How to assemble plastic windows. Correct installation of PVC windows with your own hands. Fastening the window block in the opening

Greetings, my hands!

How to install plastic windows yourself— we will try to get an answer to this question in this article.

With the onset of spring, many of us have itchy hands, sweaty feet and a suspicious itch in one place! No, this does not mean that hands are starting to sprout from this place, although it may well be - most likely this is an aggravation of the spring hand-to-hand. So it’s time to break, destroy, repair, build, and of course, get hands-on!

Not long ago I decided to do a budget renovation in my daughter’s room. And since the room is “dead,” I decided to make an opening in the wall and install a plastic window in it.Why metal-plastic? Yes, because thanks to such properties as thermal protection, tightness, easy installation, metal-plastic windows have become a part of our everyday life. The slogan is: set it and forget it! I won’t argue that good old carpentry is much more environmentally friendly - it really is, but that’s not what we’re talking about today!

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW
My handymen, I must warn you that self-installation has one negative nuance - this is that the warranty of the company where you order the product is lost. My advice to you is that you shouldn’t be afraid of this, because you can do it yourself.

Companies selling plastic windows provide installation services and often keep silent about the fact that you can refuse installation. To correctly measure and install a PVC window, you don’t have to be a professional. This work, although painstaking, is not too complicated; special knowledge is not needed here. It is advisable to know how to handle a hammer drill and have straight hands. And in addition to invaluable experience, you will also save a lot of money!

Tool

Necessary tools and materials for work:

Screwdriver
Mount
Building level
Hammer
Hammer
Dowels
Anchor plates

If all of the above is available, then you can proceed :)

Removing an old window or preparing an opening

As I already said, usually in apartments and houses plastic windows are installed instead of old wooden ones. Removing a wooden window is relatively easy. First you need to remove the sashes with glass. To do this, they need to be lifted and removed from their hinges. It is often impossible to lift the frame by hand, so it is better to use a pry bar here, unless of course you are Arnie Schwarzinger!

A window without sashes looks like a wooden frame with a vertical crossbar in the middle. This crossbar should be sawed in half to make removing the frame easier.

Before removing the frame, you need to remove the window sill. In multi-storey buildings, old window sills are usually reinforced concrete. They are not easy to take out. Here you need a sledgehammer, with which you need to break the window sill from the bottom up, and then pull it towards you. If it doesn’t help, then drill a small hole and lay in dynamite. We light the wick, wait for the old window sill to disappear. Guys, if anything, then I was joking :), otherwise you never know?!

When dismantling a window unit, you must first loosen and break out the sawn vertical crossbar. After this, the window frame is removed in parts, starting from the top. When dismantling is completed, you need to clear the window opening of construction debris and insulation. It is also advisable to remove small debris and dust using a brush around the perimeter of the entire window opening.

This is about removing an old window, but I had to make the window opening from scratch. To do this, in the wall into which daylight would soon spill, I had to mark out the future dimensions of the window. Usually first, but for me it’s the other way around - I adjust the opening to the future window :)

Using a hammer drill I hollow out an opening (sorry about the quality)

Then I reinforced the window opening with metal lintels

I plastered all the irregularities and the opening is ready!

Preparing a plastic window for installation

So, here, in fact, is the hero of the occasion.

A window from some Turkish company, purchased in Leroy for 4,500 rubles. Dimensions - 1200 mm by 800 mm.

To facilitate installation, it is necessary to remove the glass unit from the window. Usually, when purchasing new windows, the manufacturer deliberately does not hammer the glazing beads in too tightly so that they can be easily removed, but if you do not see any cracks, then a spatula is in your hands. Be careful not to leave any chips or dents on the window itself. By lightly tapping the glazing beads should come out freely.

Due to the fact that I have a window with only one sash, I decided not to remove the double-glazed window, but simply remove the window sash from the hinge. To do this, I carefully knocked out the rod in the top hinge and simply removed the sash from the bottom hinge.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
Friends, if your window is not very large, then it is better to insert it using anchor plates, so as not to once again violate the integrity of the factory assembly.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

There are two ways to install metal-plastic windows.

Most often, plastic windows are installed on canopies. The second method, called anchor installation, involves removing the double-glazed windows from the window block, and then drilling the plastic block from the inside and securing it to the window opening using anchors. Awnings are much easier to install; in this case, there is no need to disassemble the window.

So, let's look at both methods in more detail.

Installation of windows on anchor plates

So, this is perhaps the most popular installation option.

The canopy is a bar with a locking mechanism and holes. Awnings are mounted directly on the window every 50 cm and with a distance of 20 cm from the edges. They are also called anchor plates.

We place the window in the opening, having previously placed wooden blocks under it, the width of which should be slightly larger than the width of the future metal-plastic window sill. Naturally, we don’t forget about the level.

We wedge the window with wooden “bogs”, and if there are plastic ones, then it’s generally good.

Mark the drilling points for the canopies with a pencil or marker. Then remove the frame and drill holes.

We put the frame back and attach the fasteners.

As you can see, in the absence of anchor plates, I attached ordinary construction hangers. Many will criticize me, but I want to make a reservation right away - I am not a supporter of anchor plates at all, since all sorts of wind loads and the like occur. Therefore, for the correct installation of a plastic window in a brick house, I subsequently reinforced the window with anchors.

We fasten the hangers by pre-drilling holes - a hammer drill will help you.

We foam the window, after wetting the walls for better adhesion of the foam and the wall.

