When to sow delphinium before winter. Delphinium planting and care in open ground in autumn. Proper cultivation of delphiniums

A plant of the Ranunculaceae family, very tall, up to 2 m, with dense candle-shaped inflorescences of the most delicate flowers in blue, blue, pink, lilac, and white colors. Perennial delphinium grows well in sunny areas and easily tolerates light shading during the midday hours. Delphinium prefers fertile loamy and sandy loam, moderately moist soils.

There are several secrets when sowing delphinium seeds in March, which affect their germination. Before planting, delphinium seeds should be soaked for a day in epin or zircon. Then, after sowing them, place this container in a plastic bag and refrigerate for 2 weeks. This is seed stratification.

When sowing seeds in October before winter, delphinium seeds naturally undergo stratification. This is why some plants, in particular delphinium, do not germinate seeds without going through the phase of low temperatures. After two weeks, the seeds will begin to sprout right in the refrigerator. After this, the container can be placed on the window.

Transplanting to a permanent place in late May - early June, when the threat of spring frosts has passed; planting scheme: optimal distance between plants - 35 x 40 cm; plant height: 180 - 200 cm; diameter of flowers in inflorescence: 3 - 7 cm, height of peduncle: 40 - 50 cm.

Blooming delphiniums When propagated by seeds, it occurs in the second year. It blooms in June - July, faded inflorescences must be cut off, then delphiniums will bloom a second time in August - September. Perennial delphinium is easily propagated by dividing the rhizome both in spring and autumn. When delphinium is propagated by rhizomes, flowering occurs in the same year.

Care consists of watering, weeding, loosening the soil, fertilizing, destroying pests and preventing diseases. I would like to draw your attention to delphinium pests. When it's time to bloom, tall flower stalks may suddenly fall off. Some people think that it is because of the wind or rain that stems that are too tall fall under their own weight. However, this is not at all true.

In May, the yellow heart-shaped cutworm lays its eggs in the basal part of the stem. In June, when the larvae begin to develop, they gnaw at the thick peduncles of the delphinium and they fall off at the slightest breath of wind. To prevent this from happening, p carry out preventive spraying with insecticides in May and June.

For better and longer flowering, it is recommended to use complex mineral preparations containing the NPK complex. Perennial delphinium needs to be replanted once every four to five years. Transplantation can be done in the fall, at the end of August - September, and in the spring, in April - May. Only when transplanting and dividing the rhizome in the spring, the delphinium may not bloom in the same year if the divisions are too small.

Perennial delphinium perfectly decorates walls and fences, so it can be used in vertical gardening of an area; it looks very beautiful next to climbing roses, as well as in company with other perennials, for example, rudbeckia. It also looks good in “dry” reservoirs - streams, imitating peculiar waves. If you plan to use delphinium for cutting, then it is advisable to remove the side flower stalks, then the central shoot will be more powerful. Have you seen a bouquet of delphiniums? Amazing sight! By the way, delphinum flowers were used in ancient times for fractures; lotions from the flowers help bones heal faster.

Images copyright flickr.com: Carolyn C., DrRob, Luigi FDV, spencerrushton, ishkabibble2010, Alan Buckingham, aniika

Sometimes in the flower beds in the courtyards of experienced gardeners you can see a majestic and unusually spectacular plant - delphinium. Caring for and growing a plant is a rather complicated and troublesome procedure. It often happens that not very beautiful flowers with loose inflorescences grow from seeds bought in a store. In order to get lush, bright plants, you need to follow certain technologies.

Description of the plant

Delphinium is a powerful perennial with a height of 80 cm to 2 m. Its flowers are collected in cluster-shaped or paniculate inflorescences, elongated up to 50 cm. The buds can be double or simple. The petals are most often colored white, blue, cyan or purple. Inside each flower there are two petals of a contrasting color to the main bouquet. They are called staminodes and are needed by the plant to attract insects. Terry varieties do not have such petals.

Planting seeds

So, what kind of care does a plant like delphinium need? Both the cultivation and breeding of these flowers require compliance with certain technologies. Of course, the plants first need to be planted correctly. You can buy delphinium seeds in the store. Before planting, they must be kept in the refrigerator. Seeds cannot be stored for more than a year.

At the first stage, small containers (for example, plastic cups) are a good place to grow young seedlings of a plant such as delphinium. Planting is done in steamed and well-moistened soil. The soil should not reach 1 cm to the top of the cups. The seeds are laid out at a distance of about 2 cm from each other and lightly pressed into the soil. Then they are sprinkled with dry soil. No need to water. Each container should be wrapped in black film and refrigerated for about two weeks.

Growing seedlings

After the first shoots appear, the cups are transferred to the windowsill, removing the polyethylene. Each one needs to be covered with a transparent lid. In this way, the seedlings are grown until they reach it. Once a day, the lid must be removed for ventilation. Water the seedlings very carefully. It is best to do this with a thin stream from a syringe, filling the latter with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Twice a week, seedlings need to be fed with the addition of Epin (2 ampoules per 10 liters of water).

Dive

As soon as the seedlings have their first leaves (2-3), they will need to be transplanted into larger containers. You can use regular seedling boxes. The plant is buried to the point where the first true leaves grow. Grown delphiniums are transferred to open ground immediately after the end of frost.

Choosing a place for delphiniums

Only in a well-lit area can you get a beautiful, spectacular delphinium. Caring for these plants will subsequently consist solely of periodic feeding and replanting. The flowerbed must be laid out in a place protected from the wind. The fact is that delphiniums are quite tall plants, and therefore they simply break under heavy loads. For the same reason, shoots more than half a meter long are tied to pegs. Delphiniums should not be planted in places where groundwater comes close to the surface.

Soil preparation

So, how to plant delphinium? Care and cultivation will be successful only if the flower beds for the plants are prepared correctly. Delphiniums like slightly acidic or neutral soil, well fertilized. A hole is dug under the flowerbed and filled with soil consisting of carefully mixed garden soil, sand and rotted compost. In order for plants to develop better, you can add Kemira fertilizer to the soil. The planted seedlings need to be properly watered. The soil under the plants will need to be moistened generously periodically - until rooting. Bushes are planted at a distance of at least 70 cm from each other.

Delphinium: care and cultivation. How to fertilize?

For the first time, delphiniums are fertilized in the spring. In order to get lush inflorescences, you need to apply nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus fertilizer (with a predominance of potassium and phosphorus) to the seedlings. In the spring, peat is added under the bushes (2 cm layer). As soon as the plants gain color, they need to be fertilized a second time. This time, 30 g of potassium and 50 g of superphosphate per 1 m 2 of soil are added to the soil. In August, ammonium sulfate (30 g), (20 g), ammonium nitrate (10 g) and superphosphate (60 g) can be added to the plants.

How to water?

Adult plants require watering only during very dry periods. in delphiniums it is developed simply remarkably and goes deep into the ground. Therefore, under normal conditions, the plant is able to obtain sufficient moisture for growth on its own. However, the soil under newly planted or recently transplanted delphiniums needs to be watered.

Delphinium: planting in autumn

If desired, you can plant delphiniums in the fall. This is done at the end of August or beginning of September. In this case, the bed is prepared in exactly the same way as in the spring. Garden soil is mixed with humus, Kemira and compost. You can also add a little ash.

Dividing and replanting plants

Delphiniums can be successfully grown in the same place for about 10 years. But it often happens that already in the fourth to sixth year the middle of the bush begins to rot. Of course, this significantly reduces the decorative value of a plant such as delphinium. Transplanting it, however, is not a particularly complicated procedure. You just need to dig up the bush and divide the roots. On each piece there should be no more than 3-4 adult shoots surrounded by green shoots.

Reproduction by shoots

The delphinium plant, which is most often planted by seeds or by dividing the roots, can also be grown from cuttings if desired. Shoots at least 10 cm long are suitable for this. Before planting, they are kept in a heteroauxin solution for about 2 hours. After this, they are stuck into a moistened sand-peat mixture and covered with a jar or polyethylene. For one and a half months, the soil near the petioles must be constantly moistened. This is the period they need to take root.

Preparing for winter

Adult delphiniums tolerate winter very well. Young ones, as well as newly transplanted ones, should be covered with spruce branches or film for the winter. The latter, so that the wind does not carry it away, needs to be buried along the edges with earth. Mature plants are pruned before the onset of cold weather. In this case, at least 30 cm of each shoot should remain above the soil surface. In this way, you can protect the delphinium quite reliably. Planting these flowers in the fall is done quite often. Such young plants can simply be buried in soil.

Diseases and pests

Of the pests, this beautiful plant is most often damaged by the delphinium fly, slugs, aphids and nematodes. There are certain methods to combat these insects. The most dangerous pest is the delphinium fly. This insect lays its eggs at the base of the plant stem. Therefore, when transplanting delphiniums, you should inspect their roots as carefully as possible. You must add “Bazudin” to the hole. If these insects are noticed in the flowerbed, it should be treated with a weak solution of karbofos.

How to make bouquets

These wonderful plants began to be grown in our country not so long ago. At the permanent flower exhibition in Kazan, they, being presented for the first time, once created a real sensation. Today, in yards and gardens you can mainly see New Zealand or cultivated delphinium (a complex hybrid). In bouquets, his flowers look simply magnificent. To prolong storage, cut inflorescences need to be turned over and water poured into the hollow trunk. To prevent it from spilling out, the green “tube” is sealed with a cotton swab. Delphiniums look best in narrow, tall vases. These flowers will retain their freshness for quite a long time - about 10 days.

Delphiniums as part of landscape design

Well, now you know when to replant the delphinium. What role can this plant play in delphiniums? Delphiniums are always planted in groups. This makes the plant look much more impressive. At the same time, it is worth growing varieties with inflorescences of different colors in one flower bed. Very often, delphiniums are used as background plants in mixborders. At the same time, it’s a good idea to combine them with phlox, roses, lilies, and dahlias. Sometimes delphiniums are planted near the front porch of a house or along its facade.

To create an original composition of bright flowers at their summer cottage, many summer residents grow perennial delphinium. It amazes with its colors and grandeur. If you look at it from the outside, it seems that giant candles with multi-colored lights have appeared in the garden. Despite this, the plant is not difficult to grow at home. The main thing is to adhere to the basic principles of planting a flower. What is the king of the country flower bed - delphinium? Are there any specifics to growing it? The answers to these questions will help you fall in love with the unique creation of nature.

History of the name and main characteristics

Almost all names and titles have their own mysterious history. Delphinium is no exception. One of them sounds something like this.

Many centuries ago, when the mythical gods of Greece controlled every human action, a talented sculptor lived on earth. His beloved girl died tragically. To find solace, he made a statue of her out of stone, and then brought her to life. The evil gods did not like this act, and they turned the romantic into a dolphin. The girl cried bitterly on the seashore, hoping to see her lover. After a long time, a dolphin swam to her and placed a pretty blue flower on her lap. It was named delphinium as a reminder of true love.

There is an opinion that the flower got its name due to the fact that when unopened it resembled a dolphin. It is often known as larkspur or spur. An adjacent variant of the plant (annual, perennial) was combined into a group whose name is Sokirk. Some gardeners believe that the flower is named after the Greek city of Delphi, where it grows in huge quantities. Whatever the story turns out to be true, it does not detract from the splendor of the garden beauty.

Today, approximately 450 species of the majestic flower are known. Its habitat extends from China to the tropics of the African continent. Unique photos of delphinium help you see the flower in all its pristine beauty.

