Many gardeners are left with stumps after cutting down old trees. And the owners of the plots are faced with the choice of either uprooting and eliminating them, or somehow integrating the stumps into the design and continuing their useful existence.
There are quite a few recipes for the latter. The easiest way is to use a stump as a stand or pendant for flower pots. But let's look at a more interesting option, converting the stump itself into a large pot - a flowerbed, i.e. We will try to turn the stump into a log, fill it with soil, in which we will then plant flowers. As a result, we should get something like this beauty.
1. Find out the condition of the stump.
It makes sense to make a flowerbed only from wood that is not infested with pests. In some places it will even rot, and even have a hollow, this is not scary, and will even make the work easier. If the stump is favored by bark beetles and other beetles, it is better to eliminate it so as not to create a breeding ground for future problems in the garden.
2. Determine the size of the future flower bed and its configuration.
The simplest thing is to measure 5 cm from the edge on the cut and draw a line through these points - this will be the border of our pot.
3. Choose a method for removing the center of the stump.
But before this, the first thing we remember about safety precautions is to put on gloves and safety glasses - no matter how you work, there will be splinters!
So, you can select the center of the stump in different ways:
- If gasoline or electric saw is available you can saw through the center and then use a chisel to cut out the squares
- You can light a small fire in the center of the stump and thus burn out its center.
- There is an option with “chemistry”- to do this, drill holes in the center of the stump and add Epsom salt (we buy it in pharmacies) or saltpeter there and wait for several weeks.
After such an “attack” the wood will quickly collapse and all that remains is to clean up the edges of the “funnel”.
- But we will go the old-fashioned mechanical way.
- We take a pointed hoe and, moving in a circle, chop a hole in the center of the stump with its sharp end.
When the hole in the stump is larger, unfold the hoe and chop with the wide side.
Thus, we move towards the outlined line of the “pot” border. You need to deepen the hole in the stump by 10-20 cm, depending on its diameter and the plants that you are going to plant there.
When you are finished with the deepening, consider that the flowerbed is almost ready. Let's move on to the final steps.
4. We make drainage.
To prevent water from stagnating in the stump, care must be taken to drain it.
Using a drill with a diameter of at least 1.5 cm, we make several inclined holes from the center of the flowerbed to the ground surrounding the stump.
Next, you can pour drainage from pebbles at the bottom of the flowerbed, then the water will drain away more easily.
5. Fill the stump with soil and plant the plants.
On top of the drainage we pour nutritious soil more suitable for the flowers you have chosen and plant them. A mixture of 1 part compost and two parts soil has worked well.
That's it, all we have to do is water it and photograph the result of the work.
In conclusion, here are some tips and tricks for making a flower bed from a stump:
- To make it easier for you to remove the wood in the center of the stump, use a drill and a large drill bit. Frequent holes around the perimeter of the hole and in the center will significantly reduce the work time and effort required for chiselling.
- If you burn the center of the stump, you can use kerosene (not gasoline!!!) to saturate the wood, after which it will burn better.
- You can plant almost any plant in a stump, but of course, flowering plants like marigolds, geraniums, and begonias look more beautiful. Pansies, primroses and forget-me-nots look great in such natural pots. Daffodils, tulips and purslane grow well in stumps. Hanging nasturtium and petunia look especially impressive in the stump. You can make any height, both low and high plantings.
- You can extend the service life and make it easier to care for the flower bed stump using plastic pots. The manufacturing technology will not change, except that the recess in the stump needs to be adjusted to the size of the pot or tray.
- And finally, a very simple option with a portable stump - a decoy. To do this, we cut down the stump just above the ground and take the cut to the workshop, where, using a saw and all available tools, we make a large hole suitable for a pot, which we insert there. After which we return the stump to its original place – to be cut down. In this way, woodworking and subsequent operation and maintenance of the flowerbed can be greatly facilitated.
One type of paving with paving stones is circular paving. This technology is fundamentally no different from traditional methods of laying tiles and paving stones, but still has its own nuances. Paving stones or paving slabs have long been the most popular surfaces for paths near a house or cottage. Such paths in the garden look very beautiful, especially since they can be made in different colors. A properly made paving stone path will serve for a very long time without losing its hardness, color and attractiveness.
Paving paths: trenching and pouring a concrete base
It must be said right away that the preparation of the base for a future path is always carried out the same way, and does not depend in any way on how the tiles will be laid later.
Try to take into account all the specific features of the soil, its moisture and other factors.
Visually level the area or path and dig into the ground over the entire area to provide yourself with a place to pour concrete. In chernozem soils it is necessary to dig 15-25 centimeters; if the soil is hard, you can dig less deeply.
