Buy soldering station IK-650 PRO in installments/in parts
IK-650 PRO is not a dream, but a reality. Implementing a program for the availability of high-quality soldering technology, TERMOPRO tried to split the purchase of a BGA repair station into several small and quite feasible steps.
Option #1
Buy IR-650 in installments - pay 50%, and your new infrared soldering station will earn the rest, and we will wait a little.
The conditions are simple:
- The desire and ability to honestly and on time fulfill your obligations under the supply contract.
- The organizational and legal form of the enterprise is individual entrepreneur or LLC.
- Business registration for at least six months.
- Confirmed availability of a service point or other premises.
- No tax arrears, court penalties, or bankruptcy or liquidation decisions.
- Prepayment 50%, and the rest in installments over 6 months in equal installments without %.
Before making a decision, we ask you to properly assess your capabilities again. Remember the simple rule of payback - you must be guaranteed at least 10 BGA re-solderings per month plus income from other types of service work.
Option No. 2
IK-650 PRO is modular equipment - start by purchasing an NP 34-24 PRO heating table with a TP 2-10 KD PRO regulator, and you will immediately receive a huge advantage: you will have access to uniform heating of boards without deformation, and the BGA temperature will now be under your control. Start earning money and you will quickly acquire the remaining blocks.
Option #3
The secondary market is also a way out. TERMOPRO provides a guarantee, technical support and consumables for the entire fleet of IK-650 PRO stations, except stations from the “black list” .
Before purchasing, it will be useful to find out who was the first owner of the IR-650 PRO and be sure to check the availability of serial numbers (they are pasted on the bottom of the thermostats). Report them to TERMOPRO for authorization. Only then agree to the deal and never pay in advance , cases of fraud have become more frequent. When you see a live station, check the correspondence between paper serial numbers and electronic numbers.
Software application "TERMOPRO-CENTER"
The TERMOPRO IR-650 PRO infrared soldering station works really well. This is largely due to the multifunctional software application “TERMOPRO-CENTER”. The main difference between the IR-650 PRO and other infrared soldering stations is the fabulous soldering capabilities in completely non-fabulous environmental conditions.
"TERMOPRO-CENTER" provides automatic thermal profiling of BGA soldering with temperature feedback on the printed circuit board. BGA soldering algorithms, with several degrees of protection, are designed in such a way that nothing overheats, even with operator errors.
The Thermopro-Center application solves the problem of maintaining high reliability and ease of operation, as well as guaranteeing repeatability of the soldering process with maximum accuracy with optimal flexibility of process equipment.
The ThermoPro-Center software package contains the answer to almost any technological situation; the maximum possible number of “hard-wired” functions are implemented using ThermoPro tools.
The program, armed with equipment, without exaggeration, is a powerful not only production, but also a research tool. The tools contained in it can be used both for the implementation of the thermodynamic soldering process, and for its fixation, visualization, analysis and adaptation to environmental conditions.
For small-scale and single assembly of circuit boards, the infrared soldering station IK-650 PRO provides a double advantage. You get in your hands not only the ability to solder BGAs and other complex microcircuits, but also an excellent tool for group soldering of SMD components onto printed circuit boards using a thermal profile. The quality of soldering is ensured at the level of chamber and conveyor reflow furnaces, and even in feedback mode on the temperature of the board. (you can solder right away with virtually no setup, naturally with a little practice).
