Crossbow use. How to make a crossbow with your own hands at home. "Centaur" by Hickory Creek

Despite its age, the crossbow is still able to compete well with some types of weapons. Unlike its ancestor, the bow, this design has an automatic arrow release system, thanks to which the shooter can concentrate on aiming without wasting energy on pulling the bowstring. Given the popularity of this weapon, many craftsmen are interested in how to make a crossbow with their own hands. To do this, you should take into account many nuances, know the design features of a modern crossbow, the types of such weapons, factors influencing the firing range, etc.

Before you make a crossbow with your own hands, you need to understand the features of this weapon. It is also called a crossbow or arrow thrower, which perfectly characterizes the features of its design. In simple terms, this is a bow equipped with a special mechanism for cocking and releasing the bowstring.

There is a full-fledged hammer here - a trigger, through which the shot is fired. Thanks to this innovation, the crossbow is superior to the traditional bow in many respects, namely:

  • lethal force;
  • shot range;
  • shooting accuracy.

However, in most cases, a crossbow is inferior to a bow in terms of rate of fire. To level out this drawback, special shortened arrows or bolts, and sometimes bullets, were used.

When the crossbow was used as a military weapon, there were enlarged prototypes that were installed on special machines. They were called arcbalists. At the moment, crossbows are used mainly in sports and hunting, being compact and easy to use.

Device Features


To make the stock, it is recommended to use wood material: ash, beech, birch, walnut, rosewood and even oak

The main part of the crossbow is the stock into which the arrow is placed. It is combined with the trigger mechanism.

A guide groove for bolts is installed in the upper part of the stock. At the end of the stock there is a stirrup and a cross. Wooden or steel shoulders are fixed to the latter.

The traditional trigger mechanism consists of a lever, a washer with a slot for the arrow shank and a retaining spring. Thus, when the trigger is pressed, the bowstring is released from the hook, transferring energy to the arrow.

At the moment, there are several types of triggers used in crossbows. The most popular of these is the pistol-type design.

What does a crossbow consist of?

Compared to a traditional bow, several elements have been added to the design of the crossbow. This weapon consists of the following parts:

  • bed;
  • trigger mechanism;
  • bowstring

If we are talking about a block crossbow, then its design also involves the presence of blocks - rollers designed to tension the bowstring.


On the left is a classic crossbow, on the right is a block model

Today, there are several types of crossbows. Regarding their purpose, such structures are divided into:

  1. Sports. The appearance and characteristics of such weapons directly depend on the sporting discipline in which they are used. As a rule, such designs are equipped with special aiming systems and various attachments designed to improve shooting accuracy.
  2. Hunting. Such crossbows require relative compactness with high power. Therefore, block-type models are most often purchased for hunting.
  3. Amateur. These are lightweight guns that are designed for target shooting and have relatively little power. Exact copies of antique crossbows are also produced, which, although they are combat prototypes, are most often used to decorate interiors and replenish collections.

Regarding the design, there are:

  1. Classic models. In this case, energy is accumulated directly in the arcs, after which it is transferred to the bowstring. The operating principle of such crossbows is similar to the simplest models of bows.
  2. Block. This is the most advanced type of this weapon. A special system of blocks in this case contributes to proper distribution of the load between the elements of the system. Thus, the power of such a crossbow increases, and its dimensions decrease.

The design of a block crossbow is particularly complex. Even the banal process of replacing a bowstring in this case requires professional intervention.

Depending on the type of projectile used, crossbows can be:

  1. Classic. In this case, we are talking about the use of special crossbow arrows or shortened “bolts” that increase the rate of fire of the weapon.
  2. Schneppers or balestres. A typical projectile in such weapons is a metal ball.

Model manufacturing technology


To make a bow, a car spring is used, and rollers (blocks) are used as a string (cable) fastening system.

Making a crossbow with your own hands will be somewhat more difficult than making a bow. The fundamental difference in this case is the presence of a stock and a trigger mechanism. However, if you have skills in working with hand tools, then you should not have any particular difficulties.

Material selection

Before you make a crossbow from wood, you need to learn how to choose and prepare the material correctly.

Wood has the best properties for making a crossbow. This is an indispensable material for creating a stock and bow, since the wood is easy to process, has good flexibility and is very durable. In addition to wood, various composites and spring metal are used in the manufacture of arches today. However, for DIY production, it will be easiest to use wood.

Of course, something more reliable and wear-resistant should be used for the trigger mechanism. That's why it is made of iron.

If you plan to make a crossbow, the tension force of which does not exceed 20 kg, then it is quite possible to use beech or other hard wood to turn the parts of the trigger mechanism.

To make the body of a crossbow, it is best to use the following types of wood:

  • poplar;
  • ash;
  • maple;
  • acacia.

The density of these rocks is quite sufficient to withstand significant loads exerted on the stock and bow of a crossbow. Soft types of wood such as pine and linden are absolutely not suitable for the manufacture of these parts.

Preparation of material


The wooden blank for the crossbow must be dried for a year

Due to the significant loads placed on the elements of the crossbow, it is not surprising that sooner or later they will fail. To prevent this from happening in the near future, it is necessary to use pre-prepared material in the production of the crossbow.

The wood should be collected wet and dried within a year. To make a bow and stock, you must select branches that meet the following characteristics:

  1. For a one-piece design of a stock with a butt, you should choose a branch at least a meter long. To make arcs, the length of the branch must be at least 180 cm.
  2. The diameter of the workpieces must be at least 10 cm.