Direct preparation for paving should begin by compacting the subgrade to a solid, stable state. Depending on the composition of the soil, sometimes you can do without a concrete pad (in the case of sandy soil) if the path is only for pedestrians, but in this case it is better to compact the soil or roll it very well.
For paths and the area in front of the garage, two different technologies can be used, most suitable for each case.
1. For the paths, the next step will be the laying of storm drains (storm sewer pipes) and curbs, which we will install on the sides.
2. Pour a ten-centimeter layer of medium-sized crushed stone into the resulting hole. This is a base for tiles and at the same time excellent drainage.
3. Pour another five centimeters of sand on top, mixed with cement in a ratio of five to one. This is the underlying layer of paving stones. The mixture of sand and cement, which is used to fill the last layer before the tiles, is often called prancing. A concrete slab, if you decide to make one, needs to be covered with a layer of up to three centimeters.
4. We carry out another tamping, designed to identify weak points that need to be added immediately.
With the site everything is a little different.
1. So, having carefully leveled the resulting depression, I fill its bottom with a small layer of sand.
2. Then we pour a twenty-centimeter slab of concrete, and reinforced one at that, because a car will constantly drive here.
3. It is important to remember that it will be much neater if storm drains and curbs are not poured here in advance, but are installed as soon as the concrete begins to harden. And the basis is there, and everything turns out clean.
Any path or site must be planned so that the slope towards the storm drain is at least three percent, and the more prominent the planned surface, the greater the slope is better. Otherwise, there is no guarantee that there won’t be a large puddle at the site.
Paving with paving stones in a circle
Paving with paving stones or paving slabs is not difficult for anyone, but “straight” masonry looks boring. It’s much more fun when the path is lined with shapes, circles, for example.
However, paving paths in a circle has its own nuances.
- To beautifully lay out circles and other “smooth” shapes, you need an area, and a much larger one, near the path.
- You can lay out only parts of the circles, alternately adjacent to opposite sides of the path, and between them lay out the paving stones in a straight line. It turns out cute and original.
- Don't be afraid to trim the tiles - there are trims, but no more of them than during normal installation.
As for technology, everything is simple here:
1. Make a compass of the required size using available materials.
2. Draw a circle with it directly on the sand prepared for laying (don’t be alarmed if you guess the size only the third time).
You can do any other shapes in the same way - we measure, draw and lay them out inside. Only with circles you can come up with a bunch of designs, ornaments and color combinations. You can make the ornament with multi-colored rings or even waves placed one inside the other - it will turn out fun and impressive.
4. After all the stones are in place, they need to be covered thickly with sand so that all the seams become clogged. Then it’s all generously sprinkled with water, the cement in the substrate “sets” and the path/platform is ready.
Paving paths and areas in a circle is a creative process that requires accuracy and developed spatial thinking, but with the help of this technology you can create very interesting effects, thereby “revitalizing” the landscape of your site.
A dacha is not only a place to relax from the bustle of the city, but also a good opportunity to grow some of your own organic vegetables and berries. Some grow a little exclusively for the table, others grow a little more for winter storage. However, often striving for a high yield, we forget that the beds are not a second job, but a place of rest. Therefore, in order for growing vegetables and berries to truly bring pleasure, the garden beds at the dacha must not only be productive, but also comfortable and beautiful. Moreover, you can make such beds with your own hands from almost any materials.
When describing how to make garden beds at the dacha with your own hands, garden beds are often divided into types according to the material from which they are made. However, this approach does not reflect the functional and aesthetic capabilities of the beds. Therefore, it is more correct to start laying out the beds by determining their shape and location on the site. In this way, you can create a convenient and beautiful vegetable garden that can fit into a plot of any size.
Shape and location of beds on the site
For a small plot, it is good to organize beds in the corner of the plot. The beds will look great if you divide them according to a beam or radial pattern.
Fig.1.
Fig.2.
If the plot is large, then the beds can be laid out along the central path. Here you can make a circular or rectangular garden shape. By planting plants of various colors, for example, salads of various varieties, cabbage, pumpkin, the garden beds will look no worse than a flower bed.
Fig.3.
However, when making a composition from different types of vegetables, you should take into account the principle of their compatibility and be guided by the table below. Otherwise, it is unlikely that you will be able to get a high yield from the beds.
Fig.4.
Bed sizes
Returning to the beds, it should be said that the most important parameters of the beds are their height and width. The geometric dimensions of the beds have a direct impact on productivity, ease of plant care, protection of plants from freezing, ease of arrangement of beds and their appearance.