After complete drying, cut off excess foam.

Installation of windows on anchors

This method is considered more primitive than installation on awnings, since there is a high risk of damage to the window.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW
Friends, if you have large windows, then only anchor installation is suitable for you, as it is the most reliable and durable.

So, let's look at all the installation steps step by step:

First, you need to remove the double-glazed windows from the window.

We install the window in the opening, having previously placed bars or special plastic “bobs” under it.
We set the window level - first horizontal, then vertical. This is the most important step in the installation - treat it with the utmost care.
After this, we preliminary mark the future holes for the anchors and use a metal drill to make holes.
Insert anchors and secure the window
After the window is placed on the anchors, it is necessary to assemble the window in the reverse order. First we insert double-glazed windows, then we insert glazing beads - first horizontal, then vertical. To ensure they fit tightly into the grooves, tap them with a rubber mallet.

After the window is assembled, it must be foamed. All further operations on cutting foam and installing window sills are absolutely no different from installing metal-plastic windows on canopies.

Screw on the handle.

A newly installed window should not be used for about a day to prevent distortions.

How to install a plastic window with your own hands - video

That's all guys - I hope I was able to give you the answer to the question - how to properly install plastic windows in the house. All that's left is to install the low tide.

Good luck to everyone and spring hands-on!

Plastic windows quickly and confidently replace their wooden relatives due to their excellent performance qualities. Making a plastic window yourself, and also a high-quality one, is not an easy task, but it is possible. In this article we will tell you how to make a plastic window yourself. Let's take a three-chamber profile as a basis. PVC windows from other types of profiles are made according to the same principle.

Necessary equipment

To make windows you will need:

table saw with variable cutting angle (for cutting profiles);
tsulagi for cutting glazing beads;
a roller table for a saw, if you do not want to take measurements with a tape measure;
grinder or saw designed for cutting reinforcing profiles;
single-head, or even better, double-head welding machine;
manual pneumatic machine - needed for cleaning corners from the outside (“dovetail”);
desktop copy-milling machine;
desktop machine necessary for processing the ends of the impost;
manual pneumatic angle-cleaning machine for processing PVC profiles (“crocodile”);
compressor;
template for drilling holes in the frame for the impost;
two templates for drilling holes for hinges (one for the frame and the other for the sash);
templates for hanging frame and sash fittings;
drills 3 mm, 5 mm, 10 mm;
self-tapping screws: 10 mm (with a drill for reinforcement), 25 mm (for fastening fittings), 40 mm (for fastening hinges under the sash, 70 mm (for screwing the impost to the frame);
chisel.

Stages of work

Profile cutting. For a square or rectangular window, cutting the profile should be done at a saw angle of 90˚. When cutting the profile, add a few millimeters for welding. On the profile, immediately label the horizontal and vertical lines with a marker, so that later you don’t get confused and solder the vertical to the vertical.

Reinforcement. Cut the reinforcement profile (iron) 90 mm smaller than the size of the frame profile - 2 pieces each (2 verticals, 2 horizontals). U-shaped iron is suitable for the frame. Insert the iron into the frame profile, making sure that the iron is strictly in the middle. Screw the iron to the profile from the back of the frame using 10 mm self-tapping screws and a drill. The distance between screws should be ≤ 200 mm.

Drilling external drains to release condensate. The procedure for drilling holes is performed only on the lower horizontal of the frame using a copy-milling machine. The recommended length of drains is 27 mm, and the interval between them is from 550 to 700 mm.

Welding frame corners. Before starting work, carefully study the functions of the welding machine and set the necessary parameters: welding and clamping pressure, welding temperature, welding time and cooling. After this, proceed to welding the frame corners.

Cleaning the frame. Using a manual pneumatic angle-cleaning machine, carefully clean the frame welds on both the front and back sides, setting the desired angle for cleaning. Then use a hand pneumatic sander to sand the outside corners of the frame. And finally, use a chisel to clean the welding seams located in the inner corners of the frame - in the gap under the sealing rubber.

Measure the location of the impost on the frame, then put on the template and drill through the plastic with a 10 mm drill so that the impost connector fits. Pierce the outer wall of the frame and the iron with a 5 mm drill.

Measuring and cutting out the impost. Measure the size of the impost along the frame (between two glazing beads) and add a few millimeters. After sawing the impost to the desired size, process its ends on the machine.

Impost reinforcement. The reinforcement (iron) in the impost is rectangular in shape. The cut-off part of the iron is attached to the bottom wall of the impost using self-tapping screws.

Inserting an impost. Install the impost connectors into the frame holes and secure on both sides with 70 mm self-tapping screws. Next, using a drill with a 5 mm drill bit, remove the walls between the frame and the impost in the pass for the sealing rubber (to roll the rubber in a circle). Start and finish rolling the rubber from the top of the frame.

Internal drains in the frame. Using a 5 mm drill, make several drains at approximately an angle of 30-35˚ (three holes - one drain). The distance should not exceed 50 mm -70 mm between internal and external drains.

Measuring and filing the sash. The calculation of the sash dimensions depends on the sash opening in the frame. Take a measurement from one glazing bead to another and add 15 mm - 20 mm (taking into account the soldering of 6 mm). File the sash profile.

Sash reinforcement. It is done in the same way as on the frame profile, but from the inside of the sash profile. It is unacceptable to screw a self-tapping screw into the middle of the sash profile.

