Water destroys the building structures, rendering them unusable and reducing their service life. This is especially true for the underground part of the house, which is exposed to several types of moisture at once. Outside, rain and melt water have a destructive effect on it, and in the soil, groundwater causes trouble, the level of which can vary depending on the season. Waterproofing methods for the foundation of a building depend on its type and method of manufacture (installation of tape, slab, pillars or piles).
How does moisture affect
There are several ways in which water can lead to the destruction of a concrete foundation:
- Washing out of particles from the structure, formation of irregularities and potholes due to aggressive components in rain or groundwater.
- Destruction when water penetrates into the body of the foundation and freezes there. The fact is that water is the only substance on the planet that, when entering a frozen state, expands and does not decrease in volume. Getting into the capillaries, it puts strong pressure on the foundation from the inside, which leads to the appearance of cracks and crevices.
That is why waterproofing the foundation is important and should be carried out immediately after the construction of the structure.
Types of moisture protection by location
In general, the foundation waterproofing device is divided into three groups:
- horizontal;
- vertical;
- blind area device.
Depending on the type of base, several methods can be used simultaneously.
Combined moisture protection
Horizontal is designed to prevent moisture from penetrating between different levels. It can be made of various materials. Provided for all types of foundations (strip, slab, pillars, piles).
Vertical is needed so that groundwater cannot influence the foundation. Not all types of grounds require such protection. Required only for strip and column supports of the house. Horizontal protection is provided for all types (strip, slab or free-standing supports).
The blind area protects the base from the penetration of rainwater and melted snow in the spring. Here the width of the structure is essential. If it is insufficient, the moisture will be removed a short distance and will be able to reach the foundation. This type of protection reduces the load on all others, allowing them to increase their service life.
Vertical and horizontal insulation
Waterproofing with roll material Foundation waterproofing can be done using different means of protection. Separately, it is worth considering vertical and horizontal types and the design of the blind area, since the materials in these cases will vary quite significantly.
Protection of the recessed part of the building with vertical and horizontal insulation suggests that materials can be used in the following ways:
- pasting;
- coating;
- penetrating;
- plastering;
- injection;
- mounted;
- structural (additives to concrete).
It is worth separately understanding what material to use in each case.
Pasting
This type of structure protection is carried out using roll versions with bitumen binder. Fused or bonded material may be used. Fused types imply the presence of an adhesive layer, which is heated at high temperatures and adheres to the surface. To attach insulation to the base without an adhesive layer, you will need to use bitumen mastic as a connecting substance.
Pasting materials include:
The use of roofing felt is the most common method - roofing felt(the material is outdated and it is not recommended to use it to protect critical house structures, but it is worth noting its low cost);
- glassine(waterproofing the foundation based on thick thick cardboard, which is impregnated with bitumen binder, cannot be classified as a reliable and durable method, but it will allow significant savings);
- roofing felt(remains the leader among roll insulation due to its affordable price, service life is quite short);
- polymer materials impregnated with bitumen, fiberglass or polyester base(here we can give as an example the following common options for protecting the walls and foundations of a house from moisture: “Linokrom”, “Gidroizol”, “TechnoNIKOL”, “Stekloizol”, “Bikrost”, etc.).
The last group is the most reliable option, but the price of such material can be quite high.
But here it is worth taking into account their long service life, which will reduce the frequency of repairs. The advantages of the pasting method include the fact that it can be used for various surfaces:
- concrete;
- tree;
- metal;
- asphalt concrete;
- old waterproofing coating (during repairs).
Coating insulation
In this case, waterproofing the foundation is most often performed using bitumen mastics. To protect the buried part of the building and the walls of the house, one-component and two-component compounds are used. In addition to bitumen, you can now find more reliable and modern options on the building materials market:
- polymer resins;
- bitumen-polymer resins;
- bitumen-rubber mastics.
Unlike regular bitumen, which cracks at low temperatures, these mixtures with additional additives are resistant to cold. The disadvantage of more modern options is their price, which cannot compete with conventional bitumen-based mastic. The latter is best used to protect house structures with deep groundwater.
Penetrating insulation
Waterproofing the foundation in this way prevents moisture from entering the concrete capillaries. This increases the strength of the surface layer of concrete. Waterproofing a strip foundation in this way is often carried out using an additional coating or adhesive layer.
On average, the penetration depth is 15-25 cm, but some materials can go as deep as 90 cm. It is important to note that such methods are only suitable for concrete. They are useless when used on brick and stone.
The most common compositions for this steel processing method are:
- "Penetron";
- "Peneplug";
- "Hydrohit";
- "Penecritus."
- "Osmosed."
Protecting the concrete base from moisture The technology of protecting the foundations and walls of a house in this way implies a thoroughly cleaned, degreased and level base, therefore it is recommended for use on new buildings.
Paint and plaster insulation
Do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing using painting and plastering compounds is not durable or reliable. If possible, it is better to give preference to other methods of protecting the foundations and walls of a house, since the average service life of such materials is 5 years.
Injection insulation
Technique for introducing polyurethane resin into the base This option is suitable for repairing a foundation that has already been put into operation. The technology allows you to protect the foundation without performing soil excavation work. Injectors are inserted into the supports and deliver an insulating substance. The following materials can be used as raw materials:
- foam;
- resins;
- acrylate gels;
- rubber;
- cement-containing mixtures;
- polymer compositions.
Mounted insulation
Waterproofing the foundation in this way allows you to most effectively combat high groundwater levels and their high pressure. It is mainly used for strip foundations when it is necessary to protect an underground room.
The most reliable method of installed waterproofing can be called a steel caisson. In this case, the structure of the walls and floor of the basement is sheathed from the inside with sheets of steel 4-6 mm thick. The option is very expensive, so it is extremely rarely used.
Brick walls are sometimes erected outside, but in most cases this method is used in conjunction with the pasting or coating option. Brick is more likely not to protect the foundation from moisture, but to protect waterproofing from mechanical damage.
Blind area device
Do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing in this case involves using the following blind area materials to protect the structure from the outside from atmospheric moisture:
Making a blind area - concrete;
- asphalt concrete;
- clay;
- paving slabs;
- diffusion membranes.
The choice of method for making a blind area depends on the preferences of the future owner of the house, the architectural design and the availability of materials. The cheapest option for a blind area would be to lay it out of concrete or asphalt. This option does not have an attractive appearance, but it allows you to protect the foundation without much labor. In addition, savings are achieved on raw materials for manufacturing. The construction of a blind area made of concrete or asphalt is popular in the mass construction of multi-apartment residential buildings and administrative and public buildings.
