Diseases of garden roses: treatment and prevention. Diseases of climbing roses and their treatment with traditional methods and fungicides Diseases of roses and their treatment

Being a capricious flower, roses often become infected with various diseases. This becomes clear from its appearance: a characteristic coating appears on the leaves and buds, or spots or dryness appear. The plant begins to wither before our eyes, and it needs to be given the right help. Often roses become infected from neighboring bushes or weeds, so when planting roses you should leave a distance of at least 50 centimeters from neighboring plantings.

Fungal (bacterial) diseases

The basis of a fungal infection is a fungal spore. It grows quickly and is easily transmitted from an infected plant to roses. If any sign of a fungal infection is detected, treatment is started immediately to prevent the fungus from spreading further. The most common diseases are:

Stem cancer. The disease occurs due to damage to the flower by a fungal infection, also called Infectious burn. Infection occurs in spring or autumn. The fungus penetrates the stem through microcracks and multiplies. The growth of the fungus will be provoked by fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, as well as rainy weather and lack of wind. Signs of a stem canker infection include a grey-brown flower stem that develops cankers. Over time, black spots - pycnidia - form on the ulcers.

The most effective way to fight cancer is to remove cankers from the stem with sandpaper or a knife. The places where the ulcers are cut off are treated with potassium permanganate or garden varnish. To prevent the fungus from spreading to subsequent bushes, the affected plant is sprayed with HOM fungicide. For cancer prevention, a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture is used, which is sprayed evenly over all bushes. The liquid will prevent the spread of fungal spores and protect the roses from infection.

Rust. The disease occurs due to the spread of the fungus Phragmidium. The defeat occurs in the spring, most often in April. Red (rusty) spots appear on infected leaves. Then the entire leaf dries out and falls off. New young shoots curl into a tube, then crack and also fall off. Treatment is carried out with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. It is sprayed over the entire height of the bush. Preparations containing zinc and copper effectively fight rust. Such substances include Topaz, Abiga-Pik, Bayleton.

Powdery mildew. One of the most common types of the disease. The fungus primarily affects young shoots, less often buds and leaves. The disease develops well at warm temperatures and high humidity. Signs of the disease are manifested by the presence of dark red spots and drying of the leaf blade. Pustules form on the shoot - white pads, which contain fungal spores. To treat powdery mildew, fungicides Fundazol, Topsin-M, Bayleton help. It is prohibited to feed the rose with nitrogen supplements during treatment. All infected shoots and bushes are pruned and burned, the cut areas are treated with hydrogen peroxide or garden varnish.

Gray rot. Infection of a rose occurs through infection from neighboring plants. The spread of the fungus Botrytis cinerea is expressed by dark spots that form on the sprout. The leaves and petals of the flower may have a yellowish tint and then quickly fade. Over time, a gray coating with a fluffy layer appears on them. The growth of the fungus is provoked by high humidity and excessive watering of the soil. The use of fungicides such as Euparen or Fundazol helps against gray rot. Infected shoots are immediately removed from the bush and burned. Dry leaves and branches are also trimmed.

Viral diseases

The virus infects the rose instantly and is quickly transmitted to neighboring shoots. The bush becomes infected with viral infections from neighboring plants. With timely and rapid treatment, the infection can be defeated without sad consequences, but in advanced stages the rose dies.

Streak virus. Any plant can become an infecting object. The infection manifests itself by the formation of a burgundy-brown edging around the perimeter of the leaf. Then the leaf begins to turn black and dies. The main measure to combat striping is trimming the affected leaves. The cut areas are treated with potassium permanganate or peroxide.

Viral wilting. The disease manifests itself in a special way: fox roses become elongated and narrow, and then acquire a brown color and fall off. Bud formation occurs sparingly, and soon stops altogether. Gradually all the shoots become thinner and dry out. First of all, after detecting wilting, the bad infected shoots are cut off and the cut is treated with garden varnish. The disease is difficult to treat; the only effective solution to the problem is pruning the bush. If an entire rose bush is infected, it is dug up and burned so that the disease does not spread to healthy flowers.

Tobacco necrosis virus. The disease is transmitted through the juice contained in the shoots and zoospores. In the initial stage, spotting occurs on the leaves of the rose, and then intense darkening of the leaf occurs and it falls off. Necrosis is combated by drugs from the group of insecticides that are aimed at killing insects.

Mosaic virus. Mosaic is considered one of the most common diseases. If round necrotic spots appear on the leaves of the plant, this is the first sign of infection with the mosaic virus. The disease is transmitted through plant sap; the carrier may be a nematode. Mosaic is difficult to treat, so infected shoots are pruned and then burned.

Non-communicable diseases

Most often, roses begin to “feel unwell” due to a lack of nutrients in the soil or due to an unfavorable climate. This has nothing to do with the bush being damaged by fungal or viral diseases. A lack of nutrients in the soil manifests itself in different ways. It could be:

rapid withering of buds. May be caused by a lack of potassium, magnesium or manganese in the soil;
poor bud formation. Most often it occurs when there is a lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil;
yellowing of leaves. The cause may be an excess of nitrogen in the soil or a lack of iron;
leaf falling. A lack of magnesium makes the leaves less durable and they quickly fall off.

