Caring for garden crops includes pest control measures. Even crop rotation does not help in cramped conditions. Thus, pests of cruciferous plants simultaneously harm goosefoot plants. Insects that have developed on fruit bushes colonize beet leaves if treatment is not carried out in time. Every gardener needs to know beet pests and measures to combat them.
Preventive actions
Before sowing beets, the soil is prepared. If there are rodents or moles and mole crickets on the site, they are a threat to any greenery. Therefore, all control measures are aimed at removing uninvited guests from the site. It is best if the expulsion occurs before sowing the seeds. For this purpose, traps and excavation of holes, poisoned baits, and flooding of passages made by moles and mole crickets are used.
If voles live on the plot, then the question of who is gnawing on the beets in the garden bed is decided unambiguously. You need to get a cat, and the mice will go away.
In addition, there are enough hunters to feast on young sweet tops and roots. But if the area has been cleared of plant debris since the fall, and there are no reserves that mice could feed on in the winter, then there is more guarantee that the rodents have not taken up residence. The number of other pests in the soil can be reduced by:
- deep digging of the soil in autumn and spring;
- laid out traps and baits for mole crickets and wireworms;
- sprinkling beet holes and seedlings with ashes, tobacco dust, and repellents;
- keeping the beet bed clean of weeds and the surface layer of soil moist.
Digging the soil destroys pest passages. At the same time, the wireworms are collected. It is especially good to dig in the fall before frost in order to destroy pests in the upper fertile layer.
Ash is a fertilizer for beets at all stages of their growth, but it will not allow flea beetles and slugs into the garden bed. Weeds are breeding grounds for the primary development of insects, which then move to cultivated plants.
Beet pests and their control
In order to fight you need to know the enemy by sight. Of the numerous insects and diseases, the most harmful and widespread ones can be identified. Photos of the disease and beet pest will help identify the disease.
Beetles
From the very beginning of the development of young plants, damage is caused by adult beetles that eat leaves and the growing point. The beetle is dark green, with a pearlescent sheen. It is small, about two millimeters, and its larvae are equally small. You can fight it with the help of ash powders and Inta-vir.
A dangerous pest is the mole cricket or earthen crayfish. This is a beetle 50 mm long. It lives in the ground and winters in deep, non-freezing layers. The mole cricket makes nests and lays eggs. The larvae cause no less harm by gnawing the roots of plants. The fact that this pest has appeared in the garden can be judged by the path of wilted plants and burrows in the ground.
Nematode
Another secretive pest is the nematode, a worm that lives in the ground and causes great harm by eating roots and laying cysts on root crops. When the nematode spreads, the plant lags in growth and dies. You can fight this pest with the help of autumn sowing of green manure - mustard, rapeseed. In this case, the nematodes crawl to the plants, which are then mowed down and the ground is deeply plowed. This way most of the pest is destroyed.
One of the most common pests. If the beet leaves dry out, you need to carefully look at the inside; the larvae are transparent and look like caterpillars. You can get rid of the pest by picking leaves with pests and treating the planting with an insecticide. The earth needs to be loosened and spilled with an ash solution. The fly lives on weeds and moves to cultivated plants.
The insect causes considerable damage to plants. Small, only 3-5 mm, the bug eats five times its weight per day. It multiplies quickly and leaves infected with the bug become bubbly. If you do not fight the pest, the plant will die. And again, the root cause of the spread of the insect is the one on which it is bred.
A small brown butterfly fluttering among plants does not cause concern among summer residents. But this is a malicious pest, the leaf miner. She lays eggs on cuttings of beet leaves, and young caterpillars penetrate deep into the fruit and gnaw passages in it. This pest damages all types of beets. She dies. If leafminer moths appear, then after harvesting you need to remove the tops and treat the ground with an insecticide.
Phoma and cercospora blight of root crops
Beet diseases are of infectious and physiological origin. Physiological changes include changes in the plant due to a lack of nutrients or their imbalance. Phoma of roots and leaves can become such a disease if there is a lack of boron in the soil. This results in hollowness of root crops.
The first signs of phomosis will be a change in the leaf blade. It consists of lightened spots with dark dots in the middle.
Cercospora blight of beet leaves begins to develop with high air humidity or prolonged rain.
In addition, beets are affected by various rots, powdery mildew and beet root rot. All of them arise from improper care of plants.
Video about the beet pest - nematode
All those who like to work on the land in their summer cottages or in their gardens know that any vegetable or fruit grown with their own hands is always tastier than store-bought. It is difficult to say what is the reason for this phenomenon. Maybe the plants are trying to thank a person for the care with which he treats every bush or tree. And only fruits can be a sign of gratitude, which is why they are so tasty and fragrant. But in order to get a rich harvest, you need to diligently control pests in gardens and vegetable gardens. One of these lovers of feeding on the juice of tender seedlings and young shoots is. Detailed instructions on how to fight aphids on beets will help you preserve your harvest and enjoy healthy root crops.
general characteristics
The insect is one of the most common and dangerous pests of gardens and vegetable gardens. Aphids have small sizes from 1 to 5 mm, a soft, oval, ovoid body of green, orange, yellow or black color, thin legs, and an elongated proboscis, which sucks juice from plants.
