Self-leveling floors are becoming increasingly popular. In principle, it’s not surprising, they are easy to install, even with your own hands, they are not capricious. At the same time, they are environmentally friendly, durable and allow you to get excellent results with minimal labor costs. In this article you will find step-by-step installation instructions, as well as a bonus video with the pouring process.
What tools will you need?
Attention! !
Tools:
- humidity measuring device;
- needle roller;
- regular roller;
- mop - squeegee;
- container for mixing the composition;
- wide spatula;
- water container;
- Drill or mixer;
- level.
Consumables:
- leveling composition;
- damper tape;
- deep penetration primer.
What is self-leveling floor
The simplest self-leveling floor is a single-layer one; a primer is applied to the subfloor and then filled with a self-leveling mixture.
The subfloor can be either concrete or wood flooring, and in some cases even old tiles.
All layers of self-leveling floor
If you need a floor with a design, then there will be more layers, and the installation time will be much longer.
In this case, a primer and a self-leveling solution are also applied, on top of which the image goes, and then the finishing layer is poured. By the way, it comes in both glossy and matte.
Step-by-step instructions on how to properly make a self-leveling floor with your own hands
Video
Preparation
You have already seen the list of consumables and tools; if everything is ready and a design has already been thought up, then you can start working.
We begin to prepare the base for 3D floors. If a concrete screed serves as a roughing field, it is necessary to remove all large irregularities, such as concrete sagging. Yes, of course, a self-leveling floor can hide them, but if you do not remove them, the consumption of the mixture will increase, and the layer will also be uneven.
An uneven layer will greatly increase the drying time. Just for fun, take a look and decide if you need it. Sometimes it is much easier, faster and cheaper to prepare the base than to eliminate defects.
In the case of wooden floors, it will be necessary to strengthen or replace boards that have become unusable. The cracks must be sealed; a sealant or special wood putty will do.
If there is a self-leveling floor on top of the tiles, then it is enough to check that there are no loose tiles.
Surface without cracks
The appearance of cracks is affected not only by the strength of the supporting structure; careful priming and the use of a damping layer are important.
Padding
The primer increases adhesion (adhesion) to the surface. Without it, bubbles and peeling may appear, and therefore cracks may develop. Before applying the primer, do not forget to clean the base from dust and dirt, you can even use a vacuum cleaner. It is convenient to apply with a garden sprayer, although a brush and roller will also work. It is better to apply in two layers, especially on highly absorbent materials.
Installation of damper tape
This tape is laid vertically along the entire perimeter of the room. Serves as a deformation layer. Even if there is no heated floor, the self-leveling floor will expand with temperature changes and if it rests directly on the walls, stresses will arise leading to cracks.
Installation of beacons by level
Although the compositions are called self-leveling, in reality, beacons are still needed for control. These will not be the same beacons that are used when pouring concrete screed, in the form of metal profiles. Here we simply screw in the self-tapping screws according to the level, we will carry out the filling until the plane of the self-leveling floor reaches the level of the screw heads. But it is more convenient to use the so-called “spider” beacons, which you can also make yourself.
What composition is better to use
- Ceresit;
- Knauf;
- Prospectors;
- Founds;
- Weber.
There are many other good inexpensive blends, but these are the most popular. We only advise that if you are purchasing, you will decide on one manufacturer. It is not known how well different mixtures will “get along”, because everyone’s additives are different.
Types of self-leveling floors
In addition to choosing the manufacturer, you must also choose the type of mixture; the performance characteristics depend on this.
- Concrete. It is used more often under carpet, parquet or linoleum. The base is cement. plus polymer additives.
- Polyurethane. This flooring is ideal for rooms with heavy loads. Mainly garages, warehouses and other technical equipment. premises. Polyurethane is very wear-resistant.
- Epoxy. It is also very durable, but is used more often in office spaces.
- Plaster. Inexpensive, with quick setting, but is afraid of moisture.
- 3D self-leveling floors. Used as a design element in residential premises.
Preparation of the solution
You need to knead correctly, first fill the container with water, then pour the dry mixture into it. Be sure to follow the proportions indicated on the packaging. Do not turn on the drill at too high a speed, otherwise there will be a lot of air bubbles in the solution.
There is a trick for those who are not sure that they have received the correct consistency. Take a plastic cup and cut off the bottom. Place on a flat surface. After this, pour 100 grams of solution there, and then lift it up. The solution should spread into a spot with a diameter of 20 centimeters.