Download the Termopro-Center application and other useful information
Delivery set of infrared soldering station IK-650 PRO
| MODULE NAME |
PURPOSE OF THE MODULE |
||
| TERMOPRO - CENTER | multifunctional software application for controlling the IR station IK-650 PRO | ||
| 1,2 | IKV-65 PRO | upper heater of the IR station on a movable stand | |
| 3 | laser | laser pointer for aiming at the center before soldering BGA | |
| 4 | aperture | replaceable diaphragms for the upper heater of the IR station limit the heating zone of the printed circuit board (holes 30x30, 40x40, 50x50, 60x60 mm). | |
| 5 | IR 1-10 KD PRO | The thermostat provides temperature control of the upper heater of the IR station and control of the temperature of the printed circuit board | |
| 6 | PDSH-300 | hinged clamp for installing a temperature sensor on a printed circuit board | |
| 7 | TD-1000 (3 pcs.) | external thermal sensor for monitoring the temperature of the printed circuit board when soldering BGA | |
| 8 | NP 34-24 PRO | two-zone wide-format heating table for uniform heating of printed circuit boards. The IR station IK-650 PRO can be equipped with other thermal tables of the NP and IKT series, depending on the task | |
| 9 | TP 2-10 AB PRO | a two-channel thermostat provides control of the temperatures of zones of the NP 34-24 PRO thermostat (the thermostat can be replaced with TP 2-10 KD PRO, with a built-in board temperature measurement channel) | |
| 10 | FSM-15, FSK-15 (10 pcs. each) |
You can choose an individual configuration for the IR station by retrofitting it:
video camera,
video installer,
a thermotable of a different size,
3-channel temperature meter,
frame board holder
Connection diagram for infrared soldering station IK-650 PRO
Other board heating systems for IR Station
The infrared soldering station can be equipped with different board heaters to suit your needs.
An infrared station, equipped with bottom heating, is excellent equipment for repairing televisions, laptops, computers, of course, it is widely used as equipment for repairing electronics, and it is also modern equipment for repairing automobile units and CNC machines.
Additional devices and accessories for the IR Station
 |
The device expands the capabilities of the IK-650 PRO infrared soldering station for monitoring the temperature of the board. THERMOSCOPE is certified as a measuring instrument for military purposes. (manufactured by TERMOPRO) |
 |
BGA stencils The BGA reballing kit is a necessary addition to an infrared soldering station. The set includes a mandrel and 130 BGA stencils (made in China) |
 |
Fixture for direct heated BGA stencils. Fixes stencils from 8 x 8 mm to 50 x 50 mm. Clamping key included. |
|
The holder is convenient for soldering BGAs on small and medium-sized boards (manufactured by TERMOPRO) |
|
 |
PK-40, PK-50, PK-60 3D IR ray concentrators An infrared soldering station can have even better performance if 3D concentrators are used instead of flat diaphragms. (manufactured by TERMOPRO, the product is patented)
|
 |
Additional 45° diaphragms for the upper heater of the IR station, (manufactured by TERMOPRO) |
Radio amateurs sooner or later have to deal with soldering elements using an array of balls. The BGA soldering method is used everywhere in mass production of various equipment. For installation, an infrared soldering iron is used, which connects parts in a non-contact manner. Ready-made modifications are expensive, and cheaper analogues do not have sufficient functionality, so it is possible to make a soldering iron at home.
Description of the IR soldering process
The operating principle of an infrared soldering station is to influence the element with strong waves of 2-7 microns in length. A device for soldering with homemade IR soldering stations, both homemade and purchased, consists of several elements:
- Bottom heater.
- The upper heater is responsible for the main effect on materials.
- Board holder design placed on the table.
- Temperature controller consisting of a programmable element and a thermocouple.
The wavelength directly depends on the temperature indicators of the energy source. Materials in various forms are soldered using a do-it-yourself IR station; there are basic parameters for energy transfer, opacity, reflection, translucency and transparency. Before making an IR soldering station with your own hands, you need to understand that there are some disadvantages of these systems:
- Different degrees of energy absorption by components lead to uneven heating.
- Each board, due to its different characteristics, requires the selection of temperatures, otherwise the components will overheat and fail.
- The presence of a “dead zone” where infrared energy does not reach the desired object.
- A prerequisite for protecting the surfaces of other elements from evaporation of fluxes.
Heating occurs due to heat transfer to the circuit board. The thermal effect of the infrared station occurs on top of the part; the temperature is not enough, so the design involves heating the lower part. The lower part consists of a heat table; the soldering process can be carried out using calm infrared radiation or air flow.
