If a folding knife suddenly folds spontaneously while working, then not only will the work be ruined, but you can also seriously injure your hand. To prevent this from happening, modern knives are equipped with locks - special structural elements that allow you to securely lock the blade in the open position.
The first primitive knives had a special protrusion on the heel of the blade, like a straight razor, as a retainer. In the open position, this protrusion was either inside the handle or in a groove on its upper part. The hand holding the knife also held this protrusion and did not allow the knife to fold. This type of locking is still used on some pocket knives.
Modern knives use many types of locks. The most common types of fasteners are:
Locks with fixation on the butt of the blade - slip joint (slip joint) and back lock (back lock). Structurally, these are the simplest locks. Until recently, they were considered the most reliable.
Linear or liner locks - liner lock (liner lock), frame lock (frame lock), bolster lock (bolster lock). These are locks that are structurally integral parts of the handle elements.
Pin locks - axis lock (axis lock), ultra lock (ultra lock). Fixation with these locks is carried out due to a moving pin located perpendicular to the plane of the blade.
Locks with fixation on the butt of the blade
Slip joint lock - one of the oldest and most famous. The principle of operation is simple. A rectangular cutout is made in the upper part of the heel of the blade. A spacer (yoke) is attached to the handle liners. In the open position of the knife, the spacer enters the groove on the heel of the blade, presses on the horizontal part of the heel from above and strongly presses the blade against the axial screw. Everything is extremely simple. This simplicity of design makes the knife easy to assemble, disassemble and clean.
Among the shortcomings, the poorly controlled process of closing the knife should be noted. The tighter the spacer holds the blade, the faster and more powerfully it falls when closing. You need to be careful and protect your fingers. In addition, the slip joint lock does not provide a rigid fixation: if you press hard on the butt of the blade, it will fold directly onto the owner’s fingers. Therefore, such a knife is not suitable for power work.
This type of lock was used in Soviet-era folding knives and is now often found on Victorinox knives, especially multi-function ones.
Back lock - an improved version of the “slip joint” lock. It also has a rectangular groove, which is made on the heel of the blade from the butt side, and a spacer, the shape of which resembles a poker. In the open position, the short end of this “poker” fits into the groove and rigidly fixes the blade. To open the lock, you need to press on the back of the long end of the “poker”. To do this, a shaped cutout is often made on the top of the handle, which makes it possible to press your finger on the desired part of the spacer. In this case, the short end comes out of the groove and the knife can be closed.
The lock was invented by the American blacksmith Buck Hoyt, who founded the Buck knife brand. The most famous knife model with such a lock is the Buck 110 knife.
The back lock is considered the most reliable, but a knife with such a lock is difficult to fold with one hand. The disadvantages also include the fact that the lock requires rigid fixation of the axial screw between the liners. If play appears, tighten the screws immediately or eliminate it by lightly tapping the rivets.
Linear locks
Liner lock
- a very simple and, at the same time, reliable design, formed by a minimum of components. A figured cut in the form of a horizontal strip is made on one of the handle liners. This strip acts as a spring, which, when the blade is opened, bends inward and rests against the heel of the blade. When the plate is pressed back to the reverse position, the knife folds. This spring-loaded plate - the liner - is very resistant to damage and deformation, which is why the lock has become very popular and widespread.
The reliability of the lock is further enhanced by the fact that when holding the knife in the palm, the thumb of the hand additionally secures the part of the liner in contact with the heel.
The linear lock allows you to close the knife with one hand. But, due to the asymmetrical design, this is not very convenient for people with a dominant left hand.
The creator of the knife is knifemaker Michael Walker, which is why many Western companies use the name Walker Lock.
A well-known knife model with this type of lock is the Ontario Rat. It was the liner lock that made this model light, reliable and popular.
Frame lock
- is derived from liner lock. It is used for knives whose handles are formed by metal dies. These knives do not have liners, so the cut is made directly on the metal die, which fixes the blade in the open position.
