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Good day everyone!

Not long ago I admired jewelry made from polymer clay using natural stones. I walked around them, admired them and thought how beautiful it was and how I could make something like this myself.
Actually, I didn’t have any stones on hand, but only stone chips. And this is what happened when I put it all together:

Actually, I used coral and amethyst chips. As of today, I have only made two pendants and 2 pairs of earrings, but this is not the limit, because... There are several more options in the sketches waiting to be implemented.

These earrings are unusual. With texture and toning. Their main advantage is natural stones) And since “winter is coming” (c), then the name of the earrings is appropriate) Well, I love the seasons (yes, yes. crimson autumn, purple summer...)

So, the first pair of earrings: “Coral Winter”
Stud earrings made of polymer clay. Light, because the base of the earring is hollow. Diameter: 2.5 cm. Tinted with white acrylic (not ivory, as I like), with Czech glass droplets in the center - very bright!
Well, all this splendor is complemented by a coral pendant.

Second pair of earrings: "Amethyst winter"
Stud earrings made of polymer clay. There are acrylic half-beads on the bottom - very delicate!
Complete with an amethyst pendant.

The pendants (as well as the base of the earrings) are also hollow. Decorated using mosaic technique and tinted with acrylic paints.

Since making decorations by hand has become firmly established in modern fashion, many techniques have emerged for working with various materials. Handicraft masters are developing and improving different ways of producing jewelry from all available raw materials.

Among the various materials for creativity, it stands out. Elastic and pliable in work, it is used for sculpting elements of costume jewelry, interior decorations, making toys and dolls. Various master classes and video lessons tell and show how to make incredible jewelry yourself using unusual plasticine and available tools.

There are many types of this material, allowing you to create both decorative details and fragments or entire decorations that can hardly be distinguished from real ones. For example, plastic does an excellent job of imitating natural stone. Thanks to its versatility, it makes it possible to make almost any stone, so much so that you can easily confuse it with a natural one. Radiant agate, cool lapis lazuli, milky opal, fiery ruby, shimmering emerald, purple amethyst and many other gems will end up in your jewelry box once you master the technique of making them.

Delicate opal for beads

We will use:

• translucent or transparent polymer clay - regular and bleached;
• pieces of colored plastic;
• glitter flakes;
• perlex metallic;
• small glitters of different shades;

Today I want to tell you how to make beads from polymer clay simulating natural pebbles using the example of making a bracelet. Naturally, you can use these beads to make necklaces, necklaces, earrings and anything else you want! They look so natural and natural! But this is just clay and, unlike stone, it is light and so pleasant to the body!

Tools and materials Time: 1 hour Difficulty: 7/10

• polymer clay in black, gray, brown, orange, yellow, white, blue and dark blue;
• spices: nutmeg, black pepper, cinnamon, salt;
• sand;
• jewelry pins;
• padlock;
• connecting rings;
• rolling pin;
• toothpicks;
• matte varnish for plastic;
• cutting blade.

Pamper yourself or gift your loved ones for the upcoming holidays with a charming handmade bracelet made from polymer clay pebble stone beads! Believe me, they will appreciate such a gift!

Materials:

You will be surprised, but these beads are very easy to make! Even a beginner who has only recently decided to learn the art of working with plastic can cope with this task in one hour with the help of a few simple ingredients!

Step-by-step master class

Well, let's get down to the difficult but very exciting process, as a result of which you will have an original product.

Step 1: Create a Yellow Stone

To make a yellow stone, take 1 part black, 3 parts yellow and 6 parts orange clay.

Place the orange plastic in front of you and roll it out into a layer. Place the yellow one on top and roll it over the orange one. Then add the black one on top and roll it all out.

Take the rolled out layers and start twisting them in different directions until the clay takes on the appearance of a pebble stone with thin veins. Roll the lump into an oval ball.

Step 2: Make Gray Stones

Take one part black, two parts white and 4 parts gray plastic.

Place the clay color by color and roll it all out with a rolling pin.

Take the rolled out layers with your fingers and twist them in different directions until you get the desired shade.

Step 3: Make Blue Stone

Take one piece of plastic in blue, white and mustard shades.

Attach the layers to each other with diagonal sides and roll everything together into a layer.

Fold the layer into a 3-petal flower. Sprinkle cinnamon on top and roll out again.

Fold the craft in half. Sprinkle some ginger crumbles on top and roll out again.

Roll the layer into a ball, knead it very lightly and form a ball out of it.

Step 4: Make a stripe in the stone

Take the clay with the finished color and roll it into a ball. Cut it into two parts. Insert a thin strip of white plastic into the middle and fold the ball again.

Press the ball on top with a stick.

Step 5: Shape the Beige Stone

Take one part of black and 5 parts of mustard and beige plastic. Roll out the layers with a rolling pin. Using your fingers, roll them in different directions until you get the desired shade.

