Over many years of backbreaking labor, the engineers of the Izhevsk Mechanical Plant suffered through four main models of air rifles for the broad masses of consumers. This is a classic IZH-38, target IZH-60, rechargeable IZH-61 and reinforced MP-512. There was also IZH22, but this is a separate conversation; a separate article can be written about it. Rifle IZH-38 It has served faithfully for many generations of air rifle enthusiasts, but now it is probably the least purchased rifle. She has no precision IZH-60, no multi-charging IZH-61 no strength MP-512. In principle, they were all made quite well, only now, with the transition to new “space technologies”, bullshit has appeared with plastic bodies and barrels with extremely vague rifling. But even in ancient times, “wonderful” plastic stocks appeared. They did not rot, did not crack and, most importantly, were very cheap. And few people think that an air rifle is still a rifled weapon and that accurate shooting requires a comfortable and, most importantly, rigid stock. Owners especially suffer IZH-60.61 And MP-512. At the butt IZH-60.61 there is a disgusting feature of bending when reloading the rifle and for most users it is too short, and the butt MP-512 Not only is it short, but it also has the wrong recoil angle and tends to jump off the shoulder when fired. All the stocks are also somewhat light for accurate shooting from rifled weapons. If small batches IZH-38 And MP-512 are produced with wooden stocks (although, in my personal opinion, they are even more inconvenient and impractical than plastic), then people who prefer IZH-60.61, are completely deprived of the ability to hold durable and pleasant-to-touch wood in their hands. I devoted quite a lot of time to the development and manufacture of stocks for air guns. Below are photos IZH-38, MP-512 And IZH-60.61 with stocks of my design and manufacture.
There is already quite a lot of information on the modernization of pneumatics on the internet, some is nonsense, some is interesting. In principle, the only thing I can offer that is new is to increase the initial speed of the bullet in IZH-60.61 This is a way to increase the length of the mainspring. After the purchase IZH-60.61 I immediately remove the part blocking the cocking lever; it is of no use, it just gets in the way. After removing this piece of iron, we will see that we can mill out deeper the place where the mainspring rests to a depth of 12 mm, which is 4 turns on a spring of 2.8 mm wire (the spring is from MR ki), plus the installation of an additional internal spring, the guide/weight can be made from an 8mm rod with a washer made from a yellow ruble from 1992, it is screwed to the rod flush-mounted with an M4 screw. Of course, it is better to supplement these operations with sealing the rammer (if poisoning). Now mine IZH-61 gives initial speed to the bullet Umarex 0.5 grams 175 m/s(measurement with a ballistic pendulum).
But all this is poetry, and now I decided to create an article for beginning home-made craftsmen, because not every city has craftsmen who sculpt stocks for any brand of air gun at affordable prices. An article with photographs taken during the technical process, which will greatly facilitate understanding of what is happening.
Description of technology.
So, you have decided to make a stock. I offer a description of how to make a stock on MP-512(For IZH technology won't change much). We decide what we want to get at the output, for example, the described bed is licked with Diana-54, to get a paper template, it’s easy to print a photo from the internet, then enlarge it to the required size on a photocopier; having at least some image is easier to model something for yourself. The most common problem is determining the length of the stock. This is done simply: take the rifle so that the trigger falls on the first bend of the index finger, bend your arm at the elbow, and look where the butt plate fits, it will probably not reach the elbow bend (standard plastic is about 15mm shorter for a person of average build and height 175 cm), the required length is so that the butt plate fits tightly into the fold. After determining the shape and size and making a template, we move on to choosing wood.
To begin with, we select a beam with dimensions 45x160x700 without knots and other wood defects, it is better to give preference to beech or oak, this wood is easier to find (if you doubt your abilities and are afraid of ruining a hard-finished workpiece, a prototype can also be made from pine (in my case) IZH61 It’s been in use for a year and a half already), I don’t recommend birch, although it is suitable in terms of strength parameters, it is very difficult to sand.