Professional equipment is quite expensive; cheaper analogues do not have sufficient functionality. To save money and perform the necessary operations with BGA controllers, it is possible to make an infrared soldering station with your own hands. Assembly is possible from materials available on the market and scrap materials. The design is a thermotable made from an old lamp, equipped with halogen lamps. The controller and upper heater are purchased on the market or assembled from old spare parts.
The heating table will require reflectors, halogen lamps placed in a casing made of profile or sheet metal. When making an infrared soldering station with your own hands, you should stick to drawings that you can develop yourself or borrow from other artists. The housing must be equipped with a place for a thermocouple, which transmits information to the controller to prevent sudden temperature changes and excessive heating of the material.
Assembling an IR soldering station involves homemade structures in the form of fasteners from a tripod. The temperature of the heating unit is controlled by a second thermocouple. It is installed in parallel with the heater, the tripod is fixed to the panel in such a way that the IR element can be moved above the surface of the heating table. The board is located 2-3 cm above the halogen lamps, in the body of the thermal table. Fastening is done with brackets; for manufacturing it is possible to use an unnecessary aluminum profile.
Making a blowtorch with your own hands will first require a housing. To cool the system, the installation of one powerful or several coolers is required; it is advisable to choose the material from galvanized steel. After complete assembly, the system is adjusted by running the circuit and debugging the device.
Bottom heating can be made in several ways, but a much better option is to use halogen lamps. A rational solution is to install lamps with a total power of 1 kW or more with your own hands. Thresholds are installed on the sides of the structure to secure the board. The materials for soldering are installed on the channel; for smaller parts, substrates or clothespins are used.
It is known that it is impossible to make an upper heater of suitable quality with your own hands. To achieve the best results in the IR soldering process, it is necessary to use ceramic heating elements. For And For a DIY infrared soldering station, the best option is to use an ELSTEIN heater. The manufacturer shows the best results; the emission spectrum is ideal for replacing BGA boards and other parts. It is not recommended to save on purchasing an upper heater when assembling a soldering station with your own hands, because... When working with a low-quality tool, damage to the board or the assembled structure may occur.
The design for top heating is possible from a homemade frame. It is enough to have height and width adjustment for comfortable work on a home-made infrared soldering station. A thermocouple is attached to the tripod to control the temperature.
The controller housing is sized according to the parts being installed. A suitable option may be a piece of sheet metal that can be easily cut with metal scissors. The control unit also houses fans, various buttons, as well as a display and the controller itself. Arduino acts as a controller; the functionality is quite sufficient for soldering BGA circuits with your own hands.
Parts for a homemade device
Before assembling any equipment with your own hands, you need to prepare materials and tools. For an infrared soldering iron you will need:
- A set of halogen lamps, the number of which depends on the shape of the future lower heater of the soldering station, the optimal number is selected in the range from 4 to 6 pieces.
- Ceramic infrared head with a power of at least 400 watts for the top heater.
- Shower head hose for wires, aluminum corners.
- Steel wire, fastening element from an old camera or table lamp for making a tripod.
- Arduino controller, 2 relays and thermocouples, as well as a power supply with a 5 volt output, which can be made from a mobile phone charger.
- Screws, connectors and additional peripherals.
During the assembly process, you will need drawings, which can be disassembled with basic knowledge of electronics.
Application and device
An infrared soldering iron is used mainly when there is no access to replaceable components. It is used when replacing small parts; the main advantage is the absence of carbon deposits and other deposits, as when working with a conventional soldering iron, as well as the low possibility of damaging adjacent elements. For home use, it is possible to make a soldering iron with your own hands using a car cigarette lighter.
The device operates on a 12-volt power supply; this voltage can be obtained by using a converter or an unnecessary power supply for a computer.
Manufacturing
Before assembling the soldering station, the heating element is removed from the cigarette lighter body. Power wires are connected to the power contacts; insulated copper wire can be connected to the central wire. Making a soldering iron is not difficult; it is enough to insulate the connection at a distance from the heating element; it is possible to use heat-shrinkable tubing.