Waterproofing technology depending on the type of foundation
Each type of building support requires certain protection options. Before waterproofing the foundation, you need to find out what is required for the full range of measures.
Strip foundation protection
Waterproofing of strip foundations differs for monolithic and prefabricated versions. First, let's look at the prefabricated version. To prevent damage to the underground walls of the house and flooding of the basement, the following measures will be required:
- installation of a reinforced seam between factory-made foundation slabs and concrete blocks of the basement walls;
- laying rolled material in the first seam between the blocks, which is located below the basement floor level;
- the rolled material is mounted along the edge of the foundation at the junction of the walls and the supporting structure;
- vertical insulation of the underground part of the tape from the outside;
- blind area device.
Belt protection It is important to note that at the junction of foundation slabs and concrete blocks, materials based on bitumen binder cannot be laid. This can lead to displacement of elements relative to each other. Here, only a thickened concrete joint is suitable. Insulation along the edge of the foundation is necessary so that different moisture content of the material of the supporting parts of the building and wall fences does not lead to destruction. For horizontal insulation, pasting methods are used.
Vertical insulation is best done from the outside, since this will not only protect the room, but also the load-bearing elements. During new construction, walls can be treated with pasting or coating materials. Repair work is being carried out from the inside. In this case, the penetrating or injection type is used.
If you need to carry out a set of waterproofing works for a monolithic tape, then it is worth considering the following measures:
- vertical insulation;
- waterproofing along the edge of the foundation;
- blind area device.
Materials are selected in the same way as for the prefabricated version.
Protection of columnar and pile foundations
A simple method of moisture protection The simplest type of moisture protection is used here. You only need to make insulation along the edge of the foundation. Its location depends on the material of the grillage. If the piping is made of the same material as the foundation, then the roll materials are laid at the point of contact between the grillage and the walls. You may want to consider another option. For example, a wooden house rests on metal piles. In this case, the lower crown of the walls will serve as a grillage, so the insulating layer is laid on the heads of the supporting elements.
Foundation slab protection
To protect against moisture, the following measures will need to be taken:
- concrete preparation from lean concrete to protect the slab from underground water and leveling the base;
- waterproofing for concrete preparation;
- protection from external moisture.
Waterproofing of the foundation slab To produce the second layer when constructing a slab, roll methods are used. It is best to focus on modern materials, since after pouring the slab, it is almost impossible to monitor the condition of such insulation or carry out repairs. For small buildings with a low degree of responsibility and low water saturation of the soil, polyethylene film is often used.
To protect the slab from moisture that may enter from above, it must be treated with penetrating compounds. Sometimes in private housing construction they resort to using the following method: a solution for penetrating insulation is introduced into the concrete composition.
Also, after pouring the slab, it will be necessary to provide for the laying of rolled material in places where the walls support.
Before you properly waterproof the foundation (slab strips, piles, pillars), you need to carefully study the issue. It is important to use high-quality materials. If you save at this stage of construction, you can spend a large amount of money on repairs during operation.
Waterproofing the floor in the bathroom, materials for which can be found in a large assortment today in any hardware store, is a mandatory procedure before starting finishing work and installing plumbing fixtures.
The bathroom is the wettest room in both a private house and an apartment, therefore, no matter what material they are made of, they need high-quality waterproofing, otherwise during the operation of the room, leaks may occur at the junctions of walls and floors, in places where utility lines pass through the ceilings . Not only is there a high risk of flooding the rooms below. As you know, moisture entering a confined space inevitably contributes to the formation of mold and mildew, which gradually begin to destroy the structure of the floor and walls, lead to a persistent unpleasant smell of dampness, and can cause a number of diseases in people living in the apartment.
Main types of floor waterproofing
There are many varieties of waterproofing materials made on various bases and in various forms. To choose the most suitable option, you should consider in advance their characteristics and technology for working with them.
So, according to the type of application, waterproofing is divided into the following types:
- Coating.
- Pasting.
- Impregnating.
- Cast.
- Plastering.
It is difficult to say which of these waterproofing materials is better for a bathroom floor, since there is no consensus on this matter even among experts. The choice of material and technology for its installation is made taking into account the characteristics of the surface that should be waterproofed, and the allotted time frame for completing the work.
Coating type waterproofing
Compositions for coating (painting) waterproofing are the easiest to use Coating compositions for waterproofing are produced on different bases and can be:
- Water-based, acrylic based;
- Bitumen-rubber;
- Bitumen-polymer;
- Cement-polymer;
- Polyurethane;
Bitumen-based compositions are made with additives from various fillers and organic solvents. Fillers make mastics more elastic, as they use plasticizers, crumb rubber or latex.
Mastics have excellent adhesion and can be applied to both concrete and wood surfaces.
It should be noted that bitumen-based materials have a number of disadvantages, which include:
— possible cracking and chipping as a result of temperature fluctuations;
— biological corrosion;
— unpleasant odor during waterproofing work.
But, despite These are the shortcomings of coating compounds; they are most often used to insulate bathroom floors, since this is the most affordable way to create protection against moisture penetration.
The cost of coating waterproofing mastics is quite affordable, but its service life is no more than five to six years.
Materials made on the basis of polymers have virtually no negative qualities, so they can be used without fear.
The advantages of coating compositions include the ease of applying the material to the surface of the floor and the lower part of the walls, as well as to corners and joints using a regular brush.
Material consumption depends on the original quality waterproofing surface and number of layers. Typically, the recommended amount per 1 m² area is indicated by the manufacturer of the composition.
How to apply coating (painting) waterproofing
There is nothing complicated in installing this type of waterproofing - the main thing is to do all the work carefully and adhere to the developed technology.
If the coating composition is purchased in dry form, then the technology for its production can be found on the packaging. The mixture must be homogeneous. If a liquid component is included in the dry composition, it is first mixed with water and only then poured into the dry mass and mixed into a paste-like mastic. This type of waterproofing is called two-component. When the mixture is ready, you need to immediately get to work.
- The first thing to do before applying any coating is to thoroughly clean the surface of fine dust and larger debris. The work is carried out using a vacuum cleaner.
- Next, you need to remove absorbed grease stains or paint residues from the surfaces; if there are any, clean them down to “healthy” concrete. The same is done with loose areas where erosion of the concrete slab is noticeable. After cleaning, dust and debris are removed again.