Well, let’s move on directly to the manufacturing itself: transfer the drawing from the sketch to the board, drill holes with a diameter of 13-15 mm in places of sharp curves, it is better to cut through the smooth areas on the stock either on a circular saw or with a hand-held electric saw, example in photo 1. Be careful where there are kinks, if you are sawing on a circular saw, remember that the disk from below takes 100-150 mm more than from above! After completing this operation, we take a jigsaw in our hands and cut out all the bent lines. If you decide to make the trigger guard wooden, then first cut out inside it, and then outside, example in photo 2.
On the top of the forend we mark a central line, from it to the right and left we draw two parallel lines indicating the mechanism, between them there is 29mm, we mark the length of the mechanism 315mm, the cut for cocking the barrel is 16mm wide (in this sample the forend is long, so using a standard rear sight is impossible (wide) , rearrange it to the optics bar) photo 4. The subsequent operation will require the use of a manual router. Having set the cutter in photo 5, we go through the forearm on the right and left, getting ideal lines (this can also be done with a chisel). Then we mark the places where the CM box will be located (20mm wide and 100mm long), the hole for the trigger, mounting clamps, cocking rod, mark the point under the forend to which the barrel will reach when cocked, using a drill with a drill and a chisel, select a place for the mechanism, It’s easier to cut out the hole for the trunk with a hacksaw
We present a master class on making a stock SV- 98 from ACW. All methods and techniques of work are optimized for the “enthusiast”; only simple “home craftsman” tools will be used: a jigsaw, a hand router, a belt sander, a hand drill, a rasp and a chisel. You will learn: how to cut and assemble a slab under an aircraft plywood bed; how to protect the forend from splitting and “driving”; how to obtain the exact shape of cross sections; how to achieve maximum compliance with the combat prototype.
So, our task is to produce a stock that is precise in geometry for the airsoft model of the SV- rifle 98 with a skeleton butt.
The original uses only high-quality aircraft plywood, glued with SFZh resin, grade BS- 1 . Such plywood is 2 times lighter than ordinary birch (FK, FSF), but is very durable and slightly susceptible to deformation when humidity changes. In its production, only the highest quality birch veneer is used. We choose this plywood.
The drawings in AutoCAD have been received, the sheets can be cut. The thickness of the forend is 50 mm, the thickest plywood is BS- 1 on sale - 20 mm, so you will have to glue a slab of 3 sheets. We make rough markings, adding 1 cm to the length and height, for further precise processing after gluing the slab. To optimize the technological process, we will make 2 stocks, the time is the same as one, taking into account the time for changing tools and fixing in a vice and clamps. We will need 3 blanks of 20 mm per 1 stock. Only 6 parts.
Such plywood, heavily impregnated with resin, is difficult to saw, I recommend using only high-quality Bosh jigsaw consumables, or a band saw at high speeds. There are opinions on the Internet that the plywood stock of the SV- 98 Over time, you will definitely realize that this is a mistake by Izhmash, and it’s correct to make the cradle out of plastic. I cannot agree with this opinion; with proper assembly and high-quality impregnation with special compounds, the lodgement is protected from atmospheric conditions, and the aircraft plywood itself, when gluing, is impregnated with resin so that it can hardly be called a wood material. Plywood of such thickness cannot be broken, and its significant viscosity absorbs the loads well during a shot.
Let me remind history buffs that the ancient Romans used large rectangular shields (scutum) made of plywood (ash with hide glue). Plastic is used in the West in stock making to reduce the cost and speed up production; a molding machine produces 300 spoons per day. Cheap, standardized product. By the way, plastics are also subject to temperature deformation and tolerate cold very poorly. In addition, such a stock is absolutely unsuitable for repair in the field (you can only wrap it with tape), and a plywood stock, even broken in half, can be repaired by a savvy partisan with a penknife and fish glue in one evening. Finally, the plywood is warm, feels good to the shooter, and is lighter than an ABS stock with an aluminum frame.