Advice! Before drying the raw materials, the saw cuts should be protected with paint or varnish. Any glue can also be used for this. This approach is necessary so that the wood dries more slowly and more evenly. This will protect the workpiece from the appearance of internal cracks, which will significantly extend the service life of the crossbow.

After protecting the cut points, you need to do the following:

  1. The workpiece is sent to a dry place, protected from sunlight.
  2. It is advisable that the raw materials remain here for at least a year.
  3. Next, you should clean the workpiece from the bark, after which it should be kept in a dry place for another week.
  4. Now the log can be sawed in half, after drying for about a week.

Making shoulders


The simplest thing is to use ready-made bows for sports shooting

On the workpiece, you should choose the side that is characterized by thinner annual rings. As a rule, this is the northern side, on which the fibers are denser than in other parts. The bow or shoulders are made from this part.

The production of shoulders is carried out as follows:

  1. First, the middle is outlined, from which you should measure 2 cm in each direction to install the crossbow stock. This part of the bow should have maximum thickness.
  2. From the middle we begin to gradually cut off excess material, moving towards the edges. The workpiece should be thinned in this way on both sides.
  3. From time to time it is necessary to check the bending of the bows using a test bowstring. It is a strong rope with many loops. By placing a string on the bow, you can determine the degree of deflection and its uniformity. This way, the places where excess material should be removed are identified. This process continues until the product bends evenly on both sides.

How to handle knots

When preparing material, it is advisable to choose those branches that are as free as possible from knots and other defects. It should be understood that any large knot is a weak point in the structure. However, if you were unable to find a workpiece completely free of defects, it does not matter.

Important! Under no circumstances should you cut off knots before drying the material! Otherwise, the raw material may crack.

The removal of knots must be carried out already in the process of shaping the crossbow's shoulders. A well-sharpened knife is used for this. They should be cut in such a way that a protrusion about 1 mm high remains above the surface of the workpiece. Next, the defect is sanded with sandpaper.

Making a stock


The bed is made to suit you - for maximum comfort

After the arms of the weapon are ready, you should proceed to making the stock. To do this, you must follow these instructions:

  1. Initially, we select the location of the groove along which the arrow will move during the shooting process. This place must be perfectly level. Any notches or irregularities can disrupt the trajectory of the arrow, dampen some of the inertia, or even make the weapon unusable.
  2. Typically the gutter is about 30 cm long. It should be carefully hollowed out and sanded.
  3. Behind the chute it is necessary to cut a recess for the trigger mechanism. In the front part, grooves are created for installing the shoulders.

All wood cutting work should be performed with a special carpenter's knife or chisel.

Trigger

To understand how to make a trigger mechanism for a crossbow, you first need to understand the features of its design.

If you do not plan to make a powerful weapon, but want to create a light and compact crossbow, then the arrow release mechanism can be made of wood. Beech or oak wood is used for this. If we are talking about weapons with a tension force of more than 20 kg, then the parts of this mechanism should be made of metal.

The most primitive trigger mechanism is called a “nut”. Its design is extremely simple. This element is a cylinder and consists of the following elements:

  • on one side there is a trigger stop;
  • at the opposite end there is a bowstring hook.

Powerful crossbows use an improved trigger system. It provides a light trigger pull under high load conditions.

Crossbow assembly


Advice: don’t worry about making arrows, they are much easier to buy

All that remains is to connect the manufactured elements together. Initially, it is necessary to install the trigger mechanism in the stock. To do this, a seat of a certain size must be machined into it. Next, the shoulders are installed. They can be either a solid arc or two separate elements. They are attached to the base using a special furniture glue, which will ensure reliable adhesion of the elements.

At the last stage, the bowstring is pulled over the shoulders. A strong nylon rope is most often used as a bowstring. It is attached to the ends of the bow, and the crossbow is ready for its first shot.

Making fiberglass arms

If you want to make a really powerful crossbow, then the arms of this design would be best made from fiberglass. Such a bow will not only be stronger, but also more durable than a wooden one. The manufacturing instructions are extremely simple:

  1. We take Kevlar or fiberglass, cutting it into strips. To make the shoulders for an average crossbow, about 40 strips are required.
  2. We glue the resulting elements with epoxy resin, tightly connecting them to each other.
  3. After gluing, it is necessary to place the resulting workpiece under the press. The best option for this are flat boards, between which the shoulders are placed, clamped with clamps.
  4. The structure hardens in 24 hours, provided that the workpiece is in a warm room.
  5. After the shoulders have completely hardened, their protruding edges should be trimmed with a knife and sanded with sandpaper.

Epoxy adhesive should be prepared in such a way that the thickener content in it is minimal. Experts advise using no more than 10% thickener.

To make curly arches, you need to make a special mold for the press. It is made from plywood, which bends after pre-soaking.

How to make a mini crossbow?


Shooting from a mini crossbow will be quite interesting, because... sharp bamboo skewers can be used as arrows, capable of piercing even cardboard

To shoot a crossbow, it is not at all necessary to acquire skills in working with wood, purchase the necessary tools and procure raw materials, waiting a year to start work. The current model can be made from ordinary corrugated cardboard. Naturally, such a crossbow will not be suitable for sporting or hunting purposes, but it will be just right for target shooting.

