Charming columbine is one of our favorite shade-tolerant perennials. In the garden, touching aquilegia flowers with spurs seem to be either fluttering fairies or elf caps, shining with mystery and captivating with their grace. And although this is not the most spectacular of flowering fashionistas, it is very reliable. And beautifully flowering varieties of aquilegia can surprise no less than their most striking competitors. Whatever kind of aquilegia we are talking about, the most popular and affordable way to multiply their collection is to grow plants from seeds, especially since there is nothing complicated in this process.
Aquilegia (Aquilegia) is one of the most popular garden perennials. Despite the fact that the plant is predominantly represented by various hybrid varieties and mixtures of varieties, and species-specific aquilegias are considered very rare, seed propagation is the main method of propagation for all aquilegias. And although these plants can also be obtained by vegetative methods, it is easier, faster and much cheaper to obtain aquilegia from seeds. By purchasing just a few bags or collecting the seeds yourself, you can get enough full-fledged seedlings for any large ensemble in one “run”.
Aquilegia is easily recognized by the famous spur on the flowers, thanks to which the plant received its specific name. Touching flowers that evoke a wide variety of associations with fairy-tale characters and spirits are a small masterpiece of nature that you never tire of admiring. Complex flowers on thin stalks in loose inflorescences sparkle mysteriously and weightlessly in shaded areas of the garden, sparkling against the bright background of leaves. Trifoliate, invariably bright in early spring, summer, and autumn, the leaves seem to be an openwork and velvety background shining in the shade for quivering flowering. Single or double, with a double perianth, columbine flowers are ideally combined with bright leaves. Among the aquilegias there are low-growing and taller plants, large-flowered and double. You can choose them to your taste and for any decorative task.
Independent collection of aquilegia seeds and their selection for sowing
If you want to collect seeds from aquilegia yourself, then it is better to plant the varieties at a considerable distance and not mix them in compositions, since they are very easily pollinated and crossed. If you collect seeds in decorative compositions and flower beds, then you can control the varietal purity of aquilegia by preventing natural pollination - by tying gauze insulators and self-pollinating the flowers with a brush (you need to wash and dry it after each pollination). The collection of aquilegia seeds is usually carried out in August, before they wake up (it is better to dry the fruits in room conditions). When you lightly press the sides of the “boxes,” the seeds easily spill out. Tying helps prevent this process. If it is not possible to sow the seeds directly into the soil, then they are stored at a low temperature.
It is advisable to sow aquilegia seeds as fresh as possible. The shelf life of seeds is limited; even after several months, collected seeds will need stratification. When buying aquilegia seeds, you need to carefully study the collection time and storage conditions, try not to buy seeds older than 1 year, even if you really like the varieties. The maximum shelf life is 5 years; seeds older than 2 years are difficult to get to sprout, but with proper sowing, strong seedlings can be obtained from them. Aquilegia is popular and affordable, there are a lot of seeds on sale, you just need to choose a reliable manufacturer. It is better to select mixtures and varieties according to your taste.
Soil and containers for sowing aquilegia
Aquilegia can be sown as seedlings, in seedling boxes, or directly in open soil. Moreover, the last option is the most popular and productive. When choosing containers for growing aquilegia seedlings, preference should be given to boxes or pots that are deep enough so that the plants have enough space to form a tap root. For diving, it is better to choose peat and paper containers in which you can plant the plant directly into the soil.
For aquilegia, a standard universal substrate for seedlings or any light soil mixture is quite suitable. If you make up the substrate yourself, then mix equal parts of turf soil, leaf soil, humus and sand, or a mixture of turf soil, humus and sand without leaf soil.
Sowing aquilegia seeds at home
The optimal time for sowing aquilegia seeds is considered to be sowing immediately after harvest, in the fall. When purchasing seeds, sowing to obtain higher germination percentages is also best done in the fall. Alternative dates are early spring, but in this case Aquilegia seeds will require stratification(preferably grown through seedlings, but can also be sown in the ground).
When sowing aquilegia in autumn No pre-planting treatment is needed into the soil of freshly harvested seeds. Sowing is carried out before winter, and the whole procedure comes down to a few steps:
- Carefully sow the seeds into a seedling bed with prepared, dug, loosened soil.
- Cover them on top with a thin layer of soil (about 0.5 cm). Water carefully.
- Mulch the crops with humus or compost, covering them with a thin layer of dry leaves (any mulching material available to you will do).
When sowing aquilegia in spring and for seedlings, and it is advisable to stratify the seeds in the ground and store them in the cold. There are several options for this procedure:
- keep aquilegia seeds in the refrigerator for 4-6 weeks;
- mix the seeds with soil, place in a container and bag and keep in the refrigerator all winter;
- take aquilegia seeds or a mixture of seeds with sand or substrate outside, place them in a snowdrift, etc.
Some gardeners are experimenting with the reverse procedure - keeping seeds in heat (35 degrees for 4-5 weeks) or scarification (processing with sandpaper). But, as a rule, more friendly shoots of aquilegia are obtained when cooled.
When sowing seedlings in the spring with self-collected or purchased seeds harvested in the fall of the previous year, you must:
- Fill the container with the substrate and level its surface, pour warm water over the substrate.
- Lightly scatter the stratified aquilegia seeds over the surface and sprinkle a few millimeters of soil (preferably sifted) on top.
- Transfer the containers to room conditions for germination, covering them with glass or film.