Nevertheless, in order to reassure those who are afraid of temperature deformations, we will use a special method of gluing the forend “in a box” at 90 degrees. This will also protect the handguard from delamination. To do this, shorten the central part of the plate to the point of the edge of the magazine nest and glue 40 by 20 mm lamellas in opposite layers.
We begin to glue the slab, part 2 to the third. You should use only high-quality wood glues with a water resistance class of at least D 3 . Epoxy, polyurethane, aliphatic resins. In this case, we glue on Titebond 3, a 17 kg press concrete slab. Exposure 12 hours.
So, the plates are glued together. You can start roughly sawing out the shape, cutting off excess thickness with a chisel. Let's start with the butt. First, at the point of transition from the butt to the fore-end, at the point of minimum thickness, we use a router to make an 8 mm groove on both sides, resulting in a butt thickness of 42 mm.
Now we need to choose the thickness of the plate, up to 51 mm for the fore-end and 42 for the butt. This operation is performed in a surface planer and on a band saw, but we will take advantage of the features of the material and make do with one chisel. The thickness of one layer of veneer in aircraft plywood is 1.48 mm, therefore, by cutting 3 layers on each side of the board (the outer layer is sanded, 0.6 mm), we obtain a thickness of the forend of 51 mm.
The method is shown purely for informational purposes. With a forend thickness of 50mm, I usually remove 10mm of thickness (8 layers) from the central part before gluing the plate. For the time being, we also remove 3 layers on the butt so that a “step” does not form. interferes with sawing with a jigsaw. A sharp chisel at the right angle cuts normally. We grind with a 80 grit blade.
We also grind the upper plane for precise marking with a square and reference it to the barrel line in the future.
Now you can cut out the rough contour with a tolerance of 4 mm for further processing with a rasp. Next, cut out the holes for the fingers using a feather drill at high speed.
Now we mill the grooves on the fore-end using a parallel stop and a slotted semicircular cutter f15, depth 6 mm. The rip fence ensures the same distance from the barrel on both sides of the 2 spoons. This cheap household router comes complete with a rip fence and a copy ring; you can also make a rip fence yourself by taking an M rod 8 . We mark only the beginning and end of the groove.
Also, using the same cutter, we cut out a valley to fit a 24 mm barrel, i.e. +2 mm in width to what is already there (the slot on the central part of the plate is 20 mm), to the level of the beginning of the handle (the rear cut of the receiver), we do not change the depth, 6 mm should come exactly to this point.
Now we are preparing to cut out the skeletal butt, using a straight groove cutter we cut a 12 mm groove on both sides in the line of the butt hole, we also remove the thickness at the transition of the handle to the butt. The upper beam of the butt, on the left side, goes to zero with a rounding towards the top. This kind of milling can be done by screwing the edge of the router sole through the technical hole to the support block and moving the cutter in a circle. We will attach the sole to the upper edge of the cheek pad; its thickness will be 40 mm, so the channel of the screw will be cut off.
We cut the edges of the handle at 45 degrees, now you can try the spoon on your hand. Log. Well, it’s not our place to criticize the ergonomic solutions of Izhmash, our task is to comply with the combat prototype. It's time to make a hole in the butt. We start by drilling the corners of the hole with a feather drill, then cut it out with a jigsaw. We subtract 3 mm from the net dimensions of the hole for further finishing with a rasp, because any jigsaw has some cutting angle. The butt has a special belt fastening element, a 12 mm stand. It is correct to make it by milling according to a template with a copy sleeve (many household routers have it in their kits), or an overrunning cutter, but I will do it with free milling for speed. Semi-circular slot cutter.