The production of such a prototype involves several stages:

  1. First we make the shoulders. To do this, you need to cut out several identical blanks from corrugated cardboard, which are fastened together into a single structure. Thus, the necessary rigidity is created, because this part of the crossbow will bear the maximum load.
  2. Then cut out the trigger and locking mechanism from cardboard. They are also made from several layers glued together. To create additional rigidity, it is necessary to reinforce these structures with ice cream sticks.
  3. The main part of the crossbow is represented by the stock, just like in its combat prototypes. This design consists of two identical parts that are connected to each other by means of jumpers.
  4. We insert the trigger mechanism inside the stock and glue the main part of the crossbow.
  5. Now you need to attach the shoulders to the base. This should be done very carefully to avoid distortion, otherwise the accuracy of a shot from such a crossbow will be in question.
  6. At the last stage it is necessary to tighten the bowstring. For this purpose, stationery rubber bands are used, which are intertwined with each other. The more rubber bands you use, the more powerful your crossbow will be. However, you should not overdo it here - three or four layers will be quite enough.

You can use regular ballpoint pens as arrows for such a crossbow. They are quite heavy for a targeted flight, and the inertia of the rubber band will be more than enough to launch such a projectile.

It turned out to be quite powerful, as for target practice. Double limbs are used here, which increases the rigidity of the bow and allows you to throw wooden arrows at high speed. The author uses self-tapping screws as arrowheads, but you can use your imagination and come up with something more interesting.


Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- timber;
- PVC pipe;
- two self-tapping screws;
- strong rope;
- wooden rods for arrows;
- adhesive tape (for feathers).

List of tools:
- hacksaw or pendulum saw;
- jigsaw;
- belt grinder;
- drill;
- marker;
- roulette;
- screwdriver;
- construction hair dryer;
- vice;
- oil for wood processing;
- paint for painting onions (optional).

Crossbow making process:

Step one. Cutting out blanks
First of all, let's cut the wooden beam, it will be used to make the base. We also need to cut the pipe. You should have two parts, long and short. See photos for dimensions.













Step two. Making a bed
We make the bed from a wooden beam. First of all, we will make the necessary markings using a marker. Well, then we cut out the extra parts using a jigsaw; a jigsaw will cope with this task perfectly.


















Step three. Let's make a bow
Our bow consists of two parts, which increases its rigidity. Everything is made from PVC pipes that need to be made flat. To do this, we will need a vice with a wooden insert so that there are no marks left on the pipes. We heat the pipe with a hair dryer until it becomes soft, and then squeeze it in a vice. Step by step we heat the areas and compress them. Finally, we form the desired bow profile.
















Step four. Bow mount
To attach the bow, look for its center, and then drill two holes, like the author. For fastening we use two self-tapping screws and washers. But don’t fasten the bow tightly yet, it still needs to be modified.












Step five. Finalizing the bow
The essence of the modification is to make grooves at the ends of the arms, to which the bowstring can be tied. We make markings and cut out excess parts using a jigsaw. As for the short arm, you need to make grooves at the ends so that the string does not fly off.








Step six. Installing the bowstring
We use synthetic strong rope as a bowstring. Cut two pieces of the required length and melt the ends using a lighter. Well, then we tie the main string to the ends of the shoulder with a slight tension. As for the additional shoulder, in order to use it, you will need another rope. You can see how everything connects in the photo.













Step seven. Arrangement of the trigger mechanism
The trigger mechanism is of the trigger type. It consists of two parts, one is the trigger, and the second is a part with teeth, one of which holds the bowstring, and the other rests against the trigger. These parts can be cut from plywood using a jigsaw.













Step eight. Making arrows
We make arrows from wooden rods. To stabilize the flight, make feathers for them; the author used adhesive tape for this. Well, you need to install some kind of weight on the end of the arrow; the author put a self-tapping screw there. If desired, you can cut off the head and sharpen the rod.














Step nine. Tests
You can try out a crossbow! The author showed excellent results. Quite good power for such a small crossbow is perfectly combined with high accuracy. Author libral1973 I always dreamed of making my own crossbow, but as a child it didn’t work out - I started doing it many times, once I even got to the point of making a stock and a simple trigger mechanism (SM) with a single-pronged nut. Yes, in general, the information on crossbows was very scarce and fragmentary - it seems that - what’s so complicated about a crossbow - the stock-arc-hook, and the bowstring? But everything turned out, as always, to be somewhat deeper. Time passed and, finally, having gone onto the World Wide Web, I was able to find the information I needed about crossbows and their manufacture, although, I must say, not right away. At first, an article by G. Petrosyan and V. Reznikov from the collection “Multi-colored Targets” often popped up, where a fairly easy-to-manufacture crossbow was presented with a brief description of the design and manufacturing process. There it was proposed to use the shoulders from broken sports bows as arches. I did not find any broken shoulders due to the absence of such sections in the area. The construction kept being postponed. Then, once again delving into search engines, I came across the site “crossbow.info”, where there was much more information on building a crossbow. There they suggested using a sheet from a car spring, mainly from Moskvich, as shoulders, as well as such specific things as braids, turned and assembled into a “pie” like a car spring. There was also information about the manufacture of fiberglass shoulders. Although I had read (more than once) Shokarev’s book “Bows and Crossbows,” I still could not understand what “rollers” and “blocks” were, what they were for, and what they were used with. Immediately I began to slowly “enter” the design of such systems. Although I remained, and still remain, more of a fan of classic crossbows with a simple or recursive arc for purely aesthetic reasons, it was also interesting to read the guys who had already made crossbows on their own. But what I noticed then was that many people asked to give them drawings for construction. Honestly, at that time I also had a desire that someone would lay out the drawings for me, and I would “build” a crossbow using them. The only one who responded to the requests of those suffering was one of the forum members - Vyacheslav (Casido). Many people still make their first crossbow according to his drawings. Although, I note, those drawings were not without flaws, many things were crude and unfinished (including a single-tooth nut and a not very successful pulley system), but this did not stop many. Unfortunately, I decided to make a crossbow based on his drawings.

