How to grow chestnuts at home. How to plant and grow chestnut trees at home. How to grow chestnuts at home

Chestnut is a favorite of landscape designers. This tree decorates the streets and parks of cities and is widely used in creating unique garden and park areas. Chestnut with white candle inflorescences and large fan-shaped leaves is liked by everyone without exception. Let’s take a closer look at how to grow a healthy and strong tree from a nut (this is the name given to chestnut fruits that have been stripped of their prickly “coat”).

Preparation of planting material

Where can I get it? Of course, under the canopy of a large, beautiful chestnut tree. Fallen chestnuts are collected in the fall, and with a reserve, so that there is plenty to choose from for the best specimens for planting. Next, one of the stratification methods is selected.

1. The first method is simple. The fruits collected in the fall are placed right there between the roots of the “parent” tree, sprinkled with sand, covered with fallen leaves and left for several months. In the spring they are dug up, several are selected and planted where needed.

2. The second method is more complicated. The collected fruits are placed in a cellar, refrigerator or other cool place. They are stored there until spring, periodically checking to ensure that the planting material does not dry out.

Cold stimulates fruiting and starts the reproduction program. Dried fruit is not suitable for planting, because... unable to give rise to a new tree.

Don't want to wait until spring to plant chestnuts? Stratification can be accelerated. To do this, the fruits are placed in a container with wet sand and kept in a cool place for 10 days. This is quite enough to plant them in the fall.

Landing

Immediately before planting in the ground, the outer hard shell of the nut is prepared. In order to soften it, the fruits are immersed in warm water for a week, changing it daily. By the end of this period, a small white sprout usually appears. The sprouted nut is ready for planting. The planting depth should be 3 times the diameter of the nut itself.

The question arises: when is it better to plant chestnuts, in autumn or spring? Experts answer this way: plants planted in autumn produce much earlier shoots than those planted in spring. At the same time, spring specimens grow better and faster, and are of higher quality.

Care and feeding

So, a chestnut from a sprouted nut is planted in open ground. The next task - to grow a strong, healthy tree from it - requires patience, strength and certain knowledge. We offer several important care recommendations to help solve it:

  • Trees growing in common courtyards, squares and parks are fenced with pegs or wooden fences in order to protect them from the “human factor”.
  • In areas with difficult weather conditions, the trunk of a young chestnut is tied to a support so that it does not break under the influence of wind loads.
  • Young trees are provided with abundant watering. This is extremely important in the first years of life, while the plant’s root system is not sufficiently developed.
  • Every spring, dry and frozen branches are removed from the chestnut trunk, leaving healthy ones.
  • Starting at the age of 10 years, the crown is formed by competent, systematic pruning of branches.

A few words about how to properly fertilize the soil and feed plants.

  • The ideal soil for chestnut is loose loam. If in fact the soil does not meet this requirement, it is improved: clay is added to loose soil, and sand to clayey soil.
  • If the soil is depleted, it is fertilized with compost.
  • As a spring feeding, the following solution is added to the soil: per 10 liters of water - 1 kg of cow manure and 15 g of urea.
  • In autumn, feeding for chestnut is prepared from 15 g of nitroammofosk dissolved in 10 liters of water.

While young plants need regular watering, mature chestnuts only need to be watered during dry periods. Trees older than 10 years no longer require care.

As you can see, in order to plant a chestnut, you do not need seedlings from a nursery; this can also be done from a nut.

How to grow a decorative chestnut tree on a windowsill

Those who live “on the floor” and do not have a plot of land can grow a chestnut from a walnut in their apartment. This is quite easy to do.

In autumn, peeled chestnuts are planted in a pot for indoor plants and systematically watered. In spring, small white sprouts appear from the ground - a signal that the planting material is ready to be transplanted into separate pots.