- The next step is application (of a deep penetration composition). The primer can be poured onto the floors and spread using a roller.
Corners and surfaces around pipe outlets in the wall and floor drains must be treated with a primer using a brush so as not to leave untreated areas. After the first layer of solution has dried, another one is applied.
- Next, you can proceed to applying the waterproofing composition. Work begins by covering the corners and all joints of the floor and wall, and pipe passages through the ceilings with mastic.
- On freshly applied The mastic is covered with a sealing tape. It is glued with the uncured composition to the walls and floor, so that the joint between it is completely closed, which is always a weak point in case of leaks. A prerequisite is that the tape must be completely straightened, have no waves, kinks, folds, and no voids are allowed under it.
When joining strips, the overlap must be at least 50 ÷ 70 mm (during initial laying, the overlap area must be coated with mastic.).
In the bathroom, not only the joints of the floor and walls, but the corners of the walls are processed in the same way, to a height of at least 150 ÷ 200 mm.
Another layer of waterproofing mastic is applied on top of the tape.
- Next, it is necessary to stick sealing membranes around the points of water supply and drainage, that is, pipes or sleeves coming out of the walls and floors with communications laid through them.
Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing around pipes, holes, sleeves in the ceiling, etc. - Then the entire remaining surface of the bathroom floor and walls is covered with waterproofing mastic to a height of 150÷200 mm.
By the way, qualified craftsmen recommend not sparing material and applying the composition at least 500 ÷ 700 mm from the floor, especially around the bathtub and washbasin - this will protect the walls from from dampness and mold formation.
Do not spare material and at the same time insulate the walls near the bathtub and sink When applied to the floor surface, the mastic does not spread thinly - it should form a thick, uniform layer of equal thickness, approximately 2 mm.
- Waterproofing is carried out, if necessary, in two or even three layers. Education not allowed uncovered mastic"islands". Each layer is applied in a perpendicular direction relative to the previous, already dried layer, approximately five to six hours later.
- When the work on waterproofing the floor is completed, you can begin finishing only after 24 hours.
To conclude this section, here is an example of performing coating waterproofing in a bathroom.
Prices for coating waterproofing
Coating waterproofing
Video: the work of a master waterproofing a bathroom
Plaster waterproofing
Plaster waterproofing also belongs to the coating type, but it needs to be distinguished separately, since the work uses materials that differ from the rest in their composition.
Plaster mixtures include components such as gypsum, cement and polymers. If the bitumen used for waterproofing the floor, at a temperature of 0 degrees, begins to lose its elasticity, becomes brittle, and cracks can form on it, then temperature changes are not dangerous for plaster compositions.
There are many plaster waterproofing mixtures from various manufacturers on sale. Particularly popular are the compositions of the companies “Knauf” and “Ceresit”.
- For example, the KNAUF FLACHENDICHT waterproofing composition includes a component such as synthesized latex, which gives the material special elasticity. Therefore, the layer applied to the surface, after polymerization, retains its qualities at temperatures from - 18 to + 55 ° C.
This composition does not require heating after mixing and is applied to the surface immediately.
- Another option for high-quality plaster waterproofing is a mixture of the Ceresit CR-65 brand, which has excellent adhesion to surfaces, provided that it is applied to a surface treated with a primer.
One of the most popular compositions is Hydroizol Ceresit CR-65 Plaster mixtures can also be applied using a brush or roller. The joints of the planes must be taped with sealing tape. It is advisable to choose all materials from the same manufacturer - they are fully adapted to each other.
Prices for plaster waterproofing
Plaster waterproofing
Pasted waterproofing
This method of protecting floors from moisture penetration can be called the most effective, but proper installation of materials will be somewhat more difficult than with coating compounds. The most popular materials for adhesive waterproofing: roofing felt, isoplast, ecoflex, iselast, mostoplast, technoNIKOL, hydroisol.
The materials are not affected by temperature changes, and if they are laid correctly, according to existing technologies, they will protect the floor surface for many years.
Waterproofing is produced in the form of sheets or rolls of waterproof material with good elasticity. But despite this, it is not easy to install them yourself in difficult places, for example, in the corners of a room.
Two types of pasting materials are made. Some of them fit on on carried adhesive, others are self-adhesive.
For installation of the first type, bitumen mastic is most often used as an adhesive base. On self-adhesive canvases, in principle, the same mastic is applied to the back surface and protected with a special film, which is removed only during installation.
The most widespread Until recently, the type of adhesive waterproofing was ordinary roofing felt, but with the advent of more advanced materials, it is used less and less. Modern types may have a polymer or bitumen base, so they differ somewhat in their characteristics.
- Polymer material consists of films and membranes made of vulcanized rubber. Most often they are already covered with an adhesive composition.
What sets them apart is:
- small thickness;
— long service life;
— excellent mechanical strength;
— no shrinkage;
- resistance to vibration.
- Bitumen-based waterproofing is used much more often, as it is more affordable. Such materials, for example, include waterproofing, made from fiberglass impregnated with bitumen, and a plasticizer makes it resistant to cracking and gives it flexibility. This material is not biodegradable and will not develop mold.
It can be produced in single- and double-sided versions.
Double-sided material suitable for creating multi-layer coatings Double-sided material differs from single-sided material in the presence of a polymer protective film on both sides - it melts when exposed to high temperatures during installation. This material is used when a multi-layer waterproofing coating is installed.
The one-sided material is equipped with a protective coating consisting of mineral chips. – it is usually used for the external covering of soft roofs.
Pasted waterproofing is used not only for concrete coatings, but also for wooden flooring, on which it is laid without melting - on bitumen mastic.
Laying adhesive waterproofing
Before laying the lining material, the surface of the bathroom floor must be prepared more thoroughly than when applying coating compounds to it - this nuance must be observed to create long-term and reliable protection of the floors.
The work is carried out in the following order:
- Bathroom floors should not have even small protrusions, so they must be removed. If necessary, the surface is leveled with compounds. Then the floor is thoroughly dried and cleaned of dust.
- Next, the surface of the floor and the lower part of the walls are covered with primers, which must also dry well.
- Then a layer of mastic approximately 2 mm thick is applied to the surface of the floor and walls to a height of 200 mm. Mastic can be rubber or polymer-bitumen based.
- Next comes the waterproofing sticker. The first canvas that will be placed on the wall is laid with a bend, but is glued first to the floor surface, and then to the wall.
The mastic is heated until softened using a gas burner. The surface is covered with a waterproofing sheet, which is then rolled using a roller.