Pouring self-leveling floor
It is better to fill the floor together, since you have no more than 40 minutes for the entire process, after which the solution will begin to dry. So, one person kneads, and the second pours it onto the floor and distributes the mixture evenly using a wide spatula.
Fill to the required level, you can remove the beacons. And then go over it with a needle roller to remove air bubbles from the self-leveling floor.
Expansion joints.
For a home, this is usually not relevant, more for some large areas. For example, a floor in a large warehouse or shopping center, if the area is divided by expansion joints into separate concrete slabs, then in a self-leveling floor they will also need to be made.
Stages of pouring a 3D self-leveling floor
After the base self-leveling layer has dried, you can begin to prepare the design. The design is usually printed on banner fabric or applied to it using an airbrush. Self-adhesive vinyl film is also used for these purposes.
1. Pour the finishing layer over the base layer to get a perfectly flat plane. We wait a day in the case of “self-adhesive”.
2. Glue the design. If you have vinyl film as your design, it is glued to the dry surface of the finishing layer. And if it is banner fabric, then it must be glued to a non-dried finishing layer.
3. Apply another finishing transparent layer to the design element. Wait for it to dry and cover it, preferably with foil, to protect it from UV rays.
4. Cover the floor with protective varnish.
Self-leveling floors are seamless flooring on a mineral or polymer basis. The characteristics of such coatings are determined by the component composition of the mixtures and the technology of their application.
Basic self-leveling mixtures are used to level bases with differences of up to 8 cm. The middle layer, leveling a concrete or cement-sand base, is up to 3 cm thick, and the finishing layer, the most durable, up to 1 cm thick, finally levels the floor surface (see: in particular home).
What are they?
There are two groups of self-leveling floor mixtures.
Mineral self-leveling floors
Coatings based on cement or gypsum with mineral modifiers and fillers. By varying the ratio of components, you can change the spreadability and hardening time. The purpose of the mixture depends on the fraction and type of fillers: coarse-grained fractions are used for leveling layers (starting floor), fine-grained fractions are used for a thin finishing coating under linoleum, cork, and carpet materials.
The basis of the mixture is Portland cement (gypsum) and fractionated quartz sand. The dry mixture is packaged at the factory and diluted with water before starting work. The main advantage of mineral floors is high technology, they are used in various industries. In housing construction, they are used as leveling mixtures for bases under tiles, linoleum, rolled carpets, parquet, etc.
Polymer liquid floors
Such coatings have a synthetic polymer base. See the most common ones below.
Methyl methacrylate
Their surface can be smooth or rough (anti-slip), the colors are varied, and they have excellent decorative qualities.
Performance properties vary depending on the use of various additives: if necessary, hardness, ductility, temperature stability, etc. can be adjusted.
They are resistant to ultraviolet radiation and can be used at different temperatures.
The disadvantages include need for ventilation when pouring due to strong odor. Polymerization and development of operational strength in just a few hours can also be considered as a disadvantage: pouring such coatings requires highly qualified specialists, whose work is not cheap.
They are used at industrial facilities in various industries: pharmaceuticals, electronics, aircraft manufacturing, trade, etc.
Suitable for use indoors and outdoors. They are more expensive than polyurethane and epoxy coatings.
Epoxy
The working mixture of epoxy floors includes two components: base of the required color and hardener. Floors are applied to a previously prepared base. Layer thickness - from 1.5 mm to 5 mm. In residential areas, transparent epoxy floors are installed using photos, 3D compositions or lighting.
Such coatings look interesting; designers love to use them. Quartz-filled epoxy coatings for industrial premises have increased mechanical strength and a non-slip surface.
Disadvantages: low elasticity, insufficient stability against impacts and a moving base.
Epoxy floors can be installed on any substrate and are hard and seamless. The floors are resistant to acids, alkalis, petroleum products, etc. They are used in chemical and pharmaceutical production, in the food industry, in laboratories, car service centers, etc. Convenient and easy to maintain in residential areas.
Cement-acrylic
A combination of cement, polyacrylate copolymer and aggregate. Developed specifically for food industry enterprises with high mechanical loads, large volumes of liquids, treatment with chemicals, steam, disinfection, etc.
The coatings are highly durable - they do not collapse even when cracks appear. Matte surface, anti-slip effect, long service life, chemical resistance, the ability to install on a substrate with unevenness and defects, use indoors and outdoors are the main advantages of cement-acrylic-based floors.
The disadvantages include the complexity of the device.
Polyurethane
Polyurethane is wear-resistant, strong and durable. It is lightweight, holds water well, and is shock and abrasion resistant.
The disadvantages include the need for careful preparation and minimal humidity, as well as increased consumption of materials.