You can sow aquilegia seeds in spring and in open soil. The optimal time for sowing seeds is April or early May, when the soil warms up. Seeds freshly collected in the fall of the previous year can be used without stratification. Aquilegia seeds are also sown to a depth of half a centimeter, as in the fall, but the crops are covered with film on top. Germination requires regular watering. The shelter is removed only when friendly shoots appear. If you want to simplify the growing process, sowing can be done later, but then the young plants will have to be provided with more careful care.
The most difficult process is sowing very old seeds. In this case, the procedure changes slightly; stratification is carried out after sowing:
- Aquilegia seeds should be washed in water and soaked for several hours in a warm solution of potassium permanganate.
- Sow the seeds in a leveled substrate and lightly cover with soil.
- Without covering the containers, leave them at room temperature for 3-4 days.
- The containers are taken outside or placed in the refrigerator for stratification for 4-6 weeks.
- Bring the crops back into the heat and place them in standard room conditions.
Conditions for germination of aquilegia seeds
Both heat and coolness are equally harmful to aquilegia seeds. The optimal temperature at which even old seeds germinate within a month is 16-18 degrees. Lighting should be as bright as possible, but diffused.
Growing Aquilegia
In containers, seedlings are grown until the second leaf appears. Seedlings must be protected from waterlogging and complete drought, direct sunlight, and watered very carefully.
Picking seedlings and caring for young aquilegias
It is advisable to plant aquilegia seedlings directly into the beds, into open soil. If the seeds were sowed early, it is not possible to plant them even in a greenhouse, then the plants are planted either in individual containers or in large boxes, increasing the distance between the plants, and transferred to the soil already in June. When picking, aquilegias must be handled very carefully, trying to avoid even the slightest injury to the rhizome. The seedlings are kept in the same cool conditions. Supplemental lighting of at least 1-2 hours will only benefit the plants.
When sown in open soil, friendly young shoots of aquilegia are thinned out at the same stage, leaving a distance of 5-20 cm between plants.
Planting aquilegia seedlings in the soil
Aquilegia obtained from seeds will bloom only in the second year, but the full development of the decorative properties of the greenery should not be expected before the third year. Therefore, most often, aquilegias are transferred to separate seedling beds for growing in May-June, and are transplanted to a permanent place only in August of the current year or in the spring of next year. But you can plant plants directly into decorative compositions.
When choosing a place to grow aquilegia, you should remember that these are shade-tolerant plants that are best suited to partial shade. Aquilegia will also take root in sunny areas, but will fade faster and will not be pampered with its luxurious foliage. The soil can be virtually anything, as long as the conditions of sufficient nutritional value, looseness, and water permeability are met. Before planting, it is better to improve the soil by adding compost or other organic fertilizer. It is advisable to dig up the soil on the site in advance, but you can carry out the procedure immediately before planting.
The distance when planting aquilegia seedlings is from 25 cm for the lowest varieties to 40 cm for tall ones. Plants are transferred with complete preservation of the earthen coma.
Young aquilegias require slightly more intensive care than adults or those obtained by division: plants must be weeded so that delicate plants are not harmed by aggressive neighbors, and do not forget to loosen the soil after heavy watering and rainfall. Watering is carried out until active growth resumes, and then only during prolonged drought. In summer, young aquilegias can be fertilized with full mineral fertilizers. If your aquilegias suddenly bloom in the same year, then cut off the shoots immediately after flowering, not allowing seeds to set.
For the winter, young aquilegias are mulched with compost or humus.
Next spring, be sure to add soil to the base of the aquilegia bushes in order to prevent the rhizome from being exposed and rising in the soil from the very beginning.
Alternative methods of propagation of Aquilegia
These perennials always give active self-seeding, virtually continuously providing you with ready-made seedlings. It is enough to carefully dig up young plants and transplant them to any desired place, if there is a need for additional specimens of aquilegia (if not, then as they grow, self-seeding will help to effortlessly replace adult bushes when they degenerate).
Aquilegias are rarely propagated vegetatively; the plants tolerate replanting very poorly due to their deep-lying and fragile roots. Dividing can only be done in early September or early spring by digging up aquilegia bushes, leaving only 2-3 young leaves and carefully cutting the tap root lengthwise into pieces with 2-3 buds and a good bunch of roots in each. Rooting requires regular watering.
Varietal aquilegias can be propagated by cuttings of young shoots with leaves that have just begun to bloom, breaking them off at the “heel” and rooting them under the cap.
Plant aquilegia (lat. Aquilegia), or catchment area, or orlik, belongs to the genus of herbaceous perennials of the Ranunculaceae family. According to various sources, there are from 60 to 120 species of plants growing in the mountainous regions of the Northern Hemisphere. About 35 species are grown in culture. There is disagreement about the origin of the Latin name: some claim that it is derived from the words aqua - “water” and legere - “to collect”, while others believe that the name is based on the word aquila, which means “eagle”.
Aquilegia has long been known in the world of flower growers and beyond. It is also mentioned in fiction, for example, in “Hamlet” Ophelia offers her brother Laertes a columbine flower (as the English call aquilegia). And in the paintings of medieval artists, the aquilegia flower symbolized the presence of the Holy Spirit.
Listen to the article
Planting and caring for aquilegia (in brief)
- Landing: sowing seeds in the ground immediately after collection or in March for seedlings after stratification of the seed, followed by planting the seedlings in open ground in June.
- Bloom: June July.
- Lighting: bright sunlight or partial shade.
