Installation of plumbing in the bathroom. How to install pipes in the bathroom yourself. Rules for laying pipes in the bathroom with your own hands

Everyone faces the need to repair their apartment. And when the decision is made to carry it out in the bathroom, you cannot do without replacing the pipes. And if the owner of the apartment wants to significantly transform the design of the bathroom or make any other fundamental changes, then installing the plumbing for the bathroom with your own hands is inevitable. It just doesn’t hurt to first purchase the material, prepare the tools, and take into account some good advice.

This stage is the most important, as it involves drawing up a plan that shows the arrangement of all the plumbing. This allows you to assess the entire scope of work ahead and select the necessary materials. The comfort of the room and the ease of use of each element of the piping system depend on how correctly the pipework in the bathroom is done.

First, you need to create a drawing where you indicate the number and location of all plumbing fixtures: how many sinks are installed (if the bathroom is large), is there a shower stall, a washing machine, is there a faucet for the bathtub. This will allow you to determine the number of pipes and fittings. If the toilet is divided into two rooms, then the wiring must be done by hand in both parts of the bathroom at the same time.

After drawing up a visual plan for the bathroom, you can proceed to its implementation. No particular difficulties are foreseen here, since wiring can be done in only two ways:

open;
closed.

Open piping

Hidden pipe routing. After plastering the walls, such piping in the bathroom will not be visible to the eye.

The open method involves the location of communications in the bathroom from the outside. From an aesthetic point of view, everything does not look very attractive, even if the pipes run close to the floor. Do-it-yourself hidden installation is better in this regard, since all communications are hidden from view, which does not spoil the overall design. But there is a downside - it takes a lot of effort and time.

Wiring diagram

sequential;
collector

Collector wiring

Daisy chain wiring

These two schemes are the most common. In addition to them, others are used, but extremely rarely. Therefore, it is worthwhile to dwell in more detail on the first two options. The essence of the sequential method is that the installation of the pipeline with your own hands occurs in stages. As the name suggests, plumbing fixtures are connected in series. There is just one point to consider. When using several plumbing fixtures at the same time, the water will be distributed unevenly.

The use of a collector is rational in order to distribute water evenly among all devices. In this scheme, each water intake point has its own separate section of the pipeline. And a tap installed near each device allows repair work to be carried out without shutting down the entire system. It is difficult to make collector wiring yourself; you will need a lot of consumables, which will invariably entail large financial costs.

Which pipes are suitable?

Today, pipes used for plumbing in the bathroom can be made from materials such as:

stainless steel;
copper;
metal-plastic;
polypropylene;
cross-linked polyethylene.

Types of pipes

Most people prefer to use pipes made of polypropylene or plastic. A metal-plastic pipeline is suitable for hot water. And if you take into account the service life, then a heated towel rail made of steel is better in this regard than a brass one.

Modern sewer pipes are made of plastic with different wall thicknesses and different diameters

Steel pipes are used extremely rarely, since installing them yourself is difficult and they are expensive. Copper pipes have high corrosion resistance and strength. But installing such a pipeline yourself requires the use of special equipment.

Metal-plastic pipes are already better, as they resist corrosion well, are quite flexible, but nevertheless reliable. Such pipes should be connected using special fittings, which are expensive. If the wiring is done incorrectly, this can lead to pipe delamination.

Metal-plastic pipes are the most popular

Polypropylene pipes have their disadvantages. One of them is a high coefficient of thermal expansion. Many advantages from previous materials have been absorbed by cross-linked polyethylene pipes. But there are also significant disadvantages - the high cost and the need to use an expensive special tool.

Laying out water pipes

Regardless of what kind of installation is carried out and the choice of type of pipe routing, the main thing is to avoid a large number of bends in the pipeline and connecting nodes. Installation should begin by installing the control valve. Everyone knows perfectly well that water from the central water main is not of the best quality. Therefore, it is worth considering installing an additional coarse filter, which usually comes immediately after the valve.

Pipe routing

Next, the collector is installed if this wiring diagram is selected. The collector can have from 2 to 4 outputs. If necessary, several collectors can be combined into one system; it is only important to install a control valve at each output. When choosing a sequential circuit, the devices are connected to the water supply using tees.

If desired, you can install a counter and a filter for fine water purification.

Example of pipe routing

In some cases, you may encounter excess pressure in the water main. In this case, you cannot do without installing an appropriate gearbox and preferably with a pressure gauge. This will allow you to set optimal parameters for the functioning of the plumbing system. Usually it is 3-4 atm.

According to the existing diagram, you need to cut the pipes, taking into account the fact that some part of each pipe will be inserted into the fitting. Finally, all that remains is to solder the polypropylene pipes and secure them to the wall using the chosen method.

Sewerage layout

Work must begin with the most difficult section - the riser. The cast iron pipe is replaced with a plastic product of the same diameter. You need to start installing the riser by installing a tee. First you need to place a rubber cuff at the entrance and apply a layer of sealant, and then install the cross. Then a drain pipe is attached to the riser at a slope. When fastening, it is advisable to use clamps.

