Installing a steel bathtub with legs - a step-by-step master class. How to install a cast iron bathtub in a bathroom? What to install a cast iron bathtub on

Any equipment in the house is selected taking into account the tastes of the owner and creating maximum comfort in it. The bathroom is no exception, but at the same time it is equipped with plumbing products that can last a very long time - they are usually not replaced during cosmetic repairs. All this time, the equipment must operate without failures, so installation of communications requires a careful approach and compliance with all rules.

Despite the fact that bathtubs on the modern market are made of a variety of materials, cast iron products are in constant demand. This is due to their advantages such as:

  • strength;
  • ability to retain heat for a long time;
  • good sound insulation;
  • the weight of the bath, giving it stability and allowing it to be installed both along the wall and in the center of the room.

Choosing a bath

The choice of bathtub depends on the availability of sewerage and water connections. If it is prepared or there are old communications, then the product is selected taking into account their parameters.

In addition, there are other subtleties that people pay attention to when choosing a bath:

  • Room design - the product is selected taking into account the interior of the room, especially since the choice of enamel shades allows this to be done without much difficulty.

  • The size of the bathtub must correspond to the parameters of the doorway - otherwise it will be impossible to carry it through it without the risk of damaging the frame.
  • The quality of the enamel coating - there should be no chips or scratches on it.
  • Reviews about the manufacturer of the selected plumbing equipment.

Installation of a cast iron bathtub - preparatory stage

Before proceeding directly to the installation of a cast iron bathtub, the following preparatory measures are carried out:

  • Dismantling old equipment, if any.
  • Installation of water distribution and sewerage systems.
  • Finishing walls and floors with tiles (article https://site/kak-vylozhit-kafel-v-vannoj/) at the request of the owner.

Installation of a cast iron bath

The bathtub is installed at its location. It is better to bring the product into the room together, as well as to install it - its heavy weight during operation is more of a drawback than an advantage.

When working, in addition to the bath itself, you will need:

  • a set of legs - usually it comes with the product, but sometimes it is purchased separately;

  • siphon;
  • drain-overflow;

  • adjustable wrench;
  • level;
  • screwdrivers;
  • bolts;
  • sealant.

Installing legs on a cast iron bathtub

  1. To avoid damaging the enameled surface, the floor in the room is covered with cardboard or thick plastic film.
  2. The product is laid on the mat sideways, with the bottom facing the wall, at a distance of about 70 cm from it.
  3. The support is installed on special brackets located on the bottom using bolts and an adjustable wrench or metal wedges.

The best option would be to purchase adjustable legs - they will help you level the product. Otherwise, the floor must have a perfectly flat surface.

Installation of a drainage system

  1. The siphon is connected to the drain hole through rubber gasket rings.
  2. An overflow is installed with the obligatory use of rubber gaskets and connected to a hose to drain water.
  3. Using a coupling, the overflow pipe is attached to the siphon.

For reliability, all connections are treated with silicone sealant.

Installing a cast iron bathtub on bricks

During operation of a cast iron bathtub, the fastenings of the legs may become loose. This is due to the weight of the product, poor-quality fasteners, etc. As a result, the structure warps and the water does not completely drain into the sewer. It is difficult to correct the situation, so often a cast-iron bathtub is installed on a brick frame.

There are several options for supports for a brick bathroom:

  • two scaffolds;

  • pillars around the perimeter of the product;
  • supports on the corners or sides of the bowl;

  • solid brick platform;

  • bed for the bottom of the bath.

The last option is used most often: a masonry of two bricks is made, then half a brick is added to its sides and a recess (“bed”) is created with the help of mortar for the bottom.

A solid platform is located between all the legs of the bathtub. Before laying the brick, markings are applied to the floor with chalk or pencil.

To ensure that the structure does not collapse under the weight of the bathtub, the masonry must dry out for at least one day. Only then can you lay the bath on it. After its installation, the brickwork is coated with mortar again to improve adhesion.

When using any method of installing a bathtub on bricks, you should remember that the product is slightly inclined (2 cm) to the drain hole. This is done for better release of water into the sewer.

Grounding

A large number of electrical appliances installed in the bathroom are sources of danger to human health. Therefore, grounding the bathtub has become a necessary element when installing it. Modern products have a special jumper for attaching the wire.

For grounding, a long insulated cable (2 m or more) with a cross-section of 6 sq/mm is used. The other end of the wire is connected to a special distributor or metal water pipe.