- The soil: light, loose, moist, rich in humus.
- Watering: infrequent, but regular, in dry hot weather - frequent.
- Feeding: 1-2 times per season with complete mineral or organic fertilizer in liquid form.
- Reproduction: seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush.
- Pests: aphids, spider mites, nematodes, cutworm caterpillars.
- Diseases: rust, powdery mildew, gray rot.
Read more about growing aquilegia below.
Aquilegia flower - description
Aquilegia flowers have a two-year development cycle: in the first year, a regeneration point appears at the base of the shoot, from which by autumn, after flowering, a basal rosette is formed. In spring, the leaves of this rosette die, a second generation of leaves appears, forming a rosette, from the center of which a peduncle will appear, and on it - stem leaves and flowers. The rosette leaves of Aquilegia are on long petioles, twice or thrice trifoliate, and the stem leaves are sessile and trifoliate. Aquilegia flowers are single, drooping, differing depending on the type and variety in size and color: there are blue, yellow, white, crimson, purple, two-color flowers, and also combining several shades.
In the photo: Purple aquilegia
Flowers of many species are equipped with spurs- hollow outgrowths of petals or sepals in which nectar accumulates. The spur species include European and American types of aquilegia - Alpine, ferruginous, Olympic and ordinary, as well as blue, Canadian, Skinner's, golden and Californian aquilegia. Japanese and Chinese species of aquilegia have flowers without spurs. The fruit of Aquilegia is multileaf; small shiny black poisonous seeds remain viable for about a year.
Growing aquilegia from seeds
How to grow aquilegia from seeds? It is best to sow aquilegia in the ground immediately after collecting the seeds, and in the spring, when shoots appear, transplant them to a permanent place. But if you have to postpone sowing until spring, then store the seed at a low temperature.
To prevent aquilegia seeds from losing their viability over the winter, they are mixed with soil and placed in the refrigerator.
In the spring, in March, the seeds are washed from the soil and sown in boxes with a well-compacted and watered light substrate of humus, sand and leaf soil in equal proportions. A 3 mm layer of soil is poured on top of the laid out seeds through a fine sieve and the box is covered with newspaper or burlap. Keep containers with crops in a shaded room at a temperature of 16-18 ºC, moistening the top layer of soil as necessary with a spray bottle. Sprouts usually appear within a week or two from the day of sowing. When the first pair of true leaves appear - usually in late April or early May - the seedlings are transplanted into more nutritious loamy soil.
Planting aquilegia
When to plant aquilegia
Aquilegia sprouts are planted in open ground in June, but not in a permanent place, but for growing. Be sure to shade young plants from the scorching rays of the sun. In a place where they will grow for several years, strengthened and grown young aquilegias are planted in August or spring of next year. The place for planting mature aquilegia can be in partial shade or in the sun. In brightly lit places, their flowering period is somewhat shorter, and the flowers are smaller and weaker than those of those specimens that grow in partial shade. Aquilegia grown from seeds blooms in the second year and reaches full maturity in the third.
In the photo: Red aquilegia in the garden
How to plant aquilegia
Aquilegia is an undemanding plant when it comes to soil, but it still grows better in loose, light, moist humus soils. To improve the composition of the soil, dig it up before planting aquilegia with humus or compost at the rate of one bucket of fertilizer per 1 m³. The digging depth is approximately 20 cm. Aquilegia is planted in such a way that there are 10-12 plants per square meter, depending on the variety or species. Tall forms of aquilegia are planted at a distance of 40 cm from each other, low-growing ones - at a distance of 25 cm.
Please note that aquilegia tends to scatter seeds into the soil, so be prepared to fight self-seeding.
But some gardeners allow plants to grow by self-sowing, because after 5-6 years, when the bushes you planted grow old and lose their decorative properties, they can be dug up, leaving young plants that have grown independently in the flowerbed.
Aquilegia care
How to care for aquilegia
As usual, the main care for aquilegia consists of watering, fertilizing, loosening and weeding the soil around the plant during the period of active growth. Aquilegia loves to drink, but since its root system goes deep into the ground, it rarely suffers from a lack of moisture, except in severe drought. Remove weeds on time, especially while the seedlings are young and short; loosen the soil after watering or rain so that moisture does not evaporate quickly from the surface layer of soil and feed the aquilegia so that it finds its best shape. Fertilize areas with aquilegia twice a summer: mineral fertilizers at the beginning of active growth - 50 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium salt and 25 g of nitrate per 1 m² and a non-concentrated solution of mullein at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 m². Two feedings in the summer are quite enough.
Pictured: Catchment cultivation
Aquilegia propagation
In addition to the seed method for propagating aquilegia, vegetative methods are also used in floriculture - by dividing the bush and cuttings.
Dividing the bush used only in extreme cases, when it is necessary to preserve some particularly valuable form or variety. The fact is that the root system of aquilegia lies very deep, and fragile roots do not tolerate the procedure of transplantation and division. If you still had to resort to this method, select a bush 3-5 years old in early spring or early autumn, dig it up, very carefully so as not to damage the small roots, wash them off the ground, cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm and all the leaves except two or three of the youngest, then cut the taproot in half lengthwise so that each half contains two or three renewal buds and several small roots, sprinkle the cut with crushed coal and plant the cuttings in boxes with a light but nutritious soil mixture . Most likely, they will be sick for a long time.