To determine the specific cause, the rose needs to be observed for several days. Then you need to apply the necessary fertilizing. Sometimes the use of organic fertilizers based on mullein, chicken manure or peat helps to improve the situation. The addition of complex liquid additives with a rich elemental composition has a good effect on roses.

Important! All additives are diluted with water in advance in accordance with the instructions for use of the drug.

Folk remedies for treatment

Old and time-tested methods are still popular because they work effectively and do not harm the rose. A mixture of ash and rotted mullein is very successful in combating powdery mildew. For a bucket of water take 1 kilogram of manure and a glass of ash. Infuse the mixture for a week, and then pollinate the entire plant with the solution. Pollination is carried out in the morning 1-2 times a week.

Regular laundry soap can help get rid of fungal spores. The infected areas are washed with soap foamed with a sponge and left to soak for 2-3 hours. Then wash off the soap from the surface of the leaves and trunk with clean water. Soap is not applied to the buds. The procedure can be repeated after a couple of days.

Onions and garlic will help against insects and bacterial infections. 3 heads of onion or 2-3 heads of garlic are crushed in a blender, and then transferred to a saucepan and filled with 3-4 liters of water. Keep the infusion at room temperature for 5-7 days, filter. Spray the solution on the leaves and stem 2 times a week for a month.

Disease Prevention

In order not to have to deal with diseases, and even more so with their treatment, roses must be treated for preventive purposes. Disease prevention is carried out in the spring - this is the most vulnerable time for infection. Copper sulfate is an excellent medicine for this purpose. Its 3% diluted solution is sprayed over the bush when the rose buds are still closed. Bordeaux mixture has a similar effect.

Mullein and ash have a preventive effect. Their liquid mixture is applied to the leaves and stem of the rose in the first half of summer. The preparations Zircon, Euparen, Tilt, Bayleton can also be used to prevent the formation of fungal and viral infections; they do not harm the flower and are normally tolerated.

Attention! The optimal time for processing roses is considered to be mid-April - late May. When treating with preparations, it is better to avoid fertilizers.

With timely prevention, roses will never have to be treated. Of course, there are times when a flower withers and sheds its leaves, but in most cases this is caused by a lack of vitamins. To eliminate the problem, it is enough to choose the right additive, and the rose will continue to grow actively and delight with its attractive appearance.

Roses are sick, what to do, treatment of sick roses, how and with what to treat roses Roses also get sick, and harmful insects strive to spoil their beauty. Therefore, gardeners cannot lose their vigilance. As soon as you notice the first signs of illness in your rose, immediately strike back to neutralize the enemy and destroy, and to cure the sick beauty. Bacterial cancer on roses Bacterial cancer - this disease most often affects old plantings of roses. On the lateral roots, in the area of the root collar, and less often on the branches, growths with an uneven tuberculate surface form. At first the white ones are small, then they increase in size and change color to brown. The causative agent is bacteria that live in the soil. Infection occurs through root wounds received during planting or transplantation. It occurs more often on heavy clay soils with an alkaline reaction and with excess nitrogen. The disease disrupts the plant's supply of water and nutrients and can lead to death. How and with what to treat bacterial cancer If the plant is severely affected by the disease, the plant is destroyed. If there are few tumors, the stems and lateral roots with growths are cut off and the root system is immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water), then dipped in liquid clay mash, to which 1 tablet of heteroauxin is added. Stem cancer, or infectious burn of rose branches. The disease appears on the stems of roses in the early spring (after being released from the shelter). At first these are small reddish-brown spots, then grayish-brown with a wide red-violet border. The spots gradually ring the branches and they dry out. The pathogen overwinters in the tissues of affected shoots. The burn is most severe on poorly overwintered and weakened roses. Excess soil moisture and damage to the bark contribute to the development of the disease. How and with what to treat stem cancer (infectious burn of rose branches) In the spring, remove covers in a timely manner, trim and burn diseased shoots. Before the buds open, spray the plants with a solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture (200 g per 10 liters of water). In the first or second decade of May, for prevention, plants are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture (100 g per 10 l of water), 0.4% copper oxychloride (40 g per 10 l of water) or 0.2% topsin. m (20 g per 10 liters of water). At the end of summer, roses are fed with potassium fertilizers (30-40 g/m2) so that the shoots ripen better. Before covering, be sure to remove leaves and unripe shoots and spray with 2% Bordeaux mixture (200 g per 10 liters of water). Select a type of winter shelter that allows for ventilation and less moisture accumulation. Rust on rose leaves Rust spots appear on the upper side of the leaf, orange pads (an accumulation of fungal spores) appear on the underside of the leaf, which turn black by autumn and the leaves fall off. The fungus overwinters on fallen leaves. Excess nitrogen in the soil and rainy summers contribute to the development of the disease. How and with what to treat rust Shoots affected by rust are cut out. In early spring, before the buds open, spray the plants and soil around with any fungicide containing copper: 1% copper sulfate (100 g per 10 l of water) or 3% iron sulfate (300 g per 10 l of water). In summer, spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture (100 g per 10 liters of water) or 0.4-0.5% copper oxychloride (40-50 g per 10 liters of water): the first time before flowering, the second time after flowering. Helpful advice: Treat roses against rust with wormwood infusion. To do this, place 400 g of fresh herbs in a wooden bowl, add 10 liters of cold water and leave for 2 weeks. Then filter, dilute with water 1:10 and spray on diseased plants. Or you can insist for 1-3 days, but then there is no need to dilute the infusion. By the way, it also helps well in the fight against aphids and caterpillars. Powdery mildew on roses The disease affects young shoots, leaves, and buds. In June - August they become covered with a white powdery coating. Leaves curl, shoots bend. The disease is more often observed with poor agricultural practices and in rainy summers. How and with what to treat roses for powdery mildew In the fall, all affected shoots are cut out, fallen leaves are burned, and the soil is dug up. In the spring, dormant buds are sprayed with 2% copper sulfate (200 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water). Excluding the flowering period, plants are sprayed during the season every 2 weeks with 0.2% topsin-m (20 g per 10 l of water) or a solution of soda ash and soap (50 g of soda and soap per 10 l of water). In addition, the following infusion gives a very good result: fill a third of the bucket with rotting grass or manure, add water to the top and leave for three days, then filter, dilute 3 times and spray the plants. Good luck at the dacha!