Now that the rough sawing and milling of the butt have been completed, we will no longer need the supporting layers (on which the tool rested during the work process), we can cut them with a chisel until we obtain the correct thickness of the butt - 40, 37, 24. For now, we will roughly cut the places of smooth descents into 3 steps. We will also correct it a little with a jigsaw in a vertical position.
So, the last stage of rough work lies ahead; it is necessary to carefully grind the lower surface of the forearm with a blade, and ensure an angle of 90 degrees to the side surfaces. We will also remove excess material to the correct height of the forend. Careful sanding is necessary at this stage because... the surface will serve as a support for the bearing of the molding concave cutter. After grinding, we overtake the forends with a molding concave cutter, removing a semicircular chamfer. We slightly correct the shape of the windows for the fingers with a groove cutter.
Clean work. Let's start finishing with a rasp. This is the most labor-intensive stage of work, but it is not very difficult if you take into account two rules: do not sharpen “towards” the plywood layers (it may chip) and, when leveling, sharpen in the direction of 45 degrees to the layers, with a small angle.
First we will process the butt so that we can cut off the cheek pad. The photo of the original shows that on the right side of the butt there is a pattern of 9 semi-lunar stripes, dark and light. What does it mean? Such stripes are obtained by cutting layers of plywood at a small angle; darker ones are perpendicular to the direction of light. If we achieve the same pattern on the product, then the geometry of the butt is made perfectly, and without any drawings. (But, of course, only if we use a layered material, and exactly the same as in the original.) We start from the highest point on the edge of the butt, achieve the correct semicircle, always keeping the rasp at the same angle. The layer stripes “creep” into the correct position. Add 1 mm to the size of the pattern stripes for further sanding.
This method of “fishing in layers” is very useful for the “enthusiast”. When assembling the GOL-sniper stock (), it was he who helped give the fore-end the correct narrowing at the top and end by 2 mm, which is very difficult to notice in the drawings and take into account in the development. 
Finally, the handle. Here it is better to navigate “by hand”, whether it lies or does not lie. You can wear a glove if the fighter uses one. In the recesses we use a drill bit. This is a budget-friendly, neat method, and it is correct to use sloping chisels and high-quality cranberries (Pfeil, Kirschen, 1.5 thousand rubles each), but an inexperienced master with a chisel may go too deep. Therefore, rasp. It will take a whole day to process one stock.
Long grinding ahead P 80 P 120 P 200 , manually. I use a strip of belt sander for rough sanding. It is convenient to sand rounded surfaces by stretching the tape with two fingers. Fine sanding using 120 paper, folded into three.
Let's distract ourselves with the cheek pad. Its shape is simple, the only thing is that you need to chop off the excess thickness with a chisel, to the pure thickness of the butt. The photo suggests (using the “layers” method) that the cheek pad narrows towards the front and up. Let's do it with a grinder, round the edges with a rasp, and you can start installing the bushings of the adjusting screws using Poxipol or other quick-setting epoxy adhesive (for example, “bison” in a syringe). Bushings will be M 8 (outer diameter 10), drill with a 10.5 mm drill so that there is space for glue.
In this case, steel ceiling anchors are used, it is necessary to cut 3 mm from the expanding edge and remove the pin so that the cheek pad adjustment screw can pass through the bushings if the cheek pad is set to the minimum height. We will cut out the insert for the cheek pad from plexiglass and sand it for painting. The slots on the insert allow you to quickly slide it into place.
Now you can cut a hole in the belt mounting post and the slots for the cheekpiece screws. Everything is usual here, we drill 10.5 mm, cut it with a jigsaw. The cheek pad bushings should fit and move freely in the grooves, allowing the cheek pad to be adjusted from right to left.
Before finishing sanding, it is necessary to glue in the bushings for screwing on the carrying handle, bipod and front swivel. For the “enthusiast” I would recommend an indispensable household item for high-quality drilling – the “Caliber” drill guide. It is cheap, but very convenient - not only for small jobs, but, say, it will help when adding holes for confirmation in a chipboard cabinet, and when drilling walls made of light materials with a spear, and when installing drywall.