Installation of a cast iron bath

  • After the two legs are installed, the bathtub is carefully turned over and placed on them.
  • A reliable support is placed under the other side, and the remaining supports are attached.

  • The bathtub is leveled using screws in the adjustable legs.
  • The fixing nuts are tightened.

  • A flexible hose is connected to the sewer.
  • The gap between the wall and the bathtub is filled with silicone sealant.

  • A control filling of the bath is carried out: the tightness of the structure and the correct installation are checked.

Alignment is carried out from one side and end of the product. If the bathtub is located near the wall, then the gap from it should be 1-2 mm.

Installation of a cast iron bathtub, video:

  1. If the floor in the room is not very strong, then metal or plastic pads with a thickness of at least 5 mm are placed under the supports.
  2. Thin metal legs, which are sometimes included, require the installation of additional supports. Only in this case will the fastening of the cast iron bathtub be reliable.
  3. For normal operation of the siphon, the distance from the floor to the bottom of the product must be 14.5 cm.
  4. A cast iron bathtub will stand more securely if you use a combined installation method - on legs and a brick support.
  5. The metal siphon drain grid is more reliable than the plastic one - it is more rigid and presses the rubber rings more tightly.

Cast iron bathtubs have been used for a very long time. Their popularity is explained by their high wear resistance and almost unlimited service life. In addition, cast iron structures retain heat well and, due to their large weight, cannot tip over under the weight of a person.

It is almost impossible to install such a bathtub alone. Therefore, it is recommended to invite a partner to install a cast-iron bathtub yourself. Instructions for installing a cast iron bathtub with your own hands can be found in this article.

List of required tools

All tools can be purchased at any hardware store.

Installation of a cast iron bathtub involves the use of the following tools:

  • grinder and diamond disc for concrete;
  • building level;
  • construction ruler;
  • hammer;
  • screwdriver;
  • wrench;
  • marker;
  • silicone sealant;
  • roulette;
  • putty knife;
  • hacksaw or metal scissors.

Measuring the height of the bathtub with legs attached

Before measuring, you need to turn the bathtub over, place it on the floor and secure the legs to it. Usually they come included. The legs are attached in two ways:

  • using bolts - this method makes it possible to level the bowl;
  • using wedges - in this case, the holes on the bowl are compared with the holes on the legs, and wedges are driven between them;

After fastening, you need to check the correct installation of the legs using a building level. Then the height is measured along with the legs. The locations of the grooves are marked on the wall with a marker.

Afterwards, the legs are removed, since it will be problematic to bring the entire assembled structure into the room.

Cutting grooves in the walls of the bathroom for what and how

The grooves are cut for additional fixation of the bowl so that it does not wobble during use. You can make them using a grinder.

The grooves are in close contact with the edges of the tiles, so the risk of water getting into them is minimal. The joint is treated with silicone sealant, and a ceramic border is fixed on top for decoration.

How to make a groove correctly?

If the length of the bowl and the width of the room are the same, then the groove is cut in three walls, but if the width of the room is larger, then in two adjacent ones. Afterwards the bathtub is inserted into them and pressed tightly against the wall.

Only a grinder with a diamond blade is suitable for cutting. It is recommended to cover the doorway with a damp cloth, put on a protective mask and goggles to protect against dust.

Installing a profile under the edges of the bathtub: why and how

This method involves cutting grooves for two short sides of the bowl. The long side is fixed to a galvanized profile, which is used for working with drywall.

The profile itself is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws. After installation, all edges and joints with the profile and the wall are carefully treated with silicone sealant, providing protection against water getting into the cracks.

How to bring a cast iron bathtub into the bathroom

Cast iron fonts can weigh more than 150 kilograms, and you can only lift it to the floor yourself, without using an elevator. You need to carry it with the drain hole facing the direction of movement.

Only two people will be needed for transportation; a third person on a narrow flight of stairs will only get in the way. The bowl should be brought into the room by turning it sideways.

To avoid scratches and chips on the surfaces of the floor and door frame, they must be protected with any soft material.

The washing container should be placed vertically so that it does not interfere with the performance of all further necessary actions. Afterwards, the legs are re-attached to it, the reliability of their installation is checked and the font is carefully turned over to a horizontal position.

After which it is moved as close as possible to the wall and inserted into the grooves. Experienced specialists recommend applying a layer of sealant or glue to the gutters in advance for a more reliable fixation.