Polyurethane self-leveling floors are often used in individual housing construction, as well as in production, warehouse and other premises.
3D floors
This is the most modern method, which is widely used in different countries. The method consists of using a special material with a pattern and a transparent self-leveling coating. Such coatings are exclusive.
What does self-leveling floor consist of?
The type of self-leveling floor is determined by the type of binder component. The composition of any self-leveling floor includes:
- Mineral and polymer binders
The bases depend on the type of floor and its purpose; it can be cement, gypsum, methyl methacrylic, epoxy, polyurethane resins, etc.
- Fillers
Fillers are needed to give self-leveling floors mechanical strength, hardness, and wear resistance. Fractional quartz sand, crushed stone, and various polymers can be used as fillers. In base leveling mixtures the particle size is up to 1.2 mm, in finishing coatings - up to 0.5 mm.
- Special Additives
They are used to impart various properties to the mixture (hardening accelerators and retarders, to increase frost resistance, strength, ductility, etc.).
- Dyes (colors)
Organic and inorganic dyes are used to give the self-leveling floor the desired color.
What do you need for work?
To carry out work on installing self-leveling floors, you need personal protective equipment and special working tools. To work safely you will need:
- respirator;
- latex gloves;
- shoes with hard soles.
Required working tools:
- Roller aeration needle to remove air bubbles in the spilled mixture.
- Electric drill at low speed with a mixer to prepare the working mixture.
- Paintshoes– sandals with metal spikes, in which you can walk on a flooded floor. Allows you to perfectly level the spilled mixture in different places.
- Synthetic rollers for priming the base surface.
- Raklya for applying epoxy composition.
- Spatulas for leveling the mixture in corners, near walls and other hard-to-reach places.
- Vacuum cleaner for cleaning the surface.
Self-leveling floor calculator
Companies that sell self-leveling floors usually offer a convenient material calculation form on their websites. Using a self-leveling floor calculator, you can quickly determine how many bags of dry mix you will need to level the base. Consumption per 1 sq. meter is calculated for all types of flooring available for sale.
To calculate the material, you need to fill out the proposed calculator form. It indicates the type of self-leveling floor, the minimum and maximum thickness of the layer, the dimensions of the room, and the density of the mixture, which can be specified on the packaging. After a few seconds, the calculator will display the required amount of material and its cost.
How to pour it with your own hands?
The flooring technology includes several stages that must be strictly followed.
Selection of self-leveling composition
Before pouring the self-leveling coating, the base should be prepared with a special repair compound.
For concrete bases there are two types of mixtures - cement and gypsum. The former are more expensive, but they are universal and are used everywhere, the latter - only in dry conditions.
A leveling layer thickness of 2–50 mm for cement mixtures allows reducing pouring time. Gypsum compositions make it possible to install self-leveling floors with a thickness of 2–100 mm, while their setting time is much longer.
In residential premises there are two options for choosing a mixture: use a cement composition everywhere or, dividing the premises into “dry” and “wet”, use different types of mixtures. For wooden bases, there are special compositions for self-leveling floors.
How to prepare the base?
A very important stage on which the quality of work as a whole depends. The nature of the preparatory work depends on the base material:
- Wooden base
The surface must be clean and dry. Remove dirt, oil stains, grease. Sand the clean surface to make it rough. There is no need to prime the wooden surface.
- Concrete or mortar screed
The top layer of old concrete should be removed, the surface should be cleaned, potholes, cracks should be filled, oil stains should be removed, etc. Before applying primer, remove dust with a vacuum cleaner.
Applying primer
Primer of concrete and mortar is required, because... the absorbency of these materials is high. The primer is absorbed into the base, increases its adhesive ability.
Preparing the mixture
The container should be large enough to knead a whole bag of mixture. Cooking sequence:
- pour the required amount of water at room temperature into the container according to the instructions;
- pour out the entire contents of the bag and mix thoroughly for at least 3 minutes with a mixer (low-speed drill);
- Let the homogeneous mixture sit for 2 minutes and stir again - the mixture is ready.
Fill
The floor should be poured immediately after preparing the mixture. The solution at room temperature should be used within half an hour.
Filling can be done at a temperature not lower than 10 degrees. Sequence of work:
- Pour the mixture from the container in several places and spread evenly with a spatula.
- Spread the remaining mixture into the unfilled joints.
- Pass over the surface with a needle roller to remove air.
- The self-leveling layer can be coated with a finishing layer only after 12 hours. You can walk on the self-leveling layer after 5-6 hours.