Finally, perform a test run to check for leaks. Their absence means that the work was done efficiently.

Correct sewerage layout

Sewerage installation in a private house

Plumbing installation

If the bathroom is quite spacious, then the order of installation is not important. Otherwise, you should start with large appliances (bathtub, shower). Before moving on to pipe routing, you need to do a number of preparatory work: dismantle all the old plumbing and prepare the surfaces. If necessary, tiles are removed not only from the walls, but also from the floor. After the surfaces are freed from cladding, they should be thoroughly cleaned.

If you plan to make a suspended ceiling in the bathroom, which is preferable for this room, then at this stage the frame is built.

Then the pipes are marked and laid out in accordance with the plan drawn up in advance. And only after this can you proceed to finishing surfaces and installing devices.

https://youtu.be/8jOI8k-KkUk

Sinks

In fact, installing a sink is not complicated; it all comes down to basic steps. It can be mounted on brackets or on a pedestal. The first case is the most common, although many people prefer the second option.

Sink installation

Bracket - in order to properly strengthen the sink using this method, it is necessary to mark it. Typically, the washbasin is usually located at a height of 80-85 cm from the floor. From this mark you need to measure a distance equal to the thickness of the wall mounting of the sink. The brackets will extend to this length.

Next, you should attach the brackets to the wall and determine what distance will be between them, making the appropriate notes. Holes for dowels are drilled along them and brackets are screwed in. After this, you can install the sink on the mountings. If everything is done correctly, the washbasin will not wobble. Now all that remains is to connect the siphon to the washbasin, and then install and connect the mixer.

Pedestal or cabinet - in this case, the sink can be supported on a tulip (leg) or it comes complete with a cabinet. You can also use brackets to hold the plumbing fixtures, but you can also make sure that the sink is held on the cabinet itself. Before installing the cabinet, you also need to mark the floor and wall.

Then you need to drill holes for the dowels according to the marks. Next, the sink is screwed to the wall using spacer washers and nuts. They should not be over-tightened, as the shell may crack. If necessary, a pedestal or cabinet can also be fixed to the floor. Finally, all that remains is to install the siphon and mixer.

Installing a tulip sink

Upon completion of all work, all connections should be checked for leaks. If a leak is detected, they should be treated with sealant.

Baths

Bathroom installation begins with dismantling the old plumbing. If necessary, lower the platform so that the bathtub stands level. Before installation, you should carefully study the instructions. The first step is to install legs or special stands, which are usually included in the package. If they are missing, they can be replaced with bricks.

Now you can connect the siphon with a sump to the tee according to the instructions. It is better to seal the connecting places with sealant to ensure better tightness. If you need to install a mixer.

Experts recommend grounding the bathtub for added safety! To increase the comfort of using the bathtub, its front part can be decorated. To do this, you can make brickwork or install special blinds.

Bath installation steps

toilet

Before installing the toilet, turn off the cold water supply and check the sewer inlet. It is worth noting that you should choose a toilet depending on the location of the sewer pipe. The receiver can be located in different ways:

vertical;
horizontally;
obliquely

The main stages of installing a toilet

Based on this, you should choose a model with an appropriate collector output. While working, you can cover the hole with a rag to eliminate any unpleasant odor. Having put the plumbing in place, make markings for the holes for the plastic plugs, first connecting them to the outlet pipe. Before attaching the toilet, it is advisable to apply silicone to its sole. Next, secure the plumbing fixtures with bolts and plastic washers, but do not tighten too much, otherwise the sole may crack. Allow the silicone to dry completely (4 hours is enough) and install the drain tank, securing it with screws, and then connecting a flexible hose to it. Now you can close the tank and check its operation.

When it comes to renovations in the bathroom, there is no way to do without replacing the water supply lines. Moreover, we are not always talking about dismantling old pipes and laying new ones in their place. As a rule, if the owner undertakes a radical arrangement of the bathroom, it involves improving the ergonomics of the usable space, combining or, conversely, separating the bathroom and toilet, installing modern plumbing and household appliances, and improving the design. Naturally, such events are associated with the laying of both new water mains and drainage lines. In short, a new pipe layout in the bathroom will be required.

How to develop a wiring diagram?

A professionally developed plan for transforming a bathroom is a key point in creating comfort and coziness in the home, in principle, so that in the end you get a single system, which means that all its elements must be “linked” together in such a way that the operation of each of them separately is maximized functional and efficient.

As for the bathroom, the right system in the bathroom, even with minimal overall dimensions, will turn it into a corner of comfort and relaxation. To begin with, a clear layout of all plumbing products to which this or that pipeline will be connected is developed. Here it should be noted that if the toilet is a separate room, then the pipework in the toilet should be carried out in conjunction with the bathroom.

Before you get acquainted with all the nuances of proper installation, we suggest looking at a clear example of a job well done.

Video: how to properly install pipes in the bathroom and toilet

Choosing the appropriate installation method

After carefully working out the sketch, where all the markings and dimensions are applied and a well-thought-out wiring diagram, you will have to think about how all this will be implemented in practice. In principle, there should not be any particular difficulties with this, since pipes can be separated in one of two ways - open or hidden.