Width of beds
The width of the bed can be arbitrary, but is usually 80-90 cm. This width is enough for two or three rows of plants. A bed up to 90 cm wide will allow you to easily reach the center from any side. However, if the beds are located close to the fence, then it is advisable to make them no more than 50 cm wide. This will make caring for the plants much easier.
Height of beds
The height of the bed is also very important. Unlike the width of the bed, the height is a little more complicated. The fact is that in high beds the probability of perennial plants freezing is much higher than in low ones. This is due to the fact that the layer of snow that protects against freezing is always greater in a bed located at ground level, and snow falls earlier. In high beds the opposite is true. Therefore, it is advisable to make high beds for annual plants, and for perennial plants it is limited to a bed no more than 15 cm high.
Fig.5.
Raised beds are very convenient for growing annual plants. The main convenience is that you don’t have to bend down to the ground every time you need to pull out a weed or remove a stepchild. In a high bed, water will not stagnate and the soil will not become very compacted, and therefore there is no need for annual digging, but only loosening is sufficient. Having a high bed makes it much easier to organize a warm bed, which will allow you to harvest an early harvest. However, the height of the beds should not be more than 60 cm; an exception can be made only for growing low-growing plants, for example, lettuce, onions, parsley, etc.
Fig.6.
Warm beds
Having mentioned warm beds, a few words should be said about their structure. A warm bed consists of several layers. The bottom layer is thick branches, cardboard and other organic debris with a low decomposition rate. The middle layer is foliage, tops, hay, straw, etc. garden waste with an average rate of decomposition. The top layer is compost and soil. The thickness of each layer is approximately 20 cm. The lower two layers gradually rot and release heat. Therefore, the bed thaws much faster after winter and seedlings can be planted in it earlier. This is how an early harvest is achieved.
Fig.7.
Of course, a warm bed can be made without being high. However, in this case, instead of simply laying the above-described layers in a box (fencing the bed), you will first have to dig a small ditch, which will significantly complicate the work of constructing a warm bed. Plus, a high bed will provide good drainage, which is especially important when the groundwater level is high.
How and from what to make paths between the beds
When laying out beds and planning a vegetable garden, do not forget about the paths between the beds. Paths are not only a transport artery, but also a decoration for the garden. Good paths will create a feeling of neatness and harmony.
Paths between beds can be made in various ways. Often paths are made of paving slabs, crushed stone, or simply planted with lawn grass. Functionally, all types of paths are not much different, so here, first of all, you should be guided by your aesthetic preferences.
Fig.8.
Fig.9.
Having considered possible options for location on the site, shapes, types of beds and their sizes, we can move on to the question of choosing material for garden beds in the country. The most common materials when constructing beds are: wooden boards, brick or stone, slate and ready-made structures made of plastic and galvanized steel.
Materials for making beds
Board beds
Wooden boards for making beds are a favorite material. Making beds from boards is very simple and does not require any preparation or special tools. All you need is a nail saw and a hammer. Of course, the disadvantage of wood is its high tendency to rot, but this problem can be solved quite simply if the wood for making beds is pre-treated with an antiseptic. Thus, the bed can last 5, 10, or 15 years. If you choose oak or larch boards for the beds, then such a bed can last longer.
Beds from wooden boards can be made not only in rectangular shapes, but also in any other shape. If the bed has the shape of a rectangle, triangle or any other shape with corners, then you can make a bed by simply knocking the boards together with nails, with the boards positioned horizontally.
Fig. 10.
The required height of the bed is ensured by installing several tiers of boards.
Fig. 11.
If you need to make a rounded bed, then you can go in two ways: assemble a bed from short pieces of boards, placing them in a circle or installing the boards vertically. In both cases, the boards are connected in the same way using nails or self-tapping screws. Combinations of these methods are also possible.
Fig. 12.
If you have doubts about the reliability of protecting wooden beds from rotting using modern water-based antiseptics, then you can use traditional methods: treat the wood with hot drying oil or lay roofing material on the inside of the beds.
Brick and stone beds
Brick and natural stone are no less popular than wooden planks. Moreover, the service life of such beds is not limited. If the bed is of low height, then the brick as a fence for the bed is installed vertically or at an angle, and no additional preparation is required. In this way you can make a bed of any shape.
Fig. 13.
Raised beds made of brick are somewhat more difficult to make. In order to make a high bed of brick or stone, a foundation is needed. As a foundation, a concrete strip with a cross-section of approximately 20x20 cm is poured on a sand cushion 20 - 30 cm thick. It is advisable to reinforce the strip with a steel rod. The result is a strip foundation of shallow depth. Brick or stone is laid on the finished foundation.