In order to obtain a decorative chestnut bonsai, a young tree is grown for about a year or two in a regular flowerpot, like a houseplant. Then proceed as follows:

  • remove from the pot, clean the roots from the old soil;
  • cut the roots so that the root system acquires a flat shape;
  • plant the prepared chestnut in a container with bonsai soil mixture;
  • after the plant takes root (and this will happen quite soon), it, along with the lump, is transplanted into a special bowl.

The most patient and persistent can watch the chestnut bonsai bloom. With proper care, this occurs 10 years after planting.

Growing chestnuts from walnuts is quite an exciting activity, which, depending on the chosen variety, will allow you to get a tree that performs decorative functions or bears edible fruits. However, to do this, you will need to take into account the criteria for choosing a nut, understand the planting technology and the rules for subsequent care of seedlings. All these issues will be discussed in detail in this article.

Criteria for choosing a nut for planting

Initially, it will be necessary to obtain the nuts themselves; the features of this process and the choice of planting material are discussed below:

  1. It is allowed to collect nuts only from the ground, since fruits that have not fallen from the tree and are still growing are unripe and unsuitable for germination. The most suitable time for collection is September or October, depending on the climatic conditions in the region and the weather in a particular season.
  2. The nuts must be carefully examined; their surface must be even and smooth., without noticeable bumps or any visible damage.
  3. The surface of the walnut should be glossy and dark brown in color., which indicates maturation and the absence of damage by any diseases.
  4. A sufficiently large number of nuts must be collected, since not all of them will be able to ascend.

Preparation of planting material

Harvested nuts must undergo some preparation before planting, this process is discussed in more detail below:


Necessary conditions for growing chestnuts

One of the main advantages of this tree is that it does not require any special or additional conditions for growth.

Naturally, if it receives enough heat and sunlight, the chestnut will develop much faster and look stronger and more attractive, but in general it is undemanding to these factors, as well as to soil fertility.

  1. Initially, soak the nuts for one or several weeks in the refrigerator or other fairly cold place.
  2. Plant in well-moistened soil, preferably during the rainy season., since hardening occurs only under a combined combination of high humidity and cool conditions.


Planting a nut

After choosing a location and completing all preparatory procedures, you can proceed to planting a chestnut; this process is distinguished by its simplicity and is discussed in detail below:

  1. To plant one tree, it is recommended to take about 5-7 nuts, for which planting holes no more than 5 cm deep are prepared in the ground. The distance between seedlings should be approximately 15-20 cm.
  2. The top of the holes is sprinkled with ordinary garden soil., into which a small amount of river sand is added.
  3. No further action is required; for the winter, the planting material will be covered with snow and put into a dormant state. All that remains is to provide it with proper care with the onset of spring, and nature will do the rest on its own.

Care and feeding of the sprout

Regardless of whether home cultivation is practiced or initial planting in open ground, the young tree will need to be provided with appropriate care, all stages of which are described below:

  1. When planting a chestnut in the garden, you should immediately arrange pegs around it with wire and bright ribbon stretched between them, since in the early stages of life the sprout is very fragile and invisible, which increases the risk of accidental damage.
  2. Additional tying of the sprout may be required, especially when grown in areas that do not have protection from strong winds.
  3. Chestnut loves highly moist soils, so it will need regular and abundant watering., the frequency of which should be increased during persistent hot weather with minimal precipitation. You can pour several buckets of water under each seedling.
  4. At first, the chestnut will grow quite slowly, so pruning will not be necessary. It is necessary to form the crown and reduce the size of the tree only after 10-15 years, when its development becomes more rapid. Until this point, it will be enough to simply cut off weak shoots and dried branches as necessary. This is usually done in the spring, since not all shoots survive the cold winter period.

Chestnut grows best on loose and moist loamy soils, so when grown in other places, care will also consist of adding additional components to the soil, as well as seasonal fertilizing.