More and more knives are appearing in which one die, with a spring-loaded strip, is made of metal, and the second is made of decorative material. Thus, the popular knives from the Zero Tolerance company have a die with a spring made of titanium, and the other one is made of G-10 fiberglass.
Among the advantages of the lock, one should note its high reliability. In addition, the lock is easy to clean from dust. Among the disadvantages, it should be noted that the assembly of the structure requires a very precise fit. Therefore, it is better to buy a knife with this type of lock from trusted manufacturers. The castle was invented by American master Chris Reeve.
A type of “frame lock” is Bolster lock . This rather rare lock is used when the dies are made of expensive metal. In this case, the flat spring for fixing the blade is part of the bolster.
Pin locks
Axis lock - a through spindle-shaped pin is used as a latch, installed perpendicular to the blade in a through slot on the handle. A spring rests against the pin, which secures the blade in both open and closed positions. To fold the knife, you need to manually slide the pin along the slot and release the blade. The main advantage of such a lock is its high opening speed. It is enough to wave your hand sharply and at the same time press the pin - and the knife comes to the open position. Closing the knife occurs just as quickly. Among the disadvantages, the rather complex cleaning procedure should be noted. This lock is not intended for use in the field.
Benchmade was one of the first to use this lock. Now other companies also use it for their knives. Ganzo knives equipped with axis locks are very popular.
Ultra lock - differs from other pin locks in that the blade is secured by two pins. On the heel of the blade there is a semicircular cutout into which a movable pin fits, like an axis lock. In the upper part of the heel, on the side of the butt, there is a groove, into which another pin rests - motionless, like a “slip point” lock. This lock holds the load perfectly, including during chopping blows. Used in some models of Cold Steel knives.
Automatic locks
As a rule, automatic knives have push-button locks - button lock (button lock) or plunge lock (plunge lock). To bring the blade into the open state, you only need to press the button, which will release the spring. The blade is instantly thrown out of the handle.
Button lock – these knives are equipped with automatic knives with side ejection of the blade, as well as knives with inertial opening of the blade. Externally, the lock looks very simple, although for it to work smoothly, precise adjustment of all parts is required. The lock is based on a pin, which has a figured cutout, and a spring. The button that activates the lock mechanism and located on the side of the knife is the part of the pin protruding outward. When closed, the blade is fixed by the thicker part of the pin. When you press the button, the pin moves to the side, releases the blade and allows the spring to move. She pushes out the blade and the knife comes to the open position. In this case, the heel of the blade falls into the cutout of the pin and is firmly fixed by it. Thus, the pin secures the lock in both the closed and open positions.
Many manufacturers use a button lock for manually operated knives solely to secure the blade in the open position. The knife can be opened in any way - using a peg, a washer, or behind a nail recess - and then it is secured with this reliable lock. To unlock, just press the button and hide the blade.
The button lock is quite reliable and durable, but has one peculiarity - it loves cleanliness very much. It should be protected from any dirt getting inside, so it is better to store the knife in a case.
The button lock is used quite widely. It can be found in expensive knife models, for example, from Böker, and in budget knives from Ganzo.
Plunge lock - at first glance it does not differ from the “button lock”. The same button, when pressed, the blade is ejected and then locked. But if in a button lock the blade fits into the recess of the pin, then in a plunger lock the spring-loaded pin fits into a groove on the heel of the blade, securely fixing it.
As you can see, the blade locking mechanisms are quite varied. We have considered only the main ones. In fact, there are much more of them, but the remaining ones are either less popular, or are used only in narrow series of knives, or are simply modifications of the ones presented above. Which knife lock is the best, most reliable and most durable? There is no clear answer to this question. Just like there is no answer which knife is better. Everything is individual. Manual opening knives are more durable. Automatic knives are “faster”.
The best folding knife is one that does not take up much space, is convenient to use, meets the requirements, and in difficult times will show its strength and reliability.