Drains in the sash. Performed as in a frame using a drill with a 5 mm drill bit.

Holes for handle. Drill a 10 mm drill, exactly in the middle of the profile stick.

Welding and cleaning the sash. Do the same as on the frame, only completely clean the outer corners with a dovetail.

Rolling up the sealing rubber. Hang fittings on both sides of the sash and on the frame. Drill holes on the frame for the top and bottom hinges, and then drill holes on the sash for the bottom hinge. Secure the sash to the frame and close. Next, install the double-glazed windows and secure with glazing beads. The window is ready!

If you are planning to replace or install new windows, you will need to learn the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands or by hiring a third-party company. It takes approximately 4 hours to dismantle and install the structure if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will take no more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows yourself requires some construction skills.

Window system components

Before you begin installation, you need to understand the nuances and details. First, you should find out all the names of parts and materials. The main load-bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from a plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. In plastic systems, this insert is made of plastic; in metal-plastic systems, metal is used.

The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the plant are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. In terms of color, white windows are most often found, but other colors can be used: wood, brown. Products made from colored profiles will be more expensive than white ones.

Components of a plastic window

The main element of a window unit is the frame

The design of a plastic window includes the following parts:

frame – the main structural part;
if you have a large window, most often it is divided by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
the part that is motionless is called blind, and the part that opens is called the sash;
double-glazed windows can have different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
In order for the glass to hold securely, they are pressed with a bead, which is a thin plastic strip. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
Ventilated holes for drainage are made on the inside of the frame, which are covered with caps. Moisture formed when the temperature changes outside and inside the room passes through them to the outside;
another part of the structure is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Is it possible to install the window yourself?

There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know during installation? To perform these works, you do not need special professional tools and equipment, or vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:

dismantling the old window unit;
installation of a new window.

Removing an old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, then the first stage will take about an hour and a half. Installing windows yourself will take less than three hours. It must be said that if you nevertheless decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should require certain guarantees from them.

If you installed the tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase structures directly from a manufacturer who has been working on the market for a long time and has good reviews from customers. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in winter, you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that also carries out installation work, the customer has a warranty on the fittings for about 5 years. If you install it yourself, you can get a warranty directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order to install windows in a brick house, cinder block house, gas block house or apartment, you must first order a tilt-and-turn or blind structure from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step-by-step instructions for correct measurements

When you place an order, you will be asked to indicate the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.

Before ordering a window, you must take correct measurements of the structure.

Before you start measuring, do not miss an important point - what type of opening you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, it means there is a quarter-sized opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: you need to measure the narrowest part, you will need to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done as follows: after measuring the width, subtract 3 cm; measuring the height, minus 5 cm. Read a detailed article about.

Before taking measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter

To determine the size of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes slightly beyond the radiator.

In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide what components your design will be made of: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Don’t forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, the width of all openings may be different, but the height should be the same; you must choose the smallest size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor. In apartments, the distance from the floor to the window is approximately 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be anything at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure the length of the part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm on each side. This distance will be required for the installation of the corner profile to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, and a tolerance of 3 cm must be subtracted for the gap.

How to take correct measurements of windows in a country house

To correctly measure the dimensions of a structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that when the structure is dismantled, some of the materials with which the space was filled will also be removed.

Preparing to install a window structure

After you remove the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that may fall off or collapse; if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large depressions, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with primer.

The base will need to be cleaned before installation.

Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare the PVC window, which is to be installed. To do this, you need to remove the window sashes; if it is solid, double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on support blocks and aligned horizontally. After this, using a level, the window is aligned vertically and secured in this position with spacer blocks.

Installation of both fixed windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without expansion of the structure. When using the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.

When installing a window using the unpacking method, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, into which anchors are then driven in.

Places for attaching anchors and support blocks

If the installation is carried out without unpacking the frame, the window is fastened using special ones, which are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be taken into account that under significant wind loads the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount it on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live has a strong wind load or windows will be installed at a height, then you should use the option of unsealing the frame.

Mounting on anchor plates

There are nuances to placing a window in the opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, brick, cinder block, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed 2/3 deep from the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam plastic, then the fastening must be done before the insulating layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, the window is installed in the insulation zone.

It is very important to choose the correct installation depth

The installation sequence must be followed:

Having inserted the frame, level it using support and spacer blocks;
then attached to the wall;
after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms; to do this, open and close the window;
after everything has been checked, the doors must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this purpose they use .

However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with sunlight and the external environment, the material loses its properties and is destroyed. To protect it, you need to create, this can be a special film that needs to be glued to the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.

To ensure proper installation on both windows and windows, follow these simple rules:

we install the ebb from the outside in a special slot in the frame or attach it to it with self-tapping screws;
the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to trim it from the edges so that it fits the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the stand profile;
the level is leveled using special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.

According to the principle described above, windows are installed on a balcony or loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be carried by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.

Mistakes you can make when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:

you cannot install the window with the glazing beads facing outward, as this reduces the structure’s burglary resistance, since the glazing bead can easily be pulled out and the glass unit removed;
you need to be careful about leveling the structures when installing the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
It is imperative to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight to avoid its destruction;
It would be wrong to choose to fix the frame structure only with foam: it is absolutely necessary to attach it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

By following all the installation rules, you can successfully install the window structure yourself, and if you seek the services of professionals, you will be able to monitor their work at any stage.