Fig. 14.
When making high beds from brick, you should firmly decide on their shape and location on the site. High beds made of brick are a fundamental structure and it will be very difficult to move them after construction.
Slate beds
For most summer residents, the favorite material for building beds is slate. Indeed, slate is often available in abundance at the dacha, especially after the roof has been replaced. Naturally, it is simply impossible not to use this material, especially considering the fact that slate is durable, not afraid of moisture, and it is very easy to make such a simple structure as beds from it.
Slate beds can be made of any shape and size. If corrugated roofing slate is used, it is cut into pieces and dug into the ground vertically to a depth of 20 - 30 cm. When positioned vertically, the slate is more durable due to the presence of waves. For rectangular beds, slate can be used in any size. Round slate beds are made from small pieces.
Fig. 15.
You can purchase flat slate sheets especially for garden beds. When constructing beds, slate of this type is fastened together using metal corners. For structural rigidity with high beds, an additional corner is installed along the bed in increments of 1 - 1.5 m.
Fig. 16.
How to cut slate? When creating beds, slate will have to be used in different sizes. Cutting slate is very simple using a grinder with a stone wheel or a diamond wheel. There will be a lot of dust when cutting slate, so be sure to wear a protective mask and safety glasses.
Ready-made bed structures
Ready-made structures for fencing beds are no less popular. Two types are widespread: plastic and galvanized sheets. Plastic fencing for garden beds allows you to make it of any shape and size. Metal ones allow you to quickly make beds of any height.
Fig. 17.
Of course, it is difficult to make a round-shaped bed from ready-made metal structures, but simplicity and reliability are often paramount.
Fig. 18.
Fig. 19.
We considered all possible options for shapes and arrangement of bed materials. The solutions described are the simplest and will make your beds comfortable and beautiful. However, just as there is no limit to perfection, there is also no finite number of possible options for designing beds. Don't be afraid to experiment and use non-standard approaches, so your garden will be the best!
Correctly and beautifully stacked firewood is the key to a hot fire. In an ideal woodpile, they will not get wet, will not disappear, and will not lose their hot properties.
Dry firewood . If damp firewood is stacked, it will dry in the woodpile, and the combustion efficiency of such firewood will become much higher.
There are fewer problems with kindling. Dry wood ignites easily and simply in a stove or fireplace.
Is it possible to stack wet firewood? It’s possible, but when they dry out, slender stacks may become distorted. And a beautiful woodpile - to fall over.
We save useful space. Compact placement of firewood on the site will allow you to collect a fairly decent amount of it, while the chaotic method will be quite voluminous in appearance, but small in the amount of stacked firewood. If you need to store a large amount of firewood, only a woodpile will help.
Aesthetic moment. Plus - beautiful wood walls and woodpiles - a real decoration of the site, a full-fledged element of the landscape design of a dacha, village, or country house.
In other words, it’s worthwhile to stack the firewood correctly and beautifully. In the end, we will not only receive aesthetic pleasure from the sight of neatly stacked firewood, but also a lot of benefits during the heating season.
Parallel method of stacking firewood - in stacks
The idea is simple - you can lay each new layer parallel to the previous one.
In this case, the wall of firewood should touch the previous wall. those. When placing firewood in the second wall, push it all the way - its inner end should touch the previous wall.
Each wall is laid with a slight inward slope. This slope is achieved by selecting uneven firewood.
An outward slope is unacceptable, even slight. As you gain height, the external distortion will intensify and the entire wall will collapse.
We do not extend each wall to the top until we adjust the next one. For stability. that is, we simultaneously lay out several walls with steps.
It turns out very economically and clearly; a large amount of firewood can be placed on a relatively small piece of land.
Perpendicular method - cage
The firewood is laid perpendicular to the previous row.
If you plan to stack firewood in this way, it is advisable to cut it longer. Smooth firewood is naturally easier to stack.
Circular method
Firewood stacked in a circle dries well. Especially if you leave the ventilation columns of empty space inside the stack.
Ideally, piled firewood does not flow, but achieving such a density of the top layer of firewood is not easy - that’s why novice craftsmen usually cover the firewood with additional waterproof material.
We offer photos of beautiful woodpiles! From the photo you can easily understand how the firewood was stacked. There are usually no difficulties.