Connecting the bathtub to the sewerage system

Installation of a cast iron bathtub requires connection to the sewerage system.

Installation of the bath siphon is carried out following the attached instructions. The siphon itself usually comes with the bathtub. It is necessary to ensure the drain is sealed using rubber or silicone gaskets.

They are also included in the kit, so during assembly of the siphon they must be installed in the indicated places.

It is important to know that the siphon consists entirely of plastic elements, so assembly must be done by hand, without using keys or other tools.

Methods for connecting a bathtub siphon to a sewer pipe

There are only two ways:

  1. Through a plastic sewer pipe. This method is more preferable; the pipe is adjusted by the master, ensuring a rigid connection. At the same time, the smooth walls of the pipe simply cannot retain debris, so cleaning needs to be done much less frequently than when using a corrugated pipe.
  2. Using a corrugated tube included in the kit. This method is inconvenient, since the corrugated surface collects all the dirt and has to be constantly cleaned. It is recommended to install such a pipe only if absolutely necessary.

How to attach a siphon with a corrugated tube to a sewer pipe:

  1. Place rubber or silicone rings on the siphon threads and place the nut inside the drain.
  2. Using a union nut and a siphon, connect the pipe and the corrugated tube.
  3. Using a nut, connect the structure with the corrugation, not forgetting to put on the rubber gasket and tighten the ends.
  4. Insert a gasket into the nut and close the hole to clear the pipe from blockages.
  5. Connect the corrugation to the hole in the overflow tube.
  6. Connect the structure with the gasket located on the drain. Fix the drain inside the bathtub and connect it to the plastic drain with a nut.
  7. Place a gasket on the corrugated drain and secure the nut at the bottom.
  8. Press the overflow bolt to the back of the tub and insert it into the drain. Pull all the elements together.
  9. Connect the corrugated pipe to the sewer pipe with a special rubber ring.

It is recommended to purchase a siphon in the shape of the letter S or U - they are equipped with holes for clearing the drain if it is clogged. To ensure that water does not linger and flows into the drain at the required speed, place the siphon elbow above the sewer pipe by approximately five centimeters.

After installation, the system should be checked for leaks.

To do this, place sheets of paper or newspaper under the siphon and sewer pipe so that in case of a leak you can immediately determine the places where water is dripping from. Then close the drain with a stopper and fill with water (approximately 5 - 6 liters). Then drain the water and carefully monitor the system. Carry out the procedure three times. If nothing is leaking and the water moves down the drain quickly, the installation can be considered successful.

If water drips, carefully check the entire structure and treat questionable areas with silicone sealant.

Installation of a cast iron bathtub on brick stands

Installing a cast iron bathtub on bricks is a very reliable method of fastening. Bricks can withstand intense weight loads and are not subject to corrosion.

Of course, it is also convenient to install the bowl on the legs, but after about ten years of daily use, the legs begin to loosen. Therefore, the bowl changes its position, and the water does not flow into the drain for a long time. With brick stands this problem will never arise.

How to place a bathtub on brick stands:

  1. First of all, measure the bowl and determine the location of the supports. To do this, measure a distance of 25 centimeters in each direction from its middle. These will be the places for supports.
  2. The optimal height is from 50 to 70 centimeters.
  3. Using a cement mixture, brick laying is done at the marked points. The recommended width is one brick.
  4. It is recommended to place a false wall under the front edge. The brick is placed on edge and masonry is carried out. You need to leave a window in the wall for servicing the water supply in the event of a breakdown.
  5. After the stands have completely dried, rubber pads are placed on top.
  6. Next, install the bowl on the bricks. All actions are carried out carefully, coordinating each with a partner.
  7. The bottom is leveled to the building level.
  8. After installation, the structure is checked for strength. If there are even minimal movements, the cup is carefully inspected and any deficiencies are eliminated.

There is another way to install on bricks - creating a podium from them.

In this case, a podium with a recess inside is laid out of bricks, and the font is then inserted into it. This method is used to install bathtubs made of acrylic and steel, which have less stability.

Leveling a cast iron bathtub

Alignment after installation is necessary, but difficulties can arise here too. The fact is that the edges of the bathroom are often uneven due to the nature of production. This is especially typical for models manufactured in our country.

In such a situation, tiles that are laid out level are a great help. The edges of the bowl are aligned along it.

Uneven floors are leveled using a concrete screed.