The fertilized female lays eggs in secluded corners. Usually this is the root part of trees. Wintering of eggs occurs safely under the bark in hard-to-reach places. As soon as the external temperature becomes comfortable, wingless females quickly begin to develop from the eggs, which are capable of producing offspring without fertilization. The damage caused by aphids is enormous. She multiplies very quickly. A wingless female can reproduce about fifty generations during the spring-summer season. Aphids are not too picky about what they eat. The pest eats everything in its path: young shoots, seedlings, flowers, vegetables, fruit trees and shrubs, weeds. The feast is attended by young and adult individuals, which can be distinguished only by body size.
Interesting!
Aphids live in colonies. It becomes difficult for such a large number of insects to feed in one place, so by the end of May, subject to warm weather, or by the end of June, flying females are born. They expand the geography of the species. Scattering over vast distances with the help of the wind, they mate with winged males and lay eggs for the winter several tens of kilometers from their original habitat, so that a new life cycle of insects repeats in the spring.
Pest classification
There are different types of aphids that differ from each other not only in size, but also in taste preferences. Gardeners identify pink, apple, cherry, cabbage, beet and other varieties of aphids. Such names speak only of the preferred, but not the only food for these pests. Beet aphids can be found on cabbage. White aphids attack both trees and shrubs, eating onion, vegetable and fruit crops.
Any type of aphid is dangerous because, when sucking juices, it secretes a sticky substance - honeydew, which interferes with plant photosynthesis. Mushrooms may appear on the honeydew, leading to its deformation. Honeydew attracts black garden ants, which love to feast on the sweet substance, so they protect and spread aphids everywhere as one of their food sources. Hordes of ants and aphids besieging young plants can lead to distortion, weakening, slow growth, disease and even complete death of shoots, and ultimately to the absence of a harvest.
Beetroot is one of the popular vegetables in our diet. We all love red borscht, vinaigrette, and healthy salads made from this easy-to-grow vegetable. To get your favorite product of good quality from your garden, you need to carefully monitor the condition of developing plants.
When tender leaves appear, they can be attacked by beet aphids. She loves to feed on the juice of young shoots of sugar beets. If appropriate measures are not taken in time to combat this pest, then aphids on beet leaves can leave the amateur gardener without a harvest.
The following alarming symptoms can serve as confirmation that black aphids have appeared on beets:
- leaves begin to curl and dry out;
- sticky liquid appears on the surface of the leaves;
- on the inside of the leaf there are orders of insects and their eggs;
- The development of the plant and fruit slows down.
If at least one symptom appears, it is necessary to immediately determine measures to combat this scourge.
Interesting!
Numerous colonies that colonize the leaves cause them to turn yellow, become deformed and fall off. Small black bugs are visible on their reverse side.
Ways to solve the problem
Fighting aphids is a painstaking task. Pests multiply instantly, so you need to remove aphids quickly. There are several methods:
- mechanical;
Which method is better to choose is decided in each specific case by the gardener himself.
Mechanical
The most labor-intensive, but also the safest for plants and humans. You need to remove aphids and laid eggs with your hands, removing them from each leaf into a small container. If the number of insects on the surface is large enough, then it is better to carefully tear off a leaf of the plant to free it from pests. You can wash off the aphids with a strong stream of water from a hose or plant plants such as garlic, onions, and Dalmatian chamomile next to the beet bed, which will repel insects with their smell.
Folk remedies
Chemical insecticides for insect control
To ensure that you get rid of the problem, various chemical agents for aphids on beets have been developed that effectively fight aphids and are divided into the following types:
- contact - Karbafos and Fufanon penetrate the skin, causing the death of the insect;
- intestinal - Akarin and Bankol enter with food, causing paralysis and death;
- general action - Biotlin, pass through the membranes of plant cells and remain in it for up to a month, turning the juice of the leaves into a deadly poison for aphids, and are not washed off by rain.
You should know that beets are sprayed for the last time 20 days before harvest. Insecticides should be applied in calm weather.
How to treat beets against aphids should be decided by everyone, depending on the situation. We must not forget that insecticides can get into vegetables and fruits, and then they will turn into a threat to human health. It is impossible to treat with chemical systemic substances during the ovary and active ripening of fruits.
Beets are an unpretentious crop; with minimal care they can produce a good harvest. But pests such as cause significant damage to the crop. The plant weakens, is susceptible to disease, and growth stops. Aphids completely destroy young seedlings. How to deal with aphids on beets is a question every gardener has to solve.
Fighting methods
Offers a wide selection of quality products. You can get rid of aphids on beets in one treatment. Active substances are absorbed by plant tissues, creating protection for 20 days or more.
The basic rule is that beets should be sprayed for the last time 20 days before harvest.