The open method is when the communication pipelines are located outside. It is characterized by simple installation work, but the aesthetic parameters leave much to be desired. Even if all communications will pass as close to the floor surface as possible.

There is no need to talk about aesthetics - it’s definitely ugly

The hidden method means that the pipes are hidden in wall structures. Here everything is in order with visual perception - the highways simply will not be visible. But performing installation in this way is an extremely difficult undertaking. For example, gating will take a lot of effort. It is important to note that gating of walls during hidden wiring cannot be performed in load-bearing walls.

Upon completion of the finishing work, the pipes will not be visible at all

Hidden placement of water pipes requires particularly careful installation, because if a leak appears, it will not be easy to eliminate. For this reason, the best option is a system built using copper or polypropylene pipes - they are completely resistant to corrosion, so they can last longer than metal ones. It is not recommended to construct a hidden water supply system from metal-plastic pipes. During operation, you will need to periodically check and tighten the threaded connections of the fittings, which will not be easy to do on the main line hidden behind the external trim.

We continue to work with the wiring diagram, now we need to decide how the pipes will be physically laid: in series, manifold, with pass-through sockets. The latter is practically not used in everyday life, so we’ll leave it to the professionals. It’s better to take a closer look at the first two methods.

Consistently

The advantages of this option are that everything is extremely simple and clear: the pipeline is laid in stages, connecting one device to another. From an installation point of view, this is an excellent option.

There is only one drawback - during operation, uneven distribution of water pressure if several devices are used simultaneously.

With collector

This method involves installing a tap on each pipe leading to the device. This will ensure that repairs can be made without shutting down the entire system. Manifold wiring is the creation of a separate section of pipeline for each device. Ensures uniform distribution of water across water intake points. For a “beginner plumber,” however, this method may be too much for a “newbie plumber” - it requires a lot of patience and labor. Well, plus everything else, there is an increased consumption of materials.

This wiring is quite difficult to install - think about whether it’s worth taking on it yourself

Whatever option is preferred, in any case the following conditions must be met: the minimum possible number of connecting nodes and bends in the highways, as well as maximum integrity. Overlaps of cold and hot water lines are allowed only in exceptional cases with a complex water supply, and in general, the layout of water supply and drainage pipes should have a finished, laconic appearance.

Dead-end and closed circuit: pros and cons

The sequential and collector-beam circuits discussed above belong to the so-called blind (dead-end) methods of water supply wiring. In them, each water supply branch ends at a discharge point (dead end). This network configuration is good in terms of saving materials and space, but it loses in comfort when it comes to hot water supply. The water in the main will constantly cool down, so before you can take advantage of all the benefits of the hot water supply, you will have to pour several liters of liquid down the drain each time. It would seem that not such a big expense over the year will result in several wasted cubic meters. In addition, delaying the supply of water at the appropriate temperature wastes time and causes discomfort.

A water supply system with constant circulation of hot liquid will save several cubic meters of water per year

A way out of this situation can be found in the installation of closed-type wiring. A characteristic feature of this scheme is the constant circulation of hot water in a circle. Since it has a constant temperature at each point in the main, the consumer will receive hot water as soon as the valve is opened. The obvious advantage of this method is complemented by another advantage - the absence of sudden temperature changes, which is important specifically for hot water supply systems. It has a closed circulation circuit and disadvantages. A more intricate design complicates installation and requires additional costs of materials and equipment. So, when arranging it, you will need almost twice as many pipes, and in addition, you will have to install a separate circulation pump, which will ensure forced movement of liquid through the system.

Algorithm for performing installation work

The very first step, regardless of whether it is a hidden or open system, is to install a control valve. Considering the fact that the quality of the supplied water from their central water pipeline is, to put it mildly, unsatisfactory, installation is a mandatory step. It is installed immediately after the valve. Then a water meter is installed (optional).

If the pressure of the supplied water in the main exceeds the permissible limits, then a pressure reducer is installed. It is important to note that the gearbox must be equipped with a pressure gauge, through which parameters are set that will be most optimal for the operation of specific plumbing fixtures, usually 3-4 atm.

At the very end, the collectors are installed. In the retail network they are offered with outputs ranging from 2 to 4. If there is a need, the products can be combined. Ideally, the manifold should be equipped with shut-off valves. When connected in series, a tee is used to transfer to the devices.

What materials should I use?

It is quite difficult to answer this question unequivocally - there are a lot of influencing factors. Let's just say that the most popular among the consumer audience when creating sewer pipelines and cold water systems are PVC pipes. Where it is intended to transport hot water, preference should be given. A stainless steel heated towel rail will last longer than a brass one.

Mistakes when designing water supply systems

Novice plumbers often make a number of mistakes that make the installation of a water supply system more difficult and reduce its reliability. And although the mistakes made during the work are not critical, the danger of leaks is associated with such unpleasant factors as the appearance of mold and destruction of the finish.

So, here are a few of the most common mistakes.