All features of this process are described in more detail below:

  1. When grown in soil with a clay structure, a significant amount of sand must be added to it. Otherwise, stagnant water may form, which leads to rotting of the root system.
  2. If the soil is very loose, then the required amount of clay must be added to change its structure.
  3. When grown on depleted soil, which lacks the required amount of nutrients and the proper level of fertility, a mixture of compost or rotted manure, which is mixed with garden soil, is required.
  4. When growing chestnuts at home, you will need complementary feeding in the spring with a mixture, which can be obtained by mixing 15 g. urea and 1 kg of mullein, followed by dilution in 10 liters of water.
  5. In autumn, the mixture is added to the soil, obtained by diluting in 10 liters of water no more than 15 g. nitroammofoski.


How to grow a decorative chestnut tree on a windowsill

An alternative cultivation option is to plant nuts at home and then transplant them into open ground. The features of this process are discussed below:

  1. To optimize storage space, all nuts can be laid out in layers in one container with moist soil, then sprinkled with wet sand on top and placed in the refrigerator for several months. Such conditions are necessary to simulate the dormant mode that occurs in chestnut trees in winter in natural conditions.
  2. Planting material must be checked at the end of February, by this period all the nuts should already swell and begin to produce the first sprouts, thanks to which the shell begins to burst.
  3. Even if there are no first shoots, it will be necessary to replant. For this, another container with soil is selected, which is garden soil mixed in equal proportions with sand. Planting material is buried into it by 4-5 cm.
  4. For 1-2 months you need to constantly moisten the soil, not letting it dry out, and wait for the first shoots to appear.
  5. It is necessary to wait until the thickness of the seedling is equal to approximately half the little finger. Soon after this, at least two well-formed leaves should appear on it, usually this happens within a week.
  6. The ascended chestnut can be grown at home over the next year, but most experienced gardeners recommend replanting it in open ground as early as May. This will allow the seedling to adapt to its new conditions, receive a sufficient amount of moisture and solar heat, and also have enough time to prepare for the first winter.


Basic mistakes

Below are the most common mistakes made when growing chestnuts from nuts, as well as ways to correct them:

  1. There are a large number of varieties of chestnut, all of them are differently sensitive to soil quality, climatic conditions, terrain and other factors. For this reason, if nuts are collected far from the intended planting site or planting material is purchased, then it is necessary to find out about its individual characteristics.
  2. An edible variety of chestnut is suitable for consumption; you can try to grow it, then the tree will perform not only decorative functions, but also bring certain benefits. The fruits go well with many dishes, but require preliminary preparation and cannot be eaten raw.
  3. Regardless of the variety of chestnut grown, it can be used for medicinal purposes. Virtually all parts of the tree are suitable for this: fruits, seeds, foliage, bark, branches, juice. All of them are part of many traditional medicines, which in most cases are used to relieve pain or normalize the functioning of the digestive system.

The southern handsome chestnut came to us from the Balkan Peninsula. Most gardeners try to decorate their summer cottage with a flowering tree that provides good shade and withstands weather surprises. How to grow a chestnut from a walnut is the topic of our article.

How to grow chestnut from a nut

First of all, you need to decide which chestnut to grow - edible (for sowing) or decorative. The fruits of a tree from the beech family are eaten. “Horse chestnut” (aesculus) with luxurious candle-shaped inflorescences, decorating parks, squares and streets, belongs to the Sapindaceae family and produces inedible fruits.

Sowing species are not particularly popular. They begin to bear fruit only after 25-30 years; such chestnuts are planted and grown with a long-term future. “Horse chestnut” tolerates short frosts down to -35°C, while the seed variety is more delicate and cannot withstand the cold. Growing and caring for seed chestnut and horse chestnut are no different. Let's consider whether it is possible to grow a full-fledged tree from a shiny nut.

Growing methods

In the fall, cuttings can be cut from a chestnut branch and then planted in the country house. If this is not possible, collect fruits and nuts and germinate them. Planted in two ways:

  1. Directly into open ground.
  2. Having grown a walnut seedling at home.

Selection of planting material

When independently collecting nuts for subsequent planting, they are carefully inspected. Fruits with damaged shells and spots of rot are subject to rejection. When purchasing planting material, pay attention to the frost resistance of the selected variety.