The plant belongs to the Buttercup family. The bud is quite large in size. Sometimes it can reach 2 meters. The inflorescences are located along the shoot and resemble a standing candle. Available in the following shades:

• sky blue;
  
• blue;
• lilac;
  
• snow-white;
  
• lilac;
  
• red;
  
• pink.
  

Perennial and annual varieties are grown, mainly from seeds. The most popular annual varieties have long been loved by flora connoisseurs.

Ajax

The plant was bred by combining two varieties of delphinium. The result is an original flower up to 100 cm high. The sessile leaf plates have a dense cross-section. The inflorescences in the form of a huge spike grow approximately 30 cm and come in a variety of shades.

Fans of miniature plantings grow dwarf varieties that grow only 35 cm from the ground. Delicate terry buds are painted in bright colors and bloom until the first frost.

Field

The annual delphinium flower has been cultivated since 1572. Grows up to a height of 2 meters. The buds can be simple or lushly terry. A touch of traditional character. Blooms in June. The last “lights” at the beginning of autumn.

Delphinium perennial

Scientists began breeding perennial varieties in the 19th century. As a result, a number of original species appeared:

Today, gardeners grow perennial delphinium of various types. The main feature is the unique shades of the buds. There are about 800 variations. Inflorescences are of a simple nature, double and semi-double. The diameter of the flowers is from 2 to 9 cm.

To create garden flower beds, breeders offer flowers of different heights - low-growing options, giants and medium-sized plants.

Depending on the area of ​​origin, the flowers of the perennial hybrid delphinium are divided into three main groups: Marfin, New Zealand and Scottish. Each of them has its own characteristics.

Marfin group of delphiniums

For example, plants of the Marfin group can withstand low temperatures. They are distinguished by their unique decorative effect. Large semi-double inflorescences are decorated with contrasting spots reminiscent of the human eye. These include the following varieties:

It is almost impossible to grow flowers of the Marfin group from seeds. The main reason is that they do not preserve the varietal characteristics of the plant.

New Zealand group of delphiniums

Delphiniums, which belong to the New Zealand group, can grow up to two meters in height. They differ in double and semi-double buds. Some species have corrugated petals. Flowers are resistant to disease, are not afraid of cold, and are perfectly preserved when cut. The most common types are valued all over the world:

• "Sweethearts"
• "Pagan Purples"
• "Sunny Skies"
• "Blue Lace";
• "Green Twist"

Their majestic beauty never goes out of style. This is the beauty of flowering plants.

Scottish group of delphiniums

Scottish delphiniums attract attention with their original super double buds of various shades, which sometimes have about 60 petals. If the plant grows up to one and a half meters, then the inflorescence occupies 80 cm of total length. The perennial is unpretentious to weather conditions.

If you practice growing from seeds, delphinium retains its varietal parameters. The following popular types are known today:

• "Sweet Sensation";
• "Blueberry Pie";
• "Deepest Pink";
• "Morning Sunrise".

Truly beautiful masterpieces of creation. But are there any secrets to growing delphinium from seeds at home? Let's try to figure it out.

The main principles of growing a flower

The first step is to prepare suitable soil for planting the plant. It is best to mix garden soil and humus in equal quantities. Add sifted sand (half of 1 part), perlite (0.5 cups per 5 liters of soil) and hold the mixture over the steam of a water bath for 60 minutes. During this time, seeds of various weeds and fungal spores will be destroyed.
Now you can put the soil into containers and start planting delphinium seeds.

In order for the flowers to germinate successfully, it is advisable to put the planting material in a gauze bag. Prepare a solution of potassium permanganate, then drop the seeds into it. Leave for 20 minutes, rinse under running water and refill with special epina liquid, which is sold in flower shops, for a day. Dry the seeds before planting.

Planting material is carefully laid out on the soil surface. If different varieties are used, paper plates with the name and date of planting are attached.
The seeds are covered with a layer of soil of approximately 4 mm. Lightly tamp so that the grains do not float when watered with warm water.

The basic principles of how to grow delphinium from seeds imply careful care of the crops. To do this, the containers are covered first with transparent film and then with black film to speed up the growth process. The container is installed near the window, preferably right next to the glass.

The optimal temperature should not exceed +16 degrees, not lower than 11 degrees Celsius.

Depending on when to plant delphinium in open ground, the process of growing from seeds can be accelerated. To do this, containers with planting material are placed in the refrigerator, on the veranda or loggia. It’s not scary if the thermometer drops below 6 degrees below zero. After 14 days, the containers are again placed on the windowsill next to the glass. Thanks to such procedures, the first shoots appear after 7 or 14 days.

As soon as greenery appears in the containers, the transparent and black film must be removed.

Since the seeds of this majestic flower are very capricious, they need to be seriously prepared for sowing. Stratification of delphinium at home is done using a small roll of fabric. The material is cut into strips, moistened with water and planting material is laid out in paths. After this, the edges of the strips are bent from the inside closer to the center. Then the fabric structure is rolled up and secured with soft wire.

A little liquid is poured into a small container to maintain optimal humidity. The rolls are dipped into it without touching the surface of the water and kept for several days. At the same time, they try not to block the constant access of air. As a result of this procedure, the similarity of the delphinium increases.

Secrets of breeding garden beauty

Many flora lovers prefer to decorate their area with large flowers. Some people plant peonies, others like roses. An unsurpassed ornamental plant with bright buds on erect shoots has won the hearts of true gardeners. They come with the original fringe and without it. The diameter of an individual flower can reach 10 cm. In the lower part, the shoots are covered with wide green leaves.

Growing a unique flower from seeds called “New Zealand giant delphinium” requires the following operations:

The bag must be ventilated daily to maintain maximum seed germination. Some gardeners use special sphagnum moss instead of bags, where the material swells well.

When the seeds are ready, you can use them to sow delphinium seedlings in special containers. The plant grains are placed in holes 3 mm deep and covered with a small layer of earth.
Can be lightly tamped. Then the container is covered with film or plastic bags are placed on it. In this form, place it in a warm place. If the house is warm, you can put it on the windowsill. After 3-4 days, the containers are placed in the refrigerator overnight. After two weeks, the first shoots appear. As soon as this happens, the film is immediately removed.

Sometimes flora lovers have a question: when to sow delphiniums as seedlings in order to successfully grow flowers. Experienced gardeners advise doing this in late March or early April. It will not be too late to grow seedlings even in May.

Seedlings that have grown three full leaves dive. But you should prepare for the procedure in advance. Loose soil is collected in disposable cups and heated to room temperature. Then, one seedling is placed in each container so that it can take root well.

To prepare the plant for growth in open ground, it must be hardened off. To do this, the containers are periodically taken out into fresh air. Immediately before planting, the sprouts are fertilized with fertilizer.

There is an opinion that annual delphinium is less capricious when grown from seeds indoors. Perhaps this is true. After all, the plant differs from perennials in that it blooms much earlier. It has small buds and grows only up to a meter in height, while perennials are found in gigantic sizes.

The seeds must be fresh or stored in the refrigerator. Since flower seedlings develop rather slowly, delphinium is sown at the end of winter. Most often - in February. For this, planting material is carefully prepared by performing the necessary procedures.

Seeds are sown evenly in small containers filled with soil. To make them clearly visible, the surface of the earth is sprinkled with sand. Practice shows that sowing density has a significant impact on the development of young seedlings. The best option recommended by gardeners is to place no more than 2 seeds per 1 cm². Although it may seem too thick, don't worry. For the king, flower beds are the norm.

The video provided shows the correct planting of delphinium seeds. After looking at it, it won’t be difficult to grow such a magnificent flower in your garden. Often it is the delphinium that becomes the pride of a country flower bed. After all, it fits well into any suburban landscape. The fascinating process of growing a flower brings true satisfaction to devoted fans of green spaces.

Delphinium is one of the most spectacular and unusual flowers in any garden. No matter what is planted on the site, the bright inflorescences of the delphinium are visible even from a distance. This plant looks especially good in a group. In order to plant a delphinium in the fall, you need to understand its agrotechnical features, when to replant the delphinium and how to plant with seeds.

Planting delphinium seeds before winter

Delphinium is a rather complicated plant. It can be planted in both spring and autumn. If the plant is planted in the autumn, then there is only one way to do this, plant the plant from seeds. Delphinium is planted from seeds before winter from seed collected from a faded plant. Then there is a chance that the seedlings will sprout together in the spring.

It is very important, before sowing delphinium before winter, to pay attention to several rules:

1. For sowing, it is better to choose a sunny, windless place. If a place is too windy, a tall plant may break. It is very fragile at the base.
2. If the planting site will be flooded with melt water in the spring, then it is better to plant it on a mound so that too much water flow does not damage the future plant.
3. It must be taken into account that overwintered seedlings do not always match the expected color. This is due to the fact that under the influence of low temperature a blue pigment is formed, which is dominant in this plant.
4. Before sowing, it is better to store the seeds in the refrigerator, as they really like low temperatures.

How to plant from seeds?

How to plant delphinium seeds before winter? First of all, it should be noted that flowers planted before winter are more durable. Overwintered seedlings will be hardened by frost and will no longer be so afraid of temperature changes that occur in open ground. Such plants are not afraid of spring frosts, which sometimes happen.

Watch the video about the secret to success in planting delphinium.

But when planting, you must take into account that they will bloom only after 2-3 years. In the first year the plant produces very sparse flowering.

The seed needs to be kept at a cold temperature. It needs to be kept in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks. Not everyone has the time to perform such a procedure. If delphinium is planted before winter, the same process occurs, only under natural conditions. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. This way, they will begin to grow when the time is right, rather than after the gardener has a window in his busy spring schedule to plant.

Seeds for planting should be freshly harvested. Since those that are stale on store shelves can disappoint with their sprouts. This flower does not like room temperature and can remain in a bag for no more than 11 months.

When to plant delphinium seeds in the fall?

It is better to plant delphinium seeds in the fall in early November. It is very important to wait until the first frost touches the ground. If this is done earlier, when thaws are still possible, then there is a chance that they will have time to germinate, then their death is inevitable.

The planting time must be determined depending on the region. In the middle zone, the first frosts occur in November; in the south, this time can occur in December and even January. The soil for sowing must be covered with an ice crust. In such soil, the seeds will not germinate, but will safely overwinter under a layer of snow. Growing delphinium from seeds is not an easy task, but if you sow in the fall, you can make your work easier.

Read about planting and caring for standard roses.
And also about the correct planting of garlic before winter.

Autumn planting and care of delphinium in open ground

Before sowing seeds, you need to take care of the land for planting in advance. It is better to do this when the soil can still be easily dug up, because frozen soil can no longer be cultivated.

Planting is carried out in the following steps:

1. The soil needs to be dug up, furrows made and organic and mineral fertilizers applied.
2. Prepare soil for filling after sowing. You can prepare garden soil in bags, but you can also use store-bought soil.
3. The seed material is laid out in furrows and covered with dry, unfrozen soil. But you need to keep in mind that you cannot cover the seeds with too thick a layer of soil. In this case, it will be compacted over the winter and it will be extremely difficult for seedlings to break through such a layer of earth.

But if the soil was not prepared in advance, and you want to see flowers in the spring, you can try another method. True, no one can give a guarantee that the seedlings will sprout. The seeds need to be distributed over the soil and covered with dry, unfrozen soil. This soil can be obtained from a greenhouse or purchased soil can be used. In winter, snow will cover this layer, and future flowers will survive the winter well.