The hot water supply system is installed using polypropylene pipes without internal reinforcement. If a hidden installation scheme is used, this is not a critical error. In the case where the wiring is visible, such an oversight can lead to a decrease in the aesthetics of the structure - pipes intended for cold water will “behave” when heated.
The system has insufficient shut-off valves or no check valves. Shut-off valves must be installed at the inlet of each branch and in front of all flow points, and check valves must prevent the flow of heated water from the hot main to the cold one.
There is no insulation of the hot water supply when it is hidden. Such “savings” lead to a drop in the temperature of the liquid along the way from the riser to the plumbing fixture. In addition, the appearance of condensation on the surface of pipes causes the spread of mold and damage to finishing materials.
When drawing up a wiring diagram, it is necessary to consider the location of the pipes so that they do not overlap the joints. Subsequently, this will save a lot of time and nerves when leaks occur or the need to carry out preventive work.
When designing a water supply system, the placement of sewer pipes is not taken into account, which can lead to difficult access during repairs.

In addition, it should be remembered that even the most ideally designed water supply system can cause a lot of trouble if its installation was carried out carelessly or in violation of technology.

You had the opportunity to get acquainted with what mistakes should not be made when installing pipes in the bathroom a little higher. Now we offer you to watch video material where complex collector wiring is done correctly.

The installation of polypropylene pipes in the bathroom and toilet includes a whole network of pipelines. Through them, cold and hot water is supplied from the central risers to the points where their water intake is carried out. Therefore, if you decide to take on the project and installation of pipes yourself, approach the work responsibly. Your actions directly determine how the water supply, sewerage, plumbing and household appliances will work. The tips in this article will help you make wiring according to existing rules.

Materials for water supply networks

In modern apartments the bathroom is located next to the kitchen. Therefore, water supply and sewerage are installed as a single system for the entire apartment. It is recommended to draw up a project before starting work. The plan indicates where the bathtub, toilet, sink, washbasin, boiler, washing machine, dishwasher, etc. will be located. This is necessary to determine how many pipes and fittings will be required. The project will help to rationally use the necessary materials and reduce the number of connections.

The following tips will help you arrange your equipment correctly.

Piping in the bathroom and toilet should be made using polypropylene, polyethylene, cast iron and PVC.
Consider what temperature a particular material is designed for (the indicator is usually indicated on the surface of the pipeline). Products made of polypropylene and PVC are not recommended for use in hot water supply and in places where hot wastewater is drained (water is drained from the boiler).
Give preference to stainless steel heated towel rails, which last longer than brass products.
For bathroom drains, plastic is considered the best option.

Polypropylene pipelines

Advantages of designs

Polypropylene pipes have the following advantages:

resist corrosion and do not become covered with growths, like cast iron products;
meet the requirements of sanitary standards;
have a long service life;
absorb noise and therefore operate silently;
due to the smooth surface they do not suffer from excessive pressure of liquids on the walls;
resist chemically active substances.

Product classification

Polypropylene products are classified depending on the possibility of their use in different temperature conditions.

The PN 10 marking indicates that the material is suitable for installing cold water pipelines.
The PN 20 marking confirms the suitability of pipes for the installation of cold and hot water collectors, and the products can be extended at temperatures above 60°C.
Reinforced pipes are used in the construction of heating systems. The linear elongation of such pipes should be minimal.

Piping in the bathroom

Even a beginner can do this kind of work. The main thing is to understand and put into practice the following recommendations.

Manifold piping in the bathroom

It is preferable to distribute water with polypropylene pipes than with other materials. They can be laid openly or walled up in the wall.
From the collector to the device consuming water, lay only a single pipe, without any connections.
For hot water supply networks, use designs that are designed to operate at high temperatures.
Do not forget to maintain the slope of the drainage system to ensure unimpeded waste flow (3 degrees or more).
To reduce the pressure drop in the water supply network in the bathroom, use a larger pipe diameter (at least 3/4 inch) for wiring. Ideally, the scheme provides that a separate pipe is supplied to each equipment.
Install a pressure reducer after the coarse filter. It eliminates pressure drops in main networks and regulates water pressure. To control it, a pressure gauge is used (the norm ranges from 3-4 atm.).
Consider the possibility of interruption of water supply in the event of an accident or the need to replace any device. To do this, install a shut-off valve (ball valve) after the riser.

Propylene water distribution

The distribution of polypropylene pipes begins from the last point, because the ball valve is installed first from the riser. The following requirements apply to it:

shut-off valves must be made of high-quality material;
the element must withstand pressure of 60 atmospheres or more and operate at temperatures up to 1500°C.

Pipe laying options

Laying pipes over the wall provides access in case of emergency

In practice, two methods of laying internal pipelines are used:

Open. The structures are fastened on top of the finishing material. In this case, you can notice damage in a timely manner and quickly fix the problem.
Closed. A separate section of the collector is hidden in a special box or can be walled up in a pre-prepared groove. With this method, the bathroom and kitchen look much more attractive.