For cultivation in central Russia, jagged (American), Japanese, seed and Chinese types of noble chestnut are suitable. In Siberia and the Urals, it is extremely difficult to cultivate chestnuts; only varieties that are highly resistant to frost are selected from among shrubby or medium-sized varieties (up to 10 m).

Remember! Frost-resistant zoned varieties may not survive particularly harsh winters. At best, the result will be a decrease in yield.

Requirements for landing conditions

Chestnuts are undemanding to cultivation conditions; even infertile soil is suitable for them.

Landing

Chestnut fruits can be planted in the spring, after stratification at home, and in the fall - in open ground or for seedlings.

At home

Fruits collected or purchased in the fall are kept at home at a low temperature, packed in a cotton or linen bag. Plastic bags do not allow air to pass through, the seed material suffocates and becomes unviable. When winter finally sets in, the nuts are transferred to a container and sprinkled with wet sand or sphagnum. Then the container is placed in the refrigerator until the end of February.

Important! To germinate chestnuts, it is necessary to maintain humidity, but not to “drown” the nuts in water.

By the end of winter, the fruits swell, the shell of the strongest ones bursts. Beak sprouts appear from seeds at a temperature of 4–5°C. The nuts are immediately planted in cups 7–8 cm high with soil so that the layer of soil mixture below and above is at least 2 cm. Next, the seedlings are placed on a lighted windowsill, protected from direct sunlight.

Chestnuts can be planted in a permanent location when the leaves unfurl. However, experienced summer residents recommend holding off and letting the tree grow stronger for a year or two at home. With this option, the plants are given a cold winter: the pots are moved to a cool place with moderate lighting. In the spring they are placed on window sills, in the summer they are placed outdoors.

In open ground

Nuts are planted in autumn or spring, having previously prepared them. Algorithm for autumn planting chestnut fruits:

  1. Stratification of seed material. The fruits, placed in a cardboard box or wooden box, are covered with sand and put in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.
  2. Planted on school beds in grooves 5–6 cm deep.
  3. The grooves are spilled with plenty of water, the nuts are placed in increments of 12–15 cm, and they are covered.

Shortly before spring planting, the nuts are placed in a suitable container and filled with warm water. Change the water 1-2 times a day. The swollen fruits are planted in the furrows.

Interesting! From the advice of a summer resident: “We germinate chestnuts like this: between the roots of large trees, where the soil is loose, we cover the fruits with fallen leaves. In the spring we find several pieces with sprouts.”

General rules for caring for seedlings

Caring for seedlings is not burdensome. In the first year, drying out of the soil is unacceptable, then - moderate watering and after each procedure - weeding and loosening the soil.

Advice: “Mulching with peat, humus or tree bark will help moisture remain in the ground, keep the soil loose, and protect the plant from weeds.”

Seedlings are fed only leaf by leaf. It is preferable to use biological products “Mycorrhiza”, “Trichodermin”, “Fitosporin”, which protect against pests and prevent diseases.

Transfer to the street

Transplanting a sprout from a seed to the street does not require additional knowledge and skills.

Transplant timing

The second half of May is considered optimal for replanting for temperate climates, when the risk of return frosts is negligible. In the south, where spring comes earlier, sprouted nuts are planted already in April, focusing on the current weather. It is not recommended to plant seedlings in the fall; they do not always have time to take root in a new place before the onset of winter.

Choosing a location and preparing a hole for planting

An adult tree has a wide crown - five or more meters in diameter, depending on age. It is recommended to allocate a spacious area for the future tree in the garden, where there are no light-loving plants at a distance of 3 m.

