Grain mill: purpose and operating principle. Making a home hand mill with an electric motor. Homemade mill with your own hands Drawings of homemade manual flour mills

Manual mills for grinding grain at home are modern household designs that allow you to effortlessly obtain flour from different

When developing a device such as a grain mill, professional engineers use the latest technologies, thanks to which work in the kitchen becomes pleasant and easy. These are relatively new units, but they have managed to gain wide popularity in the kitchen appliances market.

There are also industrial grain mills. But they are used in large flour mills and farms. Their prices are quite high.

The stores offer a wide range of devices such as a grain mill. But making such a device yourself is not so difficult, but it will require a fair amount of skill and the ability to work with turning and drilling devices. A home grain mill will produce flour of different grinds depending on the setting. At the same time, you will spend a minimum of money.

This article will tell you how to make a grain mill with your own hands.

Mill "Malyutka"

The most common model is the Malyutka grain mill. It was invented in Udmurtia by two engineers. Using this device, you can achieve not only grinding grain to the required size, but also producing feed and obtaining flour from corn, buckwheat and other grains. Such an electric grain mill will become simply indispensable for a family that lives in its own home and has pets.

The dimensions of this machine are small, but the level of performance can surprise any user. A full bucket of corn can be processed in five minutes, and a bucket of wheat can easily be ground in just three minutes.

Technical parameters of the device:

  • body size, not including hopper and pipe, is 320 x 160 x 170 mm;
  • the device is capable of producing two types of grinding: fine and coarse;
  • low engine power - 180 W;
  • high level of productivity with low energy consumption;
  • the presence of a reversible rotary engine;
  • The weight of the device is 15 kg.

The most important task that increases the efficiency and durability of such a unit as a grain mill is the assembly of the rotor and stator.

Device diagram

Many people are interested in how to make a grain mill with their own hands?

Before you start assembling the device, experts advise stocking up on all the necessary parts:

  • electric motor (can be used since the required power is small);
  • engine mounting points (requires 12 M6 bolts with washers equipped with springs);
  • (two steel corners measuring 45 x 45 mm);
  • the base of the device (frame) is made of sheet steel, the thickness of which is 6-8 mm;
  • studs with nuts that provide tightening;
  • receiving box based on roofing metal;
  • rotor;
  • bearing cover;
  • stator;
  • pipe branch;
  • cover made of sheet iron 3 mm thick;
  • four M6 screws securing the cover;
  • spacer ring;
  • fastening the receiving box;
  • two bearings No. 203;
  • three screws connecting the covers;
  • M6 screws equipped with nuts (for installation);
  • loading box;
  • axle (M6 stud and two nuts);
  • wooden handle;
  • pipe attachment points.

Rotor manufacturing process

A manual grain mill with your own hands has a unified design, so the assembly can be classified as easy. If it seems impossible to prepare parts manually, you can order them from a lathe. You need a stator, a rotor, and a bearing cover.


If you decide to resort to making a rotor on your own, then you should take into account a number of important technical nuances:

  1. The part must be equipped with a shaft with a variable cross-section. It is made from forging M 45 with a length of 9 cm and a diameter of 12 cm or round steel.
  2. The whole process should proceed in stages: preparation of metal parts (holes with a radius of 5 cm are drilled in a circle with a diameter of 105 mm at the same distance).
  3. The outer layer of the circle should be removed in such a way that the size of the groove is reduced to 104.5 mm. The working teeth must be open. After this, the rotor is hardened.

Rotor processing

Hardening of the rotor must be done in a certain sequence: the temperature in the furnace is raised to 800 ºС, after which the part is lowered into an oil container. In this case, it is highly not recommended to cool the metal with water, as cracks may appear. Then tempering is carried out: the rotor is subjected to secondary heating, but to a temperature of 400 ºС. You need to let it cool at room temperature. As a result, you will receive a very durable and solid part that will last for decades. To check the level of quality of the work performed, you should run a file along the cutting side of the tooth. If sliding is noted and no trace remains, then this means that everything was done correctly.

In a device such as a homemade grain mill, the rotor will rotate using two radial bearings. This increases the rigidity of the unit and the strength of the device. A 0.5 mm spacer ring is made between the bearings in the shaft. It serves to displace the bearings and create the tension necessary to adapt the assembly to the stress in the mechanism.


Making a stator

Making a stator is a little more difficult, as it requires precision from you. The work is being done in stages. First of all, the workpiece is turned on a lathe, and then a small technological allowance is left. For this purpose, an opening of up to 70 mm is drilled in the center. A circle with a diameter of 105 mm is marked on the workpiece, and the central points of future openings are marked. Subsequently, they will become the working plane for the stator. The markings are applied strictly according to the drawing.

The contours of the holes are marked at the top and bottom, and then blind “windows” are drilled to a depth of approximately 26 mm. On the machine, the allowance left earlier is removed, and the space for the working chamber (105 mm) is bored. The resulting workpiece is turned over and a landing recess is made for inserting bearings. You will also need to make a groove for the sealing parts. The mill can function without this component.

When the stator is ready, you can start creating threaded holes for the bearing caps, stator, pipe and loading box. The stator, like the rotor, is subjected to thermal treatment using a similar technology.

To ensure smooth operation of the unit, the stator coordinates should be set correctly. In this case, bolts are used. When operating, the rotor should move slowly and easily, without jerking or stopping. Only after checking the functionality of all parts can you begin a trial run of the device. For this purpose, the mill (flour grinding apparatus) is fixed on a stool or table so that it does not fall during vibration.

Bed production

The bed is an important part. It is used as a base plate. To create it, a sheet of steel with a thickness of 6-8 mm is used. The stator is attached to the frame using M6 screws. The screws will also hold the pipe, which can be removable. The pipe is installed in the opening of the base corresponding to the diameter of the part. It is held in the mechanism only by friction.

Manufacturing of the pipe

To make a pipe, you should take a piece of pipe with a thin wall. Its diameter should be 28 mm. A product with a round or square cross-section is applicable. Depending on this indicator, a hole of the desired shape and diameter is made in the frame.

Making a loading box

If you have made all of the above items, then manufacturing the loading box is not that difficult. It is made from roofing metal sheets, bent to the desired shape and soldered at the seams. Ordinary sheet iron is also applicable, but roofing sheet metal has greater strength.

When the part is ready, it should be installed on the stator and secured with two M6 bolts.

We take into account important points

Before you start assembling a manual mill for grinding grain, the following fact is taken into account: if the rotor is twisted in only one direction, then the first half of the stator working chamber will be in working condition, and when the rotor rotates in the opposite direction, the second half will be connected. The sides differ in the number of protrusions and their sizes. This allows you to get flour of different grinds (coarse or fine). Only the direction of the rotor needs to be changed.

Installation of the unit

To bring all parts into working condition, a certain amount of current is required. Before you start cutting out all the parts of the device, prepare the necessary electrical equipment. Such a unified design does not require expensive elements.


You will need an electric motor, a capacitor with a capacity of 3.8 µF, a fuse and a toggle switch. The motor is mounted on a dielectric plate, and other components are attached there. To make the rotor turn in the opposite direction, they resort to switching the capacitor.