The body is made of refractory material. It is possible to use a non-working soldering iron or purchase a piece of steel. It is necessary to ensure that the wires do not touch each other. It is important to understand that this type of device is used for unimportant work, since temperature thresholds and other parameters are not controlled.
Price: $2.93
An infrared soldering station is a device for soldering microcircuits in a BGA package. If what you read doesn’t tell you anything, you probably shouldn’t go to the cat. There are arduinos, graphs, programming, ammeters, screws and blue electrical tape.
and not, but a device that is at least minimally able to support thermal profiles according to the graph found on the network: 
3. The control device will be a personal computer. First, stand-alone heater controllers are not within the budget. Secondly, the computer is already on the desktop and is always turned on during repairs, because it is an oscilloscope and a microscope and a datasheet reader.
Materials and components
To do this, we purchased online:
- 2 pcs.
- 2 pcs.
- 2 pcs.
Additionally, the following were purchased offline:
Linear halogen lamps R7S J254 1500W - 9 pcs.
Linear halogen lamps R7S J118 500W - 3 pcs.
R7S cartridges - 12 pcs.
The following were pulled out of the trash in the garage:
Docking station from some antediluvian Compaq laptop - 1 pc.
Tripod from a Soviet photo enlarger - 1 pc.
Power and signal wires, an Arduino Nano, and WAGO terminal blocks were found in a home storage room.
Bottom heater.
We arm ourselves with a grinder and cut off everything unnecessary from the docking station.
We attach cartridges to a sheet of metal.
We connect the sockets according to the 3s3p scheme, install the lamps, and hide them in the housing.
The search for material for the reflector took a long time. I didn't want to use foil because I suspected it wouldn't last long. It was not possible to use thicker sheet metal due to difficulties in processing it. A survey of familiar employees of industrial enterprises and a visit to non-ferrous metal purchase points did not yield any results.
In the end, I was able to find sheet aluminum that was slightly thicker than foil, which was ideal for me.
Now I know exactly where to look for such sheets - from printers. They attach them to the drums in their cars, either to transfer paint, or for something else. If anyone knows, tell me in the comments.
Bottom heater with installed reflector and grille. Instead of a grille, it is more correct to use, but it is not at all budget-friendly, like everything with the “Professional” sticker.
Shines a beautiful orange light. It doesn’t burn your eyes, you can look at the light completely calmly.
Consumes about 2.3 kW.
Upper heater
The design idea is the same. The cartridges are screwed with self-tapping screws to the cover of the computer power supply. A reflector bent from an aluminum sheet is attached to it. Three five hundred watt halogens are connected in series.
It also glows orange.
Consumes about 250 watts.
Control circuit
An infrared station is an automatic machine with two sensors (board thermocouple and chip thermocouple) and two actuators (lower heater relay and upper heater relay).
It was decided that all the heating power control logic would be implemented on a PC. Arduino will only be a bridge between the station and the PC. I received the parameters for PWM control of the heaters from the PC - set them - sent the temperature of the thermocouples to the PC, and so on in a circle.
Arduino expects messages like SETxxx*yyy* on the serial port, where xxx is the power of the upper heater in percent, yyy is the power of the lower heater in percent. If the received message matches the template, the PWM coefficients for the heaters are set and the OKaaabbbcccddd message is returned, where aaa and bbb are the installed power of the upper and lower heaters, ccc and ddd are the temperature received from the upper and lower thermocouples.
A “real” hardware PWM microcontroller with a sampling frequency of several kilohertz is not applicable in our case, since a solid-state relay cannot turn off at an arbitrary point in time, but only when the alternating voltage passes through 0. It was decided to implement our own PWM algorithm with a frequency of about 5 hertz. At the same time, the lamps do not have time to go out completely, although they flicker noticeably. In this case, the minimum duty cycle, at which there is still a chance to capture one period of the mains voltage, turns out to be 10%, which is quite enough.