In the first few years, young trees need light shade and protection from the wind. Therefore, a place can be chosen, for example, among plantings of early flowering perennials - hellebores, primroses, tulips and other bulbous plants. For normal development of the tree, loams with a slightly alkaline reaction are most suitable. The pit for planting a seedling is prepared as follows:

  1. Make a hole with a diameter one and a half times larger than that of the seedling container, adding 10–15 cm for drainage.
  2. Sand and humus (2:1) are added to the excavated soil to make it more loose and nutritious. You can add a little complex mineral fertilizer.
  3. For drainage, pebbles or crushed stone are placed in a layer of at least 10 cm.
  4. Pour in the prepared soil mixture.

The seedling is carefully removed from the cup, being careful not to damage the taproot, which is responsible for growth. Having placed it so that the root collar is above the surface of the earth, the hole is filled with soil and compacted. Upon completion of planting, the sprout is watered abundantly, the tree trunk circle is mulched with organic matter (peat, bark, wood chips, humus).

Important! For the first few days, the seedlings are covered with a paper bag to mitigate the effects of shock caused by the change in growing conditions.

If the place chosen for the chestnut is blown by winds, the seedling is surrounded by a low fence in the first years, and a support peg is installed in the 3rd–4th year.

Layout

If you plan to plant a chestnut alley or picturesque groups of trees on a lawn for recreation, you need to place the seedlings at a distance of at least 4 m from each other. Since caring for them is difficult under such circumstances, summer residents act differently:

  • allocate space for a garden bed for growing seedlings;
  • plants are planted in rows at a distance of 1–1.2 m from each other, step – 0.8–1.0 m;
  • When the trees reach 2–3 years of age, they are moved to a permanent location.
On a note! Bonsai lovers grow and shape a tree in their apartment. However, this requires a spacious room. But you can try to form a chestnut tree in an exotic style directly at the dacha.

Seedling care

Decorative and noble chestnuts are undemanding in care.

Watering

Until 5–6 years of age, trees need to be provided with regular watering, not allowing the soil to dry out, but also not making it waterlogged. They take settled water, and choose the time taking into account their own capabilities: morning hours or after sunset. Regular renewal of the mulch layer will protect the trees from lack of moisture. After watering, be sure to loosen the soil and weed the plantings.

Feeding

Seedlings are fed once a year. In the spring, after the snow melts, add the following mixture per 15 liters of water:

  • potassium-phosphorus fertilizer – 25 g;
  • ammonium nitrate – 20 g;
  • urea – 20 g.

If growth is weak, you can add nitroammophoska in the fall.

Disease and pest control

For a young tree, fungal diseases pose the greatest danger. The main sign of the disease is red, drying leaves. Treatment is carried out by spraying with Bordeaux mixture or Fundazol.

At the same time, cultivate the soil within a radius of about a meter. The main pests that threaten young plants are aphids and spider mites. Seedlings are treated against aphids with folk remedies (infusions of garlic or onions, tansy, Caucasian chamomile) or “Fitoverm”. Tick ​​prevention is carried out every 2 weeks with solutions of karbofos or Fitoverm. Among the folk remedies, infusions of dissected hogweed or black henbane help.

Pruning and crown formation

The first pruning is carried out when the chestnut tree reaches 3 years of age. To form a lush, spreading crown, the seedling is cut to a quarter of its height. Side shoots are shortened. Formative pruning is carried out annually until the crown of the desired shape is obtained. Afterwards, broken and dry branches and shoots frozen in winter are regularly removed.

How to prepare for winter

A correctly selected chestnut variety will allow it to overwinter without shelter. But for the first few years, teenage trees grown from cuttings or nuts need additional protection. It consists of the following: mulching with a thick layer of peat or compost and wrapping the stem with burlap or other fabric in several layers.

On a note! If the tree trunk has been damaged by frost, in the spring the affected areas are disinfected and covered with a layer of garden varnish.

A beautiful and unusual plant that will become a real decoration for any site, landscape composition or windowsill is the chestnut. According to folk superstitions, this tree brings good luck and improves energy. There are many tips and recommendations that allow you to grow chestnuts at home without making much effort, the main thing is to choose the right planting material and meet certain conditions.