July 31, 2015 12046Which type of knife lock is better? There is no specific answer at the moment, since each mechanism has its own significant pros and cons. Many people, when choosing a knife in the description, are faced with the type of lock device for securing the blade, but few people know their distinctive features and operating principle.
In this material we will look at the blade locking mechanisms that can be found in folding knives: Axis Lock, Back Lock, Liner Lock, Button Lock, etc.
Back Lock works based on a small lever on the axis. On the pommel side of the knife handle, it is spring-loaded, and when the knife opens, the spike of the lever fits into a special groove. The rigidity of the entire circuit depends on which spring is installed in the lock. It should also be taken into account that a well-made Back Lock practically does not create any loofas and firmly fixes the blade. Otherwise, we are talking about a defect or an unscrupulous forgery. However, all Ganzo knives undergo comprehensive testing at the factory and meet all strict quality criteria. All parts are carefully adjusted to each other and ensure proper operation of the lock in each of the intended positions.
In Back Lock locks, the load is evenly distributed across the axis of the rocker part. Thus, the knife receives additional resistance to lateral loads. And to close it, the user needs to press the part of the lever that protrudes from the top of the handle.
The undeniable advantage of the Back Lock is its strength. This mechanism consists of a minimum number of parts, which has a beneficial effect on its durability. It is also important that this type of retainer does not require special care. It is enough to ensure that no dirt gets into the lock. Therefore, knives equipped with this lock are well suited for use for tourism purposes and during outdoor activities.
The Back Lock is one of the most widely used. It is most often used by Spyderco designers; it can also be found in some models of Ganzo, Gerber, etc. knives.
Knife lock Liner Lock (Frame Lock, Liner Quickly)
Liner Lock is a staple in the modern knife industry. Its popularity is due to the combination of simplicity of design with its high reliability. This locking mechanism consists of a minimum number of parts, which contributes to its durability. The main part of the lock is the liner, which is a flat metal plate. The strength of the entire structure depends most of all on the quality of the metal.
A good Liner Lock inserts a pressure spring behind the tang of the blade at a distance that is no less than the width of the tang itself. In this case, even blows to the butt of the knife will not shift the position of the liner and will not allow the knife to close. To fold it, just press one finger on the protruding part of the pressure plate and slide it to the side. When the knife is closed, its lock is practically invisible.
In addition to the reliable fixation of the knife blade, the Liner Lock is known for its reliability. It is low maintenance and not as susceptible to dirt as pin locks. Therefore, a folding knife with a Liner Lock is perfect for tourists, fishermen, hunters and all lovers of outdoor recreation. Although periodic cleaning of the lock and the entire knife will certainly extend its life.
Frame-Lock is a modification of Liner-Lock, differs in that the locking pin is part of the handle, and not a separate part.
The Liner Quickly lock combines the reliability of the Liner Lock with a more convenient way to open/close the blade with one hand using a special tongue. The lock tongue also serves as a stop and additional protection for the hand from accidentally slipping onto the blade. At the moment, Ganzo uses the Liner Quickly lock most often compared to other manufacturers.
Compression Lock is very similar in properties to Liner Lock, but the locking mechanism is located at the top of the handle. The principle of operation of the Compression Lock is based on the fact that the liner fits between a fixed stop and the interacting surface of the blade. The thickness of the plate corresponds to the thickness of the die, usually in the range of 1-1.5 mm. The part of the liner that works in compression is much shorter than that of the Liner Lock, which avoids the effect of longitudinal bending. Therefore, Compression Lock is by definition more stable and reliable than Liner Lock.
This lock is quite rare and is used mainly in Premium class products. The most popular example is the legendary Spyderco Para-Military 2 knife.
Axis Lock is a pin lock, characterized by unprecedented strength and a fairly simple design. The principle of its operation is that a spindle-shaped pin with the help of springs is installed perpendicular to the blade of the knife and fixes it in its extreme position. To refold the knife, you must manually push back the pin, freeing the blade.