When they brought me a spring leaf from a Moskvich, I suddenly realized that I really had nothing to process it with - I had neither an angle grinder nor a normal drill. While I “grew up” with this, the dream continued to remain a dream. And then a certain moment came when I decided to take this seriously and... registered on the “crossbow.info” forum. At the same time, I improved my skills in AutoCAD. And then the epiphany came that Vyacheslav’s drawings did not suit me, and that I wanted to build my own crossbow, easier to manufacture - without any turners and welders and from what was available to me and I didn’t have to go far.

The first “brilliant” idea came to me when I saw at my work used circles for a circular saw on wood, with a diameter of 400 mm and a thickness of 2.8 mm. Here it is! “A pair of 33 cm shoulders will come out of such a circle!” I thought and “wound” such a circle home. By that time, I had already developed the concept of my crossbow with some drawings in CAD.

It so happened that I ended up on sick leave for a month and I had time to build a crossbow. There was a small shed and the necessary set of materials and tools.

What is it advisable for a novice crossbow maker to have in his arsenal of tools? If you are not a sadomasochist, then a grinder - or an angle grinder and a drill - should be a MUST in your arsenal! Another desirable power tool is a jigsaw; it greatly facilitates the work of cutting wood and plywood materials, as well as some aluminum and even steel.

So, I will list point by point what is PREFERABLY required from the TOOL:
1. Angle grinder (grinder) - preferably a small one with a 125 mm circle and preferably with adjustable speed, with cutting wheels for metal, 1 mm thick; flap wheels with abrasive 25-60 units (for metal 80 is possible); nozzle and Velcro sanding wheels with abrasive 180-220 units.
2. Drill with adjustable speed, drills for metal from 2 to 10 mm, for wood from 5 to 10 mm, drill for glass and ceramic tiles d6 (later I’ll tell you why).
3. Jigsaw, files for it for figured cutting.
4. A set of rasps or at least one semicircular one. You can also make a set of “emery” files, for example round, triangular and flat. We plan out a suitable stick, give it the shape of the file we need (with a narrowing in front) and glue on sandpaper number 25-40. These files are very good for processing the stock.
5. A set of needle files, a pair of large metal files (flat, triangular).
6. Various screwdrivers - you can’t go anywhere without them.
7. Vices and clamps - they are VERY desirable.
8. Hammer, core, awl, pliers, chisel.
9. A variety of sandpapers from 25 to 1200-2000, rectangular and semicircular wooden blocks for flat and curved surfaces.
10. Keys, mostly 10-13, everything will depend on what nuts and bolts you come across. As well as a hexagon for M6 bolts.
11. Flat chisels and a blunt knife.
12. Taps M4 and M5.
13. Tape measure, caliper, ruler and pencil.

And also glues (PVA is possible, but I prefer epoxy resin; as well as construction adhesive, such as “Master”), paints and other similar things according to desire and capabilities.

To make your work even easier, you can add a screwdriver, a drill (also known as a Dremel or mini-drill), or a belt sander to the above.

Of course, it’s good if you already have most of the above tools, but even if you need to buy them from scratch, they will justify themselves a hundred times over.

Now I’ll list what MATERIALS you will need to build this crossbow. If you do not plan to make a complete copy of my crossbow, you can change something to suit your available materials.
. So, to make the shoulders you will need a wood saw blade for a circular saw, 400 mm in diameter, 2.8 mm thick (thickness may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. I used a “wood saw blade 400x40Tx50 Fast Line from Ataka.” You can also use other suitable circles and saws.
. To make the block, a 50x50 steel angle with a 4 mm flange was used. A piece of around 300 mm is required, preferably larger for “failed experiments”. Naturally, you can use corners of other sizes by adjusting the drawing, but the shelf should not be thinner than 4 mm and shorter than 50 mm.
. Sheet steel, dimensions 2, 3, 4 and 10 mm. You will need several more necessary parts for the parts of the trigger mechanism, its body, and the manufacture of the stirrup. It is clear that if a certain dimension is not available, then you can use, for example, a 5 mm sheet, instead of 4 mm or 3 mm, instead of 4, adjusting the dimensions of the parts or reducing the thickness of the part with a grinder (not difficult on small parts ).
. 8 mm duralumin is desirable, but can be replaced with 8 mm sheet steel, which is required for the manufacture of the end walls of the SM-a. From it you can make a “dovetail” for a sight. Or, if available, use a thinner sheet.
. Steel spring plate for boom clamping. You can use a steel ruler, an old wood saw blade, or anything else that works.
. Good quality metal drills - one d5 and one d6 - their shanks will be needed for the SM-a axes. You can also use printer shafts or high-quality screwdrivers for these purposes.
. A piece of leather, 1.5-2 mm thick, is necessary for spacers between the shoulders and the block.
. Aluminum corner 20x20x2 - needed as a guide for the arrow. A piece of 700 mm is enough.
. Self-tapping screws 3.5x10 - 6 pcs., 3.5x16 - 2 pcs.
. Hexagon screws d6 - 6x12 - 4 pcs., 6x16 - 4 pcs., 6x50 - 1 pc. and 6x55 - 1 pc. You can also purchase all 6x55 screws, then cut them to the required length. Self-locking nuts for these screws - 10 pcs.
. Countersunk head screws d4 - 4x13 - 2 pcs., 4x8 - 2 pcs., 4x10 - 10 pcs.; d5 - 5x16 - 4 pcs.
. Flat washers for d6 - about 20 mm in diameter and at least 2 mm thick.
. Steel rod d10, required for bushings under the block, a piece of 100 mm is enough.
. Compression spring with outer diameter ~4 mm.
. Birch plywood, 18 mm thick. A piece of approximately 300x700 mm is required. You can use a different thickness, but the manufacturing technology may change in order to gain the required thickness from a thinner one, or grind off a thicker one.
. Fishing braid for bowstring, 0.2-0.3 mm thick. Preferably good quality (50 m reel).