System wiring methods

With hidden wiring, the room looks more comfortable

There are two ways in which household and plumbing fixtures and appliances are connected to the main water pipe:

Tee. With this method, consumption devices are connected to the network in series. To do this, branches are made from the main pipe and connected using tees. This scheme allows you to save on materials, but has a significant drawback. The pressure at the connection points fluctuates depending on the number of simultaneously connected equipment. To safely disconnect one of the branches, additional shut-off valves are installed on it.

Collector (parallel). In this case, the pipelines are connected to a manifold, which has one inlet and several outlets. The number of outputs is equal to the number of connected devices. A ball valve is installed in front of the manifold and at each outlet. With such a layout of polypropylene pipes, more material and labor are consumed, but there are no disadvantages of the tee method.

Installation work

As already mentioned, at the preparatory stage, a detailed layout of all sections of the distribution system and plumbing locations is developed.

After purchasing materials, shut-off valves and tools, installation work begins. Let's consider them using the example of a serial connection system.

Remove old pipes.
Cut out sections of polypropylene pipes according to the drawn up project and calculated data.
Connect the parts in the specified order using tees and couplings, and then weld using the polyfusion method.

Note! Before soldering, degrease the parts, place them in the welding machine and heat them to a temperature of 270°C. To connect pipes of different diameters, use adapter fittings.

Install shut-off valves.
Make channels in the walls and drill holes for attaching the water supply. For an open installation method, use fixing clips. Install additional fasteners near corners.
After completing the work, perform a test water supply to detect and eliminate any leaks in the system.

Despite its apparent simplicity, installing polypropylene pipes in an apartment requires skill and precision in execution. Enlist the help of a professional plumber the first time, and you will succeed. Good luck!

Video: plumbing installation

Laying pipes in the bathroom is a responsible job, but quite feasible with minimal technical knowledge and skillful hands. In addition, modern technology greatly simplifies the task. All that is required from the master is attentiveness, accuracy and careful adherence to technological standards.

Wiring planning

First of all, you need to decide on the necessary sanitary fixtures and communications for the bathroom.

These may include:

bath, shower - you will need to connect hot and cold water supply, as well as sewerage;
toilet (if we are talking about a bathroom combined with a toilet) - you need sewerage and cold water;
washbasin - sewerage, cold and hot water;
washing machine - sewerage and cold water supply.

Having decided on the consumers, we calculate the number of valves to shut off the water:

for hot water - one required valve;
for cold water - at least one valve;
there is one valve on the cold water supply path to the washing machine;
If desired, you can also install a valve on the cold water supply path to the toilet (useful for ensuring the functionality of the entire system in case only the tank leaks).

Pipe layout diagram

Having established the number of necessary plumbing fixtures, we begin to create a diagram. We determine the places where the devices will be located. Now you need to make the appropriate markings. If possible, before marking, we clear the room of plumbing fixtures.

Connection diagram of devices to water supply

We avoid crossing communications.
The water supply and sewerage systems should not be too far from each other, since it is better to cover these communications with one box.
All connections should be as accessible as possible for subsequent preventive or repair measures.

Do-it-yourself pipe routing in the bathroom should be based on the greatest possible simplicity of the design:

All main pipes must be laid below the floor.
It is recommended to connect all devices in series, avoiding intersections (this will prevent water blockages).
Water outlets go from the pipes through the tees perpendicular to the top.
Sewer outlets are not necessarily arranged on a vertical principle and are “tees” with flexible hoses included in them.

Water pipes

To assemble a polypropylene structure, you will need a special soldering device. The cost of such a tool is quite high for one-time work, so it is wiser to rent it for a few days at a hardware store. A similar service is provided by most stores that sell plumbing fixtures.

The process of soldering polypropylene pipes with a soldering iron

Working with a soldering iron is not difficult. However, in any case, you must follow the instructions included with the tool. The main rule is not to overheat the device. It is best to first practice under the supervision of a specialist. While one person heats up the structural elements, the other will hold the soldering iron, moving it to the side so that the assistant does not get burned.

To connect the pipes to each other, as well as to direct them in the desired direction, you need polyvinyl chloride fittings. You can buy them in the same place where pipes are sold. Fittings must exactly match the pipe diameters.

Please note: after soldering, all connections become permanent. Therefore, to remake them, you will need to cut off the damaged section. If the length of the pipe is not enough, you can extend it using a coupling.

The wiring ends with the attachment of the so-called “American” to the end outlets. “American” is a fitting that is connected on one side by soldering to a pipe, and on the other is connected by a threaded connection to a flexible hose.

Two methods of laying water pipes are used:

In the first case, the movement starts from the farthest plumbing fixture towards the main water riser.
In the second case, soldering starts from the water riser towards the plumbing fixtures.

Sewer pipes

Assembling a sewer system is easier and faster than installing a water supply system. You don't need a soldering iron to get the job done, as the pipes are simply inserted into each other (with or without fittings). In addition to ease of assembly, the sewer system is also distinguished by the ability to quickly disassemble and remodel, if necessary.

Basic principles of correct wiring:

The sewer pipes must be located at a slope from the plumbing fixture in relation to the main riser (minimum slope - 3 cm per meter). To ensure a constant slope, it is recommended to fix the structure to the wall using clamps.
The optimal diameter of pipes coming from the washing machine, bathtub, shower, washbasin is 50 mm, for sewage from the toilet - 110 mm.
The components of the sewer system must be connected so that the smaller diameter pipe is directed into a larger diameter pipe or fitting. The pipes must fit into each other to the maximum available depth.