Roll the mixture into a ball.

Step 6: Add Texture

Roll the finished ball in cinnamon.

After this, roll it a little in nutmeg. Press a few crumbs into the clay.

For other balls, also add texture by rolling them in sand, black pepper, salt, ginger powder, nutmeg or cinnamon. Select spices so that they are in harmony with the color of the clay.

Once the beads are formed, make holes in them using a toothpick.

Step 7: send for firing

Place all the balls on a baking sheet and bake them in the oven for the amount of time indicated on the plastic packaging.

When the beads have cooled, cover them with 1-2 layers of matte varnish.

2

Creating an imitation of the structure of natural stones

I am posting here a very extensive lesson on creating quite believable imitations of natural ornamental stones using polymer clay. It is based on previously read lessons and personal experience, all photographs and comments are original.

So, for starters, it would be a good idea to organize your workplace and gather the necessary materials and tools around you.

1. the actual workplace. It should be a comfortable table or any other stable surface on which you can work without fear that it will not stand under your energetic body movements.
2. glass. Personally, I prefer to work on it. Because it is easy to clean, plastic comes off more readily than from any other material. I warn you right away if you decide to use the so-called as a substrate. modeling board, which is sold in stationery stores, then very soon you will learn the worst words. Because it is easily damaged by a knife, plastic loves it as if it were its own and does not want to part with it. In addition, it gets dirty very quickly and is very difficult to clean.
3. knife. If you have a special knife for plastic surgery, great. In the absence of one, we make do with a replaceable blade from a stationery knife. Be careful. It's VERY spicy.
4. toothpicks. For picking holes and fine manipulations.
5. ceramic bowl. We will need it to work with gold leaf and to mix liquid plastic with fillers (see below). In the future, it is advisable not to use this bowl for preparing and storing food.
6.thin surgical gloves. An indispensable thing when working with white plastic and when rolling beads, so that there are no “fingers” left.

Let's move on to materials that will help us make extraordinary works from ordinary polymer clay.
7. black acrylic paint in a tube. With it we will create wonderful “natural” veins in man-made stone.
8. brushes.
9. sheets of gold leaf.
10. liquid plastic.

11. transparent multi-colored foil for nail art. Ideal for our task.

In addition to all of the above, you will need wet wipes (a lot), because plastic tends to stain your hands, and running every minute to the bath is somewhat lazy. If you have a pasta machine, great. You will use it when you need to mix colors. If not, then we will train our hands.

Let's get started!

First of all, let's try to create a rhodonite stone. First, let's figure out what kind of stone this is.
According to this site, rhodonite is “a rock formed by the association of a group of minerals: quartz, spessartine, bustamite, rhodochrosite and other manganese minerals. Rhodonite crystals are extremely rare, and it usually appears as solid dense or granular aggregates. The color of the mineral is very uneven. Usually in the mass of the stone, unusually beautiful, bright red areas are found next to less bright ones, turning into darker, brown-red tones. The color of rhodonite also depends on the amount of other minerals: the fewer there are, the purer and more beautiful the rhodonite. with inclusions of yellow or brown tones - also called fuolerite.
A characteristic, but not obligatory, feature of rhodonite is black dendrites of manganese oxides. On a pink background, thin, branching black veins form complex, elegant designs and patterns, sometimes forming very beautiful landscapes, which improves the decorative properties of rhodonite."

In order to try to bring this wonderful description to life, we will need the following colors of plastic: pink, lavender, beige + a little chocolate, white translucent. In addition, to each of the listed colors it is necessary to mix a certain amount of white pearlescent.
I can’t give exact proportions, everything is by eye. But the approximate ratio can be seen in the photo.

I came across a rather vigorous pink color, so I had to soften it with beige and Indian red.

The difference in the photo is not very noticeable, but it is there...

We mix in pearlescent plastic so that there are no obvious transitions between the two colors, but we don’t need uniformity at all.

We stretch pink, lilac and beige plastic into sausages, twist them together and again achieve a “marble” effect. I tore off about half of the beige piece and set it aside, because... it seemed like there was too much of it. And at this time the white one lies on the sidelines and waits in the wings...

We crumble our “marble” piece and white one. We try to grind the white one more. If you have an unnecessary fine grater at home, it is better to use it. Mix our planed pieces. By the way, it may well turn out that you don’t need the entire white piece. Again, everything is “by eye”...

It was at this moment that it suddenly seemed to me that my mixture was missing small light brown inclusions. To do this, I took a beige piece that had been set aside and mixed in a small piece of chocolate. And she thinly planed the resulting color onto her white-pink mixture. DO NOT STIR IT anymore.

Squeeze the paint into a bowl and use a thick, soft brush to “blot” the wide black paths. Don’t try to make them perfectly even, let them tear, somewhere there will be a thick layer of paint, somewhere thin...