Until recently, exclusively wooden window frames were used in the glazing of residential buildings and industrial buildings. Today, many consider them relics of the past and are in a hurry to replace them with modern metal-plastic structures. Indeed, in addition to high performance characteristics, they are much cheaper than wooden frames. To install plastic windows with your own hands, you don’t need to have superpowers. Almost any person who can hold a tool in their hands can cope with such a task.

However, do not forget that each job requires certain skills and craftsmanship. Lack of experience in installing windows can lead to a number of troubles. These are systematic breakdowns, loose fit and high throughput of street air into the apartment.

To avoid the above points, in this article we will provide step-by-step instructions that will help you install your windows correctly and efficiently. If you still decide to trust professionals, know that some of them are not really professionals, and for a number of reasons they openly neglect certain stages of proper installation (some save time, others save money). Having an idea of the work being carried out, you can easily exercise independent control over the entire process. And subsequently you will enjoy the high-quality operation of your windows, which will bring joy to all family members.

The main stages of installing new windows:

taking measurements;
dismantling old windows;
preparing openings;
installation of a metal-plastic structure.

Not everyone knows that the manufacturer gives absolutely no guarantee for their services if they install windows on their own. Therefore, if various troubles arise during the installation process, you should not hope for a return or replacement. All metal-plastic structures are manufactured strictly according to pre-agreed dimensions. If you make a mistake, the window may not fit in the opening or may end up being much smaller. And it will only be your fault. The company's employees are solely responsible for the implementation of each stage of product installation.

Also, any inaccuracy made when installing a metal-plastic window will deprive you and your loved ones of all the advantages of a modern design and the expected level of comfort.

Window measurements

When taking the necessary measurements, you need to pay attention to the fact that window openings exist with and without a quarter. Accordingly, their formulas for calculating sizes are different.

For the first case, we must measure the width of the opening between the existing quarters, this is done at the narrowest point. And then add 3-4 cm to the resulting figures - this will be the width of our plastic frame. In addition, it is important to check: the largest distance between the vertical quarters should not exceed the design width of the block.

The height is determined by measuring between the top quarter and bottom surface of the window opening.

If the window opening is without a quarter, the required values can be obtained by subtracting 5 cm from the vertical dimension (to place a window sill) and 3 cm from the horizontal dimension.

When determining the size of the window sill and ebb, it is worth considering the following details:

Often the size of a window sill is chosen based on its functionality. It should cover the heating radiators and house flowers should be placed on it;
The length of the window sill is taken to be 8-10 cm longer than the window opening, its edges should be recessed into the cavity of the slope by approximately 4-5 cm;
The dimensions of the ebb are calculated taking into account the planned insulation. It is recommended to leave it protruding 5-10 cm from the wall.

Features of measuring balcony windows

When calculating the width of balcony windows, the length of the parapet is taken as a basis; the entire structure will rest on it. Also, on both sides it is necessary to subtract 6-7 cm, which will be needed for installing the corner profile; it is used to connect the window blocks of the front and side parts. The distance from the roof to the railing, with the exception of the difference of 2.5-3 cm, which is important to set aside for gaps for fastening, will be the height.

Regarding the side balcony frames, their dimensions are determined in the same way. The only thing is that you need to subtract 6-7 cm from the width to install the corner profile, as well as 2.5-3 cm for the gap from the wall to the window.

Features of window measurements in private houses and old buildings

When taking measurements of windows in private houses and old buildings, it is recommended to first knock off part of the slopes on both sides (in the measurement areas). This is done in order to see what the space occupied by the window opening is like. It very often happens that there are dilapidated cement mortar and various insulation materials that can crumble during the process of dismantling the existing window. The positive point here is that the new plastic structure can be slightly enlarged by expanding the cleaned window opening.

Ordering a metal-plastic window

Before you contact a company with an order, you should think about what type of double-glazed window is right for you. It can be one-, two- or three-chamber. As for fittings and fasteners, you can also choose them yourself.

The manufacturer's consultants will help you understand the technical characteristics of plastic windows that will be preferable for your home at the time of ordering.

Some important points during installation

When installing windows yourself, you should pay attention to the following:

the metal-plastic structure must be well secured;
The mounting foam used to fix the windows must be plastered on both sides (this will prevent it from sagging and deforming the frame in the future);
It is very important to align the structure vertically and horizontally using a level (this will help avoid warping).

How to install metal-plastic windows with your own hands

Before starting installation, prepare everything you need for work:

Window frame with fasteners;
Building level;
Polyurethane foam;
Mount;
Bulgarian;
Windowsill.

The process of preparing a window block

Window preparation is an important stage of installation work that you carry out yourself. If necessary, the double-glazed windows and hinged sashes themselves are dismantled from the window structure. To release the double-glazed window, a chisel is used; very carefully, you need to use it to pick out the glazing bead (fastening) and after a light blow on the tool it will come out of the grooves. Then the vertical fasteners are removed, top and bottom. The released glazing beads will need to be marked; sometimes their sizes can differ significantly, which will lead to the formation of gaps of several millimeters. The glass unit will come out of the grooves on its own if you tilt the frame a little. Gently lean it against the wall, creating a slight angle.

Decorative plugs must also be removed from the swing doors, then unscrew the clamping bolts. If there is a transom opening system, release the top of the sash by turning the handle to the center and remove the hook from below.

Ultimately, you should end up with a free frame, on which there are only lintels separating and reinforcing the sashes. On the inner surface of the plastic frame, holes are cut along the contour for mounting anchors. The minimum number of such holes should be three for the sides, two for the lower and upper ends. For drilling, use metal drills, because the window is made of metal and plastic, and inside it has a metal inclusion for strength characteristics.