When writing the sketch, the task was to refuse to set delays using the delay() function, since there is a suspicion that at the moment of delays, data from the serial port may be lost. The algorithm turned out to be as follows: in an endless loop, the presence of data from the serial port and the value of the software PWM time counters are checked. If there is data from the serial port, we process it; if the time counter has reached the PWM switching values, we carry out actions to turn the heaters on and off.
#include
Application for computer.
Written in Object Pascal in the Delphi environment. It displays the state of the heaters, draws a temperature graph and has a built-in primitive modeling language, more reminiscent of some Verilog in philosophy than, for example, Pascal. A “program” consists of a set of “condition - action” pairs. For example, “when the lower thermocouple reaches a temperature of 120 degrees, set the power of the lower heater to 10%, and the upper heater to 80%.” This set of conditions implements the required thermal profile - heating rate, holding temperature, etc.
The app has a timer that ticks once per second. Based on a timer tick, the function sends the current power settings to the controller, receives back the current temperature values, draws them in the parameters window and on the graph, calls the procedure for checking logical states, and then goes to sleep until the next tick.
Assembly and test run.
I assembled the control circuit on a breadboard. Not aesthetically pleasing, but cheap, fast and practical.
The device is finally assembled and ready to launch.
A run on the test board revealed the following observations:
1. The power of the bottom heater is incredible. The temperature graph of a thin laptop board shoots up like a candle. Even at 10% power, the board confidently heats up to the required 140-160 degrees.
2. The power of the lower heater is worse. It is possible to heat the chip even to a temperature of “low +50 degrees” only at 100% power. Either it will have to be redone later, or let it remain as a protection against the temptation to underheat the bottom.
Buying a chip on Aliexpress.
There are two types of bridges 216-0752001 on sale. Some are declared as new and cost from $20 each. Others are listed as "used" and cost $5-$10 each.
There are many opinions among repairmen regarding used chips. From categorically negative (“bugger, come to me, I have a pile of used bridges right under the table after resoldering, I’ll sell them to you inexpensively”) to cautiously neutral (“I plant them sometimes, they seem to work fine, returns, if there are any, are not much more often than new ones").
Since my repairs are ultra-budgetary, it was decided to install a used chip. And to be on the safe side in case of a trembling hand or a faulty copy, a lot “2 pieces for 14 dollars” was found.
Chip removal
We install the board on the bottom heating, attach one thermocouple to the chip, the second to the board away from the chip. To reduce heat loss, cover the board with foil, with the exception of the window for the chip. We place the upper heater above the chip. Since the chip has already been replanted, we load a self-invented profile for lead solder (heating the board to 150 degrees, heating the chip to 190 degrees).
Everything is ready to start.
After the board reached a temperature of 150 degrees, the upper heater automatically turned on. Below, under the board, you can see the heated filament of the lower halogen.
Around 190 degrees the chip “floated”. Since the vacuum tweezers did not fit into the budget, we hook it with a thin screwdriver and turn it over.
Temperature chart during dismantling:
The graph clearly shows the moment the upper heater is turned on, the quality of stabilization of the board temperature (yellow large wavy line) and the chip temperature (red small ripples). The red long “tooth” downwards means the thermocouple is falling from the chip after it is turned over.
Soldering a new chip
Due to the responsibility of the process, there was no time to take photographs or take screenshots. In principle, everything is the same: we go over the nickels with a soldering iron, apply flux, install the chip, install thermocouples, work out the soldering profile, and with a slight wobble we make sure that the chip has “floated.”
Chip after installation:
It can be seen that it sat more or less straight, the color has not changed, and the textolite is not bent. The prognosis for life is favorable.
With bated breath we turn on:
Yes! The motherboard started up. I re-soldered the first BGA in my life. Moreover, it was successful the first time.
Approximate cost estimate:
Bulb J254: $1.5*9=$13.5
Bulb J118: $1.5*3=$4.5
Cartridge r7s: $1.0*12=$12.0
Thermocouple: $1.5*2=$3.0
MAX7765: $2.5*2=5.0
Relay: $4*2=$8.0
Chips: $7*2=$14.0
Total: $60 minus the remaining spare chip.
