When performing work related to the installation of plumbing or heating, it becomes necessary to cut threads on pipes. To do this, you can take a pipe and head to the metal rolling mill, where the threads will be cut in a matter of minutes. However, this method has not been relevant for a long time, since there are other options that do not require transporting the pipe to production.

Existing threading options

Pipe threads are divided into five types, but the most popular options are conical and cylindrical. Household members often encounter such types of pipe threads. There are two methods for threading a water pipe:

Automatic, which involves cutting threads on water supply pipes using special machines and power tools.
Manual. For this, special hand tools are used.

If, as part of his job, a person needs to cut threads on a large number of pipes, then it is appropriate to purchase a special power tool, which will facilitate manual labor.

When the need to obtain a threaded connection is an isolated case, then manual technology is suitable for such purposes. On water pipelines, as well as pipes of heating systems, thread cutting is performed using a die.

A die (another name for a die) is the simplest device intended for cutting external threaded connections on pipes.

The die is a steel disk, and its inner diameter has axial holes in different numbers, which depends on the size of the product. The edges of these holes form cutters, with the help of which thread cutting is performed. To ensure the reliability of such a tool, it is made of alloy steel or hard alloys.

Dies can have different shapes (round, square, hexagonal or prismatic), but most often disc options are used. Disc dies are intended for making threaded connections on water pipes. To make it convenient to work with the die, they are equipped with additional knobs, as well as clamps in the form of screws. Dies are also solid, split and sliding.

Solid dies for threading pipes have one significant drawback - rapid wear of the cutters. This is due to the rigidity of the product’s own design. Split or spring-loaded dies have a less rigid design, which significantly increases the service life of the product. Due to the spring-loaded mechanism, such a tool for cutting threads on pipes allows you to vary the diameter of the resulting threaded connections in the range from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. A device of this type is highly resistant to cutter wear, but is not capable of providing high accuracy.

Sliding dies are 2 working parts intended for installation in a mounting module. A die with a special fastening module forms a tool called a pipe clamp. The die is fixed in the die using a cracker and an adjusting screw. It is with the help of the adjusting screw that the thread diameter is adjusted.

Typically, pipe clamps are supplied complete with dies of various diameters. Having such a set, you can always cut threads on a pipe of any diameter.

How to cut a thread on a pipe with your own hands

To make threading on a pipe with your own hands, you initially need to perform a number of preparatory measures:

Carefully clean the tube in the area where you plan to get the threads.
Clean the end part of the product with a file.
Lubricate the working area to reduce resistance.

In order for the thread cutting process to be convenient and the end result to meet the requirements, before carrying out the action you need to secure the product in a vice. This will allow you to fix the part so that you can perform the necessary actions with both hands. After this, the following actions are carried out:

A wrench with a die of the required diameter is used, with which a rough pass is carried out. In this case, it is important to keep the die strictly perpendicular to the pipe.
The roughing pass is the basis of thread cutting, so do not rush and perform the actions slowly but efficiently.
A rough cut allows you to get 2-3 threads of thread. This is exactly how many threads are needed for the tool to take a secure position.
The next step is to twist the rough die and use the finishing die. With its help, the required number of threads is cut on a pipe that is planned to be installed in a water supply or heating system.
After each pass, you need to make 0.5 turns back to clear the cutting area from chips.
At the final stage, you should use the third die, which carries out a control pass.

When threading, it is important that all actions are performed slowly, and with each subsequent turn the cut area is cleared of metal shavings.

How to cut threads on a pipe near a wall

Often thread cutting needs to be done on site when the pipeline is fixed in one part to the water supply or heating system. In hard-to-reach places, it is impossible to cut threads on a pipeline installed near a wall using a die and a wrench. For such purposes, you will need to use a thread-cutting device such as a clamp with a ratchet. With its help, the thread cutting process is simplified several times.

The procedure for thread cutting with a manual die is carried out as follows:

A nozzle of the appropriate diameter is fixed in the clamp mount, after which you can begin the procedure itself.
The surface of the pipe - the working area - is cleaned.
The area to be cut must be cleaned until a metallic sheen appears.
A chamfer is made at an angle of 45-60 degrees.
The material is lubricated with Litol or Solidol.
The key is placed on the working area of the pipe.
Moderate back-and-forth rotations of the instrument are performed.