Stove heating of the house, solid fuel boilers, baths require a supply of high-quality, dry firewood, compactly stacked near the house in a woodpile. Orderly stacked firewood does not spoil, is always at hand, and does not spoil the appearance of the site. It is better to choose a storage location in advance, before the firewood is delivered. Unloaded nearby, you won’t have to carry them far. The chosen location must have good drainage; split wood does not store well in dirt. If firewood is used quickly, it is better to store it near the wall of the house; if long-term storage is planned, insects and rodents, which often hibernate among firewood, can find a loophole in the home.
Firewood with stakes - a simple solution
It is convenient to arrange a woodpile adjacent to the wall of a house, fence, or outbuilding. A layer of stones or bricks is laid between the firewood and the ground as an insulating layer. It is convenient to put fuel on a wooden pallet or a specially made grid of stakes and fittings. The stacked firewood is supported by stakes driven into the ground, forming a quadrangle. One of the ends of the stacked logs rests against a wall or fence, the other faces outward. The stakes that serve as support must be thick enough so as not to bend under the weight of firewood.
A kind of reinforcing reinforcement for the firewood shed is made using tree branches with forks: the forks are covered by stakes, and the branches are pressed against the next layer of firewood. Stability of the woodpile is also given by laying it not in a row, but alternately - in a checkered pattern. The rows are built up to the height of a wall or fence, and the firewood is covered on top with waterproof material - oilcloth, roofing felt, tin.
When a woodpile is formed along the fence, a few centimeters must be left between the firewood and the fence for ventilation. This secret will keep the firewood dry.
If long, strong stakes cannot be prepared, the method of stacking firewood can help maintain the stability of the storage area. In the corners of a rectangular firewood box, logs are placed in a cage, forming columns. Between them the firewood is stacked in a simple manner.
How to fold a round woodpile?
If the supply of firewood is very large or it is not possible to set up storage near the wall, you can put the firewood in a compact round woodpile in an open place. Folded correctly, it resembles a lush haystack. The beveled laying of logs ensures rainwater drainage. The round shape of wood storage has long been used in regions of Russia rich in wood that use stove heating.
In the USA, a similar method of laying firewood is also common; it is called Holz Hausen - “wooden house” from German. It is compact, convenient, compact. The latter quality is the main advantage of this type of woodpile - a lot of firewood can be stacked in a small area, it dries faster than in traditional storages, the stacking is durable, and the structure will not fall even under extreme wind loads. The beehive shape is considered by many to be more attractive than the traditional rectangle, and it is also fun to build.
For beginners, it is better not to make the first round woodpile too large in diameter. You need to choose a place for it that is sunny and well ventilated. Under the first row of firewood, a drainage base is made of gravel or a layer of tree bark. The correct radius will be provided by a cross made of long stakes.
Constructing the foundation
First, lay out the ring in a circle, empty in the center. It turns out to be a closed chain of chocks with their ends touching. The next layer, laid across the first, is tilted in the middle: adjacent logs or logs touch the side surface, the ends remain free.
The center is also empty; gradually it forms a pipe, which promotes good air exchange and drying of firewood. If the rows lose their internal slope due to the uneven thickness of the chocks, transverse supports are placed along the edge, like a ring supporting the edges of the first row. This will give the structure stability and stability.
Increasing the height
The stakes placed crosswise between the rows at the same height form the “floors” of the woodpile and support it. When the woodpile reaches a height of about a meter, you can throw logs in random order into the empty middle. Gravel will protect them from moisture, and loose laying will not impede air circulation. This inner layer makes the structure more stable and helps save space.
Advantages of the cylindrical shape:
- firewood dries quickly and evenly even in areas with short summers;
- the resulting circles are very stable; the pressure in the circle is even at each point, adjacent lumps support each other, and when laid correctly, the drying wood “sets” even more firmly;
- The cylinders look beautiful and use space efficiently, allowing a large amount of firewood to dry in a limited area.
The holz hausen ends with a top of the flattest chocks that form the roof. They can be covered on top with a layer of waterproof tree bark.
Another way to form a round woodpile is to use a high pole, buried in the center of the future circle, instead of a cross. It is so convenient to maintain the correct shape; the pole creates additional support for the central part of the structure.
The woodcutter's design formulates the rules for storing firewood: drainage under the bottom layer, good ventilation and heating by sunlight, a canopy or roof.
Woodshed - storage under the roof
If open storage of firewood is not suitable for you, then you should think about building a woodshed on your summer cottage - a structure with a roof. With the help of your imagination and available materials you can create a real masterpiece. You can see some of them in the photo:
Stove heating has a special winter magic. If the firewood is stacked and dried correctly, then using it will be a pleasure!
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