How to cut the seams of a self-leveling floor?
To prevent linear deformations of the floor, it is necessary to cut expansion joints in the surface, repeating the joints in the concrete base.
To do this, a recess is made in the set coating to a third of the thickness of the polymer layer. It needs to be filled with caulk and sealed with joint compound or caulking cord.
Coating care
Self-leveling floors do not require special care - regular wet or dry cleaning is sufficient. It is better to finish wet cleaning by wiping the floors with a dry cloth. For cleaning, you can use washing vacuum cleaners and steam mops. Disinfection of the floor is done according to the instructions.
Traditionally, the floor is leveled with cement-sand screed, but it is difficult to work with, and getting a perfectly flat surface is even more difficult. You can make your work easier by using additives that increase the plasticity of the solution, allowing you to achieve a smooth surface. This technology is called liquid, poured or self-leveling floors, since the solution is truly liquid and is precisely poured. You can select additives yourself, but it is time-consuming and difficult. After all, not only fluidity is important, but also the ability to level, hardening speed and other characteristics. Therefore, a more common method is to use ready-made mixtures, which are selected according to characteristics for specific tasks. With such mixtures you can make a self-leveling floor with your own hands. Not to say that it’s easy to achieve an excellent result when making it yourself, but it is possible.
One of the varieties of poured floors is polymer, and they can be plain, or they can contain an image. These are so-called 3D floors. They are all applied using the same technology, with their own characteristics. One caveat - polymer floors (and three dee) require an ideal base. It can be done on a concrete slab using pouring technology. Therefore, it is imperative to study it.
Technology and sequence of actions
If you start looking for what mixture to buy to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, you will get confused: there are different compositions with different characteristics. All of them are used in this technology, but for different needs and situations. There are two large groups:
Not so much? But that's not all. In each of these groups there are quick-hardening compositions. On the one hand, this is good: repairs will take less time. On the other hand, if you lack experience (and where can you get it if you are making a poured floor with your own hands for the first time), the speed of hardening can result in the fact that while you stir all the lumps when the composition is congested, it will begin to set and there is no time to level it. There have been cases. For example, we were planning to fill a room of 16 square meters, and mixed two bags of a quick-hardening composition in a large tub. The time from getting into the water to setting is 25 minutes. All lumps were stirred for 15 minutes. The solution was poured onto the floor, but it hardly flowed anymore. We tried to level it, but it almost didn’t work. Then they quickly loaded everything into bags and took it to the trash heap. The conclusion is simple: to avoid such a situation, do not take quick-hardening compounds for your first experiment.
One more nuance. The compositions must be selected in accordance with the operating conditions: for interior or exterior work, if the room is periodically left without heating, frost resistance is needed. There are also special compositions for laying heated floors - the list of characteristics should include a note about compatibility with heating.
Now about what self-leveling floors are made of. The composition may be based on cement or gypsum; in rare cases, both components are used, but there are special additives that neutralize the discrepancy (Starateli brand). When purchasing leveling agents and finishing compounds from different companies, pay attention to what they are based on. The fact is that gypsum and cement conflict with each other. They cannot be stacked one on top of the other. If the leveling agent is cement-based, then the finishing composition should also be made of cement. The same rule applies to plaster.
What you need to know
So, the main points and features of the self-leveling floor technology:
If the floor is leveled for laying tiles, laying a leveler is often sufficient. Small differences of up to 4-5 mm are leveled with a layer of tile adhesive. In general, look at the price: what will work out cheaper: pour a layer of liquid flooring or increase the consumption of tile adhesive. Both options are equivalent in terms of performance, so choose the less expensive one. Under all other coverings - laminate, parquet board, package, linoleum, cork, carpet, etc. — a difference of no more than 2 mm per 1 meter is required. If there is no such result after the leveler, you will have to fill in another finishing layer.
What do you need
In addition to bags of mixture, you will need some tools and equipment:
Work procedure: making a self-leveling floor with your own hands
The first stage is preparing the base. Everything that can be torn off, beaten off, cleaned off is removed. The cracks are widened, if they are too large, they are sealed with tile adhesive or a dry mixture for filling the floor, diluted with PVA glue. Small ones - up to 3 mm deep - are left without sealing, just cleaned well. Having finished cleaning, they clean everything well and collect dust with a vacuum cleaner.
The second stage is primer. It is better to take a primer from the same company as the liquid floor - a guarantee of compatibility. If you bought another one, check them for compatibility: look in the instructions with what compositions can be used - gypsum or cement based. It is necessary to prime thoroughly, completely saturating the entire base. It is faster to work with a roller on a long stick, but you can also use a brush or even a wide spatula. For loose materials, a single primer is not enough, and after the first has dried, a second, and maybe a third, is applied.