The next sheet is laid on the already laid waterproofing strip with an overlap of 80 ÷ 100 mm. Then come the third and subsequent stripes.
- If you plan to lay the material in two layers, then mastic is applied again on top of the first and waterproofing is laid. The second layer is laid in such a way that the middle of the canvases is at the joints of the strips of the lower layer, completely covering them.
The process of installing TechnoNIKOL is exactly the same, but its advantage is that the bitumen layer is already present on the material. When laying, all that remains is to heat it until the protective polymer film melts and roll it to the surface with a roller. It is very important not to overheat the material, as this will cause the waterproofing to become brittle and its service life will be significantly reduced.
Hot styling is not a good idea, since in small enclosed spaces it is recommended to avoid working with a burner. When heated, waterproofing material and mastic emit a sharp and persistent odor that does not erode well. In addition, working independently with a burner without proper experience is quite dangerous, but if you decide to stick the waterproofing in this way, then it is better to entrust this process to specialists.
To do the work yourself, it is better to use self-adhesive sheets that do not require the use of a torch - this installation is also called the “cold” method. For such a coating, the concrete floor must be treated with a primer - a special composition made on a bitumen basis.
Using it, you can create an almost seamless hermetic coating, since the canvases, overlapped by 100 mm, are tightly glued together. Before fastening them, the protective film is removed from the adhesive layer, and the canvas is immediately pressed against the already laid waterproofing sheet.
When using adhesive material, special attention should be paid to water pipes and water drainage holes. For them, holes are cut in the waterproofing into which rubber seals are inserted. The contact areas are coated with polyurethane or silicone sealant.
Cast waterproofing
Cast waterproofing can also be made from different materials. As the name suggests, installation of these compositions on the surface occurs by pouring them cold or hot.
Hot waterproofing
Hot waterproofing can be asphalt-polymer or asphalt. Consumable materials for it are hot bitumen, asphalt concrete and pitch. This material shows good performance indicators - elasticity, high bending resistance, strength and reliability.
The materials are poured onto surfaces where work has been done in advance to seal the seams using sealants and mastics.
This type of waterproofing is almost never used for bathrooms in apartments - they are more suitable for the same rooms equipped in private houses.
Laying hot waterproofing
To properly perform hot waterproofing, you need to proceed in the following order:
- The floor surface must be thoroughly cleaned of various contaminants that could remain from repair work.
- Detected cracks, as well as plane joints, are filled with sealing compounds.
- After this, the floor must be thoroughly dried - for this, infrared heaters, gas burners and other fairly powerful appliances are often used.
- Priming is being done. For this type of waterproofing, hot bitumen is used as a primer.
- After this, the primed working surface around the perimeter is separated by formwork. It is necessary if waterproof You only need part of the room.
- The waterproofing is heating up mass - temperature its heating is indicated on the packaging.
- The hot composition is carefully poured onto the surface, evenly distributed over it using a squeegee and left until completely hardened.
- If necessary, several layers of waterproofing are poured, but each subsequent one is poured only after the previous one has completely dried.
Cold cast waterproofing
Cold types of waterproofing include materials such as “liquid” rubber and “liquid” glass. The technology for working with these compounds is similar, but their components differ significantly.
"Liquid rubber
This waterproofing material is made from bitumen and polymer additives, which make the resulting emulsion more wear-resistant and resistant to external influences.
Packaging "liquid rubber" Calcium chloride is used as a fixer for bitumen-polymer mixtures, which reduces the density of the material, which makes it possible to install “liquid rubber” using spraying. Before adding to the emulsion, the fixative is diluted with water in proportions of 1:10, and after that the final composition is mixed.
Prices for liquid rubber Apiflex
Sprayed liquid rubber Apiflex
In order for the coating to be applied successfully, it is necessary to adhere to the technology, prepare the base for it well and carry out work at a temperature not lower than + 3 ÷ 5 ° C.
“Liquid” rubber is produced in different consistencies, which allows it to be applied to surfaces in various ways:
- The pouring installation method is the most popular, as it does not require special equipment, and the composition fills all small cracks and creates an even, smooth coating.
- Spraying is a more complex method, as it requires special equipment and skills to work with it. When waterproofing is applied correctly by spraying, it turns out to be of higher quality than when using other methods, since the composition is supplied under pressure and fills not only cracks, but also microscopic pores of the base.
- Painting (coating) technology is the most affordable of all three existing ones. The application differs little from the usual coating insulation, which was already mentioned above. For painting application, waterproofing is produced in the form of a paste or solution.
After treating the floor with “liquid” rubber, a sealed elastic film should form on the surface, which will reliably protect the floor from moisture.
The table shows the main characteristics of this material:
| Material parameters | Indicators |
|---|---|
| Tensile Strength (MPa) | 2E-3 |
| Elongation at break (%) | 1500 |
| Adhesion strength to concrete surface (MPa) | 1 |
| Density (kg/m³) | 1000÷1100 |
| Amount of non-volatile substances (%) | 57÷65 |
| Curing time of the composition after its application (hours) | 24 |
| Maximum water absorption in the first 24 hours,% | 0.5 |
| Water permeability at a pressure of 0.01 MPa in 24 hours | No wet spot |
| Average consumption of the main component in the manufacture of floor covering material is 1 mm, in dry matter kg/m² | 1.61 |
Technical and operational characteristics of different brands may vary slightly. But due to the fact that all the components of “liquid” rubber are environmentally friendly, during operation they do not emit harmful fumes and are safe for humans.
The positive qualities of all types of “liquid” rubber include:
- High degree of adhesion to various surfaces.
- Chemical resistance.
- Possibility of applying waterproofing to old cleaned floors.
- Formation of a continuous, seamless surface.
- High elasticity and strength of the material.
A clear example of the high elasticity and strength of “liquid rubber” - Endurance under temperature changes.
- The composition is odorless during installation, so it is suitable for waterproofing indoor areas.
- Long service life.
How to apply “liquid” rubber
There is no point in describing the work with the coating type of “liquid rubber” - it is no different from ordinary coating waterproofing. In order not to repeat ourselves, it is worth considering only the technologies of spraying and pouring waterproofing composition.
The first step is T t conventional surface preparation. It is carried out in the same way as for any type of waterproofing. The main condition is the evenness of the floor surface, without protruding fragments, and its cleanliness.
Before applying all types of “liquid” rubber, the surfaces must also be primed. As a primer, a similar composition of a polymer-bitumen solution, which will not only create excellent adhesion for the coating, but also enhance its waterproofing properties. The primer is applied using a roller or brush.