Now we need to decide where to start. Many experienced crossbowmen believe that it starts with the shoulders and the block, but I think it's worth starting with the trigger mechanism. If you can make a working trigger mechanism with your own hands, then you can do the rest!

So let's get started. Below is a drawing of the side walls of the SM. Material - sheet steel 2 mm:

I first printed out the drawings on paper, cut them out along the outer contour, then glued them to the workpiece with construction adhesive such as “Master”, “Strongman” or “Dragon”. Then he placed a guide made of steel strip along the saw line, placed thick plywood under the workpiece and pressed it all against the stool with clamps, and then sawed it with a grinder (1 mm cutting disc). At the same time, the saw turned out to be quite smooth. The paper remains on the workpiece until final processing, that is, after drilling holes and turning along the contour. The inner line, which cannot be sawed off with a cutting wheel, is cut out like this - holes are drilled with a small pitch with a metal drill, 3-4 mm in diameter, and then cut with a chisel.

If the side walls are defeated, we proceed to the end walls, drawings below:

In general, the material of the parts is indicated on each drawing, so I will not focus on this. The second drawing also shows a drawing (approximate) of the boom clamping bar.

One more thing - treat the holes with great responsibility - if drilling is inaccurate, there will be a problem with joining. In the absence of a drilling machine, it is better to drill holes in a “package”, that is, take two mating parts, compress them with clamps and drill together. Pre-fill all holes!

So, the holes are drilled, the necessary ones are countersinked according to the existing screws, they are aligned with the left and right walls, the threads are cut. Let's start making the most important parts - the hook and the sear hook. The technology is the same - we glue the drawing onto the metal and roughly cut it with a grinder, then, if possible, we sharpen it, and the rest with needle files and files. The walnut parts are made separate to simplify production - all three parts are riveted with copper, or better yet, with rivets from M4 screws with countersunk heads. Only after riveting, carefully, without tilting the drill, do we drill a hole for the axle. The width of the nut should be 0.1-0.2 mm less than the distance between the side walls so that the nut can rotate freely on the axis. We place the parts on suitable axes, put either solid, self-made washers on the sides of the hook axle, or take them from existing ones, which is easier. Between the nut and the sear, in specially drilled recesses, we place a compression spring - it will press the hook to the nut and at the same time prevent self-cocking when firing.

After adjusting the parts, we grind them; for initial rough grinding, it is good to use a grinder disc with Velcro, on which sandpaper is stuck. The details are already shining! Let's polish them completely with sandpaper to a minimum of 800, and the place of the combat stop can be used with GOI paste. It is best to bury the parts after processing. The easiest way is to use ready-made bluing liquid - “Clover”, for example. A more complex, but also more reliable method is bluing with heating in oil. Parts for bluing must be prepared; it is better to do this by lowering them into a bath with a rust remover based on phosphoric acid. After being there for some time (until a dark gray matte film forms), the parts are washed in water, then heated on gas until dark cherry color and lowered into a container with sunflower oil. The result will be a black shiny film. All screws are blued in the same way. In general, after the “orthophosphorus bath” you don’t have to burnish it if you’re happy with a dark gray matte film. But, this is important! Before bluing, ALWAYS soak the parts in a rust remover, otherwise the bluing will peel off easily on most parts, and will not stick to the shiny coating of the screws and nuts at all! If desired and possible, you can also burnish it in other ways, for example, with rusty varnish.

If possible, make a dovetail strip like this for the sight:

It is also possible to buy a similar plank in the online store.

Aluminum parts cannot be simply coated; they need to be anodized, which is quite difficult. Therefore, aluminum parts can be left uncoated, but if you really want to, you can paint them with several layers of alkyd paint. This coating will last for some time.

Article taken from the original source http://forum.arbalet.info/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9313

Here is a video demonstrating the final assembly of the SM, I forgot about the spring, but I don’t recommend it to you!

So, the mechanism is assembled, refined, and works like a watch - you can start making the arms and blocks. The shoulders, as I already said, I propose to make from a 400 mm circular circle. Cut-out reamers are also glued onto it, and it can also be easily sawed with a cutting wheel. Ok, now let's drill holes! This is where a glass drill comes in handy! Slowly, at low speeds, drill 4 holes one after another. Do not forget to periodically stop and cool the drill and the part; it is better to first drop a drop of machine oil onto the drilling site. Then, we cut the grooves for the bowstring. We round off all sharp edges in the slots with needle files and carefully sand them. The arms can also be adjusted in thickness for more optimal work, or you can give the arc a recursive shape while cold on a wooden round mandrel. You can leave it the way I did. We cut out two leather pads for the shoulders.

To make the block we will use a steel angle 50x50x4.

We also drill all the holes “in the package”. Particular attention is paid to the holes for the shoulders - the shoulders should be placed clearly in one line and at the same distance from the center of the stock. It is best to coat the parts of the pads and shoulders with rusty varnish, or in extreme cases, “Clover”. If this is not available, then spray paint will help you. Naturally, all parts must be polished and prepared accordingly. After making the block, you should check the amount of tension (string stroke) using any suitable block. Secure the block with a temporary bowstring in it and note the amount of tension. If it differs from the amount of interference in my drawings, then the dimensions of the bed and guides should be adjusted.