The advantage of this type of knife lock is its high strength. During one of the tests of the mechanism, it was found that Axis Lock can withstand a load of 300 kg. This is not surprising, because the thickness of the metal pin is about 3 mm, and given that it creates a very small lever, it is not so easy to deform this part.
The second advantage of the Axis Lock knife lock is that it is easy to open the lock even with one hand. The mechanism works for the right and left hands. Moreover, although knives with such a lock are not automatic, they can be opened very quickly, which is especially valuable in extreme situations. But accidental changes in the position of the knife are completely eliminated by its design.
The disadvantage of the Axis Lock is its increased demands on cleanliness. However, this same property is also characteristic of other pin locks. Knives with such a lock must be cleaned periodically and should not be stored together with objects whose particles may become lodged in the lock. If you follow this simple rule, a folding knife with an Axis Lock will last for many years, maintaining the reliability and performance of the knife.
The AXIS Assist lock was invented by Benchmade as a modification of the Axis Lock, equipped with a safety lock. It is similar in comfort and safety to Axis lock; the main feature is a semi-automatic mechanism that ensures quick opening of the knife with one hand. Only found on Benchmade models.
Ball Bearing Lock
The Ball Bearing Lock is a Spyderco patented design found only on Gerber and Spyderco knives. The operating principle of the Ball Bearing Lock is very similar to the Axis Lock. It differs in that a steel ball is used as a locking element, which is pushed between the fixed parts of the frame. Many users note that this lock is quite difficult to operate and looks more like pampering than an innovative development.
Button Lock
Button Lock began to be used for automatic knives. But later, thanks to its convenience, manufacturers began to equip other types of folding knives with such a lock. This type of knife lock is considered very reliable and one of the most durable.
The Button Lock works by using a pin consisting of two metal cylinders of different diameters. When you press the button, which is the part of the pin protruding from the handle, the thinner part of the pin fits into a recess in the blade and releases it. After opening the knife, the blade is rigidly fixed by a wide cylinder. Thus, the lock is responsible for fixing the knife blade in each position: open or closed.
The quality of the Button Lock depends on how accurately the narrow and wide cylinders are adjusted. After all, if these parts do not fit tightly enough, the lock may periodically fail. Therefore, Ganzo pays great attention to checking the quality of all knives at the assembly stage and before packaging the finished product. The knives of this manufacturer are manufactured in compliance with international standards and will serve their owner for a long period of time, even with daily use.
The only drawback of the Button Lock knife is its insistence on cleanliness. Like other pin mechanisms, it is susceptible to any dirt getting inside. Therefore, owners of knives with a Button Lock type lock should be especially careful about keeping them clean. It is best to store such knives in a case.
The range of Ganzo models with this type of lock is still very small, but they are distinguished by a memorable design and high build quality.
You've finally decided to make your first folding knife. This is right. In any case, this gives me great pleasure, and the result inspires new creativity. Give it a try. You won't regret it anyway. Someone smart once said: “it’s better to do it and then regret it than to regret not doing it.”
Since you have already made up your mind, it means you have some design ideas. Let's assume that you have chosen a lock (Liner Lock), and this is one of the best knife locks. If not the best. It contains a minimum of parts, which means it has maximum reliability.
A little history. The modern linear lock was invented by Michael Walker in 1981. The most important thing that Michael did was create an independent blade fixation system that has only one spring. The lock's leaf spring not only locks the blade in the open position, but also ensures its secure fixation in the closed position.
In addition, this lock allows you to open and close the folding knife with one hand. This invention in the full sense of the word changed the face of the modern folding knife. Honor and praise to him for this.
Make a sketch of the future design on paper or in some graphics editor. For example, it turned out like this:
First of all, choose your materials. It is preferable for a blade, since if moisture gets inside a folding knife, the moisture is not so easy to remove. Therefore, if there is something to rust, it will rust. If there is a thermal operator capable of working with high-carbon alloyed stainless steels, then you are very lucky in life (at the level of happiness).