Rose diseases are mainly found in the flower beds of inexperienced gardeners who pay little attention to pre-planting soil treatment, selection of seedlings, and also naively think that flowers do not get sick. So that you also know why rose buds dry out and how to cope with the main diseases of these flowers, below we have prepared instructions for their treatment.

Why do roses get sick?

Anyone who loves roses should know their diseases, as well as the causes of their occurrence. Flowers can get sick for various reasons, and mostly they are all associated with the carelessness of the gardener:

So when planting roses, it is important to properly prepare the soil and choose flowerbed neighbors, and also not to forget about regular fertilizing and pruning. If you had to deal with rose diseases, we have prepared their description and treatment below.

Did you know? Roses are not only a garden crop; they are also found in the wild, and some of them are capable of showing incredible endurance. For example, there is a variety of these flowers that has successfully taken root even in the Arctic Circle.

Methods to combat infectious burns

An infectious burn appears on rose bushes in the form of reddish spots, which over time can degenerate and completely kill the plant. The reason for the development of this problem in the rose garden is the excessive accumulation of moisture under the cover during winter, excess nitrogen fertilizers in the soil and weakening of the shoots due to the presence of wounds. The fungus that causes rose blight can be transmitted from plant to plant through pruning shears.

The most effective way to deal with an infectious burn is to regularly prevent it:

remove leaves and shoots that are affected by infection;
before sheltering for the winter, spray the bushes and the soil around them with a solution of iron sulfate (about 30 g per liter of water);
It is necessary to cover rose bushes only in dry weather with an air temperature no higher than +10°C;
after removing the cover from the bushes, they can also be treated with Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 1%;
when pruning shoots on roses, all tools must be disinfected;
It is important to remove vegetative shoots from affected areas by cutting them out and treating them with garden varnish.

How to remove rust from roses and why it appears

Another disease is rose rust, the causative agent of which is presented in the form of a particularly dangerous fungus. It is capable of spraying its own spores, thereby affecting neighboring plants. You can notice rust on rose bushes in the spring, since this disease causes last year's shoots to crack and pollen to fall out of them. Weak plants that lack nutrients and moisture are most susceptible to this disease. In some cases, weather conditions cause rust.

To prevent rust from appearing on roses and to help flowers get rid of it, it is important to use the following rules:

Try to open rose bushes as early as possible in the spring so that they don’t get steamy.
Affected and dead shoots must be cut out and burned.
To maintain the vital activity of the affected plants, they are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture, adding 4 g per liter of water.
To avoid introducing the disease into the rose garden through an infected seedling, be sure to dip it in a 1% solution of copper sulfate before planting.
If you cannot get rid of rust on a plant within a year, donate it, otherwise the infection will spread to other inhabitants of the flowerbed.

Also, do not forget that roses love to grow in a sunny place and need rich, fertile soil. The soil under the rose bushes should have good drainage, and the acidity should not go beyond 7.5. Strong bushes will be more resistant to rust.

Important! Roses require a lot of moisture to grow well, but they need to be watered rarely, but very generously.

Powdery mildew: removing powdery plaque from plant leaves and stems

This disease does not manifest itself only if the air humidity does not rise above 60% and the temperature is between 16 and 18°C. In a situation with unstable weather conditions, it is difficult to avoid its occurrence. Often, powdery mildew forms mold on roses, which makes them completely unsightly, since the disease affects the stems, leaves, buds, and even thorns. The longer the plant is sick, the more extensive the plaque spots become. Since powdery mildew often affects young shoots of plants, without taking measures to combat the disease, the rose may not bloom.

To cope with powdery mildew and prevent its reoccurrence, it is necessary to resort to the following measures:

1. Every autumn, cut off all diseased shoots and burn the fallen leaves.

2. Digging a flower bed, in which the raised layer must be turned over, which will lead to the death of pathogens from insufficient air.

3. Spraying roses in the fall with a 3% solution of copper sulfate.

4. Spraying the bushes during the growing season with a copper-soap solution (200-300 laundry or liquid soap per 9 liters of rainwater, into which you need to pour another liter of water, in which 25-30 g of copper sulfate was previously dissolved).

5. Spraying roses with a suspension of colloidal sulfur (1%). This is necessary to stimulate plant growth, as well as increase their “immunity” to the disease.