The crushing and motor shafts are located along the axis. A rigid coupling is used to transmit rotation. Holes are drilled in the mounting angles to guide the parts to adjust the position. Holes are also made in the frame. They are needed to move.

Cereals are loaded into the receiving box, a container for flour is placed under the outlet pipe, and the first grinding process is carried out at home.

The article covers the question of how to make a grain mill with your own hands. Making such a practical device is not particularly difficult. A manual machine will cost you much less than buying a factory made one.

I myself made a hand mill for my family from scratch, or rather a stone millstone mill, the same as our Slavic ancestors used to use, and I will share with you step by step how it all happened, I hope this information will be useful to many. And if you, like me at one time, decided that you need a hand mill, then it means that you also care about your health and the health of your loved ones and you consciously approach the choice of food products. And a high-quality hand mill made of stone is in fact the only device for grinding grain crops, the safety of which can not be doubted, because it is made from natural materials, because on an industrial scale flour is obtained by grinding in metal mills and some of the metal from the moving moving surfaces will definitely get into the product, and I’m not sure that this will not have any negative effect in the future, because as you know, metals tend to accumulate in the body of living beings. And flour is a perishable product, and to prevent oxidation, a preservative is added to it (which large manufacturers actively keep silent about). And in addition, premium flour does not contain the grain shell, and because of this, it does not contain vitamins, which are used in the form of bran to feed pets.

So, excuse the lyrical digression, let's get down to the actual process of making our kitchen assistant - a hand mill. The main question to start with is to find suitable stones for the millstones. All subsequent work depends on them. Stones can be ordered from specialized stone processing workshops. But you can take a more complex, but budget-friendly path, and find suitable stones anywhere on a vacant lot or on the banks of a river or sea and process them yourself. You decide. To process the stone, I needed a grinding machine, popularly called a grinder, with a power of 2 kW and a diamond blade with a diameter of 230 mm (a dry cutter). You will also need a drill or hammer drill to drill stone. The larger the stones, the better, because after cutting the millstones and giving them the correct round shape, a lot of material will be thrown away. The diameter of the finished millstones turned out to be 22 cm, and the height was 10 and this, as I later became convinced, was the required minimum, because the stones must be heavy to effectively grind the grain.

A manual grain mill consists of 2 millstones, the upper one is called a runner, the lower one is called a nizhnyak (almost like a nishtyakJ) and the base is a wooden frame. The runner must have sufficient mass, but at the same time it should not be too heavy to lift, because each time after grinding it will need to be lifted in order to sweep away the remaining flour located between the two millstones. So, with the help of a grinder, I got 2 cylinders of stone, each about 100 mm high, taking into account wear and tear, this should be enough for 2-3 generations, I hope, so with the help of a manual stone mill you will get rid of dependence on the system, eliminating intermediaries who make money on this, and also leave your children and grandchildren a unique tool - a working tool, unlike modern iPhones, which break down after a few years.

It is necessary to drill a hole in the upper millstone (runner) to feed grain to the center. I spent 1 day on this task (due to the lack of a quality tool) and burned 1 drill, although it was far from new, but it’s also a pity: (You can only drill a stone with a drill with a carbide (popularly “Pobedit”) tipped or a drill with diamond coating. Ordinary drills for metal processing are not suitable. I drilled the runner for a long time and tediously, constantly cooling the processing area with water.

Then, on the contacting surfaces of the millstones, I used a grinder to cut out radially located notches - grooves of a triangular cross-section. See picture:

The notches are 10 mm wide and 2 mm deep in the bottom and 4 mm in the runner. In total, there were 20 notches on each stone. And near the center in the runner you need to make 4 large grooves for collecting and distributing grain with a depth of 8 mm and a width of 15 mm. See picture

After that, I started making a wooden frame that would serve as a support for the lower part and center the runner with its sides. At the bottom of the mill I provided a window for installing a tray or plate for flour and cereals. I advise you not to immediately make deep notches in the stones, but after grinding and first grinding, cut them deeper as necessary. I attached a metal clamp to the runner (yes, I know, I couldn’t completely avoid using metal) to which I attached the handle. The handle directly attached to the runner turned out to be inconvenient - it was difficult to rotate the millstone, so I increased the lever, as a result the handle and the runner itself began to rotate much easier.

To create a smooth grinding surface on both burrs, I first sanded them by hand using the flat side of the grinding wheel. Then he placed the millstones in the frame on top of each other and ground them, rotating, and pouring quartz sand into the mill instead of grain.

In total, I spent on making a manual grain mill:

4 hours – to cut the stones with a grinder to a cylindrical shape.

8 hours – drilling a runner with a diameter of 20 mm to a depth of 100 mm.

4 hours – making the wooden frame of the mill

3 hours – grinding in the millstones, final processing of the notches.

Total - 21 hours of working time, not counting the search for stone blanks for millstones.

After making a hand mill, I tried grinding wheat, oats, lentils, rice and corn. The mill crushed all of the above crops well. In addition to the mill, you need to acquire several sieves of different grain sizes, because when grinding, not only flour comes out, but also a certain percentage of cereal, which must be re-filled into the mill for additional grinding. You can't even imagine how delicious the first cookies made from home-made corn flour were.

In general, the work performed brought me not only the result in the form of a mill, but also the pleasure of finding and solving unusual problems.

joint treatment, arthritis treatment, arthrosis treatment

A household mini grain mill is a necessary device for producing flour. Making a mill with your own hands will require skills in working with drilling and turning devices. Using this device you can obtain coarse or fine flour and use it for home baking. Read the detailed instructions on how to make a mill with your own hands and try to apply your knowledge in practice.

Characteristics of a homemade mini grain mill

This device was created in Udmurtia by O. Zaitsev and A. Yagovkin and was called “Baby”. Using this handmade mill, you can grind grain, make feed for livestock and poultry on your farm, grind flour from oats, wheat and other grains. A homemade mill is small in size, but at the same time has high productivity: in just 5-6 minutes you can grind a bucket of corn on it, and wheat and oats - 2 times faster.

The technical characteristics of a homemade grain mill made by yourself are as follows:

  • dimensions (without pipe and hopper) - 320 x 160 x 170 mm;
  • electric motor power - 180 W;
  • productivity: for corn - 0.2 buckets per minute, for wheat, oats and other crops - 0.5 buckets per minute;
  • number of possible grinding varieties - 2;
  • the chopper is homemade, rotor-stator and reversible;
  • weight of the mill assembled - 15 kg.

This homemade grain crusher mill is quite reliable: as practice has shown, over two years of active operation the mechanism has never failed.

How to make a rotor for a homemade mini mill

The design of a homemade grain mill is quite simple, so anyone who has the desire can assemble such a device on their own. However, before you make a mill with your own hands, you need to acquire certain skills, namely, mastery of drilling and turning devices.

But if you don’t have such skills, you can order the required parts from the workshop. Only three main parts will have to be ordered from the craftsmen: the rotor, stator and bearing cover. You can assemble the entire structure from already manufactured parts in your home workshop.