To fix the frame, it is preferable to take anchors with a diameter of 0.8-1 cm and metal drills of the same size.

Detailed instructions for installing windows

Finally, some tips for installation:

Comfort and coziness for you and your loved ones with new windows installed by yourself!

Today, owners of houses and apartments are massively replacing old wooden windows with practical and durable PVC structures. And this choice is quite justified for a number of reasons:

Due to increased thermal insulation, material costs for heating are significantly reduced.
High functionality and modern materials make it possible to avoid additional window maintenance work: tinting the frames to give them an aesthetic appearance; caulking cracks to insulate windows for the winter; removing the insulation from the window in the spring; pulling gauze over the sashes to protect against mosquitoes and other midges and other work that is implied in the operation of wooden window structures.
A sealed double-glazed window well insulates the room from noise, allowing you to maintain home comfort and protect the peace of the owners.
The structures have a long service life while maintaining impeccable functionality and aesthetic appearance.
The cost of a plastic window is lower than a similar wooden product. For example, the price of an unpainted double wooden frame without glass measuring 120x90 cm is 3,600 rubles, and a plastic window is 5,500 rubles. However, a wooden window will still need to be glassed and painted, which means additional time and materials. Whereas the plastic window is already ready for installation.

Those who are going to take on the task of installing plastic windows with their own hands often lack basic knowledge of how to do it correctly. That’s why we present this article here in the form of instructions to help owners who want to carry out the installation themselves.

Installing plastic windows has a number of nuances. For example, PVC windows are not such universal designs. And their use has a number of limitations. Thus, it is not recommended to use plastic windows in cold rooms without heating (verandas, canopies, attics, garages, bathhouses, etc.). By the way, window production and installation companies prefer not to talk about this. In addition, problems may arise when installing PVC window profiles in multi-storey buildings above the 4th floor.

When choosing a contractor to replace windows in your house, you may encounter the fact that the craftsmen simply will not delve into the intricacies of this issue. There are only a few people who have control over the situation and can comprehensively cover it.

First, let's try to figure out the question: does it even make sense to install PVC windows with your own hands? Contrary to popular belief, installing windows is not that difficult. To perform it, you do not need to stock up on professional equipment or gain special experience over a long period of time. The installation procedure itself consists of two stages:

dismantling the old structure;
installation of a new plastic window.

Usually dismantling takes from 0.5 to 1.5 hours. The actual installation of the window (we take an average window measuring 2x2 m) will take another couple of hours. It turns out that it will take a maximum of three and a half hours to replace one window. Therefore, during Saturday-Sunday you can freely change at least 2 windows without resorting to the help of specialists. Considering that installers charge $40-60 for installing each window, we get quite a good saving. Some companies set installation costs as a percentage of the cost of the windows. This amount varies among different specialists and is about 10-40% of the price that is proposed to be paid for the windows. Also, when ordering windows from specialized companies, they can deliver the new structure to your home and dismantle it free of charge.

When entrusting the installation of windows to specialists, you can demand the following guarantees:

When purchasing windows from a third-party company, installers provide a guarantee only on installation seams and their filling, the correct geometry of individual elements and the functionality of the window structure for 1 year after the work has been completed. Since self-installation practically deprives you of the warranty on window structures, you need to be more careful in choosing products. It is better to prefer windows manufactured at the factory, in compliance with all technical requirements and conditions. Handicraft products are a “pig in a poke”, the quality and functionality of which can present an unpleasant surprise. In this regard, to purchase window structures, it is advisable to contact directly a manufacturing company that has been operating on the market for a long time and has good reviews from numerous clients. By the way, if you order windows in winter or spring (that is, out of season), you can get a significant discount;
when purchasing windows from a company that carries out installation work, the customer receives a warranty on the fittings - from one year to 5 years (the more expensive the windows, the longer the warranty period, as a rule);
If the windows are installed with your own hands, then a warranty on the fittings must be requested at the place where the structures were purchased. You will have to take full responsibility for the quality of the seams.

Do-it-yourself installation of PVC windows should be done if you have:

a couple of free days (weekends as an option);
hard work and desire to learn something new;
desire to save money.

If all of the above is present, then the recommendations outlined in this article will allow you to successfully replace the windows in your house, doing it no worse than a professional installation team. Actually, a whole team is not required to install the window; two people will be enough, one of whom will carry out the installation, and the other will hold the structure and provide the necessary tools. Despite the apparent complexity, self-installation of PVC windows is a fairly simple process, representing a combination of several simple operations performed in a given sequence. Before you begin installation, you need to order a window, and this requires correct preliminary measurements. So…

Window measurements: everything you need to know

First, we determine the type of window opening.

It can be of two types: either with a quarter or without a quarter.

We take measurements of a window without a quarter

A clean window opening is the easiest to measure. Such an opening is found only in a new house. We measure the opening itself in the vertical plane and subtract 5 centimeters from the resulting figure. We have height. Of these 5 centimeters, 1.5 centimeters will be filled with mounting foam at the top of the window, and 3.5 centimeters will be laid for installing the window sill. Similarly, we measure the opening in the horizontal plane, subtract 3 centimeters for the gaps (1.5 cm on the right and left) and get the width of the window.