Perennial delphinium can also be planted in the fall. But perennial varieties bloom mainly only in the second year. In the first year they may also have flowers, but not pronounced ones. If annual varieties are sown in spring, then they bloom in summer. But you can also plant such varieties in the fall.

In addition, delphinium can be planted at the end of summer. In this case, the flower sprouts. Of course, it doesn’t bloom, but the emerging seedlings tolerate the winter well. In this case, preparing the delphinium for winter should be done as for adult plants.

The flower must be cut to a height of at least 20 centimeters. This plant has a tubular stem, so water cannot get inside. Plant sections must be covered with clay. Delphinium tolerates snowy winters well, but if there is little snow, it is better to cover the plant with spruce branches or mulch with sawdust and old leaves.

Yes, not everyone succeeds in planting delphinium in the fall. Have you ever tried to plant delphinium with seeds? Share your successful and not so successful experience of planting delphinium in the fall in the comments, and also watch a video on how to properly plant delphinium in open ground.

Delphinium, popularly called “spur,” is a perennial plant up to 2 m high with numerous stems (10-15). The plant has gained love and popularity thanks to its large (up to 7 cm) unrealistically beautiful blue, white, cyan, violet and yellow flowers, collected in spectacular huge racemose inflorescences with a diameter of up to 80 cm. Spur is quite unpretentious, tolerates cold weather and drought well, needs a moderate amount moisture. Landing carry out seeds straightaway in open ground or seedling method.

Where to plant delphiniums?

Optimally plant delphinium in clayey and loamy soils, low-acid, enriched with organic (compost, humus, ash) and granular mineral fertilizers. It is better to choose a place that is sufficiently warmed by sunlight and protected from gusts of wind. In this case, it is preferable to protect the plant from direct sunlight at midday, as some varieties of delphinium can fade.

Over time, delphinium bushes grow, degenerate, and become smaller. Therefore, once every 3-4 years it is recommended to rejuvenate the flowers - plant them. In this case, it is not at all necessary to change the place. It is necessary to very carefully dig up the plants along with the roots and a clod of earth, discard the weak ones and leave the healthy specimens. The flowerbed is dug up, fresh soil, complex and nitrogen fertilizers are added, and the bushes are planted again.

Sowing seeds in open ground

Planting delphinium seeds in open ground is most often done in the spring - in the month of May. For a small plot, add humus, peat (2 kg per m2), nitrophoska (about 10 g per m2) and wood ash at the rate of 100 g per m2. After digging the soil to a depth of about 20-25 cm, compacting, leveling and watering the furrows made, the seeds are sown. Finally, the area is covered with a thin layer of sifted soil (about 1 cm), slightly compacted and covered with polyethylene, agrofabric (agrofibre) or burlap. To increase similarity, it is advisable to keep the seed material moist for 12-14 days at a temperature of about 5°C.

A little about care: the crops are watered once every 3 days at the rate of about 2 liters of water per m2. Immediately after emergence (20-25 days after sowing), the covering material is removed. Caring for plants in summer consists of watering, fertilizing and loosening the soil. As a top dressing, preference is given to a solution of cow manure or mulching the soil with a 2-3 centimeter layer of peat. Next spring, the delphinium is planted in a permanent place, and even then the delphiniums will delight with lush flowering.

Planting delphinium for seedlings

When growing delphiniums using the seedling method, flowering can be achieved already in the first year of planting.

Seedlings are planted in pots or seed boxes in late February - early March, and transferred to open ground in June. The germination of seeds can be increased by placing them in the refrigerator for 2 months (stratification). Depth of sowing seeds for seedlings: 3-4 mm. It is recommended to plant grown seedlings into separate containers with a diameter of 7-10 cm. And in May, seedlings are hardened on a glazed balcony or in the open air at a temperature of at least +8 degrees.

All summer you need to regularly water the spur plant at the root, avoiding moisture getting on the flowers and leaves. Perennial delphinium is especially sensitive to lack of moisture during the bud setting phase.

We plant delphinium in the fall (pre-winter sowing)

Delphiniums can also be planted in the fall (if you want to achieve early flowering, but don’t want to bother with seedlings). Seeds are planted in the ground in the fall - early October. Other sources advise doing this in November. When sown in winter, seeds undergo a process of natural stratification.

The sown seeds are sprinkled with a mixture of river sand and peat (1 to 1) and covered with spruce branches, leaves or burlap. As soon as the seedlings hatch, the shelter is removed.

The survival rate of seedlings during winter sowing is lower than when planting seedlings or seeds in open ground in the spring. Therefore, in the fall you need to plant 20-30% more seeds than would be done in the spring.

Propagation by dividing rhizomes

Rhizomes of plants 3-4 years old are dug up in spring or September, cut with a knife into 7-10 parts between buds or new shoots. Each part, which must have buds or at least 1 shoot, is planted in a flower garden. In the same year, the spur is already blooming. Typically flowering lasts 1.5-2 months.

Abundant flowering will begin only in the next season, but can occur twice: in June and August.

Planting varietal delphiniums

Varietal species of delphinium are propagated by seeds or cuttings of rhizomes. After sowing seeds in early March in boxes, the first shoots appear after 20 days without picking. In May, it is already possible to plant delphiniums shallowly in the garden bed, planting 3 of them per hole. By August, the plants are already throwing out small inflorescences.

The information was prepared by Elena Linenko based on sources: “Handbook of a Skilled Florist” by O. Ganichkina and “Flowers. Better than everyone else! " L. Verghese.

Delphinium is native to Asia, Europe and North America and belongs to the buttercup family. It has long and firmly occupied one of the places of honor in the gardens of Russian flower growers.

Thanks to its impressive growth and lush pyramidal inflorescences, it goes well with other flowering plants and is often used in the background design of mixborders.

This perennial plant has many varieties, which are usually united under the common name “Cultivated Delphinium”. They differ in height, shape of flowers and their color - from blue, light blue and violet to boiling white and pink.

Features of growing delphinium

Delphiniums grow up to one and a half meters tall and have a hollow stem. Even a slight breeze can break fragile stems. Too hot sun causes flowers to discolor. This determines the choice of place for planting them in the garden.

The plant prefers moderate watering and neutral soil. It is better to water less often, but abundantly. For good flowering, it requires feeding three times a season.

Pruning is an essential element of delphinium care. It also requires a mandatory garter to the support to avoid breaking the tall stem. The first garter should be done when the flower reaches 50-70 centimeters in height.

Important! The garter to the support must be done as the plant grows, every 50 centimeters. It is better to tie it with a strip of soft cloth so as not to pinch the stem.

Planting delphinium in the ground

When planting delphinium in open ground, it is necessary to take into account some subtleties that will help the plant take root well and then give good flowering and growth.

Planting methods

Planting can be done in three ways:

• Seeds
• Cuttings
• Dividing the bush.

Each of these methods has its own characteristics and difficulties. The basic requirements that must be met when planting are as follows:

• Select a landing site in advance, taking into account windiness and light conditions.
• In the fall, prepare the soil in this place. It needs to be dug up, weeds removed as much as possible and fertilized with organic matter.
• In the spring, dig up this place again and apply fertilizers, this time mineral ones.
• Prepare holes measuring 40x40 centimeters and up to 50 centimeters deep, located at a distance of at least 50 centimeters from each other.
• Pour drainage into the bottom of the hole.
• When planting, do not cover the root collar with buds with soil.

Important! After planting, be sure to water the flower generously and continue this watering for about a week.

Optimal time for planting

Both spring and autumn are suitable for planting, the main thing is that the young seedlings are not threatened by frost. Most gardeners prefer spring planting.

Soil for the plant

Delphinium needs neutral, fertile, loose soil. In addition, it is advisable to drain it well. Lime should be added to acidic soil (50 grams per 1 square meter). Clay soil will need to be mixed with sand; you can immediately add drainage in the form of clay shards or broken slate. It is good to add peat to sandy soil.

Planting in spring

Delphiniums are usually planted in the spring in a place prepared in the fall. Planting takes place when the last frosts have ended, usually by the end of April.

Planting in autumn

If desired, you can plant delphinium in the fall, preparing the ground in the same way as for spring planting. The best time for autumn planting will be the end of August or the beginning of September.

Features of caring for delphinium

To get a beautiful, lush and fully blooming delphinium, it needs care. If left unattended, the plant will die or, at best, will not bloom.

Location for the plant

The choice of location is very important for the delphinium. The place should be well lit, but it is very desirable that it be in the shade for two or three hours a day.

This place should not be blown by the wind, because even a flower tied to a support can break.

Pay attention to which places in the garden are the first to form clearings during the thaw. These places are contraindicated for planting delphinium. The fact is that this plant does not have one large rhizome, but only a branched superficial root system.

It tolerates even severe frosts well, but at the slightest thaw the roots begin to rot and rot.

Important! Avoid planting delphinium near shrubs or trees, as they can rob it of nutrients.

Caring for delphinium after flowering

After the delphinium has faded, you need to cut off the main peduncle, unless you plan to pick the seeds. If the peduncle is cut low (8-10 centimeters), then measures must be taken to ensure that the flower does not rot. It has a hollow stem and water can get into it, causing it to rot. Some gardeners use clay to "seal" the stem. You can simply bend the remaining stem towards the ground.

However, you don’t have to cut the stem so low, but only remove about 30 centimeters. It is advisable to remove all faded inflorescences immediately.

When flowering ends, it is necessary to fertilize the plant.

Caring for delphinium in autumn

In autumn, cut off all faded inflorescences. The stem and leaves gradually wither. As soon as the first frosts begin, the plant is pruned, leaving no more than 30 centimeters. Due to its frost resistance, adult delphinium does not require any shelter for the winter, but it is better to cover young plants with foliage and spruce branches.

How to water correctly

In rainy summers, delphinium does not require additional watering. If the summer is too dry, the flower needs to be watered 1-2 times a week so that the soil does not dry out.

Only newly planted flowers require abundant watering within a week after planting.

The delphinium should be watered at the root so that water does not get on the leaves and inflorescences.

Also, abundant watering is needed during the formation of buds.

Feeding and fertilizing the flower

The delphinium is fed three times during the season.

• In spring (second half of April) you need to mix superphosphate (60 grams for an adult plant), ammonium nitrate (10 grams), potassium chloride (25 grams) and ammonium sulfate (35 grams). The fertilizer should be scattered around the bush and mixed with the soil to a depth of 5-6 centimeters. You can sprinkle peat on top.
• Budding period (early June). You need to feed the flower with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
• After flowering at the end of August, I use the same fertilizers as in the spring.

Important! If you have difficulties making your own fertilizer, you can use ready-made compounds for flowering plants.

Delphinium pruning

Pruning delphinium is a mandatory procedure for its growth and flowering. It is necessary for the plant to retain its decorative properties for a long time.

Delphinium grows quickly and produces many young shoots. If they are not pruned, they take a lot of energy from the plant, which has a very bad effect on the size and number of flowers.

Trimming methods

Already in the second year of the bush’s life, young shoots need to be cut out, leaving no more than five of the strongest ones. They need to be cut out when they grow to about 20 centimeters.

When the delphinium grows to 30 centimeters, its excess flower stalks are removed. Only two are left for a young, annual plant and 4-6 for an adult. Only the most powerful of them are retained.

It is better to thin out the central part of the bush in delphiniums.

After flowering, you can radically prune the plant, removing all the stems almost to the root. Then, after a short time, the delphinium will produce new shoots that will bloom for the second time this season. In this case, the flowering, of course, will be weaker than the first, but it will still decorate the garden.