If it is possible to make all the parts for a homemade flour mill yourself, then you should take into account a number of technological recommendations. When manufacturing a steel rotor, it is necessary to grind it together with a variable-section shaft. It is made from steel round timber or forging (grade 45, diameter 120 mm and length 90 mm). The work should be carried out in three stages. First, pre-processing is needed; holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the workpiece, which should be evenly spaced around the circumference (diameter 105 mm). When the top layer is removed (grooved until a diameter of 104.5 mm is reached), the working protrusions-teeth open. Then the finished rotor must be subjected to heat treatment, i.e. hardening and tempering.

The technology of this process is as follows: the part must be heated to a temperature of 800-820 ° C (to a light red heat), then lowered into an oil bath (it is not recommended to use water, otherwise the part will turn out to be too brittle and cracks will form), then tempering should be carried out , for which you need to heat the rotor to 380-400 ° C and then cool it in air. As a result, the hardness of the treated surface increases significantly - up to 350-400 Brinell units. You can check the quality of the hardening of the product using a file, running it along the cutting edge of the rotor tooth. With high quality hardening, the file will easily slide over the product without leaving a mark.

The rotor of this design rotates on two radial ball bearings. This allows you to significantly increase the load-bearing capacity of the unit, as well as the reliability of the entire mill as a whole.

A spacer ring 0.5 mm thick should be installed on the shaft between the bearings. This device allows the bearings to move by a calculated amount, creating a slight interference, which allows the unit to adapt to the internal stresses present in the rotor-stator mechanisms.

How to make a home mill stator with your own hands

The most difficult part is the manufacture of the stator, so maximum precision and accuracy of the work performed is required here. The entire process of manufacturing a part also takes place in three stages. First you need to process the workpiece on a lathe. In this case, a technological allowance should be left on the side of the working chamber. To do this, you need to drill the central hole to a diameter of 70 mm, then mark a circle with a diameter of 105 mm on the workpiece, mark the centers of future holes, which will subsequently form the working surface of the stator. These markings are applied in accordance with the drawing. Next, the contours of the upper and lower “windows” are marked, and after that, in accordance with the drawing and markings, blind holes are drilled to a depth of 28 mm.

Next, you should remove the technological allowance on a lathe and bore the cavity for the working chamber to a diameter of 105 mm. Now the workpiece needs to be unrolled and the seat for bearings No. 203 must be bored. A groove for the sealing collar (if provided) is also machined. However, it is known from practice that the design can do without this element.

This completes the first stage of processing the part. Now you can start drilling the threaded holes to install the stator cover, pipe, hopper and bearing cover. At the end of the work, the stator must be subjected to heat treatment, like the rotor (using the same technology).

In the process of making a homemade mill, it is very important to carefully adjust the position of the stator during the process of assembling the mini-mill. This is done using bolts. The rotor should rotate easily and without jamming. After this, you can test run the mill. First you need to fix it on a stool, plug it into the network, fill the hopper with grain and turn it on.

How to make a home mill frame

Next point: how to make the third important design detail for a homemade mill - the base plate, or frame. It can be cut from a steel sheet 6-8 mm thick. Then you need to attach the stator to it using M6 screws, which will simultaneously fix the pipe. The last element can also be made removable by simply installing it in the hole in the frame, which is made in this case according to the size of the pipe. The structural element will be held in this hole only due to friction.

The pipe is made from a piece of thin-walled pipe with an outer diameter of 28 mm. Its cross-section can be square or round, and in accordance with this, the hole in the frame for it is also made square or round, depending on the diameter of the pipe used.

Next comes the loading hopper. This is the simplest part in the overall design according to the manufacturing method. The bunker can be cut out of roofing iron, then the sheet can be bent to a given shape and the butt seam soldered. Roofing iron can easily compete in strength and reliability, in this case, with thicker sheet iron. The finished hopper is installed on the stator and secured with two M6 bolts.

Before making a grain mill, be sure to consider one important factor. If the rotor rotates in one direction, only one half of the stator working chamber is engaged. If the rotor rotates in the opposite direction, then the other half of the stator will begin to participate in the work. Since the sizes and number of protrusions in the working chamber on the right and left are different, the result of grinding the product in the first and second cases will be different. Thanks to this, using one or another option, it will be possible to obtain a greater or lesser degree of grinding of the output product. To do this, you just need to change the direction of rotation of the rotor.

Electrical equipment for a household mini-mill

Even before making a mini mill, take care of the electrical equipment. A capacitor, a toggle switch and a fuse are used as electrical equipment in the mini-mill design. They are mounted next to the electric motor on a plate made of dielectric. To reverse the rotor, you simply need to switch the capacitor, the capacitance of which is approximately 3.8 μF (due to the relatively low load on the motor).

The shafts of the grain crushing mechanism and the engine must be positioned coaxially. The transmission of rotation will be carried out using a rigid coupling. In the mounting angles, it is necessary to make guide holes for M6 bolts so that the alignment of the shafts can be adjusted. In the base plate of the mill, there should be holes in the horizontal plane that will be used for movement, and in the vertical plane, the same holes should be located on the other shelf of the corners.

To prepare the flour, you only need to place a container under the outlet pipe. If everything is done correctly, the mill will work without interruption.

How to make a hand mill from old stone millstones.

Wind and water-powered flour mills have been used for grinding grain for many centuries. Nowadays, flour mills are very rare and often represent an exhibition item. In cities, as well as in villages, it has long become a habit to buy ready-made flour obtained from industrial mills. Villagers sell the grown grain to these same enterprises, but villages could provide themselves with flour on their own with the help of much more environmentally friendly and economical mills.

Mill structure
For modern people, a mill is not a particularly complex structure, but to build it you still need to know how it works.

Millstone
The most complex element is the millstone. Often, millstones are round stones with a hole in the center. The best material for making millstones is a special rock - viscous, hard and incapable of polishing sandstone, but millstones can also be made from marble, quartzite or granite. The stone is cut in such a way that one of the sides (grinding) is as even and smooth as possible, and then a series of deep grooves are punched on this surface, and the spaces between these grooves are brought into a rough-rough state.











The grooves are made either radial or crescent-shaped, diverging from the center to the edges.


There should be two such millstones in the mill; the only difference between them is that the top one will also have grooves for fixing the rotating mechanism.

After making two millstones, they are collected in the mill station. A part of the rotating mechanism is attached to the upper millstone. The lower millstone is installed motionless with the grinding surface upward, and the upper millstone is placed on top of the lower millstone with the grinding surface downward, the hole of the lower millstone is closed; A box is assembled around the millstones; it closes the millstones on the sides, preventing the ground grain from scattering. Sometimes the box was made with a bottom and an outlet, so the ground grain was collected in the box and gradually poured through the outlet; a sieve could also be installed under the box, in which case the ground grain was poured into it, and then the sifted flour was collected.

The mill setup works as follows: grain is poured into the hole in the upper millstone; when the upper millstone rotates, the grain falls into the grooves, where it splits into small pieces; Over time, these small parts end up in areas of the millstones where there are no grooves and are crushed even more; under the influence of centrifugal force and under the pressure of the added grain, the ground grain moves along the grooves to the edges of the delivery and falls down.

Rotation mechanism
You can rotate the top millstone in different ways.

If the millstone is not heavy, then it can be rotated manually; to do this, a handle is cut into it and a person holding onto this handle rotates it. This method is good for gradually grinding grain at home.