We will apply an anti-slip texture to the handle - according to Izhmash, these are dots in a simple edging. The edging can be cut with a joint knife, and the dots can be filled with the head of a finishing nail driven into a stick; there are no difficulties here. I'll use a Dremel with wood burrs. Izhmash does the same; blackening the handle is necessary to hide the scorch marks from the burr. Over this texture, you can subsequently apply a comfortable rubber band made of elastomer.
After preparing the seats, the stock was varnished in 3 layers with Italian varnish Sayerlack EZ 8050 .
So, I want a new bed for Murka . For what? My native one is short, the downward movement of the butt plate is small, the handle is thin and short, I would like a cheek piece under the optics. And I really want a pistol grip, because my hand gets tired when shooting. It's decided! I buy myself a kimono, that is, I make a new bed. After sitting through the evening with a pencil and paper, I realized that I’m not much of a designer, an artist even worse, so to hell with aesthetics, whatever happens.Step one. One is selected from a bunch of sketches
2.
A drawing was made using tabular calculations 
life-size on a piece of wallpaper in accordance with the sketch
3.
Foam model made 
4. Testing PVA glue (gluing pieces of plywood and tearing after a day's exposure)
5. Buying another PVA. Testing. Approval (tear in wood, not in glue joint)
6.
Transferring the drawing to plywood, taking into account technological protrusions for subsequent screeding during gluing. Sawing with an electric jigsaw 
External and internal blanks differ in the presence or absence of a recess for iron. 
7.
Drilling technological holes and pre-assembly with two bolts. Drilling the remaining technological holes. Control assembly. 
Disassembly and sanding of bonded surfaces
8.
Gluing. We apply glue to one part, place the next one on it and press it with a pressing-rotational motion. Repeat with the remaining parts. Has the package come apart? Not scary. A couple of bolts will act as guides and align the parts. Install and tighten the remaining bolts, clamps and other compressive devices 
When using the Kral 002 rifle with a plastic stock, the stock burst in the area of the front mounting screws. I have been looking towards stocks with a pistol grip for a long time. It was decided to make a new box. When selecting the material and taking into account the fact that I have practically no tools for woodworking, I decided to make it from plywood. In the cutting I found SK brand plywood and made it from it. I decided to describe the development and manufacturing process here. Next, stock up on popcorn and read step by step:
Preliminary stage 1- I need to figure out how I would like to see the new bed. First, we sort through the images of a bunch of lies. I personally realized that I wanted something with a pistol grip that looked similar to Varya 100. I got it, opened Photoshop and started drawing.
If anyone didn’t recognize it - Kral upper
Let's get started Stage 2 - preparation of a sketch of the layout and patterns.
In Photoshop we make a contrasting copy of the outline of our future rifle
We set a Corelov tracer on it, while using the minimum number of nodes at which the picture is traced quite accurately and we get a sketch in curves.
We remove unnecessary nodes, by operations with subtraction/addition of objects we get an object consisting of only one object (initially also a window in the butt, for example, this is an additional object lying on top of the black butt), we get a relatively polished object. We begin to draw the stock, separating it with color (it is useful to save the sketch of the iron separately and leave it as a background for clarity of the development of the stock).
Well, this already looks like something
Stage 3 - take the dimensions of the iron insert.
As a rather lazy person, I took a photograph of the wooden stock for Kral and drew the dimensions for the top view on the photograph, and on it I noted the depths of the samples - marked with squares (fortunately, I don’t have samples with curly complex profiles).
Stage 4 - development of patterns.
For convenience, I put a cheat sheet with dimensions in Corel along with the sketch of our bed. We transfer the 0 coordinate point to the upper leftmost point of contact of the iron with the bed (see the figure, the inset in the photo was measured relative to this point). Then we lay out the guides according to our sizes (the coordinates will now help us). We use rectangles with reference dimensions to mark the comfortable thickness of the handle and the distance to the trigger (hereinafter SC) (they are transparent in the photo).