6. Feeding flowers with fertilizers that contain potassium. But under no circumstances should you use nitrogen, as it will only worsen the situation.

7. When powdery mildew on roses progresses particularly strongly, the bushes can be sprayed with a solution of 50 g of soda ash in 10 liters of water.

8. In autumn and spring, the soil around the bushes should be fertilized with ash in a concentration of no more than 120 g per 1 m2. In this case, it must be slightly covered with a top layer of soil. Diseased bushes can be sprayed with an infusion of ash (to do this, prepare a solution of 100 g of ash and 10 liters of water, which should stand for 5 days), which should be done once every 7 days.

9. An infusion of mullein will also help fight mycelium; about 1 kg of it will be needed per 10 liters of water. Spraying also needs to be done once a week.

It is important to spray the bushes until traces of powdery mildew completely disappear.

Important! It is necessary to hill up roses not with peat, but with ordinary sand. Thanks to this, during the first thaw, the bushes will not begin to grow, but will continue to sleep until real warmth arrives.

Leaf spot and its elimination

You can get rid of spotting only by applying a whole range of measures:

It is important to immediately tear off and burn all affected shoots and leaves;
every autumn the soil is dug up, during which it is important to completely turn the soil layers over to limit the access of air;
using a special preparation for spraying bushes, which should be carried out both in autumn and early spring.

How to deal with gray mold: description of the disease

Gray rot is dangerous because even with almost completely healthy shoots, the affected rose bushes will still not be able to bloom, since the fungus of this disease often affects the buds and upper parts of the shoots. White and pink roses, which receive insufficient nutrition and moisture, are most susceptible to this disease. The mycelium of gray mold is quite resistant to temperature changes, so it calmly survives the winter, and in the spring it continues to reproduce with the help of spores.

This disease is also inherent in strawberry and wild strawberry bushes, and it is not recommended to plant roses near them. To prevent the development of gray rot, rose bushes should be planted in a wide enough space so that each plant is well lit. It is better to water roses in the morning or in the middle of the day, since after evening watering they will not have time to dry out by night.

It is better to pluck and burn all affected plants to destroy the fungus itself. At the first signs of gray rot, you can use a horsetail decoction for spraying, and if the lesions have spread widely throughout the bushes, it is better to resort to a solution of foundationazole in an amount of 0.2% per liter of water.

Bacterial canker on roses

Bacterial rose canker is one of the most common problems gardeners face. This disease can affect not only the stems, but also the roots of the flower, which is why it can rarely be saved.

Root cancer

This type of disease is characterized by the formation of hard growths on the roots of the plant, which begin to rot over time. This leads to drying out of the bush, since the growths prevent moisture from reaching the shoots. The reason for the development of root cancer in rose bushes is damage to their root system during planting, as well as growing flowers in clay soils with a high nitrogen content.

If you notice such symptoms on your rose bushes, be sure to trim off all growths and dip the entire root system in a 1% solution of copper sulfate for 2-3 minutes. After this, the roots are washed in water, and the plant can be planted in specially prepared soil.

However, if the roots of the rose are completely affected by cancer, and there are traces of it even on the root collar, it is better to burn the plant immediately.

Rose stem canker needs immediate treatment, since its pathogen reacts steadily even to severe winter frosts and can rage especially intensely in the spring. It can take up to 3 years for the plant to completely heal.

When fighting stem cancer in rose bushes, it is important to regularly inspect the flowers and remove any affected areas. Every year, when the buds swell, the affected bushes need to be treated with a solution of zinc sulfate (to do this, dilute 300 g of the substance in a liter of water).

For preventive spraying, you can also use solutions from:

· copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture - 200 g of the substance will be needed for 10 liters of water;

· copper oxychloride (per 10 l – 40 g of substance);

· Topsina-M (per 10 liters of water - 20 g).

A plant weakened by cancer will also require additional feeding. To do this, at the end of summer it is useful to strengthen rose bushes with fertilizers rich in potassium. Before sheltering for the winter, it is important to spray such roses with 2% Bordeaux acid.

Cytosporosis and its treatment

A symptom of this disease is a radical structural change in the bark on the shoots of rose bushes. Under the influence of the causative agent of cytosporosis, it first turns brown and then begins to die. Also, over time, many inflamed tubercles appear on the surface of the affected areas, and the bark itself begins to become wet.

Treatment of cytosporosis involves treating the bushes with a solution of Bordeaux mixture. It is important to carry out this treatment even before the bushes bloom. All affected areas of the plant must be pruned and burned in a timely manner.

Did you know? Sometimes small rose buds are not the result of lack of flower care or diseases, but a feature of the variety. Thus, in a variety of roses called “Si”, the size of a blooming bud does not exceed the size of one grain of rice.

Viral wilt

This disease is also quite common. It is characterized by painful development of bushes: shoots and leaves grow strongly, but at the same time have a deformed appearance, the leaves have a thread-like shape. Over time, the shoots and leaves become brown, as a result, buds do not form on the bushes, and by the end of summer such a bush usually dries out.

It is almost impossible to combat viral wilt. It is important to trim and burn all affected shoots in a timely manner, and if the disease has affected the entire bush, it would be correct to dig it up and burn it completely. It is worth understanding that viral wilt can be transmitted from bush to bush through pruning shears, which are important to disinfect when working in the rose garden.