If it is necessary to supply an entire settlement with flour, then a hand mill is not enough. And here the forces of nature come to the rescue, namely wind and water.


The mill building can be of any shape and from any material, the main thing is that the structure has the ability to install a mill mechanism and the building is durable. The main difference between a windmill and a water mill is that in a water mill the rotation mechanism is located under the millstones, and in a windmill above them; otherwise the mechanism is similar.

In a water mill, the millstones are rotated by a water turbine. The turbine can be 2 wooden circles or wheels connected to each other by wide bridges (blades). The turbine can rotate when partially lowered into the river bed due to the current, but such rotation will not be particularly effective; a more effective method is when water falls onto the turbine from a height, but this method is not applicable everywhere. An axis is attached to the turbine, which rotates with the turbine and, in the simplest case, transmits movement to the millstones through a gear transmission.

In a windmill, the millstones are turned by a propeller. The design of the propeller can be varied; in the simplest case, it is an equilateral cross to which the blades are nailed at an angle. The blades begin to rotate when the wind blows on them. An axle is attached to the propeller, which rotates with the propeller and transmits rotation to the millstones through a gear transmission.



About the millstones

The surface of the millstone is divided by deep grooves called grooves into discrete flat areas called grinding surfaces. From the grooves, expanding, smaller grooves called feathers extend. The grooves and flat surfaces are distributed in a repeating pattern called an accordion. A typical flour mill has six, eight or ten of these horns. The system of grooves and grooves, firstly, forms a cutting edge, and secondly, ensures the gradual flow of finished flour from under the millstones. With constant use, millstones require timely sharpening, that is, trimming the edges of all grooves to maintain the sharpness of the cutting edge.


Millstones are used in pairs. The lower millstone is installed permanently. The upper millstone, also known as the runner, is movable, and it is the one that directly produces the grinding. The movable millstone is driven by a cross-shaped metal "pin" mounted on the head of the main rod or drive shaft, which rotates under the action of the main mill mechanism (using wind or water power). The relief pattern is repeated on each of the two millstones, thus providing a “scissors” effect when grinding grains.

The millstones must be equally balanced. Proper placement of the stones is critical to ensure high quality flour is ground.

The best material for millstones is a special rock - viscous, hard and incapable of polishing sandstone, called millstone. Since rocks in which all these properties are sufficiently and evenly developed are rare, good millstones are very expensive.


A notch is made on the rubbing surfaces of the millstones, that is, a series of deep grooves are punched, and the spaces between these grooves are brought into a rough-rough state. During grinding, the grain falls between the grooves of the upper and lower millstones and is torn and cut by the sharp cutting edges of the grooves into more or less large particles, which are finally ground upon leaving the grooves.

The principle of operation of millstones

The notch grooves also serve as paths along which the ground grain moves from the point to the circle and leaves the millstone. Since millstones, even those made of the best material, are worn out, the notching must be renewed from time to time.

Description of the designs and operating principles of mills

Mills are called pillar mills because their barn rests on a pillar dug into the ground and lined on the outside with a log frame. It contains beams that keep the post from moving vertically. Of course, the barn rests not only on a pillar, but on a log frame (from the word cut, logs cut in not tightly, but with gaps). On top of such a ridge, an even round ring is made of plates or boards. The lower frame of the mill itself rests on it.

The rows of pillars can be of different shapes and heights, but not higher than 4 meters. They can rise from the ground immediately in the form of a tetrahedral pyramid or first vertically, and from a certain height they turn into a truncated pyramid. There were, although very rarely, mills on a low frame.

The base of the tents can also be different in shape and design. For example, a pyramid may start at ground level, and the structure may not be a log structure, but a frame one. The pyramid can rest on a frame quadrangle, and utility rooms, a vestibule, a miller’s room, etc. can be attached to it.

The main thing in mills is their mechanisms. In tent tents, the internal space is divided into several tiers by ceilings. Communication with them goes along steep attic-type stairs through hatches left in the ceilings. Parts of the mechanism can be located on all tiers. And there can be from four to five. The core of the tent is a powerful vertical shaft, piercing the mill right through to the “cap”. It rests on a metal bearing fixed in a beam that rests on a cobblestone frame. The beam can be moved in different directions using wedges. This allows you to give the shaft a strictly vertical position. The same can be done using the top beam, where the shaft pin is embedded in a metal loop.
In the lower tier, a large gear with cam-teeth is placed on the shaft, fixed along the outer contour of the round base of the gear. During operation, the movement of the large gear, multiplied several times, is transmitted to the small gear or lantern of another vertical, usually metal shaft. This shaft pierces the stationary lower millstone and rests against a metal bar on which the upper movable (rotating) millstone is suspended through the shaft. Both millstones are covered with a wooden casing on the sides and top. The millstones are installed on the second tier of the mill. The beam in the first tier, on which a small vertical shaft with a small gear rests, is suspended on a metal threaded pin and can be slightly raised or lowered using a threaded washer with handles. With it, the upper millstone rises or falls. This is how the fineness of grain grinding is adjusted.

From the millstone casing, a blind plank chute with a board latch at the end and two metal hooks on which a bag filled with flour is hung is slanted downwards.

A jib crane with metal gripping arcs is installed next to the millstone block. With its help, the millstones can be removed from their places for forging.

Above the millstone casing, a grain-feeding hopper, rigidly attached to the ceiling, descends from the third tier. It has a valve that can be used to shut off the grain supply. It has the shape of an overturned truncated pyramid. A swinging tray is suspended from below. For springiness, it has a juniper bar and a pin lowered into the hole of the upper millstone. A metal ring is installed eccentrically in the hole. The ring can also have two or three oblique feathers. Then it is installed symmetrically. The pin with the ring is called the shell. Running along the inner surface of the ring, the pin constantly changes position and rocks the slanted tray. This movement pours the grain into the jaw of the millstone. From there it falls into the gap between the stones, is ground into flour, which goes into the casing, from it into a closed tray and bag.

The grain is poured into a hopper embedded in the floor of the third tier. Bags of grain are brought here using a winch and a rope with a hook. The gate can be connected and disconnected from a pulley mounted on a vertical shaft. This is done from below using a rope and a lever. There is a hatch cut into the floorboards, covered with inclined double-leaf doors. The bags, passing through the hatch, open the doors, which then slam shut at random. The miller turns off the gate, and the bag ends up on the manhole covers. The operation is repeated.

In the last tier, located in the “cap,” another, small gear with beveled cam-teeth is installed and secured on the vertical shaft. It causes the vertical shaft to rotate and starts the entire mechanism. But it is made to work by a large gear on a “horizontal” shaft. The word is in quotation marks because in fact the shaft lies with a slight downward slope of the inner end. The pin of this end is enclosed in a metal shoe of a wooden frame, the base of the cap. The raised end of the shaft, extending outward, rests quietly on a “bearing” stone, slightly rounded at the top. Metal plates are embedded on the shaft in this place, protecting the shaft from rapid wear.

Two mutually perpendicular beams-brackets are cut into the outer head of the shaft, to which other beams are attached with clamps and bolts - the basis of the lattice wings. The wings can receive the wind and rotate the shaft only when the canvas is spread out on them, usually rolled into bundles during rest, not working hours. The surface of the wings will depend on the strength and speed of the wind.