Next we draw the samples, for example in the photo above there is a cutout for the lever. Based on the width of the samples, we can plan the thickness of the layers of the bed. In my case, the central recess for the lever at the narrowest point is 18mm. recess for the lever roller - 5mm. From here I plan the layout in layers, in relation to the standard thicknesses of plywood sheets - central 18mm, 2 sheets of 6mm (there will be a cut there for cutting under the roller) and 2 sheets of 6mm along the edges. Total 5 layers 6+6+18+6+6 = 42mm. It should fit well in the hand, and it should also be enough for the butt (the thickness of the butt plate remaining from the strictly stock is just 42mm). Let's cut further
Using the guides, we draw what should be solid in the middle layer, then we draw a cutout for the support rollers of the cocking lever and in the end we get patterns for the layers, at the same time we can roughly estimate the costs of cutting
We print this disgrace on a 1:1 scale from Corel with a layout of several A4, glue it, cut it out, put the iron on top and admire it
After admiring it we move on to stage 5 - modeling Anyone who wants to immediately risk spoiling the plywood can then skip a certain amount of bookof
To begin with, we make a stock with a handle from katon or thick paper. We glue an improvised SC to it, as it should be. Let's apply ourselves. After that, I personally realized that I don’t like Varin’s tilt of the handle. I immediately added the insert and made the angle of inclination from the normal a little smaller. I tried it on and liked it. At the same time, I decided to make the lower part of the fore-end lower, for shooting while standing.
I adjusted the patterns according to my amendments. For convenience, everything is in one picture, only cropped after printing in 3 copies along different contours.
There is a transparent rectangle on the left for easy alignment on A4 sheets as I wanted, Corel without it tries to lay out the drawing a little differently.
We transfer our patterns to thicker cardboard. I left allowances when cutting. You can make 2 of each layer (this is not counting the fact that we have the outermost layers on both sides of the rifle, i.e. for them 4). Between 2 sheets of layer to create the required volume, we glue stacks of cardboard scraps until the required thickness is achieved (we glue the stack to only one pattern so that the second remains pristine). You can get by with one part of each layer - adding the insert on the desired side. We collect the sandwich into a pile. To begin with, I tied it all together with laces or fastened it with clamps. Now we can apply the iron and see the flaws. If necessary, we tie the iron with laces (usually you don’t want to drop it).
Checking how the IC is located
The most important thing is that we can finally take a more or less realistic approach to the future stock!!! Hurray!!! If something is wrong, we trim the cardboard, removing allowances.
After this we can move on to stage 7 - plywood
Based on those very pristine patterns, as if using a template, we transfer the contours of the pattern onto the plywood. We remember that it has two sides - the face and the back. In addition, thin plywood (I have 6mm) comes with a bend in the sheet. I cut it so that after gluing all the layers, the two outermost 6mm layers lay face outward, while my plywood layers folded into a convex lens. Then it will crimp when gluing. We cut out and drill out all technological cavities, openings, etc. which will be inaccessible or inaccessible later, after gluing.
Stage 8 - sawing I'm not describing
I'll move on right away to stage 9 - gluing. To begin with, it is useful to compress all layers with clamps, align them correctly and place marks on the side surfaces for quick alignment when gluing. Be sure to put something under the clamps (thin plywood, thick cardboard) so that there are no dents on the surface.
First I glued the central layer and two inner ones. I glued it with epoxy (it is advisable to check it first). Don't forget to match the marks. Then, after polymerization, the remaining 2. After polymerization, we get a kind of bar for further processing. When gluing, we use the maximum clamps available from ourselves, our friends and neighbors. We pay special attention to the handle, butt and fore-end in thin places.