The next step, after the soil has completely dried, is the application of waterproofing material. Spraying of “liquid” rubber is carried out using special equipment. The compressor unit is connected to containers with a bitumen-polymer composition and fixative - solution calcium chloride. Both components are fed into the sprayer at once, which are mixed and applied to the surface under pressure, forming an elastic membrane 2 ÷ 3 mm thick. This process is usually trusted to specialists who have the necessary equipment and experience working with it.
Liquid rubber spraying process The pouring method consists of pouring the finished material onto the floor surface and distributing it using a needle roller, spatula or squeegee. Waterproofing is applied not only to the floor surface, but also, as in previous cases, to the lower part of the wall and around the water pipes.
The approximate consumption of this material per 1 m² is 2.8 ÷ 3 liters. Complete drying of the coating occurs after two days. After this time, you can proceed to further work on the floor installation.
"Liquid glass"
Knowing the characteristics and technology of applying various waterproofing materials, it will be easier to choose one that suits all parameters and will be available for independent work.
To preserve the integrity of finishing materials and other structural elements of the floor, it is waterproofed. The absence of moisture on protected objects will prevent the development of fungus and corrosion on them, and will help increase their service life.
If the home is located in an old house where renovations have been carried out several times, then the most successful solution would be to dismantle the entire floor covering down to the concrete screed or base. If the floor is equipped with wooden floors, and they were installed a long time ago, then only an expert can determine the need to dismantle them, since they can be decrepit, which can make the new renovation short-lived.
The floor must be leveled. To create a smooth base, a special repair compound is used, and sometimes self-leveling mixtures are used. There is no need to use expensive waterproofing materials to seal irregularities and small cracks. However, the floor should be as level as possible so that the owners have the opportunity to use floor coverings sold in rolls, or quickly install the floor using a polymer self-leveling composition.
If waterproofing the floor is part of a large-scale renovation, during which redevelopment will be carried out, you must first dismantle all unnecessary partitions and protrusions, and only then carry out waterproofing. The layer must be applied hermetically, covering the entire floor or all possible parts of it. Excess items and old structures will not allow the coating to be applied completely, so they can greatly reduce the quality and usefulness of the waterproofing as a whole.
You cannot skimp on materials for waterproofing and ensuring a high level of work. The purpose of the protective coating is to prevent moisture from entering the room, which is necessary to prevent the accumulation of dampness and deterioration of the quality of building materials. For apartment residents, this aspect is especially important, since if a significant amount of water leaks, for example, in the bathroom, a quarrel with neighbors may occur, and there is a possibility of imposing obligations to pay compensation for damaged furniture.
According to building standards, the floor in the bathroom and kitchen should be located several centimeters lower than in other rooms. Moisture is retained in a limited area, allowing it to be quickly eliminated. To comply with this parameter, they make a step, sometimes they limit themselves to filling a special border.
How to choose the right waterproofing material
Depending on the type of floor, the reliability of the waterproofing and the method of its application, the following options are distinguished:
- materials sold in rolls or intended for gluing;
- compositions and mastics that require a brush or roller to apply;
- potting mixtures;
- backfilling substances;
- penetrating waterproofing, which simultaneously protects the floor from aggressive environments;
- plaster;
- polymer compositions for spraying.
For do-it-yourself waterproofing installation, the most suitable are: coating materials, which can be quickly applied, and you will have to wait a maximum of a few days for drying, and plaster options that are ready for further application of the floor covering the next day. It is more difficult to use rolled materials, so non-professionals should first learn how to install such waterproofing, and then carry out large-scale work in their own home.
Master the technology of use penetrating waterproofing quite simple, but you will have to read the instructions and strictly follow the instructions, covering the correct distribution of the material, caring for the drying coating, and follow all prescribed procedures. In an apartment, the use of penetrating compounds is undesirable, since the base of the floor should be heavily moistened before applying them. Such an event may cause water leakage to neighbors and related proceedings.
Bulk waterproofing used if it is possible to create a screed. It should be remembered that its layer will be quite thick and can visually reduce the height of the ceilings after repairs. It is easy to sprinkle the granules on the floor in an even layer and fill them with water, the amount will be indicated on the package. Once water enters, the granules will turn into a paste resembling a gel, which will prevent further water from flowing through.
They do not need protection from water, since they themselves are not able to retain it. They are often called 3D floors. They look beautiful, but creating them yourself is quite difficult. It is necessary to follow the application instructions written on the packaging, which without explanation from a professional can be misunderstood, however, with care and patience, you can create an unusual coating combined with waterproofing in one go. Sprayed polymer coatings require special equipment. You need to stock up on special clothing; it is advisable to see how professionals apply this coating.
It is necessary to distinguish finishing materials from waterproofing. For example, floor tiles are not a reliable barrier against water leakage. Even if polyurethane or silicone grout is used, which can be used to treat seams, if a significant amount of liquid gets on the floor, there is a risk of it quickly flowing to neighbors or being absorbed into building materials not intended to protect against moisture.
Varnish and oil paint do not have waterproofing properties. At first they can be a reliable barrier, but after 7-10 years microcracks appear, then significant cracking of the material is visible, so before applying them you should use any material to ensure durable protection from moisture.
Leveling the floor before laying insulation
When using a self-leveling compound, you should carefully level the surface of the concrete base before laying the roll insulation. There should be no gaps between the concrete and the waterproofing coating, so leveling is carried out carefully. The base of the floor is completely cleaned of dirt; you can use a vacuum cleaner. A clean surface should be primed in one layer.
Depending on the qualities of the material, the dry mixture is diluted with water or liquid, which must be purchased separately. The composition is evenly applied to the entire surface of the floor; gaps should not be allowed. If there is a risk of the formation of small air bubbles that may remain inside the coating, the waterproofing is rolled with a roller equipped with a continuous layer of needle nozzles. It simultaneously participates in the correct distribution of the solution and removes all bubbles.
Applying mastic
To protect the floor from moisture with adhesive material, you will need to additionally purchase an adhesive or special mastic. Professionals use an additional coating for the mastic, which differs depending on its composition. For the polymer variety, you can choose options from PVC film, fiberglass or polyisobutene. If bitumen is used, then brizol, hydroisol and the like can serve as an additional coating.
The prepared base is completely covered with bitumen emulsion. Its use is recommended, since its composition is the most neutral and does not harm the body of workers, and subsequently the residents of the building. It is made using ordinary water; after mixing the solution, harmful solvents do not evaporate. The primer must be applied in two equal layers; according to the rules, the second is done perpendicular to the first.