Next, measure the length and width of the ebb and window sill. To the resulting dimensions you need to add from 5 to 20 centimeters in order to “embed” the window sill a little into the wall on both sides. If you are getting down to business for the first time, then set the size of the window sill larger - during installation, all excess will be cut off. As a rule, window sills and ebbs have a standardized width (10-60 cm) and length (up to six meters). Having minimal dimensions, installers will be able to select and deliver the most suitable parts.

We take measurements of the window and a quarter

Width: measure the opening in the horizontal plane between the quarters and add three centimeters to the resulting figure (one and a half centimeters on each side). Height: measure the distance from the bottom edge of the opening to the edge of the top quarter. There is no need to add or subtract anything from the resulting figure.

The window sill and ebb are measured, as in the first option.

As a result, after all the measurements made, we should have written down:

window height and width;
length and width of the ebb;
length and width of the window sill.

When replacing old windows, the previous structure is located in the opening, which means that the opening itself cannot be measured. Therefore, it is necessary to take measurements from the window frame, which will subsequently be dismantled.

When ordering a window, try to find out what comes with the windows. Typically the following elements are included:

windowsill;
end caps. To choose the right plugs, you need to indicate the width of the window sill (the protruding part from the wall);
installation profile;
anchor plates – structural fastening elements.

If these parts are not included in the kit, you will have to purchase them additionally.

In addition to dimensions, other data may be required:

profile type (number of cameras);
double-glazed window option (number of glasses and air chambers);
type of opening window sashes. The most common: swing, tilt and turn with ventilation, combined. In addition, in some cases, blind windows are installed that cannot be opened. The type of opening is determined by the fittings installed in the structure. The ease of use, functionality and durability of the window depend on the type and quality of the fittings. There are several types of window openings. For convenient ventilation, the window should be equipped with tilt-and-turn fittings. Blind versions of the sashes are unsuitable for ventilation; conventional hinged sashes without turning are inconvenient.

Thermal conductivity and sound insulation of the window: so that noise and cold do not sneak into the house

Thermal conductivity of plastic windows

In addition to the manufacturer, when choosing a window, it is also necessary to take into account such quality as the thermal conductivity of the structure. According to SNiPs and territorial building codes, the heat transfer resistance coefficient of a window varies depending on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. Structures that are installed in residential premises should not have a heat transfer resistance lower than that specified for the specific region of residence.

Thermal conductivity directly depends on the design and type of glass used in the double-glazed window. If you order windows with energy-saving glass, the thermal insulation of structures increases by 10-15%. The cost of energy-saving glass is about 250 rubles. for 1 sq. m.

The thermal conductivity of a window may decrease due to poor-quality installation, or less often due to manufacturing defects. Very often, in the process of improper installation, a chip or crack appears on a double-glazed window, and the structure loses one of its main qualities - tightness. Visually, this manifests itself as fogging of the inner surface of the glass. As a result, in winter the room will become colder, and the house will have to be heated more.

To improve the thermal conductivity parameters of the window, you can prepare a support profile. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, the stand profile is the weakest point in the window structure. To attach the drain, you will have to drill it, which will further worsen the thermal conductivity parameters. To normalize the thermal insulation properties of the window, the internal volume of the stand profile can be filled with polyurethane foam. This should be done the day before installing the window so that the foam completely hardens. Foaming of the stand profile is not provided for by GOST; window companies also do not practice this operation.

Soundproofing properties of plastic windows

This parameter is essential if there is a busy highway or railway near the house. However, it is always more pleasant if external noise from the street does not penetrate inside the house. And this cannot be achieved without high-quality window sound insulation.

Methods for installing PVC windows: to unpack or not to unpack – that is the question!

When installing windows, you need to choose the type of installation - with unpacking (unpacking) or without unpacking. Want to understand how these two methods differ from each other? Take a look at the diagram of a plastic window.

Frame– one of the main elements of the window. The frame is formed from a reinforced PVC profile and several sealed chambers. The number of cameras can vary from two or more.
Double-glazed window- the largest element of the window, occupies about 80% of its area. It is a sealed structure consisting of glass. Depending on the number of glasses and air gaps between them, it can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. The double-glazed window fits tightly to the frame due to the seal.
Glazing beads– parts that allow you to mechanically secure the glass unit to the frame.
Impost– a divider, thanks to which the window is divided into several sashes. There are single-leaf, double-leaf, three-leaf, etc. designs.
Blind sash– a sash without an opening mechanism.
Transom- opening door.
Window sill(other names – bottom, mounting, stand) profile– load-bearing element of the window structure. It is necessary for the correct installation and fastening of a plastic window sill and external drain indoors.
Accessories– all moving parts of the structure intended for opening, closing, fixing the transom when ventilating the room.

Window installation method with unpacking

(in some regions the term “unpacking” is used, the essence is the same). This method is based on preliminary disassembly of the structure: glazing beads and double-glazed windows. After fixing the frame to the wall throughly, all removed elements are installed again.

To quickly and correctly unpack the structure, you need a strong knife or chisel. We insert a knife blade or chisel between the glazing bead and the frame, and with gentle blows on the handle, knock the glazing bead out of the groove until a gap appears. Then we bend the knife (chisel) and push the elements apart with the wide side. We consistently do this with all the glazing beads that hold the glass unit in the sash. It is not recommended to do this procedure with the sharp end of a knife, since it increases the risk of damaging the window or glazing bead. To remove the glass unit, be sure to wear gloves, otherwise you will injure your hands on the sharp corners of the structure. If the window is not solid and there are sashes, remove them. If there is a transom in one of the sashes, it is easier to remove the entire assembly without removing the glass unit. That's it, the structure is ready for installation.