From a d10 rod or an M10 bolt we make inserts for the bolts securing the block to the stock so that the wood does not jam when the fastening bolts are tightened. We drill holes in the cut workpiece, clamped in a vice, drill from both sides. It should be strictly in the center, if it does not come out, then you can adjust the fit of the inserts in the stock so that the internal holes coincide with the holes of the block.

We make the stirrup from the same 2 mm sheet metal as the walls of the SM and bend it in a vice:

From an aluminum corner 20x20x2 we make two guides for the arrow, holes for self-tapping screws are drilled and countersunk in it:

It is good to remove chamfers under the arrow using a flat block with sandpaper glued to it. Smoothly, slowly, without bending the corner, an even chamfer is drawn out. But it is better to do it at the very end, after gluing both halves of the bed.

To make a stock, it is better to cut out a template from cardboard. We outline the template on the plywood, drill holes in the places of sharp curves and inside the trigger guard with a wood drill. First, the internal holes are cut, then the general outline. Special attention should be paid to straight sections (where there will be a guide for the arrow); it is best to cut it with a hand-held circular saw along the guide or on a circular saw so that it is perfectly level. Due to my inexperience, I then had to level this surface with epoxy resin. After cutting out two blanks, it is advisable to connect them together with clamps and align the contours into a single one. After this, you can begin to cut out the grooves for the lock and the groove for the arrow with a guide. The layers of plywood are quite easily removed one by one, to the required size using chisels; along the sampling line, you must first cut the contour with a chisel or jamb.

After cutting the grooves, we apply our assembled CM in turn to each half of the stock and drill directly through the mounting holes in the lock body with a 4 mm drill bit for wood, then we remove the CM and drill out these holes in the stock with a metal drill for M5 screws. Then we apply the guide corners and drill 2-2.5 mm holes for the screws in the stock with a drill. We screw the guides to the stock. If everything is done correctly, then when the two halves of the stock are joined, between the corners you get an even groove of 6 mm along the entire length. We finally attach the corners to the halves; it is advisable to additionally attach the screws with glue. We prepare the halves for gluing - we sand the surfaces to be glued with fine sandpaper, you can additionally degrease them with a damp cloth with acetone or another similar solvent. We glue either PVA or epoxy resin (I prefer the latter, it inspires me more confidence), coat both halves well with glue, and compress with clamps, preferably through pads made of plywood or boards. It is better to immediately remove excess glue from the groove under the CM and the groove under the tail, then it is very difficult to pick out the frozen glue from there. Put it in a warm place and wait a day. First of all, after gluing, we check the fit of the SM in the stock, the alignment and parallelism of the guide angles. For the screws to secure the lock in the stock, we use either washers or these self-made pads:

Before processing the stock, you should finish working with the “iron” - seat the block and check the operation of the crossbow, at least with a temporary rope bowstring stretched. So, everything works smoothly and properly! HURRAH! You can easily bring the bed to perfection. Here, at will - either completely manually - with rasps and emery files, or with a grinder with a flap wheel and a “dremel” (that’s what I did). We sand, without being lazy, with sandpaper, to number 1200. After each number, we wipe the bed with a damp cloth so that the pile rises and is cut off by subsequent passes. There are several options for final processing of plywood stocks - this is either spray painting, or staining followed by impregnation with epoxy resin diluted with acetone or alcohol. In general, you can soak it in flaxseed or “danish”, as is done with wooden stocks, or wax it. Here everyone is his own master - a master.

Finally, we weave a normal bowstring using fishing braid. The number of turns is calculated as follows:

We divide the tension force of the crossbow (I got 35 kg) by the load that the braid can withstand (written on the reel) and multiply by 7-10 (safety factor). Example - Tension force - 35 kg, 0.2 mm braid - 10 kg. We get 35/10=3.5x7=24.5 turns.

The length of the bowstring in this crossbow is 62 cm. We screw in two self-tapping screws at the required distance and make the required number of turns, tie the ends together, and make a winding. On hinges and in the center. We throw it on the crossbow. After this, you can see how far the arrow fits into the groove and what chamfer should be removed so that the bowstring rests on the center of the arrow.

In this video I reproduced the order of assembling the crossbow.

I hope this article will help novice crossbow builders realize their dream and build their own crossbow! Good luck! Author Maniac

The crossbow was invented by the Romans many centuries ago. Later they stopped using it in battles, but seven hundred years later the Europeans brought the weapon back into use, having modernized it well. You can try yourself in the role of a warrior now. If you can’t buy an expensive weapon, then we will make you happy. You can make a simple crossbow with your own hands at home.

A handmade homemade crossbow is made of wood, paper or metal. It all depends on what you have on hand at home and what you will use it for.

There are recommendations on how to easily assemble a block, spring, toy and repeating crossbow yourself, using step-by-step instructions and simple diagrams. Therefore, everyone has the opportunity to use the hidden weapon of an assassin or arrange a battle with colleagues using a small office wrist crossbow made of cardboard.

The history of the appearance of the crossbow

The main advantage of a block or simple crossbow compared to a bow is that there is no need for training or special skills. There is no need to use force to aim here. Due to the levers, the device helps to cope with the bowstring.

In past centuries, many officials and rulers considered the possession of these weapons a dangerous undertaking, as they were afraid of a riot. Therefore, the Weapon Control Order was soon issued, when crossbows were banned throughout Europe. But after the outbreak of hostilities with the Turks, the decision was canceled. Richard the Lionheart made it the main element in the equipment of his warriors.