As with a die, when working with a die, you need to make half a turn back after each new thread to remove the metal edge. To facilitate the threading process, you can use an electric die, but it is rational to purchase such a tool only if you need to use it every day.

On pipes you can cut not only external but also internal threads, for which taps are used. However, the need to obtain threads on the inside of the pipeline arises only in rare cases. Knowing the features of self-threading, you will never have problems with the installation of water supply and heating systems.

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Quick and correct thread cutting on a pipe at home

From the time the first metal pipe appeared to this day, the threaded connection is deservedly considered the only reliable method among detachable options. There are now enough ways to cut threads, as well as tools, but despite this, quite often the novice owner does not know where to start. In this article I will tell you which tool for cutting threads on pipes is more suitable for home use and actually how to cut threads with your own hands.

A few words about what kind of thread there is

In theory, there are quite a large number of types of threaded connections, but I don’t see the point in going into this jungle, because most of these types are highly specialized and are mostly used in mechanical engineering, plus at home it is practically impossible to cut such a connection efficiently with a traditional tool.

Let's start with the simplest thing. The pipe thread itself can be external or internal. Here everything seems to me very clear. The external thread is cut from the outside of the pipe, respectively, the internal thread is made from the inside;
There is also a right and left hand thread. They differ in the direction of screwing the nut and fitting (in the case of the external version) or screwing in the screw (this is for the internal version). In the vast majority of cases, a novice owner needs a right-hand thread, this is when the nut is screwed clockwise. Naturally, in a left-hand thread the nut will be screwed counterclockwise;

The thread also varies depending on the purpose of use, the most common here are:
1. Mounting thread– considered one of the most durable, but it is relevant for connections with bolts; in pipes this option is less common;
2. The so-called running thread, we are not interested at all, it is used exclusively in mechanical engineering;
3. Since we are talking about pipes, and at home this is usually plumbing and heating, then we are interested in the fastening and sealing version of the thread. This connection is designed for tight joining. Often, any home device for cutting threads on pipes is designed specifically for this option.

You should also consider the thread pitch. This term refers to the distance between the vertices of the cones. In our great power, direct pitch measurement is accepted, that is, the exact distance between turns is indicated in millimeters. In the Western classification, you can find an indirect measurement of the pitch, this is the number of turns per fixed dimensional unit;
There is also a parameter called thread depth. This is the size of the tooth, that is, the distance from its top to the base. It is believed that the larger it is, the tighter and stronger the connection;

The configuration of the tooth when cutting threads can vary, but in home plumbing in the vast majority of cases you will encounter a tooth in the form of an isosceles triangle.

When you are about to start working, first of all, you need to figure out what kind of measurement system you need. The fact is that there are metric and inch systems; more often we have the metric one, but in cases with imported plumbing fixtures you can also use the inch measurement:
1. In the metric system, all parameters are indicated in millimeters. The tooth in section has the form of an isosceles triangle with an angle of 60º. As a rule, it goes with smaller steps;
2. In the inch system, all dimensions of mating parts are indicated in inches (1 inch equals 25.4 mm). Just here, the pitch can be set by the number of turns per inch. The tooth shape in inches is the same, only the angle is 55º. Often the profile of an inch thread is larger and the pitch is larger. Many people claim that this thread is stronger, but personally I didn’t notice much of a difference.

In the table I have collected the characteristics of some common models.

Thread pitch standards		Metric pipe diameter		Thread size in inches "
Metric system	Inch system (number of turns per 1 inch)	Interior	Outer	Thread size in inches "
2.309 mm	11 v/d	84.930 mm	87.887 mm	3″
2.309 mm	11 v/d	72.230 mm	75.187 mm	2.1/2″
2.309 mm	11 v/d	56.659 mm	59.616 mm	2″
2.309 mm	11 v/d	44.847 mm	47.805 mm	1.1/2″
2.309 mm	11 v/d	38.954 mm	41.912 mm	1.1/4″
2.309 mm	11 v/d	30.293 mm	33.250 mm	1"
1.814 mm	14 v/d	24.119 mm	26.442 mm	3/4″
1.814 mm	14 v/d	18.632 mm	20.956 mm	1/2″

What and how to cut threads on pipes

In fact, at home there are not many options and the instructions are often similar, but small nuances still exist.