The “horizontal” shaft gear has teeth cut into the side of the circle. It is hugged on top by a wooden brake block, which can be released or tightened with the help of a lever. Sharp braking in strong and gusty winds will cause high temperatures when wood rubs against wood, and even smoldering. This is best avoided.

Before operation, the wings of the mill should be turned towards the wind. For this purpose, there is a lever with struts - “carrier”.

Small columns of at least 8 pieces were dug around the mill. They were “led” and attached with a chain or thick rope. With the strength of 4-5 people, even if the upper ring of the tent and parts of the frame are well lubricated with grease or something similar (previously they were lubricated with lard), it is very difficult, almost impossible, to turn the “cap” of the mill. “Horsepower” is also not suitable here. Therefore, they used a small portable gate, which was alternately placed on posts with its trapezoidal frame, which served as the basis of the entire structure.

A block of millstones with a casing with all the parts and details located above and below it was called in one word - postav. Typically, small and medium-sized windmills were made “in one batch.” Large wind turbines could be built with two stages. There were windmills with “pounds” on which flaxseed or hemp seed were pressed to obtain the corresponding oil. Waste - cake - was also used in the household. “Saw” windmills seemed to never occur.

Donkey-powered mill

Is it possible to make a grain mill with your own hands? How is it used?

The home mill is currently used by connoisseurs of a healthy lifestyle to produce flour from various grains - corn, rye or wheat - at home. There are models that allow you to obtain other products - feed and flakes. By making products yourself, you can be confident in their quality.

Types of household mills

There are 2 types of grain mills: mechanical and electric. The former have a lower cost, the latter can cope with a larger volume of grain, but their price is more expensive.

The mechanical device is convenient because it can be used away from electrical sources. When choosing, you should ask what diameter the millstones are: the larger they are, the easier it will be to process the grain. It is worth paying attention to the material from which the millstones are made - it can be granite or ceramics. The best material is corundum ceramics, thanks to which you can obtain the finest flour.

You should be aware that a home mill is not suitable for processing oilseeds such as sunflower.


Mill "Malyutka"

If you have the technical capabilities, skills to work with a lathe and the availability of materials and tools, a mini flour mill can be implemented independently. In any case, the necessary parts can be ordered from a turner. First of all, before making a mill, you should find the drawings. One of the simplest and most famous models is called “Baby”. It was invented by engineers from Udmurtia, and it compares favorably with other models not only in its small size and simplicity of design, but also in its wide functionality and excellent performance: in 5 minutes it can handle a whole bucket of grain.

Technical characteristics of a homemade grain mill:

  • weight - no more than 15 kg;
  • average productivity: oats, wheat and other cereals - 0.5 buckets per minute, corn - 0.2 buckets;
  • power consumption - 180 W;
  • produces 2 types of products - coarse grinding and fine grinding;
  • Dimensions - no more than 330x170x170 mm.

List of materials required to assemble the device:

  • electric motor (a motor from a broken washing machine will do);
  • M16 bolts for securing the engine;
  • angle steel is used to make an engine mount;
  • galvanized iron for making a box (the finished flour will go into the box);
  • rotor, stator;
  • bearings;
  • axle and 2 M6 nuts;
  • cover for the assembly;
  • handle made of wood or other material.

The manufacture of the mill takes place in 3 stages: you need to make a rotor, stator and frame. The first is machined from a steel blank with a thickness of 90 mm and a diameter of 120 mm in accordance with the drawing. One of the most difficult parts to manufacture is the stator. Work should be carried out as carefully and accurately as possible, following the drawings. The rotor and stator in this case will work like millstones. The frame can be made from sheet iron with a thickness of at least 8 mm.

Mill from a washing machine

An interesting flour grinder made from a washing machine. This is a simple and powerful device that works on the principle of a coffee grinder. There are no detailed instructions for making such a mill, since each washing machine has individual parameters. The main thing is to understand the meaning of the device: it is not millstones that are used, but the grain is ground by knives mounted on an axis that rotates at high speed. The device uses 2 electric motors installed oppositely, the knives rotate opposite to each other. The speed of work and the quality of the final product will depend on the sharpness of their sharpening. To make a knife, a steel sheet measuring 200×15 mm with a thickness of 1.5 mm is used. Sharpening is done as the knife rotates; you can experiment with it. After sharpening is completed, a hole is drilled in the place where the knife is attached to the axle. The knife is put on the axle and secured with 2 nuts and washers.

It is necessary to make a container from sheet iron or other material from which the grain will flow into the grinding tank. The container and tank are separated by a manually opened valve.

At the point where the finished flour exits the grain mill, a sieve and a container for collecting flour are installed. To prevent losses when the product comes out, it is recommended to use a sleeve made of rubber or plastic (it can also be made of metal).

To prevent mill failure, it is recommended to clean the millstones every week.

Despite the fact that the era of agriculture ended many years ago, many are still interested in the question of how to make a mill for a summer residence with your own hands without much effort. Today we will cover this topic in as much detail as possible.

First of all, it’s worth talking about why a windmill is needed in a dacha today? After all, most likely no one will decide to use it to grind prepared millet into flour on a daily basis.

In addition, today, growing millet is more of an activity for professional farmers, because they are mainly responsible for production exclusively with modern technology.

However, a do-it-yourself decorative mill, which will be installed in the future at the dacha, has not bothered anyone yet.

What is a windmill used for today?

Before you decide to choose a place where your self-made windmill will be installed in the future, you should definitely keep in mind that the structure may have different purposes.

Firstly, a DIY windmill made for your dacha can hide some of the least attractive places in your home, like a manhole.

Secondly, most mills, which can be made without any problems with your own efforts, are quite simply made from lightweight materials, which makes it possible to significantly reduce their size.

For this reason, this type of structure is in most cases used as protective caps necessary for various types of engineering facilities.

Thirdly, many owners of country houses decide to turn the drawings of a mill in real life into a playhouse for their children. True, this requires a slightly enlarged design, but nothing is definitely possible.

The main thing you should pay attention to is that it is as stable as possible and with an open entrance.

Of course, if you decide to make a mill for the garden, you can subsequently find a huge number of different uses for it, as a component of modern landscape design.

Selecting and preparing a site for a new mill

The construction of a windmill is a rather important moment. It is important to pay attention to a number of fairly important factors in order to achieve a truly beautiful design.

Ideally, this should be an open space, since the blades will rotate actively and non-stop, and besides, it is much easier to assemble a massive structure in an open area, because absolutely nothing will interfere.

After completing the issue of choosing a location, it is necessary to remove all stumps and bushes that may interfere. By the way, if the grass is tall enough, then it is advisable to even cut it. The ground must be thoroughly leveled before installation of the structure.

Create a plan

The easiest way to understand from a photo of a mill at the dacha is how exactly the structure should be built.

The following actions must be taken:

  • Draw a sketch of the future layout;
  • Using the drawing, calculate what size each of the parts for the future mill will be;
  • Choose the optimal material for yourself, which will subsequently be used to create all structural elements.

It is believed that pine is one of the most profitable materials from a financial point of view, since everyone can afford it, and at the same time it is endowed with fairly good performance qualities.

Note!