Important! Delphinium produces a second bloom in warmer climates. In moderate temperature conditions of the middle zone, it is better to prevent a second flowering, as it will weaken the plant, and this will affect its lushness in the next season.

Pruning for winter

For the winter, all stems are cut down to 30 centimeters and covered with clay on top.

Delphinium transplant

Delphinium does not like to be replanted too often. It is best to replant bushes that are 4-6 years old. Some gardeners replant once every 3-4 years.

Transplant methods

It is better to replant an old bush in the spring. It is necessary to dig up bushes that have already grown to 15 centimeters. Using a sharp knife, it is divided into several parts, each having 2-3 shoots. The cut areas are treated with charcoal.

The roots are cleared of soil and old deformed parts are removed. Then the divisions are planted in pots with a mixture of fertile soil, humus and sand. It is better to place the pots in a greenhouse for two weeks. And only after this the shoots are transplanted into the ground to a new permanent place.

After transplanting, new plants need to be fed and watered well. Preparing a permanent place for a transplanted plant is the same as when planting.

Important! Even before transplanting into open soil, the delphinium can throw out the peduncle. It must be removed.

Plant propagation

It is easy to propagate delphinium; even a novice gardener can do this process.

Reproduction methods

There are several methods of propagation - growing delphinium from seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush. The simplest is propagation by seeds, the most labor-intensive is by cuttings.

Propagation of delphinium by seeds

Different varieties can be planted from seeds available in flower shops. You can also collect seeds from the plant.

After collecting or after purchasing (it is better to buy them in the fall), the seeds must be kept for several months in a cool place, preferably in the refrigerator.

They can be planted in March. To do this, prepare a container with a mixture of humus, fertile soil and sand. The soil needs to be moistened and furrows made on it. Delphinium seeds are very small, so they do not need to be buried in the soil. You can simply scatter their grooves and sprinkle a few millimeters of earth on top.

After a month, the seedlings are thinned out to a distance of about 8 centimeters from each other.

Plants are planted in open ground in May.

Important! Propagation of double varieties by seeds will not produce maternal characteristics in new plants.

At the end of April, when the bushes have grown 15 centimeters after winter, they are dug up and divided into several parts with 2-3 shoots each.

Delphinium propagation by cuttings

Despite the labor-intensive process, this method is very effective; it allows you to preserve the mother plant itself and its species characteristics.

It is better to propagate delphinium by cuttings taken from young plants. To do this in the spring, when the stems have grown a little (up to about 15 centimeters), you need to cut the cuttings at the very root. For quick rooting, you can treat them with growth stimulants.

The cuttings are planted in loose, fertile soil in a container that can be placed in a greenhouse. If planting is done directly into the garden bed, it is better to cover the cuttings with jars. In this case, the plants need to be ventilated regularly.

Cuttings need light shade and watering. After 14 days they need to be fed with complex fertilizers.

Rooting of cuttings occurs by the end of summer, then they can be planted in a permanent place.

Flowering plant

The flowering time of delphinium depends on the region where it is bred. In warm regions it blooms as early as May and can produce a second bloom towards the end of summer. In the temperate zone, flowering begins in June and continues into July.

Delphinium blooms with very beautiful flowers, mostly in blue and light blue shades. Some varieties are red, pink or white. The flowers are simple, double or semi-double, forming long, dense inflorescences.

Problems, diseases and pests of a flower

Delphiniums can be affected by fungal diseases:

• Powdery mildew. The sign is the appearance of a gray coating on the leaves. If left untreated, the leaves turn brown and die. Prevention - avoid getting water on the leaves or trunk when watering. Treat with 1% lime sulphide.
• Downy mildew. The sign is the appearance of yellow spots on the upper leaves and a gray coating on the lower part of the leaf in the same place. First of all, it is necessary to thin out the bush and then treat it with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
• Root collar rot. The sign is yellowing of the leaves and the formation of fungal mycelium in the root zone. The plant is easily pulled out of the ground, as its root system will die. It is treated with a formaldehyde solution - spraying and disinfecting the soil.

Viral infections:

• Aster jaundice. Signs: leaves turn yellow and flowers take on a greenish tint. First of all, it is necessary to destroy aphids as carriers of infection. Sick plants are destroyed; the rest need careful loosening of the soil.
• Ring spot or mosaic. Signs are the formation of yellow or brown spots on the leaves, drying and falling of the leaves. Slow growth. It cannot be treated and the plant is destroyed.

Pests:

• Delphinium fly. Lays larvae in buds. They eat the flower from the inside, so it quickly crumbles and does not produce seeds. Spraying with hexachlorane is necessary during the formation of buds
• Slugs. They eat leaves. Thorough loosening of the soil and weeding are necessary.

Popular types (varieties)

Princess Caroline

• A very beautiful variety with pink double flowers, growing up to 2 meters in height. Large flowers can reach 10 centimeters in diameter.

Pink butterfly

Delicate, butterfly-like pink flowers and short bush growth (no more than 1 meter) make this variety especially popular in landscape design.

Snow lace

An unusually spectacular delphinium variety with snow-white flowers with a dark eye. This variety has a very pleasant aroma during flowering.

Delphinium terry

It is distinguished by long and lush flowering from May to August. The flowers have a wide variety of shades. Although in some places you can even find delphiniums of black, red and yellow color.

Delphinium is not an easy flower to care for, but you can avoid mistakes in growing it by following a few tips:

• Delphiniums respond very well to organic fertilizers, in particular manure. It can be scattered under bushes in spring and autumn;
• The plant needs constant weeding from weeds and loosening of the soil;
• To prevent fungal diseases of delphinium, it is good to sprinkle the leaves with ash;
• It is best to collect seeds in dry, warm weather from slightly unripe, brown-colored capsules.

Answers to readers' questions

• Plant lifespan

The delphinium grows well in one place for the first 4-6 years. Then it must be replanted.

• Why does delphinium grow poorly?

Perhaps a dimly lit place in the garden has been chosen. The plant should be inspected for diseases or pests that are slowing down the plant's growth. There may be other errors in care that can only be determined experimentally.

• Why do the leaves turn yellow (dry)?

Leaves may turn yellow and dry due to diseases.

Since ancient times, back in Ancient Greece, a talented sculptor made an excellent statue of his deceased lover and brought life into her. But the gods were angry with him for this and made him a dolphin. The girl he created cried a lot for him on the coast and somehow a beautiful dolphin swam up to her and laid a delightful flower at her feet, which was later called delphinium.

This plant belongs to the ranunculaceae family. There are approximately 400 different species. It can be either an annual or a perennial flower. Flower colors can be varied, including white, blue or purple, etc. The inflorescences are collected on a large peduncle and always delight with their beauty. Sometimes inside the flowers you can find small petals that differ in color from the sepals. They look like “eyes” that have opened, looking in surprise at the world around them. They are called staminodes and are used to attract pollinating insects. This property is observed only in the simplest varieties.

delphinium flower loves ultraviolet rays, but it must be protected from the influence of wind. On very hot days it can burn, so it is advisable to plant it in places where there is shade for at least two or three hours during the day. Basically, all types of delphinium have a branched root structure, which is easy to position in a horizontal position. Every year, young pagons take root, from which new plants grow.

In the south of Russia it blooms somewhere in May or June, then it can bloom again in the fall. A little further north, flowering is possible from June 15 to July 31, and also in the fall, and it will bloom again only when you cut off all the flower stalks after its initial flowering. Delphinium is a fairly winter-hardy and hardy plant, as it can withstand temperatures down to minus 40 C. Thaws are not safe for it, because the rhizomes are close to the earth's crust and can crawl out. Therefore, it is recommended not to plant the flower in places where the snow will melt first in the spring.

Delphinium perennial, description and characteristics of the best varieties

There are different types of delphinium. At first, only two types of perennial delphinium were bred - large-flowered delphinium and tall delphinium. But then hybrids appeared, and now there are plenty of them and each of them belongs to one of five categories:

1. Belladonna is a representative of the “drooping inflorescence (panicle).
2. Elatum stands out for its excellent variety of different shades.
3. Pacific hybrids are tall plants up to 2 m with dense semi-double inflorescences.
4. Marfin hybrids reach up to 2 m in height, are very strong and have delicate semi-double flowers.

The most striking of all delphinium varieties are:

1. Princess Caroline is the most attractive delphinium. It grows up to 2 m in height, and flowers up to 10 cm in diameter. Has a lovely pink color.
2. Snow lace is an excellent delphinium. It grows up to 1.5 m. It has an unusual white color and a luxurious appearance.
3. Pink butterfly is a low bush up to 1 m. It has bright flowers that resemble a butterfly. Excellently popular among landscape design.

Delphinium propagation

Delphinium can be propagated by cuttings, dividing the bush or planting seeds.

Cutting the bush along the root system You can practice in the spring and you need to take plants for this. who are at least three years old. To do this, dig up bushes not exceeding 15 cm and carefully divide them into several parts so that each of them has 1-2 buds. It is best to sprinkle the cut areas with activated carbon. The roots are cleared of soil, damaged ones are cut off and washed in water.

Then the already divided small bushes are planted into the soil with a nutrient mixture, which includes sand, humus, peat, etc. They are then placed in a warm place, and after a couple of weeks they are planted in open ground. It is adopted very quickly to such an extent that a recently planted bush can already bloom, but for further full growth it is better to prune the inflorescences.

Cuttings are also planted in the spring. For planting, shoots from 10 to 14 cm are cut in such a way as to capture a little root about two or three centimeters in size. The cut cuttings are planted in the ground in a shaded place and after a couple of weeks they are transplanted permanently. They can be rooted around the house by placing them in boxes or pots. They need to be misted for at least three days and watered regularly.

Delphinium is also planted with seeds in the spring. They are processed in advance and kept in the cold, so to speak, undergo stratification. You need to collect the seeds in the fall and place them in the refrigerator, and then sow them in March. For planting, the soil is prepared by filling it with a nutrient mixture of humus, sand and black soil. Then make small depressions (0.3-0.5 cm) between which a distance of 6-7 cm should be maintained and seeds are sown in them. then they are covered with soil and moistened with a sprayer. A month later, the seedlings are thinned out so that there is 6-7 cm between the sprouts. In May, the young plants are planted in open ground.

Delphinium perennial: planting and care

Delphinium needs slightly acidic or neutral soil, and most importantly, it feels good in loose soil, which is fertilized with peat, humus (compost), providing maximum care for the soil. If your soil has low acidity, then you can add up to 0.15 kg of slaked lime per square meter.

In the fall, the soil is fertilized and the soil is dug up along with fertilizers (for example, 7 kg of nutrient mixture per 1 square meter). It is necessary to dig again and add fertilizers again, such as potassium salt in the amount of 60 g, ammonium sulfate up to 40 g and superphosphate 70 g per square meter. Due to the fact that the soil is fertilized, these plants will be well accepted and develop, and in the future they do not need much care.

They are planted in holes, the depth of which is approximately 40-50 cm, and the distance between them depends on the size of the plant itself. When planting, fertilizers are also applied in equal parts with the soil. First, the hole is filled halfway, and after 2-3 days, when the soil and fertilizing settle, young plants are planted.

Two years after planting, thanks to high-quality care, the delphinium exhibits the highest qualities, namely, it grows strongly and blooms luxuriantly. It is necessary to thin it out to ensure good and full growth, removing shoots growing in the middle. When the delphinium reaches a height of 50-70 cm, it must be tied up so that its fragile stems do not break in strong windy weather.