Beet aphids appear in early April, but mass reproduction can occur during any period of the crop's growing season. When the root crop is already formed, it is more advisable to use biological products. The products act due to the waste products of microorganisms. The aphids are poisoned gradually, causing asphyxia. The vegetable can be eaten 5 days after spraying.
Folk remedies for aphids on beets are used at any stage of crop growth. They are prepared on the basis of substances with a pungent odor, soap, and herbal infusions. The frequency of use is unlimited. Efficiency depends on weather conditions and the degree of beet infestation.
Agrotechnical control measures, which are also preventive, include observing crop rotation, deep digging of the soil after harvesting, before planting seeds, and changing the location of the beds.
Signs of defeat
Aphids on beet leaves settle in the lower part of the plate, on the stems. Hides from direct sunlight. Heavy rains and cold weather can stop the proliferation of pests. In other cases, beet aphids reproduce at a rapid pace - up to 20 generations per season.
Wingless black aphids are present on beets until the end of July. Then winged individuals are born, capable of migrating to different garden crops. After the mating season, eggs are laid on trees, bushes, and weeds. In the spring they return to the beds with beets.
On a note!
Aphids form numerous colonies on beet leaves. All individuals feed on plant juices. As a result, the sheets curl, become deformed, turn yellow, and fall off. On the reverse side, upon careful examination, small black bugs no larger than 3 mm in size are visible.
Preparations for pests
There are no particular difficulties with how to treat beets against aphids. You can use any systemic insecticide. Poisonous preparations help remove aphids instantly and protect against insect invasion for another 30 days.
Treatment of beets with insecticides is carried out in dry, windless weather. While working, you should use rubber gloves and a protective suit to prevent the solution from getting on your skin.
When choosing an effective aphid repellent, you should pay attention to the following drugs:
- Actellik;
- Calypso;
- Marshall;
- Commander.
Biological drugs do not act as quickly. You have to wait several days for the effect; they are removed from beets within 14 days. The treatment should be carried out several times during the fight at intervals of 14 days, then for prevention every month - 1 time.
Remedies for aphids on beets based on biologically active components:
- Arrow;
- Spark bio;
- Inta-Vir;
- Jaguar;
- Envidor.
Spraying the green part of the beets is carried out using a garden sprayer, a spray bottle, or a watering can with a wide tip.
Folk remedies
You can remove aphids from a beet bed using safe folk remedies:
- Dilute 200 g of pre-grated grated mixture in 1 liter of water, add 9 liters of water;
- mix, 100 g of soap, stir thoroughly. Instead of ash, shag is used, the dry ingredients are scattered between the rows on the beet bed;
- pour onion skins with water, boil for 20 minutes, leave for 24 hours, strain, add laundry soap.
The fight against aphids with folk remedies is carried out at any stage of the beet growing season. Before eating the vegetable, just wash it under running water and peel the skin.
Table beets are an extremely resilient crop, but they can suffer significantly from aphid infestations. You should take care of the cleanliness of the land in advance.
Table beets can also be affected by diseases and pests. Symptoms of possible beet diseases and measures to combat them. Signs and measures to control beet pests.
Beet diseases and pests: signs of the most harmful and common ones , measures to combat them
Like any other crops, beets can also hit diseases and pests. Moreover, some of them are capable of not only reducing yields, but also destroying quite healthy-looking vegetable roots stored for storage. In order to fight you need to know the enemy by sight. Of the many beet pests and diseases The most harmful and widespread ones can be identified.
Symptoms of possible beet diseasesand measures to combat them
The most common are mushrooms Beet diseases:
- root beetle,
- fomoz,
- downy mildew
- and cercospora blight.
The root beetle affects only beet seedlings; other diseases affect root crops and seed plants.
Beet root eater
The most active causative agent of beet rootworm is Pythium debarianum. It affects only young plants during the period from seed germination to the formation of the second pair of true leaves, after which the plants are already resistant to the pathogen.
Beet root eater affects seedlings and seedlings of beets.
This manifests itself in browning and rotting of the roots and root collar. In affected seedlings, the stem turns black and thins, the plants die, and the affected seedlings die. The disease develops most often on heavy, floating soils, first of all appearing in low places.
With strong spread illnesses crops beets are being thinned out. Improper tillage leading to crust formation, lack of aeration, and increased soil acidity contribute to the development of root beetle. The infection can be transmitted by seeds, persists in the soil, and accumulates on plant debris.
The Bordeaux 237 variety is relatively resistant to this disease.
Measures to combat the root beetle:
- In autumn, liming of acidic soils is carried out.
- On sandy loam soils, 0.2-0.4 kg/m2 of ground limestone is added, and on loamy soils 0.3-0.6 kg/m2. Doses of freshly slaked lime should be halved. Before sowing, it is advisable to add boron to the soil (3 g of borax per 1 sq.m.), preferably in solution.
- Use only treated seeds, for example, with TMTD.
- Maintain crop rotation.
- The sown rows of beet seeds are mulched with a small layer of humus or peat.
- Thin out seedlings in a timely manner and remove weeds.