The bath itself is leveled to the building level using metal plates and pieces of tiles that are placed under the legs. Some bathtubs come with adjustable legs.

Before installation, you should decide how to design the floor. If the bathtub stands on legs decorated with beautiful decorative overlays, the floor is tiled.

In the case where the bathtub on the side is hidden under a special screen, there is no need to cover the floor, because it will not be visible.

So, as you can see from the article, installing a bathtub yourself is a simple process that requires a minimal set of tools. With the help of the knowledge gained and the help of a partner, all the work can be done very quickly.

With proper and timely care, a cast iron bath will retain its properties, ensuring comfortable water procedures for a long time.

Almost every apartment contains a piece of furniture such as a bathtub. What could be more pleasant than soaking in warm water with foam? Therefore, everyone has faced the problem of purchasing and installing a new bathtub or replacing an old one. This is where the question arises: do it yourself or entrust it to professionals? In principle, installation is not difficult except the weight of the bathtub itself.

Below are brief instructions for those who are interested in installing a cast iron bathtub on tiles with their own hands. The whole procedure consists of several points - choosing a place, preparing it, the installation itself, connecting the drain fittings, and final diagnostics.

This issue must be approached very thoroughly, guided by the following recommendations:

Preparing the premises

Before installing a cast iron bathtub, you need to carry out a number of measures that will ensure the safety and comfort of using the product:


Tools and materials

During the installation process, you will need safety glasses, clothing and shoes, a hat, and gloves. For the preparatory stage - a hammer drill, a hammer, pliers, keys, screwdrivers. Directly for installation you will need bolts, nuts, drain fittings, a corner for masking the joint between the wall and the product, and legs.

Usually the bathtub already comes with supporting elements. However, if they do not fit or you need to replace the legs in an old product, you can purchase them separately.

Set of legs for cast iron bathtubs

The choice of supports is quite large - from standard Soviet ones to decorative ones. When choosing, everyone is guided by their own taste and price category. If the supports do not carry a decorative load, then it is better to choose universal legs for cast iron bathtubs. They fit almost all types of vessels and are designed to bear significant weight.

Installation

Conventionally, the installation process can be divided into several stages:

  1. Transporting the bath. After the place has been prepared, you need to move the bathtub itself into the room. This process is highlighted as a separate stage, because It has a pretty decent weight. It is recommended to carry it very carefully so as not to damage the doors, floor tiles and the product itself.
  2. Attaching the Adjustment Screws. Before installing the legs on the bathtub itself, it is recommended to first attach special adjusting screws with fixing nuts to them. They must be placed below the support. It is better to do this at this stage, because... attaching them while lying under the bathtub is quite problematic.
  3. Turning the bathtub.

    Turning the bathtub over to attach the legs

    Basically, all cast iron bathtubs are installed on special legs, which are included in the kit. But first they need to be screwed. Solving the question of how to install legs on a cast iron bathtub is not particularly difficult. It is enough to turn the product on its side and carefully place it on the floor. In this position, screwing the legs to the bathtub is quite simple.

  4. Attaching legs to the bathtub. Now directly installing the legs on the bathtub.

    The process of attaching legs to the bathtub

    To begin with, two supports are firmly fixed. Here there are several options - mounting on wedges and on coupling bolts. In the first case, the installation process is carried out in several stages. The wedges are driven in with periodic tapping from the middle of the bath and then to its edges. In the second case, everything is even simpler. The manufacturer provides special lugs at the bottom of the bathtub, to which the legs are attached and secured with a bolt and nut. Sometimes you can see small deposits of metal on the supports in the seats. This is a manufacturing defect that can be easily corrected by processing with a grinding machine. The reliability and safety of fastening depends on the tightness of the connection between the surface of the product and the support.

    Legs for bathtub

    The wedge-shaped parts to be joined may move apart when the bolts are tightened. This leads to gaps at the support points, which is extremely undesirable. Therefore, if you decide to screw on the legs for a cast iron bathtub with your own hands, pay special attention to the strength of the connection.

  5. Turning the bathtub back to its original position. Next, the bathtub is turned over and placed on its legs. Because Since there are only two supports attached at the moment, some kind of support needs to be provided to ensure stability. Its length should be at least 60 cm. Moreover, if the installation is carried out by a person without work experience, then it is better to add something else for insurance.
  6. Alignment by level. The next step is to install the remaining two legs and level the surface of the bathtub along a horizontal level 50 cm long.