In general, the delphinium flower loves moisture very much, but you shouldn’t overdo it either. In the fall, when it fades, you need to prune it, leaving shoots of 20 or 25 centimeters, which will protect the rhizomes from rotting in the spring during the thaw and ensure normal care for it.

Pest and disease control

Name of pest or disease	General signs	Fighting methods
Fungal diseases
1. Powdery mildew	It is characterized by the appearance of a white coating on the leaves. At the next stage of the disease, the leaves turn brown and die	Spray with 1% solution of gas sulfur or 1-2% lime sulphide
2. Downy mildew	There are yellow oil stains on the surface of the leaves, and a white coating on the back side	It is necessary to thin out the plant and spray with Bordeaux mixture
3. Root rot	Yellow leaves. There may be mycelium or other fungus at the base of the root. The plant withers and is easily pulled out of the ground	Drainage and loosening of the soil is recommended. Sterilize with 2% formaldehyde (15 liters per 1 square meter). You can spray with 0.5% formaldehyde
Bacterial diseases
1. Erwinia (withering)	The lower leaves turn yellow. The root has brown or black spots and is soft. The stems turn black.	Water with a 0.5% solution of formalin or sublimate. seeds are treated with hot water up to +50 C
2. Black spots on leaves	Spots of irregular shape, first cover all the leaves, and then the stem	Sprayed in early spring with a 0.5% solution of mercuric chloride, and then with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. You can pollinate with 0.2% plantasol
Viral diseases
1. Jaundice	Greening of flowers, dwarfism, irregularly shaped inflorescences, yellow leaves	Control of aphids and weeds, removal of diseased shoots
2. Mosaic and ring spot	The leaves have ring-shaped yellow patterns that can reach up to 1 cm in diameter.	Remove painful shoots and follow growing rules
3. Fly	In May-June it lays eggs in buds. Its larvae eat up the stamens, pistils, petals and, as a result, the flowers quickly crumble and do not produce seeds.	Pollinate plants at the moment of setting buds with hexchlorane
4. Slugs	They eat the leaves of the young	Loosen the soil, remove weeds, sprinkle with potassium salt or superphosphate

Delphinium is one of the most beloved and desired garden plants. Slender, with bright emerald leaves, impressive with flowering columns and pleasing to the eye. It is distinguished by its height, slenderness and splendor. Known to people since ancient times.

According to one legend, the gods turned a gifted young sculptor into a dolphin just because he revived the sculpture of a deceased girl with whom he was in love. Every evening the dolphin swam to the shore with a bouquet in its mouth, and in memory of his love, he threw this flower at the girl’s feet.

The second myth tells about the battle under the walls of Troy. The arrow that hit Achilles' heel wounded him. Falling drops of blood gave life to these magnificent flowers. According to Russian belief, they have healing properties and help quickly heal bones during fractures and injuries. Most peoples called delphinium spur because the upper petal of its bud looks like a spur.

And now many admire the mesmerizing spectacle of blooming delphiniums, which from a distance resemble multi-colored stelae soaring upward. The genus delphinium, spur, or Larkspur unites about 400 species of herbaceous annuals and perennials, forming massive terminal clusters or paniculate inflorescences, which are valued for their long flowering.

Description of delphinium

Delphinium photo of flowers in a flower bed

Wild delphinium lives in all corners of the world and belongs to the ranunculaceae family. Elegant, branched, hollow inside stems reach a height of 2 m. The leaves are rounded, palmately dissected. The color of the buds is ultramarine, blue, violet, pink, lilac, white. Simple flowers consist of five petals, and in double flowers their number is increased due to modified stamens. The unopened bud of delphinium looks like the head or body of a dolphin - hence its name.

Blooms in June and again, with proper care, in August. All varieties and hybrids of delphinium are used as high-quality cut crops - they last a long time in a vase. This luxurious flower will decorate any flower garden.

Growing delphinium in open ground

Delphinium prefers open areas, but in bright sun the petals may fade. Light midday shade is only good for him. Its location near the walls of buildings and fences will protect it from lodging in the wind and will protect it from scorching rays.

These plants require fertilized soil, rich in organic matter, moisture-permeable soil, and painstaking care. In damp places, drainage is arranged from expanded clay or grooves are made to drain excess moisture. Prefers loamy, loose soils with a neutral reaction. It is grown in one place for several years.

Plant in a sunny area or light shade. When preparing the soil for planting, organic and mineral fertilizers (phosphorus-potassium) are applied. During the entire period, water abundantly and periodically feed. The soil is constantly loosened and mulched with peat or compost, which helps retain moisture and serves as additional nutrition.

In spring, the weakest shoots are cut off and used for cuttings. They stimulate the formation of new flowers by regularly removing fading inflorescences. Tall plants require reliable support, since the stems easily break even with a slight wind. In autumn, perennial species are pruned at the root and hilled up so that water does not get inside the hollow stems, as this can lead to the death of the plant. If pruning is done in the spring, simply break the stems to close the cavity inside.

Reproduction of delphinium by dividing the bush

The most reliable and productive way is to divide adult bushes. This is done during a planned transplant in the spring before the start of the growing season. The dug out root is cut into pieces, each of which has a growing point and a root. The sections are dried and sprinkled with ash. Place them at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other in pre-prepared holes.

You can divide the plant without digging after sprouts appear or after flowering. To do this, the shovel is driven into the location of the desired cut until it stops. The part that they want to plant is dug around the circumference, carefully pulled out and transferred to the desired area. Add fresh nutrient soil to the vacant space. Water everything thoroughly and shade until they take root.

Growing delphinium from seeds for seedlings and sowing in the ground

Delphinium seeds photo How to sow delphinium

Annuals and biennials are propagated by sowing seeds in autumn and spring. Seeds quickly lose their viability - when purchasing, you should pay attention to the timing - the closer to the deadline, the less chance of getting seedlings. To stimulate germination, you can treat the seeds with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (1 teaspoon per 100 ml of water) for 30 minutes.

Sowing seedlings

How to grow delphinium from seeds Photo of seedlings

When to sow delphinium? At the end of March - beginning of April, seedling boxes, containers or individual cups are prepared. The seeds are large enough that you can plant them one at a time without any problems.

• Prepare nutritious loose soil; a soil mixture is perfect for flowering plants.
• Containers or cups must have drainage holes.
• Seed placement depth is 0.5-1 cm.
• The distance between seeds is at least 2-3 cm when sowing in a common container.
• Moisturize moderately, using a spray bottle so that there is no excess moisture.
• Cover with film and ventilate daily, removing condensation.
• When shoots appear, it is better to remove the film.
• When 2-3 true leaves appear, plants are planted in separate cups.
• Seedlings need to be hardened off a couple of weeks before planting in the ground. Take her out into the fresh air and let her get used to the sun and wind. When she can spend the night, the plants are ready to plant.

It is necessary to replant into a flowerbed when the temperature has already established above zero in order to avoid freezing by night frosts. The distance between the bushes is left 30-40 cm so that the plants develop well.

Sowing in the ground

Seeds are sown at the end of March - beginning of April in a greenhouse to obtain flowering specimens already in the year of sowing or in May in open ground. You can sow them before winter or in winter in boxes that are buried under the snow to obtain friendly shoots in the spring. Seedlings sprout at the stage of 2-4 leaves and are regularly watered and fed.

Plants of most varieties (if they are hybrids) grown from seeds may not convey the decorative qualities of the parent individuals, so the seed method is rarely used. But with this method you can get several colors of different qualities at once. Most hybrids are propagated by cuttings taken from the lower part of the flowering stem in early spring.

Delphinium cuttings photo

Young shoots about 10 cm long are cut. The lower sections are treated with a root formation stimulator. For this purpose, you can use ordinary agave. The bottom leaf is torn off from an adult plant and placed in the refrigerator for 5 days. After this, a few drops of juice are squeezed out of it and the lower parts of the cuttings are moistened with it, which are then placed in containers with well-moistened sand or vermiculite. You can use Kornevin and similar drugs.

The containers are covered with transparent lids or placed in a plastic bag to maintain sufficient humidity. The appearance of young leaves indicates successful rooting. Grown seedlings are transferred to a permanent place at the end of summer to give them the opportunity to finally take root before the onset of cold weather. Typically, delphiniums tolerate midland winters well; only young seedlings require shelter from dry peat, moss or sawdust.

Pests and diseases of delphinium

Delphinium is a rather delicate plant, susceptible to attack by leaf-eating insects. Some diseases cause yellowing and deformation of leaves. Among the diseases, powdery mildew and some rots are dangerous; to limit the spread of diseases, they resort to soil disinfection using a solution of potassium permanganate.

Infection with fusarium and bacterial diseases that cause cancer and rot leads to wilting of plants. When they appear, treat the plants with special fungicides. Aphids sucking plant sap contribute to the spread of viral diseases. Thrips provoke the formation of silvery spots on leaves and flowers.

Damage is also caused by coleopterous cutworms, which are eliminated with the help of special insecticides. As a preventive measure against insects and diseases, ammonia is used (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) or tar water (1 tablespoon of pharmaceutical birch tar is stirred in 5 liters of water, a little laundry soap is added to this mixture), solutions of which are watered on the plants themselves. and the land around.

These products repel many insects, and ammonia also serves as an excellent additional foliar feeding. Because of its toxicity, delphinium was almost never used as a medicine in ancient times; only in the Middle Ages did doctors use its tincture to heal wounds. In magic it was used to protect against love spells or as a talisman.

A dried blue delphinium flower was worn in a small bag or amulet around the neck, protecting it from prying eyes. It was believed that such a talisman served as protection against nightmares and insomnia. All varieties of delphinium are ideal for cutting. This is a very impressive plant, used for planting in groups, in flowerbeds, ridges, mixborders and in single plantings against the background of a lawn or buildings. And as a tapeworm plant it is excellent.

Types of delphinium with photos and descriptions

New Zealand delphiniums in garden design photo

Numerous hybrids are divided into three large groups: ‘belladonna’, ‘pacific’, ‘erect’. The latter includes most of the perennial plants grown in our gardens. They have delightful compact inflorescences of single, semi-double or double flowers.

Delphinium belladonna

Delphinium belladonna photo of flowers in the garden

Delphinium belladonna reaches a height of 0.9-1.2 m. The erect perennial has beautiful spike-shaped flowers. It has loose, branching inflorescences, grows quickly and blooms for a long time.

Delphinium tall Delphinium elatum

Delphinium tall Delphinium elatum photo of flowers in the garden

A perennial, stable specimen, 70 cm high, with deeply dissected leaves and azure buds.

Delphinium consolida

Field delphinium Delphinium consolida photo of flowers in a flower bed

An annual plant up to 2 m high.

Delphinium grandiflorum

Delphinium grandiflorum photo of flowers in the garden

Herbaceous plant with shortened rhizome up to 100 cm tall.

Delphinium hybrids

Delphinium Pacific giants Delphinium Pacific Giants photo of flowers in the garden

Hybrids of the ‘Pacific’ group (Pacific) include numerous annuals and biennials. The most common flower crop is the hybrid delphinium, obtained by crossing different species with each other. Modern varieties differ in shape, size of leaves and flowers, as well as bush height. Pacific hybrids are less adapted to cold winters and require more careful care. Even in much warmer Europe they are grown as biennials.