If not, you will have to work on hardened material, and this is not easy. To drill holes in hardened metal, I use ceramic and glass drills with an arrowhead tip. You need to work hard, at low speeds, but carefully. You can chip the drill. And, of course, monitor the heating of the part. Be sure to refrigerate frequently, otherwise it will release.
Give the desired shape to the blade. I have used blades from Tramontina Professional Master series knives several times. They are a little more expensive than regular kitchen appliances from this company, but they are made from Sandvik 12C27 or 1.4110 from Krupa. This is good steel.
For folding knife dies, I recommend titanium. Despite its small thickness, it is quite strong and has sufficient rigidity and springing properties. In addition, titanium is lightweight and does not rust at all. There are some peculiarities in titanium processing.
Titanium should be worked at low speeds. For example, I couldn’t cut a 4 mm plate with a grinder, but I could easily cut it with a hacksaw for metal, although it took a long time. The thread in titanium must be cut slowly, with oil, going back every 0.5-1 revolution.
To cut out the contour of the locking spring in the lower die, at the place where it is supposed to end, I drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm, connect them, insert a hacksaw blade there and off we go. Slowly, almost to the hole for the axle. In this place, I also recommend drilling a small technological hole for a clear end of the cut. All that remains is to saw through the line of the stopper itself. Here it is necessary to leave a reserve, which is then removed when setting up the lock.
The second, upper, die has exactly the same dimensions (as a rule) as the lower one. But it must have a recess for a hole for opening the knife. All mating holes should be drilled in batches. Start with the holes for the axle. Do not forget that the diameter of the holes for the fastening screws in the lower die must be threaded, and in the upper one the diameter of the screw.
So everything is cut and drilled. Select, or make your own, two fluoroplastic or bronze washers that will be used as a bearing on the axis of rotation (folding) of the knife. Insert the axle into the bottom die, install the locking pin, washer, blade, and fold the future folding knife.
If something doesn't match, adjust it to the correct size. This must be done very carefully and carefully. Remember Zhvanetsky: “One careless movement: and you are a father.” Well, everything fits together!
On the locking spring of the lower die, mark a place for the ball and in this place drill a hole with a diameter 0.1-0.2 mm smaller than the diameter of the ball. I use balls with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm, from the bearing. Then, in a vice (placing a piece of hot metal under the ball, otherwise it will fit into the jaws of the vice), press the ball into the locking plate. The ball should protrude approximately 0.5 mm outward. The thickness of the washer on the axis between the blade and the die.
Next, using a marker, draw in the place on the heel of the blade where the ball will move and fold/unfold the future folding knife several times. A clear mark from the ball will be visible on the blade. Stepping back 0.3-0.5 mm from the place where it (the trace) ends, drill a hole into which the ball will go in the folded position of the knife. Carefully bend the plate in the desired direction.
Assemble your future folding knife without the top die and adjust the lock (your stopper is cut out with a margin). Do this very carefully (remember Zhvanetsky). As soon as the lock engages, stop. Assemble the folding knife completely, with the top die, and try folding/unfolding it several times, apply force (as if cutting something). Do this several times. And put everything off until tomorrow.
Final adjustment of the parts of a homemade folding knife.
Sleep with the idea that you have made your first folding knife. The next day there will definitely be something to finish. Bring the lock to condition. The locking plate should not reach the upper end of the heel of the blade, otherwise it will fall all the way to the top plate and jam the lock.
If the spring turns out to be too tight (depending on the thickness and brand of used
In the simplest models, the blade is not locked in the open position: it will fold if you press it quite hard in the appropriate direction. This is how a classic pocket penknife works. In English literature, a knife equipped with a similar mechanism is called slip joint folder or a folding knife with a sliding joint (more like a joint).