But most often aquilegia is sick powdery mildew– a white fungal coating appears on the leaves and stems, under which the leaves curl, turn brown and die. To get rid of the fungus, you need to spray the plants with a solution of colloidal sulfur with green soap.
Among insects, the enemies of Aquilegia are aphids, spider mites, cutworms and nematodes. The drugs Actellik, yarrow paste and Karbofos have proven themselves well against aphids and spider mites.
But with nematodes it is very difficult to fight and often in the end you just have to change the area, and in the affected flower bed plant those plants that are not afraid of nematodes - onions, cereals, garlic. Sick plants are burned.
Aquilegia after flowering
When the aquilegia fades, the stems that have lost their decorative effect are cut back to the rosette of leaves. Parts of healthy plants can be used for compost, but diseased specimens should be burned to prevent contamination of the soil and other plants. If you want to try the seed propagation method, leave peduncles with flowers of the varieties you need for the seeds to ripen, putting gauze bags on the fruit to avoid self-seeding. After flowering, you can start dividing the bush and at the same time planting plants. At the same time, in September-October, seeds are sown before winter.
In the photo: Grown from aquilegia seeds
Aquilegia in winter
There is one more type of work that needs to be done after the aquilegia blooms. The fact is that in four- to five-year-old plants, the roots begin to protrude from the ground, which affects young leaves and shoots, so after removing the peduncle, you need to pour peat manure compost with humus under the bush to cover these roots. In this way, the aquilegia will receive additional feeding before winter and at the same time will be protected from frost by mulch.
Plant lupine in the garden - a beautiful flower and green manure
Types and varieties of aquilegia
Despite the fact that aquilegia in nature has about 120 species, not such a large number of them have been introduced into culture. The following species are most often cultivated.
Alpine Aquilegia (Aquilegia alpina)
A low (up to 30 cm) plant that can grow up to 80 cm in height in rich soils. Aquilegia alpine has large flowers - up to 8 cm in diameter, different shades of blue, the spurs are short and curved. This species blooms in late June-early July;
In the photo: Alpine Aquilegia (Aquilegia alpina)
Aquilegia flabellata
Or Aquilegia Akita , a plant up to 60 cm high with trifoliate long-petiolate leaves of a basal rosette, with flowers 5-6 cm in diameter with long, strongly curved spurs. There are from one to five flowers on a peduncle; they are blue-lilac in color with a white fuzzy border along the edge. This type of aquilegia is winter-hardy and grows well because it self-sows;
In the photo: Aquilegia flabellata
Common aquilegia (Aquilegia vulgaris)
The European species is 40-80 cm in height with flowers 5 cm in diameter in different shades of blue and purple, but in culture numerous varieties of this type of aquilegia are usually grown with flowers of various colors, simple, double, with spurs or without spurs. This is the most frost-resistant type of aquilegia - can withstand up to -35 ºC;
In the photo: Common Aquilegia (Aquilegia vulgaris)
Hybrid Aquilegia (Aquilegia hybrida)
Which combines various forms, most often obtained from crossing American species with Aquilegia vulgaris. Depending on the variety, it grows in height from 50 cm to 1 m. Hybrids have spurs of different lengths; there are also spurless varieties; the flowers are large, up to 9 cm in diameter, both simple and double;
Graceful, as if created from magic lace, aquilegia, when grown from seeds when planted, will decorate any flower garden if all the rules are followed. Even its mass plantings attract attention with intricately shaped flowers and a variety of colors. The delicate, beautiful flower has several names; it is often called columbine, “elf slippers,” columbine, or eagle.
Aquilegia, belonging to the buttercup family, is a herbaceous perennial; some varieties grow up to a meter in height. The tap root is often buried quite deeply - up to 50-60 centimeters.
The basal rosette of leaves is decorative in itself and is a lush bush. Carved openwork leaves crowning long petioles are covered with a light coating of a bluish-bluish tint. They retain their beauty until late autumn.
At the end of spring, tall peduncles with trifoliate sessile leaves grow from the center of the rosette. The peduncle usually produces from 8 to 12 flowers, rarely more, depending on the variety.
The flowers are double or simple, have a regular shape, and a wide palette of colors and shades. Their sizes depend on the variety - from 3 to 10 centimeters in diameter.
The corolla is formed by five pointed sepals and five petals, forming a funnel-shaped lower part, ending with spur-shaped outgrowths (spurs) in the upper part. Based on the type of spurs, a species classification has been made:
- hook-shaped/ring-shaped – European species;
- long straight - American;
- without spurs - Japanese, Chinese.
Flowering begins in early summer and can continue until the onset of cold weather. The fruits begin to ripen in about a month.
Important! The seeds of the plant are poisonous! All work is carried out using rubber gloves.
Conditions necessary for growing aquilegia from seeds
Columbine is not considered a particularly demanding plant. The composition of the soil is of little importance to him, the main thing is that it is light, loose, and sufficiently moist.
“Elf slippers” can bloom fully in any area - illuminated, shaded. At the same time, you need to know that dense shade increases susceptibility to diseases, and too bright sun helps to stretch the plant. It is best to choose a place where the midday hours are accompanied by light penumbra - “lace shadow”. Among the variety of varieties, there are some that are suitable for rocky soil. Such varieties will decorate with dignity.