General sequence of work when pouring a floor. Using this technology you make self-leveling floors yourself
Stage three - installation of beacons. Lighthouses are displayed in different ways. First way: how to use metal profiles with a regular screed. You can leave them in the floor, or you can take them out after the solution has set (primary hardening) and fill the holes with the same mixture. Second way : with a certain step, screw the screws into the floor, aligning the caps according to the level. This method is acceptable if you level the solution according to the rule. Then, when pouring, focus on the caps. Third way: make “rails” from a thick, quick-setting floor mortar. Basically, for this purpose they use a “U”-shaped profile for drywall, which is lubricated from the inside with grease. It is laid, back up, on level screws. Place the solution inside with a spatula, filling it to the very top. The trick here is to make sure there are no voids left. There is a modification of this method: along the laid screws, lay a roller of mortar into which to press the lubricated profile. The squeezed out and excess solution is collected; if it does not have time to set, you can try to use it again. Method four: use a laser plane builder.
Stage four - filling. You will have to work quickly: after 40 minutes, most compounds lose their elasticity. Therefore, it is more convenient to work with at least one assistant and two containers for filling. It is better to first measure out the required amount of water (pour into some containers, the number of which is equal to the number of batches), open the bags with the mixture, and arrange everything in rows. Install a threshold near the door so that the liquid floor does not spill out and you can make it even.
One person mixes the composition - pours in water, pours out the composition and stirs it with an electric drill and stirrer, the second person pours it and levels it out. The one who levels must put a special sole on thin metal rods on the shoes. If you don’t want to buy it, you can make it yourself (example in the photo).
Pour the composition onto the floor in a “snake” pattern. Although it spreads, it doesn’t spread so well that you don’t need to do anything at all. You will have to level, especially if you are laying the starting, coarse leveler in a decent layer. Depending on the chosen method of installing the beacons, you “drive” the solution either with a long mounting rail - as a rule, or with a wide spatula with teeth (if you use a plane builder, it is more convenient for them to work). To avoid crawling with it on your lap, it can be attached to a long handle. Some people prefer to disperse the solution with a toothed roller. With a sufficient layer thickness (from 5 mm) it does a good job; for thinner ones you need either a spatula or a rule. You have to work quickly - you need to fill the entire room before final hardening, and the next portion of the solution is being prepared.
As soon as the next portion of the solution is ready, it is poured out, continuing to level the new area, mixing the two zones at the edges. This way the entire surface is filled.
Stage five - waiting and checking the result. After pouring, close the doors - so that there are no drafts - and wait the required time. It's very different. Mixtures with cement take longer to set, with plaster - faster, but usually you can walk on the surface after 12-24 hours.
When the specified period has passed, take the two-meter rule and check the result. When using a coarse leveler, the difference can be 2-5 mm, or it can be measured in centimeters. Very much depends on skill. If this is the first time you have made a self-leveling floor yourself, and the differences were less than 10 mm, we can congratulate you on your success. This is a good result, and the existing unevenness will be smoothed out by the finishing leveler. It has a finer grain and is better distributed.
If you want a good result, find a good self-leveling mixture. Of course, it will need to be distributed over the surface, but it will level itself. The only disadvantage of this type of composition is their price. In general, it has been noted that the less experience, the more expensive the composition should be used to guarantee a smooth floor.
All the nuances and features of the construction of poured floors are well described in the video. There is also a demonstration of how to level the mixture and several brands that are recommended to be used.
Manufacturers of compositions for self-leveling floors
There are many companies on the market, both foreign and domestic. Some compositions are praised by everyone, while others have conflicting reviews. Here you need to understand that those who often deal with this work can, using a composition that is not very good in terms of characteristics, get an excellent result. It’s more difficult for beginners: they don’t know how it should be, so they can’t correct it in time if something goes wrong. Therefore, it is unlikely that you will be able to save money: in order to get a good result, you will have to buy a composition for self-leveling floors with very good characteristics and reviews. And these are expensive brands.
Here is a list of manufacturers and compositions, with a brief description:
- Bolars is inexpensive, but difficult to work with.
- ‘Prospectors – reviews vary.
- Pyramid - little experience.
- CERESIT CN78 - easy to work with, the surface is smooth, but expensive.
- IVSIL TIE-ROD-II is a self-leveling mixture based on gypsum; other compositions level a little worse.
- BROZEX NP-42 - the result is not bad, spreading is normal.