The laptop was assembled, a 40 gigabyte hard drive found in the table was added to it, and the operating system was installed. To prevent similar incidents in the future, using k10stat, the processor core supply voltage is reduced to 0.9. Now, with the most severe use, the processor temperature does not rise above 55 degrees.
The laptop was installed in the dining room as a movie library for the youngest member of the family, who refuses to eat without his favorite cartoons.
Additional Information
Sooner or later, a radio mechanic involved in the repair of modern electronic equipment is faced with the question of purchasing an infrared soldering station. The need has arisen due to the fact that modern elements are massively “throwing their hooves away”; in short, manufacturers of both small and large integrated circuits are abandoning flexible leads in favor of patches. This process has been going on for quite some time.
Such chip packages are called BGA - Ball grid array, in other words - an array of balls. Such microcircuits are mounted and dismantled using a non-contact soldering method.
Previously, for not very large microcircuits it was possible to get by with a hot-air soldering station. But large GPU graphics controllers cannot be removed and installed with a thermal air blower. Maybe just warm it up, but warming it up doesn’t give long-term results.
In general, closer to the topic.. Ready-made professional infrared stations have exorbitant prices, and inexpensive 1000 - 2000 green ones do not have enough functionality, in short, you still have to add them. Personally, for me, an infrared soldering station is a tool that you can assemble yourself and to suit your needs. Yes, I don’t argue, there are time costs. But if you approach the assembly of the IR station methodically, you will get the desired result and creative satisfaction. So, I have planned for myself that I will work with boards measuring 250x250 mm. For soldering TV Main and computer video adapters, possibly tablet PCs.
So, I started with a blank slate and a door from an old mezzanine, screwing 4 legs from an ancient typewriter to this future base.
Using approximate calculations, the base turned out to be 400x390 mm. Next, it was necessary to roughly calculate the layout based on the sizes of the heaters and PID controllers. Using this simple “felt-tip pen” method, I determined the height of my future infrared soldering station and the bevel angle of the front panel:
Next, let's take on the skeleton. Everything is simple here - we bend the aluminum corners according to the design of our future soldering station, secure it, and tie it together. We go to the garage and bury our heads in DVD and VCR cases. I do a good job of not throwing it away - I know it will come in handy. Look, I’ll build a house out of them :) Look, they build from beer cans, from corks, and even from ice cream sticks!
In short, you can’t imagine a better cladding than equipment covers. Sheet metal is not cheap.
We run to the shops in search of a non-stick baking sheet. The baking tray must be selected according to the size of the IR emitters and their number. I went shopping with a small tape measure and measured the sides of the bottom and the depth. To questions from sellers like: “Why do you need pies of strictly specified sizes?” He answered that the inappropriate size of the pie violates the overall harmony of perception, which does not correspond to my moral and ethical principles.
Hurray! The first parcel, and it contains especially important spare parts: PIDs (what a scary word) The decoding is also not simple: Proportional-Integral-Differential controller. In general, let’s understand their setup and operation.
Next is the tin. This is where we had to work hard with the DVD covers so that everything would turn out smoothly and solidly, we’re doing it for ourselves. After adjusting all the walls, you need to cut the necessary holes for the FIDs on the front wall, for the cooler on the back wall and for painting - in the garage. As a result, the intermediate version of our IR soldering station began to look like this:
After testing the REX C-100 regulator designed for preheating (bottom heater), it turned out that it is not entirely suitable for my soldering station design, because it is not designed to work with solid-state relays, which it is supposed to control. I had to modify it to fit my concept.
Hurray! A parcel has arrived from China. Now it already contained the most basic wealth for building our infrared soldering station. Namely, these are 3 lower IR emitters 60x240 mm, the top 80x80 mm. and a pair of 40A solid-state relays. It was possible to take 25 amps, but I always try to do everything with a reserve, and the price was not much different..
The eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing. I try not to forget this old truth, just like about chicken, one grain at a time... What we have in the end - After installing the emitters in a baking tray, installing the solids on the radiator, blown by the cooler and connecting everything, we got something more or less similar to infrared soldering station.