In theory, in order to get the highest quality result, you need a lathe for cutting threads on pipes. But a lathe is an expensive thing and is rarely found in home workshops. Plus, such exceptional accuracy and purity are not needed under normal conditions, so further we will talk about more affordable and simpler options.

Good old dies

Dies are deservedly considered the most common device for cutting external threads not only on pipes, but also on any cylindrical rods. The price of one die now starts from 68 rubles, but it is not profitable to buy them individually; here it makes sense to purchase at least a minimum set for cutting threads on pipes. The standard version includes the running dimensions of the dies, plus a die holder for work.

In our country, the configuration of dies, as well as any tool, is classified according to GOST. When choosing, it would be a good idea to pay attention to the presence of such designations.

So the die for round threads is made according to GOST 13536-68, conical thread GOST 6211-81, metric thread GOST 9150-81, inch thread GOST 6111-52, cylindrical thread GOST 9740-71.

In imported products, there may not be a reference to our GOST; in this case, you need to pay attention to the grade of steel from which the cutters are made; often such markings are applied directly to the die. So for pipes made of ordinary steel and non-ferrous metals, “P18” or “P9” is suitable. But to work with stainless steel, you will need alloyed tool steel grades, such as “KhVSG” or “9HS”.

Actually, the dies themselves come in two types:

Conventional round ones are made of solid metal and have clearly fixed dimensions; each die is designed for cutting only one thread diameter. They are the most comfortable and durable;
Sliding dies, also called lerks, consist of two separate cutters that are inserted into a special adjustable die holder. Although at first glance such a tool may seem universal, I do not advise you to buy it. Firstly, a monolithic die has at least 4 cutters, while a sliding die has only 2. And secondly, a sliding die holder is unreliable; it “looses” over time.

The dies fixation system is extremely simple. There are fixing screws around the perimeter of the die holder. The end of any die is equipped with special recesses and grooves into which these screws fit. As soon as you fix the die, it is considered ready for use.

In addition, there are rough and finishing dies. The rough version is intended for the initial “run”; here about 70% of the metal is removed. During finishing, the remaining 30% is cleaned and the thread is brought to perfect condition.

Before you start cutting, the pipe needs to be prepared. This is not a difficult matter. To begin with, you should cut off the edge exactly, that is, strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe.

After this, the entire planned cutting length must be cleaned to a metallic shine. It is not so important what you use to clean the pipe with sandpaper or a file, the main thing is that it “shines.”

To carry out any such work you need lubrication. Moreover, it must be applied both to the pipe itself and to the die cutters. Classic instructions recommend using strictly machine oil.

But from personal experience I will say that it doesn’t matter much. You can lubricate with anything, a “spindle”, grease, used machine oil and even lard or sunflower oil.

Next, the pipe needs to be secured somehow. It’s great if you have a vice, but if you don’t have one, you can use clamps. In difficult conditions, even a gas wrench will do, but it will be difficult to work in a canopy without dexterity.

Before “setting” the die on the edge of the pipe, you will need to chamfer this very edge with a file. Otherwise, it will be difficult for you to get a grip, and the thread may become crooked.

You have done everything that was needed, now you can proceed directly to cutting the thread.

To do this, put the die on the edge strictly perpendicular to the pipe and, with light pressure, begin to turn the die holder in the desired direction. For right-hand threads - clockwise. For the left it's the opposite. If the tool is of high quality, it will catch immediately.

When cutting any thread, the same pattern is used. After turning the tool 2 - 3 turns forward, you need to unscrew one or at least half a turn back. This is necessary in order to knock down the chips, otherwise you will damage the tool.

This is approximately how a thread is cut using a die. When you have cut to the planned point, I recommend running the die a couple more times along its entire length, and then removing the remaining chips and lubricating it again. Next, you can try screwing on the nut or fitting.

What is a clump and how does it work?

Klupp, or as some ignorant citizens also call it, a pipe threading club is, in essence, a modern modified model of a die. At the moment, there are two types of this tool. The first is an electric die, the second option is purely manual. But they differ not only in the presence of an electric drive; there is also a difference between them in purpose and scope of operation.

The electrical modification is a very convenient thing. No special effort is required here, everything is extremely simple, put the guide sleeve on the end of the pipe, set the operating mode and press the button. The device will do all the work for you. But not everything is as elegant as it seems.