Sowing time
Aquilegia seeds lose their viability quite quickly. Their maximum shelf life does not exceed 2-3 years, and the best results are obtained by sowing fresh ones, sown immediately after harvest. Mid-October (temperate climate) – mid-November (southern regions) are suitable for sowing.
aquilegia seeds
Autumn sowing gives the best results; it is carried out directly in the garden, the seeds are buried, but not watered. Planting material stored for more than a year is preferably sown in seedlings. This is usually done in March; in the south, the optimal sowing time is the first or second ten days of February.
Interesting! If you sow “elf slippers” in February, it will bloom within six months.
Containers for sowing
Stores offer a wide range of containers, but choosing a container for aquilegia can be difficult, since the plant forms a long root literally immediately.
Important! Containers must be more than 10 centimeters deep.
The material of the pots/containers is not of fundamental importance. These can be wooden seedling boxes, plastic containers or any plastic container, food grade will do. Deep plastic food containers with transparent lids may be most convenient. It’s easy to make holes in them to drain excess water, and the transparent lid makes it easy to create a mini-greenhouse.
Soil preparation
The undemanding nature of the watershed in terms of soil composition allows the use of universal standard soil, which is offered by flower shops, when growing seedlings. You can prepare your own substrate from the following mixtures:
- turf soil, leaf soil, humus, sand.
- turf soil, humus, sand.
All components are taken in equal parts.
Important! Before sowing seeds, any substrate must be disinfected with a manganese solution or calcined.
Seed stratification
This procedure is necessary to restore the natural development cycle. You can do this in several ways:
- The seeds are kept in the refrigerator for a month and a half.
- Mix with soil or sand, pack in a bag, keep in the refrigerator until sowing time.
- The mixture is taken outside and covered with snow.
The last method is optimal, but is not suitable for the southern regions.
Interesting! Stratification is often replaced by the opposite procedure: the seeds are kept for several weeks (usually 4-5) at a temperature of about 35 degrees (for example, next to heating devices).
Seed germination can be stimulated by scarifying them (intentionally damaging the shell). Use fine sandpaper. Practice shows that healthier, stronger, friendly shoots are obtained with traditional stratification.
Sowing technology
The surface of the substrate is leveled and seeds are scattered over it. Thickening is undesirable, so they are usually mixed with sand. To distribute seeds evenly, a “snow cushion” is often used. The prepared soil mixture is covered with a small layer of compacted snow, and seeds are sprinkled on top. They are clearly visible against a white background, so it is easier to avoid them being too close together.
Important! Sowing is carried out in moist, disinfected soil.
Burying the seeds is undesirable, so they are slightly pressed into the ground with the palm of your hand or a cylindrical container, rolling it over the surface. Then the crops are sprinkled with a thin (up to 3 millimeters) layer of soil mixture or clean sand (up to 5 millimeters), previously calcined. Then the crops are moistened using a spray bottle.
They do this for two reasons:
- seeds have increased sensitivity to moisture;
- they will not become exposed after watering.
After this, the container is covered with a transparent lid or film/glass to limit the evaporation of moisture with sufficient diffuse lighting. To place the containers, choose well-lit window sills or shelves; the temperature is maintained at about +15 degrees.
Important! Bright direct rays of the sun are contraindicated for seedlings, so south-facing windows must be equipped with light shading.
Shoots appear within 7-10 days.
Old planting material is sown using a different technology.
- Rinse with water, soak in a warm solution of pink potassium permanganate.
- Sowing on prepared soil, sprinkling with sand.
- Keep the crops for 3-4 days at room temperature, without covering them.
- 3-4 weeks of exposure to the cold - outside, in the refrigerator, to stratify them.
- They are brought into the room, providing them with standard conditions.
Basics of caring for seedlings
When shoots appear, the transparent covering of the seedling container is removed. This period requires attention to the state of air and soil humidity: waterlogging can cause blackleg disease in seedlings.
Watering is carried out 2-3 times a week, using a spray bottle for this purpose. The water should be at room temperature, standing for at least a day, and soft.
There is no clear opinion about feeding. It is generally accepted that the supply of nutrients in the seeds is quite enough to provide the seedling with them before the formation of true leaves. The substrate contains approximately the same supply of useful components, so most often the seedlings are not fed.
If it turns out that the seedlings are dense, you can feed them with complex fertilizer once every two weeks. It is best to use a syringe, carefully spraying the nutrient mixture directly onto the substrate. The required temperature for normal growth of seedlings is 18 degrees, deviation of 1-1.5 degrees from the optimal is allowed. The lighting should be bright but diffuse. Direct sunlight is not allowed.
Important! Excessively thickened seedlings are immediately thinned out.
Picking
Seedlings are picked when they form two or three leaves. It is highly undesirable to delay the procedure, as this can cause root damage and various flower diseases. The best time of day to carry out the event would be morning or early evening. When growing seedlings at home, the ideal option for picking seedlings is to plant them in separate containers.
It is advisable that these be pots made of pressed cardboard or peat. At the same time, planting it in a garden bed means burying entire pots on the prepared bed, just removing their bottoms. That is, there is no need to remove the seedling from them, exposing it to stress.
Alternatively, you can line plastic or ceramic pots with a paper backing. This method will help reduce the likelihood of root damage when planting in open ground. Southern regions suggest planting seedlings directly onto the bed under the film if there is no threat of return frosts. 
Caring for seedlings at home
The soil mixture is made as indicated above. There is no need to add additional nutrients when planting seedlings. Watering is carried out several times a week, making sure that the substrate is constantly slightly moist. Water for irrigation needs to be soft, settled, and at room temperature. It is best to water using a spray bottle or sprinkler.