While the primer is drying, you need to stick a special tape, it should cover the corners, joints with the walls around the perimeter. During gluing, the tape is deeply immersed in the material. After this stage of work, the areas covered with tape are once again carefully coated with primer.
Laying
When the preparatory layer has completely dried, laying the waterproofing layer begins. Self-adhesive carpets just need to be well leveled and, using a little force, pressed to the floor using a roller or your hands.
Waterproofing carpets of a standard type can be fixed by connecting a hair dryer; otherwise, a torch is used. The bottom coating melts a little from the outside, after which it is immediately pressed to the base. The overlaps should be straightened; if necessary, loose or crumpled strips can be re-attached.
When the material has formed a flat surface, the strips can be secured by welding. During the work, you need to make an overlap on the walls, preferably at least 25 cm. After completing the screed or finishing coating, all excess is easily trimmed off. The corners can be additionally glued with a second layer of material, forming patches; they must be reliably sealed.
The result of the work is an absolutely smooth, sealed coating through which liquid cannot seep. Pouring a concrete screed is allowed only after the adhesive or bitumen mastic has completely dried, which usually takes no more than a day.
Mastic may not be suitable for heated floors, since with prolonged heating it can evaporate an unpleasant, characteristic odor. It is safe to use it in the hallway, but other substances should be selected for waterproofing other rooms.
They are produced dry, similar in consistency to powders, sometimes in the form of mastics and pastes. Before carrying out work, the mixture is diluted with water or emulsion. Liquid waterproofing or an ointment-like consistency is initially sold in a form ready for immediate application after opening the can.
The mixture is applied in several ways:
- with a fly brush, which is attached to a stick. It can be applied this way if the consistency of the solution resembles paint or is more liquid;
- with a spatula equipped with teeth. Suitable if the coating has a denser composition.
Coating waterproofing materials, depending on their consistency, vary in scope.
- Liquid compounds must be applied in thick layers, completely sealing the space, at least 2 times. Most often they are made from oxidized petroleum bitumen with a fairly small thickness: about 1 mm and above. A screed is usually poured onto the coating, so after it has dried, you need to check that there is no damage to the base and that there are no wet places left. The surface should not be contaminated, so the next layer should be applied as quickly as possible. If this is not possible, then the coating can be covered with film or ensure that it is kept clean.
- Bitumen-containing pastes applied in a layer of 3 mm. They can simultaneously serve as high-quality insulation and replace concrete screed. The material is applied in a fairly thick layer, so it requires reinforcement. Before application, a PVC mesh is applied and secured to the entire floor surface. The coating is laid directly on it.
After creating the first layer, you need to wait for it to dry completely; the time for its drying is indicated on the production packaging. When the surface hardens, a second layer is applied, preferably perpendicular to the first. Sometimes the instructions call for applying a third layer to a still wet surface. In this case, the master needs to purchase special shoes or attachments with thin but frequent spikes so as not to damage the material.
The base is elastic polyester, fiberglass or fiberglass. Bitumen is applied on both sides of the material. To ensure reliable adhesion to the subfloor, an adhesive composition is located at the bottom. High-quality waterproofing includes a special component on the top, which is activated when interacting with the finishing adhesive, improving its effect.
Sometimes it is necessary to independently sprinkle the entire top layer of already laid waterproofing with medium-grained sand. It increases the reliability of adhesion to the glue. Once the insulation material has hardened sufficiently, it can be swept off the covering.
There are two groups of materials that can be applied using glue. One of them is fixed with a torch or a hair dryer. The second is equipped with a system that facilitates installation. It is enough to separate the working part from the film and stick it on a horizontal surface, having previously leveled it.
High-quality waterproofing of the floor allows you to protect its structure from moisture, which can destroy or damage some of its components. For apartment owners, protection against water penetration through the floor will help avoid flooding of neighbors and, as a result, the obligation to pay money for repairs.
Video - How to waterproof a floor
Video - Waterproofing the floor
After the service life of bituminous mastics or roofing felt has been exhausted, waterproofing the old foundation of a house becomes relevant to increase the service life of power structures. In this case, it is necessary to protect the side surfaces of the foundation from soil moisture, groundwater and wastewater, lay drains around the perimeter, and make a horizontal shut-off waterproofing between the foundation and the walls. If you are interested in horizontal cut-off waterproofing, then you are interested, if vertical, then read on.
If at the construction stage they forgot about waterproofing the foundation of the house or did it incorrectly, or the old protective coating has expired, it is necessary to carry out a set of measures again to solve the following problems:
- cutting off the walls from the basement part of the foundation - the structural materials of the housing frame draw moisture from reinforced concrete structures and collapse much faster;
- protection of reinforcement from corrosion, concrete from destruction, increasing in volume by water, when freezing inside the structure of the material.
For example, if a cottage is built without a horizontal waterproofing carpet, the lower crowns of the frame rot and the brickwork collapses. In the absence of waterproofing of the outer edges of the foundation, the annual opening of cracks in concrete increases by 0.2 - 0.5 mm.
Attention! If the home has a basement, then the problem can be solved from the inside, but for MZLF you will have to expose the tape from the outside to provide access to concrete surfaces.
Vertical external waterproofing
The main difficulty when carrying out waterproofing repairs is the inaccessibility of concrete surfaces. In addition, the foundation must be protected from the outside. Therefore, it is necessary to destroy the blind area and dismantle the façade and basement cladding.
After the tape is exposed, the foundation can be waterproofed using several technologies: plastering, pasting over or coating with appropriate materials to protect the house from destruction.
Coating materials
Waterproofing the foundation with your own hands by coating with epoxy, polymer, or allows you to obtain a continuous film layer:
- the film is removed from the surface - chemical milling by sequential application of a cleaner, an activator, sandblasting, cleaning an angle grinder with a metal brush;
- the seams are deepened - grooves 2.5 x 2.5 cm minimum, in order to lay a bentonite strand in them;
- surface treatment – 2 – 3 layers of mastic on top of a primer, which serves to increase the surface roughness.
After this, the house will receive protection from the foundation and walls getting wet. The disadvantage is the low mechanical strength of the film, the integrity of which can be damaged even by stones present in the backfill materials. Therefore, mastics often serve as the bottom layer of complex waterproofing. Before final drying, membranes, polyethylene films are glued onto them, or roll materials are fused.