Disease Prevention

It is important to carry out preventive actions to prevent the appearance of diseases on rose bushes annually. In particular, treating roses against fungus using Bordeaux mixture should be carried out both in the fall, before protecting the bushes from frost, and in the spring, even before they begin to grow. When planting rose bushes, it is also important to prepare clean, nutritious soil that is free of fungi and other pathogens.

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The most common rose diseases and methods of treatment

INFECTIOUS BURN

Symptoms. Treatment
Reddish-black spots appear on the shoots, sometimes with a light brown dry area in the center of the burn. A crimson border is visible along the edge of the spot. In the spring, with poor ventilation, these spots quickly increase in size and ring the shoot, which dries out.

To avoid the spread of the disease, it is better to cut off the affected shoots. If the damage is small and the shoot is very poor (for example, in a single-blooming rose), you can try to leave the branch, but watch it very carefully to prevent, for example, damage to the graft - after the roses open and warm weather sets in, the spread of the disease quickly stops, and the burn spots “freeze.” Such branches can be pruned after flowering in the summer. Such small spots can be tried and treated - cleaned with a sharp knife to healthy tissue and covered with Rannet.

Powdery Mildew

Symptoms. Treatment.
The causative agent is the fungus Sphaerotheca pannosa. Reddish-purple spots appear on young leaves and the leaves are often misshapen. The buds, shoots, and leaves become covered with a powdery white coating, the leaves curl and fall off. On varieties with rougher, leathery leaves, mosaic coloring or wrinkling is sometimes observed.

The most rapid development of the fungus and the germination of its spores (conidia) occur at 18-20C and humidity above 60%. Often, 2-3 outbreaks of the disease are observed during the growing season, which is associated with suitable conditions or re-growth of shoots (powdery mildew affects mainly young tissues). Compliance with correct agricultural practices - do not overfeed roses, plant them in well-ventilated places. Prevention is desirable - roses are regularly sprayed with an infusion of mullein or ash (these infusions destroy the mycelium threads). For treatment, in addition to the mullein solution, you can spray it with fungicides based on triazoles (Topaz, Skor).

RUST

Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is fungi of the genus Phragmidium. Rust fungi have several stages of development, the symptoms of which differ from each other. At the end of April-beginning of May, yellow-orange tubercles of the spring (aecidial) stage of the fungus appear on the stems of the budding buds, on young green shoots, petioles and the upper side of the leaves. Dusty pustules form on the underside of the leaves, from where the fungal spores are spread to healthy plants.

As a result, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, young shoots become bent and dry out. In July, urestasta develops, which is characterized by the appearance of small rusty-brown pustules on the underside of the leaves. Yellow and reddish spots on the upper side of the leaf, growing, cover its entire area. The shoots thicken, become deformed and crack, which is accompanied by a mass of dust-producing spores. At the end of August-September, the pustules darken - the body stage develops in them, in the form of which the fungus overwinters in the affected stems and fruits. The last two stages can significantly shorten the growing season of roses, which leads to a decrease in growth, premature drying of leaves, weakening of plants, and in severe cases, their death. The development of the disease is favored by high humidity, especially during the initial growing season. Hot, dry weather inhibits the development of the disease.

Treating rust is difficult. It is necessary to cut off and burn all affected parts of the plant - under no circumstances put them in compost! For prevention, before each flowering, it is necessary to carry out foliar feeding with a 0.3% solution of superphosphate extract and a 0.3% solution of potassium nitrate until the leaves are completely wetted. For treatment, you can try alternating treatment with drugs containing mancozeb (Ridomil Gold, Profit) and penconazole (Topaz), as for black spotting - but they are also more effective in early spring, as a preventive measure. If the damage is severe, the plants cannot be treated. They are dug up and burned.

GRAY ROT

Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the fungus Botrytis cinerea. Wintering shoots of bushes from the top cut rapidly turn brown from top to bottom and die. With high humidity, the shoots become covered with fluffy, smoky-gray mycelium. Areas of fabric become brown and, in humid weather, become covered with a gray coating. Green shoots dry out completely, flower stems break. Diseased buds do not bloom or produce one-sided flowers. Densely double varieties are especially affected by gray rot.

The disease develops strongly at high air and soil humidity, thickened planting, and lack of phosphorus and potassium in the soil. At the first signs of the disease, it is necessary to create conditions of maximum dryness near the plants, feed them with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in a ratio of 2:1 for the active substance, adding manganese microfertilizers.

NON-OPENING OF BUDS

Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the fungus Botrytis cinerea. Dark spots appear on the stems, buds and flowers become covered with a dark gray coating, the outer petals turn brown and dry out, and the flowers fall off prematurely. First of all, rot attacks weakened plants, and most often those with white and light pink flowers. Small brown spots (ulcers) appear on the petals, the leaves turn yellow and also fall off.
The disease progresses in rainy weather, especially among varieties with soft, delicate petals.

To avoid the appearance of rot on flowers, roses are not watered with sprinkling, but during the rainy season they are fed with manganese-containing fertilizers; damaged flowers and buds are immediately removed, trying to prevent rotten petals from falling on the leaves. Unfortunately, a number of varieties are susceptible to such damage to flowers, and in rainy weather you will not be able to see them in all their glory. These are, for example, varieties Colette, Andre le Notre, Eden Rose, Sebastian Kneipp and others.