    The bathtub needs to be leveled

    Due to the high rigidity of the cast iron bathtub, it is enough to manipulate from the end that is most noticeable due to its connection to the wall. The level is placed in the center of this side.

The manufacturer can equip the product with adjustable legs. In this case, the alignment process consists of screwing in and out the screws to the required length. At the end of the adjustment, the product must be exactly in place, the gap from the wall is allowed to be 1 mm. Then you just need to tighten the fixing nuts.

Adjustable legs for cast iron bathtub

A more difficult question is how to level a cast-iron bathtub with non-adjustable legs that are rigidly fixed to the bottom.

In this case, several methods are proposed - sawing or sharpening the legs, or placing special metal plates under them. The last method is easy to implement. However, the first two are more reliable and will not create additional inconvenience when cleaning under the bathroom.

You can file or sharpen the legs with a grinder, after first lifting the bathtub and placing it on a brick support. Then the level is checked and so on until the bathtub is perfectly positioned.

However, in some houses or apartments, the bathtub is installed on a floor with low or medium hardness, for example, wood. In this case, it may be pressed under the weight of the product. Therefore, the question arises of what to put under the legs of a cast iron bathtub.

Leveling a bathtub with non-adjustable legs

These can be metal inserts with a thickness of at least 5 mm and a diameter of about 50 mm. However, aluminum is not suitable in this case, because... it is quite soft.

After installing the bathtub, you need to waterproof it at the junction with the wall. If the tiles were laid completely over the entire wall, then you can put a plastic corner on an adhesive base, border tape, fillet or ceramic plinth. If the bathtub was installed against a concrete wall, then the tiles can be laid slightly overlapping on the side of the product.

Connecting drain fittings

After completing the installation work, you need to connect the drain fittings. Experts recommend purchasing a siphon with a metal grid rather than a plastic one. This is due to the fact that the latter are softer and can bend when tightening the screw. As a result, the sealing ring will not be pressed sufficiently, and water will leak in this place.

The standard bathtub is equipped with a drain at the bottom and an overflow to protect against excessive water accumulation. First of all, the lower part of the siphon is secured using rubber gaskets for sealing. The product is fixed by screwing the screw into the nut at the inlet of the plastic pipe.

Bath drain connection

The same manipulations are carried out to connect the overflow.

Then the outlet of the drain fittings is inserted into the sewer system and fixed. It is recommended to lubricate all joints with silicone sealant.

Final diagnostics and testing

If all of the above installation and connection manipulations have been carried out, then before final fixation of the product it is recommended to carry out a small diagnostic. To begin with, stand in the bathtub and walk around it. If it wobbles, creaks, legs move apart, the floor is pressed, etc., then something was done incorrectly. The supports must be able to withstand the load of the bathtub and the person in it. Therefore, you need to double-check everything again and fix the legs more firmly.

Bathtub with legs

It is also mandatory to check the drain by collecting a small amount of liquid into the vessel. If nothing is leaking, the drain opens and water drains. There should be no drops or leaks at the joints. If such malfunctions are detected, you need to check the correct assembly of the siphon elements and additionally treat the joints with silicone sealant.

In principle, installing a cast iron bathtub does not require special knowledge, skills and abilities, the main thing is to follow the instructions exactly.

Cast iron clawfoot bathtub against the wall Leveling the floor before installing the bathtub Laying tiles before installing the bathtub Set of legs for cast iron bathtubs Turning the bathtub over to attach the legs The process of attaching the legs to the bathtub The bathtub must be leveled Adjustable legs for a cast iron bathtub Leveling a bathtub with non-adjustable legs Connecting the bathtub drain Bathtub with legs Legs for a bathtub Red bathtub with legs Pink bathtub with legs in the interior of a bathroom Siphon for a bathtub

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 3 minutes

Taking a bath can never be compared to a regular shower, because it is an ideal way to feel relaxation after a busy day and even improve your health. Modern plumbing production offers an impressive selection of bathtubs, including quarry, artificial stone, and cast iron. But cast iron bathtubs remain timeless classics. Consider the question: how to install a cast iron bathtub.

The reason for the love for such material is not at all that someone is too lazy to exchange a Soviet bathtub for a modern one made from innovative materials. In fact, such a font is valuable because it optimally distributes heat, which also lasts for a long time. However, this element of plumbing has its own characteristics, which make its correct installation quite problematic. What are the specifics of this work?