Pasting materials
You can waterproof the foundation of a house with your own hands - with films or membranes. In the absence of plantar insulation, the rolls are launched to the bottom of the trench (10 - 20 cm) and fused from the bottom up. The films are fixed to the surface with a special polymer glue; membranes and hydroglass insulation can have a self-adhesive layer.
Waterproofing with roll materials.
If the groundwater level (GWL) is high or there is a possibility of its seasonal rise, three layers of material are required. If the groundwater level is low, two layers of waterproofing carpet are sufficient. The main nuances of the technology are:
- longitudinal seam of adjacent sheets - overlap 10 cm minimum;
- transverse seam - important when building up rolls for buried strip foundations, it is 20 - 30 cm, the top roll covers the bottom one to avoid leaks, similar to laying roofing materials;
- The arrangement of sheets is only vertical.
To increase strength, a thin reinforcing mesh (polymer, galvanized, usually used for plaster coatings) is installed between the layers of adhesive and coating insulation.
Attention! If roll waterproofing is used independently, the seams are treated with mastic. When performing complex protection, the mastic layer is under the hydroglass insulation by default; the seams do not need to be processed additionally.
The disadvantage still lies in the insufficient mechanical strength of the coating. The problem is completely solved by classic or crush-sliding thermal insulation. In the first case, the surface is covered with high-density polystyrene foam. An additional horizontal layer of EPS is laid under the blind area at a level of 30–40 cm from the ground. This makes it possible to completely compensate for swelling, retaining geothermal heat in the soil layers adjacent to the foundation. In the second option, the EPS surface is additionally covered with polyethylene (attached only at the top to the wall). After that, sheets of soft thermal insulation PSB-S (foam plastic) are pressed against the polyethylene with the backfill material of the trench without fixing it to the wall. When swelling, the outer layer wrinkles. It moves upward along the slippery film and returns to its original position in the spring.
Waterproof plasters
Do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing can be made in the form of a plaster layer. Cement-sand mortar is not suitable for these purposes; special dry mixtures with polymer additives are used that clog the pores of concrete in the top layer:
- a plaster mesh is mounted on the surface;
- the surface is wetted, then the first layer of 0.5 - 1 cm is applied;
- After drying, finishing plastering is carried out to a total layer thickness of 2 - 3 cm.
Waterproofing the foundation with special plaster mixtures.
This is a budget solution for a country house in comparison with coating and pasting technologies.
Attention: If there is heavy rainfall in the operating region, or there is a high groundwater level in the area, buildings are required. Drains are placed at the level of the base of the foundation and drain water by gravity into an underground container.
Internal waterproofing
If there is a basement floor in a building, waterproofing the foundation of the house from the inside is more often used. Films, rolls and membrane materials are practically useless here:
- after the concrete gets wet, they peel off from the structural material;
- mechanical fixation is not possible;
- the effectiveness of protection is extremely low.
Injection waterproofing
From the inside, injection waterproofing of the foundation is often used, which can be done with your own hands only with sufficient practice. The difficulty lies in determining where to drill through holes in the supporting structure, which weaken its strength. The technology looks like:
- preparation - surfaces are examined for cracks and leaks;
- sealing cracks - with compounds, for example Penepurform or any other analogues;
- holes - holes along the diameter of the injectors according to the diagram at an angle of 45 degrees;
- injections - packers are inserted into the pits, with which repair mixtures are injected.
Injection waterproofing of the foundation from the inside.
The components are mixed before injection, operations are carried out after the concrete has been heated to 35 degrees. The disadvantage is the lack of necessary equipment in the arsenal of a home craftsman. Even its rental costs more than external waterproofing after digging trenches.
Volumetric waterproofing
The manufacturer Penetron and many others produce repair mixtures for any operating conditions. All work can be done with your own hands to make all reinforced concrete structures of the house absolutely waterproof. The principle of operation of volumetric waterproofing is as follows:
- sealing of input nodes of engineering systems, connections, interfaces, joints, seams with Penecrit material;
- elimination of leaks (pressure groundwater) using Waterplug, Peneplag mixtures;
- laying Penerab hydraulic seals in the seams of FBS blocks or treating them with PeneProxy glue or Peneband tape;
- surface treatment with Penetron product.
When the components of the mixture react chemically with cement stone, a reverse osmosis reaction occurs. The molecular composition of concrete changes, after which the structural material acquires new properties (water resistance) throughout the entire thickness of the structure.
If you impregnate the lower rows of brickwork with Penetron, after pre-treating the seams with Peneproxy glue, they will completely replace the horizontal waterproofing of the walls. Moreover, over time, materials only gain strength, and do not lose it from contact with water. Therefore, the resource becomes unlimited - a broken piece of concrete will remain completely waterproof until completely destroyed mechanically.
The same manufacturer has products for injection (Penesplitsil based on epoxy, bitumen resins), plastering of defective surfaces (Brace, which gives structural strength to concrete, stone, and brickwork).
Moreover, the company’s specialists have developed the most popular standard solutions:
- foundation tape made of FBS blocks - Penecrete in the seams, Penetron over the entire surface of the concrete;
- brick wall from the inside - two layers of Penetron on top of mesh-reinforced plaster;
- outside masonry – 2 layers of Penetron on cement-sand plaster;
- pressure leak – Peneplug + Penecrit (as a plug 2.5 x 2.5 cm);
- input of engineering systems - expansion of grooves up to 2.5 cm to a depth of 4 - 6 cm, layer; Peneplag/Waterplag, Penebar gasket, Penetron putty;
- floor/wall junctions - 2.5 x 2.5 cm grooves at 45 degrees to the vertical, filled with Penecrit.
Attention! Volumetric waterproofing with penetrating compounds (Penetron is not the only manufacturer of such compounds) reduces repair labor costs by an order of magnitude. Insulating external surfaces from the inside of the basement is the optimal solution, eliminating the need for excavation work.
Horizontal cut-off waterproofing
In the design of an old cottage, the wall rests on a foundation, which makes it much more difficult to lay roofing felt or hydroglass insulation with your own hands. To waterproof the foundation of a house, you will have to perform a set of repairs:
- exposure of the foundation - a trench close to the reinforced concrete structure with a depth to its base;
- unloading is usually partial, longitudinal or transverse beams are installed;
- dividing the perimeter - every meter the tape is separated by grippers;
- removal of wall material - cutting out an angle grinder with a disc on brickwork stone or the crown of a log house with a chainsaw;
- screed - M100 solution (preferably with a penetrating additive);
- waterproofing - two layers of rolled material, the ends are bent to create an overlap in the adjacent area;
- wedging - replacing the lower crown or row of brickwork, filling the cracks with wedges, dry mortar (M100 and above).