Once the preheating thing started to come to an end and the first tests on heating, temperature retention and hysteresis were done, we could safely move on to the upper infrared emitter. It turned out to be more work than I initially expected. Several design solutions were considered, but in practice the last option turned out to be more successful, which I implemented.
Making a table to hold the board is another task that requires heating the skull. It is necessary that several conditions be met - uniform holding of the printed circuit board so that the board does not sag when heated. In addition, it was possible to move an already clamped board left or right. The board clamp should be both strong and give a little slack, since the board expands when heated. Well, the table should also have the ability to secure boards of different sizes. Not yet fully finished table: (no clothespins for the board)
Now the time has come for testing, debugging, adjusting thermal profiles for different types of microcircuits and solder alloys. During the fall of 2014, a decent number of computer video cards and television Main-boards were restored
Despite the fact that the soldering station seems complete and has proven itself to be excellent, in fact, several more important things are missing: Firstly, a lamp, or a flashlight on a flexible leg, Secondly, blowing the board after soldering, Thirdly, I initially wanted to make a selector for the lower heaters..
Of course, I didn’t write everything I wanted, because during assembly there were a lot of little things, problems and dead ends. But I recorded the entire construction process on video and now this is a full-fledged training video course:
DIY infrared soldering station
Sooner or later, a radio mechanic involved in the repair of modern electronic equipment is faced with the question of purchasing an infrared soldering station. The need has arisen due to the fact that modern elements are massively “throwing their hooves away”; in short, manufacturers of both small and large integrated circuits are abandoning flexible leads in favor of patches. This process has been going on for quite some time.
Such chip packages are called BGA - Ball grid array, in other words - an array of balls. Such microcircuits are mounted and dismantled using a non-contact soldering method.
Previously, for not very large microcircuits it was possible to get by with a hot-air soldering station. But large GPU graphics controllers cannot be removed and installed with a thermal air blower. Maybe just warm it up, but warming it up doesn’t give long-term results.
In general, closer to the topic. Ready-made professional infrared stations have exorbitant prices, and inexpensive 1000 - 2000 green ones do not have enough functionality; in short, you still have to finish them. Personally, for me, an infrared soldering station is a tool that you can assemble yourself and suit your needs. Yes, I don’t argue, there are time costs. But if you approach the assembly of the IR station methodically, you will get the desired result and creative satisfaction. So, I planned for myself that I would work with boards measuring 250x250 mm. For soldering TV Main and computer video adapters, possibly tablet PCs.
So, I started with a blank slate and a door from an old mezzanine, screwing 4 legs from an ancient typewriter to this future base.
Using approximate calculations, the base turned out to be 400x390 mm. Next, it was necessary to roughly calculate the layout based on the sizes of the heaters and PID controllers. Using this simple “felt-tip pen” method, I determined the height of my future infrared soldering station and the bevel angle of the front panel:
Next, let's take on the skeleton. Everything is simple here - we bend the aluminum corners according to the design of our future soldering station, secure it, and tie it together. We go to the garage and bury our heads in DVD and VCR cases. I do a good job of not throwing it away - I know it will come in handy. Look, I’ll build a house out of them :) Look, they build from beer cans, from corks, and even from ice cream sticks!
In short, you can’t imagine a better cladding than equipment covers. Sheet metal is not cheap.
We run to the shops in search of a non-stick baking sheet. The baking tray must be selected according to the size of the IR emitters and their number. I went shopping with a small tape measure and measured the sides of the bottom and the depth. To questions from sellers like “Why do you need pies of strictly specified sizes?” He answered that the inappropriate size of the pie violates the overall harmony of perception, which does not correspond to my moral and ethical principles.
Hurray! The first parcel, and it contains especially important spare parts: PIDs (what a scary word) The decoding is also not simple: Proportional-Integral-Differential controller. In general, let’s understand their setup and operation.