Delphinium New Zealand in landscape design photo flowers

New Zealand hybrids are characterized by excellent frost resistance, ease of care and long flowering - this is an excellent option for decorating a suburban area.

Delphinium hybrid Marfinica photo of flowers in the garden

Marfin hybrids are very popular among flower growers, because they are perfectly adapted to the realities of our weather. In terms of quality and decorative indicators, they are not inferior to foreign varieties. They form neat bushes that produce large panicles of columnar-shaped inflorescences with semi-double flowers of various colors; they attract attention from afar with their splendor.

Delphinium is a poisonous plant

Delphinium planting and care in open ground Photo in a flower bed

All parts of the plant are poisonous because they contain an alkaloid that is widely used in medicine. If ingested, they can cause serious gastrointestinal upset. And contact with leaves, especially in persons with particularly sensitive skin, causes skin irritation and allergic dermatitis. Therefore, when working with delphinium, it is necessary to protect your hands and bare parts of the body from getting juice.

Delphinium (larkspur, spur) is a popular flower crop of the Ranunculaceae family.

Thanks to its spectacular bright inflorescences, delphinium looks good as a background plant in group flower plantings.

In addition to its beauty, spur is very unpretentious in care, drought- and frost-resistant, and re-blooms after trimming faded inflorescences.

Delphinium perennial: choosing a location, planting methods

How to choose a place to plant delphinium?

The place for planting the delphinium should be well lit, but shaded from direct sunlight at midday. In an area unprotected from the sun, delphinium flowers will turn pale and lose their decorative effect. Due to the fact that tall shoots of delphinium can be easily damaged by strong winds (they easily break off at the base), choose a place for planting that is less windy and open: under the canopy of trees or next to bushes, a fence, or the wall of a house.

Larkspur grows well in loose, fertilized soils. On light sandy loams, flowering will be paler and less abundant. In heavy clay areas it is necessary to add sand and humus. Acidic, waterlogged soils are not suitable for growing delphinium.

Methods for planting delphinium

The simplest ways to plant delphinium are to plant divisions and cuttings.

Growing delphinium from seeds is a more labor-intensive process, because... During long-term storage, seeds lose their viability. This explains the low or even zero results when sowing purchased seeds. It is safer to use seed material from your own collection. However, we must remember that plants grown from seeds often do not retain the varietal characteristics of the mother plant (especially with regard to color and terry).

Planting seeds in open ground

Seeds are sown in open ground in May or September (under film). To do this, make small grooves in the prepared soil in the garden bed and sow the seeds, sprinkling them with a thin (no more than 5 mm) layer of sand or earth. If planting was done in the fall, the seeds will undergo natural stratification and the germination rate will be higher. Shoots appear in 3-4 weeks.

Planting seeds for seedlings

Under indoor conditions, seeds are sown for seedlings in March. The soil for this purpose is loose and nutritious. After distributing the seeds on it, they are sprinkled with a 3 mm layer of earth and compacted so that they do not float up during the first watering. It is necessary to water carefully, preferably through a strainer.

After this, the bowl with the plantings is covered with a dark film or other covering material, because delphinium seeds germinate better in the dark.

Delphinium crops must be covered with light-proof material

The optimal temperature for germination is +10-15C. To speed up the emergence of seedlings, you can carry out stratification (exposure to cold): a container with seeds is placed in a refrigerator or balcony for a week at a temperature of +5C. After this, it is moved again to the windowsill. During this period, we must not forget to ventilate the crops, remove excess condensation from the film, and moisten the soil in a timely manner.

Shoots appear within 1-2 weeks. It is important not to miss this moment to remove the covering film. Picking is carried out when there are 1-2 true leaves. Seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June. These plants will bloom in August.

Planting rhizome cuttings

To propagate delphinium by rhizome, bushes 3-5 years old are used. Division is carried out in early spring before active growth begins or in late August-early September after the end of the first wave of flowering. The rhizomes are divided into parts so that each of them has at least one growth bud. The sections are dusted with charcoal powder.

Divided delphinium bush

In the selected area, dig holes 50x40 cm. The excavated soil is mixed with humus and peat, and poured back. 50g of mineral fertilizers and a handful of wood ash are added to each hole. When planting, the root collar is left at ground level. After this, the plants are watered, weeds are regularly weeded and the ground is loosened. The distance between bushes is planned based on the variety and type:

50-60 cm – for tall hybrids (height more than 1.5 m);

40-50 cm – for medium-sized people (1.2-1.5 m);

30-40 cm – for short people (0.8-1.2 m).

Planting cuttings

For cuttings, young shoots that have reached 10-15 cm in height are used. In the spring, the cuttings are broken out along with the “heel” at the base of the plant and rooted in a mini-greenhouse at a temperature of +25C and bright, diffused lighting. After the cuttings have taken root (about 3-4 weeks), they are planted in open ground.

Delphinium perennial: care

Delphinium is unpretentious in care and cultivation. Caring for it consists of watering, weeding, early thinning, fertilizing and tying up.

Watering

Delphinium is quite drought-resistant and does not like excess moisture, but during the formation of inflorescences it must be watered abundantly so that not only the upper, but also the deeper layers of the soil are saturated with moisture. Here we must follow the rule: quality is better than quantity. It happens that with abundant watering and intense heat, bald (without flowers) areas may appear in the inflorescences. The use of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers during the budding period will help to minimize such manifestations.

Thinning and pruning

In the second year of the growing season, the delphinium produces a lot of shoots, therefore, in order for it to bloom profusely with large flowers, it is necessary to thin out the bush of the plant. This is done in the spring when the stems reach 20-40 cm. 5-10 (depending on the variety) strong shoots are left in the bush. For better air circulation, first remove unproductive stems in the inner part of the bush.

Instead of such thinning, you can cut off excess growth buds in the fall. As a result of this procedure, nutrition in the spring will flow to the remaining buds, which will develop at an accelerated pace. If the shoots are removed with the heel (a piece of rhizome), then they can be used as cuttings for propagating larkspur.

In order not to stimulate the growth of new shoots this year and thereby not weaken the plant before wintering, in the summer the inflorescences on the shoots are cut off as they fade. In the fall, after the plant has flowered and its leaves have dried, the stems are cut off completely at a height of 30 cm from the ground. If you cut them shorter, the likelihood of root rot increases - delphinium stems have a hollow structure and after pruning in the spring, melt water easily flows down them to the rhizome. To prevent this, experienced gardeners cover the top of the cut with clay.

Garter

Delphinium has its own Achilles heel - this is the junction of the stem and rhizome, which easily breaks in strong winds. Therefore, as the bush grows, it is tied up in 2 places: at a height of 0.4-0.5 m and 1-1.2 m. Varieties with heavy inflorescences are also tied in the middle part (0.7-0.8 m).

Rings on racks work well as support.

Wintering

Delphiniums easily endure winter, withstanding frosts down to –40°C under the snow. Alternating thaws and frosts have a detrimental effect on this crop - its root system is located close to the surface of the earth and easily rots out. In the absence of snow cover, delphinium bushes can be covered with spruce branches.

Delphinium perennial: feeding

During the entire growing season, delphiniums are fed three times.

The first feeding is carried out in early spring, when the shoots have reached 15-20 cm in height: per 1 sq.m. you will need 10-15g of ammonium nitrate, 20-30g of potassium chloride and 30-40g of ammonium sulfate. Fertilizers are mixed and scattered around the delphinium bushes. Instead of these fertilizers, you can use mullein infusion (1:10) as a source of nitrogen - 1 bucket for 5 adult bushes. When forming buds, plants need potassium, but the nitrogen content should be reduced.

During the second feeding per 1 sq. m of soil, the dose of superphosphate and potassium is doubled compared to the first application. For the third time (at the end or after flowering), only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers with microelements without nitrogen are applied to the spur bushes.

Delphinium perennial: pests and diseases

Delphiniums are especially strongly affected by various diseases under unfavorable weather conditions: prolonged rains, prolonged drought. Therefore, the fight against pests and pathogens begins at the first signs of their appearance.

The palm in terms of prevalence is taken by powdery mildew. It progresses rapidly at high humidity and low air temperatures. Its signs are a powdery whitish coating on the leaves, which subsequently turns brown. To combat this disease, plants are sprayed with fungicidal preparations (copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur, Fundazol, ProfitGold, Topaz, Fitosporin-M).

Another common disease of fungal etiology is ramulariasis. It is characterized by the appearance of a large number of brown spots on the leaves of the delphinium.

Manifestation of ramularia on delphinium leaves

With further development of the disease, the spots become light gray with a dark rim along the edges and merge, forming extensive necrotic areas on the foliage. As a result, the leaves die prematurely and the plant is depressed. The spores of the pathogen overwinter on plant debris, so they must be collected and burned.

If various black spots appear on the spur bushes, then these are signs of a bacterial disease - black spot. The spots form first on the lower tiers of leaves, gradually “rising” up the plant. The stems of the larkspur turn brown and dry out.

Black spotting on the lower leaves of delphinium

Early treatment will help save the plant. It is sprayed three times with copper-containing preparations: Oxychom, Bordeaux mixture, Previkur, Fundazol, Topaz. Between treatments, the ground under the bushes can be shed with a solution of Fitosporin-M, and the above-ground part of the plant with Baikal-M.

Of the viral diseases on delphinium, it is often found ring spot, which looks like yellowish spots in the shape of irregular rings. Leaves become chlorotic.

Delphinium leaf affected by ringspot

This disease cannot be treated, so the diseased plant is removed and burned. The carrier of ringspot is aphids. To combat it, insecticides are used (Iskra, Fitoverm, Inta-vir, karbofos, biotlin, etc.).

Another malicious pest of this crop is delphinium fly, which lays eggs in buds. After hatching, the larvae damage the flowers by feeding on the stamens and pistils. Damaged flowers fall off prematurely and do not bear fruit.

Seedlings and succulent young shoots of delphinium are severely damaged slugs and snails. To combat them, traps are used, mechanical barriers are arranged around the beds, and granular metaldehyde is used as a chemical.

source

Delphinium, also known as spur or larkspur, is especially loved by gardeners - it is one of the few herbaceous plants for open ground, the flowers of which are naturally colored in various shades of blue.

Planting and caring for perennial delphinium requires increased attention, careful preparation and consistency. Difficulties can be overcome if you use the proposed instructions and advice.

Preparing to plant delphinium in open ground

Spur is considered a capricious flower, the success of growing which depends on correctly carried out preparatory measures.

Landing dates

Plants can be planted/transplanted in spring (April-May) or autumn (from late August to mid-September).

Growing delphinium from seedlings is the most optimal method, suitable for any region. Sowing of seeds is carried out two months before the intended movement of young plants to flower beds. So, for the middle zone the best time is mid-March, in the southern regions - the second half of February, Siberia and the Urals - early April.

Gardeners in the south do not bother with germinating seedlings, sowing seeds directly into open ground. The first half of April or from the second half of September to mid-October is considered a suitable time for sowing.

Choosing a location on the site

If you choose the right place where it is best to plant the delphinium, the handsome openwork will show itself in all its glory:

1. Good lighting. It is better to plant where the sun shines in the morning and late afternoon, and where there is shade at midday. Delphinium tolerates heat well, but the flowers of brightly colored varieties fade under the sun and lose their attractiveness and decorativeness.
2. Wind protection. Most varieties are tall, the hollow stems of these plants easily break under gusts of wind. However, almost all garden flowers do not like drafty places.
3. No moisture stagnation. Rain or melt water that is not absorbed into the soil for a long time contributes to rotting of the roots.
4. Soil preparation
5. The ideal soil for larkspur is moderately moist loam or sandy loam, rich in organic matter, neutral or slightly acidic.