Disadvantages of the method: more labor-intensive, takes longer than installation without unpacking (on average, 30-60 minutes are added for each window). Often, fogging of the glass unit occurs in a window installed using this method. In addition, the appearance of the glazing beads may be damaged (scratches, chips) if they are removed/installed carelessly. It is important to perform all actions clearly and carefully. After removing the bags, you need to put them in a safe place where there is no chance of accidentally touching them and breaking them.

Advantages and scope of application of the method: installation of windows with unpacking is more reliable and provides a strong fixation of the frame to the wall. This method should be chosen in the following cases:

— it is planned to fasten windows in multi-story buildings (from the 15th floor). When installing windows on the lower floors, where there is no wind and gusts of wind, they do not need to be unpacked;

— installation of structures of considerable size is to be done. However, in this case, combined installation is allowed (the balcony block is attached without unpacking).

Window installation method without unpacking

This method does not require disassembling the structure. That is, there is no need to remove double-glazed windows and glazing beads. The frame is secured to the wall not with dowels, but with fasteners pre-installed on the outside of the wall.

Advantages and scope of application of the method: Installing windows without unpacking saves time, shortening the process as much as possible. This method is recommended for use where there is no need for increased fastening strength: when replacing standard windows in private houses, and also, as mentioned earlier, in multi-storey buildings below the 15th floor.

Installation of windows with and without unpacking: sequence, features, advice from professionals

The installation of plastic windows is specific, so this work requires a special set of tools and materials, without which it is almost impossible to install windows correctly and accurately. If you can’t buy the things you need in a specialized store, you can contact a window company - the professionals will definitely find what you’re missing.

plumb and level
screwdriver and hammer drill
drill with a set of drills
gun and mounting foam;
hacksaw or jigsaw
small crowbar or pry bar
silicone gun
chisel or knife with a wide blade
mounting wedges
tape measure and pencil
roll moisture-proofing material
sheets of iron (galvanized) and metal scissors (needed for making drains yourself)

The main stages of installing PVC windows:

dismantling the previous structure and window sill;
preparing a new window for installation;
marking the frame for subsequent fastening;
fixing fasteners to the frame;
making holes for fasteners;
leveling the plastic structure;
securing the structure in the opening;
installation of low tide (can be done at the end of the process);
intermediate adjustment of fittings;
foaming the cavities between the window opening and the frame;
window sill installation;
final adjustment of fittings.

Each stage of installing a plastic window should be considered separately.

Dismantling old window structures

Preliminary stage: preparing the window for installation

Windows with movable sashes are mounted closed. When installing a window open, there is a risk of deformation of the structure (the foam that will fill the gap between the opening and the frame can bend the frame). After foaming, the window is left for 12 hours, during which it cannot be opened. And to avoid accidental opening of the sash, you can postpone the installation of the handle until the installation of the window is completed.

It is not recommended to remove the tape that covers the surface of the window to protect it from damage until the installation of the structure and finishing of the slopes are completed.

PVC window installation sequence

Marking on the frame for fastening points

We retreat 5-15 centimeters from the corner of the frame and mark a place for the outermost fixing element. The frame needs to be fastened on 4 sides, the fasteners are located every 70-100 cm. If a stand profile is used, the frame is not fastened from below.

Fixing the fastener to the frame

Fastening elements include self-tapping screws, anchor plates, and U-shaped hangers for drywall.

Anchor plates and hangers have the same price - $0.05 (wholesale), $0.15 (retail). However, anchor plates are thicker than hangers. When purchasing, give preference to products made from thicker metal.

The fastener must be tightly secured in the metal frame frame. In order for the element to secure well, the screws must be used for metal. Such products have a drill at the end and a diameter of 4 mm. You can also use simple self-tapping screws, only in this case you need to first mark the holes in the frame with a drill.

Applying recesses for fasteners

We place the frame with the fasteners attached to it in the window opening, then knock out recesses in the opening in the appropriate places (depth 2 - 4 cm, width similar to the size of the fasteners). The fasteners will later sink into these recesses. By completing this procedure, we will make it easier for ourselves to finish the slopes.

Tip: when installing a window without a mounting strip, you should place blocks of wood or other dense material under it so that it rises to the height of the window sill. Then it will be possible to attach the window sill not to the window frame, but under it. If there is a mounting plate, the frame will automatically rise to the desired height. Typically, the mounting strip is already fixed to the frame and does not require additional fixation.

Leveling the window structure

This stage is the longest in the entire window installation procedure. However, by aligning the window in the vertical and horizontal planes, we automatically give it the correct rectangular shape. To level the structure, you need wooden wedges or bars that are placed under the frame. The first pair of lower wedges is set, then you can immediately fix the window from above with an anchor plate. Next we place two wedges at the top, then on the left and right at the bottom and top of the window. If there is an impost, you also need to put a wedge under it. During these actions, it is important to ensure that the vertical posts do not deviate to another plane. It is convenient to level the window with two people, when one supports the structure, the second inserts wedges.