I could not find the corresponding Polish term. Well, okay, it doesn’t matter what it’s called scientifically; what matters is how it works. A spring, attached with one end to the upper edge of the handle, with its other end presses on the disc-shaped surface of the back of the blade. And this surface is designed in such a way that both opening and folding the knife causes the spring to bend or unbend; at the same time, it provides a certain resistance, which allows you to hold the knife either in the open or closed position (Fig. ). But if in the folded state the spring holds the blade quite reliably, then in the open position such a knife cannot be called one hundred percent safe. In practice, you have little to fear if you only use the knife for light, well-controlled cutting—for example, opening correspondence or sharpening pencils. Perhaps this is why such models are becoming a thing of the past; few of them are produced now. Even typical multifunctional pocket knives are now increasingly equipped with mechanisms that allow them to hold at least one, the largest (main) blade in the open position.
DIY folding knife. How to make a folding knife with your own hands. DIY folding knife drawings. Friction folding knife. Author. Hello everyone, I present to your attention photographs of the step-by-step production of a friction-type folding knife. It’s hard to call it a master class or tutorial; a lot is missing. Friction folding knives are common in countries where knives with locking locks are prohibited. Knives of this type are widely used by European knife makers.
A true gourmet's journey through the home country of Meisel: portraits and recipes of 25 Michelin-starred chefs from Savoy, Haute-Savoie, Piedmont and the country of Nice, including fascinating anecdotes about the history of Savoyard gastronomy written by Annie Victor and illustrated photographs by Anthony Cottarel. There you will learn about the Savoie family and family, as well as modifications to production processes and the technical and commercial development of the brand. The visit ends with a film made during the workshops describing the current production processes.
With a foreword by Pavel Baucus and Michel Dejoe, the tale unfolds through the revelations of Maurice and Denis Meisel and interviews with company employees. The folding knife is one of the most common tools in America. Go to any convenience store, sporting goods store or outfitter in the country and you will find several to choose from.
If, like me, we don’t know how to use Corel, we draw for a long time and tediously with our hands. cut out of cardboard - fold and unfold
The clutch has a characteristic feature - a long tail protruding beyond the dimensions of the handle when folded, the principle of operation of such a knife is simple, in the frame of the knife there is a locking pin into which the tail of the blade rests when unfolded, and a special recess in the blade when folded so that the edge of the blade does not touched the inside of the frame. Well then, to the point:
With folding knives readily available and legal to carry in more places than a pistol, it's no surprise that more people are choosing a folding knife as their primary self-defense tool or to complement their regular concealed carry. But despite the wide range of folding knives available, not all blades are created equal. The folder market has some outstanding entries, but is also flooded with knives that are cheap, gimmicks, or simply not suitable for defensive use.
Can you open it with one hand?
If you're considering adding a folding knife to your self-defense options, these are the four things you need to look for. You need a knife that can be opened with one hand. If you are fighting in a clinch, blocking a strike, holding a child, or otherwise unable to use both hands, you will only have one hand free to access and open the knife. And even if you're using the knife in a non-defensive environment, you may need to open it with one hand.
Making a blade requires a separate master class. The axle and sliding washers are from an unknown Chinese folding unit.
we cut them out with a grinder, transfer the centers of all the holes from the drawing to the blade, and drill them, pressing the blade to the die, drill holes through the blade, first in one, and then through one in the other.
Does it have a secure locking mechanism?
The blade should lock open, without swinging in any direction. You won't be able to accidentally close the knife. If you need to use your switchblade to defend yourself, the adrenaline will pump through you. You and your attacker will both move and fight. When a knife is used, enormous forces will be applied to the blade. If your locking mechanism fails to handle this, you may find yourself with the blade locked or locking on your fingers.
Is the blade quality steel that will have a sharp edge and is designed to penetrate. The purpose of a defensive jackknife is to cut and stab. Unless your blade gets a lot of use from hard use, it won't make the cuts you need when it counts. A deeper cut is more likely to disable an attacker, and a sharper blade cuts the deepest. It is also very important that the blade profile facilitates penetration. When your attacker is wearing heavy, thick, or even just loose clothing, stabbing can be effective and cutting becomes less reliable.