- The soil is loosened after each watering and rain, ensuring air access to the roots.
- After harvesting, all plant debris must be removed from the site.
Fomoz
Fomoz, or heart rot of beets. The causative agent is Phoma betae Frank (Pleospora betae), belonging to the class of imperfect
Fomoz, or core rot, affects first-year beets and seeds, both above-ground parts of plants and root crops. Light brown round spots with black dots appear on the leaves - sporulation of the fungus. The disease most often begins with the lower aging leaves.
On the petioles of leaves and stems of the testes, the affected areas become lighter and black dots are also visible on them. Infection from the petioles penetrates into the root crop. On root crops, the disease develops in the form of dry rot.
The affected internal parts of the root crop acquire an intense black color. On the cut, the affected tissue is black, juicy, and hard. During storage, voids may form in it, sometimes lined with white mycelium.
Core rot develops and is detected mainly during winter storage. Planting affected root crops leads to prolapse of the testes. The causative agent of the disease can also develop on seed balls. The source of infection is diseased seeds, roots and post-harvest residues.
Bordeaux 237 and Odnorostkovaya varieties are relatively resistant to fomoz.
In this case, plant growth and development slow down, young leaves and the growing point die off. Later, the disease spreads to the internal parts of the root crop and manifests itself in the form of black rot during storage.
Heart rot is more common in alkaline soils. The disease becomes noticeable in the second half of the growing season, especially in dry, hot weather.
Measures to combat beet blight:
- Alternation of crops and compliance with agrotechnical measures, the same as in the case of root beetles.
- If boron fertilizers were not applied when preparing the soil, then before sowing the seeds can be soaked for 10-12 hours in a 1% solution (1 g per 100 ml of water) of boric acid or during the growing season, a month and a half before harvesting, sprinkle the plants with boric acid (10 g per 10 liters of water).
- To obtain seeds, plant only healthy root crops.
- It is especially convenient to check the quality of root crops by planting them in halves.
Beet disease downy mildew or downy mildew. During this disease, leaves curl, thicken, and yellow spots appear on the leaves.
Downy mildew (peronospora) affects many vegetable crops, for example, cucumbers and onions. In beets, downy mildew affects both the plants of the first year of planting and the seed plants.
The disease manifests itself mainly on young leaves and tips of flowering shoots of beets. Diseased leaves turn pale, curl their edges down, thicken, and become brittle. A grayish-purple coating forms on the underside of the leaves, consisting of sporulation of the fungus.
Subsequently, the leaves turn black and die.
On the testes, at the beginning of the growing season, the youngest leaves are affected, and then the tops of flowering shoots, flowers, and seed balls. Flowering shoots develop weakly, bend, lag in growth and then die.
The disease significantly contributes to the rotting of root crops during storage.
The disease progresses in humid, damp weather.
The disease first appears in the area with the testes, and from them it spreads to the first year beets.
The causative agent of the disease persists in seeds, uterine roots, and post-harvest residues.
Measures to combat downy mildew (peronosporosis) on beets:
- Grow healthy mother roots.
- Remove diseased seed plants, then treat the remaining ones with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Beet cercospora is a leaf spot caused by a pathogenic fungus.
Cercospora blight (leaf spot) affects the leaves, petioles of beets, and on seed plants, in addition, the stems and pericarp of the seed glomeruli.
Numerous small (2-3 mm in diameter) rounded light spots with a red-brown border appear on the leaves.
In humid, warm weather or after heavy dew, a grayish-white coating forms on the spots, mainly on the lower side - sporulation of the pathogen. On older leaves, the spots may be large, with an indistinct, blurry border. When the leaves are severely damaged, they turn black and die.
Dieback begins with the largest peripheral leaves. Young leaves are usually not affected. Elongated, slightly depressed spots form on the petioles and stems.
The most favorable conditions for cercospora blight are created with high soil moisture and an air temperature of 15-20°.
The disease is more pronounced in the second half of summer.
The main source of infection is plant debris, but there may also be weeds - quinoa, acorn grass, which are also affected by cercospora.
The following beet varieties are relatively resistant to cercospora: Bravo, Sibirskaya Ploskaya 167/367, Kubanskaya Borschevaya 43.
Measures to combat beet cercospora:
- Obligatory adherence to crop rotation, removal of weeds affected by Cercospora blight.
- A good harvest and healthy roots are obtained when beets are grown on fertile, light soils. Heavy clay soils need to be limed and filled with organic fertilizers in the fall. Sow beet seeds in loose, finely lumpy soil.
- Seed treatment Agatom-25.
- Pre-wetting the seeds speeds up the emergence of seedlings. Fast and friendly seedlings escape the defeat of the root beetle.
- Weekly spraying with copper-containing preparations. Can be used HOM, Fundazol, Copper oxychloride, Carbendazim, Propiconazole.
- Harvest beets before frost, as frozen root crops are poorly stored and most of them rot in winter.
- The most favorable temperature for storing beets is + 1°C.
