others with abundant and regular flowering, favorable conditions for life should be created for the flower:
- The place for planting the plant should be sunny, however, direct sunlight throughout the day can destroy the plant. Therefore, care should be taken to ensure that the selected area is slightly shaded, especially at midday. For example, a plant feels comfortable under a tree or next to a tall bush, near a fence or near the wall of a house;
- It is advisable to loosen and fertilize the soil where the delphinium grows more often. Heavy clay soil must be diluted with sand and humus;
- delphinium tolerates drought quite easily and does not like excess moisture in the ground, however, when planting inflorescences, the plant should be watered abundantly;
The only weak point of delphinium is its fragility. In order not to lose the beautiful blooming pyramid of flowers, the plant must be tied up. Strong wind, rain, heavy inflorescences can destroy the bush.
A particularly vulnerable spot is the junction of the stem and rhizome. Therefore, if the gardener does not want to see a broken two-meter stem of the delphinium, it is best to tie up the bush in advance. The first garter should be made at a level of half a meter from the ground, the next - at a level of 1-1.2 m.
Plant nutrition
Delphinium is very sensitive to feeding and responds to care with large flowers and bright colors. The plant should be fed 3 times during the warm period of the year. The first feeding should be done in early spring, when the first tender leaves of the flower crop appear from the ground.
It is necessary to purchase ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride and ammonium sulfate. Fertilizers should be mixed and scattered on the soil around the plants. Then water the soil a little. You can replace these chemical fertilizers with regular mullein infusion.
The second feeding must be done when the inflorescences are forming. At this time, the plant needs superphosphate and potassium.
The third feeding is carried out after the delphinium gradually fades. In September, delphinium bushes should be treated with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers without nitrogen. The plant will gain strength to grow and bloom next year.
How to propagate delphinium
Delphiniums look great if planted sparsely. When combined with other flowers they do not lose their charm. However, if they are planted in a large clearing and bloom at the same time, this is an unforgettable sight for others.
That is why many flower lovers dream of propagating this graceful flower. Delphiniums reproduce as follows:
- using seeds;
- young cuttings;
- kidneys (the most labor-intensive and unreliable method);
- dividing an adult bush.
Propagation using seeds
You can collect seeds from already growing plants, or you can buy ready-made seeds from trusted suppliers.
Important - delphinium seed material must be used the next year after collection, after which the seeds completely lose their viability. In addition, the seeds must be stored in the refrigerator after collection. They must be planted in February in seedling trays.
Propagation by young cuttings
For this type of propagation, young shoots of the plant should be used. In spring, you should choose strong, healthy shoots of the bush about 12-15 cm long.
You need to break off the cutting with the “heel” at the base of the plant, put it in water for 1-2 days, and then root it in a greenhouse in a well-lit place.
If the cutting has taken root, after about a month it can be transferred to open ground. This is the most reliable method of reproduction, giving 70-80% of successful results.
Reproduction by dividing the bush
Adult delphinium bushes can be divided into individual roots. To do this in the spring, you need to dig the bush out of the ground and wash the rhizome with water. Then use a sharp knife to separate the cuttings of the plant so that each separated bush has a sufficient amount of root system.
Holes should be prepared in the selected bed. The soil must be fertilized with humus, peat and wood ash. After planting, you should regularly moisten and loosen the soil next to the plant.
Beautiful strong delphiniums are a real decoration for a personal plot. They look great along garden paths; you can decorate flower beds or landscape corners with them. Caring for and propagating delphiniums will not take much time and effort.
But as a result, you can proudly enjoy their lush flowering, and this will be the wonderful result of garden improvement work.
Photo of delphinium on the site
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