Making a crossbow yourself is not so easy, but it is possible if you have basic design skills, drawings and a few power tools. You are required to comply with safety precautions, since you are, after all, creating a weapon. Therefore, it should not be directed at people, nor should it be given to small children.

Nowadays you will no longer need medieval spare parts in the form of animal bundles or special fibers; improvised materials will do. But this is enough to shoot at cans or bottles.

How to make a crossbow from wood

A wooden shooting crossbow made of PVC or plywood block type is the most famous option.

Manufacturing instructions:

  • take a piece of wood that will be the base, attach a metal plate or corners to the end;
  • take another block, smaller in size (about 5 cm wide, 2 cm thick), make holes on the sides, place it at the base, 10 cm from the edge;
  • in two 15 cm plates in the middle, make fastenings for springs, make a hole at the edge for installing the shoulders to the base;
  • on the other side of the plate, make holes for a roller, which is sold in any market. Repeat these steps with the other plank;
  • attach the shoulders to the base;
  • use small spring springs (they act as a return mechanism), attaching one end to the shoulders and the other to a steel plate;
  • Install rollers on the edges of the smaller beam, secure the part at the base;
  • create two guides from organic glass;
  • build a trigger mechanism from clothespins, rubber bands or something more powerful;
  • paint the device and place the butt in a place suitable for your hand.

How to make a crossbow out of paper? Even easier!

Making a paper crossbow from cardboard that also shoots is as easy as shelling pears. Paper weapons shoot arrows from pencils, pens, matches, Lego skewers or rulers. In general, anything that is light in weight and looks similar to real arrows. For production you will need:

  • 12-18 sheets of paper;
  • three spatulas or ice cream sticks;
  • threads;
  • scissors;
  • pencil;
  • paper knife;
  • scotch.

Step-by-step instruction:

  • fold five sheets in half;
  • straighten and cut at the bend;
  • screw the halves onto a pencil and secure with tape;
  • put a 4 cm mark on the stick (spatula) and on the tube;
  • insert the spatula to the mark, then break off;
  • wrap the tube with tape for strength;
  • bend the sides of the crossbow;
  • take five sheets of paper and wrap them around a pencil;
  • attach the sides to the tube;
  • fasten the bowstring, tighten it and make a mark at the limiting point;
  • make a hole for the hook;
  • make a hook from a piece of stick and secure it in the hole;
  • cut one sheet in half, twist the tubes and secure in the descent area;
  • make another tube measuring 5 cm, insert it into the front part (it will be a guide).

How to make a mini crossbow for a child

A small children's crossbow will be an unusual gift for a child. The power is small, since the bowstring will be a simple elastic band. This will require a minimum of materials. It is done like this:

  • you need to connect three small boards together;
  • make the shoulders from metal and secure with screws;
  • cut off the gripping part from the clothespin;
  • the handle can be taken from a ski pole and installed using glue;
  • you can make a couple more shoulders for the elastic bands; bearings that are attached to a common plate are suitable for this;
  • for the pusher, take a small piece of wood, which is driven under the clothespin;
  • a groove is made for attaching the bowstring;
  • a bowstring is created from a durable elastic band;
  • for the trigger, just take a spare part from a children's pistol and attach a metal part to it;
  • connect the shoulders and the base;
  • attach the trigger mechanism with a screw;
  • fasten the elastic band;
  • secure the sight, if desired.

How to make a powerful crossbow for hunting or fishing

To create a real military weapon for hunting or fishing, more serious parts and diagrams will be required. What are the shoulders made of? Take a metal bow, make the stock out of wood, and make the bowstring out of elastic synthetic fibers.

The mechanism and fastenings made of bolts are the most difficult thing; only those who know how to work with metal can do it. But you can order the necessary spare parts in the workshop according to the drawings, and then assemble everything at home. But bolts and nods are easily made from wood or plastic, arrows with tips are made from wood or iron rods.

Not everyone can assemble a hunting or underwater crossbow. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to a master to be sure of the result.

Since ancient times, the crossbow has been known as a very accurate and lethal long-range weapon. A crossbow is a wooden stock to which a compound or steel bow is attached.

Thanks to a special hooking mechanism, its bowstring is easily fixed, which gives the shooter the opportunity to concentrate on aiming. The special design of this weapon allows the use of even heavy arrows, which hit the target with the same accuracy as regular arrows.

History of the crossbow

The original concept of the crossbow dates back to around 400 BC. At that time, the weapon was called “gastrafet”, which could launch two-meter arrows at a distance of up to two hundred meters. Thus, the gastraphetus was a longer-range weapon than the standard bow.

The crossbow was primarily used as a hunting weapon, and until the eleventh century it was not considered an effective way to eliminate opponents on the battlefield. However, warriors from the Middle East, who had already appreciated the advantages of the crossbow during numerous battles for control of the lands, again popularized this weapon among Europeans.


Crossbows during the Battle of Hastings

For example, during the Battle of Hastings in the mid-eleventh century, the Normans made extensive use of crossbows against their Saxon opponents. In addition, this weapon gained considerable popularity among the crusaders.

Shooting from a crossbow did not leave Richard I the Lionheart himself indifferent. It is believed that he was excellent at handling this weapon, having personally shot dozens of people with it.

It is interesting that the king himself died from a crossbow arrow during the siege of the Chalus-Chabrol fortress.

At the end of the twelfth century, crossbows entered service with the navy and infantry. Special detachments of crossbowmen began to form, increasingly becoming important participants in battles. Some units were part of many armies and fought for money.