The option of horizontal waterproofing with penetrating compounds is also possible, read. But injection horizontal waterproofing is more popular; it is done in a similar way, only holes are drilled in the plane between the base and the masonry, and the mixture is fed into these holes. This creates a layer impregnated with waterproofing.
If the crowns and lower rows of the masonry are intact in an old built dwelling, the building is simply lifted with jacks in compliance with the technical conditions:
- vertical movement of the long sides no more than 5 cm at a time;
- preliminary tying of log house walls with vertical boards (two self-tapping screws in each crown)
Attention: Work on adjacent grips is carried out after the mortar used in the screed has gained strength.
Thus, in a building in use, waterproofing of the foundation can be done in several ways, depending on the presence of a basement in use, groundwater level. All techniques are suitable for repairing the waterproof insulation layer on concrete house structures intended to work in aggressive environments underground.
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Experienced people think of houses with a ground floor, in which all communications, distribution units and manifolds can be placed, a storage room, a drying room can be made (many housewives dream of this). And this is where the fun begins. As you understand, the basis of the house is the foundation and waterproofing the foundation is simply necessary.
And in order for the basement to be cozy, comfortable and have an optimal microclimate, you should waterproof the foundation yourself. And this applies not only to houses with a zero base, but also to buildings erected on pile and strip foundations.
The service life of the entire housing depends on proper waterproofing of the base. In this article we will talk to you about how to properly waterproof a foundation.
The impact of moisture on the foundation
Many may say that this is all nonsense, because concrete only gains strength and becomes stronger from water. And it can gain and maintain this strength for many years. But not everything is so rosy; moisture has a negative impact on the entire foundation.
What effect does water have on the foundation of a house?
Now you understand the effect moisture has on a concrete foundation. It affects the condition of all components and structural elements.
Materials for foundation waterproofing
It should be said right away that there are two ways to protect the foundation from moisture.
The first is the use of waterproofing materials to protect the foundation walls, we will talk about this below.
The second is the use of special grades of concrete (pavement concrete). 
This option is used much less frequently for a number of reasons:
- The cost of concrete increases by 30-50%.
- Not every manufacturer is capable of producing these brands of solutions.
- This type of concrete solution cannot be transported far, as it sets quickly.
Mix vigorously with a wooden stick and our material is ready for use. The disadvantage of using such a material is its service life is about 5 years, after which the bitumen surface will begin to crack.
We clean the surface from dirt and dust and prime it. After drying, apply the composition to the wall using a brush. And we repeat this 2-3 times. The corners should be reinforced with a reinforcing element (fiberglass).
- Sprayed materials. This is “liquid rubber”, it creates a seamless single layer on the surface of the foundation if you use a bitumen-latex emulsion and a special spray device.
If you plan to apply the material manually, then elastomix and elastopaz are used for this - these are one-component “liquid rubber” compositions. Approximate consumption per 1 sq. m. – 350 gr.
Elastopaz is sold in 18 kg buckets, applied in two layers, and dries within 24 hours. After use, leftovers can be stored in a bucket.
Elastomix is sold in 10 kg buckets and includes an adsorbent that acts as an activator. This activator accelerates the hardening process and within two hours the composition will turn into rubber. Apply in one layer, dries in 2 hours. Leftovers cannot be stored. 
The disadvantage of using “liquid rubber” is that the surface treated with this material must be protected from stones and construction debris when backfilling the foundation. To do this, it should be covered with geotextiles or a pressure wall should be erected.
We clean the wall from dust and dirt. We prime the surface. After the primer has dried, apply the composition using a sprayer (preferred) or using a brush and roller.
- Plaster materials. It is applied like ordinary plaster using a spatula and is used to level and seal the seams of a vertical foundation wall. Experts recommend using plaster mesh for greater strength. Moisture resistance can be provided by components (asphalt mastics, polymer concrete or hydraulic concrete) that are part of the mixture.
The advantage of this technology is ease of application, but the disadvantage is its short service life. Typically, plaster is used to level and prepare the surface before applying bitumen or roll waterproofing.
The most famous materials are hydrotex, Penetron and Aquatron-6. For better adhesion, they should be applied to a wet concrete base. Apply in several layers.
This method has become widespread as a repair. That is, when during operation it is necessary to eliminate leaks in the foundation. A very expensive foundation waterproofing technology.
- Roll materials. The most common is paper-based roofing felt. But modern waterproofing in rolls is a modified polymer material applied to a base made of fiberglass, polyester or fiberglass. Modern adhesive waterproofing is more expensive, but is of higher quality and durable. Commonly used modern roll materials include: Rubitex, Gidrostekloizol, Technoelast, TechnoNIKOL and others.
The material can be applied in two ways, gluing and fusing. Various bitumen mastics are used as glue. And the melting of the material occurs due to heating with a burner (gas or gasoline).
It is recommended to apply two layers. The advantages include quality and long service life. The disadvantages are that the process is long and cannot be done without assistants. 
Recently it has appeared on the building materials market. Self-adhesive roll waterproofing material.
We clean the surface from dirt and dust. Apply a layer of bitumen mastic. Here you should not apply it carefully, since the mastic is a binding element when melting the roofing material.
Then the roofing material is heated using a burner and applied to a layer of hot bitumen mastic. The sheets are laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm. If the gluing method is used, the surface should be treated with a primer before applying mastic.
Types of foundation waterproofing
There are only two types: horizontal and vertical waterproofing.
Horizontal waterproofing of the foundation is carried out only during the construction of the building. After construction it is not possible to do it.
It can be used on almost any surface, and most importantly, it does not shrink after application. We clean all the simply obtained grooves from dust and dirt and treat them with a primer.
Prepare the composition according to the instructions. And fill the resulting seams as tightly as possible. As soon as the repair compound has set, it should be moistened generously with water. Then it is treated with a primer.
This repair composition will help restore the protective functions of your foundation, but experts recommend using penetrating compounds in addition.
Conclusion
It should be noted that complete foundation protection is a combination of vertical and horizontal waterproofing of the foundation. And what material to use is your choice, the most important thing is to follow the technology.
And most importantly, no insulation will withstand direct exposure to moisture for long, so roof drains, stormwater systems, formwork, and drainage systems should be provided, both on the ground and underground.
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