- Horizon Universal - difficult to work with.
- Vetonit Vaateri Plus is a self-leveling agent with good characteristics, it is easy to work, the surface is smooth, and it is expensive.
- Forbo 976 is a self-leveling mixture with good performance.
- Foundation T-45 - spreads and levels well, but is not suitable for thick layers (more than 10 mm).
- Plitonit (PLITONIT) - a composition for a thin layer has very good reviews.
- Kreps-RV and SL - according to reviews - normal characteristics at an affordable price.
These are, naturally, not all manufacturers, but those with which you can make a floor, and do not suffer (according to reviews of those who worked with them) ...
Polymer and 3D self-leveling floors
The technology for installing polymer floors is similar to installing self-leveling ones. There is also a liquid, relatively fluid composition that needs to be distributed over the surface. The difference is in materials. These are mainly polymers. They differ according to the type of binder component:
- polyurethane;
- epoxy;
- methyl methacrylate.
In terms of coating thickness, they can be very thin - this is dust removal coating and painting, or they can have a thickness of 1.5-4.5 mm, sometimes more. The compositions are mainly two-component - before application they are mixed in strictly measured proportions. Then, like self-leveling floors based on cement or gypsum, they are poured onto a flat primed surface (their own primer) and leveled.
Polymer floors can have a glossy or matte surface, or they can have a rough surface. In apartments and private houses (for bathrooms, kitchens, corridors) they mainly use a gloss or matte surface, in swimming pools or on open terraces - a rough surface, so that it is non-slip even when wet.
Volumetric floors with a pattern, which are also called 3D (three de) floors, are a special case of a polymer floor. The design is applied to a banner or special fabric. The main thing is careful elaboration of the design and high quality of printing. This pattern is glued onto the prepared base, then a layer of transparent polymer is poured on top. After drying, another layer of abrasion-resistant varnish is applied. The result is those beautiful pictures on the floor that many people like so much.
The basis for the quality of a 3D floor is an ideal base and high-quality pattern
Self-leveling floor technology with a pattern
Step by step it looks like this:
The entire technology for installing a 3D floor is demonstrated in a video clip. After viewing, all ambiguities should disappear completely.
Those who want to make a volumetric self-leveling floor with their own hands (with a 3D effect) often have questions about where to buy materials. if we are talking about photo printing, then in an advertising agency engaged in banner advertising or in a printing house that has equipment for large-format printing on fabric.
If we are talking about polymer compounds, then the number of manufacturing companies is in the dozens. There are both domestic and imported. They, as a rule, produce the entire line - from primers to coatings with different characteristics. There are a lot of possibilities for tinting. Choose any from the catalog. This is if you plan to fill a plain floor. If you decide to make a floor with a pattern, in addition to the primer you will need one composition for the base (to match the background of the photo), as well as a transparent one. They can also sell all sorts of “chips” to create a shimmering, for example, floor, etc.
As mentioned, there are many manufacturers. Here are some, with a description of the materials they produce (which they sell):
- TeoKhim enterprise produces polymer floors under the Elakor brand (all three types of polymers)
- Etal and Etal UV - epoxides
- Remmers Epoxy (epoxies), Remmers PUR Aqua (polyurethane)
- Self-leveling polyurethane coating KT floor Enamel PU 01 - one-component (toxic, use a respirator)
- Polyepoflex - epoxy self-leveling floors
- Ultraflor - polyurethanes
- Poly-Flor - all three polymers (epoxy, polyurethane, methyl methacrylate)
- Epolast - two-component epoxy compounds
- Sikafloor-2530W - epoxy self-leveling floor
Actually, this is all technology. You see that it is not easy to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, but it is possible. The main task is to qualitatively prepare the bases, as well as to meet the specified time before the compositions harden.
Another video on how to make plain polymer floors.
The technology of pouring self-leveling floors compares favorably with concreting screeds in its high productivity and low labor intensity. There is no need to set beacons and level the mixture; it is enough to distribute it evenly in separate areas of the room. In a single horizontal level, the self-leveling compounds will spread on their own; the master will only have to expel the air bubbles with a needle roller.
The industry produces self-leveling mixtures based on organic resins (epoxy, polymer) and mineral binders (gypsum, cement). Polymer self-leveling floors are:
- epoxy-urethane - a rational combination of plasticity and rigidity of the layer;
- methyl methacrylate - an expensive product for outdoor use and unheated rooms;
- epoxy - prohibited in living rooms, they are moisture resistant, but are destroyed by shock and vibration loads;
- polyurethane - vibration- and impact-resistant, very expensive.