Description and varieties of wood

You can keep the plant at home for about a year. With the onset of spring warmth, it is advisable to place the container in the open air, in a shaded place, to protect the plant from direct sunlight. But we must not forget about watering, since the soil dries out quickly in the pot, and fertilize it 2 times a month; complex flower fertilizers are suitable for this purpose.

With the onset of cold weather, it is better to bring the pot indoors, provide it with a cooler temperature and water it moderately.

Drop off location

You need to properly prepare the hole where the chestnut will grow. This is done like this:

  • A drainage layer is poured.
  • Then you should add a little slaked lime.
  • Next is the fertile land.

The seedling is transferred into the resulting hole; after planting, it is advisable to water the plant abundantly and, especially at first, monitor the soil moisture.

Watering and fertilizing

Care is carried out in the same way as for other plants: you need to apply fertilizers in a timely manner, loosen the soil and remove weeds. The tree has a fairly developed root system, so it should be watered with plenty of liquid. If the summer is hot, it is necessary to water at least once every 30 days, using about 10 liters of water.

If you want to plant several trees, then you need to maintain an interval of about 4-5 meters between them, since mature chestnuts have a rather lush crown.

The best time for fertilizing is spring; you can prepare good fertilizer on your own. The required "ingredients" are:

  • Water (three 5-liter buckets).
  • Manure - 1 kg.
  • Ammonium nitrate - 10 g.
  • Urea - 15 g.

You should also add a complex fertilizer containing potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus; take 25 g of it. The resulting mixture is used to moisten the soil under the tree.

As winter approaches, it is recommended to cover young chestnut seedlings with fallen leaves and burlap. Spring time is the best time to trim diseased, dry branches and form a neat crown. This will rejuvenate the plant and extend its life.

Decorative tree

If you don’t have a summer cottage, you can plant walnut chestnuts at home; this is not difficult to do even if you have no experience. In autumn, the strongest fruits are collected, peeled and planted in pots for indoor plants. Next, you should ensure regular moderate moisture, under no circumstances flooding the soil, otherwise the planting material will rot.

In the spring, the white sprouts that have hatched are planted in separate pots, in which the mini-chestnuts will continue to “live.” If you wish, you can even grow an unusual bonsai; for this, for the first 24 months the tree is grown as an ordinary indoor plant, providing it with light, warmth and regular watering. Then do this:

  • Remove the plant from the pot and free the roots from the earthen ball.
  • Trim the root system so that it becomes flat.
  • Plant the tree in a pot with bonsai soil.
  • When the plant takes root, it, together with a lump of earth, is transplanted into a special flat pot.

You may also encounter brown or red-brown spotting; with these diseases, black dots appear on the leaves of the tree, which become more and more frequent every day. To prevent the death of the tree, you should promptly trim and destroy infected branches, prevent the “green pet” from becoming waterlogged, and heal wounds and cracks formed on the trunk.

If infection has already occurred, fungicides will help. However, it is important to remember that these poisons are harmful not only to insects, but also to people.

Having familiarized yourself with the different methods of germinating chestnuts, you can choose the optimal one, but you need to be patient, since it will take many years to grow an adult plant. But the result will please you - a beautiful, strong tree, in the shade of which you can relax on a hot day, will allow you to enjoy delicious nuts in the fall.

Chestnuts belong to the ornamental plants of the beech family. Recently, their popularity has been constantly increasing, because they are a favorite of landscape designers. Chestnut has many advantages: a beautiful, easy-to-form crown, spectacular flowering and rapid growth. Purchasing seedlings is an expensive matter, especially since you can quite successfully plant chestnut trees yourself. The main intricacies of growing chestnuts are discussed in our article.

Only mature and undamaged chestnuts are suitable for planting. They need to be collected at the end of summer - beginning of spring, when they fall en masse from the trees. After the prickly amniotic membrane has burst, the chestnuts are suitable for further cultivation.

You can plant chestnuts in two ways:

  1. Deepen the collected nuts into the ground in the fall of the same season.
  2. Store and germinate at home by planting the grown seedlings in open ground in the spring.