- In all cases, a high culture of gardening is the basis for the prevention of any disease.
Beet rot
Rogue rot is a disease that occurs in places where sugar beets accumulate during storage (in piles, trenches, storage facilities)
Diseases develop during winter storage and are caused by fungi and bacteria. Mold of different colors, wet or dry rot are observed on root crops. The manifestation of the disease depends on the type and nature of the microorganism and storage conditions.
Affected fruits should not be used for food or fed to livestock.
Measures to combat beet rot:
- During the growing season, control pests;
- Provide optimal soil moisture and balanced mineral fertilizers;
- Try to minimize trauma to root crops during harvesting and storage.
The most dangerous pests of beet seedlings include beet flea beetles and beet weevils. Throughout the summer, beet leaves are heavily damaged by caterpillars of the cutworm (cabbage cutworm, gamma cutworm), meadow moth, beet bug, beet bug, aphids, beet fly larvae and beet leaf miner. Beet roots are damaged by beet weevil larvae, cutworm caterpillars, and root aphids.
Beet flea beetles
Beet flea beetles are among the most dangerous pests of beet seedlings.
Beet seedlings are damaged mainly by two types of flea beetles: common beet flea beetle and southern beet flea beetle. The beetles of both species are similar. Flea beetles appear early in spring, first on weeds from the Chenopodiaceae and Buckwheat families, then they move on to beets.
Beetles damage leaves by gnawing out the pulp and leaving the lower skin intact, resulting in the formation of “windows” and then small holes. Damaged seedlings may die. Female beetles lay eggs on the ground near plants. The eggs are light yellow, oval.
The egg stage lasts two to three weeks. The larvae emerging from the eggs are white. The new generation of beetles first feed on plants, and then go to winter under plant debris, in the top layer of soil.
Measures to combat beet flea beetles:
- These are all agrotechnical measures that give quick and friendly shoots (early sowing, fertilizing, proper tillage).
- Destruction of weeds from the Chenopodiaceae and Buckwheat families (quinoa, various types of buckwheat, etc.), which provide additional food for beetles in the spring.
- Before sowing, beet seeds are treated with 60% fentiuram at the rate of 4-6 kg per 1 ton.
- When beetles appear en masse, crops are sprayed with 25%
- Spraying is repeated after 7-10 days.
- Individual gardens are sprayed with the same infusions that are recommended against cruciferous flea beetles.
Beet aphid
Beet leaf aphid is a very serious pest of sugar beets and their seeds.
Beet aphid, also known as the bean aphid or euonymus aphid.
Among vegetable crops, it damages beets, beans, spinach, and less often carrots and potatoes. Distributed everywhere, it is especially numerous in Ukraine, the Krasnodar Territory, and Altai.
Beet aphids reproduce parthenogenetically (viviparous aphid) and sexually.
Parthenogenetic females (winged and wingless) are black, shiny and matte. Reproductive females are black or green, much smaller than parthenogenetic females. Sexual females lay black shiny eggs in autumn on euonymus, viburnum or jasmine.
In the spring, larvae hatch from overwintered eggs, from which wingless viviparous females hatch. The larvae develop quickly and begin to give birth to young. Aphids reproduce very quickly; the development of one generation in summer occurs in 9-14 days.
During the summer, aphids produce 12-15 generations. Two or four generations of aphids develop in spring on the undersides of euonymus, viburnum or jasmine leaves. When the leaves of the bushes become coarse, it flies to the beets.
Aphids live on the underside of beet leaves, on the seeds - on the stems and inflorescences. Due to aphid damage, the leaves curl, the plants are stunted and, as a result, the weight of the roots decreases. The seed yield on the seed plants is reduced.
Measures to combat beet aphids:
To destroy aphids, beet crops and seeds are sprayed with:
- 25% k.e. aitio,
- 50% k.e. karbofos,
- 50%-poi k.e. metathion or 40% k.e. phosphamide.
Solution consumption when spraying is 800-1000 l/ha.
Beet fly
Beet fly – Pegomyia hyoscyami. This is one of the most common pests of beets.
Beet fly affects both crops and beet seeds.
It causes great damage to the crops of this crop in the central Non-Black Earth zone, in the Urals in Belarus, the Baltic states, Western Siberia and the Far East.
The newly hatched larva is almost transparent and legless.
The false cocoon is brown, shiny, oval in shape.
In the middle or end of July, flies of the second generation appear; larvae of the second generation damage beet plants in July - August.
In September, the third generation of larvae emerge.
In total, two or three generations develop in the middle zone over the summer.
Measures to combat beet fly:
- One of the main measures to combat beet fly is the destruction of weeds on which the fly develops.
- When weeding crops, you should also remove the affected leaves.
- In autumn it is necessary to carry out deep fall plowing.
During the period of hatching of the larvae, when the first mines appear, the crops and beet seeds should be sprayed:
- 25% k.e. antio,
- 50% k.e. karbofos,
- 50% k.e. metathion or 40% k.e. phosphamide.