After gluing the inner layers, I wrapped a round mandrel of a suitable diameter with coarse sandpaper and pre-seated the iron. The layer thickness of 6+18+6 allows this to be done. Then we rub it in with fine sandpaper, in decreasing order, wrapped on our mandrel. At the same time, you can see how the support rollers are placed on the shelves. My iron was initially turned in the stock and I corrected this defect by seating it in a new stock. Therefore, such control was not superfluous.
We can measure the iron along the way
Stage 9 - processing. Where you need to remove a lot, you can go along the contour with a jigsaw. Where there is a lot of volume, I used, where possible, a small plane. Also for processing I used a set of Polish-Chinese files/rasps of unknown purpose. It’s incomprehensible - because they don’t reach normal rasps. For faster processing, I also used large parquet flooring with large sandpaper stuffed onto it on a fabric basis. Working like a rasp with a large surface, she managed to process everything quite quickly.
After pre-processing we get something like this
Actually, I already drilled holes for the iron mounting screws in the stock.
Now we apply ourselves, try, remove the unnecessary, bring it to perfection. I even tried to shoot along the way
It is convenient to treat round and complexly shaped areas with cloth-based sandpaper placed on round wooden mandrels.
Then we sand in descending grain order to the final surface condition. At the finish, from time to time we lift the pile by wiping it with a damp cloth until it disappears.
Next Stage 10 - painting/processing I lower it. There are many opinions here - it's up to you to choose.
I got it like this: 
This is what it looks like assembled in real life
In principle, the white bracket matches the white clip, but later I’ll try to make it black.
The center of gravity of Kral + Taska 6-24x50AOE is 16 cm forward from the SK.
It fits very comfortably in my hand, I’m glad that I came up with the idea at the last moment before painting to make horizontal grooves for the index and thumb - it feels especially comfortable in the palm of my hand. When I take it, I don’t even think about how to take it so that it’s comfortable - it’s immediately convenient, and you don’t even notice it.
The difference between the right and left sides is minimal, but it is there. I tried to make it so that both right-handed and left-handed people could shoot, but I’m still right-handed, and my comfort is more important. This also applies to the distance from the back of the pistol grip to the gun, the angle of the grip, the length of the butt, the length of the handle and the size of the recess for the palm.
So make a bed for your own hand - you will not regret the time spent and the labor invested.
Coated with Belinka toplasur #17 composition: alkyd resins, special pigments that absorb ultraviolet radiation, organic solvents and additives for thixotropy, waxes. Contains 2-Butanone oxime and cobalt salt of fatty acids. Here is another description: belinka toplasur long-term protection of wood Belinka Toplasur is a thick-layer azure coating. Creates a thick, compact coating on the surface that provides a high degree of protection for wood products used in extreme weather conditions. Contains UV filters. Belinka Toplasur does not contain biocides, which allows it to be widely used in residential areas. Belinka Toplasur gives the wood mechanical stability, which is especially important when painting hardwood joinery. Belinka Toplasur can be used to protect the surface parts of marine vehicles. Recommended for the protection of wood products used in coastal and mountainous regions. It gives the surface a silky gloss and does not hide the natural grain of the wood. Surfaces in damp rooms and outdoors should be primed with Belinka Base impregnating composition before painting Belinka Toplasur. Composition Suspension of UV filters and absorbing substances, light- and weather-resistant pigments, water-repellent waxes in a solution of alkyd resins in a mixture of organic solvents. Application method: Brush, roller, spray, 2 layers (pre-prime surfaces in damp rooms and outdoors with Belinka Base). Consumption For two-layer coating 1 liter. /8-10 m2 (depending on the type and quality of wood, cleanliness of surface treatment and application method).
In light of the annual use of this stock, I would like to add that it is better to paint it with acrylic or epoxy-acrylic paint - it is more resistant to abrasion. It is better to immediately glue metal washers into the holes of the iron fastening screws so that the plywood does not slip from tightening to tightening.
Good luck to you in this rather dusty but exciting business.
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