After completing all the issues with the drawing and, accordingly, the plan, you can then proceed to the process of direct assembly. To make the mill look really beautiful, you can decorate it. This will give the object a finished look.

It is important to pay attention to the fact that if the wooden elements have not been processed well enough, it is advisable to use paint for decoration.

Of course, anyone can make a mill on their own. The most important thing is to think through the first stage in detail and draw the correct markings, as well as subsequently select the ideal place in your opinion.

In addition, you need to decide in advance what qualities you want to endow your building with.

DIY mill photo



Note!

Making a home hand mill with an electric motor. Homemade do-it-yourself mill

Making a home mill with an electric motor

For the mill, I found a faulty electric motor (with a power of about 300...1000 W). The engine was first disassembled. The starter was left unchanged. But with the rotor (Fig. 1) I performed the following operations:

I drilled holes in it along an inclined line with a drill with a diameter of 10 mm to a depth of 7 mm (the distance between the holes is 1...1.5 cm);

I connected the holes with grooves 7 mm wide and 3.5 mm deep using a cutting wheel.

It should be noted that in places where the finished product exits, that is, at points I, grooves are formed especially carefully, limiting the depth to 1.5...2 mm. After all, by setting the depth of the outlet grooves using the selection method, it is possible to regulate the grinding quality;

The top of the rotor is chamfered (with emery);

The rotor is inserted into the stator and holes are drilled or chised in the stator covers to fill the grain and output the finished product.

For the convenience of filling the grinding product into the mill, a loading hopper made of tin is attached to the lid. The dimensions of the hopper depend, of course, on the size of the engine (Fig. 2). A handle is attached to the top of the motor shaft (now mills) (using a pin, a bolt, or (if there is a thread on the shaft) nuts. The design of the handle can be of any kind.

For ease of use, the mill (assembled) is screwed to a board, which is then placed on a bench or stool, where a hole is cut for the flour to exit (Fig. 3). An inverted bucket is placed under the bench (when working) and a container for flour on it. They grind products either by moving the handle back and forth (180°), or by first making five turns of the handle clockwise, and then two...three turns counterclockwise (otherwise the grooves become clogged).

The advantage of this mill is that it is made from readily available waste materials. Disadvantage: low productivity.

So, if you use a 300 W motor for the mill, the flour output will be only 700 g/h. And by making a mill from an engine (I repeat, a faulty one) with a power of 1 kW, the productivity of the mill will increase to 2.5 kg/h. It is clear that the greater the engine power, the larger the size of both it and the rotor, which means the faster the grinding goes. By the way, to increase productivity, instead of a handle, you can try connecting an electric drill to the mill shaft and turning it on at low speed.

Tips for a novice miller:

Clean the rotor once a week;

Add grain in small portions to avoid clogging.

all materials from the “Ideas for the Master” section

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Grinding various grains and preparing feed for livestock and poultry on a private farm, producing corn, oat, wheat and other coarse or fine flour for home baking - all this is possible with the Malyutka micromill, created in Udmurtia by O. Zaitsev and A. Yagovkin. The small dimensions of the “Malyutka” are not a hindrance to the unprecedentedly high productivity of the unit - a bucket of corn turns into high-quality flour in just 5 - 6 minutes, and wheat, oats and similar grain crops - twice as fast.

As for reliability, it is convincingly evidenced by the fact that in two years of operation of the mechanism at full load, not a single malfunction arose.

The design of the micromill is extremely simple, so any DIYer familiar with drilling and turning can make it. And if it is possible to order three main parts (rotor, stator and bearing cover) “outside”, then you can literally assemble the mill “on your knees”, in a home workshop.

For those who decide to do everything themselves, some technological recommendations. The first concerns the manufacture of the steel rotor. It is machined integrally with a shaft of variable cross-section (from round steel or forging grade “45” with a diameter of about 120 mm and a length of 90 mm) in three stages. After pre-processing, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled into the workpiece, evenly spaced around a circle with a diameter of 105 mm. After removing the top layer (grooving to a diameter of 104.5 mm), the working protrusions-teeth open.

The finished rotor must be subjected to heat treatment - hardening and tempering. The technology of this process is as follows. The part is heated to a temperature of 800 - 820 ° C (light red heat color), after which it is lowered into an oil bath (when quenched in water, the part can turn out to be too brittle, and some types of steel are prone to cracking). After hardening, tempering is carried out, for which the rotor is heated to 380 - 400 ° C and then cooled in air. As a result, the surface hardness increases (up to 350 - 400 Brinell units). The quality of hardening can be checked with a regular file - it should slide along the cutting edge of the tooth without leaving a mark.

The stator is perhaps the most complex part of a micromill. As in the manufacture of a rotor, one cannot do without turning and drilling work, and the process of obtaining the part itself is also carried out in three stages. First, the workpiece is pre-processed on a lathe.

In this case, a technological allowance is left on the side of the working chamber, for which the central hole is drilled to a diameter of 70 mm. After this, a circle with a diameter of 105 mm is marked on the workpiece and, in accordance with the drawing, the centers of future holes are marked on it, which subsequently form the working surface of the stator. Then the contours of the upper and lower “windows” are marked. Next, blind holes are drilled to a depth of 28 mm exactly in accordance with the drawing and markings.

After this, the technological allowance is removed on a lathe and the cavity for the working chamber is bored to a diameter of 105 mm. Then, having unfolded the workpiece, bore the seat for bearings No. 203, and also make a groove for the sealing collar, if provided. Practice shows that, in extreme cases, you can do without this design “excess”.

Having finished with the turning work, it is necessary to drill threaded holes for installing the stator cover, nozzle, loading hopper and bearing cover. And finally, the stator must also be subjected to heat treatment using the technology described above for the rotor.

The base plate (frame) for mounting the micromill is cut from a steel sheet 6 - 8 mm thick. The stator is attached to it with M6 screws, which simultaneously fix the pipe. The latter, by the way, can be made removable and easily installed in the hole in the frame, which in this case is done locally - according to the actual dimensions of the pipe, which will be held in the hole by friction alone. In principle, the cross-section of the pipe may not be square, but round, and it can be made from a piece of thin-walled pipe with an outer diameter of 28 mm. At the same time, the hole for it in the slab should be round, in accordance with the actual diameter of the pipe.

The loading hopper is cut and bent from roofing iron, followed by soldering of the joint seam. This design is quite simple to manufacture, and serves no worse than one welded from a thick sheet. The hopper is installed on the stator using two M6 bolts.

A characteristic feature of the Malyutka micromill is that when the rotor rotates in one direction, only half of the stator working chamber is involved in the process of grinding raw materials and obtaining the finished product. If you rotate the rotor in the opposite direction, then the second half of the stator will participate in the work. The result in the first and second cases is different, since the sizes and number of protrusions in the working chamber on the right and left are not the same. This is what makes it possible to achieve a greater or lesser degree of grinding at the output, changing only the direction of rotation of the rotor.

The micromill rotor rotates on two radial ball bearings, which significantly increases the load-bearing capacity of the unit and the reliability of the entire mill as a whole.

And one more detail: a spacer ring - 0.5 mm thick, installed on the shaft between the bearings and allowing them to move by the calculated amount; in this case, a certain interference appears, adapting the unit to the internal stresses that exist in the rotor-stator mechanisms.