Liquid consumption is 600 l per 1 ha. Carry out at least two treatments in June and one or two treatments in July and August.
Beet beetleaf
Beet beetleaf – Cassida nebulosa L. (order Coleoptera, family Chrysomelidae). The insect develops on sugar and table beets.
Beet beetleaf found almost everywhere in Russia.
Beetles with shield-shaped elytra and pronotum are brownish-brown in color, 6-7 mm long.
Female beetles lay eggs in small clusters on the leaves of quinoa and gooseberry.
The larvae are flat, greenish, with long spines and bristles on the sides.
The larvae live for 12-14 days, then pupate here on the leaves.
Larvae and beetles eat away the pulp of the leaves, and severely damaged plants die.
During the growing season, two generations of pests develop. P
The first generation of beetles appears in June, the second in August.
Measures to combat beet bug:
- Control measures consist of destroying weeds in beet crops and spraying with the same preparations that are used against beet flea beetle.
Beet bug
Beet bug – Poeciloscytus cognatus Fieb. (order Hemiptera, family Miridae). Damages beets, alfalfa, soybeans, sunflower peas, poppy and other plants.
Beet bug distributed everywhere, but is especially harmful in the Krasnodar, Stavropol and Altai territories.
The bug overwinters in the egg or adult insect stage on various weeds (quinoa, sow thistle, plantain). At the end of April, bedbugs emerge from their wintering grounds.
Soon the females begin laying eggs. They lay eggs in the tissue of the stems, placing them in groups of 5-8 pieces. The eggs are shiny, orange-yellow in color.
At the end of May - beginning of June, bedbugs emerge from overwintered eggs.
Bugs and larvae suck the juice from the leaves, the leaves wrinkle and wither, the plants grow slower and often die.
The tips of the shoots on the testes become bent and dry out, causing the seed yield to decrease.
Measures to combat the beet bug:
- To reduce the damage to plants by bedbugs, you need to destroy weeds in and around the plantings, since bedbugs lay eggs on them in the fall.
Bugs and larvae are destroyed by spraying beet plants with the following preparations:
- 25% k.e. antio,
- 50% k.e. karbofos,
- 50% k.e. metathion or 40% k.e. phosphamide.
Beet leaf miner
The beet leaf miner has a light brown color, with a dull yellow pattern on the wings, the hind wings are decorated with fringe.
Butterflies appear in the spring.
The eggs are pearly white, oblong, about 0.3 mm long.
The egg develops from 4 to 7 days.
The caterpillars are gray-green in color, 10-12 mm long.
The hatched caterpillars feed on unexpanded leaves and bore tunnels in the petioles.
Such damage can cause leaf dieback and plant death.
As the drought intensifies, the caterpillars bore into the roots and bore tunnels into them.
Caterpillars pupate in the soil in a cobweb cocoon. The pupa is light brown in color, 5-6 mm long.
The development of the pupa takes one to two weeks.
The beet moth produces four to five generations during the growing season.
Measures to combat beet leaf miner:
- Careful harvesting of the crop, as well as cut tops, on which the caterpillars can complete their development.
- Early deep autumn plowing is also necessary.
- To destroy butterflies and young caterpillars, beet crops and seed plants are sprayed with the same preparations that are used to combat the beet bug.
- On the testes, spraying is carried out in the rosette phase and when the flower stalks grow.
During the summer two or three sprayings are carried out. Liquid consumption is 500 l per 1 ha.
Root aphid
The beet root aphid is a very harmful species of the Aphid suborder. It feeds on the fibrous roots of beets, which leads to the death of the plant.
Root aphid It differs from the common beet aphid in its yellowish-white color.
Aphids feed on root crops, clinging to the side roots, as a result of which the supply of water and nutrients to the plants is disrupted. Plants are stunted, leaves wither and dry out.
Various diseases develop on weakened root crops in the field and during storage.
The damage to beets by root aphids can be judged by the condition of the plants; beet leaves are underdeveloped and pale in color.
Foci of damage appear on plants in late July - early August.
Under optimal conditions for aphid development, the size of the lesions quickly increases, and by the time of harvesting, almost all plants are affected.
Root aphids, like other types of aphids, reproduce parthenogenetically; in July - September, females hatch live larvae.
In the first ten days of September, winged individuals, sexual females, appear and lay eggs.
Larvae of various ages and wingless females overwinter in the soil.
Together with beet roots, aphids can be brought into storage, where they will continue to develop.
On the roots of root vegetables, in most cases it is under a white fluffy waxy coating.
Measures to combat root aphids:
- To prevent the spread of root aphids, it is necessary to identify their foci.
- Sow beets away from affected beetroots.
- Destroy white pigweed everywhere, since in the spring the pest feeds and reproduces on its roots.
- In the affected area, root crops must be immediately removed and used for livestock feed.
- Before sowing, the seeds are treated with fentiuram or fentiuram-molybdate at the rate of 4-6 g per 1 kg of seeds.