We cut a groove between the locking holes, in my case with a grinder, ideally with a router
let's take a look at the assembly
From thick stainless steel (5mm) we cut out a spacer into the back of the handle
Is it legal to exercise in areas you frequent?
Laws regarding knives vary widely from state to state and even city to city. In fact, if you are carrying a folding knife for self-defense, it may be because a fixed blade is illegal to carry in your area. There are rules about length, type and deployment mechanisms. Some of them may be vague or vague, and many of them seem unfair. Our respect for the law is what separates us from criminals, even if we admit that some laws are stupid or arbitrary and do not deserve such respect.
we carefully consider this whole thing many times, we spit and swear
we attach the spacer to the dies, drill, insert pins, rivet, grind the tops of the heads flush
Make sure your knife is legal. There are many other desirable qualities in a knife. For example, you need a way to carry knives that consistently targets quick access. You also want a grip that doesn't get slick when it's wet, be it sweat, blood, or water. While these things are important, they didn't make a list because they can often be dealt with after the fact. The clip is good, but belts and pocket holsters can be a problem with carry. A smooth handle can often be trimmed or dressed with a handle.
But if the knife won't open with one hand, won't stay open under hard use, and won't stay sharp or penetrate layers of clothing, it's a problem that can't be fixed. If you've ever shopped for a pocket knife for daily carry, you'd know that there are a ton of options to choose from. Trying to understand the many types of knives and their subtle differences can become overwhelming. Of the many factors to consider when choosing something as personal as a knife, its locking mechanism is one of the most important.
We make bevels on the blade roughly, hardening and tempering, we remove bevels to zero + on the diamond on top, rough assembly
hand sanding, etching. The etching process is also missed because this needs to be done separately by MK.
We finally tighten the axial screw with cyanoacrylate fixation, roughly saw out the lining with a spare, and drill recesses for the axle heads.
You should know what type of lock, if any, you should have based on your needs and preferences before investing in a quality knife.
Linear locks are one of the most common mechanisms found on folding knives. A characteristic component of this mechanism is the side spring bar, located on the same side as the sharp edge of the blade, “lining” the inside of the handle. When the knife is closed, the spring bar is held under tension.
we glue one die, through the frame we drill holes in the die for the stop pin, and pins in the backplate, similarly we glue the second die and through the first we drill in the right places, glue the pins, and roughly grind them.
When fully open, this tension slides down the shaft inward to contact the butt of the blade, holding it in place without closing it. To disengage the liner lock, you must use your thumb to push the spring bar "down" so that it releases contact with the butt of the blade. This allows you to use your index finger to push the blade enough that it holds the bar so that you remove your thumb from the path of the blade, and then continue to safely close the knife.
Linear locks are useful because they allow the knife to have two true handle sides, as opposed to a frame. You can close the knife with one hand without a switch, ideal when you need both hands at work. You will find liner locks on both entry-level and high-end knives. This is the type of locking that appeals to both beginners and enthusiasts.
glue in the locking pin, cut it off and grind the lining closer to the desired shape
in intimate places where it cannot be removed with a grinder (for example), we remove it with a Dremel.
If you will be using the knife for heavy duty tasks, you should be aware that liner locks are usually not as secure as other locking systems. They're still quite strong, but since they're usually made from a thinner piece of metal, they're more prone to wear and tear, like a hard frame.
Think of a frame lock as a larger version of a liner lock. They are very similar to liner locking mechanisms, except that the internal spring strip moves into place, it is part of the handle itself. Frame lock knives tend to be stronger than liner locks because the piece of metal that slides into place is more substantial than the metal liner. Because of their similarity to liner locks, closing a frame lock knife is essentially the same - push down on the spring bar so it no longer blocks the butt of the blade, move your thumb out of the way, and then fold the knife closed.
you can matte all metal elements, although this is unnecessary
As you can see, at the beginning of the process I had an axial screw from a Chinese folding frame, but during the manufacturing process I lost it, and I had to quickly make it out of anything. I did not remove this. It is better to do the etching process as a separate MK, because There are many nuances that are important. In general, I missed a lot, I didn’t have enough hands. Article taken from the original source http://forum.zadi.ru/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=11774 Here are some photos of the finished knife.