For example, the rebellion of the English barons at the beginning of the thirteenth century was successfully suppressed, including with the help of three hundred crossbowmen, who instantly destroyed the enemy’s mounted troops. Of course, crossbowmen were on both sides of the battle.

In the same 1215, the rebel garrison, which surrendered in Rochester, declared capitulation. According to the decree of John the Landless, all captured knights could receive their freedom for a ransom. However, this order did not apply to particularly dangerous crossbowmen, who were sent to the gallows without any exceptions.

Quite soon, detachments of crossbowmen acquired a special status as part of the defensive forces of fortresses. For example, in the garrison of Safet Castle, which was located in the Holy Land, there were about three hundred crossbowmen. Approximately the same number of crossbows (and almost 267 thousand arrows attached to them) was discovered during an inspection of weapons stocks in thirty French castles of the Capetian domain.

And in the arsenal of the Norman fortress of Passy-sur-Hère there were five large crossbows, 25 crossbows with stirrups and almost 40 crossbows, which could only be loaded with the legs.

Crossbow design

The very first models of crossbows had the simplest design: a wooden bow was attached to the stock, and the string was pulled by hand. An arrow fired from such a weapon had a modest firing range (about one hundred meters) and could only kill a warrior without armor.

A little later, participants in the Crusades learned about the designs of compound bows, as well as about the different materials for their manufacture. For example, the inside of the bow was glued with special plates made of whalebone - they worked for compression.


The photo shows a crossbow with a compound bow

The tendons, glued on the outside, worked in tension. Dried fish bladders were used to make glue.

Drying of the product lasted at least one year. At the end of this process, the horns of the bow were bent in the opposite direction and had a strong tension. Stretching the bowstring of such a crossbow was a very difficult task, so mechanical devices were invented quite quickly.

At the beginning of the thirteenth century, a mechanism known as the "belt hook" appeared. To draw, the shooter had to turn the crossbow with the bow down and hook the steel hook to the central part of the bowstring. Then the shooter inserted one foot into the stirrup located in front of the weapon, straightened his body and pulled the crossbow down, applying significant effort to tighten the bowstring.


Loading a crossbow with your foot

In the fourteenth century, a new Middle Eastern type of tension hook came to Europe - the so-called “goat's leg”. It was a special rotary lever, equipped with a double fork, the end of which rested on a transverse pin on the stock of the weapon. The fork hooked the bowstring, and with the help of a lever, pulled it up to the hooking mechanism. The shooter could easily apply a force of two hundred kilograms and draw even the most lethal crossbows of those times.


Crossbow with a "goat's leg" bowstring tensioning mechanism.

By the beginning of the fifteenth century, the production of steel bows was established. By maintaining their previous dimensions, the craftsmen provided such bows with much greater destructive power and durability. To tighten the bowstring of such a crossbow, they used a “kranekin”, i.e. removable rack and pinion gate. A belt loop secured its mechanism to the crossbow stock, and the bowstring was hooked by hooks connected to a rack. With the help of a kranekin, a crossbowman could apply a force of 1,100 kilograms. However, pulling the bowstring required about thirty turns of the handle, which sometimes took up to forty seconds.

Simultaneously with this system, a removable gate appeared, which included intermediate blocks and handles that were attached to the weapon stock. With the help of this gate, the crossbowman could apply a force of approximately 800 kilograms, which made it possible to spend a maximum of half a minute on cocking the weapon. However, this bulky collar was very inconvenient in battle, since it had to be constantly attached to the crossbow.


Crossbow with a "kranekin" tension mechanism.

The crossbow hook was a simple and reliable mechanism, where the bowstring was attached to the protrusion of a bronze or bone “nut”. A special cutout was usually made on the ledge, which served as a sight.

To make the bowstring, high-strength flax, hemp rope, and cord made from ox sinew or rawhide straps were used. As the bowstring gradually stretched, it was subject to regular replacement. The string also deteriorated when exposed to water, so special leather cases were used to store crossbows.

Crossbow arrows, called "bolts", were made of wood. They were up to 40 centimeters long, about one and a half centimeters thick and weighed about 70 grams.

In order to stabilize the flight path, “wings” made of wood or leather were often attached to the arrows. The tips had a petiole design and a pyramid-shaped head.

Crossbow sighting range

In the fifteenth century, the most lethal crossbow, equipped with a steel bow, could launch an arrow at a distance of up to 400 meters. The sighting range of a crossbow with a compound bow was approximately 250 meters - the same distance that an arrow fired from a traditional bow could fly. However, such an arrow, firstly, was not able to hit the target at its end, and secondly, its movement along a certain trajectory could be instantly interrupted due to the wind.

The crossbow bolt pleased shooters with much more combat-ready aerodynamic parameters.

At a distance of targeted shooting at single targets (about 90 meters), a crossbow bolt successfully penetrated any enemy armor, be it chain mail, plate armor or knight's armor.

Thanks to this feature, crossbowmen were able to keep the archers of the enemy army at a sufficient distance, from which firing arrows was virtually useless.

Still, the crossbow had one drawback over the bow - its low rate of fire. In one minute, a worthy archer could manage to fire about ten arrows, while a crossbowman during the same time managed to shoot only five times from a light crossbow or two times from a heavy one.

In addition, the crossbowman had to try to kill opponents with the first shot, otherwise during a long reload of the weapon the target could leave the affected area.

When cocking a crossbow, the shooter became an easy target for enemies, so he was often covered by a second warrior with a special shield.

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