Direct sunlight is undesirable for seedlings, so shade them if necessary. The general requirement is that the lighting should be bright, but diffused. An hour and a half or two hours of additional lighting would be ideal.
The optimal temperature for growing is the same as for seedlings – 16-18 degrees.
Important! The young shoots of Aquilegia do not like drafts.
About a week after planting young flowers in individual containers, they begin to harden, that is, they are accustomed to the open air. The process is carried out by gradually increasing the duration of the seedlings’ stay in the open air - from 15 minutes (maximum) in the first few days.
For hardening, containers are either taken outside or the windows of the room where they are located are opened. In this case, the containers are installed as close as possible to the source of fresh air.
When and how to plant seedlings in open ground
The catchment is planted in open beds for growing when the night temperature consistently exceeds +15 degrees. Usually this is the third ten days of May - early June. The southern regions begin the process earlier. The planting site is chosen so as to provide the young animals with protection from the wind and shading during the midday hours; light, constant partial shade is most suitable.
Important! The places where aquilegia are supposed to be planted should be free from stagnant water - from melting snow, rain.
Undemanding in terms of soil composition (with the exception of heavy loams), the catchment requires thoroughly loosened soil. It is prepared for planting two weeks in advance:
- loosen;
- dig holes of such depth that the seedlings with their earthen ball can fit, at least 20 centimeters;
- if necessary, lay out a layer of drainage;
- the bottom of the holes is lined with a small amount of humus or compost;
- the distance between the holes is determined by the height of the variety, the minimum is 25 centimeters.
The seedlings are placed in prepared holes, covered, and watered well. If the soil settles after watering, it is replenished.
Important! Thickening of plantings can cause plant disease.
Caring for aquilegia in the garden
The basis of care is: loosening, weeding, regular watering. Fertilizing, disease prevention, pest control. The deep root allows it to survive short-term drought, but regular watering is an important component of care. In this case, you need to water the flowers from above - like rain, but not at the root.
Loosen the soil after each watering and after rains, preventing the formation of a surface crust - the root system needs air no less than moisture. Weeds are also regularly removed, especially while the catchment area is still young, since they interfere with the ventilation of the plantings, as a result of which they may suffer from diseases or pests.
Two feedings over the summer are enough for Aquilegia. The first time mineral fertilizers are applied with organic matter - diluted mullein in the spring, when active growth begins. The optimal amount of fertilizer required is 50 g. phosphorus, 15 gr. potassium, 25 gr. nitrogen (saltpeter), a bucket of mullein (not concentrated) / square meter of planting.
The second time they are fed in the second half of summer. The composition of the fertilizer is the same. At the end of flowering, the flower stalks are completely removed, since they have already lost their decorative effect. At the same time, the condition of the leaves is inspected - dry, diseased, and damaged ones are removed.
Important! Parts of plants affected by disease are immediately burned. Healthy ones can be used for compost.
They leave flower stalks of those flowers whose seeds will be used for propagation. In order to prevent spontaneous dispersal of seeds, the heads of faded flowers are tied with gauze “kerchiefs”. The end of summer is favorable for cuttings of aquilegia, dividing its root for propagation.
At the end of flowering, it is necessary to check the leaf rosette and the base of the flowers: in adults (over 3 years old), the roots characteristically begin to protrude from the soil. To prevent either the plant or its root system from freezing in winter, the protruding roots are covered with a mixture of compost, dry manure, and humus. This “blanket” will protect the roots and provide an additional portion of nutrients.
Diseases and pests
Moisture-loving columbine can be affected by diseases inherent in damp places - various fungal infections.
Gray rot is a gray coating covering the green parts of the plant. Watering is minimized, affected parts are removed, and fungicides are sprayed.
Rust covering the lower parts of the leaves with orange-brown pad spots. During treatment, diseased leaves are removed and copper-containing sprays are used.
Powdery mildew appears as a white coating and curled leaves. This usually happens after repeated sudden changes in weather. The affected parts are cut off and the plantings are treated with Topaz or other antifungal drugs.
Of the pests, columbine is most often susceptible to attacks by aphids. Traditional folk methods (infusions of onion, garlic, shag) and industrial insecticides - Karbofos, Aktara, Aktellik - help get rid of it.
Nematodes cause much more trouble. They not only disfigure flowers, but actively infect the soil. The only effective method of combating nematodes is the complete removal and destruction of infected plants, transplanting healthy ones to a new location, and deep tillage of the soil. After all, it is advisable to plant this area with onions or garlic, cereals, and nasturtium.
Useful tips for growing seedlings at home
- Experienced gardeners have a special daily calendar where they mark the dates when certain events related to sowing seeds and growing seedlings are carried out.
- The calendar will be useful for maintaining regular watering, which is important for aquilegia.
- When planting, carefully ensure that the roots are completely covered with soil. If necessary, they are covered with compost.
- Seeds of rare varieties are planted immediately in separate containers.
Many useful details regarding seed germination and cultivation features can be found by visiting various gardening forums.
Final part
Aquilegia, shrouded in secrets and legends, is a worthy decoration of the garden. The variety of its species, blooming at different times, the cultivation of which from seeds is not difficult, creates unique beauty almost all summer. How and when to plant it, before winter, in winter, in spring - any option will give a worthy reward.