This type of locking system puts more metal against the blade, providing a strong lock for piercing, cutting, slicing and other heavy-duty tasks. Locking locks are seen on many mid to high range knives, usually made from titanium. In the example shown here, the stainless steel insert interacts with the blade as it takes longer to wear than titanium and stabilizes the shaft so you don't loosen it by pushing too far. Not only do they add a unique look to the knife, but they are also easy to operate with one hand.
Manufacturing should begin directly with the blade. First of all, mark the place for the axial hole. We drill it and, using it as a guide, we make further markings of the blade. If you do the opposite and mark and cut the blade along the contour, and only then drill a hole, then during the drilling process, especially in hardened workpieces, the drill can move to the side and all dimensions will “float away”.
It's easy to use on one side, but also important, it's completely reversible. Here's how it works: The lock consists of a spring-tensioned rod that slides back and forth along a track cut into the handles of the knife. To close the knife, you will pull the bar towards the back of the knife using the thumb pins and fold the blade.
Typically these knives require two hands to open and close safely. They consist of a spring bar and a specially shaped blade. To open the knife, you pull the blade to overcome the spring pressure, snapping the blade into place. To close it, make sure your fingers are out of the way of the sharp edge and lean back. Friction folders are similar except they do not have a spring bar. Instead, the knife blade is held in place simply by friction between the steel of the blade and the weights of the knife.
Having transferred the contours of the blade to the workpiece, we begin to make the blade. We grind it using a grinder and sandpaper along the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade during the process of removing the slopes, we do not yet cut off the blade itself from the workpiece and do not form the heel of the blade.
To remove slopes, you can use various tools: grinders, sandpapers, flat grinders, grinders. I do rough grinding of the slopes on sandpaper and fine grinding on a surface grinder.
One of the main advantages of these types of knives is their legality. They are also a pleasure to carry because they are simple and easy to use. But it's worth mentioning that these knives don't have a real lock, so they're not the best for heavy-duty tasks.
By now you should be more familiar with your options to better choose a knife worthy of your pocket. Do you have a favorite type of lock to recommend? Words and images by Ed Jelly and Bernard Capulong. If you've seen photos of what people carry every day, you might be wondering, "Why do so many people carry a pocket knife?" The answer is different for everyone, but it all comes back to the idea that a handy pocket knife is an essential tool.
Next, we begin making the side dies.
Next, drill a hole in the dies for the blade stopper pin, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, or rather the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and start cutting it out.
Carrying a knife can also potentially save your life in an emergency or survival situation if you spend time outdoors. However, knives may be restricted depending on where you live and what your local laws are, so keep that in mind before deciding which pocket knife you can carry.
Best pocket knife for everyday carry
When you're choosing the best pocket knife for everyday carry, you should consider many factors: how big the knife is, how it opens, how it locks, how you'll carry it, how durable it is, etc. Remember that you will need a knife that is comfortable, built, durable, safe to use, and legal to carry.
Having prepared the pritins in this way, we proceed to install them on the dies. There are different methods: soldering, riveting, spot welding, etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.
For soldering you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in the flame of a burner. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid etched with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering areas. Cleaned with sandpaper and a file. After cleaning, coat the soldering areas with acid, take a piece of solder on a well-heated soldering iron and tin the surface. During the tinning process, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is covered with an even layer of solder. High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.
After servicing, rinse the parts thoroughly in water and soda, removing any remaining acid. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vice and begin to heat them with a burner from different sides. To reduce heat loss, thermal insulating material must be laid under the jaws of the vice; fragments of ceramic tiles work well. As it warms up, we press the vice until droplets of solder appear between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.
Soldering the right pritina has its own peculiarities: first we solder the knife axis into the die, and then solder the pritina, while instead of one of the ceramic tiles we use a piece of tube larger than the diameter axis.
Loading...