The electrical equipment of the micromill - a capacitor, a toggle switch and a fuse - is mounted on a dielectric plate next to the electric motor. The rotor is reversed by simply switching the capacitor, which, due to the relatively small load on the motor, has a capacitance of about 3.8 μF.

The shafts of the engine and the grain crushing mechanism are located coaxially. The transmission of rotation is carried out by a connecting rigid coupling. To adjust the alignment, there are guide holes for M6 bolts located in the mounting angles. Moreover, for movement in the horizontal plane, holes adjacent to the base plate of the mill are used, and in the vertical plane, holes located on the other shelf of the corners are used.

Before testing the mill, it is necessary to carefully adjust the position of the stator using bolts: the rotor should rotate in it easily, without jamming. After this, the micromill can be mounted on a chair or stool, plugged into the network and filled with grain. Flour will pour out of the outlet pipe into a container placed below.

Rice. 1. Micromill “Malyutka”:

1 - electric motor (from the washing machine); 2 — engine mount (M6 bolt with spring washer, 12 pcs.); 3 — engine support (steel angle 45×45, 2 pcs.); 4 - plate (steel, sheet s6 - 8); 5 — couplers (studs with M6 nuts); 6 — casing (roofing iron); 7 — coupling (StZ); 8 — rotor (steel 45); 9 — bearing unit cover (StZ); 10 — stator (steel 45); 11 — pipe (roofing iron); 12 — stator cover (steel, sheet s3); 13 — stator cover fastening (M6 screw, 4 pcs.); 14 - spacer ring; 15 — fastening of the loading hopper (M6 bolt, 2 pcs.); 16 — bearing No. 203 (2 pcs.); 17 — fastening the bearing unit cover (M6 screw, 3 pcs.); 18 — M6 set screws with locknuts; 19 — handle bracket (steel, sheet s2, 2 pcs.); 20 — loading hopper (roofing iron); 21 — handle axis (M6 stud with two nuts); 22 — handle (wood); 23 — fastening of the pipe (M6 bolts).

2. Schematic diagram of the micromill

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    The times when it was necessary to build a large stone mill to obtain flour have long since sunk into oblivion. Modern devices for grinding grain are practical and compact, and allow you to obtain flour from different types of grain crops. At home, you can make two types of mill: manual and electric.

    Electric homemade mill

    An electric homemade mill can produce flour of both coarse, medium and fine grinding. The fraction size is set in the settings. The advantages of a home grain mill are the ability to process a wide variety of raw materials: rice, buckwheat, wheat, soybeans, rye, corn, oats or millet.

    The power of the simplest home device will allow you to grind a bucket of corn to a flour-like state in five minutes, and a similar volume of wheat in just two minutes.

    Required materials and parts

    Making a mill with your own hands is not difficult if you have all the materials and tools. Before making a mill, it is recommended to study the diagrams and drawings well. You can find them on the Internet on any thematic forum. The drawings will help you understand the principle of fastening parts, electrical components, cutting elements, and avoid many errors in assembly.

    The mill structure includes:

    • Motor (a motor from an old washing machine will do),
    • Motor support,
    • Stanin,
    • Receiving bunker,
    • Rotor and stator,
    • Loading hopper.

    Materials you also need to have:

    • 20 bolts m6,
    • Steel corners,
    • Sheet steel with a thickness of at least 6 mm,
    • Screeds,
    • coupling,
    • Sheet steel for the manufacture of the lid, at least 3 mm thick,
    • 10 m6 screws,
    • A pair of bearings, number 203.

    Manufacturing process

    The design of the grain grinder is very simple. Manufacturing also does not require much effort if you buy all the necessary parts. Some craftsmen prefer to make at home not only the device itself, but also the component parts.

    In order to assemble a completely home grain mill, you need experience working with a lathe and drilling equipment.

    Rotor assembly

    The most important element of an electric mill is the rotor. The process of its manufacture is quite labor-intensive, and before starting work you need to remember several important points:

    • The shaft of the rotor being manufactured must be of variable cross-section,
    • The shaft is made of round steel,
    • The work process is divided into several stages.

    The first stage includes the preparation of metal blanks. The workpiece must have several identical holes with a radius of 5 cm. The second stage is erasing the outer layer of the workpiece so that the size of the groove decreases to 10.5 cm. With this size, the working teeth of the future rotor open.

    Next, the rotor is sent for hardening. Hardening occurs in two stages. The first is in an oven at a temperature of eight hundred degrees, the second is in an oil container. It is not recommended to cool the workpiece with cold water: the metal will become brittle. The next step is vacation: the rotor is heated to four hundred degrees and left at room temperature until it cools completely.

    The rotor is attached to the shaft with two bearings, which increases the strength of the mill. A small spacer ring is attached to the shaft between the bearings. They allow the bearings to move along the shaft to create more tension.

    Stator assembly

    It is very difficult to make a stator at home, so it is recommended to buy a ready-made element. Several threaded holes are made in the stator for the bearing caps and the stator itself, as well as for the branch pipe and the loading box. For greater accuracy of the mill operation, you need to correctly set the coordinates on the stator. This is done using several bolts.

    Bed assembly

    An important part of the mill is the frame. The base is made of thick steel sheet. The stator is attached to the frame using screws, which at the same time will hold the pipe. If a removable pipe is planned, then it must be attached to the opening in the base corresponding to the diameter of the part. The removable pipe is held in place only by friction.

    A pipe is made from a section of pipe with a diameter of about 3 cm. The pipe can have either a round or square cross-section. Next, a loading box is assembled from a sheet of iron. The iron sheet is bent into the desired shape, and the seams are soldered. The finished box is installed on the stator and secured with bolts.

    Engine mounting

    The grain mill is operated by an electric motor. Along with the motor you need to have:

    • Capacitor,
    • Tumblr,
    • Fuse.
    • The motor along with its components is installed on a dielectric plate.

    An important point: the motor shaft must be coaxial with the crushing rollers, and a coupling is used to transmit the rotating element.

    The device is ready for use. All that remains is to pour the grain into the loading hopper and turn on the device.

    Hand mill

    A do-it-yourself mechanical mill is much lighter than its electric counterpart, and its productivity is quite high. It consists of two parts - a millstone and a frame with a handle.

    Millstones for the mill

    For a productive mill, it is very important to find good millstones. The subsequent grinding and durability of the crusher depend on the quality of the stones. Typically, suitable stones can be found in special workshops, or found on the river bank and processed independently. Processing of future millstones is carried out using a grinder with a diamond disk of at least 23 cm in diameter. A powerful drill is needed to make holes in the center of the stones. The optimal diameter of the finished millstones is 22-24 cm, and the height is 10-12 cm. You can make larger millstones, but smaller ones are not advisable. The greater the weight of the stones, the better the grinding quality of the flour.

    A hand mill should consist of two millstones and a base. The upper millstone is called the runner, and the lower one is called the nizhnyak. The runner is usually made lighter, since after each cycle of operation it is raised to remove the remaining flour. A hole must be drilled in the runner to reach the center of the grain. It is better to drill with a special drill with a diamond coating, and during the process, cool the drilling site with cold water.