BACTERIAL CANCER

Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens (Sm. et Town.) Conn. Uneven tuberculate growths of various sizes appear on the roots, root collar, and stem bases.

At first they are soft and light, gradually darken and harden, and over time they rot. On self-rooted roses, growths often appear directly on the stems and grow quickly. Plants affected by bacterial cancer show weak growth of shoots, and the bushes gradually dry out. Plants with growths in the root collar area are dug up and burned. Small growths can be removed followed by disinfection with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

BLACK SPOT

Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the fungus Marssonina rosae. In the second half of summer, black spots appear on the leaves, the lower leaves quickly turn yellow and fall off. With severe damage, only young, unblown leaves remain on the roses. Prevention against this disease is desirable - spraying with infusions of mullein and horsetail. You can also use drugs that increase the plant’s resistance to disease (zircon, immunofit, El, Amulet). A very good recommendation was given on the Websada forum - for treatment, alternating spraying with preparations containing mancozeb (Profit, Ridomil Gold) and triazole (Topaz, Skor), with an interval of a week (alternate no more than three times), is effective. Reviews for this treatment regimen are very positive.

Downy Mildew (Peronosporosis)

Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the fungus Pseudoperonospora sparsa. The bark of the shoots cracks and becomes covered with sores. Small red-brown or purple spots of angular shape (with straight sides of the spot) appear on young leaves; the leaf gradually becomes deformed. If the stain reaches the central vein of the leaf, it immediately falls off. Purple spots may also appear on the shoots. On adult leaves, the leaf tissue becomes faded and soft in places, the color does not change, then this spot quickly becomes red-brown and dries, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, the flowers and buds are deformed. Sometimes a barely noticeable grayish coating appears on the inside (it can often only be seen with a magnifying glass). The outer petals of the buds turn black and fall off. The bushes are stunted. The development of the disease is promoted by high air humidity and cool weather; in dry and hot times the disease subsides.
Downy mildew is quite easy to confuse with black spot. The difference is that with downy mildew the plant usually loses leaves from top to bottom (with black spot it is the opposite). At the same time, the fall is very fast, literally in a couple of days.
Affected shoots must be cut off and burned (the fungus overwinters in young shoots). The pathogen is biologically close to late blight fungi, so anti-phytophthora drugs (Profit, Ridomil Gold) are also effective against downy mildew. As a preventive measure, plants are fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

Cercospora leaf blight (grayish spot)

Symptoms. Treatment
The disease is caused by the fungus Cercospora rosiola Pass. Numerous round spots appear on the surface of the leaf, 1-5 mm in diameter, initially dirty brown, with a dark purple border. Later, the center of the spot turns gray, but the edge remains dark purple. Sporulation develops on the upper side of the necrotic tissue in the form of black dotted hemispherical pads. Severely affected leaves turn yellow and fall off. The disease is easily confused with black spot, which it is very similar to. Treatment measures are the same as for black spotting and downy mildew

LEAF PHYLOSTICTOSIS

Symptoms. Treatment
The disease is caused by the fungus Phyllosticta rosae Desm. The spots on the leaves are round, scattered, dark brown with a wide purple-brown border. Over time, the center of the necrotic tissue becomes ash-gray, but a wide purple border always remains. Another fungus that is often found is Phyllosticta rosarum Pass., which causes the formation of grayish-white spots with a wide purple border.

In the center of necrotic spots, small pinpoint black fruiting bodies of the overwintering stage of fungi are formed. Affected leaves turn yellow and fall off prematurely. The infection persists in fallen affected leaves. Treatment measures are the same as for black spotting and downy mildew.

LEAF SPOT

Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the fungus Coryneum confusum Bub.et Kab. The spots are brown, irregular in shape, growing, and covering the entire leaf, with or without a yellow or red border. Sporulation occurs on the upper side of the leaves in the form of slightly submerged flat blackish rounded beds. The infection persists on affected fallen leaves. Treatment measures are the same as for black spotting and downy mildew

Pestalocy of a rose
Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the fungus Pestalotia rosae West. Brown spots appear on the leaves along the edges of the leaf blades, growing towards the middle. There is often a characteristic yellow stripe at the border between healthy and necrotic tissue. Numerous grayish round pads of fungal sporulation develop on the upper sides of the spots. Affected leaves turn yellow and dry out prematurely. On young shoots, often in protected soil, depressed necrosis of a grayish-brown color appears, on which sporulation also develops in the form of grayish pads. The mycelium grows into the wood of the shoot, necrosis deepens and becomes an ulcer. The shoots gradually dry out. The infection persists in plant debris and affected stems. Timely pruning of affected branches with ulcers, spraying plants along the bark before buds open with Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (Abiga Peak). Collect and burn affected leaves.

PURPLE SPOT

SymptomsTreatment
The causative agent is the fungus Sphaceloma rosarium (Pass.) Jenk. (=Phyllosticta rosarium Pass., Gloeosporium rosarium (Pass.) Grove.). On the upper side of the leaves, small multiple rounded purple, sometimes even black spots, bordered by a wide crimson stripe, are formed. Later, the spots lighten in the center to grayish, but a narrow purplish-brown border always remains. Small black fruiting bodies - pycnidia - form on the spots. On the underside of the leaf blade the spots are brown and merging. Affected leaves fall off, flowers are underdeveloped. When the disease spreads strongly, dark brown spots with a white center also appear on green shoots. Treatment measures are the same as for black spotting.