Firstly, the price for such pleasure starts at about 33 thousand rubles. And what’s more sad is that such a voluminous thing cannot be reached everywhere. For example, lines running close to the wall are not accessible to him due to the large size of the head. An electric clamp is best suited for large volumes when installing new routes, where it is possible to clamp the workpiece in a vice and work quietly.

There are 2 varieties of this tool: No. 1 and No. 2. The first number is a mobile portable electric clamp that can work with pipes with a diameter of up to 40 mm. The second option is designed to work with pipes from 40 mm to 2 inches, as you understand, the dimensions there are completely different, in fact it is a small machine for cutting threads on pipes.

A manual clamp is already more affordable in price; one head here costs about 700 rubles, and a running set for cutting threads on pipes starts from 14 thousand. As standard, in addition to the threading heads themselves, there is a so-called ratchet with a collapsible, extending lever. The ratchet itself is equipped with a switching mechanism for screwing the cutting head in one direction or another.

The manual mechanism, like its electric counterpart, has two modifications, No. 1 can cut threads from half an inch to an inch and a quarter. With the second number you can already cut threads up to one and a half, and sometimes even up to two inches, although you will have to work hard.

Separately, I would like to say about the replaceable attachments for the clamps. Unlike conventional dies, they have such a useful device as a guide pipe.

In fact, this is just a piece of tube with a diameter slightly larger than the working one. But with it, even if the pipe is not cut completely straight, the thread will in any case be cut clearly and evenly. However, later problems may arise with screwing the nut on.

In addition, the vast majority of clamp attachments are collapsible. If you remove the top cover, you will find four replaceable cutters. And having bought such a nozzle once, you can easily change damaged cutters, which is much cheaper than buying a new, solid die.

The technology for cutting threads with a die is approximately the same as with a conventional die. First, lubricate the pipe and the cutting mechanism itself. After this, you need to check the direction set on the ratchet clamp.

As I already mentioned, the ratchet has a lock with a ring and an arrow. So this arrow indicates the direction of cutting.

Next, we clean the pipe, remove the chamfer from it, put on the guide pipe, press lightly and begin cutting. After two turns, we take the lock ring, lift it and turn it 180º so that the arrow points in the other direction. This is necessary to turn the head half a turn back to remove chips.

Then turn the head of the clamp back over and cut the thread further. And so on until you finish. In the electric version, everything is much simpler, where to change the direction of rotation you just need to switch the toggle switch.

If the tool is new and the teeth are sharp, the threads may become loose. There’s nothing scary here, you’ll just have to wind more fum tape or tow.
It is much worse if the turns are undercut, in which case there is a real possibility of damaging the thread of the fitting.

Internal thread cutting

To be honest, if you were able to cut an external thread, then internal threading will not be difficult for you. From a budget perspective, compared to outdoor views, this is a mid-range option. The price for a normal tap is approximately 300 - 400 rubles, to which you need to add the cost of a driver, about 150 - 200 rubles.

The steps here are similar. Since the inside of pipes is extremely rarely painted, it is quite possible to do without the cleaning step. But in any case you will have to lubricate the surface and the tap.

As for the chamfer, according to the rules, it can be removed with an ordinary round file. But personally, I have never done this, the tap will not go anywhere anyway, it simply has nowhere to go in the pipe.

But here it is advisable that you use exactly a pair, that is, a roughing and finishing tap. In the draft model, the end is more beveled and it easily clings to the pipe walls. It’s even easier to run a finishing tap along the thread and make the thread perfect.

To make it easier for you to understand the markings on the taps, I have compiled a correspondence table for the most popular models.

Inner diameter of pipe or hole (mm)	Thread markings
1,6	M-2
2,2	M-2.5
2,5	M-3
3,3	M-4
4,2	M-5
5,0	M-6
6,0	M-7
6,7	M-8
8,5	M-10
10,2	M-12

And do not forget that the technique of cutting internal threads is no different from external analogues. The same 2 - 3 turns forward and half a turn back to remove chips.

Conclusion

As you can see, cutting any thread on a standard metal pipe is not particularly difficult. The photos and videos in this article contain additional information on the topic of cutting various types of threads. If you still have questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

July 22, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Currently, plastic or metal pipes are mainly used for laying water supply systems.