Attaching the window to the opening

Having achieved a perfectly level position of the window, i.e. Having set it correctly in level, we can proceed to fastening the structure. To do this, use dowels (diameter 6-8 mm, length 75-80 mm) or anchors (diameter 6-8 mm). The latter have a higher cost, but provide more reliable fixation. They are recommended to be used if the wall consists of shell rock, brick or foam concrete. Fastening on anchor plates is used if the block structure contains a thermal insert and the frame in the mounting plane cannot be mechanically secured. A dowel driven into concrete can withstand a load of up to 60 kg, which is quite enough to fix a window. For wooden walls, you can use screws with a diameter of eight millimeters.

Advice: do not immediately tighten the screws on the sides of the frame completely, leave 1 cm until they stop. There is no need to screw in the construction screws in the upper part of the structure yet. The frame will not go anywhere, and you will have the opportunity to check the uniformity of the gaps on the sides and, if necessary, move the frame in one direction or another. After the final fastening, this will be more difficult. If the uniformity of the gaps is satisfactory, the horizontal/vertical structure is maintained, you can completely fix the frame by screwing in the screws on top and tightening the remaining screws on the sides. After this, it is worth checking the horizontality and verticality of the structure again.

Fastening the ebb of a plastic window

Installation of ebb tides can be done at the very end. You can buy the ebb ready-made or make it yourself. It is best to secure this element under the window - this will prevent the penetration of water where it connects to the frame. Upon completion of the installation of the drain, the space between it and the profile is filled with foam. If it is not possible to attach the ebb under the frame, it is fixed directly to it, for which 9 mm metal screws are used.

Intermediate adjustment of fittings

It is necessary to tighten or loosen the window hinges so that the sash moves silently and freely when opening and closing. An open sash should not slam shut on its own. Correctly adjusted hinges will allow it to remain in the desired position.

When moving, does the sash “strike” where the locking hardware is installed? Move this element a little lower or higher.

Foaming the gaps between the opening and the frame

It is important to fill the gaps so that there are no voids left. Large cracks (more than two centimeters) are foamed in several stages, with a break between them of two hours. With this approach, there is no danger that the foam will deform the window as it expands. In addition, the consumption of polyurethane foam is saved, there is no excess that has to be cut off, and the quality of the assembly seam improves.

Since the foam hardens under the influence of atmospheric moisture, a lack of humidity in the room can lead to poor-quality polymerization. To avoid this, you need to lightly spray the area between the window opening and the frame with water before foaming, and after filling the cavity, spray the surface of the foam itself with water. If the air temperature during installation does not exceed five degrees, then winter or all-season foam is used. In warmer weather, you can use summer foam.

After polymerization of the foam, it is necessary to protect it from exposure to ultraviolet radiation. This stage can be combined with finishing the slope. But if you don’t want to make slopes yet, or plan to do it later, then the foam needs to be covered immediately, since it quickly collapses due to exposure to direct sunlight. In this case, we prepare a cement-sand mortar at the rate of 1 part cement and 2 parts sand, or dilute tile adhesive and cover the foam with any of these materials. In addition, you can purchase PSUL tape (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape) at a hardware store and cover the polyurethane foam with it. However, the cost of the tape is quite high (from $3 per linear meter), so the first options are used more often.

Window sill installation

1. Trimming. The window sills have a standard length and width and have a good margin, both in length and width. Before installation, the window sill is cut using a jigsaw, grinder or saw with small teeth.

2. Leveling. We move the window sill to the stand profile and level it using wooden blocks or other available materials.

We cover the side sections of the window sill with end caps. It is better to glue the end caps with super glue.

By lightly pressing on the window sill with your hand, we make sure that it does not sag. In some cases, the window sill is not installed level, but at a slight angle (no more than 3 degrees) “from the window.” Thanks to this slope, possible condensation does not flow under the window.

We foam the cavity under the window sill.

After foaming, place something heavy on the surface of the windowsill (you can use plastic water bottles or books for this purpose) and leave it like that for 0.5 days.

If you do not press down the window sill with a load, it will bend upward under the influence of foam.

3. One day is enough for the foam to completely harden. After which its remains, sticking out unsightly from the crack under the window sill, need to be cut off using a utility knife.

4. If the window sill was initially uneven, then during installation there may be a gap left between its upper part and the frame. It is carefully filled with silicone. It is worth considering that this material has low biostability and can turn black from fungus. A gap will not appear if galvanized iron plates in the shape of the letter “Z” are fastened to the window sill profile in advance (before installation). In addition to the fact that these plates will allow you to firmly grind the window sill, they will simplify the task of leveling it.

Final window adjustment

At this stage, you can remove the protective tape from the window structure and finally screw on the handle. If finishing the slopes is postponed, do not remove the tape until all finishing work is completed.

Possible errors when installing windows

Here we list the mistakes that are often made when installing windows and can negatively affect the ease of use and service life of the structure:

Installation is carried out with glazing beads facing outwards. This reduces the window's burglary resistance, since in this case the glazing beads can be easily removed from the outside and the glass unit can be pulled out.
The window is poorly aligned, making it difficult to open and close.
The polyurethane foam is not protected from the sun's rays, as a result of which it is destroyed.
Due to incorrect measurements or too low fastening of the window structure, the window sill cannot be placed under the frame and must be attached directly to it.
The window structure is not fixed by any fasteners and is held in place only by polyurethane foam. Then cracks may appear on the slopes, since foaming is not a full-fledged fastening. Over time, it loses strength and the window becomes so mobile that it can fall out.

We hope that after reading the article you will be able to successfully cope with the installation of PVC windows. And even if you decide to contact an installation organization, you will be able to understand and control this process at all stages.