Both methods are quite well tested in practice and have their pros and cons. If chestnut grows on your site, you can use the natural method of stratification and germination. To do this, the fruits are simply covered with foliage near the mother plant and left until spring. In spring, chestnuts are harvested and planted in the ground. They have already passed the required level of hardening, so there should be no problems with survival.

By the way, at the beginning of the season, seedlings may spontaneously grow around the tree, which can simply be transplanted to another place. This method is quite simple and effective, but subject to free access to the tree. If it grows in a park, you should not dig up a young tree, because this is fraught with fines and other troubles. In this case, it is better to return to the methods of growing chestnut described above; each of them is described in more detail below.

Autumn planting of nuts

Planting nuts in the fall has many benefits. Plants receive the necessary hardening, have strong immunity and good germination. In addition, chestnuts are not capricious and can grow in any soil and in the most extreme conditions. When planting, you should take into account the future dimensions of the tree so that it does not subsequently shade the beds and fruit bushes.

The landing algorithm is extremely simple:

  • A few days before planting, you can soak the nuts in warm water. This will make the peel softer and make it easier for the sprout to “hatch”.
  • The penetration into the ground is carried out approximately 5-7 centimeters. For regions with cold winters, you can play it safe and deepen the chestnut tree by 10-15 centimeters, and cover the top of the bed with fallen leaves or agrofibre.
  • In the spring, friendly shoots will appear at the planting site, which are thinned out as necessary, leaving the strongest ones, watered and weeded.
  • At first, seedlings need active watering and loosening. You can tie up the trunk so that it grows evenly.
  • Crown pruning usually occurs when the tree reaches 8-10 years of age. If small decorative plantings are planned, crown formation begins much earlier.

The disadvantage of planting chestnuts in the fall with nuts is the risk of spoilage of the nuts by rodents. Plantings can be protected with special wire shelters, as well as with natural methods (spraying the soil with strong-smelling substances, planting herbs and plants).

The proposed video clip will show how to properly plant a chestnut seedling.

Growing chestnuts from walnuts at home

This method is ideal for harsh climates, because there is no guarantee of a safe winter for the planted seeds. It is much easier to germinate nuts at home; you just need to follow the basic rules for success.

How to land:

  • Collected chestnuts must be stored in a fabric bag in a cool room. A balcony, veranda or fairly dry basement will do.
  • After the first frosts begin, you can begin planting.
  • First, the seeds need to be hardened. To do this, they are placed in a shallow container and sprinkled with wet sand.
  • For planting, select the largest fruits that are round in shape and without damage.
  • After standing for 10-15 days in such conditions, the chestnuts will begin to sprout the first shoots. This is a signal to plant in the ground.
  • The growing container or individual pots must be filled with a nutritious earthen mixture. Chestnuts are planted shallow in the ground (about the height of a nut).
  • Further care comes down to watering and loosening. The first shoots appear after 15-20 days.
  • In spring, the plant is transplanted to a permanent place. This can be done after the soil has sufficiently warmed up, around the end of April - beginning of May.
  • Further care comes down to watering and loosening, as well as weeding. Chestnuts are unpretentious to growing conditions; fertilizing can be done while fertilizing other garden trees.
  • In hot weather, the leaves can get burned, so it is advisable to shade the plants a little in the first year.

The final “maturation” of the tree can be expected 10 years after planting. Upon reaching this age, the chestnut does not require special conditions and care. It can receive all nutrients and moisture thanks to its branched root system. The only thing that remains for the gardener is to monitor the condition of the branches and leaves: perform formative pruning and, if necessary, treat the plant for characteristic diseases and pests.

An unusually beautiful spreading chestnut tree will become a real decoration of your site. It grows quickly, does not require specific conditions and care, and its crown can be shaped as desired. The main points on how to properly plant and grow a chestnut from a nut, as well as some of the subtleties of this process, are discussed in our article.

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