It is permissible to install an additional “tee” in the sewer pipe, the top hole of which will be closed with a special plug. Thanks to this fitting, cleaning the sewer will be easier than in the case of a drain hole in a sink or the same hole in a bathroom. In this case, you must remember to leave free access to the fitting hole.

Important! When connecting sewer pipes to each other, rubber gaskets must be used. If you ignore this recommendation, wastewater will begin to seep through the connections and emit unpleasant odors.

Installation work can be greatly simplified if you adhere to the following rules:

Polypropylene is joined by welding. To do this you will need a special welding machine - a soldering iron. After we have cleaned the couplings and ends of the pipe, we connect the fitting to the mandrel. On the back side of the heater we join the pipe with the sleeve. We remove the tubes after holding for 5-6 seconds and direct one part to the other (and this must be done in a single and very clear movement, without axial rotation). After this, the seam is considered completed.
You can make marking easier using a special device made from a larger diameter pipe. For example, for a pipe with a 20 mm diameter, the planting depth is 15 mm. We take a pipe with a diameter of 32 millimeters and cut off a section 15 millimeters wide from it. We will use the resulting workpiece as a marking device. To make it more comfortable to work, you can solder a plastic bottom on one side of the ring.
For faucets, it is recommended to install plastic strips with MPB angles. We fix the planks to the supporting structure using self-tapping screws (take into account the thickness of the finishing material).
It is recommended to make the outlet pipes with projections. In this case, their optimal length can be further adjusted using sandpaper. The length of the protruding pipe should be calculated using the following formula: ½ the width of the side of the mixer cap plus the thickness of the finishing material, including tiles.
Pipes are installed in grooves using MRV (reducing coupling adapter with internal thread) and plastic inserts. You can also position the pipe exactly at a given location using a soldering iron.
It is not recommended to use a hot knife for cutting pipes. For this purpose, only a special device is suitable - a pipe cutter. At the same time, different types of pipe cutters are used for cutting plastic and metal-plastic products.
When bending metal-plastic structures, the rule applies: the bending radius should not exceed five outer diameters of the pipe. Too much bending (around 90 degrees) will lead to residual stress and will also reduce the passability of the part.
The general rule is to keep the design as simple as possible. It is better to do without unnecessary bends and knots. You should also avoid overlaps of cold and hot water supply lines.
For safety reasons, a check valve must be used.
Larger diameter pipes must be installed at the connection point. This will ensure normalization of pressure.
To create transitions, you need to use manifolds with tees and shut-off valves.
Particular attention should be paid to the water meter. This device has a factory seal. Without this seal, the inspection body will refuse certification. After the pipework is completed, the system can be used. But it is worth keeping in mind that cost accounting will have official significance only after the meter is sealed by the controlling organization.

So, regardless of where the pipe installation is carried out - in a new building or in an old house - there is nothing difficult in this work. The main thing is to choose the right material, prepare a competent wiring diagram and consistently follow the installation instructions.

When it comes to home renovations, you cannot ignore the installation of pipes in the bathroom and toilet. The wiring diagram must simultaneously provide a convenient location for plumbing fixtures, access to key components for repairs, and fit well into the current or future interior.

Often, when renovating old premises, it is necessary to replace worn out water risers and supply pipes. In this case, you may encounter certain difficulties due to the fact that not all outdated and faulty elements can be replaced with modern ones. Very often, new plumbing fixtures differ in installation dimensions, connecting thread diameters and mounting method. It is in such cases that it is necessary to provide a new scheme for the supply and connection of plumbing fixtures.

Pipe installation work is required if the bathroom is being equipped from scratch.

Let us examine in more detail the methods and rules for installing water pipes.

Development of a layout diagram for facilities and pipelines

The layout of connecting elements, taps, water meters and pipe elements will be absolutely necessary for a high-quality result. It will help you calculate the number of connections and outlets, determine where to connect plumbing fixtures and help save time and materials.

As a standard, the wiring diagram includes the following required elements:

Water meters;
Shut-off and control valves;
Filter elements;
Fittings (couplings, angles, water sockets, adapters);
Reducing valves;
Check valves;
Supply from the riser to the heated towel rail;
Sewer collector.

Having decided for yourself where the plumbing fixtures will be located, based on their dimensions, you calculate the length and diameter of the supply sections. After calculating the length of the sections and the number of additional parts, it remains to choose the appropriate type of wiring.

Types of pipe routing

At the moment, the following 3 types are recommended for plumbing work:

Collector(with parallel connection of each object to the main pipes);
Sequential(connecting each object to the main pipe through a separate tee);
With pass-through sockets(similar to serial, but instead of tees, sockets are installed).

The latest installation scheme is used only in private homes. It will require the installation of an additional pump for water boost and the laying of pipes of considerable length.

In apartments, the first two schemes are used; we’ll tell you more about them.