Soil preparation

Clay areas are corrected: sand take 1-2 buckets/sq.m, mineral complexes - 50-80 g/sq.m, compost or humus - 20-25 kg/sq.m.

Depleted soils are enriched per square: minerals - 40-50 g; organic - 10-15 kg.

The acidic soil is limed, and granulated sulfur (30-50 g/sq.m.) is added to the alkaline soil.

• dig up the soil using the bayonet of a shovel;
• lay out a 20-centimeter layer of drainage;
• mix the excavated soil with rotted compost (1 bucket), ash (2 cups), bone meal (1 cup) and superphosphate (2 tbsp) per 1 sq.m.

The flowerbed turns out to be elevated, which the delphiniums like.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Spurs are planted by seeds or vegetatively, that is, by cuttings or “divisions” of the rhizome. The vegetative method definitely produces pure-quality offspring. It is better to buy seeds for sowing from well-known manufacturers: agricultural companies “Aelita”, “Gavrish”, “SeDek”, “Poisk”, etc.

Cuttings and “divisions” are taken from 2-3-year-old queen cells.

Seed preparation algorithm:

1. Disinfection in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, Maxim or Fitosporin preparations for 20 minutes.
2. The treated seeds are washed with running water.
3. Then soak in water for a day with the addition of a few drops of Zircon or Epin. The drugs can be replaced with folk remedies - aloe, honey.
4. The soaked seeds, wrapped in a damp cloth, are placed in a container and put away for stratification (i.e., in the refrigerator). The napkin in which the seeds are wrapped must remain moist, but not “float” in the water, otherwise the seeds will suffocate and die.
5. Stratification continues until the seeds hatch. Then the bundle is moved to a well-lit windowsill and kept under a phytolamp for several days.
6. Then the material is sown in seedling containers or in open ground.

Another method for preparing seeds: after disinfection, they are wrapped in a damp cloth, packed in a plastic bag and buried in the area for a couple of weeks. The method is applicable at low (around 0°C) temperatures.

Landing technique

Successful germination of seeds and further care of seedlings completely depend on the accuracy of the technology.

Sowing seedlings

To please the capricious “king of the flower garden” with vigorous flowering from the first year, follow the following instructions sequentially:

1. Determine the timing of sowing. They begin to sow in February if there is equipment for additional illumination of the seedlings, otherwise wait for an increase in the length of daylight hours.
2. Pre-sowing seed treatment is carried out.
3. Select containers for sowing. Quickly decomposing individual pots where one seed is sown is not the best option. The root system of the seedling does not immediately absorb the soil, which can lead to souring. It is optimal to sow in shallow seedling containers with drainage holes.
4. On a note! A good option is disposable food packaging. If it has already been used, it must be disinfected.
5. Prepare the substrate. Purchased soil is suitable: universal for seedlings or succulents. Mix peat, vegetable or garden soil, humus or compost, sand (2:4:2:1) yourself. The mixture is sifted, perlite is added (1 cup/10 liters of soil mixture).
6. Disinfect the soil by heating it in the oven for an hour. Purchased soil is shed with a solution of “Fitosporin” or “Fitolavina”.
7. Fill the containers with the prepared substrate, tamping it lightly.
8. The seeds are laid out on the surface, without deepening or pressing down.
9. Sprinkle with a thin layer of soil mixture or vermiculite.
10. Cover with a lid or cover with cling film.
11. The container with the crops is placed in a cool, dark place.

Spur shoots appear by the middle of the 2nd week. Gardeners advise checking the crops daily from 6-7 days in order to immediately transfer the seedlings to a warmer place. The film or cover can be removed.

Seedlings are grown under the following conditions:

• moist soil;
• daylight hours 12-14 hours;
• temperature regime 18-20°C.

Seedlings dive at the stage of two true leaves. Place the sprouts in separate small glasses. The substrate is taken as for germination, adding to it a complete mineral complex of 2 tbsp/10 l of substrate.

After picking, the temperature and light conditions do not change. The first watering of seedlings is carried out after a week, if during the transplanting process the soil was abundantly moistened.

Before planting in the flower bed, the seedlings are fed with complex mineral fertilizers (Agricola, Fertika Plus, etc.) every two weeks.

Attention! Root feeding; if the solution gets on the leaves, it should be washed off immediately with water.

Sowing in the ground

Direct sowing of spur grass seeds is carried out from the second half of April. For this purpose, a special garden bed is being prepared:

• the soil is dug up to a depth of about 30 cm;
• apply complex fertilizers;
• make shallow grooves, about one and a half centimeters;
• pour plenty of water;
• seeds are laid out in the grooves;
• sprinkle with dry substrate.

In order for the seeds to germinate faster and more easily, the crops are covered with agrofibre or a black (dark) film. The crops are periodically moistened, preventing the soil from drying out. The cover is removed after germination - at 3-4 weeks. During the first season, the seedlings are watered moderately, fed twice a month, the soil is loosened and weeds are removed. In the winter, the garden bed is covered with spruce branches so that the young plants do not freeze. In the spring of the second year, the young shoots of the spur are transplanted to a prepared permanent place.

Caring for delphinium in open ground

Activities related to plant care are not difficult, the main rule is regularity.

Watering

During the growing season, one plant needs 65 liters of water. When there is little rainfall in the summer, 2-3 buckets of water are poured weekly under each bush. More frequent, but less abundant watering is required at the stage of inflorescence formation. If there is a lack of moisture, some of the buds do not develop properly, and empty spaces appear in the inflorescence.

Note! Water the delphinium strictly at the root; surface watering does not benefit the plant. It is undesirable for water to get on the green parts of the plant - stems, leaves.

In late autumn, if there is little precipitation, water abundantly so that preparation for winter takes place without complications.

After each watering, when the soil dries, loosening is carried out.

Trimming

The first time pruning is done when the stems grow to 30 cm. The flower stalks are thinned out according to the following scheme: for plants blooming for the first time, 2 stems are left; adults – 4-5.

Side shoots of tapeworm plants are removed. They are left in delphiniums growing in mixed plantings.

Faded shoots are removed so that the plant does not waste energy on the formation and ripening of seeds.

Before winter, cut off the last flower stalks at a height of 30 cm.

Top dressing

During the season, fertilizing is applied twice:

• early spring - urea (2 tbsp), potassium sulfate (2 tbsp) and superphosphate (1 tbsp) per square;
• before flowering, 1 tbsp. l. potassium and phosphorus fertilizers per sq. m;

From August, feeding is stopped so as not to stimulate growth and continued flowering, but to allow the plant to lay flower buds for the next season.

To prevent the root system located close to the surface of the earth from getting burns from fertilizers, it is recommended to dig special grooves into which to pour the nutrient solution.

During budding, spur leaves are sprayed with a solution of boric acid (50 g/l).

Preparing for winter

Upon completion of flowering and the leaves drying, cut the stems at a level of 30-35 cm above ground level. The internal cavities of the shoots are covered with garden pitch or clay so that moisture does not get into them, penetrate to the roots and cause rotting.

Frost-resistant delphiniums do not need shelter for the winter; only young plants are covered. If weather forecasters promise frosts and little snow for the winter, it is advisable to cover the bases of delphinium bushes with spruce branches or straw.

Experienced flower growers also dig grooves around each plant before winter to drain rainwater in the fall and melt water in the spring.

Note! “When the stems grow to 60 cm tall, the plant needs to be tied up.

To do this, three pegs are driven into the ground around it and the flower stalks are fixed using a wide braid or tape.”

Reproduction methods

Like all herbaceous plants for open ground, delphinium can be grown from seeds, cuttings and “divisions” of rhizomes.

Reproduction of perennial delphinium by division

Dividing the rhizome of a mature spur is the simplest and therefore popular method. The age of the plant suitable for division is 3-4 years. Older or younger bushes tolerate the procedure less well.

The division is carried out:

• in spring, when fresh leaves begin to sprout;
• in the fall, when the seeds begin to ripen (and new foliage grows again).

The root is carefully removed from the soil, keeping as large an earthen lump as possible. They break it or cut it with a sharp instrument, leaving on each division a bunch of roots, one young shoot and one dormant bud. This is enough for the young plant to quickly grow green mass and prepare for flowering.

The “delenki” are seated in prepared places. They are carefully looked after until autumn and covered for the winter.

Propagation of perennial delphinium by seeds

A description of the process of growing spurs from seeds is given above. Let's add a few words about collecting and storing seeds.

Delphinium sets seeds easily, but of varying quality.

To minimize the loss of time and effort on germinating unpromising seeds, they resort to the following technique: 10-15 lower flowers are left in each inflorescence candle, the rest are cut off. To prevent ripe seeds (they must ripen while still standing) from scattering, the peduncle is wrapped in a single layer of thin cotton cloth or gauze. Ripe seeds are stored in glass jars or foil bags at low temperatures.

Self-collected seeds do not always inherit the varietal qualities of the parent plants; for those who like experiments and surprises, this serves as an additional incentive.

Propagation of delphinium by cuttings

For propagation, apical cuttings are taken. They are prepared in the spring by cutting out young 10-centimeter shoots. Separate from the mother bush at the very root collar with a piece of root tissue.

Larkspur cuttings are rooted in a substrate consisting of peat and sand in a 1:1 ratio. Deepen by 2 cm and cover with a transparent cap. Conditions for successful rooting: shade, temperature 20-25°C, high humidity. The process lasts about 5-6 weeks.

The cuttings are transplanted to a permanent place in the spring.

Note! “When growing delphiniums in groups, the distance between plants is maintained at least 30 cm.”

Diseases and pests

Black spot - black spots appear on the lower leaves, gradually rising up the stem. For treatment, spray with tetracycline solution (1 tablet/1 liter of water). Powdery mildew is a gray-white coating on the leaves that darkens to brown over time. Plants are treated with a solution of Fundazol, Topaz or other fungicides. Ramularia - leaves become covered with small spots, dry out, and fall off. Treated with antifungal agents. Ring spot is the appearance of yellow spots of irregular shape on the leaves. It is a viral disease and there is no reliable means of combating it. Plants are dug up and destroyed.

Phorbia (delphinium fly) lays eggs in unopened buds. A control measure is spraying with insecticides (Prometrin, Iskra) at the budding stage. Spider mites attack plants when the air is too dry. Prevention and destruction of pests - green soap, Fitoverm. Aphids - plants are treated from the first days of spring. In addition to ready-made insecticides, folk remedies are used: infusions of tobacco, garlic, and onion. Slugs are most dangerous for young seedlings. It is optimal to use traps or sprinkle the soil with dry mustard, eggshells, and hot pepper.

Remember! Most often, delphinium diseases are the result of violations of care rules or unfavorable weather conditions, such as: prolonged rains, high humidity, poor air circulation between plants.

Popular types of delphinium

More than 400 species of annual and perennial delphiniums are known. They differ in height, color and structure of the flower, and flowering period. Several species are loved by domestic gardeners.

Delphinium hybrids

A group of tall delphiniums - from 1 to 2 m and above. The rhizome is short, the stem is hollow, erect. Flowers of irregular shape - simple, semi-double and double - form a cluster-shaped inflorescence. The flowers are painted in various tones of blue, blue, lilac, violet, pink and white. Flowering in July, in the southern regions again - in September.