Plastic products are connected to each other, as a rule, by welding (a special welding machine is used for these purposes).

Metal pipes are joined with threaded fittings, in this case the connection is as strong as possible.

Plumbing Repair Basics

Not many people have thought about how it connects.

It consists of:

pipes,
valves,
valves
taps and other components.

All this is assembled into a single system using threaded connections.

In order for the process of replacing an old part It didn't take long to get a new one, and the threads exist.

Sometimes you have to deal with cases when you yourself have to change a worn-out element (for example, a pipe), but there are no grooves on it.

What to do in this case?

The way out of this situation is very simple - cut the thread with your own hands. The ideal option is when you have the opportunity to use a lathe.

But not every home craftsman has such equipment.

It is expensive, and in order to use it you need to have certain experience and skills.

If you need to equip the pipe with threads, for example, to connect a membrane tank for water supply (written), you can use one of two types of devices designed for cutting grooves:

thread cutting table,
pipe wrench.

With this tool cut threads in water and sewer pipes (read why you need a water seal), which are used in utility networks of multi-storey buildings and private buildings.

Note! If you do not have any experience in this matter, then working with a lecher will be very difficult for you. Since even the slightest misalignment of the tool will invariably lead to the formation of a defect.

In this case, it is best to use a wrench; the cutting process with its help is simplified by the presence in the design of such an important part as a guide.

To avoid damaging the water pipe, to acquire a certain skill, practice on an unnecessary piece of a hollow object.

Now let's try to refresh our memory about what the thread cutting process is:

In order for the junction of water pipes to be waterproof, durable, and the unit to withstand high pressure in the system, it is necessary to cut the threads so that the pitch exactly matches the pitch of the joining parts.

Tools used for these purposes

Before you begin, you need to make sure that you have all the necessary equipment at hand.

Pipe threaders are sold in stores e sets. These can be dies of the required diameter or a set of clamps (this option is more practical).

First of all, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the pipe from rust and remnants of old paint.

From the end surface of the pipe you need to remove the thread lead.

It is extremely important to know! The tool for the job must be of high quality.

Tape measure and pencil necessary for marking.

Without caliper you will not be able to correctly determine the cross-section of pipes and accurately select the tool.

It is necessary to mark the pipes extremely, carefully and, as much as possible, carefully.

If you make even the slightest error in the measurements, the device will turn out incorrect, and as a result you will have to make a new design.

Grinder or hacksaw for metal.

These devices cut the pipes according to the markings made earlier.

Important condition! The cut in relation to the walls of the pipe should be strictly perpendicular. Otherwise, the threaded connection, for example, with, will not be tight.

A device for clamping and holding an object during processing - a vice. With their help, you can cut the pipe as smoothly as possible.

Lubricant material (this can be machine oil).

By cutting a hollow object by hand, you can make your work much easier. To do this, you need to lubricate the end of the pipe and the tool with a special compound.

You will need glasses to protect your eyes.

When cutting grooves, metal shavings are formed. If it gets into your eyes, it can cause severe damage.

A tool designed directly for applying threads to pipes:

set of dies,

klupp,

tap.

In order not to make a mistake in choosing the right device, you need to take the type of thread as a basis and rely on the preferences of the master.

External threads are applied using a die, and internal threads are applied using a tap.

How to make a clump correctly

The process should occur according to the following structural diagram.

You need to choose a suitable cross-section. To accurately select equipment, you must use a caliper.

Prepared pipe section and the inner surface of the tray must be lubricated with machine oil.

A die is inserted into a metal pipe; a holder is used for this (it is included in the kit for cutting grooves on pipes).

If you are performing initial pipeline assembly or you decide to install a faucet for a drinking water filter (written), then the hollow object should be fixed in a vice - this will make the work easier.
When reconstructing a water main, threading is done directly on the installed pipe.

After all the preparatory measures have been completed, it is necessary to insert a tap of the appropriate diameter into the pipe opening, and then rotate its base clockwise.
For this purpose, use a wrench, which is included in the tool kit.

Chips form on the grooves, it needs to be deleted.

How?

It is necessary to make several turns around the pipe, and then move the device 90 degrees in the opposite direction.

At the end of the work, the remaining oil should be wiped off with a clean rag.