Collector wiring

Among the existing proposals for organizing water supply, this is the most reliable and practical. Each consumer is connected through its own supply pair; with the help of taps, the water supply to it can be adjusted or completely cut off at any time. The taps are located on one small manifold, which is hidden in a special cabinet. The supply pipes have a minimum of connections and can be laid hidden.

Of course, this option is quite expensive, because... Shut-off valves will be needed for each connection to the collector. The work itself is painstaking and will require precision calculation and execution, so it would be wiser to entrust it to an experienced craftsman. But the advantages are obvious: for servicing and repairing washing machines, faucets and other devices, you do not have to disconnect the entire bathroom from the water supply at once.

Daisy chain wiring

This type of pipe installation is suitable for rooms with a small number of consumers (common faucet for washbasin and bathtub and supply to the washing machine). It is convenient to implement a sequential scheme if finishing work has already been completed in the bathroom. Pipe laying when using this scheme is usually open. In a tee circuit, the pipes have a small number of connections and are arranged compactly. The assembly process itself is simple - you simply lay a line from one consumer to another, simultaneously removing supply pipes from the tees. This procedure does not require the consumption of a large amount of materials and additional expenses.

But when your bathroom has many water intake points (separate faucets for washbasin and bathtub, boiler, washing machine, toilet, dishwasher), the operation of this scheme becomes unsatisfactory. There may be a lack of water pressure for all consumers to operate simultaneously.

In both cases considered There are a number of nuances that are always taken into account when assembling a water supply diagram:

The number of connections should be minimal;
The pipe and couplings must be made of homogeneous materials;
It is advisable to insulate the pipes so that condensation does not settle on them;
Free access to detachable connections, filters and metering devices is required.

The correct choice of pipes and their varieties

When considering pipes for laying communications, keep in mind that different materials are adapted for certain operating conditions and significantly differ in price.

Thus, metal pipes are made of galvanized steel or copper. The former are characterized by good heat transfer and strength. The latter are more durable and easily take on given shapes, but at the same time they are the most expensive.

A cheaper alternative to steel and copper are plastic products. Plastic and metal-plastic pipes have almost completely replaced stainless steel pipes in the plumbing industry. Easy to process and durable, they have made it possible to achieve progress in the quality and speed of installation.

Among their advantages we note the following:

the pipes are easily connected by soldering, the connections themselves are resistant to pressure changes;
plastic is not subject to corrosion, the inner surface does not silt or become overgrown with limescale;
Polypropylene products are cheaper than metal ones.

It is worth noting that metal-plastic pipes are less plastic, brittle and do not withstand water hammer. Metal-plastic products are usually used in the assembly of sewage drains.

Hidden, open and combined methods of laying pipes

The wiring of communications in the bathroom can be organized in 3 ways.

External wiring. Occurs when it is impossible to hide pipes in the walls. This type of wiring allows you to constantly monitor the appearance of the connections and easily disassemble them in case of blockage or replacement of parts. It also costs less if installers are involved in the installation - from 7,000 rubles including materials.

Hidden wiring. Due to the fact that all connections and sections are hidden under the cladding, and only fittings for connections are brought out, this type of liner does not interfere with the interior design. The pipes are securely hidden in the walls and cannot be damaged by negligence. But the process of carrying out the laying work itself takes more time and labor. Before laying, the walls are tapped - channels are cut out for the placement of pipes. After laying, the walls are sealed while maintaining flatness. Before installation, the pipeline must be covered with casing in accordance with building codes.

As a result, the hidden installation method is noticeably more expensive than installing pipes from the outside (from 12,000 rubles). Well, if we talk about load-bearing walls, then gating on them is prohibited in principle.

Hidden installation is possible only with unfinished finishing work. With finished lining, only open and combined pipe assembly is possible.

Combined gasket consists of laying pipes along the surface of unlined walls, followed by installation of decorative false panels or boxes that hide the pipeline. This is a rather difficult method, since you will need to harmoniously fit the protruding parts of the box into the interior and maintain a cozy atmosphere in the room. This is where profiling the shape of the box using plasterboard and exterior finishing with tiles and decorative elements comes to the rescue.

Piping to heated towel rail

The supply pipes can be extended to the heated towel rail from the heating riser or from the hot water supply line. It is worth considering that when operating from a central heating system, the radiator will function only during the heating season. Also inserting taps into the heating system will require temporarily shutting off the supply to the riser, What housing and communal services representatives do for a fee. In winter, such work is not carried out at all due to the risk of freezing the pipe.

Therefore, it would be more rational to connect from a hot pipeline. At the same time, for convenience and saving hot water, we recommend installing a bypass jumper between the main line and the heated towel rail. It connects the forward and return pipes, and ball valves before and after the coil will allow you to cut off the heated towel rail in case it is replaced or to preserve heat.

When laying supply pipes, you need to accurately maintain 2 dimensions: the center-to-center distance of the pipes for connecting the radiator and the minimum distance from the bathroom wall. For radiators with pipe diameters up to 23 mm, it is 35 mm, for pipes with a diameter over 25 mm – 50 mm. In general, to connect a heated towel rail you will need 2-3 taps for the bypass jumper, 2 tees for the main pipe and outlets from it, 2 tees for the bypass and 2 adapter couplings for connecting the coil.