Beet weevil
The common beet weevil greatly damages plantings and seed plants of various types of beets
The beetle is grayish-brown in color, 12-16 mm long, the elytra have a white spot at the end.
The beetles leave their wintering grounds as soon as the soil warms up to 10°C; first they feed on weeds from the Chenopodiaceae family (quinoa, pigweed, bird buckwheat), and then move on to beet crops.
The beetles eat beet seedlings, and if they appear en masse, the crops can die completely.
In May - June, female beetles lay eggs in the top layer of soil near beet plants and weeds. After 10-11 days, the eggs hatch into white, arched larvae with a brown head, up to 30 mm long, which feed on beet roots.
As a result of damage, the beet leaves wilt, the roots become ugly, and the yield decreases. The larvae develop within 45-90 days.
Measures to combat beet weevil
In the fight against beet weevil, the following are important:
- beet sowing dates,
- fertilizing plants and careful treatment of row spacing,
- seed dressing with 65% fentiuram at the rate of 4-6 kg per 1 ton of seeds.
For better adhesion of the powder, the seeds should be moistened with water - 15 liters per 1 ton of seeds.
Dead eaters
This group of pests, which is extremely dangerous for beets, includes dark, notched, smooth and naked carrion beetles. The most dangerous for vegetable crops is the smooth carrion beetle.
Dead eaters- beetles are very widespread, but they are especially harmful in the Leningrad, Murmansk, Arkhangelsk regions and the Far East.
There are several types of carrion eaters: naked, smooth, dark and notched.
Vegetable crops are most damaged by the smooth carrion beetle.
Smooth carrion eater- a beetle 9-12 mm long, black, the top is quite densely covered with reddish hairs, so it appears yellow-brown. Beetles overwinter in the ground under stones and leaves.
In the spring, they leave their wintering grounds and first feed on wild, then cultivated plants of beets, potatoes and all cabbage crops. They are especially dangerous for beet seedlings.
Female beetles lay whitish oval eggs in the soil.
The larvae develop for 14-20 days, then pupate in the soil.
At the end of June and July (in the middle zone), the second generation of beetles emerge.
Measures to combat the carrion beetle:
In the fight against the dead beetle, loosening the row spacing during the period of beetle laying and destroying weeds is of great importance.
Sprayings are effective against beetles and larvae:
- 50% k.e. actellica,
- 25% k.e. antio,
- 40%-poi k.e. phosphamide.
The last spraying is carried out 20, and with phosphamide - 30 days before harvesting.
Pests attack crops unnoticed. If a person sees that midges have appeared on the leaves, they should immediately begin processing the plant in order to save the harvest. Aphids need to be removed quickly but thoroughly.
A gardener can use one of the existing methods:
- chemical insecticides;
- folk remedies;
- mechanical methods.
Beets attract not only aphids, but also other pests. Therefore, it is recommended to choose the most suitable method. In each specific case, a certain method will be needed. The size of the plot is taken into account, as well as the number of plantings.
Fighting aphids with folk remedies
Recently, people have been avoiding insecticides. Chemicals help quickly get rid of pests, but can have a negative effect on the body. According to manufacturers, chemicals are removed from the vegetable. But some remains and ends up in the human body after eating beetroot dishes. Therefore, many people prefer folk remedies to combat aphids.
The fight against aphids on beets involves exclusively folk remedies. The solution may include components found in every housewife’s kitchen. They are also easy to find in the garden. A person may not even know what valuable herbs grow in his summer cottage, and how they can help in the fight against aphids.
Water
Excessive pest infestation of vegetation (vegetables and weeds) usually indicates that the problem is quite serious. Gardeners underestimate small midges. They easily overwinter in the remains of weeds. Therefore, to eliminate the possibility of infection, it is necessary to weed the rows as needed.
After prolonged rains, you may notice that there are fewer aphids. So why not take advantage of nature's clues? To combat the hated midges, use ordinary water. With the help of irrigation, the leaves are cleaned, taking into account that there must be a certain pressure.
Soap solution for aphids
Among the folk remedies for combating aphids, there are other measures - irrigation with a soap solution. For preparation, you can use liquid or laundry soap. In the first case, 100 milliliters of product will be needed per 1 liter of water, in the second - 100 grams. The ingredients are mixed until a homogeneous liquid is obtained.
To do a good job of ridding beets of midges, you need to use soap without fragrances. In this case, you need to add 20 grams or 20 milliliters of tar soap. Its pungent smell will serve as a double blow to midges. The prepared mixture is poured into a spray bottle and the procedure begins.
Soap and soda mixture for aphids
The previous recipe can be improved by adding soda to the liquid. It is recommended to prepare a large amount to spray healthy plants for prevention. Grind 300 grams of laundry soap and add 10 liters of water. Add 5 tablespoons of soda ash to the liquid. The prepared composition is completely safe, so it can be used to process vegetables and fruits.
If you use this control method in a timely manner, you will be able to quickly get rid of midges and also avoid the appearance of new ones. Soap plays an important role in this recipe. Covering the surface of the leaves, the liquid forms a thin film. Because of its appearance, aphids cannot feed on beet juice.