Preparing for installation

Before starting installation, the key is to measure the dimensions of the bathtub and the dimensions of the room so that they match each other. All indicators to be measured can be seen in the figure below.

How to put a bath in correctly

The main problem with self-installation of a plumbing fixture is that cast iron products have a fairly large mass - from 100 kilograms or more, and therefore transportation and installation should be carried out by two people. This is exactly how many people are required to lift and carry a cast-iron bathtub, and three loaders will only interfere with each other when transporting the product.

If there is no elevator in the house, this device should be lifted to the desired floor with the drain holes in the direction opposite to the direction of movement. The product is brought into the bathroom in a vertical position for a more convenient location, because this is how it takes up minimal space in the room, freeing up room for movers to maneuver. It is better to cover the jamb and threshold during the process with soft material so as not to damage the new bathtub.

Advice: in order not to damage the walls of the bathroom itself during a skid, they also need to be protected; for this, tarpaulin, cardboard, rolled insulation material, etc. will do.

Finishing the room before installation

The key point before installation is proper preparation of the room for such a large item. Firstly, the bathroom must have a concrete screed, which is covered with thick ceramic tiles. If the strength of the floor is weak and it is impossible to strengthen or replace it, it is recommended to place steel plates under the legs, the minimum width of which is 5 cm, and the thickness is at least 0.5 centimeters.

Features of installing a cast iron bathtub with legs

First, you will need to turn off the water in the apartment and, in addition, open the taps and remove it from the system. After bringing the bath in, it is laid on its side, turning the bottom towards the wall, against which it will then be installed. The distance to the wall should be approximately 70 cm. Then they begin to mount the first pair of legs.

Tip: it is better to secure the screws for height adjustment on the bathtub supports before installation, while the nuts relative to the leg should be located on the floor side.

Installation of bath supports

The legs can be mounted in two ways:

  • Fastening with wedges. The supports are placed on special fastenings on the bottom and secured there by driving in the wedges included in the package. This should be done extremely painstakingly, without unnecessary effort. As a result, the bathtub supports must be fastened so that the elements are joined with maximum density and do not move under any physical influence.
  • Fastening with screws. The legs are fixed in the grooves with the supplied bolts. As with the first method, the main thing is not to over-tighten the bolts, otherwise you can damage the bath itself and break the threads. The only thing left after this is to place the device on brickwork. After fastening, the supports must be motionless.

Tip: To avoid excessive force when tightening bolts, it is permissible to use a torque wrench.

To secure the rear supports, the cast iron product is turned over, installing it in the way it should be when using it. Then, at one end, for example, a board with a length of 60 cm (or another object that acts as a stand) is placed on the floor, after which the edge of the bathtub without legs is placed on it. The main thing is that the lifting height allows for convenient installation of product supports.

It is highly advisable to be supported by another person during installation to avoid being pressed down by the cast iron “colossus”. The rear legs are installed in a manner identical to the front ones. If the floor in the room has a smooth surface, it is advisable to install spacers. It is better to pour polymer glue into them and under them. These measures are necessary to ensure that the bath is securely fixed in one place.

Tilt of the bathtub and its fixation against the wall

When tilting a cast iron bathtub, keep in mind that the manufacturer has already provided the necessary slope towards the drain. All you need to do is adjust the sides of the product horizontally using a level. The level should be taken as long as possible so that the measurements are more accurate. The adjustment must be done very carefully, since the legs attached to the wedges can change their position. The rigidity of a cast iron bathtub means that the position is adjusted only on those sides that are adjacent to the walls.

The distance from the wall to the bathtub during installation must be at least 1 mm. After final installation, it can be completely moved towards the wall by tapping on the supports adjacent to these walls. After this, the existing cracks are sealed with a special sealant. Moreover, it is advisable to buy a special sealant for additional fixation of the bathtub to the wall and a separate silicone sealant to seal the seams on top. If the walls are curved and the gap between them and the bathtub is very large, you can seal it with a special baseboard, also covered with a layer of silicone-based sealant.

Tip: the bathtub should be at a distance of at least 4-5 cm from the bottom row of tiles to make it easier to remove when dismantling.

Connection to sewerage

At the final stage, connect the bath to. It is best to use plastic components for this, since they are easy to use and the most practical. They can be purchased separately, although sometimes they are included in the package. The lower drain hole is connected to the siphon, and the upper one is connected to the overflow drain, which also leads to the siphon. Using pipes, the siphon pipe is connected to the sewer drain. All communications are connected to the bath using rubber gaskets. Such a cast iron product must be grounded, and this work should be entrusted to qualified electricians.