After that, we run to the bathroom to wash the brush and bowl! :D While they are washed, the paint dries. You must have time to return to the moment when it has set, but has not yet had time to completely dry (this is important). For us, the main thing in this aging is that the excess moisture evaporates, because... then, during baking, it could tear the product or, at best, leave unsightly swellings.
As soon as the paint has set, carefully, prying it from the edges with a blade, we first fold the scattered pieces into a sausage (the axis is parallel to the drawn stripes), and then, carefully squeezing it, we form a rectangular bar.

Place the resulting block aside. It will lie down, rest, dry out some more, and only after that can it be cut.

In the meantime, we'll move on to another stone. This will be lapis lazuli.
You can read about the stone itself.

The original master class from Desiree can be viewed

We will need plastic in the following colors: ultramarine, dark blue (ultramarine+black), blue, sea wave (blue_green), white+white p/p+white mother-of-pearl. Approximate proportions can be seen in the photo.

Knead all the pieces thoroughly and mix the blue shades until smooth. We treat white as in the case of rhodonite, i.e. the veins should remain.

Chop all the colors with a knife and mix. As you mix, you may find that one color is too dominant and you need to add another. In my case I had to add more ultramarine.

When you are satisfied with the color of the mixture, take out the gold leaf. Now comes the most interesting and fun part. We put on gloves (because gold leaf tends to oxidize from contact with the skin). We take about 2/3 of the sheet and methodically finely tear it. You can put it in a ceramic bowl, or you can directly onto the mixture. Mix again and at the same time chop the mixture until the result satisfies you. You can even arrange a block, make a cut and check the result. If the result does not satisfy you, then chop the block again, add the desired component, mix and assemble the block.

We put the final version of “lapis lazuli” aside for “rhodonite” to rest.

After some time, you can use the resulting sticks like any other sausage. You can cover beads with slices, or lay the slices on a layer of a suitable color, roll them out and cut out pendants and beads for earrings and beads with molds.

For those who have mastered the previous opus, the last part of the “Marlezon ballet”. The most interesting, exotic and, oddly enough, the simplest.

We will make opal. The most beautiful, unique and diverse mineral on the planet. You can read about it here. Natural opal is very expensive, and here polymer clay comes to our rescue again. More precisely, a type of polymer for needlework. This is a gel that, when baked, hardens and acquires a certain amount of transparency.

Our most common product is EBERHARD FABER FIMO® liquid. It is the most transparent of the popular gels after baking, but it has one drawback. It hardens, yes, but it has more of a rubbery consistency. So if you suddenly scratch the resulting product, you won’t be able to sand it. Unless you cover the damaged area with the same gel and bake again. Fimo-gel stands up to this with flying colors.

So we make opal! The master class from Donna Kato, which I focus on, is located

We will need the following materials: Fimo-gel, some unnecessary plastic, white translucent plastic and transparent multi-colored foil for nail art.

Why do we need waste plastic? We will need it in order to set the approximate shape of the future product. Because the gel is quite liquid, it tends to fill all the accessible space and we need to somehow limit this space (of course, if you are going to create “opals” on an industrial scale, then this point can be omitted)
Using the plastic we used, we build a fence on the glass, which we will then put into the oven. The height is approximately 5 millimeters, this is quite enough because there is no point in making a gel layer larger than 4 mm. For example, I gave the fence an oval shape.

We pour the required amount of gel into the already familiar ceramic bowl and add foil there with a generous hand. Stir. You should have a fairly thick mixture. Pieces of foil should not float freely in the gel. Pour the resulting mixture into a plastic mold. And set it to bake. It is baked like regular plastic at 130 degrees for 30 minutes.

Peel the baked piece from the glass and carefully release it from the mold (until the plastic has cooled, it can be easily cut with a knife). Using a sharp blade or scalpel, carefully adjust the shape of the future “stone”.
We roll out the plastic, lubricate with gel (for better adhesion) that part of the workpiece that was at the top during baking, and press it into the rolled plastic. We cut the layer to the shape of the workpiece. You can wrap the workpiece from the sides with a thin layer of plastic. The main thing is that this side does not rise above the surface of the workpiece.

The last step is to create the convex surface of the cabochon. Squeeze the gel directly from the tube onto our smooth surface. It starts to spread out as expected, you start to panic and then a MIRACLE happens! Having reached the edge of the workpiece, the gel stops and forms a neat roller. After this, you can add a little more foil on top, drowning it in the gel layer with a toothpick, and put our almost finished cabochon in the oven for final baking.

And this is what the beads from all three lessons look like after baking and varnishing. It seems to me that this is a completely worthy replacement for natural stone.

I bow to the patience of those who lived to see these lines. :))) But I hope that my experience will be useful for you.