Preference is given to the varieties “blue lace”, “winter’s daughter”, “King Arthur”, “Pushkin”, “pink sunset”, “lilac spiral”.

On a note! The “black knight” variety is very impressive with large double flowers of a thick inky color.

Delphinium Belladonna

Graceful plants with loose panicle inflorescences. They begin to bloom in June, with the second wave occurring in mid-to-late August. The flowers are simple and semi-double, color from white to deep blue with all shades. They are considered ideal for beginners, since caring for this group of varieties is easier.

Prominent representatives of “Berghimmel”, “Casablanca”, “Lamartine”, “Piccolo”.

Delphinium grandiflorum

The standard height of the species is up to 80 cm. The stem is straight, branched. The color of the flowers is rich, blue, pink or white. The flowers are medium in size, the inflorescence is racemose. Blooms from the second half of July.

The favorite varieties of delphinium grandiflorum among summer residents are “pink butterfly”, “blue butterfly”, “white butterfly”.

Delphinium field

An annual plant up to one and a half meters high. The flowers are simple, double and semi-double, in pink, blue, lilac and white shades. Blooms from June to September.

The following varieties have become widespread: FrostedSky, QisRose, QisDarkBlue.

Delphinium tall (DelphiniumElatum)

A tall (up to 180 cm) line of varieties with dense pyramidal inflorescences, the length of which reaches 40 cm. The flowers are often semi-double, large - about 8 cm. Flowering occurs in the second half of June - early June. Blooms again towards the end of summer.

The best varieties: “agenweid”, “finstearon”, Sungleam.

On a note! In addition to those listed, Pacific and New Zealand hybrids, distinguished by their variety of colors and tall stature, and hybrids of domestic selection - Marfinsky - are also popular.

Delphinium in landscape design

Slender, elegant delphiniums are used in the background of mixborders; next to decorative tall evergreen or early flowering shrubs; for decorating the walls of outbuildings and fences; to accent the center of the flowerbed; when decorating borders and ridges (low-growing species); on alpine slides (miniature varieties); as tapeworms in lawns or among ground covers.

When planted together, the spur plant looks impressive with phlox, roses (including climbing roses), and lilies.

Planting and caring for perennial delphinium requires some effort; it is not for nothing that it is called the “king of flower beds.” The troubles and time spent are completely repaid by the enchanting beauty of the blooming candle inflorescences. Besides, what you put your soul into, willy-nilly, you value more.

Delphinium is a representative of the Buttercup family. The poisonous flower can be one-, two-, or perennial. It tolerates low temperatures well and grows up to 2 m in height. Blue, pink and pale white delphiniums decorate gardens and are used for vertical decoration of walls and fences. Ready-made seedlings of exotic flowers will cost a decent amount. It is more profitable to purchase seeds and grow delphinium yourself.

Where to buy seed

Only employees of reputable nurseries and breeders know how to properly store seed. Exotic flower seeds lose viability at room temperature. The workpiece is kept in the refrigerator or special chambers, where it is always dry and the thermometer does not show more than zero.

Delphinium sold in markets or supermarkets does not sprout in 60–80%. The problem is not with the gardener who used the wrong substrate or fertilizer, but with the seed itself. Market traders do not know how to create the right conditions for exotic flowers. Pack the seeds in paper bags and store warm along with the rest of the plants. The result is a lack of seedlings and wasted money.

You can ask for delphinium seeds from your neighbors who grow colorful bushes. Several brown boxes are cut from healthy and well-developed plants. Deep color indicates that the flowers are ripe. Some people pick specimens that are just becoming covered with brown spots and store them in a cool room until the pieces change color.

The seeds are carefully poured onto a clean sheet, dried and placed in glass jars. The containers are placed in the refrigerator or freezer and taken out onto the balcony or veranda. At sub-zero temperatures, seed is stored for up to 15 years. To “wake up” the delphinium, it is enough to stratify and plant the seeds in the ground.

Preparing the plant

The seed material is first disinfected:

1. Prepare a deep pink solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide. They recommend Fitosporin or Maxim, which is diluted with water according to the instructions.
2. Place delphinium seeds in a fabric bag and immerse in disinfectant liquid for 20 minutes.
3. Remove the workpiece and rinse off the remaining solution with running water, and then place it on a saucer and soak.

There should be little liquid; add a few drops of Epin or Zircon to it. The products stimulate growth and increase the percentage of seedlings. What to do after soaking?

1. After a day, drain the fertilizer and place the seeds in a thin layer on damp gauze or a piece of cotton fabric.
2. Roll the rag into a not too tight roll and place it in a plastic container.
3. Place the container with the seed in the refrigerator and regularly add 10–20 ml of water so that it covers only the lower part of the gauze roll.
4. When there is too much liquid, the seeds do not breathe and begin to rot.
5. An alternative to water is wet moss, which is used to lay fabric rolls with delphinium.

Keep the seed in the refrigerator for about a week. When small white dots hatch, the workpiece is moved to the windowsill and kept under phytolamps or fluorescent lamps for several days. Germinated and heated seeds are planted in open ground or boxes with a special substrate.

Some gardeners soak the seed in early spring, wrap it in gauze and place it in plastic bags. The workpiece is buried in the ground and left for 1–2 weeks. They do this in April, when the snow begins to melt and the temperature ranges from – 5–10 to +3–6 degrees.

Growing in open ground

• peat and humus – 2 kg each;
• wood ash – 100–150 g;
• nitrophoska – 20–30 ml.

Coarse sand must be added to heavy soil. Approximately a bucket and a half per square meter, so that the soil becomes more loose and moisture-permeable. Add 20–30 g of lime to soil with high acidity, otherwise the delphinium will be weak and dull.

The components are thoroughly mixed, poured onto the beds and the soil is dug to a depth of 25–30 cm. The area intended for growing exotic flowers is carefully leveled, breaking up lumps and removing remaining weeds. The area is lightly compacted and covered with shallow grooves.

The beds are filled with filtered water and sown with sprouted seeds. Cover future bushes with a centimeter layer of sifted soil. Protect from frost and rain with thick film or tarpaulin. The soil is regularly ventilated and moistened, and completely uncovered 20–25 days after emergence.

How to care for delphinium seedlings

1. Make sure that the soil does not dry out.
2. Apply fertilizers periodically: first nitrogenous, after flowering feed with phosphorus, and at the end of August and beginning of September feed with potassium.
3. Loosen the soil and clear weeds.

This is enough for the plant to develop normally, form buds in a timely manner and throw out buds.

From refrigerator to drawer

Growing perennial delphiniums is a troublesome, but interesting task. The seeds are disinfected and stratified, and then planted not in open ground, but in wooden or plastic boxes 10–20 cm deep.

While the seed swells and germinates, the substrate is prepared. Mix:

• leaf or turf soil;
• sand;
• humus.

Take the components by eye to get light, loose soil that allows air to pass through and does not retain excess moisture. It is advisable not to add peat. It will make the substrate too acidic and the delphiniums will turn out pale.

Replace peat with wood ash: 100 g of additive per bucket of finished substrate. An alternative to organic replenishment is a mineral complex. A tablespoon of fertilizer per 10–12 liters of soil.

Fill 2/3 of the box with the prepared substrate, not forgetting the drainage layer. Distribute the sprouted seeds. For 1 sq. cm there are 1–2 pieces each. The seed material is small, so it is recommended to use a wooden toothpick:

• Soak the sharp tip in water.
• Carefully pick up the seed.
• Place it in a box, pressing it lightly into the ground.

Sprinkle the future seedlings with a thin layer of substrate and tamp with a sheet of paper or glass. Cover the box with burlap or a piece of cardboard so that light does not fall on the seeds, and send the delphinium to a cool room. Maintain the temperature in the room no higher than +15, otherwise the flower will not sprout. Periodically moisten the soil with a spray bottle or a small watering can with a strainer on the spout.

Abundant watering is contraindicated for delphinium, otherwise rot or black leg appears on the plant, and the seedlings die. The temperature must not drop below +12.

The first shoots will hatch in 8–10 days, maximum 3 weeks. Usually only 60–70% of seeds germinate, even if the seed material was of high quality and the gardener carefully prepared it. Weak seedlings need sun, so the box with seedlings is moved to the windowsill. Gradually increase the temperature to +20 so that the delphinium feels comfortable.

If the seeds were planted at the end of February or beginning of March, when the daylight hours are not long enough, the thin seedlings are illuminated with phytolamps so that they do not stretch out and weaken.

Diving is carried out after the formation of the third full leaf.

Exotic flower seedlings are planted in peat pots. Ordinary plastic ones filled with a nutrient substrate with the addition of mineral fertilizers are also suitable. It is recommended to soak peat tablets in a fungicide solution to protect delphinium from blackleg.

Before picking, the seedlings in the box are filled with water to soften the soil. Using a spatula or hands, separate the young seedling from the rest, trying not to injure the root system. Take it out of the box along with a lump of soil. Do not clean off the soil, but immediately transfer the flower to a new pot. Leave the cotyledon on the surface of the soil.

The transplanted delphinium is watered after 2–3 days. The plant will need time to adapt and take root. 3 weeks after picking, the seedlings are fed with mineral fertilizers intended for roses or organic solutions. For example, from wood ash or mullein.

A healthy delphinium has rich green leaves. If the top is faded, the flower needs more sun or feeding.

Preparing for the natural environment

The exotic plant is transferred to open ground in early or mid-May. The main thing is that at night the air temperature does not drop below +10. Light frosts will not harm young bushes, but severe frosts can destroy seedlings.

In order for the delphinium to quickly take root in the garden, it is hardened. During the day, place it on a lighted windowsill and open the windows. The seedlings will get used to ultraviolet light and cool air. Flowers can be hardened on the balcony, but be sure to be brought into the house at night.

To ensure that seedlings grown with such difficulty do not die after transplantation, you need to choose the right site:

1. One of the main conditions is plenty of morning sun. After lunch, shade should fall on the plants.
2. It is impossible for melt or rain water to stagnate in the area with delphiniums.
3. Plant flowers at a decent distance from bushes and trees. Their root system will dominate and draw out all the beneficial substances from the soil, depriving the delphinium of nutrition.
4. Tall exotic bushes can break from strong gusts of wind, so it is recommended to plant them near a house or a fence that will protect the plant.

A distance of 40–60 cm is maintained between flowers. A mixture of humus, lime, wood ash and mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen is added to the holes. The root collar and buds are left on the surface of the earth.

Perennial delphinium is fed in the same way as annual delphinium:

• In the spring, nitrogen fertilizer is applied;
• when the flowers wither, phosphorus composition;
• in early August they fertilize with potassium.

Important: If at the end of May - beginning of June the delphinium flower stalks have fallen, there is no need to apply an additional portion of fertilizer. Symptoms indicate yellow cutworm is laying eggs in the root portion of the plant. To prevent insect infestation, delphinium bushes are sprayed with insecticides in spring and summer.

After flowering, the wilted branches are cut off and the hole is sealed with plasticine so that water does not accumulate inside the stem. Moisture causes the plant to rot. Every 4-6 years the bush is transplanted to a new place, because the flower gradually depletes the soil.

Perennial delphinium will decorate the garden. It is necessary to take intensive care of two-meter bushes only in the first year of life, then it is enough to water and loosen the soil in a timely manner, periodically clear the area of ​​weeds and carry out preventive spraying with insecticides.

Video: the secret to the success of delphinium from seeds