Washing in the bath is a pleasure that can’t be compared with anything else. Not a single shower stall will give you a feeling of relaxation, complete comfort and peace of mind. But a bath is different from a bath. And if you prefer to use a good-quality cast iron hot tub, it’s time to get to know what installing a cast iron bathtub is.

Cast iron bath: a little more detail

Among all types of bathtubs made with the latest technological innovations, preference is still given to cast iron bathtubs. There are several reasons for this:

  • the ability to warm up evenly and retain heat for a long time;
  • high performance;
  • long service life;
  • coating strength.

With all the advantages, cast iron bathtubs have some disadvantages that need to be taken into account when preparing the installation of a cast iron bathtub:

  1. Bowl weight. Remember, a cast iron bathtub has a large mass, and as it is filled with water, the weight increases. Therefore, the floors of the house where you will install a cast-iron bathtub yourself must be extremely durable.
  2. Fragility. The material of the cuvette is durable, but at the same time quite fragile.

Important! To correctly install a cast iron bathtub, it is necessary to take measurements in advance of the room in which the installation is to be carried out. This is done so that the bathtub fits through the door and is conveniently placed for assembly and subsequent installation.

Installing a cast iron bathtub

If your cast iron bathtub breaks and you want a cast iron hot tub, it's important to know how to secure, trim, and install a cast iron bathtub. The main problem you will have to face is weight. Therefore, all work (transportation, transfer, installation) must be done in pairs. It’s not worth the risk alone, but three people when carrying the product will only interfere with each other.

Important! Lifting the bathtub to the floor (without an elevator) must be done so that the drainage holes are directed in the direction opposite to the movement. The bowl is brought into the room vertically. This is a safety requirement, and in addition, the font takes up less space, freeing up space for loaders to maneuver. And in order not to damage the bowl when moving, it is worth tightening the threshold and entrance group with a soft cloth.

To install a cast iron bathtub yourself without any problems, the bathtub must meet all the requirements for installing a massive object. Preparing the floor is the first priority. A concrete screed on top of which tiles are laid is the best option. But the tile must meet the required strength standards. If installing a cast-iron bathtub on tiles is undesirable, then special steel plates 0.5-5 cm thick are placed under the font supports.

Important! Installation of cast iron bathtubs in the case of weak ceilings is possible, but in this case it is necessary to select a compact-sized bathtub.

Finishing bathroom walls before installation

The facing work of wall panels, before installing a cast-iron bathtub, deserves special attention due to the mass of the ditch and the difficulty of moving the latter. Finishing can be done in the following ways:

  1. Conventional tile laying throughout the entire area. Finishing is done before the installation of the font. This option is suitable when a major renovation of the premises is being carried out.
  2. Cladding the wall above the bathtub is an option that allows you to “recess” the edges of the bowl into the wall, reducing the gap between the side of the bathtub and the wall panel, where water will no longer flow. Finishing is done only after the cast iron bathtub has been properly installed. Finishing should be done by covering the bowl with film to protect it from tile adhesive.

Advice! The disadvantage of the second finishing option is that it is difficult to find tiles in the same color as the old one when the cladding is partially replaced, and the overall style of the room may be disrupted.

DIY cast iron bathtub installation

Before properly installing a cast-iron bathtub, moisture-proof the room so that water spilled on the floor does not cause trouble for the neighbors below.

Advice! If you are not satisfied with installing a cast iron bathtub yourself, you can order a service from a specialized company, but before that it is better to find out the cost of the work. Professionals will do the procedure quickly, cleanly and without any problems.

Installation equipment you will need:

  • bath bowl;
  • set of supports and fastenings;
  • adjusting bolts;
  • level for measuring evenness;
  • hammer;
  • wrench;
  • rubberized gaskets;
  • siphon;
  • plastic pipe;
  • border tape, ceramic plinth, silicone gel - for filling the gap.

Important! Many users do not know how to drill a cast iron bathtub. Professionals advise punching the hole, and only then drilling it with a metal drill. The fact is that cast iron can have tiny air gaps and when drilling, the drill begins to “walk” from side to side. In this case, drilling a cast iron bathtub causes problems, and the hole may turn out to be uneven and larger than required.