Classification of polymer self-leveling floors.
Mineral self-leveling floors are often classified by layer thickness:
- starting – 5 – 10 cm, drying 6 – 12 hours;
- medium thickness – 2 – 5 cm – dry for 3 hours;
- finishing - allow you to bring horizontal surfaces to zero.
Depending on the operating conditions, self-leveling mixtures are recommended for use in the following premises:
- bathrooms - epoxy compounds;
- balconies, external stairs - polymer mixtures;
- living rooms - cement and gypsum levelers or polyurethane floors;
Important! If we talk about polymer self-leveling compositions, it is recommended to use only polyurethane floors in residential premises, because... only they meet all environmental and sanitary standards.
All of these materials fall into the category of self-leveling floors, since they almost do not need to be leveled. However, modifications based on mineral binder have a rough surface, are not strong enough (they emit dust when walked, although there are modifications that have sufficient wear resistance), and the surface does not have the necessary aesthetics of perception. They are used as perfectly smooth, quick-drying screeds for floor coverings, or as a finishing coating for industrial and warehouse premises.
Self-leveling polymer flooring has a self-sufficient design and wear resistance, therefore it is used as an independent finishing coating.
Self-leveling floor manufacturing technology
Unlike screeds, self-leveling mixtures are capricious in terms of the quality of the base; it is forbidden to lay waterproofing and insulation under them (except for starting compounds), since adhesion to the load-bearing surface is sharply reduced. Self-leveling floors are very expensive, they are usually used for a thin layer, and are combined with cement-sand screeds, so it is necessary to choose a rational manufacturing technology.
Pulling the self-leveling floor to zero.
Self-leveling mortars have high linear expansion, therefore they are cut off from the walls by a damping layer, are never rigidly connected to the building envelope and are not reinforced with wire mesh.
Requirements for grounds
The budget for finishing the premises dictates the main condition - efficiency. Self-leveling floors are applied in a thin layer, so it is extremely important to fulfill the following requirements:
Important! The self-leveling floor should be distributed only onto concrete surfaces that have gained strength and have minimal moisture.
Since mineral mixtures are used for leveling and are not a decorative coating, the requirements for bases are less stringent. For a polymer self-leveling floor, even fine dust, moisture and the master’s luxuriant hair are dangerous. Therefore, professional vacuum cleaners are used, finishers work in disposable suits with elastic bands on the cuffs, hats and respirators.
Damping layer and expansion joints
Unlike a floor on the ground and a concrete screed, the damper layer on the walls of the room along its perimeter is made exclusively from damper tape. Pieces of extruded polystyrene foam are not suitable for this technology. In addition to vertical load-bearing surfaces, the entire height of the self-leveling floor with a margin of 2 - 3 cm is covered with tape over communications passing through the floor/ceiling (hot water/hot water risers, heating, sewerage).
Damper tape sticker.
The horizontal level is marked using the tape, taking into account the highest point inside the room and the general level of all rooms of the apartment.
In large premises (utility unit, garage, terrace, studio room), individual areas larger than 50 m2 are separated by a special profile (corner) to create expansion joints. In small rooms, the expansion joint runs along the bottom of the doorways and is decorated with threshold strips during finishing.
Economical screed schemes
The main secrets of choosing economical self-leveling floor manufacturing schemes are:
For small differences in height, the required amount of self-leveling floor is used without a concrete screed.
Mixing the solution
Since pouring in one step is preferable, and the lifespan of the solution is not too long, the technology for mixing self-leveling floors has the following nuances:
Advice! If the ratios of components are indicated incorrectly by the manufacturer (range ±1 liter per bag of product), it is recommended to measure the spreadability yourself to select the optimal amount of liquid.
To check spreadability, the following technique is used:
- a ring is cut out of a 5 liter plastic bottle;
- installed on a smooth, slippery surface (tile, glass);
- is filled completely with the solution and carefully removed through the top.
The ideal spreading option is that the solution spreads after removing the ring to a diameter three times the size of the bottle (60 cm spot for a 20 cm cylinder).
The finished solution is applied to individual areas of the base, taking into account the spreadability of 1/3 and the thickness of the layer along the horizontal marks on the damper tape. If necessary, redistribution of the mixture is done with a spatula/trowel 20–30 cm from the dumped pile of mortar.
Laying begins from the corner farthest from the entrance opening of the room, the master moves inside the room on special paint shoes, periodically expels air from the solution with a needle roller.