Next is the tin. This is where we had to work hard with the DVD covers so that everything would turn out smoothly and solidly, we’re doing it for ourselves. After adjusting all the walls, you need to cut the necessary holes for the PIDs on the front wall, for the cooler on the back wall and for painting - in the garage. As a result, the intermediate version of our IR soldering station began to look like this:
After testing the REX C-100 regulator designed for preheating (bottom heater), it turned out that it is not entirely suitable for my soldering station design, because it is not designed to work with solid-state relays, which it is supposed to control. I had to modify it to fit my concept.
Hurray! A parcel has arrived from China. Now it already contained the most basic wealth for building our infrared soldering station. Namely, these are 3 lower IR emitters 60x240 mm, the top 80x80 mm. and a pair of 40A solid-state relays. It was possible to take 25 amps, but I always try to do everything with a reserve, and the price was not much different.
The eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing. I try not to forget this old truth, just like about chicken, one grain at a time. What we have in the end - After installing the emitters in a baking tray, installing solid bodies on a radiator blown by a cooler and connecting everything, we got something more or less similar to an infrared soldering station.
Once the preheating thing started to come to an end and the first tests on heating, temperature retention and hysteresis were done, we could safely move on to the upper infrared emitter. It turned out to be more work than I initially expected. Several design solutions were considered, but in practice the last option turned out to be more successful, which I implemented.
Making a table to hold the board is another task that requires heating the skull. It is necessary that several conditions be met - uniform holding of the printed circuit board so that the board does not sag when heated. In addition, it was possible to move an already clamped board left or right. The board clamp should be both strong and give a little slack, since the board expands when heated. Well, the table should also have the ability to secure boards of different sizes. Not yet fully finished table: (no clothespins for the board)
Now the time has come for testing, debugging, adjusting thermal profiles for different types of microcircuits and solder alloys. During the fall of 2014, a decent number of computer video cards and television Main-boards were restored
Despite the fact that the soldering station seems complete and has proven itself to be excellent, in fact, several more important things are missing: Firstly, a lamp, or a flashlight on a flexible leg, Secondly, blowing the board after soldering, Thirdly, I initially wanted to make a selector for the lower heaters. There is another crazy idea))) I won’t talk about it for now....as soon as I implement it, I will definitely demonstrate this thing.
Of course, I didn’t write everything I wanted, because during assembly there were a lot of little things, problems and dead ends. But I have written down the entire construction process from the very beginning and I hope the end will come soon. It’s just that work on the station had to be put on hold due to work on the video course “Repairing LCD TVs and Monitors”
Initially, I planned to add these lessons to the course on TV, but the course on TV turned out to be large, and the video lessons on the soldering station amounted to 6 GB. + I need to do lessons on soldering BGAs and repairing video boards. I’m leading to the fact that there will be a separate independent course on assembling an infrared soldering station with your own hands. Which can be expected in the spring. In the meantime, I will finish the course on TV. There is very little left.
P.S. I think we can give the soldering station a name, I’m waiting for your suggestions in the comments.
Very interesting design. I’ve already got my eye on some ideas for my future IR soldering iron. Thank you.
But I still have a few questions:
1) Can you tell me the power of the upper and lower heaters?
2) Is this enough for lead-free soldering?
3) At what distance from the bottom heating is it best to place the soldered board?
4) Where does the PID for bottom heating get temperature data from? It is clear that from a thermocouple, but which one? Somehow with the same one as the PID for the top or with a separate one. If with one, then how can one connect it to two PIDs at once? If from two, then where is it installed and how is its contact with the board from below?
Thank you very much to the author for the useful article, the question is how did you connect these 3 bottom heaters, and is it possible to have a circuit diagram for the bottom of how you connected everything? (here is the mail)
well done, it turned out cool, it’s also very interesting how you connected the bottom heating, and Altec PC410 how to connect it? besides 2 pids 2 relays, something else is needed, and you said that you redid it with 100, what was redone there, if possible, email This email address is being protected from spambots. You must have JavaScript enabled to view it. Thank you
http://a-golubev.ru
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