    The next step in making a home grain mill is cutting the notches on the millstones. They should have the shape of grooves with a triangular cross-section, about 10 mm wide, at least 2 mm deep and at least 4 mm in the lower part and runner, respectively. In the center of the runner, four large grooves are made, eight millimeters deep and fifteen millimeters wide. It will be easier to understand the location of the notches and holes if you find a finished project or drawings of a burr hand mill.

    Making the frame

    A home grain mill should have a durable wooden frame. It serves as a support for the lower millstone and centers the runner. A small cutout is made at the bottom of the wooden frame for flour. The hole can be closed with a sieve with a cell of the desired size - the flour will sift on its own and will not require additional processing. A metal clamp is attached to the slider, to which the handle is attached.

    A do-it-yourself mill made according to this scheme will last for many years and is capable of grinding a wide variety of types and types of grain.

    All farm owners know how useful a personal grain mill is, which is easy to make with your own hands. Using this design, you can renew food supplies for rabbits or crush fruits and vegetables. This device is also useful in the home. It can be used, for example, to crush grain crops and obtain flour.

    A grain mill is extremely necessary in agriculture for preparing coma for animals.

    However, finding a budget mill on the agricultural market is quite difficult. A hand mill is suitable for some, but most people build a full-fledged structure with an electric motor themselves. This will require turning skills and the ability to use a welding device. It is advisable to construct the structure if there are old household appliances or their individual elements at home.

    How to build a mill from a vacuum cleaner?

    You should not get rid of your old vacuum cleaner, as its motor is perfect for building a small mill. You will also need to prepare the following elements:

    • wooden pins;
    • plywood sheet 1 cm thick;
    • a steel plate that will be used as a knife;
    • metal strip;
    • bunker;
    • welding device.

    It is recommended to draw up a drawing of the mill, but photographs of finished units can also be used. First of all, you need to prepare the base of the device. In this case, you can use a sheet of plywood, from which you need to cut a square with sides of 30 cm. On top of the sheet you need to install the working motor from the vacuum cleaner so that the shaft protrudes down approximately 4 cm.

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    Cutting knife

    The main element of the mill is the knife, which will rotate at high speed and grind the grain. This device is manufactured separately. To do this, you need to prepare a steel plate 200x15x1.5 mm. The material must be strong. Additionally, you can use car holders or other similar devices.

    Sharpening a knife should be done with a sharp blade. Edges should be processed in the direction of the torsion axis. The shape may vary. For example, it may look like a propeller. Another option is to simply chamfer the corners. Using sandpaper you need to adjust the horizontal and vertical appearance of the plate.

    Next, in the middle part of the manufactured element, you need to drill a hole, the diameter of which corresponds to the shaft of the electric motor of the vacuum cleaner. The knife must be mounted on a threaded tail using a bushing, a nut and several washers of appropriate sizes.

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    How to make the main elements of the device?

    To set up a chamber in which grain will be crushed, you will need to prepare a strip of metal. The length of the element should be approximately 71 cm. The maximum width of the part is 6 cm.

    The metal must be rolled into a ring, and its edges bent outward along the perimeter of the chamber. The flanges should have a maximum width of 1 cm. In the future, you can fasten them to the base and install a sieve. To properly fix the crusher on the bottom side of the chamber, you will need to mount 3 wooden pins.

    You should know that a mesh with small cells is suitable for flour. For various vegetables, perforated discs are used.

    Grain can be fed into the chamber from a hopper, which is attached to the base. You will need to make a small hole in it and install a damper made of a plate, with which you will adjust the grain supply.

    You will definitely need to place a large bucket or basin under the sieve.

    Return to contents

    How to make a crusher?

    To construct this device you will need a rotor and a stator. A box on which an electric motor with a low power of approximately 1-2 kW is mounted is suitable as a stand for the device. It is allowed to use the device only with one phase.

    The mill body is a round metal platform with a diameter of 30-34 cm. At the bottom there should be a side - the stator. The device is closed with a lid at the top.

    Inside the structure there will be an electric motor and a mill. It must be secured so that the bearing of the device slides onto the shaft of the unit on which the rotor is located. During rotation, it will be able to reach speeds of up to 3000 rpm.

    You need to attach a bunker on top of the structure using screws. For convenience, you can install a lid that can stop the supply of material, as well as a canvas dust sleeve through which the products will exit the device.

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    How to make a stator and rotor?

    The stator can be made from a metal plate. The plate must be bent, placed in a mold, and one end part must be covered with aluminum so that a container with a lower part is obtained. The thickness of the element is 4 mm. Next, the workpiece needs to be made ribbed. To do this, cut corners 50x20x20 mm. These elements are attached by welding to the side inside the stator. In the middle part of the device you need to make a recess for the shaft.

    To construct a rotor, you need a sheet of metal with a thickness of at least 3 mm. A circle with a diameter of 320 mm should be cut out of it. Next, you need to measure 2 mm from the extreme part, draw a circle again and divide it into 32 parts. The marking area is processed with a drill so that recesses with a diameter of 3 mm are obtained. Cuts must be made from the outside to the recesses. In this case, you will need a hacksaw. At the end, the petals should be bent.

    A bushing with a diameter of approximately 30 mm must be fixed in the rotor by welding in the center.

    For the structure to function successfully, you will need to mount the stator on the shaft.

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    How to build a mill from a washing machine?

    A home mill based on a washing machine is a powerful and convenient design. The device operates on the principle of a coffee grinder. To make such a structure yourself, you do not need to be able to perform welding work. You will need to prepare the following elements:

    • Electrical engine;
    • several thin steel plates;
    • metal corner;
    • 3 liter tin cans;
    • electric drill.

    Each washing machine differs in dimensions, drum design and starting device. Therefore, there is no detailed design anywhere. People who want to make a grain mill with their own hands from a washing machine need to understand the very principle of operation of such a design.

    First of all, you should understand that the crushing speed depends on the sharpness of the scrolling knives and the power of the entire device.

    The grain entering the tank is ground using knives. Increased destruction will occur near the walls, since centrifugal force will act on the material.

    Each part for cutting will need to be tightly secured to a bushing that fits onto the shaft of the electric motor. As an element with an axial recess, you can use a pulley from a washing machine.

    One of the electric motors, in which the knives and bushings are mounted, must be mounted at the bottom of the tank, in the place where the recesses for the finished product are located. The second electric motor is fixed to the removable surface, near the entry hole. In the future, you will also need to install a sleeve and knives on it. To prevent the penetration of various debris into the structure, you need to place a can on top of the cutting plates. You will need to make a hole in it whose diameter corresponds to the dimensions of the sleeve. The element is secured using tripods.

    Electric motor shafts must rotate in opposite directions. They must be installed at an angle of 22-25° relative to each other. In this case, the yield of raw materials will be maximum.

    The bunker for filling grain can have any size. To regulate the flow of grain, you need to install a lid that will be opened manually. To prevent the product from scattering and organize its delivery from the recess to the collection tank, you will need to make an iron, plastic or rubber sleeve. It is recommended to make this device from iron.

    A home mill is quite simple to make. If assembled correctly, the design will delight the owner with a good product. If you do not have the skills to carry out welding work, it is recommended to make a crusher from a washing machine.

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