Excess damping material in height is removed with a utility knife after the mixture has hardened. Walking is possible after 3 – 12 hours depending on the composition; full strength gains take longer.
If the self-leveling floor is intended as a finishing layer, additional sanding and varnishing may be required. Finishing coatings are installed on the starting self-leveling floors, not reaching the walls around the perimeter of the room. The remaining gap is decorated with platbands, which are fixed to the walls, and not to the screed.
Thus, the method of pouring a self-leveling floor is much simpler and more economical. Than traditional cement-sand screed. The technology is available to a home craftsman with minimal finishing skills and a small arsenal of tools.
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Every person who wants to make a self-leveling floor with their own hands has probably asked the question: “How to fill the floors yourself?” After all, this type of flooring is quite popular today, but an ordinary person hardly knows how to properly fill a floor.
Now there are a large number of varieties of poured flooring, both ordinary and decorative. And this type of coating looks stylish in any residential interior, since it contains various additives from bright fragments, which adds more aesthetics and popularity to it. Acts as a decorative element quartz sand, with the help of which all kinds of patterns are created. They can be glossy, matte, smooth or rough. In addition, you can create a self-leveling floor with a specific pattern, which with its style and beauty will help create a unique atmosphere in the room. But how to fill such floors yourself?
Let's talk about how to fill a floor efficiently, while saving money, and consider the technology for creating such floors, paying attention to the main stages of the work, as well as the tools and materials needed for work.
Previously, poured flooring was used in industrial buildings or industrial premises. But now the technology of poured flooring has undergone some changes, and now such a floor can be used in residential premises. The design of poured floors depends on the purpose of the building and the planned loads on it. The process of making this floor has several stages. Let's look at each one.
Let's prepare the base of the floor
Before you start pouring the floor, you need to prepare the base. Very often, each type of base has its own preparation methods, so we will consider each of them separately.
Concrete base
Self-leveling floors in a residential area with a concrete base require high-quality preparation, which consists of several steps: 
- remove the old flooring, and also dismantle the baseboards and doors. If there is a varnish coating, glue or mastic, they must also be removed;
- treat existing cracks using a triangular scraper;
- clean the floor from dust, dirt and debris;
- use a level to check whether additional leveling of the floors is required;
- Mark on the walls the level to which the floors need to be filled. If there is plaster on the walls, remove it with a margin of 25-30 mm above the mark;
- Clean the base again to remove any dirt that has appeared;
- check the moisture level of the concrete - it should be up to 4%. If the result exceeds the desired value, then you will need to additionally dry the concrete base;
- degrease the surface, cover all cracks and chips and again make sure that the base is horizontal, since the floors must be smooth and dry.
Remember! When cleaning the concrete base, use only a wire brush - it will help to effectively prepare the base.
Wooden base
It is quite possible to make poured floors with an image on a wooden base, but the process requires preparation and repair of the base:
- Work begins with the dismantling of doors and baseboards. As well as removing the old coating;
- open the cracks and clean the surface with sandpaper of various grain sizes;
- remove any existing dirt with an industrial vacuum cleaner;
/li> - When the floor is completely dry, measure the humidity level - it should be up to 10%. If the level exceeds the indicator, then carry out additional drying;
- degrease the surface and seal all cracks and chips using glue-based wood putty.
Floor pouring technology
First you need to prepare a mixture for pouring floors - this is a fairly easy process that can be done at home. Material needed here: a dry polymer-based mixture to which water is added and mixed.
Know! To ensure a high-quality polymer floor, the dry mixture is poured into water, but not vice versa.
Before pouring the floor, perform a flow test. Note that the resulting mass should be rare and flow well over the surface. But don't overdo it with water, otherwise the floors won't harden.
Each person who has some construction skills will be able to independently perform a poured floor, and the instructions provide for some stages of the technology:
To prevent dust from entering and uneven hardening of the surface, cover the floors with foil or a special film.
Modern poured floors can be decorated with thin pieces of polymer. These decorative elements are applied immediately after the floor is poured so that the mixture does not have time to harden.
The entire prepared mixture should be used very quickly (within an hour). Remember that the break between the first and second portions of the solution should be no more than 10 minutes, otherwise the solution will lose its fluid properties or even harden.
Read about why and what to look for when buying flooring.
Watch the video on where to start renovating the kitchen - features of a number of works that require special attention.
The procedure for insulating the floor of the first floor with penoplex is described at:
The price of a poured transparent floor is on average 395 rubles. for 15 kg. Decorative costs less - about 245-255 rubles.
When planning to make poured floors with your own hands, watch the video instructions to understand how and in what sequence to proceed:
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