Layout of sewer pipes

The creation of sewer pipes is carried out taking into account a number of requirements for the normal drainage of wastewater and the prevention of water stagnation. These requirements are as follows:

The slope towards the drain collector is maintained. Its value is from 0.02 to 0.03 of the total length of the gasket.
During assembly, it is not allowed to place bends at right angles.
In areas before turns where blockages are possible, revisions should be installed - tees with a removable cover. If the installation is hidden, an inspection window must be left opposite the revision.
The diameter of the pipes should provide good drainage passage. Toilet bowls are connected to the manifold by pipes of at least 100 mm in diameter, and sinks and bathtubs are connected by pipes with dimensions of 50-75 mm;
When assembling, leave a margin for thermal expansion: the end of the pipe should not rest against the connection and not reach the bottom by 10 mm.

To obtain the required slope value, use a building level when marking the clamp fastenings

Do-it-yourself pipe laying and installation

With a ready-made pipe laying diagram and the chosen installation method, you can begin assembling the system. Please note that you will not be able to assemble steel and copper pipes yourself. Working with them requires skills in handling a welding machine and precision processing. Only an experienced professional can do this. Therefore, in this section we will describe the installation technique of polypropylene pipes. It is easy to learn and only requires strict adherence to the instructions.

Prepare all the necessary materials and tools for work:

Soldering iron for plastic pipes with nozzles of the required diameter;
Turbinka (grinder);
Pipe cutter or hacksaw for metal;
Hammer;
Sealing winding made of flax or tow;
Dowels with self-tapping screws;
Polypropylene pipes;
Adjustable wrenches;
Ball Valves;
Transition couplings, bends, tees.
Mechanical cleaning filters;
Pressure reducer.

Dismantling old pipes

You should start by dismantling previously installed communications. To do this, we shut off the water supply and distribute detachable connections to drain the water. We unscrew all threaded connections and remove old taps, couplings and tees. Elements that are still in good condition and do not have dirt inside will be quite suitable as spare parts. We cut the welded joints with a grinder. To get to areas hidden in the walls, use a hammer drill with a chisel.

If the fitting on the riser has a thread, we attach a new control valve to it, followed by a filter and a water meter. If the old pipe was attached by welding, then we step back 10-15 centimeters from the seam, cut off the pipe and cut the thread with a tool.

The pipes will be attached to the connecting elements by soldering. For soldering, first install the sleeves and barrels of the required size and turn on the soldering iron. The optimal temperature for soldering is 260 degrees; the corresponding mark is on the toggle switch of the device.

We advise you not to cut all sections of pipes in advance. It would be more correct to connect them in series so as not to miscalculate the size. We cut pieces of pipes with a pipe cutter or hacksaw. We clean the cut with a stationery knife from chips and burrs.

The heating time of the parts depends on the diameter and wall thickness of the pipes. You can independently find tables where it is normalized. Normally, 5-7 seconds is enough. The melted pipe or coupling rotates effortlessly on the sleeve or pin and is easily removed. After removing from the soldering iron, the two parts need to be connected instantly. You need to press it all the way, but without strong pressure. Within 3-5 seconds you can rotate the parts if you suddenly set them crookedly. Afterwards, the connected sections will seize completely and cannot be separated. For practice, it doesn’t hurt to practice on unnecessary scraps.

The pipes will be secured along the walls using plastic clamps. They, in turn, are pressed against the walls with self-tapping screws. Their design makes it easy to fix the pipe by snapping the lock and just as easy to release it.

Upon completion of installation, we will check the quality of the assembly. Open the cold water supply for a quarter of an hour. Then run hot water through it for the same amount of time. Carefully check the condition of threaded and soldered connections. In case of leaks, immediately replace the loose connection. In such a case, it would be useful to stock up on a couple more fittings.

Some tricks to make things easier:

Mark and drill holes for the dowels in advance and secure the clamps. There is no need to press the clamps tightly until you try the pipe on them.
To align the tees and corners evenly, try them on the pipe before soldering and make a mark with a marker.
The pipes can be soldered on the fly and the already assembled piping can be attached to clamps. The previous tip will help you collect everything accurately.

Safety precautions when laying pipes

In order to protect yourself when working, prepare your workplace - remove everything that prevents you from approaching the pipe installation sites. Before working in the bathroom, make sure there are no open electrical outlets or exposed wires anywhere nearby. After turning off the water in the riser, open the flow to all taps to make sure there are no leaks through the shut-off valve.

Working with a soldering iron will require caution to avoid burns and fire. Do not leave the soldering iron unattended; always place it on a special stand when not in use. Choose a place for it on a fireproof surface away from flammable materials and liquids.

Take care of your own health and safety. Get to work in workwear made of thick jeans with long sleeves and trousers. Wear good quality work shoes on your feet. Cover your hands with gloves made of durable fabric. To protect your eyes, wear safety glasses or a mask before working with a hammer drill.