The queen of flowers, the rose, is undoubtedly the beauty of any flower bed. The variety of rose varieties today makes it possible to create beautiful compositions with these flowers. They are planted in separate rose gardens or among other flowers, in any case they are very beautiful. But this beauty requires considerable sacrifice. The procedure for growing roses itself is quite complicated. This flower is demanding, delicate, and needs to be protected from the external environment. Unfortunately, roses suffer not only from bad weather or pests. Quite often they get sick. What diseases of roses exist, how to fight them, or how to prevent them altogether? This will be discussed in our article.

Description of diseases with photos and videos

Rust is an early spring disease

It is in those years when spring is warm and rainy that roses most often suffer from rust. The problem appears even during the period when the plants bloom. The spores appear as a dusty orange mass. It can be observed near the leaves, also in the area of the root collar.

In summer, the disease is visible on the back of the leaves. There appear peculiar red-colored pads. The appearance of these sporulations negatively affects the entire plant. Its functions and abilities are impaired: photosynthesis, metabolism. When the disease develops, the plant loses its decorative appearance. Leaves, flowers and buds begin to become depressed and deformed.

How to prevent

It is important to follow three main rules. Firstly, it is necessary to thin out the bushes, removing dried branches and flowers, every year at the end of summer. Secondly, with the onset of autumn, it is important to treat the plants with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate (3%). And thirdly, roses must be sprayed according to the instructions with chemicals that stimulate the plant’s immunity. Suitable, for example, are “Zircon”, “Immunocytophyte”, etc.

How to fix

The fight against this disease includes the following measures:

Affected shoots must be pruned;
The leaves are collected and necessarily burned;
The soil is dug up;
Treatment with a copper-soap solution during the growing season.

Folk remedies

You can try to remove rust with this product. Mix 1 tbsp. l. soda, 1 tsp. means used to wash dishes, 1 tbsp. l. vegetable oil, as well as 1 gallon of water and 1 tablet of aspirin dissolved in water. Plants should be sprayed with a mixture of these ingredients once every 1-2 weeks.

Rust is the most terrible disease of roses: video

Black spot - a disease of summer rains

This problem is most widespread in those regions where frequent precipitation is observed in the second half of summer. At first, only small dark spots appear. By the end of July, they can already become large, sporulation forms on them. Then the leaves begin to fall, first the upper ones, and then lower and lower. When the disease spreads greatly, the leaves darken completely. They begin to dry out and then disappear altogether.

The spores and mycelium of this pathogen survive winter well, being on the leaves and shoots of the plant.

How to prevent

Every autumn it is necessary to spray all bushes with copper sulfate 3%. This procedure must be performed before sheltering for the winter. The prevention system includes the same measures that are taken to combat the disease.

Control measures

They include the destruction of all diseased parts of the plant. The leaves are collected and burned, just like the shoots. Digging also needs to be done, preferably with a formation turnover. Among the ready-made preparations suitable for processing are “Kaptan”, “Fundazol”, “Topaz”, “Skor”.

How people fight

It’s worth noting right away that it’s most likely not possible to cure a rose from black spot using folk remedies alone. This has long been tested by many gardeners. But they are great for prevention.

You can spray the plant with a solution of water and iodine. The latter you need to take 1 ml, which is enough for 400 ml of liquid. Another way is to water with mullein solution. It is diluted approximately 1 to 10, after which it is left to infuse for several days. Such watering is allowed during the period from removing the winter shelter until the buds open.

The whole plant can be treated with a decoction of garlic and onion peels. Approximately 30-40 g of this waste is poured with water and boiled. After this, the solution should sit for at least 6 hours.

Black spotting is the scourge of all gardeners: video

This disease is familiar to all gardeners and gardeners. The fact is that it affects not only flowers, but also a very large number of different crops.

Already from the name itself you can understand that the external sign of this disease is the presence of a substance that resembles powder. Its color can be gray or white. Almost the entire upper part of the plant is affected by this disease.

Preventive measures

They include several main tasks:

Rose bushes should not be allowed to become dense. It is very important to thin out plants.
It is necessary to apply nitrogen fertilizers strictly according to the calendar. If you oversaturate the soil with them, especially after mid-summer, this will lead to disease.
It is necessary to use fungicides even during the formation of flower buds. The following drugs are suitable for this: “Fundazol”, “Bayleton”, etc.
It is necessary to add potassium sulfate at the beginning of the second half of summer.

How to overcome

The simplest, but most important, measures will be useful - pruning all shoots that are affected by the disease, as well as collecting leaves and destroying them in fire. The soil is dug up only with the formation turnover. So the pathogens will suffer from lack of air and may die. During the period of awakening of the bush or its falling asleep, treatment is carried out with copper sulfate or potassium sulfate with copper sulfate. Spraying is also carried out with such means as colloidal sulfur (1% suspension), or soda ash (50 g of substance per 10 liters of water).

Traditional methods

There are many ways to combat this problem as it is so common. One proven method is zonal solution. It is prepared from 1 kg of sifted ash and 10 liters of water. The liquid should be warm. It is necessary to infuse the product for at least 3 days, stirring every 20-25 hours.