Grooving with a die
This type of threading device is:

round configuration.
In order to cut threads into pipes of various sections, they use dies of different sizes;

sliding.
This part is used for cutting grooves on hollow objects of different diameters.
The sliding die is operated using a special holder.

This tool model is used more often. The reason is the low cost of the product.

Before you start working When using a die (die), it is necessary to prepare the pipe using the method described above.

Only after this should you proceed to the procedure according to this scheme:

At the first stage, use roughing lecterns(they cut through the pipe clearly).

But with their help you will not be able to achieve maximum carving accuracy. The final cutting is done using a finishing blade.

Cutting the internal thread

What do I need to do.

Prepare the opening carefully.
The hole must be clean, free of foreign coatings and deposits.
Then, it must be lubricated.

Select a tap by diameter.

Secure the tool in the hole.
Remember that the vertical position of the threading device must be strictly observed.

The tap must be rotated clockwise.

It is important to know! The manufacturer must apply markings to each die.

It specifies all the sizes of the grooves that can be cut using this tool.

Before you start work (watch the video on how to lay sewer pipes in different ways), you should carefully study this data.

If you need to cut threads on stainless steel pipe, you'll have to work a little harder.

Since stainless steel is a very hard material, the task becomes significantly more complicated.

In this case, you will have to buy a die that matches the steel grade.

Markers with branding - P9 are suitable for this purpose..

Important point! If the die is selected incorrectly, then, in the end, you may be left not only without a thread, but also without a tool.

Basic reasons for marriage

No one is immune from the fact that the result of your work will be marriage.

What could be the reason for its occurrence?

Hole section mismatch or rods of cut grooves.

Using poor quality tools(blunted or misaligned).

Do not use lubricants during operation.

Lack of professionalism.

conclusions

There is nothing difficult about cutting a thread on a pipe yourself.

There are no tricks to this.

The main thing is to have a special tool at your disposal.

Perform all actions carefully and slowly. And one more thing you shouldn’t forget:

In order for you to succeed, you need to have desire, and skill is an acquired skill.

You can do any homework yourself, the main thing is to find the right approach to it. This way you can save money from the family budget.

Master class from a home craftsman who took up threading a pipe for the first time - watch the video.

In order to connect metal (and other) pipes together, you can go in two ways: simply weld them, or fasten them with threads. Both methods are good in their own way and have their own advantages. At the same time, cutting threads on pipes is a difficult task only at first glance. With the proper skill and the desire to master this “wisdom,” it will turn out that in fact there is nothing particularly difficult about it.

What set of thread cutting tools will you need?

To cut threads on pipes, you must purchase the appropriate tool. This is the so-called pipe threading set.

How to make a thread using a clamp

It cannot be said that the die is in any way inferior in terms of functionality to the threaded die. Moreover, it is one of the more universal tools, with which you can apply threads to a wide variety of pipes - both in diameter and material.
Structurally, the die consists of a special holder, inside of which there are grooves for placing a replaceable cutter in them. The advantage of the clamp is that there is no need to apply excessive effort. Working with it is more convenient and safer. There are guides inside the holder that make work easier, on the one hand, and on the other, improve the quality of the final result.

Note! If you choose a more modern model, it will be equipped with a ratchet, which also increases the cutting accuracy and speeds up the process.

In order to cut a pipe using a clamp, you will need to do the following:

Thread cutting die are simple cutters made of particularly strong, reliable and expensive tool steel.

Fix the pipe, previously cleaned of rust and paint, in a vertical, stationary position in a vice;
Install the die into the holder of the required size;
Apply lubricant to the clamp and to the pipe being treated;
Insert the pipe into the guide inside the holder;
Start rotating the handle of the device in a clockwise direction, applying the thread. During the process, you will also need to ensure that the surface of the pipe is lubricated. If necessary, the lubricant must be updated.

As soon as the threading is completed, the die is turned back out, then it will need to be turned again towards the thread for greater guarantee.

It is even easier to master working with a die than with a die. But even in this case, you will first need to practice on rough material, so as not to immediately spoil a good finishing workpiece.
Recently, it has become possible to purchase electric clupp models. The presence of an electric drive in this device provides both higher operating speed and less effort on the part of the operator. There are no fundamental differences in operation from a manual clamp. Before starting work, it will also be necessary to properly treat the metal pipe - clean and degrease. Then you will need to secure the pipe - this is usually done using the supplied clamp that comes with the device. Then just press the engine start button. In this case, the use of separate vices is not required, which simplifies the work with the electrocluster. After all, it itself can be attached directly to the pipe.