Installation of the font

Not every bowl has the dimensions needed for a bathroom, so sometimes you have to cut the edges and then the question arises, is it possible to saw off a cast-iron bathtub? Can! How to cut the edge of a cast iron bathtub:

  1. put a sawing disc on the grinder and saw off the edge;
  2. replace the cutting disc with coarse sanding and sand the rough edge;
  3. replace the coarse disc with fine sandpaper and go around the edges again.

The procedure is long, but this way the edges of the bath will be smooth and even.

The next stage is to turn off the sewerage and water supply systems. When removing old accessories, do not forget to drain the water from the pipes by opening the taps. Now you can start installation!

Installation of a cast iron bathtub:

  1. As soon as the bathtub bowl is brought into the room, you need to place the font on its side, turning the bottom towards the wall panel, to which it will then be placed. The distance from the wall to the bottom of the bowl should not be less than 50 cm and no more than 70 cm.
  2. Now you can install the supports. The cast iron bathtub mount has special holes for the legs. Height adjusting screws must be screwed to the supports before installation, with the nut positioned relative to the leg on the floor side.

Advice! Installation of supports can be done using wedges included in the kit. The procedure should be performed extremely carefully, without applying excessive force (the cast iron can be destroyed). The second mounting option is screw. Everything is simple here: the supports are attached using bolts supplied in the kit. It is necessary to do the procedure carefully, while not forgetting about the washers that prevent the bolt from turning.

  1. If the supports break, do not worry: in this case, installing a cast-iron bathtub on bricks is recommended. A certain red brick masonry is created and the bowl has a stronger support. By the way, a cast-iron bathtub on bricks (pillow) is a good option for distributing the mass if the floors of the house are not strong enough.

Advice! Using a brick border or simply placing bricks under the supports, you can solve the problem of how to raise a cast-iron bathtub higher. Of course, higher legs are also suitable, but is it worth relying on the strength of metal supports if we are talking about a massive cast iron cuvette?

  1. After attaching the supports, the bowl must be turned over to the position in which it will be used. If the floor is slippery, it is better to place additional pads (for example, pipe plugs) under the supports. It is good to glue the gaskets with polymer glue or sealant. This way the bath will stand more stable and will not “move” when taking procedures or when leaving the bowl.
  2. Correct installation of a cast iron bathtub requires adjustments after installation. But remember, no additional bias is made towards the drain! Manufacturers of absolutely all cast iron bathtubs provide for this nuance at the low tide stage. It is quite enough to level the sides in a horizontal plane, which is why you need a level.

Important! When adjusting the font level you need to be extremely careful! The wedge fastenings of the supports do not tolerate any shifts and can move. The rigidity of the bowl allows adjustment of only one side and the end adjacent to the wall panels. The gap between the sides and the wall should not be less than 1 mm! But after adjusting the evenness of the sides, but before attaching the cast-iron bathtub, the bowl is finally moved towards the walls, lightly tapping the legs.

  1. The next stage is connecting the bowl to the water supply and sewerage systems. It is best to do this using plastic pipes that come with the bathtub or can be purchased separately. If you need to drill a hole in a cast iron bathtub (or enlarge it), then it is better to use a core and metal drills. The operating procedure for connecting the bowl is as follows:
    • the lower drain hole is equipped with a siphon (here there is no need to drill a cast-iron bathtub, the diameter of the siphon is selected according to the bowl format);
    • the upper hole in the bowl is hermetically connected to the drain/overflow;
    • the siphon pipe is connected to the sewerage system.

Advice! It is best to carry out plumbing work using rubber gaskets. These components will provide greater sealing.

In addition to knowing how to install a cast iron bathtub, you need to understand the “grounding” of the bowl. Professional electricians can best handle the work; it is safer to contact them. And after the work, you just need to check the tightness of all connections. Blotting paper, toilet paper or regular newspaper are used as an indicator. Wipe the floor dry, fill the bath with water, flush it and track the appearance of drops on the paper. Everything is dry, which means that every hole in the cast iron bath and joints is sealed perfectly and no problems are expected.

Advice! Don't forget that drilling holes in a cast iron bathtub requires caution! Any wrong movement may damage the integrity of the cast iron and the bowl will have to be restored.

If you still have questions and it is not clear how to cut the edge of a cast-iron bathtub, install the font on bricks or on supports to the wall, you should watch the video below. A professional master will tell you all the details, and you will cope with the installation without any problems!

Advice! The seam between the bathtub and the wall is sealed with sealant, baseboard or silicone-based gel.

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