Infusion of ash to combat aphids
Another effective and easy-to-prepare remedy is an infusion of ash. Suitable not only for spraying beets growing from the soil, but also for watering open ground. The bucket is half filled with water and 200 grams of ash are added. Stir and leave to infuse. It is better to prepare the solution in the evening.
The next day, in the morning, the liquid is ready for use. You need to pour it into the sprayer and treat all the vegetation. The result becomes noticeable after the first use. Ash is one of the most effective methods of controlling midges. It is used in dry form or a solution is prepared, which is also used in summer cottages.
Tobacco solution against aphids on plants
You can get rid of aphids using tobacco. In a family where there is a smoker, there will probably be a jar of cigarette butts. You need to collect 200 grams, add 4 liters of water and leave for a day. When the product is ready, strain to obtain a liquid solution.
The end result is a highly concentrated liquid. To prevent this from becoming a hindrance when growing vegetables, the solution is diluted with water before use. It is not recommended to spray beets before digging. You can make homemade preparations from shag to process the plant for the next season.
Infusion of zest
How else can you treat beet beds against aphids? You will need citrus peels. After eating an orange, it is not recommended to throw away the peel, as it may be useful in the future. To prepare the tincture, you need to take 400 grams of orange zest, after drying it.
Do not chop the peel and add 1 liter of boiling water. After a day, you will get a concentrated infusion, which is placed on low heat and continued to cook for 20 minutes. The finished liquid is filtered and a bucket of water is added.
Laundry or liquid soap will help increase the effectiveness of the solution.
Spicy herbal infusions against aphids
Aphids do not tolerate strong odors, so you can use infusions of burning herbs and spices.
Suitable for this purpose:
- horseradish;
- garlic;
- pepper;
Regardless of the choice of plant, it is finely crushed and filled with water. In this way, the vegetables will quickly give off all the sharpness that is so necessary when fighting aphids. The solution is easy to prepare with your own hands, so there is no need to look for a master class on the Internet. As it cools, the liquid becomes saturated with an aroma that causes midges to leave the plant.
Gardeners who have summer cottages near water bodies can use celandine. To process large beet plantations you will need 5 kilograms of fresh grass. The celandine is cut with a knife and poured with boiling water. After 2 days, the celandine infusion will be ready for use. Before spraying, be sure to filter it from small plant parts.
Be sure to add soap to the solution. This little trick will increase the effectiveness of your homemade spraying agent.
Infusion of tomato or potato tops
As it turns out, the tops of crops such as potatoes and tomatoes can be useful. In order for the infusion to be prepared as quickly as possible and to be of good quality, it must be crushed before soaking. Pour boiled water over everything and leave until completely cool. Potato and tomato sprouts are suitable. To prevent the crushed branches from interfering during spraying, they are pulled out of the solution.
The prepared liquid is enough for many treatments. Since the solution is concentrated, it is diluted in water. The ideal proportion is 1:1. The procedure is repeated as necessary.
Onion infusion against aphids
The treatment is not made from green onion feathers or the underground soft part. They take the husk that covers the bulbs. You should collect as many yellow scales as possible and add water. Place on fire, stirring occasionally.
The readiness of the solution is indicated by the rich brown color of the water. Without removing the husk, the liquid is taken to a cold room. After a day, they begin to irrigate the beet leaves. Add a little liquid soap to the sprayer container.
Pine infusion
This recipe will be much more difficult, since not everyone has the opportunity to pick coniferous branches. To get a component for the infusion, you need to go into the forest or find the nearest planting. Pine branches with green needles are filled with water. This is where the preparation just begins.
A bucket of water and pine needles is taken out to a dark place and left for a week. During this time, it is necessary to stir it periodically so that the water is saturated with the components from the pine needles. The resulting concentrate is also diluted with water before use. Black aphids are especially sensitive to pine needles.
Sorrel against aphids
For the infusion, take horse sorrel, namely its roots. As in previous cases, it is crushed and filled with water. This recipe is prepared quickly, so you don’t need to wait 2-3 days to start spraying. Beet processing begins after 2 hours. The components of the herb quickly penetrate the body of the aphid, so the infusion can be washed off without worrying about its effect.
Flower infusions against aphids
Chamomile is a versatile plant. The same tea is prepared from small flowers, only increasing the concentration, after which it is used to spray seedlings. Based on dandelion, you can also obtain a toxic substance for processing beets. When exposed to water, a bitter solution is obtained that has a detrimental effect on aphids.
Essential oils against aphids
Since small midges cannot stand the persistent smell, regular aromatic oil comes to the rescue. Suitable for treating white, red and black aphids. Use in pure form or add ash. The number of midges decreases every day after treatment.
Traditional methods of controlling aphids are effective because they can be used at any time during the growing season. If the treatment was carried out 3-4 weeks ago, it is still recommended to rinse the root vegetables in water before eating. As a rule, the tops are also eaten, but those on which there were no midges.
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