The power tool is used for cutting threads on steel pipes with a diameter of up to 2”

Which of these methods to give preference to – this choice, as always, remains with the user himself. It must be said that no device, even the most modern, can guarantee perfect cutting. In any case, responsibility for the final result will largely lie with the master himself.

The main reasons why defects may occur during slicing

Even the most experienced craftsman is not immune from manufacturing defects. However, if you carry out your work carefully and strictly follow all recommendations, the likelihood of material rejection is significantly reduced. Beginners especially should not rush and strive to complete everything as quickly as possible. If the marriage did happen, then this is not a reason to panic. You need to analyze your actions and try to determine the most likely cause of its occurrence. Mainly these are:

Oleg Vadimovich Strukov, master installer: Thread sizes can be specified in both millimeters and inches. The first option is almost always used in the case of all kinds of fasteners. But plumbers usually deal with inches.

Mark A., master installer: Most often, clockwise threads are used. Accordingly, the tool for applying it will also need to be rotated clockwise. But there are types of connections that require reverse movement - that is, counterclockwise. This must be taken into account for some types of technical structures.

Results

Although the cutting procedure is quite easy for anyone to master, if there are concerns that you will be able to do everything yourself, the best option would still be to seek help from specialists.
In addition, it is not always advisable to purchase specialized equipment for one-time use.

Having a personal home in our time is a great success. It does not matter whether it is an apartment or a private house. In any case, the owner feels solid ground and confidence in the future. As a rule, in your own home you have to do a lot of work yourself. Well, for this you definitely need to have a personal instrument. Very often, owners of private houses are faced with the creation of gas and water pipes. It should be noted that this procedure requires not only skills in working with a welding machine. Very often it is necessary to create detachable connections for further disassembly of communications when repairing and replacing certain elements. But how to cut threads on a pipe? Today we will try to give a full answer to this question.

What is cutting called?

Before considering methods and tools, let's figure out what this process is called. Cutting is the special mechanical processing of workpieces in order to obtain cuts on the outside or inside. The very result of the process consists of protrusions-coils and special grooves, twisted into a spiral, and alternating with each other.

Depending on where the thread is cut on the pipe, different tools are used. This process is performed on the following elements:

nuts;
bolts;
pipelines with a detachable type of connection;
parts of various equipment and mechanisms.

In turn, cutting can be internal and external. In this case, as is already clear, different tools and devices are used. Let's look at all the techniques in as much detail as possible, and start with the technique for creating an internal view.

Internal view

You need to cut the internal thread on a pipe with a special rod called a tap. It, in turn, is inserted into a special knob. The tap consists of a front (intake) part, which is located at its end, a calibrating part (the middle of the head) and a tail with a square profile for normal retention in the device.

It must be said that when converting from the metric system to the imperial system, three types of taps must be used, which cut at different depths.

The internal thread cutting technology assumes the following sequence:

The tap must be selected according to the cutting pitch on the element that will be screwed into the pipe.
Next, the tap is inserted into the driver;
The tap is positioned strictly along the longitudinal axis of the pipe so that everything is cut evenly and without bevels;
Squeezing the cutting element and the end of the tap together, you need to turn the knob;
Cutting is done to the marked depth with a small margin.

The process itself is much better performed on a machine, where the tap is inserted into a three-jaw chuck, and the element in which the cutting will be performed is fixed on a movable bed. This ensures exact alignment of the axes. Doing this manually is much more difficult. But, if the connection is not very responsible, then you don’t have to bother.

External type

External threads are created on bolts, rods and screws using a die. This is a special device in the form of a washer that has a hole in the middle. Dies are divided depending on their design into:

solid;
sliding;
prismatic;
round.

Solid devices are washers with a constant diameter, and they cannot be disassembled. Those. For each rod size you need to use different devices.

Sliding types, unlike solid ones, can be used with small changes in the diameter of the rod. At the same time, they are fastened in a clamp so that all the numbers on the parts fully correspond to the numbers on the frame itself. Also, a special plate is placed between the stop and the die, which prevents the housing from cracking from pressure.