Peronosporosis - a disease of bad weather

Experts note that this disease most often affects hybrid tea varieties of rose bushes. Plants that are located in the shade, with poor air ventilation around them, usually suffer. As a rule, the problem appears during periods when humidity is high and the temperature drops sharply.

The signs of the disease are as follows. At first, spots of incomprehensible shape appear. They are purple or red in color. As the disease develops, the leaves wither and weaken. Then they curl up and eventually just die. The stems suffer from cracks, and the buds also begin to die and darken.

If you look at the sheet through a magnifying glass, you can see a coating in the form of a cobweb on the back side.

How to prevent

Downy mildew or downy mildew can be prevented. It is necessary to regularly remove weeds and destroy fallen leaves. This also applies to shoots and whole plants that are damaged.

Digging with the turnover of the layer every autumn is mandatory. Nitrogen fertilizers must be treated with caution and used in moderation. It is necessary to carefully monitor the soil, ventilation and temperature conditions. It is important to ensure that water does not get on the leaves while watering.

How to eliminate the disease among the people

For a long time, bushes have been treated against downy mildew with decoctions of horsetail, garlic peel, solutions of ash, iodine and milk. The last remedy is prepared as follows: add 1 liter of milk (skimmed) and no more than 10 drops of iodine (5%) to 9 liters of water.

Horsetail decoction is prepared as follows. It is necessary to prepare 1 kg of fresh plant or 150 g of dried one. The raw materials should be soaked in 10 liters of water overnight. After this, the infusion should boil and cook for about 30 minutes. After cooling, the substance must be filtered and diluted in a ratio of 1 to 5.

Anthracnose - a cold spring problem

Although this disease is quite common, it has not yet been fully studied. The first symptoms are small dark spots. They can be confusing and the problem can be confused with black spot. But over time, the spots change. They turn red, purple or brown. Their center is usually lighter in color and sometimes has a hole in it.

Prevention

A mandatory event is pruning. All affected areas are subject to it, including stems and leaves. Then all waste must be burned, which will help avoid the spread of fungus.

Every autumn it is necessary to clean the bushes and the area around them. This will prevent re-infection.

How to fix the problem

When traces of anthracnose are already noticed on rose bushes, it is necessary to urgently use microbiological preparations. "Gamair" or "Fitosporin-M" are excellent. In the fall, you can treat rose bushes with drugs such as Ridomil, Fundazol, etc. It is advisable to alternate them, otherwise the plants become addictive.

Infectious burn - the problem of wounded flowers

Rose bushes can become infected with this disease during the dormant period - in autumn or spring. For example, if there is no proper care, then fungal spores enter the stems through cracks that appear due to severe frosts. Another route of infection is wounds that form due to improper pruning or post-processing. Weather conditions also contribute to infection - lack of wind, too high humidity. Late fertilization with nitrogenous substances can also worsen the condition.

This disease is also called stem cancer. It appears as dark cankers on the stems, which lead to the death of the shoots. Over time, you can also notice black spots on the ulcers, which help the disease spread.

Prevention of infectious burns

Firstly, under no circumstances should the plants be allowed to freeze. This provokes the appearance of cracks through which infection occurs.
Secondly, shelter must be carried out in a timely manner and in the right conditions. The temperature should not exceed 10 0 C, and the humidity should be moderate.
It is important to treat the soil before covering with special means: Bordeaux mixture (1%) or copper sulfate (3%).
Every time before pruning roses, it is very important to disinfect the tools.
Spray with potash fertilizers from the beginning of the second half of summer.

How to treat

All shoots that are already damaged by the disease must be removed. But it is important not to damage the ulcers. Small wounds need to be cleaned with a sharp knife, for example, for paper, to healthy flesh. Then they are covered with garden varnish. Every week, diseased bushes must be treated with HOM fungicide.

Infectious burn after winter on roses: video

Problems arise in conditions such as too dense planting, cold air and high humidity, as well as improper use of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. The main symptom of this disease is gray spots. They can be seen on all parts of the bush: leaves, flowers, stems and even buds. As the disease progresses, these spots become yellow, rotten areas appear, and they begin to die.

How to carry out prevention

Precautionary measures include constant loosening of the soil. It is also important to do mulching. It is also necessary to apply fertilizers that prevent the proliferation of fungi. These include manganese-containing drugs. They enhance oxidative processes inside the plant.

Treatment

It depends on what stage of development the disease is at. If it is just beginning, then the following steps need to be taken:

All diseased parts and shoots must be destroyed;
Plants need to be provided with dry living conditions.

If the plant has already been seriously damaged, then special substances cannot be avoided. It is necessary to spray roses with a solution of Fundazol (0.2%). There is one more measure - the most extreme. Every two weeks the bushes need to be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture (1%).

Traditional methods

This disease is often difficult to overcome with light decoctions or infusions. But, like other fungal diseases, gray rot can be prevented or eliminated using horsetail decoction.

Gray and root rot: video

Rose is a plant, although prickly, but very tender. It is susceptible to various diseases, but you should not give up growing this crop because of this. You just need to know what and how to do to overcome diseases. Then there will be incomparable, beautiful queens of flowers in your garden.