And I decided to plant aquilegia again. For the third time, I bought new varieties of aquilegia, which were planted in November before winter in separate pots dug into the garden bed. The seeds were sprinkled with humus and soil 1:1. But this method is good if you have a lot of seeds, because more than half of the aquilegia did not survive the winter. Although, the rest sprouted perfectly in the spring and, transplanted directly from the pot into the flowerbed with soil, they survived both return frosts and heat.
My most successful landing experience was also the simplest.
Arriving at the dacha at the end of March and taking the aquilegia seeds with me, I sowed them in a cold film nursery. The temperature outside was +6°, in the nursery, of course, twice as warm. First, I spilled boiling water from a kettle on the ground, then a warm, weak solution of potassium permanganate. I simply scattered the seeds on the ground and sprinkled them with store-bought peat soil. I placed a plastic canister on top and covered it with polyethylene and spunbond. On April 12, having arrived at the dacha to plant seeds of summer flowers, I saw that the aquilegia seeds had sprouted. After that, I removed both the film and the spunbond from the crops, and left only the transparent canister. At the end of April I took it off too.
It turns out that aquilegia grew and developed under natural conditions: there were slight frosts and sun. On June 4, the aquilegia bushes “moved” to the flower bed. The bushes quickly took root; I didn’t even have to cover them.
Unfortunately, at that time I was not very interested in photography, but I publish what I found. The photo shows an aquilegia that bloomed in the first year.
I have read many times that aquilegia does not bloom in the first year of planting, but this aquilegia of mine bloomed in the first year. Apparently, when planting the seeds, they received a good dose of “adrenaline,” so to speak. :)
After flowering, I did not trim the flower stalks, but then collected the seeds from them. And the following spring, in March, I planted them again in a cold film nursery.
Conclusions and recommendations that must be followed in order to properly plant, grow, and propagate aquilegia.
Aquilegia does not lose its attractiveness throughout the season. When the flower corollas fade, the stem leaves gain strength: the bush becomes lush with a green-gray bloom. Gardeners often use this decorative feature to cover the stems of other flowers, whose leaves wither after flowering and the plants become very unattractive. Plant aquilegia next to irises, phlox, lilies, and bells. As a solo plant, Aquilegia is good around tree trunks.
Aquilegia loses its attractiveness after 6-7 years, so it is recommended to renew, divide and plant its bushes. Although, I read that if you prune the aquilegia every time after flowering, then it does not have to waste energy on setting seeds and it has more energy for growth - in this case, the aquilegia can grow in one place for up to 10 years or even more.
Now you know that it turns out that planting and growing aquilegia from seeds is not so difficult. Just remember, if you decide to grow aquilegia, but do not prune it after flowering, then it will self-sow in the garden and eventually turn from a beautiful varietal plant into an ordinary weed. Take this into account and keep an eye on your beautiful Aquilegia.
Author of the article: Love
When copying text, please indicate the address of our website.
The plants are unpretentious, with beautiful cut leaves and original flowers. Their height ranges from 40 to 100 cm.
Aquilegia (columbine) seeds are best purchased in specialized stores or online stores, which provide a large selection of species and varieties of this plant with simple and double flowers of various colors.
Seeds remain viable for 5 years. But the most viable ones are freshly harvested. You can prepare the seeds yourself. In August, when the seed pods begin to turn yellow, they need to be cut off and stored in a dry place until ripening. You should not wait for the bushes to fully ripen - the seeds easily fall out and then propagation occurs by self-sowing.
If several types of aquilegia are already growing on the site, then natural cross-pollination occurs. As a result, new plant species are obtained. If it is necessary to preserve the original variety, then the plants must be isolated by planting at a distance from each other.
In the title photo are flowers of Aquilegia vulgaris (common aquilegia), variety Rose Barlow.
Hybrid aquilegia seeds purchased in a store have a germination rate of approximately 60 - 70%. As a rule, there are 10 seeds in a package, 6-7 of them will germinate. Therefore, it is recommended to buy with a reserve.
The columbine is easily propagated by seeds. Seeds are sown in autumn, before winter or early spring.
Aquilegia in pot culture, variety Aquilegia flabellata, variety Cameo Blush.
Pre-winter sowing
This is the simplest and most effective way. It is carried out in October.
For this:
- Choose a semi-shaded place, add leaf humus to make the soil looser and more breathable.
- Sow the seeds and sprinkle a centimeter layer of soil on top.
- Lightly compact the soil with your palms.
- Water.
If the number of seeds is small and there is a risk of losing valuable specimens, then it is better to sow the seeds in small pots, which are then buried in the ground. With the onset of the first frost, cover the crops with a thin layer of mulch (for example, walnut leaves) or cover them with spunbond.
Thus, the seeds undergo natural acclimatization and produce good seedlings in the spring. By the end of May - beginning of June, grown plants are planted in flower beds. Distance between plants – minimum 30 cm. Seedlings bloom the next year in June. Long lasting flowering about 30 – 40 days.
Seedlings obtained by winter sowing are stronger and more resilient.
Aquilegia in pot culture, variety Aquilegia flabellata, variety Cameo Rose & White
Spring sowing
Spring sowing dates: March-April. In May you can sow directly into the ground.
When sowing in spring, preliminary stratification is required. To do this, the seeds are kept in the refrigerator for several days. Sow in mini greenhouses or boxes in a pre-prepared light garden mixture.
Preparation of garden mixture
Deciduous soil, garden soil and sand are mixed in equal proportions and sifted through a coarse sieve.