Prismatic types are used when cutting on 32 pipes and other common diameters. They consist of two detachable parts, on which there are grooves on the outer sides.

The round die is installed in an easy-to-hold wrench and may have one or more special places for stop screws.

The most practical among these types is the sliding type. Due to the ability to change the internal diameter, it can cut on a wide variety of elements that do not exceed the general cross-sectional size.

It is advisable to say that cutting on a stainless pipe is quite difficult, since this type of steel has high hardness. Other metals can be easily processed by hand, which saves time and money.

What thread should I use?

When creating a detachable connection for water and gas communication elements, cylindrical pipe threads are used. As a transition element between them, special bends are used, which have an internal thread.

The last two turns, which are cut on the elements, are called runaway. They allow you to wedge the coupling in such a way that a rigid and durable connection is obtained, and using sealing material you can achieve complete tightness.

Most often, a long type of cylindrical thread is cut. The reason for this is frequent leaks through leaks and at the same time they are not visible to the naked eye. Water communications, unlike gas ones, can have a short cut type. It is also very widely used on large diameter elements to reduce the time required for twisting and cutting.

There are also cases when the turns are not cut, but rolled. This method is used in thin-walled communications for gas supply and heating systems. In this case, the critical wall size is allowed to be significantly smaller than when cutting.

Tools used

Today, the following types of clamps are used for external threads:

pipe (usual type);
Maevsky's clamps;
ratchet

Conventional clamps are used when creating coils with your own hands. They are also used for small volumes of work performed. When cutting, sliding and non-sliding dies are used.

Pipe fittings are manufactured in two types:

for diameters from 15 to 20 mm;
for diameters above 25 mm.

The instructions for cutting with pipe clamps are as follows:

First you need to clamp the pipe in a vice, or clamps.
Next, its end must be cleaned of rust and other contaminants.
The cleaned end is lubricated with drying oil.
Next, a clamp is put on the pipe and, using blows with a mallet, it is seated in place.
Once you are sure of the correct location, you can begin rotating to cut grooves to the required limit.

You can also often find such a device as Mayevsky clamps when creating coils. Dies for it are produced in two versions: No. 1 (15 and 20 mm) and No. 2 (25 and 32 mm). For other diameters, it is best to use the usual, above-mentioned clamps.

Among the advantages of Mayevsky's die, it is fashionable to highlight light weight, simplicity of design, ease of maintenance and the ability to hot-swappable dies. It should be noted the importance of accurately installing them in accordance with the marks.

The ratchet type of this tool is used for element diameters of 15, 20 and 25 mm. For maximum convenient use, such devices use a ratcheting mechanism, which allows cutting on elements that are located in hard-to-reach places. With a diameter of less than 25 mm, everything is done in one pass. In other cases, a double pass is required.

Features of care

When using clamps when cutting threads yourself, you must carry out proper care of this tool. So, upon completion of the work performed, they need to be disassembled and completely cleaned of chips and other unwanted contaminants. Next, it is recommended to lubricate the entire body with mineral oil so that rust does not appear on it and the rubbing parts “stick” to each other.

A prerequisite is to clean the instrument from dust and dried oil approximately once every 2-3 weeks, so that in the future the instrument does not crunch when used. To perform this procedure, experts recommend using the following technique:

Using a rag, everything is cleaned of visible contaminants that appeared while it was lying there.
Next, a caustic soda solution is made. The proportions are taken as follows: for one ten-liter bucket of warm water, 0.5 kilograms of dry matter is calculated.
Before washing, you should completely disassemble the instrument.
After the procedure, all parts are lubricated with oil and collected in a pile. It is advisable to then wrap the instrument in a rag or polyethylene to further protect it from contaminants.

Clips with dies should be stored in a dry place and closed. A small layer of lubricant will reliably protect the metal from rust and significantly extend its life.

To summarize and figure out how to cut a thread on a pipe, we can say that this procedure is performed using taps and dies. The first ones have no types and are selected separately for each internal diameter of the pipe. Dies can be either standard sizes, without the ability to change the diameter of the threaded hole, or with interchangeable values. Everything here depends on the type and type.

With the help of special devices called clamps, the cutting process can be significantly simplified. But, for normal operation, mandatory care of all instruments is required. They must be clean, lubricated and always ready for use. To do this, it is recommended to carry out prophylaxis once every 2-3 weeks.