It is very important to pre-disinfect the soil in order to destroy possible pests and pathogens of fungal diseases. To do this, the prepared soil should be steamed with boiling water or kept in the cold for several days.
You can do it easier: buy ready-made soil for seedlings at a flower shop.
Aquilegia ‘Swan Mixed’
Sowing seeds
- Distribute the seeds evenly over the surface of the soil so as not to dive in the future.
- Cover with a thin layer of prepared soil and spray well with a spray bottle. To create a greenhouse effect, cover the crops with film.
Daily ventilation is required.
The best temperature for rapid emergence of sprouts: 16 – 19 degrees. Place the greenhouse in a bright place.
The waiting time for the first shoots is 3-4 weeks.
Monitor soil moisture and spray regularly.
Remember: one missed watering can destroy tender seedlings. When over-watered, fungal diseases are possible. With thickened seedlings, plants dive into separate cups when two separate leaves are formed
In early June, seedlings are planted in open ground. Plants bloom the following summer.
Note to gardeners: all parts of the plant are poisonous.
Columbine feels best in slightly shaded areas, but can also grow in full sun. In this case, the flowering duration is slightly shorter and the flowers are smaller.
Prefers moderately moist, loose soil. But it can also withstand drought, as it has a deep, well-developed root system. The plant overwinters without shelter.
Aquilegia has more than 100 species, growing mainly in the northern regions. About 40 are used in culture. Today, flower shops offer a wide selection of aquilegia varieties that can satisfy the most demanding gardener.
But before making a choice, you need to study the pros and cons of each of them.
Aquilegia varieties
The main ones are the following.
Aquilegia "Winky"
This variety is intended not only for the garden, but also for potted culture. Plants are characterized by their small size and compact shape. A distinctive feature of the variety is that the flower cups look up rather than down. Flowering is very abundant and long lasting. Easily propagated by seeds sown in nutritious, well-drained soil.
The first shoots appear after 4-5 weeks at a temperature of 23 degrees. The optimal growing temperature is 14-18 degrees. It is possible to sow in open ground; for this, the seeds are first kept in the refrigerator for two weeks. Moisture-loving. It is advisable to plant in partial shade, but can also grow in sunny areas.
Aquilegia Winky
Mr Scott Eliot
Tall variety, with flowers of various colors. It produces flower stalks about 80 cm high. It has large flowers (8-10 cm). Used for cutting. Winters well. Care consists of regular weeding, watering and fertilizing.
Sowing: in autumn in open ground or in spring by seedlings. The variety is unpretentious.
Nora Barlow
A very old variety. It was named after Charles Darwin's grandmother.
It reaches a height of 60-80 cm, 50 cm in diameter. Characterized by double flowers, bright pink with white tips, 4-6 cm in diameter, with spurs. Loves semi-shaded places with moderate moisture. The soils are light and nutritious.
Sowing in autumn in October in open ground or in March - April for seedlings, after preliminary stratification. Blooms in the second year.
Aquilegia ‘Nora Barlow’, photo flower
Aquilegia ‘Nora Barlow’, general view
Columbine
Variety 60-70 cm high. Various colors and shades. Unpretentious. Grows in shade and sun. Sowing seeds and agricultural technology are standard. Blooms in the second year. It can grow in one place for 4-5 years, after which it loses its decorative effect. It is recommended to replace with young seedlings from under the plant itself.
Aquilegia gigantea Mac Cana
Plants of this species can reach a meter in height, flowers - up to 10 cm in diameter, which are collected in paniculate inflorescences. Flowering is long lasting. Winters well and does not require shelter. It is highly decorative and hardy. Reproduction and agricultural technology are standard. When propagated by seed, it blooms in the second year.
Aquilegia McKana Giant
All types and varieties of aquilegia are perfectly propagated by seeds. There are no particular difficulties here. It is important to follow simple agrotechnical rules.
The best results are obtained when sowing fresh seeds in winter: here germination is better and the seedlings are stronger.
If there are already flowering specimens of the catchment area on the site, great! Plant successfully reproduces by self-sowing, and each time new color combinations and different subspecies are obtained.
Purchased seeds do not always have good germination and the varieties are not 100% consistent, but nevertheless you need to purchase seeds from reputable specialized stores to minimize the risk.
The plant is so beautiful and has many varieties that you need to try, experiment, invest work, time and love - and the result will only please you.
Propagation of aquilegia vegetatively
There are two more ways to propagate aquilegias - by dividing the bush and cuttings.
Dividing the bush
This method is most often used when it is necessary to preserve the varietal qualities of the plant. Specimens that have reached 3 years of age are suitable for this. You need to carefully dig up the plant so as not to damage the roots.
Mandatory: to avoid infection, rinse with water. Thoroughly disinfect the dividing tool.
Carefully cut the root into two halves so that approximately the same number of growth points and root branches remain on each of them. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed charcoal. And immediately plant them in prepared holes, covering them with loose soil. Water generously.
In order for the plants to take root, regular watering is necessary without overwatering.
The best time for this procedure is early spring or late summer.
Cutting method
Also used in the case of particularly valuable varieties. For this in April, young cuttings break off from the mother plant together with the “heel” and sits in the washed river sand. It would not be superfluous to treat with a root formation stimulator.
Rooting occurs within 30-40 days. All this time, the cuttings need shading and regular moistening.
By the end of summer, young plants can be planted in a permanent place.
Video consultation
Find out how best to propagate aquilegia in one of the most beautiful videos on the topic.
Loading...